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Ensemble
A) Dress of deep blue and orange silk with multi-colored embroidered flowers and squares. Full-length deep blue silk dress with rounded neckline which is edged in gold and with band of square embroidered blocks of color, red, green, blue, white, extending down front in "keyhole". Square "bib" on front and back of orange silk, with border of embroidered flowers of red, blue, and white, and leaves of yellow, with gold embroidered vines and outlining. 3/4 or longer sleeves, with orange panels on upper arms to elbows, with embroidery matching bib. Cuffs with embroidered squares matching neckline. Dress has added gores at sides of orange silk which create a slight A-line. Lower part of dress embroidered with: tall vertical obelisk forms in gold with squares of red, blue, white, green, and "foliate forms" embroidery; Tall bands of large embroidered flower heads and leaves matching bib, but enlarged; Flowers and vines in red, white, yellow, green, blue, etc. Back of dress with same decoration as front, bib is shorter. Vertical closure at neckline, with single hook-and-loop at neckline. Unlined. Sewn-in shoulder pads covered with matching orange silk. b ) Headpiece c ) Necklace - bronze alloy with carnelian stones - Tubular with pendants d ) Necklace - bronze alloy with carnelian stones - Rectangular plaque with pendants
Festival ensemble
Miao People, Thailand/Laos, Festival Outfit A) Jacket. Jacket of black cotton, waist length, with standing collar. Front opening with no closure, worn with sides overlapping and forming "V" neckline. Standing collar faced with machine-embroidered ribbon of black ground with purple-ish flower blossoms with yellow centers, blue vines, and green leaves. This band continues along edge of opening to about 9 1/4" above hem. From that point to hem on each side of opening a different band is used, of purple and green foliate forms on black, with outer border of diagonal blue stripes and silver ovals on black ground with silver edges. A second machine-woven band of ribbon is applied as an outer border along the collar/upper opening band, with green, pink, and white stripes and bands of green and white trees(?) and a band of alternating green/yellow/white butterflies and same color flowers(?), all on a reddish ground. Long black sleeves have central wide band of orange satin with machine-embroidered multicolored sea dragons. Black fabric added after panels to form lower sections of sleeves. Garment is lined in black fabric, the collar and front opening backed with pink/purple fabric. Garment has a size tag sewn inside at back collar: "XXL". Not an American size. B) Skirt. Wrap style skirt with tiny pleats. Skirt formed of horizontal bands of fabrics sewn together, some embellished. From top: Plain black cotton(?) waistband ca. 3 1/4" wide with long black ties; White cotton(?) band ca. 1 1/2" wide, which begins pleating that continues down length of skirt; Pale blue/gray section ca. 14" long which has printed bands of dark blue linear designs: zig-zags, scrolls, lines, etc., the lines having had thin strips of fabric appliqued over them, in green, orange, and purple over the bulk of the skirt; Red cotton(?) band 1 1/2" wide …
Fan
Folding-style fan with molded plastic sticks and guards and printed paper leaf. "U" shaped bail ring at bottom. Leaf is printed on one side: "Neiman Marcus - Fashion Exposition / Sept 1950 / Dallas _ Texas".
Ensemble
Ensemble of navy wool lined in navy blue silk satin.
Evening dress
Evening dress of silk chiffon layered skirt with a strapless bodice of floral embroidered olive green tulle; fitted bodice of fine olive tulle is embroidered of flowers and vines of green and violet beads and threads; long skirt consists of layered triangular sections of pink, olive, and pale orange silk chiffon with uneven hemline; waistline is dipped at center-front and center-back; center-back zip closure. Designer's label: "Vicky Tiel / Couture" Retailer's label: "Bergdorf Goodman" Two maker's labels
Dress
Coat dress of black wool with double satin stripe gabardine.
Ensemble
a) Shirt jacket of navy cotton in an open-weave mesh knit. Shirt collar. Center front button closure with 5 circular, navy plastic buttons with vertical, tailored buttonholes. Two flap pockets at bust with lapels and single, matching button closure. Long sleeves. Front vest is lined in dark blue cotton. Interior back waistline has a cord to cinch from within. Designer's label at center back neckline: "A-K-R-I-S-" Sizes on reverse of designer's label: "US 8 F 40 D 38" Content/care label at inside left seam. b) Pencil skirt of navy wool knit with 1 ¼” waistband and 2 darts at front left and right. Two darts at back. Center back zip closure. Fully lined in blue satin. 21” length.
Dress
Dress of brown jersey wool with round neckline and long raglan sleeves.
Jacket
Jacket of black wavy, puckered, ribbed satin with notched collar and large, single button closure; long sleeves with single button closure at wrists; 2 faux slit pockets at hips; decorative attached belt at back of self-fabric; fully lined in black satin trimmed in black faille; fabric content: polyester, nylon, spandex, rayon.
Pants Suit
Pantsuit of dark green wool.
Ball gown
Ballgown of beaded light blue silk satin. A) Dress: sleeveless, princess-line, flared, full-length evening gown with moderate square neckline. Overlay bodice detail of matching aqua satin. The overbodice has a slightly empire line with side panels extending over the hips. The overbodice is intricately pieced and embellished with cutwork details and beading. The cutwork treatment extends across the wide shoulder straps, down the bodice front and back and then completely covers the side panels. The beading incorporates clear rhinestones with square pillow-shaped studs in varying shades of aqua and turquoise. The beading was based on the tile work incorporated in the Southland Center, Dallas, Texas. The full, flared skirt is tacked into four wide inverted knife pleats down the front and it is asymmetrically pleated across the back. Center back zipper closure to hipline with a single hook&loop at midback neckline. Placket closure secured with one snap and one hook&eye. The skirt is lined with heavy white pellon and has a horsehair reinforced hem. Label located over inside front bustline. B) Petticoat: full-length, gored, ten panel petticoat of iridescent turquoise/aqua silk satin. Narrow waistband with center back placket opening secured with two hook&eyes. Horsehair reinforced hem.
Dress
Evening dress of turquoise blue chiffon beaded completely in vertical rows of matching blue bugle beads.
Cocktail dress
Dress ensemble consisting of red and black plaid with white stripe. A) Dress of matching plaid chiffon. Street length; short raglan sleeves with underarm gussets. Peter Pan collar. Skirt is formed of three layers of gored chiffon with outer layer of plaid and two under layers of red chiffon. Center back zipper from skirt through interior bodice; chiffon over blouse has closure of eight circular black buttons with tailored buttonholes and is supplemented with hook & loop at neckline and snap and hook & eye at waistline. Red grosgrain ribbon petersham with hook & eye. Inner bodice is covered in red chiffon, boned and lined in red synthetic; skirt is lined in red silk crepe. Interior sleeve hems and neckline are lined in female snap ends, possibly indicating missing pieces to ensemble. Designer's label at left side seam of bodice: "Galanos" Retailer's label at center back seam of skirt: "Neiman-Marcus" B) Cape of matching wool plaid. Elbow length with wide cape collar. Closure of two black plastic buttons on collar joined by contour-shaped placket with bound buttonholes; snap and hook & eye on neckline of cape supplement the button closure. Faux flap pockets with matching black button and bound buttonhole. Designer's label at right side seam: "Galanos" Retailer's label at center back neckline: "Neiman-Marcus" C) Contour belt of black leather with rectangular self-covered buckle. Stamped on back: "Galanos / Originals / Beverly Hills"
Dress
Dress of black silk matelassé. A) Fitted bodice of black silk matelassé with vestee of cream silk with lace appliqué trimmed in black and ivory braid in an Art Nouveau motif. High standing collar of lace appliqué matching vestee. Black velvet revers and trim at collar. Long sleeves with rolled back cuffs. Hook & eye closure at left of vestee. Vestee is lined in white polished cotton. Bodice is boned and lined in black polished cotton with center front hook & eye closure; 24" waist. B) Bustle-back skirt with slight train. Center back hook & eye closure. Unlined.
Dress
Dress of navy wool jersey knit. Sleeveless; knee length. Princess line. Brown and navy set in waist/belt with oval shaped placket trimmed with 2 gold and mauve buttons at center front. Center back closure of four matching buttons to waist and zipper below waist. Lined in navy. Designer' label: "Burke-Amey / New York"
Evening dress
Evening dress of black polyester knit. Full length with long split at center front seam; narrow silhouette. Halter style bodice of floral black lace embellished with black sequins and beads over white satin. Black knit gathers around waist with off-white satin bow at center front. Center back zipper closure with hook & eyes. Bodice lined in white acetate and skirt has slip of black acetate. Designer's label at back left shoulder: "Victor Costa" Union label beneath designer label. Care label at right side seam.
Dress
Evening dress of fuchsia silk satin with bow embellishments on short, off-shoulder sleeves. Sleeves are bell-shaped and have cartridge pleats at upper portion. Strapless bodice is fitted; princess seams. Skirt is gathered at drop waist at hips and around back; falls just below knees. Center-back zipper closure with hook and eye. Fully lined in fuchsia synthetic with attached net underskirt. Designer's label at center back neckline: "Victor Costa" Union label at bottom of designer's label: "Crafted with Pride / in U.S.A." Fabric/care/size label at inside left seam.
Dress
Gown of violet purple jersey.
Cocktail dress
Evening dress of yellow and turquoise floral printed lace with iridescent yellow sequins and yellow and turquoise seed beads. Strapless, sheath-style. Knee length. Left side zipper closure. Lined in bright yellow synthetic; boned bodice. Designer's label at center back: "Victor Costa" Style number "9183" tag under designer label.
Day Dress
Day dress and underskirt of olive green shantung silk . a) Shirt waist style dress of olive green shantung silk. Knee-length. Round neckline; princess seams; gathered natural waist. Buttons down center front of bodice with a snap at the neckline; covered buttons with bound buttonholes. Left side seam zipper closure from underarm to upper thigh; underarm gussets. Two slit double welt pockets on left and right; 3/4 length sleeves. Attached self tie belt at center back waist. Unlined; 26" waist. Designer's label at inside right: "EISA" b) Unattached straight underskirt. Upper panel of white silk; lower panel of olive green shantung silk. Left side zipper with a hook and eye; folded hem. Unlined.
Afternoon Dress
Afternoon ensemble of heavy black silk faille and lace. A) Bodice. Fitted; 3/4 length sleeves are split to show ice blue faille insets covered in black lace and are piped and scalloped with black embroidery and braid medallions. The lace on the sleeve insets extends from the elbow to the wrist with gathers in the lace at the back of the wrist. High standing collars with the front of the collar covered in matching blue faille covered in black lace; collar has hook & eye closure. Center front opening of 16 self-covered buttons and barred buttonholes. Center front opening is scalloped and piped to match sleeves and is trimmed with matching embroidered medallions. Boned with white moire silk grosgrain petersham which secures with two hook & eyes. Center back of petersham has three irregular pentagonal shaped tabs of black faille with barred buttonholes for securing bodice to skirt. B) Skirt. Full skirt is asymmetrical with blue faille panels inserted at front right side of skirt and two narrow inserts on left side. Left side inserts are partly covered by black faille pleating which forms folds at the left side waist. Front inserted panel is covered in black lace in floral motifs with diagonal striping. Hemline of front inserted panel is scalloped and piped in black faille with matching black embroidered medallions. Right side of skirt has an inserted panel of matching black faille that is piped and scalloped to match the bodice and is trimmed with matching embroidered medallions. Underskirt of black faille has a box pleated ruffle of self around the hemline. Center back hook & eye closure with three mother-of-pearl button on black grosgrain waistband for securing skirt to bodice. All blue insert faille panels have faded to white.
Skirt suit
Skirt suit of floral brocade fabric. Fabric has light tan ground with trellis window pane design of brocaded green vines with pink flowers. Within the squares of the trellis are brocaded sprays of flowers.
Dress
Day dress ensemble: A) Bodice of ivory crinkled cotton gauze with a tiny floral print in vertical stripes and waves. High standing band collar with lace yoke and matching cotton ruffle around shoulders; trimmed with two rows of thin dark brown ribbon. Long sleeves are gathered in armhole and are completely covered in pin tucks which open and flare out at wrists; wrists trimmed in two narrow rows of dark brown velvet ribbon. Button closure at left side shoulder and under armseye; string tie of self at waist. Unlined. B) Skirt of matching fabric in full, A-line silhouette. Slightly trained with two rows of self ruffle at hem. Center back opening. Unlined.
Dress
A) Fitted bodice of black silk covered in black silk netting. Intricate black jet beading and black sequin design around high standing collar and yoke. Long sleeves with matching net ruffle cuffs trimmed with three rows of black silk ribbon; black Alençon lace trim at wrist above ruffled cuff. Bodice front is loosely fitted and trimmed with three vertical rows of black silk ribbon at each side; back of bodice is trimmed with two vertical rows of black silk ribbon at each side. Center back hook & eye closure. Outer bodice is boned and has brown polished cotton lining; inner bodice of brown polished cotton. B) Skirt of black silk netting. Full length. Dress is trimmed two vertical rows of gathered black silk ribbon from waist to ruffle and has five Alençon black lace appliques on front. Twelve-inch ruffle at hemline is trimmed with four rows of black silk ribbon and has rows of gathered matching ribbon at top of ruffle and along bottom of hem. Center back opening with hook & eye on waistband.
Mother Hubbard Dress
Dress in Mother Hubbard style of cotton muslin in printed paisley pattern in shades of pink.
Coat
Coat of cream colored broadtail. Hip- to 7/8-length. Long sleeves with wide cuffs trimmed in brown mink. Detachable collar of brown mink with 4 bands of brown mink, two per side, which snap at collar (3 snaps) and hang down at front. Center front closure, which fastens with double-strand ribbon belt from interior at right to loop on left edge of coat. Fully lined in cream silk, with applied silk monogram quilted to lining: "RYL". Retailer's label at inside back collar: "Bergdorf / Goodman / Fifth Avenue / at 58th Street"
Dress
Cocktail dress of black crepe: Sleeveless with 1" straps; princess seams in front and back; natural waist; sheath; skirt is trimmed with 3 rows of 6" black fox fur; bodice is lined with black crepe, skirt is lined in black polyester; low back; bust seems to be lined with what feels like styrofoam in bra "cups" so the dress can be worn braless for its low back; CB zipper closure with a hook and eye. 30 waist. Designer's label at back to right of zipper: "Estevez"
Infant's dress
Infant's dress and slip set of white cotton batiste. A) Gown is gathered at V-shaped yoke with 8 vertical bands of broderie anglaise and 7 strips of narrow lace. Long sleeves have cuffs trimmed with matching broderie anglaise and hem trimmed with netted lace; three rows of pin tucks at bend of elbows. High rounded neckline with matching broderie anglaise. Back of yoke is trimmed with five rows of vertical pin tucks and matching broderie anglaise. Hemline has 1" band of broderie anglaise in fleur-de-lis pattern between three rows of pin tucks. Ruffle at hemline has band of feather stitched embroidery at seam with two rows of drawn work and floral and fleur-de-lis embroidery with scalloped hem. Center back closure of three mother-of-pearl buttons. B) Slip. Rounded neckline; sleeveless. Lace trim at neckline and armseye. Full gathered skirt attached to bodice with band of feather stitched embroidery . Hemline and ruffle of slip is trimmed to match gown. Center back closure of two mother-of-pearl buttons.
Dress
Day dress of navy, brown, and green polyester silk crepe. Street length. Full, set-in sleeves with 1-1/2" navy cuffs and spherical self-covered button with barred buttonhole. V-shaped neckline with attached sash at neckline. Inverted pleats throughout body of dress which open at dropped waist to form the pleated skirt. Center front zipper closure with hook & eye. Unlined; shoulder pads. Designer's label at right side seam: "Galanos" Retailer's label at right side seam: "Neiman-Marcus"
Dress
Cocktail dress of fuchsia pink silk chiffon. Knee-length, princess-line sheath with moderate scooped neckline and short sleeves. The set-in sleeves are attached to a U-shaped armseye opening set below a dropped shoulder line. The short sleeves are horizontally pleated in five tiers with each pleat slightly wider than the one above it. Two pleats fall from off the left front neckline to mid-thigh. Asymmetrical waistband curving up over the left hip. Chiffon overskirt falling from the waistband. The overskirt has an asymmetrical hem that curves upward around the left side. The overskirt's hem is embellished with four wide horizontal pleats. The bodice pleat detail becomes a separate pleated panel as it falls from the waistband to the overskirt's hem. It is caught up into the hem. Knee-length underskirt of fuchsia silk chiffon. Center back zipper bodice closure from the neck to the hip line with a single hook&eye at the neckline. Piece lined in fuchsia pink silk satin. Right side seam slit in underskirt about 6 inches. Label located inside center back beside the zipper. The zipper is faced with fuchsia pink chiffon. Designer label left of zipper: "By / Lilli Wolff / Dallas, Texas"
Dress
First Communion dress of off-white rayon blend. Mid-length; short sleeves. Bands of cotton crocheted lace around sleeve hem and 8 1/2" above skirt hem. Round collar has square matching crochet lace inset below. Belt of self fabric is attached at sides of waist and closes with self-covered rings. Princess seams. Center back zipper closure. Unlined.
Dressing gown
Dressing gown of brown cotton with paisley print in warm reds, teal, dark pinks, golden yellow and blue grey. Full length, loose fit with long sleeves. Fold-over collar, opening and cuffs are trimmed with a different fabric band of bone colored stripe surrounded by darker brown with rows of floral bouquets. Open front is stitched closed from waist down. Gown is full; skirt is meticulously pleated into back waistline which ends at sides. Tie of black ribbon ties around waist at inside. Bodice back is lined in tan mercerized cotton.
Dress
Maxi dress of ivory jersey knit. Long sleeves with zippered wrists. Scooped neckline. Bodice is accented with orange and red geometric insets at neckline and waist. Side slit pockets. Center back zipper. Lined in ivory polyester. Designer's label at base of zipper: "Ronald Amey / New York" Cleaning instructions tag with designer label.
Dress
Dress of brown silk with woven horizontal stripes consisting of red borders, brown bands, and mottled bands.
Child's apron
Child's apron of tan calico cotton in floral print. A-line style. Rounded neckline; long sleeves. Center back closure of five buttons. Unlined.
Dress
Evening gown of black polyester velvet and satin. Heart shaped sweetheart velvet bodice with beaded leaf pattern applique embellishing surface. Long puffed satin sleeves with appliques at shoulders and black bugle bead and braid trimmed cuffs; zipper closure. V-shaped waistline has 4 long beaded tassels that tie at center front. Full length, gathered satin skirt with black net underskirt. Designer's label at back right shoulder: "Victor Costa" Care and content/size tags under designer label.
Maternity dress
Maternity dress of black tweed with wide scoop neckline, empire waist and mid-length skirt; short, wide sleeves are gathered into hem underneath sleeve; 1 inch band at empire waist with attached belt at sides that wraps around back with a button closure; mid-length skirt with crescent pockets at sides and box pleat at center-front with buttons of self-fabric down front; zip-back closure; unlined. Designer Label: Page Boy / Dallas
Evening suit
Black and red evening suit. A) Jacket of acetate/cotton/viscose blend in bands of black faille and black and red brocade in floral pattern. Hip length; fitted with princess seams and long, fitted sleeves. Square cut collarless neckline. Center front closure of six round buttons covered in black cord. Lined in black synthetic; shoulder pads. Designer's label at center back neckline: "Victor Costa / Duplicate / Style 2801 F / Date Fall I 94 / Operator" Fiber content tag at left side seam. B) Skirt. Fitted at hips and flared below; knee length. Constructed of three layers of polyester: top layer black chiffon, middle layer red chiffon, and bottom layer red acetate. Center back zipper closure with hook & eye.
Dinner dress
Dinner dress of and green chiffon and net, and black crepe. Sleeveless bodice of green chiffon with wide low scoop neckline. Net overlay on bodice is heavily encrusted with beads and rhinestones. Ankle length narrow black crepe skirt attached at hip line. Harem overskirt of green chiffon has vertical folds/pleats, is open at front, and is lined in black crepe matching skirt. Overskirt can be turned up to form a cape, with armholes, and a single button closure at front throat. Designer's label: "Veneziani / Milano / Made in YTRU"
Child's dress
Child's dress in off-white cotton. Short, double-layered ruffled sleeves of broderie anglaise. High, gathered waist. Square neckline with eyelet bodice trimmed in lace. Center back opening of three round buttons.
Dress
Day ensemble of organza in print of yellow, gold and white butterflies with black dots on black background.
Child's dress
Child's sailor dress of white jacquard cotton. Long sleeves with broderie anglaise lace at hem. Sailor collar with V-shaped yoke insert which wraps around left shoulder; standing neckline of lace matching sleeve hem and insert on sailor collar. Center front placket has left side opening with button closure (all buttons missing). Belt loops at sides (belt missing). Unlined.
Dress
Dress of aqua and gold metallic brocade; full-length; overskirt draped to create fullness over hips and ending in a small train in back. No designer's label. Attribution based on original N-M tag sewn into inner skirt.
Maternity dress
Maternity or laying-in gown of teal cotton with ribbon work embroidery on center front of dress and continuing along bottom front hemline. Embroidery of green and brown stems with leaves, and ribbon work daisies and flowers with off-white petals. Mandarin collar and concealed button and snap closure at center front bodice. Two panels at right and left yoke with matching embroidery are unattached at bottom and conceal pleats that are along the collar line. Long, fitted sleeves with 1" vent at wrists and matching embroidery at sleeve ends. A-line silhouette and full-length with pleats at back waist. Hemline is dipped at back and trimmed in a box pleated dark teal, ribbed ribbon. Off-white cotton lining with separate button closure at bodice.
Temple dancer costume
Thai temple dancer costume with jewelry and head piece, including: A) Skirt in wrap style of black cotton printed in gold and red scroll design. Ankle length. Closure of two hook & bars on 1" waistband. B) Bodice/top of red synthetic satin. Strapless. Center back hook & eye closure. D) Shoulder drape of green tulle (narrow). E) Waist drape of green tulle. Constructed with three pleats across the top, large hanging triangle at the center and hanging drape off of one end.
Festival ensemble
Thailand - Hmong Hill Tribe Festival Attire A) Bodice of Black satin bodice with square neckline. Neckline "framed by embellished bands consisting of red outer and inner borders, "zig-zags" of red and blue bands, and applied flower-shaped pink and iridescent sequins with beads. Bands extend down front of bodice, and are around cuffs of the long sleeves. Around the neckline and cuffs of the 3/4-length sleeves are hung beaded pendants with silver-colored coins. Front opening along left side vertical band, with 4 hidden snaps. Unlined. No labels or tags in garment. B) Skirt, Knee- or Below-Knee-Length skirt of finely pleated black fabric. Wrap style, with plain panels at ends. Narrow waistband. Unlined, but faced at ends and with band near hem. No labels or tags in garment. C) Apron, Vertical front panel of black satin with an embellished "frame" composed of wide bands of decoration. Red outer and inner borders, "zig-zags" of red and blue bands, and applied flower-shaped pink and iridescent sequins with beads. Hung in rows across the apron are beaded pendants with silver-colored coins. Wide waistband matching the "frame" of the vertical panel, hung with beaded/coin pendants along most of lower edge. No labels or tags in garment. The following parts have separate records, not housed with garment: D) D) Hat. Hat formed of an open circle of black nylon(?) satin lined in black cotton. Upper portion with wide "rim" projecting out, from which hangs a fringe of white/clear beads, each of the 43 strands ending in a French Indo-China 10 centime coins, . The main body of the hat is covered with a "trellis" of blue and red ribbon, within each intersection there is a pink or white flower-head bead. Width: 10" (approx); Circumference: 32 1/2" (approx); Height: 4" without fringe. E) Necklace
Festival ensemble
Festival garment of Karen Hill Tribe A) Tunic. Black cotton square mid-length tunic, sides sewn except arm-holes, vertical slit at center front/back to form head-hole/neckline. Head-hole slit and arm holes edged with tiny white seeds. Body of tunic with horizontal bands of embroidery in various patterns (checkerboards, zig-zags, diamonds, "flowers") and colors (red, green, yellow, purple, pink, blue, orange), and horizontal bands of white seeds. At each side, and at center front and center back are "tassels" formed from the embroidery yarn. Bottom edge of tunic with fringe. Unlined. No labels or tags in garment. B) Skirt. Wrap skirt formed of rectangular panel of hand-woven cotton with horizontal woven wide stripes of red and black, with narrow stripes of green white, yellow, red, and black. Narrow ends with embroidered bands/edging of white triangles, red, yellow, green, pink, white, black, brown, etc. geometric inter-lace forms. 32 1/4" x ca. 68". No labels or tags in garment. c ) Necklace of nickel silver, large disk.
Wedding ensemble
Uzbekistan Wedding ensemble a) Pants - ikat in diagonal stripes, white, pinks, purples, etc. and with green upper panels b) Dress - matching ikat, no green panels c) Coat - Purple, embroidery, floral edging d) Veil- white, embroidered, beads, etc. f) Face shield of matching silk ikat covered cardboard with gold fringe along bottom edges. Machine embroidered in yellow lotus(?) flowers with gold bugle bead centers. E) Headpiece. Ornate headpiece of cardboard in the kokoshnik style. Large, triangular panel is covered in gold couched metallic cording with beaded rosettes and sequin backgrounds. Lower edge with fringe of gold beads ending in gold teardrop beads. Upper edge with multicolored row of feathers. Elastic strap across back holding it into shape, and to secure to wearer's head.
Festival ensemble
Rabari Tribe Festival Attire: A) Kanchali (Jacket/Vest/Top): Backless top with short sleeves and "V" neckline in front. Front and side panels covered with embroidery, primarily geometric designs, in rusts, orange, white, blue, yellow, green, and white. Three ties in back, at neck, upper, and middle back. Partly lined in red fabric. No labels or tags in top. B) Ghaghro (Skirt): Full-length skirt of heavy red fabric. Drawstring waist. Waistband with horizontal bands of: Vertical purple, yellow, and red striped silky fabric; thin band of red fabric; thin band of green fabric; thin band of orange fabric; thin band of black fabric. Body of skirt gathered into the waistband. Two horizontal rows of repeated large embroidered motifs of potted flowers with pairs of birds, interspersed with smaller motifs of flowers. Each design with inset small circular mirrors in embroidered frames. Lower section/hem with wide band of embroidered and appliqued decorations. From top: "wave" line with leaf-shaped forms, horizontal band of hearts laid side-ways with connecting line; Large band with flower heads, fines and leaves, with mirrors at center of each flower; Scroll with alternating leaf forms; Blue wave line, orange line, green line, orange wave line, purple line, orange line, green line, purple line, wide band of dark purple with diamond-stitching; purple line; black line; red line; green line; orange line; purple line; red line. Unlined. No labels or tags in skirt. C) Ohdni (Head scarf/shawl): Large pieced rectangular shawl in red, blue, brown, and black. Ornamented with embroidery, applique, mirrors, and band of coins. Central square set with large and small mirrors in rows, with embroidered borders/frames of red and purple. Set around central square are appliqued "Maltese cross" forms of white and orange fabric set with mirrors. Ends with large red panels repeating the "Maltese cross" forms but without …
Festival ensemble
Festival Attire, Hmong Tribe, Eastern Thailand-Western Laos. A) Bodice. Waist/upper hip-length, of black velvet with all-over printed pattern in textured "paint" of leaves/flowers in dark reds/purples done in "dots", outlined in silvery white. No collar. Center front opening edged on inside with wide band of needlework with "zig-zag" in red, pink, and green cross-stitch, bordered in green and yellow, and in band of sparkly silver ovals containing green, red, and yellow metallic reflective strands. Outer edge of "saw teeth" in groups of red, green, pale green, and white. Cuffs of the long sleeves with same wide bands. Back of bodice with "flap" at neck, edged with pink and green, upper section of black cloth with printed flowers in green, pink, purple, and white, edged in places with gold. Lower part of flap of cross-stitch/needlework in pink and green with dark on white forming zig-zig-based pattern. Bodice lined in white fabric printed with dense, all-over pattern of small purple flowers with green leaves. No labels or tags in bodice. b) Skirt. Wrap-style skirt, knee-length or lower. Wide woven blue waistband into which main body of skirt is tightly pleated. Upper section of skirt of plain blue fabric. Lower part of a blue denim-like fabric similar to waistband (indigo dyed) with white resist pattern of bands and blocks and circles. This panel, itself pleated into upper panel, is embellished with horizontal bands of pink/magenta stitching, and a band of green ribbon with pink diamond shapes. Long blue fabric ties. No tags or labels in skirt. c) Apron. Narrow "apron" set horizontally. Waistband consist of (from top to bottom): Band of printed fabric with narrow blue border with blue printed design, then band of blue with white flowerheads separated by gold "x" shapes, then thinner lower border; Wider band of needlework with pink …
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