Calotte of beige fabric, heavily beaded. The calotte (also spelled "calot") is constructed with a low, domed crown of stiffened net and beige fabric, with areas that extend down at sides and back. The whole is covered with clear sequins, yellow rhinestones, bugle beads, small metal strips, etc. The hat has an inner peach/beige grosgrain ribbon hatband, and four small metal loops sewn in to use to attach to wearer's head with bobby pins. Designer's label: "Gilbert Orcel / 5 Rue de Cirque Paris (8º)"
Calotte of off-white satin. The calotte (also spelled "calot") has a domed crown covered with horizontally pleated off-white satin, and comes to points at temples. On right point is a large flower-like puff of same material. Hat is unlined, allowing stiffened white net under-structure to be seen. Hat has inner off-white grosgrain hatband and a small comb to help secure it to wearer's head.
Calotte of brown straw. Styled as a calotte (also spelled "calot"), the hat has a teardrop shaped crown of dark brown straw, with the "point" of the teardrop extending down the right side of the wearer's head. The edge of the crown is trimmed with two bands of grosgrain ribbon, cream and brown, which have been tightly pleated and arranged to simulate a herringbone pattern. At the right side the ribbons form two simulated plumes. The hat is unlined, with an inner hatband of dark brown grosgrain ribbon. A small cream stitch on the hatband indicates the front of the hat. Retailer's label sewn to inner hatband: "Neiman-Marcus" The hat is accompanied by a single short hatpin, the head of which is covered with dark brown grosgrain ribbon matching that of the hat.
Calotte style hat of black satin. Bow of black satin as trim. Net at back of hat. Hatpin with head covered in matching satin. Lined. Comb at inside front of hat for securing hat to wearer's head. Retailer's label: "A. Harris & Co. / Dallas" Union/size label to right of retailer's label.
Cocktail dress of fuschia (cranberry) silk with black feather print; bodice has round neckline and three-quarter length sleeves; skirt is knee-length and very full, gathered at waist and covered by a short piece of self fabric.
Cocktail dress of black faille and white linen with jacket and belt. A) Bolero style jacket in black silk faille. Center front opening with four small black circular buttons and bound buttonholes. Short, set-in sleeves trimmed with three matching buttons on tops of sleeves with bound buttonholes. Small welt pockets at sides. Jacket and sleeves lined in white silk satin. Combined designer/retailer label at center back neckline: "Neiman-Marcus Dallas / Traina-Norell" B) Dress of black silk faille. Set-in waistline with upper bodice of white linen. Linen bodice is sleeveless and has center front opening with five white circular plastic buttons and bound buttonholes. Banded collar extends to form bow tie ends. Mid-calf length skirt is full and formed by 10 panels. Left side zipper under arm hole. Black grosgrain ribbon petersham at natural waist with single hook & eye closure. Set-in waist section supported by metal boning. Lined in black silk in lower portion of skirt. Entire skirt section lined in heather brown woolen fabric to stiffen skirt. C) Narrow belt covered in black silk faille. Rectangular self covered buckle.
Day dress of red ribbed wool. Squared neckline; 3/4 length sleeves. Set-in waistline with attached 1-1/2" wraparound belt that closes in back with 2 hook & eyes and a snap. Below knee length. Center front opening with 7 hook & eyes on waistband and 7 red, circular, plastic buttons and bound buttonholes below waistband. Lined in red silk; bodice lining is sleeveless with center front zipper closure. Designer's label at right seam of bodice lining: "Automne-Hiver 1953 / Christian Dior / Paris / Made in France" and stamped on designer's label: "36416" Style number label under designer's label, illegible: "--6--4"
Daytime dress of red silk faille. Street length. Short sleeves with turned-back edge. Shawl collar with button-down ends at front. Center front opening of 6 circular faceted red plastic buttons. Skirt gathers/pleats at waistline. Side slit pockets. Bodice partly lined in red silk. Red grosgrain ribbon petersham with hook & eye. Designer's label at right side seam: "Christian Dion Original / Made in U.S.A. / Christian Dior - New York Inc. / Trademark" Retailer's label at left side seam of skirt: "Neiman-Marcus". With accompanying belt of red leather covered with matching red silk faille. Elongated oval buckle covered with red silk faille except for tongue, which is enameled red. Designer's stamp on back: "Christian Dior / New York, Inc." and size, partly illegible. 10 or 12.
Ensemble. The skirt is of heavy gold felt covered with black floral lace, which has been heavily "beaded" with sequins. Side zipper closure, and two side-seam pockets. Retailer's label inside skirt on side seam: "Neiman-Marcus". With black velvet belt, which is marked on reverse: "16 Charming Belts. 6406", "This / 'Bac-A-Belt' backing / guaranted by / Good Housekeeping" / wash or clean / as garment". The accompanying blouse is of black silk jersey with half length sleeves and gathered detail at scoop neckline. Center back zipper closure that extends full length of the garment. Inner waistband of grosgrain ribbon with hook and eye closure. No labels in blouse.
Ensemble of navy-blue and slightly lighter silk organza composed of vertical hand-faggoted bands of alternating shades of blue giving light and dark effect. A) Blouse. Waist length with extending peplum to tuck under skirt. V-neckline, with collar of flat reveres with faggoted border. Short sleeves with turned-back cuffs. Center front opening with 4 self-covered buttons, a snap at the natural waistline, and 1 hook and loop and 5 hooks and eyes on peplum. The stripes and peplum are lined in pale gray organza, leaving the faggotted seams unlined. Underarm gussetts, with built-in pads. No labels. B) Skirt. Street length, full skirt matching bodice, with alternating vertical stripes, narrow navy blue waistband with center front opening with 5 self-covered buttons, and one hook and eye and two hook and loops on waistband, and a large snap which matches to bodice. Lined as blouse, with cream organza lining the stripes, but the faggotted bands left open, and with an inner skirt attached at waist of same cream silk organza, and with inner petticoat with flounce of cream tulle which has separate closure with 9 hook-and-eyes. No labels. Handwritten note on waistband "RH650 2P(?)" C) Inner shell camisole/lining for blouse of cream silk. Sleeveless, waist length, with V-neckline and center front opening with 7 hook-and-eye closures. Fitted slightly raised waistline. Designer's label at left side seam near hem: "Christian Dior / Paris" "Printemps-Ete 1953"; "Made in France"; 34419(?) Handwritten label underneath designer's label: "58.889"
Evening dress of white silk jersey. Floor length; long dolman sleeves. Deep V neckline. Set-in waistline gathered at sides. Skirt gathers below set-in waistline. Left side zipper with two snaps; petersham at interior of waist. Hip drapery with wide sewn in "belt", pleated at ends and closed with 4 hook & eyes. Unlined. Combined designer/retailer label on inside left seam near hem: "Neiman-Marcus Dallas / Traina-Norell"
Hat of white straw and navy blue/black embroidery appliques. The domed crown is of finely woven white straw. The narrow brim turns up at the edges, somewhat irregularly, and is edged in dark navy blue/black embroidery appliques that cover upper and lower parts of the brim. The inside of the crown has a dark navy blue/black grosgrain ribbon inner hatband. Designer's label sewn to inner hatband: "Hazel Eller - Custom Made". Accompanied by two short hat-pins, one with a head covered in matching straw, the other with a simulated pearl head.
Hat of brown straw. The domed crown of varnished woven brown straw is encircled at the base by a ribbon of brown velvet which has loops and a trailing end at one side simulating a bow. The ribbon is trimmed along the lower edge with a string of beads, simulating small pearls, which loops around the "bow". The flat brim folds under at the edge, forming a double thickness. The hat is unlined, and has an inner hatband of brown grosgrain ribbon along the lower inside edge of the crown. There are no labels or tags in the hat.
Hat of gray and natural straw. The low, domed crown is of a dark blue-gray woven straw, encircled at the base by a band of red velvet ribbon that forms a bow at front and has trailing ends at back. The wide brim of the same dark blue-gray straw is oval, set so sides are wider than front/back edges. Over the brim is a smaller oval panel of natural woven straw, giving the effect of a second, smaller brim. The hat is unlined, with dark blue-gray grosgrain ribbon hatband. Designer's label on inner hatband: "Marion Vallé / New York". Retailer's label on inner hatband: "Gus Mayer / Co. Ltd."
Hat of pale yellow/tan straw. The sailor-style hat has a domed crown of pale straw encircled at the base with a band of pale yellow velvet with "bow" loop at back. Over the ribbon is a band of fine veiling. The circular brim is of the same straw on top, but is of double-thickness, the underside of white straw. The inside of the crown with a wide off-white grosgrain ribbon hatband. Accompanied by two short hatpins, with red velvet and gold ribbon heads. Retailer's label sewn to inner hatband: "Neiman-Marcus".
Hat of white straw with red velvet and net trim. The domed crown of the hat is formed of three sections of white straw, two hemispheres overlapping a central band running front to back. Around the base of the crown is a wide red velvet ribbon with bow and trailing ends at back. Over the ribbon and brim is a fine red netting/veiling with scattered tiny white "blossoms" affixed to the netting/veiling. The flat, narrow brim turns under at the edge to create a double-thick edge. The inside of the crown has an off-white grosgrain inner hatband. Retailer's label sewn to inner hatband: "Neiman-Marcus / Dallas".
Pillbox hat of beige/light brown suede. The low, cylindrical crown is of suede, with a thin band of black patent leather piping along inner edge of sides, encircling the flattened crown. At back of hat is a flat bow of black patent leather. The hat is lined in cream and gold brocade, and has edging of black rickrack and two small combs to help secure hat to wearer's head. Maker's label inside: "Made Especially / for you by / Henry".
Skirt suit. A) Jacket of black boucle wool. Long, set-in sleeves with hem edged in black satin. Turn-back collar, black satin revers. Four front patch pockets with flaps trimmed in black satin and one circular black satin-covered button on each pocket. Lined in black silk satin. Combined designer's/retailer's label at inside back collar: "Neiman-Marcus Dallas / Traina-Norell" B) Blouse of black satin. Piped around jewel neckline and sleeveless armholes. 2" waistband ties at left side. Zipper closure from hem partway up left side. Center back opening with 2 hook & loops. Unlined. Six elastic loops around hem to attach to skirt. No labels in blouse. C) Skirt of black boucle wool. Mid-length; 4 gored with two zippers at waist creating a "front flap" which also secures with two tabs at waistband, each tab secured with two hook-and-eyes. Four buttons at waistband which secure to loops on hem of blouse. Lined in black silk. No labels found in skirt.
Day suit of royal blue linen consisting of: A) Blazer. Single breasted with 4 circular, blue plastic buttons and bound buttonholes. Release tucks at bust line. Notched collar; hip length. Long, set-in sleeves with turned-back cuffs. Flap pockets at sides. Lined in matching blue silk jacquard with "Christian Dior" woven design. Designer's label at right side seam: "Christian Dior-New York / Original / *Trade Mark" Retailer's label at center back neckline: "Neiman-Marcus" B) Skirt in straight style. Left side zipper with 3 hook & eyes. Center back 12" pleat. Unlined.