Cloche hat of tan straw. The high, domed crown is of woven tan straw in a spiraling pattern. On either side of the crown is an applique in blue, pink/gray, and black felt of an arc or half-circle. On one side, the arc points up, on the other side it points down. Around the base of the crown is a narrow band of black felt. The brim is also of woven straw, upturned at sides and edged with black felt. The hat is lined in a slightly iridescent bronze/gold fabric, now very shattered. Inside the crown is stitched an ornate label, with a view of two women playing tennis and the inscription: "Berkeley / Made in / California". A small arrow and the word "Front" indicates the front of the hat. Attached to an inner seam of the lining is size label "22".
Coat of purple wool. Below-knee-length, collarless, and with long sleeves. Center front opening with three large, self covered buttons. Two patch pockets trimmed with one matching button each and framed in 3/4 inch inserts. Lined in purple silk crepe. Designer's label at inside center back neckline: "Adrian / Original" With matching covered belt with functioning belt buckle. Leather reverse with three punched holes. Stamped "1756 - 14"
Cocktail dress of large plaid orange, green, purple, and red raw and china silk. The dress is sleeveless, ankle-length, with red/orange raw silk halter-top bodice, "shawl" of same which is attached at mid-back and drapes over shoulders and across front. Lined in pale green. Skirt of dress is of silk, with large, plaid squares of reds, oranges, greens, and purples. Attached cummerbund style belt which buttons in back with 5 self-covered buttons and loops. Center back zipper Lined in light gold organza. Combined designer's/retailer's label at left side seam of lining near hem: "Gump's / San Francisco / Gibson Bayh / Original" Accompanying petticoat formed of three full-length layers of red, purple, and green silk. Each layer with hem band of grosgrain ribbon in a different color, and each with deep net ruffle at hem, also edged with grosgrain ribbon. Center back zipper with two hook & eyes on 1" waistband. Combined designer's/retailer's label at center back waistband: "Gump's / San Francisco / Gibson Bayh / Original"
Floor length day dress. Long sleeves with gathered opening at bottom of sleeve. Bodice of brown wool ribbed knit with kimono style sleeves and gusset at underarm. Brown ribbed knit stops on sleeves above elbow. Bottom of sleeve out of wool jersey knit in brown and purple rectangular checked pattern. Rounded neckline. False layered effect at neckline out of same brown and purple rectangular checked print. Skirt gathered at waistline and constructed of wool jersey knit in large brown and purple checked pattern. Center back lapped zipper closure. Designer label: "Rudi Gernreich design for / Harmon Knitwear"; "14" Care label: "Dry Clean / Only / 100% wool" With belt of brown wool ribbed knit. 1 1/4 inch wide. Silver colored metal cap finishes one end, while silver colored metal adjustable buckle is on other end. Engraved in metal buckle "SOLID BRASS / made in / USA"
Day dress of oatmeal variegated silk/linen blend(?). Knee-length, coat-style dress with collar and center front opening with 3 large circular "carved" horn buttons with teardrop centers, and one non-functioning one at bottom; bound buttonholes. Two hooks and loops at waist. Elbow-length sleeves. Natural waist into which bodice and skirt are slightly gathered at front and back, and appear to be deeply gathered at sides, but are not - backed by elastic to pull together. String belt loops. Lined in light tan/dark cream acetate(?). Designer's label at inside back collar: "Barney Max / designs ltd. / California" With accompanying belt of tan leather faced with same fabric as dress; 1-1/4" wide. Square buckle covered with same fabric. Former owner's mark on back: "7 Leathers"
Day dress of printed golden yellow silk patterned overall with purple, orange and red flowers, green leaves, and black dots. The knee-length dress has a jewel neckline and padded shoulders. The long sleeves have 3" zippered cuffs. The dress has a dropped waist with three-tier, knife pleated skirt. Center back zipper with hook & eye. Lined in yellow organza. Designer's label at left underarm: "Galanos" Retailer's label at right underarm: "I. Magnin" Care label to right of retailer's label.
Day dress of red and purple printed wool knit. Knee-length or slightly below, the dress has a fairly deep rounded neckline and long set-in sleeves. Skirt is gathered at slightly dropped waist. Dress has a center back zipper, and is unlined. The dress is made of of areas of print. The bodice and upper part of the skirt has a geometric print of purple diamond/parallelagram shapes on red ground. The sleeves and lower part of the skirt have a print of large purple squares on red ground, forming a checkerboard pattern. Center back lapped zipper. Unlined. Designer label: "Rudi Gernreich design for / 10 Harmon Knitwear" Care label: "Dry Clean / Only / 100% wool"
Day dress of gray and yellow windowpane plaid cotton. Street length with short sleeves. Short collar. Faux placket runs down the center front of the bodice with bow at top and line of 5 non-functional white buttons. Full skirt is pleated and gathers at natural waist. At each side, slightly behind hip, are two slit pockets with side "flaps". Center back zipper closure, and grosgrain ribbon petersham with hook-and-eye closure. Unlined. Designer's label inside at left side seam: "Galanos / Originals / Beverly Hills" Retailer's label inside skirt at front: "Neiman-Marcus".
Dress of white linen (cotton?), the fabric with alternating square of double weave, plain squares and a "waffle weave". Knee length; A-line silhouette. Triangular inserts at side seams gradually widening toward hemline. In-seam pocket at side seams. Jewel neckline. Shaped armhole with cap sleeves. Center back lapped zipper. Fully lined in white silk. Designer label: "Rudy Gernreich" Retailer label: "Neiman-Marcus / Trophy Room"
Dress of blue and white striped linen(?). Below knee length, with high, rounded neckline, with off-white linen thin flattened tubular collar, and 3/4 length sleeves. Stripes on front and back of main part of dress run horizontally, on sides of dress run vertically, and run down the length of the arms. Center back zipper closure, with hook and loop at collar and at center back/waist area. Fully lined in dark navy blue. Designer's label at inside back hem of lining near slit: "Travilla" With accompanying long tie belt of same fabric.
Dress of black diagonally ribbed matelassé cotton. Main body of dress is mid-thigh length, with an extending underskirt of same fabric attached to lining which makes the dress knee-length. Rounded jewel neckline and 3/4 length sleeves. Center back zipper with hook & eye. Lined in black fabric. Designer's label at center back neckline to left of zipper: "Travilla"
Evening dress of silk crepe for summer. The full-length dress has an A-line skirt of cocoa brown silk crepe and attached belt with pendant strap at front left. The bodice is of cream silk crepe printed with a "trompe l'oeil" ribbon motif below the rounded neckline. Darts at sides. Long, bat-wing style tapered sleeves. Center-back snap closure. Unlined. Designer's label: "Adrian / Original"
Dress of off-white / ivory wool knit. The form-fitting full-length sheath has a round neckline and short cap sleeves. The entire dress is covered with iridescent sequins, and is decorated at lower part with five bands of gold/copper sequins, 3 bands of rosettes composted of gold beads and pearls, and two bands of "garlands" with suspended pine-cone forms and diamond shapes of copper/gold sequins, gold bugle beads, and gold beads. Dress has zipper closure along center back. Label reads: "Gene Shelly's / Boutique Internationale / California / Hand Decorated in Hong Kong / 100% Wool"
Dress of navy blue wool jersey. a) Day dress of navy wool jersey. White linen detachable collar connects to neckline with snaps. Below knee length with A-line skirt. White linen 7/8" bias strip at edge of center front opening that extends 7 1/2" below waist. Thirteen 3/4" pearl buttons with gold edge and bound buttonholes; buttons separate at waistline to accommodate belt. Long sleeves with 1-3/4" slit at seam. 3" deep pleat in skirt at side front and back. Concealed slit pockets in side seams. Unlined. Designer's label on inside left seam: "Norman Norell / New York" b) Belt of 3" wide white patent leather, slightly curved, with large circular gold buckle. Not original to garment. Evidence of small cords at side seams, which Norell usually used to attach cloth belts, or thin belt-loops. This belt would not have fit. Retailer's stamp on reverse: "I Magnin / 30 Calderon 5938"
Ensemble of blue silk crepe with black and white print, consisting of: A) Tunic top of silk crepe. Short, bat wing sleeves with insert of black, rectangular material at shoulder line. Mock V-neck opening backed with same material and ties of self. Center back zipper. Unlined. Designer's label at back zipper: "Adrian / Original" B) Skirt of same fabric. Straight; below knee-length. Black crepe waistband. Zipper closure with slit at hem line. Unlined.
Two-piece wool tweed cape/coat street ensemble. a) Cape coat of wool tweed in three shades of plum. Long, single-breasted coat with cape attached at shoulders. Four button closure with alternating bound buttonholes and supplemented with two hook & eyes. Two small double welt pockets on yoke and two larger double welt pockets at waistline. Coat dress portion is tailored at waistline with 3/4 length sleeves. Small turndown collar. Lined in rust brown colored silk faille. Designer's label at inside back neckline: "Adrian / Original" b) Straight skirt of matching wool tweed. Unlined. Zipper closure.
Ensemble consisting of: A) Jacket of black and white gingham cotton check. Bracelet length sleeves. Side front opening with 7" button extension. On left side front, there are two large circular black plastic buttons at waist and one at top button at neckline flap closure; bound buttonholes. Peter pan collar starts at piping edge of left side front and right side front. Two flap welt pockets. Back with inverted box pleat which starts open at neckline and goes to 2" above waist where it is stitched together. Side back shoulders have flanges which are basted down at bottom. Collar's, pockets', cuffs', front to back flanges hemline's and front opening's edges all bound in black satin bias tape. Lined in smaller cotton gingham check. Designer's label at inside center back neckline: "Galanos" B) Blouse of black and white, small gingham check. Center front opening with 2 (+ 1 missing) black circular plastic buttons supplemented with snaps and hook & eyes. Fitted, flared waist . Sleeveless. Collarless, slightly scooped neckline which forms a V in back. Neckline, sleeve openings and center front opening trimmed in black satin. Lined in fine white net. Designer's label on inside left seam: "Galanos" C) A-line skirt, street length, in black and white gingham cotton. Narrow waist of black grosgrain. Left side zipper. Lined in cream colored silk. d) Contour belt covered in black and white gingham check. Square buckle covered in same. Three holes. Back in light tan leather. Stamped: "Galanos Originals / Beverly Hills" e) Hat of quilted black and white gingham check. Black satin headband ties in knot on right. Crown in smaller check than brim. Brim piped in black satin and slits at right beneath headband knot. Lined in alternating triangular sections of large and small gingham check. Designer's label on inside hatband: ...
Evening dress in mermaid style of bronze Qiana knit covered in flat copper/bronze sequins. 2" stand up band collar. Long sleeves with 3" cuffs, each having 3 self covered, sequined buttons. Center back zipper with hook & eye. 3" waist band with interior petersham. Slightly flared, full length skirt. Unlined. Combined designer/retailer label on inside seam: "Norman Norell for I. Magnin & Co." Union label to right of designer/retailer label.
Evening dress of off-white Qiana knit in mermaid style covered in flat gold sequins. 1" stand up band collar. Long sleeves with zippers at wrists. Center back zipper with hook & eye. 1-1/2" waistband with slightly flared skirt. Unlined. Combined designer/retailer label on inside seam near hem: "Norman Norell for I. Magnin & Co."
Evening dress of black heavy crepe with rows of looped accents at neckline, left sleeve, left hip and on draped band below left hip. Two hanging tabs from right waistline. Sheath silhouette. Pointed collar with open slit. Long sleeves with small zippers at cuffs. Full length with vent at center front. Center back zipper closure. Designer's label: "Adrian / Original"
Evening dress consisting of jacket and skirt. A) Jacket. The fitted black velvet jacket is encrusted with gold braid/ribbon in a lattice/trellis pattern over the entire surface, with added buttons, cabochons, beads, etc. lavishly sewn over the surface. The jacket has a no collar, and short capped sleeves. From the natural waist flares a peplum. The jacket has a center front closure of hooks-and-eyes. Unlined, it has built-in shoulder pads. No label in jacket. B) Straight skirt is full-length, of heavy black crepe. Center back zipper closure with hook-and-eye at waistband. Designer's label inside skirt at side seam: "Adrian / Custom", along with a second label, typed on white grosgrain ribbon, sewn in: "Neiman Marcus 417 / Size 12".
Evening ensemble of red Qiana knit covered in red sequins, consisting of two parts: A) Evening dress in mermaid style. Slip style bodice with spaghetti straps. Full length, straight skirt. Center back zipper with hook & eye. 1" waistband with interior red grosgrain ribbon petersham. Bodice lined in red Qiana knit; skirt lined in red silken fabric. Combined designer/retailer label on inside seam of lining: "Norman Norell for I. Magnin & Co." B) Matching Chanel-style jacket. Long sleeves. Collarless neckline, center front opening and hem of sleeves trimmed with 1" border of straight-line sequins. Horizontal welt pockets at sides also bordered with 1" straight-line sequins. Lined in matching red Qiana knit. Retailer's label at center back neckline: "I. Magnin & Co."
Open crown hat with olive green straw encircling front visor and headband. Ochre velvet draped over visor decorated with small white, bell-shaped flowers. Designer's label on inside hatband: "Kenneth Hopkins Original"
Pillbox style hat of tan fur felt. High crown with 2 small black buttons pinching the fabric throughout. Eight small black buttons form a V with black and red satin tubing as trim on edge. Inner headband of black grosgrain ribbon. Maker's label on inside headband: "Helen Brounet / California"
Hat of fine pale pink straw, pink satin, and artificial flowers. The body of the hat is of woven fine pale pink straw. The cylindrical, flat-topped crown is encircled by a wide, horizontally pleated band of pink satin. The hat has a very narrow, almost non-existent brim of the same straw. At right side of hat is a large spray of pale pink artificial flowers with green stems. The hat is unlined, with an inner hatband of white ribbon machine embroidered/brocaded with red and green floral motifs. Designer's label: "An Original / Phil Strann / California"
Hat of black and bronze velvet. Based on a pillbox, the low, domed crown is of black velvet, with top finial of a crossed bronze velvet ribbon with trailing ribbons and a black curling feather with two long thin black feathers. The sides of the hat are composed of two horizontal bands of velvet, the upper of bronze color, the lower of black. The whole hat is overlaid by black net veiling with wide mesh. The unlined felt body has an inner black grosgrain ribbon hatband. Designer's label: "Originals / by / Michael Terre / Southern California" Stamped inside: "Jacomet / Body made in France"
Hat of green artificial leaves. Designed somewhat as a cloche, the body of the hat is a stiffened mesh forming a domed crown which is completely overlaid with overlapping green artificial leaves. The hat is unlined, with an inner green grosgrain ribbon hatband. Designer's label: "Original Design by / Madcaps / Paris New York": Retailer's label: "I. Magnin & Co."
Hat of navy straw in modified breton style. Wide, flat top crown with rolled back, asymmetrical brim higher in front. Red and navy grosgrain ribbon decorates edge of brim. Navy veil. Inside of crown is lined in net with navy grosgrain ribbon headband. Manufacturer's label on inside headband: "Helen Brounet / California"
Hat of brown felt. The domed crown is "sunken" within the sides of itself, creating a wall around it. The brown felt brim extends around sides and front only, and is turned up. From the top of the brim is attached a brown net veil. Hat has an inner brown grosgrain ribbon hatband, and an elasticized cord to help secure it to wearer's head. Retailer's label: "Ransohoffs / San Francisco" Label: "Mr. John"
Hat of navy blue gabardine. Based on a modified top-hat design, the cylindrical soft crown is slightly "crushed". The brim, of the same material, turns up in front and down in back. At back of brim/crown is a navy blue faille bow with trailing ribbons. The crown is lined in white satin, and there is a black grosgrain ribbon inner hatband. Attached inside crown at back is label: "Margie Webb designs / California Accessories".
Hat of black felt. The low, domed crown of black felt is ornamented with a double-spray of black feathers at front. The brim, also of black felt, is turned up at front and turned down at back. The underside of the brim, which shows at front, is lined in black lace embellished with tiny black sequins and beads (jet?). The hat is unlined, with an inner hatband of black grosgrain ribbon. Attached to inner hatband is a small black plastic comb to secure hat to wearer's head. Maker's label sewn to inner hatband: "Grace Nugent / Los Angeles, Calif." Supplier's logo mark of Merrimac De Luxe Fur Felt stamped to inside of crown.
Hat of brown felt. The low, slightly domed crown is almost hidden by the upturned brim. At front facing of brim is large flat brown grosgrain ribbon bow. Around the base of the crown is affixed brown net veiling. The hat is unlined, with inner brown grosgrain ribbon hatband. Combined designer's/retailer's label inside: "Leslie James / Designed for Sakowitz / Houston" Manufacturer's style stamp inside crown: "Midi / Imported Velour Body / Made in France"
Hatlet of brown felt. Low domed crown of the hat is encircled by a wreath of artificial velvet roses and brown ostrich feathers, overlaid with brown net veiling. The hat is unlined, with inner brown grosgrain ribbon hatband, and black cord to help secure hat to wearer's head. Designer's label: "Suzy Lee / Made in / California"
Hatlet of artificial flowers and net. The hatlet is composed of a radiating group of artificial rosebuds of pink and white with green stems and leaves. The sprays are attached to a black net circular veil. Designer's label: "By / Therese Ahrens" Retailer's label: "I. Magnin & Co."
Jacket of navy blue wool crepe. Asymmetrically trimmed with pleated band falling from right shoulder, secured with white buckle at waistline. Self belt at waist with matching white buckle. Long sleeved with pleated diagonal at lower right sleeve. Designer's label: "Adrian / Original"
Woman's jacket of purple wool with asymmetrical curved inset at right shoulder. Two bound slit pockets below shoulder. Center front closure with 3 buttons and bound buttonholes. Two slit pockets at hips with an asymmetrical inset over left pocket. Designer's label: "Adrian / Original"
Picture hat of black felt. Low, domed crown of black felt, encircled at base by band of black felt with large white rose of white fabric at front left. The wide brim has a shallow curve downwards, and is edged with a wide band of off-white twill. The crown of the hat is unlined; the underside of the brim has concentric bands of off-white twill. The inner hatband is of black grosgrain ribbon. Designer's label: "Mae Kelley / Exclusive Hand Made Hats / Whittier, Calif."
Picture hat of black velvet with domed crown and wide brim edged in black satin. Hatband of pleated black satin. Bright green ostrich feathers on left side of crown. Lined in pink fabric. Designer's label: "Mae Kelley / Exclusive Hand Made Hats / Whittier, Calif." Retailer's label: "Yvonne / Hats / California"
Pumps of light tan ostrich skin. Shoes with rounded throat on vamp and edged with stitching. Vamp and outside panels with textured nubbly ostrich leather. 3 3/8" spike heels covered in smooth ostrich leather. Inner lining of silver metallic leather. Soles of natural brown leather. Stamped in each shoe: "Giorgio / Beverly Hills". Stamped inside right shoe: "US 5 1/2 74 N69". Stamped on sole of each shoe: partly illegible leather mark; "5 1/2"
Woman's skirt suit of grey-black twill wool with blue and creme yellow pinstripe. a) Jacket has flat pointed collar with a rectangular insert yoke panel trimmed with four teal, olive and brown mottled plastic buttons. Center front opening with three same buttons and bound button holes. Bodice has 3 faux pocket flaps on right, increasing in size like a step pyramid. Long, one-piece set in sleeves sleeves with two elbow darts on both arms. Right arm has two rectangular, decorative fabric panels on right sleeve of jacket's fabric, with a single button and bound button hole each in the upper, outer corner. Lined in tan silk faille. Designer's Label at center back collar: "Adrian/ in/British Samek Material" (b) A-line skirt with CF and CB and side seams. Hemmed in navy blue hem tape, blind hem (slip) stitched on both sides. 3" hem. Four waist darts, with 1 3/8" waist band ending in arrow tip over left-side lapped zipper.
Brown gabardine suit. a) Suit jacket of brown gaberdine. Long sleeves. Single breasted with three circular brown buttons and bound buttonholes. Two faux flap pockets at yoke with matching, smaller buttons and bound buttonholes. Two lower hacking pockets with matching, smaller buttons and bound buttonholes. V-shaped yoke on back. Lined in rust colored silk. No designer's label. Retailer's label on inside center back neckline: "Nan Duskin / Philadelphia" b)Skirt of brown gaberdine. A-lined shape with left side zipper. Kick pleat at center front seam. Unlined.
Ecru worsted wool two-piece suit. A: Jacket with center front opening with four beige plastic buttons with bound button holes, first two spread apart by 2" next two spread apart by 10". Collared. Motif of concentric arced inserts, 1.175" wide each, starting from shoulder point, arcing down past second button. This upside down arc repeats on the back with a rainbow meeting the shoulder's center. On front, two more arc inserts motif repeat, with the rainbow arc stretching over the smaller reversed arc between the sections of buttons. One-piece set in sleeves with double elbow darts. Lined in beige silk faille. Retailer's label at center back collar: "Neiman-Marcus" Designer's Label at front right jacket lining: "Adrian / Original" B: Unlined A-line skirt of same fabric with lapped zipper covered by triangle pointed waistband tip on the left side. Waistband 1 3/8" wide. Four darts total, two in front, two in back. Pinked edge to seam allowances. Hem tape attached to 3" wide hem edge with machine stitch, tape hand based to inside of skirt with blind hem (slip stitch) stitch.
Two-piece daytime skirt suit of Mexican homespun cotton consisting of: A) Jacket. Body of jacket is purple, long sleeves and collarless yoke of green, with a narrow band of rose inserted below yoke in front. Jacket has padded shoulders and is slightly fitted, and closes with hooks and eyes in front. Small string tie at waist. Fully lined in purple silk. Designer label inside: "Adrian / Original" B) Skirt. Skirt is purple, below knee-length, of slim design flaring slightly. Was altered to lengthen, and then restored to original length. Side zipper closure, and waistband has snap and two hook-and-eye closures. No Labels. A hat was made to go with the suit by Henry's, Dallas, accession number 1967.002.003
Summer suit of textured silk crepe in coral and black Holstein cow print with black flies. A) Jacket has two front ties; one at neck and one at natural waist. Two hook-and-eye closures along center front behind waist tie; flip peplum and 3/4 sleeves. Unlined. Built-in shoulder pads. Label: "Adrian / Original". B) Skirt is below knee-length; gored and flared. Waistband with hook-and-eye closure. Unlined. No Labels.
Black wool two-piece skirt suit. A) Jacket. Just below hip-length, with center front opening with three hook-and-eye closures. Faux tie of same fabric at waist. Slight collar, and v-neckline. Thin orange/red inset line across front and up to shoulders. Long sleeves with inset orange/red panels along length of sleeves, with cording detailing and zipper closures at cuffs. Slit pockets just below waist. Designer's label: "Adrian / Original" B) Skirt of matching black wool. Street length. Possibly a replacement for the original skirt.
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