Ensemble - Kutchi Group, Pashtun Peoples, Afghanistan

Description

Ensemble - Kutchi Dress, Pashtun Peoples, Afghanistan. This assembled ensemble consists of: 1. Dress. Full-length. High neckline, slight V-shape. Front yoke/bib panel of fine needlework geometric shapes and patterns, in orange, purple, green, and blue. Front of bodice with four large embroidered rosettes of silver couching with orange silver/white, and black borders. Over-length, wide sleeves of patchwork of materials, including red, purple, and pink. Cuffs of heavy silver couching with central band of small circular mirrors in needlework frames. High, narrow waistband of silver/gold couching. Front of skirt formed of thin black fabric heavily gathered to form voluminous front panel. ... continued below

Physical Description

Headpiece measurements: Metal section: 10 1/2" wide x 5 3/8" highest with fringe. Necklace measurements: 14 1/4" wide at widest; 7 1/2" from top of neck to bottom of fringe. Pendants measurements: #1 (no coins): 5" high with fringe x 3 1/4" wide at widest point. #2 (with coins): 5 1/8" high with fringe x 4" wide at widest point.

Creation Information

Creator: Unknown. 1940/1960.

Context

This physical object is part of the collection entitled: Texas Fashion Collection and was provided by UNT College of Visual Arts + Design to Digital Library, a digital repository hosted by the UNT Libraries. It has been viewed 123 times , with 8 in the last month . More information about this object can be viewed below.

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UNT College of Visual Arts + Design

The UNT College of Visual Arts + Design (CVAD) seeks to engage UNT's diverse student population with issues of artistic heritage, stimulate students' imagination and involvement with the world, foster their critical and analytical thinking, and inspire their creativity through educational opportunities in art education, art history, design, and studio arts, all supported by a vital program of creative research.

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  • Main Title: Ensemble - Kutchi Group, Pashtun Peoples, Afghanistan
  • Added Title: Dress - Kutchi Group, Pashtun Peoples, Afghanistan.

Description

Ensemble - Kutchi Dress, Pashtun Peoples, Afghanistan. This assembled ensemble consists of:

1. Dress. Full-length. High neckline, slight V-shape. Front yoke/bib panel of fine needlework geometric shapes and patterns, in orange, purple, green, and blue. Front of bodice with four large embroidered rosettes of silver couching with orange silver/white, and black borders. Over-length, wide sleeves of patchwork of materials, including red, purple, and pink. Cuffs of heavy silver couching with central band of small circular mirrors in needlework frames. High, narrow waistband of silver/gold couching. Front of skirt formed of thin black fabric heavily gathered to form voluminous front panel. Wide band of red fabric lining inside of front panel at hem. Back of bodice formed of red cloth with vertical white stripes. Embroidered panels under arms. Back of skirt formed of upper panel of purple printed with blue and off-white flowers and leaves, heavily gathered into waistband. Lower panel of purple fabric, as full as upper panel. Black hem on back of skirt.

2. Headpiece of silver set with glass and plastic(?) rubies and emeralds, center plaque with glass segments simulating lapis and jade(?). Central circular plaque with central red circular glass "stone" surrounded by 6 alternating triangular green and blue glass plaques forming a star. Star is encircled by ring of glass (plastic?) simulated rubies and emeralds. Outer openwork border. Extending above central plaque and connected by 4 small metal bar-shaped links is a triangular plaque set with same simulated rubies and emeralds. Extending horizontally from central plaque on either side are three rectangular metal plaques set with same simulated rubies and emeralds. All plaques connected by metal bar-shaped links. Hanging below connected plaques is fringe of short metal chain sections terminating in hollow spheres. The plaques are sewn to a narrow black cloth band designed to fit around the head, with another black cloth band running behind upper triangular plaque to back of head, connecting with band at back. Along the upper edge of the black fabric where the plaques are sewn is beaded border of tiny red and blue beads.

3. Necklace of ornate silver with glass simulated rubies and sapphires, and coins. "Dog-collar" style necklace of elongated vertical links that interlock. At ends are triangular plaques set with small circular simulated rubies and sapphires, with plain loops for securing. Spaced across collar are 7 attached flowerhead-shaped ornaments with large central oval glass gems surrounded by tiny tear-drop shaped mounts set with circular simulated gems. From three of the flowerheads are hung silver mounted coins, from the other four flowerheads are suspended triangular plaques set with circular simulated gemstones, and a final "fringe" of flower-shaped and star-pierced pendant forms and a fringe of silver chain ending in a sphere. The entire dog-collar section also has elongated chain/sphere fringe. The three coins are from Afghanistan, commemorating the 1974 Islamic Summit held at Minar, and are dated 1977.

4. Earrings. Pair of heavy pendant earrings of silver-colored metal and glass. Bail loops suspend a roughly semi-circular silver plate with collet-set glass sapphires, emeralds, and rubies. From lower edge of plate are suspended small clusters of flat silver shapes and small spheres. Earrings do not match exactly.

5. Pendants. Pair of pendant plaques of silver set with simulated gemstones. Each plaque is trapezoidal, almost triangular. Central artificial stone (one emerald, one sapphire) within border of smaller simulated stones (rubies, emeralds, sapphires). In corners of panel are set single artificial stones. Outer band of stones. Chased outer edges. Upper edge with applied loops/roundels with suns/flower-heads. From bottom edge of each plaque is a fringe of chain ending in hollow spheres. One plaque (sapphire center) has a coin suspended from loop at left and right side of plaque. One of the coins is from Iran, minted before 1980. No visible marks or hallmarks.

Physical Description

Headpiece measurements: Metal section: 10 1/2" wide x 5 3/8" highest with fringe.

Necklace measurements: 14 1/4" wide at widest; 7 1/2" from top of neck to bottom of fringe.

Pendants measurements:
#1 (no coins): 5" high with fringe x 3 1/4" wide at widest point.
#2 (with coins): 5 1/8" high with fringe x 4" wide at widest point.

Notes

This traditional dress would have been worn by Pashtun nomads, from the Pashtun region of Afghanistan, for a special occasion such as a wedding. Unlike Western fashion, which changes season to season, this type of garment was popular for a span of over 50 years, from the 1930s to the 1970s and beyond. Although on the surface it is simpler than the other Kuchi dress in this exhibition, lacking the bead and coin embellishments, its intricate needlework shows the amazing skill of the Pashtun peoples.

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Collections

This object is part of the following collection of related materials.

Texas Fashion Collection

The UNT Texas Fashion Collection is dedicated to the preservation and documentation of historically significant fashion, and serves as an educational and inspirational resource for students, researchers, and the general public. This vital resource is part of the UNT College of Visual Arts + Design.

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Creation Date

  • 1940/1960

Start & End Dates

  • 1940 - 1960

Added to The UNT Digital Library

  • March 7, 2014, 7:40 a.m.

Description Last Updated

  • Jan. 23, 2015, 1 a.m.

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Yesterday: 0
Past 30 days: 8
Total Uses: 123

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Ensemble - Kutchi Group, Pashtun Peoples, Afghanistan, physical object, 1940/1960; (digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc277162/: accessed June 23, 2018), University of North Texas Libraries, Digital Library, digital.library.unt.edu; crediting UNT College of Visual Arts + Design.