Festival ensemble

Description

Festival ensemble including (a) a below-knee length robe of red woven silk with embroidered ram's horn motif trim, (b) a cylindrical cap headpiece covered with circular silver repousse discs, and surmounted by a sphere with a central "spike" from which hang three bells and three oval plaques on short chains, (c) a pendant of silver and simulated lapis lazuli and carnelian, shaped as a large inverted flat "spade" card suit, and (d) a green cloth necklace edged with black cloth tape and embellished with spaced stamped silver roundels.

Creation Information

Creator: Unknown. 1950/2000.

Context

This physical object is part of the collection entitled: Texas Fashion Collection and was provided by the UNT College of Visual Arts + Design to the UNT Digital Library, a digital repository hosted by the UNT Libraries. It has been viewed 19 times. More information about this object can be viewed below.

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UNT College of Visual Arts + Design

The UNT College of Visual Arts and Design fosters creative futures for its diverse student population and the region through rigorous arts-based education, arts- and client-based studio practice, scholarship, and research. One of the most comprehensive visual arts schools in the nation, the college includes many nationally and regionally ranked programs.

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Description

Festival ensemble including (a) a below-knee length robe of red woven silk with embroidered ram's horn motif trim, (b) a cylindrical cap headpiece covered with circular silver repousse discs, and surmounted by a sphere with a central "spike" from which hang three bells and three oval plaques on short chains, (c) a pendant of silver and simulated lapis lazuli and carnelian, shaped as a large inverted flat "spade" card suit, and (d) a green cloth necklace edged with black cloth tape and embellished with spaced stamped silver roundels.

Notes

Ensemble components: a ) Robe of red woven silk with embroidered ram's horn motif trim. Below-knee length. Center-front opening with no closure. Vertical black seaming. Wide embroidered band around neckline of geometric forms and "ram's horns" forms in black, yellow, and white on base of checker-board/mountain forms of same colors. Band narrows slightly and continues down to edge center front opening then turns to edge hem of robe. Slight triangular slits at hem at sides, embroidery frames and radiates from slits. 3/4 to full-length sleeves, with wide black bands at cuffs. On "front" of cuffs are upper and lower borders of embroidery on the black bands, of the same patterns as rest of the jacket. Back is plain other than hem embroidery. Jacket is fully lined in red cotton cloth printed with bold floral pattern of blue roses touched with white, and reddish foliage. The field of the cloth has small scattered blue and white squares. Embroidery bands are backed with brownish red fabric with woven stripes of yellow and black. One cuff lined in purple, one in pink/white/pale purple printed cotton fabric. No labels or tags in garment.
b ) Headpiece. Based on a low cylindrical cap which may be coiled or embroidered/quilted, the headpiece is covered with circular silver repousse discs, and surmounted by a sphere with a central "spike" from which hang three bells and three oval plaques on short chains. Around base of sphere is a band of cowrie shells. Around the lower edge of the cap is a band of silver fringe of short chains and small bells. At left and right side are narrow pendant strips of multi-colored cloth edged in black, and mounted with further repousse plaques, the lowest ones with simulated gems and pendant chains and "fringe" of scraps of silver. At back of cap is a wider red fabric band edged with a fringe of dark blue and red yarn, mounted with silver plaques, pendant chains with silver pieces, simulated gems, and a coin (unidentified - middle eastern?).
c ) Pendant of silver and simulated lapis lazuli and carnelian, shaped as a large inverted flat "spade" card suit. Central large oval flat red/orange "stone" of glass? (enamel?) within thin metal border or "cell" (French: cloisonne) surrounded by heart-shaped metal "cells" filled with glass or enamel creating a border of small circles of same material and blue "lapis" (glass or enamel?) triangles pointing outwards. Outer border of piece formed of same heart-shapes. The field of the pendant with inlaid(?) brass(?) abstract scrolling. Pendant surmounted by horizontal tube inlaid with same brass, forming suspension loop. Back is plain. Strung on thin black ribbon (modern addition)
d ) Necklace. Green cloth necklace, edged with black cloth tape and embellished with spaced stamped silver roundels. Button/buttonhole clasp. The necklace supports a massive silver pendant formed as a large triangle set with oval red glass cabochons, between two silver "club" shapes. Below the triangle and clubs is a horizontal silver square tube set with oval red cabochons, below which are four large inverted stylized "fleur-de-lis" forms, set with oval cabochons. From all lower parts hang long chains and large bells.
No labels/marks.
Center tube 10 1/4" wide; Main pendant 11 1/4" from suspension loop to lowest edge of pendant bells.

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Collections

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Texas Fashion Collection

The UNT Texas Fashion Collection is dedicated to the preservation and documentation of historically significant fashion, and serves as an educational and inspirational resource for students, researchers, and the general public. This vital resource is part of the UNT College of Visual Arts + Design.

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Creation Date

  • 1950/2000

Coverage Date

Added to The UNT Digital Library

  • March 7, 2014, 7:40 a.m.

Description Last Updated

  • June 14, 2021, 5:39 p.m.

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Past 30 days: 0
Total Uses: 19

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Festival ensemble, physical object, 1950/2000; (https://digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc277149/: accessed September 22, 2021), University of North Texas Libraries, UNT Digital Library, https://digital.library.unt.edu; crediting UNT College of Visual Arts + Design.

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