Slippers

Slippers

Date: 1890/1900
Creator: unknown
Description: Pair of lady's slippers of brown kid leather with jet beading. Designed with pointed toes, the uppers are of brown kid leather, heavily decorated with radiating patterns of jet beads, over toe, around sides and throughout openwork that decorates throat and sides of shoes. Originally had sewn-in ties across the instep. Lined in black leather. Soles of black leather. High heels are of modified French style, sometimes called "spool" style, with rounded sides and back, flaring to base, and with curved front. There are no marks or labels in the shoes. The brown ribbons in photographs are not original, are to hold the shoe closed in place of original ribbons, now missing.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Shoes

Shoes

Date: 1907
Creator: unknown
Description: Pair of white kid ladies' shoes. Styled with pointed-toes, the white kid leather upper has a vamp decorated with geometric and stylized foliate designs in crystal beads. The shoes secure across instep with single ribbon tie on each, creating a "peep" just above toes. Lined in white leather. Natural brown leather sole. Heel is of medium height, rounded at back and tapering slightly to base. Similar to what would become a Cuban heel. Maker's code stamped inside: "35-C 3021" Worn by Norma Tiemann at her marriage to Val L. Lehmann in Brenham, Texas in 1907.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Shoes

Shoes

Date: 1917-1918
Creator: unknown
Description: Pair of lady's boots or "High Button Shoes" of dark brown leather. The shoes, designed with pointed toes, lace closed along center front with laces 16 holes high. Embellished at toe with cut steel beads forming interlacing bands and lines. Medium height heels styled as a modified boulevard or Louis heel, with rounded sides and back, tapering to center and then flaring out again at base, and with curved front section. Sole of black leather. Lined in black leather and off-white fabric. Retailer's(?) stamp inside, partly illegible: "Famous / Paris, Tex." Hand-written notation on lining: "38-1 80364" Sold by Famous Shoe Store, Paris Texas (est. 1891). Worn by Kennie Holt Rucker in 1917-1918. Donated by Mary Helen Rucker to the Historical Collection (North Texas State University,Denton, Tex.). Transferred to the Texas Fashion Collection.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Jacket

Jacket

Date: 1870
Creator: Worth, Charles Frederick, 1826–1895
Description: Jacket of black silk satin. The jacket, formed as a basque bodice with typical close-fitting achieved by seaming, has extended front panels and is edged with ivory lace. The jacket is embellished with dark blue velvet and olive brown chenille appliques of floral and leaf forms and black jet beading. Lined in ivory silk satin. Photograph is from the exhibition Haute Couture - The Great Paris Designers, held at The Grace Museum, Abilene Texas, October 17 - December 30, 2000, and shows jacket as displayed with a period hat (Accession #: 1981.015.001) and skirt (Accession #: 1967.025.099).
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Calotte

Calotte

Date: 1955
Creator: Ere Nouvelle (New York, New York)
Description: Hat of black velvet and beading. The hat is styled as a calotte (also spelled "calot") of black velvet, with an irregular lower edge. Set around the calotte are 5 large tear-drop shaped rhinestones, 4 at front and 1 at back. Each stone is bordered by concentric bands of pearls, small rhinestones and gray tubular beads. The beading bands continue around the hat, linking the larger stones, and becomes the lower border of the hat. The hat is lined with black satin, and has an inner hatband of black grosgrain ribbon. A small stitched mark on the inner hatband indicates the front of the hat. Maker's label sewn to inner hatband: "Ere Nouvelle / New York / Reg. U.S. Pat. Off." Sewn to maker's label is size label: "22 / MSC"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Cocktail Hat

Cocktail Hat

Date: 1950
Creator: Stone, Irene
Description: Hat of beaded, printed silk. The cocktail hat is of silk printed in an abstract foliage design in greens, reds, purples, yellows, white, and brown. It is heavily beaded, with small pale green square beads, oblong dark green beads, oblong and circular white beads, and tan flat sequins. All beads appear to be wooden. The crown is formed as an irregular dome, and has no brim. The hat is lined in gold cloth, and has two small plastic combs attached to either side of the inside of the crown to help secure the hat to the wearer's head. Designer's label sewn inside crown: "Irene of New York". Retailer's label sewn inside crown: "Neiman-Marcus / Salon"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Beret

Beret

Date: 1955
Creator: Chez Henriette
Description: Hat of striped felt. The hat is formed as a "pancake beret" on a rigid, slightly curved frame. The crown is of felt with wide width-wise stripes of olive green and black. The edge is embellished with a swagged band of bronze and black beads which runs from just behind the midway point of the side of the hat, around the front, and to just behind the midway point on the other side of the hat. The interior of the hat is lined in black fabric, and there is an inner hatband of black grosgrain ribbon. Maker's label sewn to inner hatband: "Chez Henriette".
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Hatlet

Hatlet

Date: 1955
Creator: Carnegie, Hattie
Description: Hatlet of beaded velvet. The small, circular, slightly domed hatlet is of off-white velvet with printed scrolls and curves in greens, browns and blues. Over the surface of the hat are various beaded and sequined motifs and strings of beads. Across the back is a wide twisted green ribbon which crosses at back and has trailing ends. Lined in copper/reddish cloudy silk(?), and edged in green grosgrain ribbon. A small stitched mark on the ribbon indicates the front of the hat. At either side is attached a small plastic comb to secure hat to wearer's head. Designer's label sewn to inner green grosgrain ribbon: "Hattie Carnegie"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Hat

Hat

Date: 1955
Creator: Carnegie, Hattie
Description: Hat of burnt ocher/light brown felt. The hat is styled somewhat like a beret, with low, slightly domed oval crown. The crown is embellished with scattered beading, in a pattern of golden, clear, and purple beads in strings of four or five, and with scattered larger oval cabochon golden yellow "gems". The edge of the crown folds under at front, and folds back out at sides to form slight brim. Around the front half of the hat is attached a veil of black which is formed from two different designs of netting, sewn together. The upper veiling is of wide hexagonal mesh, while the lower veiling is a smaller hexagonal mesh, sewn to the upper with a scrolling brown thread forming loops and curves. The hat is unlined, with a brown grosgrain inner hatband at inside base of crown. Designer's label sewn to inner hatband: "Hattie Carnegie". Retailer's label sewn to inner hatband: "Chez Jeré / Shreveport, LA.". Paper merchandise tag stitched to inner hatband: Obverse: "7112 / DNHH"; Reverse: "Tortuise / 55.00 [marked out] / 27.50"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Hat

Hat

Date: 1927-1929
Creator: unknown
Description: Black nylon hat. Domed, cylindrical crown has an irregularly-shaped brim, very narrow at left side, extending out and down in back, very wide and turning up in a triangular section at right side, and extending outwards at front. The turned-up section is embellished with simulated jet beading in a stylized floral pattern. The hat is lined in black nylon. Stamped inside crown: "Patricia / Model Hats / New York and Paris"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
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