Jacket

Jacket

Date: 1870
Creator: Worth, Charles Frederick, 1826–1895
Description: Jacket of black silk satin. The jacket, formed as a basque bodice with typical close-fitting achieved by seaming, has extended front panels and is edged with ivory lace. The jacket is embellished with dark blue velvet and olive brown chenille appliques of floral and leaf forms and black jet beading. Lined in ivory silk satin. Photograph is from the exhibition Haute Couture - The Great Paris Designers, held at The Grace Museum, Abilene Texas, October 17 - December 30, 2000, and shows jacket as displayed with a period hat (Accession #: 1981.015.001) and skirt (Accession #: 1967.025.099).
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Shoes

Shoes

Date: 1915
Creator: unknown
Description: Pair of black peau de soie heeled shoes. Slightly pointed rounded toe, with an oval openwork area at the throat of the vamp which simulates a buckle. These "buckles" are set with simulated black jet and cut steel beads. The 2 3/8" modified French heel is covered in black peau de soie. Marked on leather sole: "VOLK"; Stamped inside right shoe: "VOLK / DALLAS"; Notation inside each shoe: "172 / 5931 / 2355"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Hatlet

Hatlet

Date: 1970
Creator: Green-Field, Benjamin B.
Description: Hatlet of white beadwork. Base of hatlet is an irregularly shaped openwork skullcap of stiffened white mesh completely covered in white beads. Surmounting the cap are three 3-dimensional bow forms made of white beads. Hatlet has black mesh veiling, with scattered pairs of white beads worked into some intersections. Cap lined with stiffened white mesh. At either side are attached small plastic combs to secure hatlet to wearer's head. Designer's label: "Bes-Ben / Made in Chicago" Gift of John C. Murphy, through the Chicago Historical Society.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Hatlet

Hatlet

Date: 1955
Creator: Green-Field, Benjamin B.
Description: Hatlet of orange beaded mesh. The openwork triangular hatlet is formed of stiffened strips of mesh covered in large and small orange beads, edged with double-rows of small orange beads. At each corner of the triangle are large similarly beaded and edged butterfly-shapes. Fine black veil. Underside of hatlet is of stiff mesh edged with narrow bands of velvet. Two plastic combs are attached to secure hat to wearer's head. Designer's label inside hat: "Bes-Ben / Made in Chicago". A second sewn-in label has hand-written number "613". Gift of John C. Murphy through the Chicago Historical Society.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Hatlet

Hatlet

Date: 1970
Creator: Green-Field, Benjamin B.
Description: Hatlet of red beads. Crown of the hatlet is composed of an irregular skullcap of stiffened red mesh covered with red beads. Set atop the the hatlet are three large e-dimentional "bow" shapes composed of the red beads. The hatlet has a red net veil. Under the skullcap are attached two small plastic combs to secure the hatlet to wearer's head. Designer's Label: "Bes-Ben / Made in Chicago" Gift of Mrs. John M. (Patricia) Wyle. Worn by Mrs. Joseph M. Finn of Chicago, Illinois.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Pillbox Hat

Pillbox Hat

Date: 1955
Creator: unknown
Description: Pillbox hat of beaded straw. The modified pillbox hat has a cylindrical crown of white straw embellished with tiny white beads sewn on in an all-over foliate design. Within the crown is an inner woven structure which extends slightly below the edge of the crown, having the effect of raising the hat slightly off of the head and giving space around it. The inner structure has an inner hatband of red grosgrain ribbon, and a white felt-covered wired structure to help secure the hat to the wearer's head. Label inside crown: "Marché Exclusive"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Hatlet

Hatlet

Date: 1955
Creator: Green-Field, Benjamin B.
Description: Hatlet of black beads. The triangular openwork crown is formed by strings of beaded material 1" wide with 9 rows of black beads. Set at each corner of the triangle is a large 3-dimensional butterfly shape of the same beaded material. The open center of the hatlet crown has wide-mesh net with 6-sided openings. Inside crown are two small brown plastic combs to help secure hat to wearer's head. Designer's label sewn inside crown: "Bes-Ben / Made in Chicago". Gift of Mrs. William O. Hunt, of Finders Keepers, Chicago, Illinois.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Hatlet

Hatlet

Date: 1960/1965
Creator: Green-Field, Benjamin B.
Description: Hatlet of beaded openwork. Hatlet in calot (also spelled "calotte") style formed as an irregularly shaped openwork skullcap of stiffened mesh completely covered in small brown beads. Around the lower edge of the skullcap are protruding sections, shaped as stylized lobed leaves, covered with same brown beads and with many stiffened loops of smaller brown beads. Hatlet lined in stiff brown mesh and edged with thin strip of brown velvet. Designer's label inside hatlet: "Bes-Ben / Made in Chicago". Gift of Mrs. William O. Hunt, of Finders Keepers, Chicago, Illinois.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Hatlet

Hatlet

Date: 1955
Creator: Green-Field, Benjamin B.
Description: Sculptural hatlet of white beads and floral plaques. The hatlet is formed of a 4 cm. wide strip of stiffened mesh that curves around the head and forms a modified figure 8, with an additional extending loop. The surface of the mesh is covered in circular plastic (?) plaques 3.5 cm. in diameter cast with a floral relief pattern. The space between the plaques and on the edges of the hatlet are covered in tiny white spherical beads. Inner side of the hatlet is lined in stiff white mesh and edged in a thin strip of off-white velvet, and has a section with a wider, larger velvet lining. Possibly a wedding headpiece. Designer's label inside hatlet: "Bes-Ben / Made in Chicago". Gift of Mrs. William O. Hunt, of Finders Keepers, Chicago, Illinois
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Skirt Suit

Skirt Suit

Date: unknown
Creator: Givenchy, Hubert de, 1927-
Description: Skirt suit of rose, blue and gold brocade. The ensemble consists of a jacket, skirt, and belt, all of the same "peacock eye" design brocade, of blue and gold on a rose pink ground. The hip-length jacket is a tailored shell with round neck and set-in full-length sleeves. It has a full-length center front opening which secures with a series of five snaps covered in rose-colored chiffon. The neckline, opening, cuffs, and hem are trimmed with a two lines of dark rose silk cord embellished with spiraled lines of red, gold, and blue bugle beads. The lines are 6cm. apart. The jacket is fully lined in rose colored silk, and has built-in shoulder pads. Sewn inside jacket at back collar is designer's label: "Givenchy", with a second label sewn underneath, which has a handwritten notation: "79461". The matching fitted skirt is above-the-knee length, with a 3.5 cm. wide waistband into which the skirt gathers. Zipper closure at left side, with two large hook-and-eyes in waistband. The brocade is lined in white chiffon, and there is an inner lining/half-slip of dark rose colored silk. There are no labels in the skirt. The belt is leather-backed, and faced with the same brocade. ...
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Dress

Dress

Date: 1975?
Creator: Victoria Royal Ltd.
Description: Evening dress of pale yellow silk chiffon with bead detailing. V-neckline in front creating the halter, with pieces draped from halter down and out to sides. The entire bodice is finely pleated and gathered, and has beaded panels which creates an empire waist. The beaded panels vary from narrow at center front to wide at sides, and meet at center back. The beading is white and silver beaded horizontal stripes on a mauve background. The skirt is formed by the chiffon being gathered into the beaded panels in many layers and falling to the floor. Dress has a matching lining and has a zipper down center back with hook-and-eye closures at top of zipper and at halter. Label in gown: "Victoria Royal Ltd. / Made In / British Crown Colony / of / Hong Kong".
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Dress

Dress

Date: 1920
Creator: unknown
Description: Dress of navy wool gabardine in two parts. The main body of the tubular-shaped dress is full-length, sleeveless, with a round neckline. It has decorative bead-work at upper bust, on back at shoulders and down spine, in a line from right hip down to hem, and around hem. The bead-work includes lines of red and clear beads, spirals and "bursts" of clear and red beads, circular ornaments of red beads, and a roundel at front to bottom right at hem of a scene of a wine jug against a blue, clear and green background. The dress has an opening from left shoulder to waist which is secured with a line of hidden snaps, and is decorated with nine cloth and plastic circular non-functioning buttons arranged in groups of three. The dress is unlined. The dress has with it a detachable cropped camisole of white cotton with center front hook-and-eyes closure and white elastic waistband. The sleeves of the camisole are of navy wool gabardine, bell-shaped, and match the dress. They are decorated with the same style bead-work as the dress, including lines of red and clear beads running from shoulders to wrist, clear and red beaded spirals and "bursts", and ...
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Handbag

Handbag

Date: 1910/1925
Creator: unknown
Description: Handbag of multi-colored glass beads of boldly colored, somewhat stylized floral design. Bronze frame cast with floral forms and openwork, and set with navy blue and green rhinestones. Roses on frame have remains of applied coloration. Suspension chain in rope form with spaced clusters of green and blue beads. Bag has fringe at bottom composed of loops of green and black faceted beads. Off-white satin lining, mostly deteriorated.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Calotte

Calotte

Date: 1964
Creator: Balenciaga, Cristóbal
Description: Calotte of beaded black satin. Evening hat in the form of a calotte (also spelled "calot"). The low, domed crown is made of segments of black satin over a core of woven straw. The surface is embellished with black plastic sequins and beads of various sizes. At top of crown is small squashed spheroid finial covered with a pattern of cylindrical and circular faceted black plastic beads. Inside lower edge of crown is black grosgrain ribbon band. Sewn behind band are three elastic loops to help secure hat to head of wearer. No labels.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Handbag

Handbag

Date: 1900/1909
Creator: unknown
Description: Handbag. Rectangular frame of cast openwork brass floral designs with traces of gilding. Ball and snap closure and gilt brass suspension chain. Bag is of dark purple crocheted silk, with three different types of beading. Area at frame is plain all-over beading of purple/bronze iridescent cut beads. Below this, and at bottom of bag is fringe of looped beading. The main body of the bag has vertical stripes of beads arranged in horizontal rows. Lined with bright purple silk, trimmed in gold cording. Contains a small gold kid leather purse embossed with a stylized thorn pattern.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Reticule

Reticule

Date: 1880/1916
Creator: unknown
Description: Reticule. Drawstring handbag/purse of black knit with openwork band along top through which drawstring is threaded. Running around center of bag are three horizontal bands of blue beads bordered by silver/gold lined beads. Lower part of the bag is completely covered by horizontal bands of silver/gold lined beads and blue beads. Bottom of bag with large sphere covered with blue beads from which hangs tassel of silver/gold lined bead loops. Unlined. Has been dated 1880-1890 or ca. 1916.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Ensemble - Dress and Jacket

Ensemble - Dress and Jacket

Date: 1980
Creator: Givenchy, Hubert de, 1927-
Description: Ensemble consisting of a dress and jacket. The floor-length evening dress is in ivory and beige brocade woven with a small floral motif throughout. The gown is strapless, and has an empire waist. The neckline rises slightly in front with a narrow "V" cut at center. There is a zipper closure at left side, with a hook-and-eye at top. Internal foundation with a separate zipper closure at left side, boning, bust pads, and two grosgrain ribbon bands with hook-and-eye closures. The gown is lined in dark ivory silk. The matching short jacket is of the same fabric, cut bolero style with long sleeves. Center front opening has one hook-and-eye closure at top of bust. The neckline, center front opening, hem, and cuffs are all trimmed in a band of dark brocaded material edged with faux pearls, gold braid, and coffee-colored rhinestones. The jacket is embellished throughout with floral and foliate forms in faux pearls, gold beads and gold braid. It is fully lined in ivory silk. Both garments have designer's label inside: "Givenchy / Made in / France"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Pumps

Pumps

Date: 1920
Creator: unknown
Description: Pumps of black satin and black kid leather. Vamp with cutwork in leather forming a modified sunray or comet design centered on circular metal button set with rhinestones. The cutwork is embellished with black jet beadwork. Louis XV style heels covered in black satin. Stamped inside one shoe in gold, partly illegible: "Kasson's / Knickerbocker / Cincinnati"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Ensemble - Jacket, Skirts and Blouse

Ensemble - Jacket, Skirts and Blouse

Date: 1991/1992
Creator: Brooks, Richard
Description: Ensemble of rose silk. The suit consists of a jacket, two skirts and a blouse. The jacket is made from a 1930's sari of pale pink silk embroidered with gold and silver threads, beads, and pink sequins in designs of vines, flowers and abstract line patterns. Jacket has a floating yoke and full leg-o-mutton sleeves with long narrow cuffs that have zipper closures. The jacket itself has a center front opening with no closure. The neckline, edges of closure, hem, and cuffs are edged in heavily beaded bands added by the designer. Designer's label sewn inside back at neck: "Richard Brooks". The blouse is of heavy pink silk, collarless, with round neckline. It is short-sleeved, with pleating at the shoulder. Vertical seaming on front and back for structure. There is a concealed center-back closure with snap at top and 5 clear plastic circular buttons down the length. The blouse is lined in a dark, dusty pink silk and has sewn-in shoulder pads. Designer's label is sewn inside back to the left of the opening: "Richard Brooks". The two skirts are are both of identical pink silk, matching the blouse, of identical construction. One is knee-length, and the other is full-length. ...
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Handbag

Handbag

Date: 1925
Creator: unknown
Description: Large Handbag. Rectangular gilt frame with ball/snap closure set with cabochon green stones. Body of bag formed of red, silver, grey, and black beads in a mosaic/Turkish carpet pattern. Bottom of bag with beaded fringe matching body of bag. Lined in pale peach satin with one pocket and attached small coin purse. Sewn into lining is woven tag "Made In France"; Marked on frame "Made In France".
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Handbag

Handbag

Date: 1910?
Creator: unknown
Description: Beaded handbag. Rectangular gilt metal frame with suspension chain and ball closure. Body of bag is covered with multi-colored glass beads forming a picture of a bird and flowers amid scrolling forms, same image on each side. Bottom of bag with blue beaded loops of fringe. Interior lining of blue satin, with attached circular mirror on a ribbon. European, either Paris or Vienna.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Dress

Dress

Date: 1960/1969
Creator: unknown
Description: Dress of printed silk with beads and sequins. Short dress of black silk is printed with a paisley design in yellow, red, and cream. The background is covered in heavy black beading and black sequins. The dress has a short standing collar and long set-in sleeves. There is a center back zipper from collar to hips. Fully lined in black fabric. Label of Dallas retailer inside back near collar on left side: "Marie Leavell"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Dress

Dress

Date: 1970/1979
Creator: unknown
Description: Dress of off-white / ivory wool knit. The form-fitting full-length sheath has a round neckline and short cap sleeves. The entire dress is covered with iridescent sequins, and is decorated at lower part with five bands of gold/copper sequins, 3 bands of rosettes composted of gold beads and pearls, and two bands of "garlands" with suspended pine-cone forms and diamond shapes of copper/gold sequins, gold bugle beads, and gold beads. Dress has zipper closure along center back. Label reads: "Gene Shelly's / Boutique Internationale / California / Hand Decorated in Hong Kong / 100% Wool"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Hat

Hat

Date: 1955
Creator: Carnegie, Hattie
Description: Hat of burnt ocher/light brown felt. The hat is styled somewhat like a beret, with low, slightly domed oval crown. The crown is embellished with scattered beading, in a pattern of golden, clear, and purple beads in strings of four or five, and with scattered larger oval cabochon golden yellow "gems". The edge of the crown folds under at front, and folds back out at sides to form slight brim. Around the front half of the hat is attached a veil of black which is formed from two different designs of netting, sewn together. The upper veiling is of wide hexagonal mesh, while the lower veiling is a smaller hexagonal mesh, sewn to the upper with a scrolling brown thread forming loops and curves. The hat is unlined, with a brown grosgrain inner hatband at inside base of crown. Designer's label sewn to inner hatband: "Hattie Carnegie". Retailer's label sewn to inner hatband: "Chez Jeré / Shreveport, LA.". Paper merchandise tag stitched to inner hatband: Obverse: "7112 / DNHH"; Reverse: "Tortuise / 55.00 [marked out] / 27.50"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
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