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  Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
 Decade: 1940-1949
 Collection: Texas Fashion Collection
Ensemble - Kutchi Group, Pashtun Peoples, Afghanistan

Ensemble - Kutchi Group, Pashtun Peoples, Afghanistan

Date: 1940/1960
Creator: unknown
Description: Ensemble - Kutchi Dress, Pashtun Peoples, Afghanistan. This assembled ensemble consists of: 1. Dress. Full-length. High neckline, slight V-shape. Front yoke/bib panel of fine needlework geometric shapes and patterns, in orange, purple, green, and blue. Front of bodice with four large embroidered rosettes of silver couching with orange silver/white, and black borders. Over-length, wide sleeves of patchwork of materials, including red, purple, and pink. Cuffs of heavy silver couching with central band of small circular mirrors in needlework frames. High, narrow waistband of silver/gold couching. Front of skirt formed of thin black fabric heavily gathered to form voluminous front panel. Wide band of red fabric lining inside of front panel at hem. Back of bodice formed of red cloth with vertical white stripes. Embroidered panels under arms. Back of skirt formed of upper panel of purple printed with blue and off-white flowers and leaves, heavily gathered into waistband. Lower panel of purple fabric, as full as upper panel. Black hem on back of skirt. 2. Headpiece of silver set with glass and plastic(?) rubies and emeralds, center plaque with glass segments simulating lapis and jade(?). Central circular plaque with central red circular glass "stone" surrounded by 6 alternating triangular green ...
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Evening Dress

Evening Dress

Date: 1945/1949
Creator: Adrian, Gilbert
Description: Evening dress consisting of jacket and skirt. A) Jacket. The fitted black velvet jacket is encrusted with gold braid/ribbon in a lattice/trellis pattern over the entire surface, with added buttons, cabochons, beads, etc. lavishly sewn over the surface. The jacket has a no collar, and short capped sleeves. From the natural waist flares a peplum. The jacket has a center front closure of hooks-and-eyes. Unlined, it has built-in shoulder pads. No label in jacket. B) Straight skirt is full-length, of heavy black crepe. Center back zipper closure with hook-and-eye at waistband. Designer's label inside skirt at side seam: "Adrian / Custom", along with a second label, typed on white grosgrain ribbon, sewn in: "Neiman Marcus 417 / Size 12".
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Evening Dress

Evening Dress

Date: 1940
Creator: Adrian, Gilbert
Description: Evening dress of black heavy crepe with rows of looped accents at neckline, left sleeve, left hip and on draped band below left hip. Two hanging tabs from right waistline. Sheath silhouette. Pointed collar with open slit. Long sleeves with small zippers at cuffs. Full length with vent at center front. Center back zipper closure. Designer's label: "Adrian / Original"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Evening Dress

Evening Dress

Date: 1948/1952
Creator: unknown
Description: Evening dress of champagne peau de soie. Princess style. Sweetheart neckline in front, with small horizontal pleats at front left and right princess seaming at upper part of bust; back neckline is low and rounded. 1-1/2 inch wide shoulder straps that split in front to form an inverted Y, with horizontal band of same fabric at dividing point. Natural waist. Skirt is below knee length, at at hips has three almost horizontal bias folds which extend to from hip center back and join to form bow; lower sash ends of the bow attach to skirt to form "bustle drape", giving added fullness. Attached net petticoat gathered to taffeta yoke; back zipper. Retailer's label at left side seam: "Neiman-Marcus"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Evening Dress

Evening Dress

Date: Autumn 1944
Creator: Copeland, Jo
Description: Evening dress of wine-colored hammered rayon satin. Wide, bateau neckline trimmed with wine colored ostrich feathers, sequins and bows of matching fabric. Short sleeves. Street length. Ruching at center front of bodice and at center back seam below waist. Left side zipper. Unlined; shoulder pads. Retailer's label at left side seam: "Neiman-Marcus / Dallas" With matching tie belt, 1 1/4" wide.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Evening Dress

Evening Dress

Date: 1940
Creator: Rentner, Maurice
Description: Evening dress of rose/pale pink/pale mauve crepe-back satin charmeuse. Inspired by Chinese Cheongsam-style garments, the dress is full-length, slim fitted, with slight standing collar fastened with hidden hook & loop. Sleeveless, the dress has front opening from throat to slightly below right shoulder, secured with three large rhinestone set circular brass(?) buttons. Very slightly raised waist with triangular "flap", open and hanging down from center front to right hip. From just below hip to center front at hem is secondary opening, with 7 buttons matching bodice. Hem slightly scalloped at front overlap corners, and at right side. Left side underarm zipper. Combined designer's/retailer's label inside bodice: "Neiman-Marcus dallas / Maurice Rentner" With tie belt of same fabric, 3/4" wide.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Evening Gown

Evening Gown

Date: 1948/1951
Creator: James, Charles
Description: Evening gown of bright brown satin and black velvet. Form fitted bodice of brown satin narrows at waist and dips to a center front seam, where fabric is gathered and drapes down to full-length skirt; black velvet skirt surrounds CF fabric and creates a fullness at hips. Handwritten cloth tape label in skirt: "Charles James 47" Accompanied by a brassier, not shown in photo. Designer's Label: "This is an original / Madame Adrienne / 35 other pat. pend. / pat. 3072879"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Evening Gown

Evening Gown

Date: 1941~
Creator: unknown
Description: Evening gown of rose pink silk. Full-length, sleeveless, with sweetheart neckline and thin satin cord double-straps at each shoulder. Bodice with fan-shaped radiating seaming from center line outwards over each cup, but not meeting at center point - left side starting higher than right. Raised waist, into which skirt is gathered. From sides, towards front, and down along sides of front is "fin" of same fabric, which extends out, with slight "ruffle" effect to edge. Center back zipper closure. Part-lined in very pale peach/pink fabric (bust, upper abdomen, etc. Retailer's label inside skirt at side seam, partly printed, partly hand-written: "Bergdorf-Goodman / Fifth Ave., New York / Mrs. R. Lloyd / Date: 10/13/41 No. 17313"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Evening Shoes

Evening Shoes

Date: 1941~
Creator: Haggerty, Nancy
Description: Pair of evening shoes of cream satin and gold leather trim. Designed as modified heeled sandals, the shoes have a rounded, open toe, and toe-box formed of four rounded "petals" of satin that rise up from the sides and join at top of toe-box. The "petals" are edged in gold leather, and have cut-outs between. Open sides, and straps around ankles and instep secured by small rectangular gold-colored buckles set with small rhinestones. Wide strap at back of heel. Satin covered heel is a modified boulevard heel, with rounded sides, slight waist, and curved front. Designer's stamp, left and right shoe: "Nancy Haggerty / Shoes Inc / New York" Handwritten in both shoes: "820X - Gold / 4 1/2 C / X6297"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
[Fashion Design]

[Fashion Design]

Date: 1945/1960
Creator: Wolff, Lilli
Description: Original fashion design by Lilli Wolff. Possibly for a costume, of a female figure with gold-accented dress and flowing pink belt/sash represented on sketch by an applied cut-out piece of paper. Drawing is overlaid with black mesh, and mounted on larger board. Believed to have been done between 1945 and 1960.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design