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  Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
 Collection: Texas Fashion Collection
Ensemble - Cape, Blouse, and Dress
Ensemble. A) Cape of black and white windowpane check wool. Double-breasted with 8 plastic round domed buttons and 4 bound buttonholes. Armhole slits are double welted with pockets. Notched collar. Lined in ivory silk. B) Blouse of black silk noil. Short, triple-seamed raglan sleeves. Paneled front. Two off-angle welted breast pockets. Center back zipper with hook & eye. Center front placket, rounded at bottom, with hidden zipper and hook & loop. Slit sides. Lined in black silk. C) Dress. Upper portion is black top silk lining for blouse. Sleeveless with wide, rounded neckline. Center back zipper with hook & eye extends to skirt portion of dress. Lower skirt portion is A-lined, attached at high waist and is of matching black and white windowpane check. Black grosgrain ribbon petersham with hook & eye. Lined in ivory silk. No labels in garment.
Ensemble - Cape, Blouse, and Skirt
Three-piece ensemble of navy blue wool tweed with white silk threads. A) Cape. Falls below hips. Constructed with applied bands or plackets of self giving the appearance of pleats. No collar; rounded neckline with modified suspender self bands at neck that extend down to waist and secure to the pair of buttons on the waistband of the skirt. Padded shoulders. Lined in white satin. Remains of label, mostly illegible, in pieces, covered with crepeline. "65-67 Champ ........ Paris" B) Blouse of white satin. Collarless with piped, rounded, high neckline and string tie at front (decorative). Long, set-in sleeves gathered into cuffs with single button and tailored buttonhole at each cuff. Front with wide center and two narrow vertical pin-tucks. Center back closure with 7 circular shell/mother-of-pearl buttons and tailored buttonholes. No labels in shirt. C) Skirt. Street-length, A-line with 1-1/2 inch waistband. Two pairs of circular dark blue buttons on waistband for securing "suspenders". Left side zipper with four sets of hook-and-eyes (one missing). Simulated pleats, sewn down, with vertical strips of same fabric sewn to skirt giving illusion of further pleating. Unlined. Label on waistband to left of zipper: "Made In France"
Ensemble - Cape Coat and Dress
Two-piece wool tweed cape/coat street ensemble. a) Cape coat of wool tweed in three shades of plum. Long, single-breasted coat with cape attached at shoulders. Four button closure with alternating bound buttonholes and supplemented with two hook & eyes. Two small double welt pockets on yoke and two larger double welt pockets at waistline. Coat dress portion is tailored at waistline with 3/4 length sleeves. Small turndown collar. Lined in rust brown colored silk faille. Designer's label at inside back neckline: "Adrian / Original" b) Straight skirt of matching wool tweed. Unlined. Zipper closure.
Ensemble - Coat and Dress
Ensemble of printed silk. The full-length dress is of silk with a printed design of abstract flower forms in red, blue, purple, white, yellow and green on a black ground. It has a rounded neckline and long sleeves which have fabric covered snaps at the wrists. The bodice is seamed and fitted, and the skirt is slightly A-line, flaring to hem. Center back closure, top third is hook-and-eyes, the lower two-thirds is a zipper. The dress is fully lined in black silk. Designer's label sewn inside bodice near waist: "Givenchy". Underneath label is a second label with handwritten notation "48245". The matching coat is of the same print on a heavier weight silk. It is full-length, with a standing collar which has internal wiring for support. The sleeves are full-length, and it has a center front opening which secures with a single fabric-covered snap just below collar. The coat is unlined. Designer's label sewn inside coat at right near waist: "Givenchy". Underneath label is a second label with handwritten notation "48246" This ensemble was made for the donor to wear to the wedding of Maria del Carmen Martinez-Bordiu y Franco, (1951- ) granddaughter of General Franco, to Don Alfonso, Duke of Anjou and Cádiz (1936 - 1989), son of Infante Jaime of Spain, Duke of Segovia and grandson of King Alfonso XIII of Spain. The wedding took place in the chapel of El Pardo Palace, Madrid, on 8th March 1972. The donor noted: "It was designed by Monsieur Givenchy especially for me. Balenciaga was alive, though he had closed his house, and Givenchy consulted with him on this outfit. You can see Balenciaga's line to it. ... Givenchy had the two distinct fabrics printed in the same design -- one for dress and one for coat. He said it must look like the light shining through the stained glass windows of the Chapel." The ensemble has a matching pair of shoes by Roger Viver made of fabric in the same print.
Ensemble - Coat and Dress
a) Cocktail dress of dark green jacquard silk with black field in a pebble motif. Fitted bodice is sleeveless with slight scoop neckline. Gathered, A-line skirt with inseam pockets. Knee-length. Skirt lined in black silk and bodice partially lined at neck with black organza. Left shoulder separates with 5 snaps. Centered, left side zipper with strapped hook & eye. Designer's label at inside back neckline: "EISA" b) Coat of self fabric has sewn down, drawstring neckline. Three-quarter length raglan sleeves. Open front; knee-length. Fully lined in black taffeta with interlining of stiff netting for fullness. Designer's label at inside back neckline: "EISA"
Ensemble - Coat and Dress
Ensemble consisting of a coat and dress. The mid-length coat is of knit with a printed pattern of blue geometric shapes on a bright red ground, and has long sleeves and moderate collar with rounded points. Center-front opening with 4 square dark blue plastic buttons. Across back of coat is an attached belt of the same fabric, with buttons at each side, but does not extend around to the front. Fully lined in dark blue fabric. The mid-length dress is of the same fabric, and has short sleeves, a rounded neckline, and flares slightly to hem. The dress has a center-back zipper closure and is lined in the same fabric as the coat. Coat has a single retailer's label: "Lou Lattimore / Dallas" inside back at collar. Dress has slightly smaller version of same label, sewn inside at left of zipper near neckline.
Ensemble - Coat and Dress
A) Coat of light brown leather printed with dark brown "squiggles". Full-length, double-breasted, with two vertical rows of three each circular brown plastic buttons and hidden snaps at top. Long raglan sleeves. Two patch pockets on front with decorative flaps. Lined in light brown silk(?). Designer's label at inside back collar: "Adele Simpson", with written annotation "1008". B) Dress with matching scarf, of light tan jersey with printed dark brown "squiggles" matching the rest of ensemble. Mid-length, sheath style. Roll collar with slit through which scarf threads. Long sleeves with cuffs having two hidden snaps each. Center back zipper with hook-and-eye at top. Lined in peach silk crepe(?). With wide belt of leather matching the coat, the square buckle covered in same leather. Designer's label at inside back on left: "Adele Simpson". Stamped on reverse of belt: "Z 1095"
Ensemble - Coat and Dress
Street ensemble consisting of a navy blue wool coat and a dress. A) Coat of navy whipcord wool. Single breasted with 6 circular black plastic buttons and bound buttonholes. Long, set-in sleeves. Street length. Peter Pan collar of black sheepskin. High rise waistline. Lined in black silk. Combined designer/retailer label at center back neckline: "Neiman-Marcus Dallas / Traina-Norell" B) Dress with black crepe back satin bodice and navy whipcord wool straight cut skirt. Long, narrow cut, set-in sleeves with zippered cuffs. Wide jewel neckline. Street length. Empire waist with slight gathering and 1/2" band at base of bodice. Center back zipper with hook & eye. Petersham at waistline of 3/4" black grosgrain ribbon with hook & eye closure. Unlined.
Ensemble - Coat and Skirt
Ensemble. Coat and matching skirt (not shown) of woven upholstery-weight fabric with stylized floral and geometric designs in burgundy and blue/black on a creme ground. Coat is mid-length, flaring slightly to hem, with long sleeves and a center-front opening. The opening, hem, and cuffs are all trimmed in a curly "lamb's wool" died burgundy to match the pattern. Fully lined in burgundy silk(?) With separate sash/belt. Labels in coat: Designer's label "Anne Klein" with lion logo; Dallas, Texas retailer's label "Marie Leavell". Not shown is skirt in matching fabric, mid-length, with no trim.
Ensemble - Coat and Skirt
Ensemble of red wool knit coat with matching skirt. A) Coat of deep red wool knit. Double-breasted with 10 gold round buttons and bound buttonholes. Closure is reinforced with a large covered snap at inside neckline. Stand-up, mandarin style collar. Four patch pockets with flaps each have a smaller gold tone matching button with bound buttonhole. Below knee length. Long sleeves have two gold tone matching buttons at cuffs with bound buttonholes. Lined in red silk taffeta. Designer's label at inside back neckline: "Norell" Retailer's label at inside right: "Rich's / Specialty Shop" B) Skirt of deep red wool knit. Below knee length; A line. Left side zipper with large hook & eye on one-inch waistband. Lined in red silk taffeta. Label at inside front waist band: "Front".
Ensemble - Coat, Blouse, and Skirt
Ensemble. A) Coat of brown and white felted wool. Knee-length or longer, long set-in sleeves. Center front opening with 5 large circular brown plastic buttons with bound buttonholes. Main body of coat of pale brown and white check design, with cuffs, collar, and lower band of coat (about hips to hem) of light brown. Light brown and white check self tie belt. Side slit pockets. Lined in pale taupe. Designer's label at center back neckline: "Norell" Hand-written label just above designer's label: "Deborah 929" B) Blouse of cream wool jersey. Long sleeves, high standing collar. Center back zipper closure running almost entire length of garment, from top of collar to about 3" above hem. Hook & eye at top of collar. Collar lined in satin, the rest of the blouse is unlined. Not hemmed. Hand-written label sewn in at neckline: "Deborah 929" C) Skirt of brown wool tweed. Mid-length; slight A-line. Narrow, 1-1/2" waistband. Fully lined in brown silk(?). Center back zipper closure with large hook & eye on waistband. Hand-written label "Deborah 1929". D) Belt of brown leather with wide square, self-covered buckle. Two inches wide. Belt is attached to skirt with inner bands of leather to which loops from the skirt are sewn. Stamped on reverse: "26 Norman Norell 3736".
Ensemble - Coat, Blouse, and Skirt
Ensemble. A) Coat of cream and taupe/brown herringbone wool. 3/4 length with deep fold-down, rounded collar. Four patch pockets with button flaps (2 at chest level and 2 at hip level). Double-breasted with 10 round-top taupe buttons and bound buttonholes. Long set-in sleeves with 5 button closing down sleeve ends. Lined in taupe silk. Designer's label at center back neckline: "Norell" Retailer's label at right inside seam: "Neiman-Marcus" Retailer's label at left inside seam: "Rich's / Specialty Shop" B) Skirt of cream and taupe/brown herringbone wool. Top of skirt is 4" band of silk; no waistband. Left side zipper with hook & eye. Knee-length. Lined in dark gray silk. Designer's label in lining near hem: "Norman Norell / New York" Union Label: "702651" Handwritten style number label: "18877 205-8". C) Blouse of brown wool knit. Long, fitted sleeves with zippers at sleeve ends. Stand-up, mandarin style collar. Zipper closure at center back.
Ensemble - Coat Dress and Skirt
Ensemble consisting of a charcoal gray wool tweed coat dress and skirt. A) Street dress of charcoal gray wool tweed. Center front opening with eight large, circular, black plastic buttons and bound buttonholes. Three quarter raglan sleeves. Turndown collar. Yoked shoulders slightly gathered in back. Below knee length. Lined in black silk faille. Retailer's label at inside back neckline: "Neiman-Marcus" B) Skirt with waist panel of black silk and lower panel of charcoal gray wool tweed. Skirt is slightly gathered where waist panel meets lower panel. Overall effect is of a straight skirt. Center back opening with two hook & eyes on waistband as closure. Lower portion of skirt is lined in same black silk as waist panel. Retailer's label on inside center back seam of lining: "Neiman-Marcus"
Ensemble - Coat, Skirt, and Blouse
Ensemble consisting of: A) Dress coat of camel color wool gabardine. Single breasted with four circular, ivory, plastic buttons with bound buttonholes. Street length. Notched collar. Large pleat down center back. Long set-in sleeves with band cuffs having a single matching button with bound buttonhole. Four patch pockets with flaps - two smaller pockets at breast and two larger pockets at hips. Each pocket is trimmed with a functioning, smaller matching button with bound buttonhole. Lined in tan silk. Designer's label at center back neckline: "Norell" Retailer's label below designer's label: "Sakowitz / Houston" Union label at left armhole. B) Belt of cream colored leather. 3/4" wide with rectangular buckle covered in same. Reverse stamped: "14 611" C) Shell blouse of ivory silk knit. Sleeveless with jewel neckline. Center back zipper with hook & eye. Lined in cream silk satin D) Skirt of camel color wool gabardine. Slightly A-line; knee length. Left side zipper closure with two large hook & eyes on waistband. Lined in tan silk. Designer's label on inside left seam of lining: " Norman Norell / New York" Handwritten style number label: "24787-611-14" Union label below designer's label.
Ensemble - Coat, Tunic, and Pants
Ensemble consisting of: a) Coat of silver lame with jeweled buttons lined in same black wool jersey as dress. b) Tunic top of black wool jersey. Sleeveless with two side slit pockets. Closure at back with two snaps and self-covered buttons. Lined in black silk. c) Pants of heavy black wool jersey. Double side zippers. Designer Label: "EISA"
Ensemble - Day Dress and Jacket
Ensemble of multi-color abstract/impressionistic foliage in green, orange, blue, lavender, and gold, consisting of: a) Day dress in sheath style, sleeveless, with a wide, rounded neckline. Center back zipper, and fully lined in royal blue acetate. Maker's tag towards bottom of zipper: "Order No. 2666 / Style 984 / Size 6 / Remarks" b) Jacket. Reaching slightly below waist-length, the jacket has a wide rounded neckline and elbow length sleeves. The center front opening secures with 3 black crocheted buttons and bound buttonholes, supplemented with a large covered snap at neckline. Lined in navy acetate. Designer's label under right armhole: "Tiffeau & Busch Ltd. / New York" The ensemble’s fabric is a blend of 95% cotton and 5% rayon in a linen weave.
Ensemble - Dress, and Belt
B) Shift style dress of black wool. Short set-in sleeves. Stand up collar. Below knee length. Side welt pockets and four belt loops of self. Center back zipper with hook & eye. Lined in black silk. Retailer's label at center back neckline: "Sakowitz / Houston" C) Belt of black leather. 3/4" wide with rectangular buckle covered in self. Stamped on back "12 127"
Ensemble - Dress and Bolero
Ensemble. A) Bolero jacket is of red-orange with long sleeves. The cuffs, mandarin collar, hem, and center-front opening are edged with a wide band of off-white fur (fox or mink?). The jacket is decorated with closely-sewn rhinestones. The jacket is fully lined in cream fabric, and has a single hook-and-eye closure near throat. The jacket has no labels. B) Dress is of ivory wool, full-length, and sleeveless with a scoop-neck. Slightly A-line, with a slit at left side from hem up 18". Neckline is lower in back than front, and there is a center back zipper closure with hook-and-eye at top. The dress is fully lined in cream fabric. Designer's label in dress at side seam: "Norman Norell / New York". C) Wide belt of ivory wool, with lengthwise parallel stitching and large fabric-covered rectangular buckle. No labels on belt.
Ensemble - Dress and Bolero Jacket
Evening ensemble in orange and taupe crepe. The sleeveless, full-length dress is of taupe crepe, and has a "V" neckline in front and a deep "V" in back. Around high waist is a wide band of orange crepe outlined in gold braid and oval simulated pearls. The band is heavily beaded in faux coral and turquoise beads in various patterns and floral motifs. The bodice of the dress gathers into the front of the band, and has a zipper and hook-and-eyes closure at left side. The Bolero jacket is of the orange crepe. The cropped jacket has a rounded neckline and long sleeves. The neckline, center front opening, and lower hem is heavily beaded to match the band on the dress, with added faux turquoise beading in floral forms on the front panels of the jacket. No labels in either garment.
Ensemble - Dress and Coat
Ensemble consisting of two pieces: A) Dress of gray striped cashmere with scoop neckline and long sleeves with rolled hem and edges; wide, horizontal stripes of alternating gray and light gray; tunic-length. B) Coat of discs of laminated news clippings sewn on white jersey knit with wide silver fox trim at neckline, opening, and cuffs; lined in champagne satin; mid-length.
Ensemble - Dress and Coat
Ensemble A) Coat of cream and orange wool gabardine. Approximately knee-length cream wool coat, with rounded neckline. Asymmetrical front opening set to left of center with 5 large circular white ceramic or plastic buttons with bound buttonholes. Long sleeves with orange cuffs buttoning with two matching buttons. Three orange flap pockets - two on right, one on left - with bound slit pocket under flap. Collar, opening, cuffs, and pocket flaps of orange wool gabardine. Lined in cream silk crepe. Designer's label inside at back collar: "Norell". Retailer's label at inside right seam: "Esther Wolf / Houston" B) Dress of bright orange wool gaberdine. Knee-length, with rounded neckline. Sleeveless. Bust darts. Wide straps. Left shoulder with 5 hook-and-eyes closure. Left side zipper at bodice, and second zipper and three hook and eyes at skirt. Skirt slightly gathered at natural waistline. Side seam pockets. Lined in orange silk. Designer's label at inside skirt lining seam: "Norman Norell / New York" Union Label near designer's label. Care label inside at left side seam: "DO NOT USE STEAM IRON" Small label at inside front neckline: "FRONT"
Ensemble - Dress and Coat
Ensemble consisting of two pieces: A) Trench coat; little black slip dress laminated within clear plastic trench coat; slip dress has spaghetti straps, and lace trim at upper bodice and hem; trench coat has double breasted front opening; notched collar; buckles at wrists; slanted pocket lapels at hips with no pockets. Designer's label molded into plastic: "Gaultier / Pairs" B) Dress of pale pink chiffon with shadowing, and sequin and bead embellishments which create a realistic “nude woman" figure; sleeveless; full-length. No label in dress.
Ensemble - Dress and Coat
Dress and coat of peacock feathers. The short, sleeveless dress is entirely covered with peacock breast feathers, accented with a 1" band of blue cording and chenille trim at neckline and with blue cord spaghetti straps. It is fully lined with navy polyester. The long, sleeveless coat is covered with peacock herl / flue feathers. It has a round neckline, and no closure. These pieces are part of a larger ensemble, consisting of a total of 9 pieces decorated with peacock and/or golden pheasant feathers. Worn to the Emmy Awards ceremony in Los Angeles, California, April 1976.
Ensemble - Dress and Coat
(At Left) Evening ensemble of brown silk shantung. The camisole is sleeveless, with a boat neckline. Center back closure with 10 small circular buttons covered with matching fabric. The blouse is lined in dark brown silk, and has an inner structure of net and metal boning. The understructure extends below the top to give structure to the skirt. The inner net and boning layer has a center back closure of 14 hook-and-eyes, matching along same line as outer closure. The skirt is of matching materials, A-line, below-the-knee length. It has a 2" waistband decorated with horizontal ruching. Center-back zipper closure with two hook-and-eyes in waistband. The skirt has an attached black rayon gorgette underslip, and an attached black nylon petticoat. The petticoat has a horsehair braid incorporated in the hem for stiffening. The matching swing coat is calf length, with a rolled collar and short sleeves. It is constructed with several layers of organza for structure and a tuck panel around the coat for decoration and flounce. Lined in brown silk. There are no labels in the garment. Photograph is from the exhibition "Haute Couture - The Great Paris Designers", held at The Grace Museum, Abilene Texas, October 17 - December 30, 2000, and shows suit as displayed. From the original collection of the Dallas Museum of Fashion, which later became the Texas Fashion Collection.
Ensemble - Dress and Coat
Ensemble. A) Brown sheath dress of lace with floral motif, heavily hand beaded with tiny brown beads. Mid-length, scooped neckline, deeper in back. Sleeveless, with narrow straps. Slightly shaped hem. Inner brown satin lining sheath. Design house's label inside: "Mingolini Gugenheim / Piazza di Spagna 9-91- Roma" B) Brown sheer organza coat, mid-length, shawl collar, center front opening fastened by belt. mid-length sleeves. Leather belt built into waistline, covered with organza, the hook buckles covered in brown beading as dress.
Ensemble - Dress and Coat
Ensemble of blue heathered wool herringbone knit. A) Dress of blue heathered wool herringbone knit with bodice of black jersey knit. Short sleeves. 1 1/2" wide mandarin collar. Center back zipper closure with self-covered button and buttonhole on collar at back. Skirt is street length with slight A-line. Unlined skirt. No labels in dress. B) Fitted jacket of of blue heathered wool herringbone knit. Long sleeves with cuffs of black Persian lamb. V-neckline trimmed in black Persian lamb. Left side closure with two circular black metal buttons at shoulder and four matching button on left side seam. Lined in black silk crepe. Combined designer/retailer label at center back neckline of jacket: "Neiman-Marcus Dallas / Traina-Norell"
Ensemble - Dress and Coat
Ensemble consisting of green leather jacket and green and black striped knit dress with green leather belt. The sheath-style street-length dress is of wool jersey with a knitted pattern of horizontal green and black stripes. It has very short sleeves and a wide boat neckline, and is unlined. The dress has an accompanying green leather belt that ends in fringe. The street-length coat is of matching green leather, with long sleeves and tuxedo collar that extends to lower hem. The center-front opening has no closures, and there is a welt pocket at each side seam. The coat is lined in the same fabric the dress is made from, and faces the tuxedo collar and opening. There are no designer labels in the garments, and the coat has retailer's label: "Neiman-Marcus / Trophy Room".
Ensemble - Dress and Jacket
Ensemble consisting of a dress and jacket. The floor-length evening dress is in ivory and beige brocade woven with a small floral motif throughout. The gown is strapless, and has an empire waist. The neckline rises slightly in front with a narrow "V" cut at center. There is a zipper closure at left side, with a hook-and-eye at top. Internal foundation with a separate zipper closure at left side, boning, bust pads, and two grosgrain ribbon bands with hook-and-eye closures. The gown is lined in dark ivory silk. The matching short jacket is of the same fabric, cut bolero style with long sleeves. Center front opening has one hook-and-eye closure at top of bust. The neckline, center front opening, hem, and cuffs are all trimmed in a band of dark brocaded material edged with faux pearls, gold braid, and coffee-colored rhinestones. The jacket is embellished throughout with floral and foliate forms in faux pearls, gold beads and gold braid. It is fully lined in ivory silk. Both garments have designer's label inside: "Givenchy / Made in / France"
Ensemble - Dress and Jacket
Ensemble consisting of a dress and jacket of brown and white printed silk plaid or tartan. The waist-length jacket has a turn-down collar and wrist-length sleeves. It is single-breasted with a center front opening with four large circular brown plastic buttons and piped buttonholes. The jacket is fully lined in off-white silk. Designer's label located inside below center back of collar: "Made in / France / Givenchy". The matching dress is mid-length, to just below the knee, with round neck and princess seaming. It is sleeveless, and has box pleats at lower part of skirt. There is a zipper closure at left side. The dress is lined with off-white silk throughout with the exception of the box pleated area. Designer's label at inside side seam near right armhole: "Givenchy".
Ensemble - Dress and Jacket
Ensemble of oatmeal colored wool tweed: a) Jacket of beige and black wool tweed with V-neckline with standard notched collar and wide lapels; short, princess seams; 3/4 length, set in, two piece sleeves; double breasted opening with four round, plastic, beige buttons and two bound buttonholes supplemented by single large covered snap inside lap at waist; fully lined in beige silk. Label stitched inside back neck below collar. b) Dress of same; sleeveless; falling just below the knee; deep rounded neckline; empire waist seam; straight skirt has slight gathers in front; left side underarm zipper closure supplemented by single hook&eye closure; folded hem; armhole and neck facings; brassiere strap keepers snap inside shoulders; unlined.
Ensemble - Dress and Jacket
Ensemble of windowpane plaid woven polyester blend(?) in white and pink, yellow and green neon. A) Jacket. With turndown collar and short sleeves, the jacket has a center front opening secured with 3 hook-and-eyes and three large white braid frogs. Lined in white polyester. Designer's label sewn in at inside back collar: "Elinor Simmons / for / Malcolm Starr" Origin label: "Made in the British / Crown Colony of Hong Kong" Size label: "12" B) Dress of matching fabric. Knee- to street-length, the dress is sleeveless with a standing collar. Slightly A-lined with princess seaming and two patch pockets at front. Center back opening with hooks-and-eyes at top and zipper below. Labels are the same as in jacket.
Ensemble - Dress and Jacket
Ensemble of navy blue . Jacket. Cropped, single breasted jacket has rounded neckline and no lapels, to allow bow of dress to show. Center front closure of 3 self-covered buttons with bound buttonholes. Long sleeves with double row of snaps around each cuff, for missing cuffs. Lined in blue silk. Designer's label at inside back collar: "George Halley / New York" Retailer's label at right inside near buttons: "Bonwit Teller" Union label and side label at left side seam. Size 6. Dress. Knee-length or slightly longer, with rounded neckline with large blue satin bow at throat. Sleeveless, with wide straps. Bodice seamed, with slightly raised waist into which A-line skirt is gathered. Side slit pockets at hips. Center back zipper. Around neckline are a series of 5 self-covered snaps along left side, and evidence of removed stitches for a collar on right side. Lined in black, with dark mauve band near inner hem. Designer's label at inside left by zipper: "George Halley / New York"
Ensemble - Dress and Sandals
Ensemble: A) Dress of blues and black metallic knit, and ivory open-woven wool/ cashmere knit with long sleeves with deep armhole; scoop neckline; lined in off-white, fine wool jersey; knee-length. No label in dress. B,C) Sandals of royal blue satin accented with striped bands of black satin; open-toe; 4 ½” spike heel and ankle straps with blue ribbon bow at back; size 38. Designer's label: "Nina Ricci / Made in Italy"
Ensemble - Dress and Skirt
Dress ensemble of red lace with dark brown and metallic gold embroidery in floral design. A) Dress. Calf length with rolled collar. Four-snap closure down center front. Elastic waistline. Long straight sleeves with band cuffs and snap closure. Scalloped hem. Unlined. Designer's label at center back neckline: "Miss Dior / Made in France" B) Skirt of red silk. Straight with 1" waistband. Center back closure of covered hook & eye on waistband and 2 snaps. Evidence of four removed darts. C) Belt of self-covered leather; 2" wide. Gold circle buckle with two hooks and three pairs of grommets for closure.
Ensemble - Dress and Stole
Ensemble. a) Dress of white linen. Bias cut bodice with one shoulder strap on left with 1/2" tie of self. Right side zipper. Slightly gathered skirt; below knee length. Lined in cream silk crepe. Combined designer's/retailer's label: "Norman Norell for Neiman-Marcus" b) Stole wrap of red silk linen with white linen on reverse. Rectangular, 33 cm x 146 cm.
Ensemble - Dress, Belt, and Shoes
Ensemble: A) Dress of wax coated metallic Bordeaux. Strapless, the heavy-weight fabric is stiffened and crinkled with fold accents; top spreads outward along neckline; dress has fitted under-structure with boning; mid-length; fully lined in maroon silk satin; side zip-closures. Designer's label: "Dolce & Gabbana / Made in Italy" Handwritten label: "POR F6A83T/R0226" B,C) 2 corset belts of silver metal with black lace-up closure at back and 2 locks with keys each at front; flat head screw accents. Each lock engraved with designer's label: "Dolce & Gabbana" D,E) Pumps of silver patent leather with pointed toe. Around lower section of toe box and heel are a line of simulated flat head screw accents. High spike heel. Size 39. Designer's label inside: "Dolce & Gabbana / Made in Italy" Stamped on sole: "Vero Cuoio / Made in Italy" "DG" "39"
Ensemble - Dress, Bodice, and Stole
Ensemble of wine red linen, consisting of: A) Dress of wine red linen. Jumper-style, the seamed bodice has a wide, rounded neckline and is sleeveless. The skirt gathers slightly into the waist, which dips slightly to hips. Two slit pockets at side skirt seams just below waist. Center back opening, with 5 large circular wine red plastic buttons, a hook-and-eye at waist, two hidden snaps at neckline, and two hidden snaps below waist. Fully lined in red silk. Designer's label: "Norman Norell / New York" B) Under-bodice of wine red silk and wine red linen. Cropped bodice of silk with low, rounded neckline, and center front opening with 5 hook-and-eyes. Short sleeves of wine red linen to match dress. No labels in under-bodice. C) Stole of matching fabric. 50" x 12" rectangle, formed as a tube. No labels in shawl. Size 10 or 12. Note: Outer dress can be worn with or without under-bodice, giving the dress the appearance of being either sleeved or sleeveless.
Ensemble - Dress, Jacket, and Muff
Evening ensemble of golden olive green lightweight wool twill: A) Short jacket. No collar, center front opening with 4 hook-and-loop closures. Back has section of bloused fabric giving the effect of a faux hood hanging back. Wide bands of decoration on front, yoke, and on faux "hood" of back, in the form of golden vines of gold braid and leaves and flowers of gold and pearl beads. Fully lined in olive silk crepe. Label at center back inside neckline: "Milgrim". B) Full length evening dress of matching fabric. Sleeveless, wide straps. Moderate neckline with "bow" effect at front. Just below knot of bow is accent of brown mink. Slight train to back of skirt. Side zipper closure. Fully lined in green silk crepe matching jacket. Label inside skirt: "Milgrim" C) Muff of matching fabric. Large trapezoidal shaped muff, the front with two large tiers of mink tails and a large bow with floral pattern in tiny white seed beads accented in gold beads and with scrolling gold embroidery. Zipper compartment on back. Label inside pocket: "This Article / 10 Year Guarantee" "Berlou / Moth / Proofed"
Ensemble - Egyptian Traditional Ensemble
Egyptian Ensemble. A) Galabeya. Full-length galabeya of black cotton, with rounded neckline cut at base to for a shallow "V". Caftan style, with long sleeves and slit from hem upwards on right side. Front of galabeya with embroidered and applique decoration. Around neck and front of bodice is floral decoration and scrolls in gold, greens, red, and blue, and central shield-shaped gold satin applique piece with embroidered scroll work in gold and blue. Lower part of galabeya with matching, but inverted similar gold satin appliques with embroidered scrolls, and embroidered floral forms. Long sleeves with thin rectangular embroidered gold bands along wrist. Unlined. B) Head Scarf. Rectangle of fine red fabric, lower edge scalloped. Upper edge with sewn border incorporating spaced gold cylindrical beads. Ends of scarf and scalloped area of lower edge with thin crocheted/sewn band with spaced gold tear-drop beads and simulated gold coins. Applied to center of scarf are two bands of red crocheted/knitted net with gold spherical beads and pendant simulated gold coins.
Ensemble - Evening Gown and Stole
a) Evening gown of black wool and silk taffeta; top of wool with low scooped, curved neckline cut deep in back with 3/4 sleeves; fitted bodice extends to hip; skirt of silk taffeta; gathered; with silk underskirt. b) Stole of black wool with silk ruffled ends.
Ensemble - Jacket and Dress
Evening ensemble of a dress, jacket and belt. The full-length sleeveless evening dress is of black silk, with a slim silhouette. It has a wide, shallow V-neck at front, and has decorative twist in the fabric at back, which creates a deeper V. The wide straps are ruched at front with non-functional rhinestone-encrusted clasps sewn to them. The bodice has decorative seaming under bust and around the hips. The dress has a black silk belt with a rhinestone-encrusted "buckle", which functions as a large hook-and-eye rather than a buckle. The jacket is of matching black silk, lined with a cream-colored taffeta. The short, bell-shaped sleeves have a second "layer" creating the effect of a wide ruffle. Padded tubes of silk curve along each shoulder, tapering under the arm at front and back. There is a center front opening with no closure, which is "cut away" in a curve at front, giving the overall effect of a miniature 'cropped' opera cape. No labels in either garment. Possibly acquired by Ms. Hewett in France in the 1930's while studying medieval music manuscripts.
Ensemble - Jacket and Dress
Daytime ensemble. A) Dress of orange silk with white embroidered polka dots. Sleeveless. Wide, rounded/modified bateau neckline scooped lower in back. Gathered waist, A-line skirt, knee length with two side seam pockets. Center back lapped zipper closure. Bodice lined in orange silk. Skirt lined in cream silk. Designer's label at center back seam near hem: "Norman Norell / New York" B) Jacket of orange silk with white embroidered polka dots. Jewel neckline with mandarin collar. Three-quarter length set-in sleeves. Center front opening with three over-sized ivory silken looped "pompom" buttons. Bound buttonholes. Two snap closures at neckline and two hook & bar closures at hemline. Lined in orange silk. Designer's label at center back neckline: "Norman Norell / New York" Retailer's label below designer's label: "Howard Wolf / Dallas New York" C) Belt of ivory satin ribbon. 2-1/2 inches wide with 3/4 inch fraying at ends.
Ensemble - Jacket and Dress
Ensemble of printed silk. This cocktail or dinner ensemble in the "New Look" consists of a dress and bolero-style jacket of printed floral ikat silk with a black ground and floral design in gray, browns and dark brown/mauve shades. A) The dress is mid-calf-length, sleeveless, and with a boat neckline. Tailored to fit, with side bust and waist darts. Self fabric bow at top of waist gore which releases into a box pleat at the skirt. Slightly dropped waist. Under the sides of front box pleat edges are two knife pleats to create fullness, with darts for slimmer waist. On either side of front bock pleat is a small 1"intake pleat to balance fullness of skirt. Side seams have a lapping box pleat and an small triangular insert from front side seams. Back waist has 4 sets of box pleats, two on either side of center back zipper closure. The dress has built-in under-structure consisting of inner half-slip of off-white satin, and three layers of stiffened netting petticoats, all with horsehair braid at hem. B) The matching jacket is of the same cloth, cropped short in the bolero style. The center-front opening has no closures and is collarless. Raglan style sleeves are tea elbow length. Under sleeve and sleeve cuff is slightly ruched creating a faux cuff look. It is fully lined in a brown silk organza. 4-way underarm gusset. Sewn into the hem are French weights. There is no label in the dress. The jacket has a single designer's label: "Printemps-Ete 1956 / Christian Dior / Paris" which has stamped on it "80615". The "1956" appears embossed, not printed, and the black backing of the label is cut away behind the "1956".
Ensemble - Jacket and Dress
Ensemble of a dark grey wool mohair consisting of: A) Jacket in boxed style. Single breasted with three large, circular, horn buttons and bound buttonholes; notched collar. Bracelet length, set-in sleeves. Lined in dark gray silk. Designer's label at inside center back neckline: "Made in France / Boutique / Christian Dior / Paris " and stamped on label: "10118" B) Dress. Sleeveless, with shallow, wide rounded neckline. Natural waist with an A-line over skirt and with under skirt of dark gray silk and 7" hemline of matching wool creating a tiered or multi-layer look. Center back zipper with hook & eye. Skirt lined in dark gray silk and bodice lined in black organza with black grosgrain ribbon petersham and black silk noil support structure.
Ensemble - Jacket and Dress
Short cocktail or informal dinner ensemble of green silk brocade with woven design in tiny gray/blue floral pattern. The fitted short jacket has a natural waistline slightly gathered at front, princess seams front and back, and cap sleeves. V-back, with open throat neck-line. Round collar trimmed with brown mink fur. 3/4 length dolman sleeves, 5 self-covered buttons at center front. Green faille lining. No labels in jacket. The dress of the same fabric is mid-calf length, and has a square neckline with small V cut in front and tucks at corners of square, back neckline V that matches front V. Short cap sleeves with underarm rectangular gusset. Three small pleats at left and right of natural waistline. Center back zipper with hook and eye closure. Lined as jacket. Retailer's label at left inside seam inside skirt: "Neiman-Marcus" Retailer's label that acts as "modesty weight" at center front inside of neckline, 4 inches long: "Neiman Marcus" The dress has a belt covered in same fabric, lined with leather.
Ensemble - Jacket and Pants
Ensemble in lavender ultra suede consisting of: A) Jacket. Single breasted with center front opening of 8 small circular tan buttons. Below hip length; box style. Turndown collar with pointed ends. Long, set-in sleeves with 2-1/2" cuffs and matching button closure. Patch pockets at sides. Jacket is trimmed with three vertical rows of pin tucks at each side from shoulder to pockets. Unlined. Designer's label at center back neckline: "Mollie Parnis / a Skinner Ultra / Suede Fabric" B) Pants. Wide cut, full length. Center front zipper with fly and 2 hook & eyes and snap on 1" waistband and waist tab which closes with matching button. Unlined. Laundry instructions and union label to right of zipper. C) Tie belt of self; 1-1/4" wide.
Ensemble - Jacket and Skirt
Ensemble of pink, black, purple and green silk. a) Jacket of multicolored silk jacquard in floral motif. Long straight sleeves; collarless; shoulder pads. Black hand beading and sequins embellishment. Lined in black silk. Designer's label at center back neckline: "Midon" b) Skirt of black silk jacquard in abstract pattern. 1.5 inch waistband backed in black grosgrain with center back zipper reinforced with two hook & bars and large snap. Knee length, kick pleat in back. Lined in black silk organza. Designer's label at center back waistband: "Midon" c) Blouse of multicolored silk in same floral motif as jacket. Long sleeved. Yoked shoulder forms cowl neck. Center back opening with small black round button and string loop.
Ensemble - Jacket and Skirt
Ensemble of silver thread silk brocade in a pattern of vertical wavy lines. A) Jacket is full-length with stand-up collar that is open with elongated V at front. Center front opening to waist with 6 crystal buttons with loops of self-fabric; open to hemline. Long set-in sleeves with 4-3/4" bell cuffs. Shoulder pads; lined in grey silk crepe. Designer's label inside: "Michael Faircloth" B) Straight skirt is full-length with 18" slit at center back. 1-1/4" waistband with center-back zip and hook & eye closure. Lined in grey silk crepe.
Ensemble - Jacket and Slacks
Daytime, travel ensemble in heather oatmeal wool jersey knit. a) Blazer. Single breasted with 7 self-covered buttons and bound buttonholes. Long, set-in sleeves; Peter Pan collar. Two small patch pockets on sides at breast and two larger patch pockets on hips. Lined in beige silk. Designer's label at center back neckline: "Norman Norell / New York" Care label below designer's label: "Care Instructions / Professionally / Dry Clean Only" Retailer's label at inside right hem: "Lou Lattimore / Dallas" b) Slacks. Full length; wide cut. Narrow waistband. Center back zipper with hook & eye. Unlined. c) Belt of self. 1-1/2" wide.
Ensemble - Jacket, Blouse, and Skirt
Ensemble consisting of: A) Jacket of woven silver metallic, heavy-weight thread in a diamond pattern; scoop neckline; short, raglan sleeves; open-front; reverse pleat at center-back below waistline; crescent, princess seams at back and front; 2 slit pockets at sides; knee-length; fully lined in ivory silk organdy. B) Blouse of off-white silk organza moire, sleeveless and cinched under the armpit; scoop neckline embellished at front with various rectangular pieces of fabric swatches in self-fabric and white knit with triangular and square crystal gem accents; under-layer of self-moire with an extended hem; attached tie at waist sides of white cotton. C) Mini-skirt of ivory crisp woven fabric (wool) with wide waistband, with box pleat at center-front; 2 pleats at back; waistband has double breasted snap closure at back and is lined in ivory silk; center-back zip closure that adjusts to a slit with 2 zipper tabs; lined in silk taffeta; 18 ½” length.