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  Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
 Decade: 1940-1949
 Collection: Texas Fashion Collection
Coat

Coat

Date: 1944
Creator: Adrian
Description: Coat of purple wool. Below-knee-length, collarless, and with long sleeves. Center front opening with three large, self covered buttons. Two patch pockets trimmed with one matching button each and framed in 3/4 inch inserts. Lined in purple silk crepe. Designer's label at inside center back neckline: "Adrian / Original" With matching covered belt with functioning belt buckle. Leather reverse with three punched holes. Stamped "1756 - 14"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Coat Dress

Coat Dress

Date: 1949
Creator: Dior, Christian
Description: Coat dress of navy silk faille with padded hips. Notched collar; single button closure. Long sleeves with vertical pleat across back shoulder to each sleeve hem. Lower mid-length skirt. Two crescent shaped pieces of fabric at hips with faux pocket detail gives the appearance of a separate jacket. Designer's label on inner right waist side seam: "Christian Dior/ New York/ Original" Tag above designer's label: "Fall 1949" Retailer's label on back of neck: "Neiman-Marcus/ Dallas" Belt of matching navy leather. Stamped on back of belt: "10 Christian Dior / New York"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Cocktail Dress

Cocktail Dress

Date: 1949
Creator: Norell, Norman
Description: A) Cocktail dress of blue silk satin. Sleeveless with spaghetti straps of same. Set-in waist which scallops at bottom hem and attaches to panels of full skirt. Tea length. Left side zipper with hook & eye. Skirt lined in black tulle. Combined retailer/designer label at inside left seam near hem: "Neiman-Marcus dallas / Traina-Norell" B) Belt of same with rectangular, self covered buckle. 1/2 inch wide.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Cocktail Ensemble

Cocktail Ensemble

Date: 1948
Creator: Norell, Norman
Description: Cocktail ensemble of heavy black silk faille, consisting of: A) Dress. Long dress, sleeveless, narrow straps, rounded neckline, higher in front. Slightly raised waist. Left side zipper. Very full skirt gathered into waist. Designer's label at inside skirt side seam: "Traina-Norell / New York" B) Jacket. Waist length jacket with rounded collar, short, highly puffed "pumpkin" sleeves which gather into shoulders. Center front opening with four black covered buttons. Flares from waist. Designer's label at inside back collar: "Traina-Norell / New York"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Cocktail Ensemble

Cocktail Ensemble

Date: 1944
Creator: Norell, Norman
Description: Cocktail ensemble consisting of: A) Blouse of fuchsia wool jersey with long sleeves, banded neckline with placket down the center back, and 5 self-covered circular buttons. B) Skirt of black silk brocade, Dirndl style, below knee length, with center back opening having a zipper and 2 hook&eyes on waistband. Unlined. C) Belt of matching black silk brocade with matching fuchsia wool jersey on reverse. Square self-covered buckle. 2" wide. The blouse and belt with no labels or stamps. The skirt with combined Designer/Retailer label at side seam near hem: "Neiman-Marcus Dallas / Traina-Norell"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Cocktail Ensemble - Bodice and Skirt

Cocktail Ensemble - Bodice and Skirt

Date: 1949
Creator: Leibert, Dorine
Description: Cocktail ensemble of mauve damask satin with woven pattern of small flowers consisting of: A) Bodice/top. Sleeveless, with 1" shoulder straps and 3" fold around neckline. Left side zipper opening from bottom to almost neckline. Unlined. B) Skirt, of matching fabric with scattered groups of "smoked"? sequins. Floor length, A-line, with wide, 3" waistband. Center back zipper. Unlined.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Day Dress

Day Dress

Date: 1940/1945
Creator: Norell, Norman
Description: Daytime dress of navy blue silk crepe in modified shirtwaist style. Yoked shoulders with collar. Inner neckline has 7 small mother-of-pearl buttons for additional detachable collar to drape over existing collar. Center front opening with 6 large 1-1/4" mother of pearl buttons with vertical buttonholes. Long set-in sleeves with matching button at cuff. Evidence of smocking below waist seam, but threading is missing. Street length. Unlined. Designer's label at right seam near hem: "Traina-Norell / New York" b) Contour belt of navy leather. Wider at ends with rectangular buckle covered in same. Back stamped "14".
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Day Dress

Day Dress

Date: Autumn 1949
Creator: Dior, Christian
Description: Day dress of brown silk damask in fine diamond pattern. The dress is in wrap-around style, with asymmetric neckline with wide, shawl collar on the left. Street length. Opening buttons on bodice at left with 4 circular, brown buttons and bound buttonholes, hook & eye at natural waist and two snaps where skirt attaches to peplum. Peplum is asymmetric and longer on left. Long dolman sleeves with underarm gussets and folded back cuffs. With matching belt.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Daytime Dress

Daytime Dress

Date: 1944
Creator: Norell, Norman
Description: Daytime dress in modified shirtwaist/sheath style of black jersey wool. Sleeveless with padded shoulders and wide, notched collar. Street length. Center front opening with 6 large, clear, modified emerald cut rhinestone buttons and bound buttonholes. One-inch wide self fabric tie belt attached at sides. Small patch pockets at sides, below waist. Unlined. Combined retailer/designer's label at inside left seam near hem: "Neiman-Marcus dallas / Traina-Norell"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Derby Hat

Derby Hat

Date: 1948
Creator: Louise Inc.
Description: Hat in derby style of navy felt. Edge of crown trimmed in wide bands of navy, gray and red yarn with very narrow gold thread knots tied to tasseled ends of yarn bands. Unlined with navy grosgrain ribbon inner headband. Elastic band for securing hat to wearer's head. Maker/retailer's label: "A / Neiman / Marcus / Original"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Dinner Dress

Dinner Dress

Date: 1948
Creator: Norell, Norman
Description: Formal dinner dress of black wool crepe and lavender satin. Bodice of lavender satin with short, puffed sleeves and low rounded neckline in front, higher in back. Sleeves with elastic gathering at openings. Front of bodice with vertical gathers. Back with open slit and lavender satin drawstring closure at neckline. Empire waist. Skirt of black wool crepe, full-length. Center back zipper in skirt begins at join to bodice where bodice is slit. Unlined. Combined designer's/retailer's label sewn in skirt, behind Neiman-Marcus id label: "Neiman-Marcus Dallas / Traina-Norell".
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
D'Orsay Pumps

D'Orsay Pumps

Date: 1949
Creator: Pandora Footwear
Description: Pair of brown suede D'Orsay Pumps. The shoes have brown suede rounded toe box and heel area, but are open at sides to the sole. Small inverted V cut at front creating "peep-toe" effect. On top of vamp is sewn on brown suede "tie" forming the effect of a bow. Brown suede ankle strap. Thick 3 1/2" high spike heel covered in brown suede. Marked inside heel of both shoes: "17061-1 / 6 S / 11310X"; Stamped on sole of both shoes: "Pandora / Footwear" The D'Orsay Pumps style of shoes is named after Count d'Orsay, a 19th century leader of French Society.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Dress

Dress

Date: 1947
Creator: Adrian, Gilbert
Description: Evening dress of silk crepe for summer. The full-length dress has an A-line skirt of cocoa brown silk crepe and attached belt with pendant strap at front left. The bodice is of cream silk crepe printed with a "trompe l'oeil" ribbon motif below the rounded neckline. Darts at sides. Long, bat-wing style tapered sleeves. Center-back snap closure. Unlined. Designer's label: "Adrian / Original"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Dress

Dress

Date: 1947
Creator: Norell, Norman
Description: Brown print silk dress with belt and umbrella. A) Full-length silk dress printed with brown/white/black over-all pattern of large leaves or pinecones on stems. Wide, shallow neckline. Side zipper. Sleeveless, with sleeves edged with cut-out leaf shapes from the print. Hem with same treatment. A-line skirt. Unlined. Combined Designer/Retailer's label: "Neiman-Marcus Dallas / Traina-Norell" B) Belt of same fabric, backed in cream leather, with rectangular, fabric-covered buckle. C) Umbrella. Not pictured.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Dress

Dress

Date: 1949
Creator: David Crystal
Description: Dress of brown puckered nylon. Street length with A-lined skirt. Fitted bodice. Spread collar and 3/4 length sleeves with turned-back cuffs. Two patch pockets at upper bust, with false flaps. Center front opening with 5 circular cast brass buttons and hidden hook & eye at natural waist. Slit pockets at hips. Unlined. Retailer's label at inside back neckline: "Neiman-Marcus / Sports Shop" With matching narrow belt faced in same fabric, backed in brown leather. Rectangular self-covered buckle. Stamped on reverse: "10 1820"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Ensemble

Ensemble

Date: 1948
Creator: Carnegie, Hattie
Description: Ensemble of black wool. The outfit consists of: A) Dress of black wool. Street-length skirt has attached low front leather belt which passes through pleats on left and right. Bodice has narrow collar and deep V-neck with piping that twists at base of V. Bracelet length sleeves with cuffs. Back zipper. No labels. B) Jacket of black wool. Jacket has long sleeves with rolled, notched cuffs, and a notched collar. Center front opening has 5 circular, plastic buttons and covered buttonholes. The padded hips have double welt pockets at left and right. The jacket is lined in black silk. Combined Designer/Retailer label: "Neiman-Marcus dallas / Hattie Carnegie" National Recovery Board / Coat and Suit Industry label "000006"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Ensemble - Blouse, Skirt, Belt, Purse

Ensemble - Blouse, Skirt, Belt, Purse

Date: 1949
Creator: Dior, Christian
Description: Cocktail or dinner dress ensemble of pale blue/green satin brocade with design of acanthus and thistle/leaf in dark green and golden yellow, consisting of: A) Blouse. Short sleeves with 2" rolled cuffs and shawl collar. Center front opening has 4 self-covered buttons above waist, and 6 hook-and-loops below waist on peplum for securing into skirt. Fitted seaming and pleats centered on waist. Unlined. Label inside top at left side seam: "Made in France / Christian Dior / Paris" and stamped on label: "05456" B) Skirt of matching brocade. The mid-length skirt is double box pleated from narrow waistband. Center back zipper with hook-and-eyes at waistband. Unlined. C) Petticoat of ivory moiré satin. Mid-length, with narrow waistband. Center back zipper with hook-and-eye at waistband. E) Belt of green silk-covered ivory leather with rectangular silk-covered buckle. (not in photographs) D) Purse of green silk.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Ensemble - Cape Coat and Dress

Ensemble - Cape Coat and Dress

Date: 1947
Creator: Adrian, Gilbert
Description: Two-piece wool tweed cape/coat street ensemble. a) Cape coat of wool tweed in three shades of plum. Long, single-breasted coat with cape attached at shoulders. Four button closure with alternating bound buttonholes and supplemented with two hook & eyes. Two small double welt pockets on yoke and two larger double welt pockets at waistline. Coat dress portion is tailored at waistline with 3/4 length sleeves. Small turndown collar. Lined in rust brown colored silk faille. Designer's label at inside back neckline: "Adrian / Original" b) Straight skirt of matching wool tweed. Unlined. Zipper closure.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Ensemble - Dress and Coat

Ensemble - Dress and Coat

Date: 1946
Creator: Norell, Norman
Description: Ensemble of blue heathered wool herringbone knit. A) Dress of blue heathered wool herringbone knit with bodice of black jersey knit. Short sleeves. 1 1/2" wide mandarin collar. Center back zipper closure with self-covered button and buttonhole on collar at back. Skirt is street length with slight A-line. Unlined skirt. No labels in dress. B) Fitted jacket of of blue heathered wool herringbone knit. Long sleeves with cuffs of black Persian lamb. V-neckline trimmed in black Persian lamb. Left side closure with two circular black metal buttons at shoulder and four matching button on left side seam. Lined in black silk crepe. Combined designer/retailer label at center back neckline of jacket: "Neiman-Marcus Dallas / Traina-Norell"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Ensemble - Evening Gown and Stole

Ensemble - Evening Gown and Stole

Date: 1949
Creator: Balenciaga, Cristóbal
Description: a) Evening gown of black wool and silk taffeta; top of wool with low scooped, curved neckline cut deep in back with 3/4 sleeves; fitted bodice extends to hip; skirt of silk taffeta; gathered; with silk underskirt. b) Stole of black wool with silk ruffled ends.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Ensemble - Kutchi Group, Pashtun Peoples, Afghanistan

Ensemble - Kutchi Group, Pashtun Peoples, Afghanistan

Date: 1940/1960
Creator: unknown
Description: Ensemble - Kutchi Dress, Pashtun Peoples, Afghanistan. This assembled ensemble consists of: 1. Dress. Full-length. High neckline, slight V-shape. Front yoke/bib panel of fine needlework geometric shapes and patterns, in orange, purple, green, and blue. Front of bodice with four large embroidered rosettes of silver couching with orange silver/white, and black borders. Over-length, wide sleeves of patchwork of materials, including red, purple, and pink. Cuffs of heavy silver couching with central band of small circular mirrors in needlework frames. High, narrow waistband of silver/gold couching. Front of skirt formed of thin black fabric heavily gathered to form voluminous front panel. Wide band of red fabric lining inside of front panel at hem. Back of bodice formed of red cloth with vertical white stripes. Embroidered panels under arms. Back of skirt formed of upper panel of purple printed with blue and off-white flowers and leaves, heavily gathered into waistband. Lower panel of purple fabric, as full as upper panel. Black hem on back of skirt. 2. Headpiece of silver set with glass and plastic(?) rubies and emeralds, center plaque with glass segments simulating lapis and jade(?). Central circular plaque with central red circular glass "stone" surrounded by 6 alternating triangular green ...
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Evening Dress

Evening Dress

Date: 1945/1949
Creator: Adrian, Gilbert
Description: Evening dress consisting of jacket and skirt. A) Jacket. The fitted black velvet jacket is encrusted with gold braid/ribbon in a lattice/trellis pattern over the entire surface, with added buttons, cabochons, beads, etc. lavishly sewn over the surface. The jacket has a no collar, and short capped sleeves. From the natural waist flares a peplum. The jacket has a center front closure of hooks-and-eyes. Unlined, it has built-in shoulder pads. No label in jacket. B) Straight skirt is full-length, of heavy black crepe. Center back zipper closure with hook-and-eye at waistband. Designer's label inside skirt at side seam: "Adrian / Custom", along with a second label, typed on white grosgrain ribbon, sewn in: "Neiman Marcus 417 / Size 12".
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Evening Dress

Evening Dress

Date: 1940
Creator: Adrian, Gilbert
Description: Evening dress of black heavy crepe with rows of looped accents at neckline, left sleeve, left hip and on draped band below left hip. Two hanging tabs from right waistline. Sheath silhouette. Pointed collar with open slit. Long sleeves with small zippers at cuffs. Full length with vent at center front. Center back zipper closure. Designer's label: "Adrian / Original"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Evening Dress

Evening Dress

Date: 1948/1952
Creator: unknown
Description: Evening dress of champagne peau de soie. Princess style. Sweetheart neckline in front, with small horizontal pleats at front left and right princess seaming at upper part of bust; back neckline is low and rounded. 1-1/2 inch wide shoulder straps that split in front to form an inverted Y, with horizontal band of same fabric at dividing point. Natural waist. Skirt is below knee length, at at hips has three almost horizontal bias folds which extend to from hip center back and join to form bow; lower sash ends of the bow attach to skirt to form "bustle drape", giving added fullness. Attached net petticoat gathered to taffeta yoke; back zipper. Retailer's label at left side seam: "Neiman-Marcus"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design