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  Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
 Collection: Texas Fashion Collection
Infant's Slip
Slip for an infant of white cotton. Sleeveless. White work embroidery at neck and hem. Narrow lace edging at neck and armholes with wider lace edging at hemline. Two button closure at center back neckline. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc87056/
Jacket
Jacket of black silk satin. The jacket, formed as a basque bodice with typical close-fitting achieved by seaming, has extended front panels and is edged with ivory lace. The jacket is embellished with dark blue velvet and olive brown chenille appliques of floral and leaf forms and black jet beading. Lined in ivory silk satin. Photograph is from the exhibition Haute Couture - The Great Paris Designers, held at The Grace Museum, Abilene Texas, October 17 - December 30, 2000, and shows jacket as displayed with a period hat (Accession #: 1981.015.001) and skirt (Accession #: 1967.025.099). digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc29991/
Jacket
Jacket of black, green, red, pink, and yellow flannel in a large, painterly plaid pattern. The jacket is just below hip-length, and has a round neckline and no collar. Center front closure has a zipper with a gold metal rose charm pull, matching the pulls of the zippers on the two diagonal slit pockets at hips. Long-sleeved, with three non-functional buttons at wrists, formed as coiled snakes/spirals of gold metal. The jacket has inner shoulder pads and is fully lined in black satin. Designer's label: "Ungaro / Parallele / Paris" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286901/
Jacket
Jacket of Golden Spotted Seal fur with rounded collar and lapels; double breasted button accents with buttons of pearl grey circle set in gold metallic soft square; 4 fur covered belt loops, 2 on front and 2 on back, front belt loops are accented with self-buttons (right side button missing); two slit pockets at sides are lined in grey silk satin; long sleeves, pockets and jacket opening are trimmed in leather piping; 2 concealed metal hook and leather eye closures, one at bust and one at waist; fully lined in grey silk satin; hits at below hips. Label inside coat: Expressly made for William Schmidt/ OSLO/ 1853. With belt of black leather with oval, silver metal buckle; 2” width. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc283730/
Jacket
Jacket of black satin and black mink fur. Short, cropped jacket with high rounded neckline and full-length set-in sleeves made in heavy silk satin. Center front opening without closure devices. Neckline, front opening and cuffs trimmed in black mink fur. Fully lined in black silk. Designer's label at inside center back below collar: "Made in France / Automne-Hiver 1962 / Christian Dior / Paris"and s Style number stamped on label: "117880" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc115012/
Jacket
Jacket of navy blue wool crepe. Asymmetrically trimmed with pleated band falling from right shoulder, secured with white buckle at waistline. Self belt at waist with matching white buckle. Long sleeved with pleated diagonal at lower right sleeve. Designer's label: "Adrian / Original" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc283688/
Jacket
Woman's jacket of purple wool with asymmetrical curved inset at right shoulder. Two bound slit pockets below shoulder. Center front closure with 3 buttons and bound buttonholes. Two slit pockets at hips with an asymmetrical inset over left pocket. Designer's label: "Adrian / Original" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc283694/
Jacket
Waist-length black simulated alligator jacket. The cropped shell is constructed of panels of leather blind-stamped to simulate alligator. Panels are edged with silver-colored circular metal grommeted eyelets, and are joined with knitted black cording. The high, rounded spread collar is of ribbed black knit. Zipper closure from throat to hem at center front. The jacket is unlined, and has two interior, black canvas, envelope pockets with snap closures. Label is located inside at center back, below the collar. "Paco Rabanne / Paris Made in France". Jacket was donated as part of an ensemble which also included black wool and cashmere knit sweater by Dior, and black hip-hugger trousers by Remy. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30238/
Jeans
Pair of commercially produced Wrangler denim jeans that were found in the southern Rocky mountains across from Red River, New Mexico in the late 1960's. The pants had been bleached in irregular patterns by the sun, and had various worn and torn places. After discovery, the Wranglers were embellished with red velour fabric pieces to cover some of the worst structural damage, and with a commercially available embroidered butterfly patch added below waistband at center back. Labels: Evidence of rectangular tag having been sewn on right-side back pocket. Both back pockets have "W" stitching; Fly button engraved "Wrangler"; Tag sewn inside fly: "Wrangler / 30 x 34 / Sanforized / Made in U.S.A."; Zipper pull stamped "Gripper Zipper" and "Pat Pending"; Marked on left front pocket, inside pants: "GDW" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30327/
Jeans
Pair of jeans. Commercially manufactured Levi Strauss & Co. denim blue jeans which have been bleached to white, then disassembled and reassembled with embellishments of multi-color crewel embroidered fabric and glass beads. Jeans have two front pockets and two back pockets, front zipper fly and button at waistband. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30328/
Juliet Cap
Juliet cap of black velvet with wide band of ecru crocheted lace covering all but small circular area on top. Bow of ecru crocheted lace on front of hat held in place with band of black velvet. Lined in black silk. Designer's label: " J Suzanne Talbot / modes / 14 Rue Royal Paris" Tag attached to designer's label: "Made in France" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114865/
Juliet Cap
Juliet-style hat of light blue felt with four teardrop-shaped appliques of iridescent sequins and faux pearls outlined in clear beads across front. Wire frame covered in light blue velour. Unlined. Retailer's Label: Volk digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39213/
Jumpsuit
Jumpsuit of pink, yellow, green and blue horizontal striped paper. The full-length rayon fiber remay paper pantsuit has olive green, pink, blue and tan stripes. Bodice is sleeveless, empire style, with with high rounded neckline and narrow spread collar, with stripes going horizontally. There is a center back zipper closure from the neck to hip-level. Pants are full-length, wide legged palazzo pants with vertical stripes. The pant legs are slit from the hem to mid-calf, and are unhemmed. The piece is lined in a white rayon fiber paper cloth. Retailer's label at inside left beneath the collar: "Change-In-Time / Boutique / Dallas, Texas". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30035/
Jumpsuit
Jumpsuit of champagne satin with strapless bodice and wide leg pants pleated at waistline; bodice is fitted with constructed bust and princess seams; bodice is heavily embellished at the bust with faceted crystal disc beads that fade out just below the waist; center-back zip closure. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc402525/
Kimono
Kimono of burgundy red silk with printed all-over design of large butterflies in creams, tans, blues, etc. Lined in orange crepe silk. Padded hem. Hand-sewn. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc276990/
Kimono
Kimono of purple silk printed with designs of flowers, birds and butterflies in purples, blues, tans, reds, etc. Detailing in gold embroidery. With five white "mon" designs similar to a "yin-yang" shape of matched commas. Partly lined in red silk. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc277142/
Kipper Tie
Wide kipper tie of large stylized paisley designs in yellows and gold on a blue field. Blue is somewhat faded from the original shade. The tie has a tag on reverse marked "Brent" and with the logo for Montgomery Ward. The creation of the kipper tie, a form of extra-wide necktie known for bright colors and patterns, is credited to British designer Michael Fish. He brought out the earliest ones in the 1960's. This example was a gift to the donor by his maternal grandmother, Mary Kathleen King Miller (1898-1969). digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30325/
Man's Coat
Man's coat of chocolate brown polyurethane. Trench coat style, double-breasted with 7 (1 missing) circular gold-tone buttons with centers of self. Convertible collar with large lapel and smaller, matching button. Epaulets at shoulders. Vertical slotted pockets with 1-1/2" welt. Long vent down center back closes with single, hidden button. Lined in olive green synthetic fiber fabric. Inner zipper for lining, now missing. With matching belt with brown, rectangular buckle. Brand (?) label inside: "Dimension IV" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc461820/
Man's Vest
Vest of blue, red and white leather suede. The blue body of the vest has star-shaped cut-outs, revealing the white lining. Floor-length red fringe hangs from the body of the vest. Label at center back neckline: "Great Northern / Leather & Tea Co. / 100% Leather & Suede / 113 Elizabeth St. New York City" Inside back signed: "Roy A. Schueler" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc461792/
Men's Pants
Man's olive green cotton corduroy pants with no waistband or pockets. Metal hook front closure. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30168/
Men's Shirt
Men's button front bright pink. orange. blue and green multi-colored ocean print Irish cotton shirt. Wide dog's-ear collar. Long sleeved. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30167/
Men's Trench Coat
Men's trench coat of brown glazed/polished cotton with stand-up collar which fastens with two buttons. Concealed button-down front, vertical welt pockets. Saddle sleeves with two buttons and tab at cuff. Belt of self with narrow, rectangular buckle covered in leather. Back has seam down center, ending in slit with two buttons. Designer's label at center back neckline: "Giorgio Armani / Made in Italy" Worn by Valerian Stux-Rybar; donated by Jean-Francois Daigre digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc402573/
Mini Dress
Mini dress of bright red wool jersey knit. The tubular mini dress has a rounded neckline and short sleeves. Black, shiny vinyl trim at neckline, sleeve hem, lower hem, and in the form of six Pierre Cardin bullseye trademarks arranged in a triangle from natural waist to lower hem. At center back are hook and eye and zipper closure. Dress is unlined. Designer's label: "Pierre Cardin / Paris New York" Care label: "The vinyl trim / on this garment / has been specially treated / to make dry cleaning possible". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc87026/
Mini Dress
Sheath-style mini dress of pink linen with all-over eyelash fringe. The linen-weave garment is sleeveless, with rounded neckline. It is printed with an elongated honey-comb pattern in shades of pink and white with woven-in fringe throughout. At each shoulder is three circular pink cloth covered buttons. The honeycomb pattern starts out light pink, and darkens towards the hem of the dress. Lower hem is dagged, following the line of the pattern. Lined at hem and upper part in pink. Label in center back inside: "Remas / of Scottsdale" 96 cm. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30138/
Mitts
Pair of off-white nylon mitts. The elbow-length fingerless gloves have a loop for the thumb, and are embellished along the finger opening with a trim of openwork daisy heads. Stamped: "Nylasuede / by Hansen / 6 1/2" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc86995/
Mitts
Pair of black cotton lace mitts. The wrist-length fingerless gloves are of hand-crocheted lace, in a wide mesh. Slight frill at wrist, and separate thumb. A narrow black ribbon is threaded through the cuff, one ribbon lacking. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc86986/
Mitts
Pair of ivory cotton or silk mitts. The elbow-length fingerless gloves are of crocheted ivory material in the style of the 1860's. The long sleeves have bands of lacework patterning. The hands are fingerless, with cording between where fingers would go, and an oval opening for the thumb. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc86974/
Moccasin Pumps
Pair of "Moccasin Pumps" of cream leather. The shoes are designed with a squared toe, and have the look of moccasins and pumps. Instep with extending tongue of same leather, with wide band of same crossing instep and securing on outside with a "V" shape of gold-colored metal. Low, square block heel. Maker's label stamped inside: "Veneziano Inc / Made in Italy" Stamped inside: "35 8899" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc87015/
Moccasins
Pair of moccasins of white pigskin leather. The shoes are designed with a rounded toe, with a decorative bow of leather straps and tassels at vamp. Low, stacked heel. Maker's mark stamped inside: "Frank Brothers / New York" Stamped inside: "5 1/2 S 1369 / 71 500" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114839/
Mourning Ensemble - Bodice and Skirt
Black silk mourning ensemble consisting of bodice and skirt. The bodice of black silk is fitted and boned, with a high, standing black silk band collar with appliqued black lace medallions. It has full-length, modified bishop sleeves that gather into the armseye. Below the gathered cap, in the portion corresponding to the upper arm, the fullness of the sleeve is controlled with top-stitched vertical tucks. From the elbow to the cuff the fullness is again released in a bishop sleeve silhouette. The sleeves gather again into wide black silk cuffs with appliqued black lace medallions and four narrow bands of black velvet ribbon. The bodice front is constructed on the lines of a bolero jacket, with a deep V-shaped opening and wide ruffled collar which is constructed of horizontally tucked black crepe-patterned silk. The released fullness of the tucking creates the ruffled finish. The ruffled portion is edged with two narrow bands of black velvet ribbon. The bodice front has a bib fill of gathered black silk and tulle net that is secured with hook-and-eyes beneath the left collar overlay. The fill area disguises the true front opening which is secured with thirteen hook-and-eyes. The main body of the bodice, front and back, is constructed of vertically tucked black silk that finishes in a wide black silk waistband which is appliqued with black lace medallions and edged in narrow black velvet ribbon. The waistband laps slightly left of center and secures with three hook-and-eyes. The bodice is fully lined with heavily boned glazed black cotton and has figure enhancing pads sewn over the bust and underarm areas and has a black cotton petersham that hooks at center front. There are two hooks at back waist-level to connect the bodice to the skirt. The matching seven-panel gored skirt is of black silk and has a narrow waistband with center back placket opening secured with three hook-and-eyes. The rear fullness pleats into the waistband and disguises the opening. Two rear hooks at the waistline connect the skirt to the bodice. The full hem is embellished with seven horizontal rows of narrow black velvet ribbon. The hem is faced with black velvet, and there is a built-in bustle pad. There are no labels in the garment. The mourning dress originally belonged to Margaret Louise Walker (b.1840-d.1903), who lived on the Walker Plantation outside of Aberdeen. Mississippi. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30264/
Mourning Fan
Folding mourning fan. Guards and sticks of plain black wood, shaped but not adorned. The leaf is of plain black cloth. No visible labels, marks or signatures. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc38050/
Mules
Pair of platform mules of pink, purple, and light green suede. Shoes have thick platform soles covered with pink suede, and rounded toes. Open-toe style, the wide vamp section created by color-blocks of suede. 3 1/2" high chunky heel, rounded at back. Stamped on inside: "Lujano / Hand Made / In Italy" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114759/
Mules
Mules of red leather. The backless shoes are designed with pointed toe, squared at tip, and with rounded vamp. At top of vamp on each shoe is a large flattened sphere of same leather. Platform/sole of white leather. The low, set-in heels taper to base, and are covered in same red leather. Stamped on insole: "Hand made in Spain / Simorettes / World famous kid" Stamped on sole: "8 1/2"; "N" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc402538/
Mushroom Hat
Mushroom hat of red/orange baku straw. Uniquely cut crown is square with points at front and back. Four side panels are formed off of sides of square crown. Lined in white gauze material with red/orange grosgrain ribbon inner headband. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc305425/
Mushroom Hat
Cocktail mushroom hat of black silk gazar. Over-sized, with flat top and slightly downward turned 6" brim. Pillbox inner crown with black grosgrain inner headband. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc305385/
Mushroom Hat
Hat of black felt. Resembling the cap of a mushroom, the hat consists of a wide, low, soft crown that extends out as a brim would. The underside of the "cap" is of the same material, and the whole is set on a short cylindrical "stalk" which fits on the wearer's head. Inner part of hat is unlined, with an inner black grosgrain ribbon hatband. Retailer's label inside: "Made to order hat / Bergdorf / Goodman / On The Plaza - New York" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc330500/
Necklace - Banjara Festival Attire
Necklace. Torc-style necklace of silver, twisted and with wire wrapping at ends. Rigid hook at front to connect ends, and with a single Indian 25 Paise coin mounted near each side of clasp, with pendant silver beads. Suspended from the ends, near the clasp, are two large triangular ornaments of silver openwork, from which are suspended short lengths of silver chain terminating in silver spheres. Coins date from 1982 and 1988. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc461854/
Necklace - Rabari Festival Attire
Necklace. "Bib" style necklace with 4-strand black yarn necklace with silver slide at back. Front bib of silver beads mounted in vertical bands into a "fan" form, from which hang a fringe of 11 polished cowrie(?) shells, with a further fringe of pendant chains and spheres hanging from each shell. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc461823/
Necklace - Rabari Festival Attire
Necklace. Long necklace basket-weave links on which are strung tubular silver beads and mounted Indian coins. Center section composed of three larger coins, each with three pendant coins, from which hang small fringes of chain and spheres. No clasp, long flat strip at back. 16 single coins are 25 Paise from India, various dates from 1976 to 1988; 2 pendants are 50 Paise from India, dates obscured by mounts; 1 pendant is a 1979 1 Rupee from India; The 9 smaller pendant coins below main pendants are 25 Paise coins from India, dated from 1975 to 1987. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc461845/
Necklace - Turkmenistan Festival Outfit
Necklace. Green cloth necklace, edged with black cloth tape and embellished with spaced stamped silver roundels. Button/buttonhole clasp. The necklace supports a massive silver pendant formed as a large triangle set with oval red glass cabochons, between two silver "club" shapes. Below the triangle and clubs is a horizontal silver square tube set with oval red cabochons, below which are four large inverted stylized "fleur-dis-lys" forms, set with oval cabochons. From all lower parts hang long chains and large bells. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc461847/
Necklace - Turkmenistan Festival Outfit
Necklace. Bead necklace of red and blue glass(?) beads strung on white cord. From necklace, via 3 large loops, is suspended a large horizontal silver-colored tube, with bands of flattened/soldered wire decoration. From lower edge of tube hang pendants of flat silver shapes, some small rectangular, some larger "bird shaped", each set with a red or green stone. From these pendants hand further chains and oval plaques. Tube opens at one end, is empty. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc461802/
Necklace - Uzbekistan - Surxondaryo Province - Boysun Peoples Festival Outfit
Necklace of openwork beading. Wide straps with diamond shapes of yellow/orange with inner sections of blues and yellows against grounds of green, red, blue, and orange. Large central section formed as a white beaded diamond shape containing concentric diamonds of green and red. Blue beaded fringe at bottom ending in red and white "flowerheads" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc461844/
Necklace - Uzbekistan - Surxondaryo Province - Boysun Peoples Festival Outfit
Bead Necklace. "Bib" style, with wide main portion of latticed clear beads overlaid with a field of shell/mother of pearl buttons. Vertical strands of beads along top, attaching to choker band with button clasp. The bib has a lower band of white, black, etc. openwork beading, then strands of beaded fringe in clear, green, yellow, blue, black, red, etc. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc461881/
Necklace - Uzbekistan - Surxondaryo Province - Boysun Peoples Festival Outfit
Bead Necklace. "choker" style bead necklace composed of sections of orange and black horizontal strands interspersed with diamond-shaped motifs of white, orange, green, yellow, and reddish brown. Below the main section is a "fringe, consisting of white beads forming a narrow net, then bands of red and orange, then fringe of blue, yellow, black, white, red, green, and ending in shells, glass beads, etc. Large circular button clasp. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc461789/
Neiman Marcus Cap
Cap of blue felt. Designed as a modified baseball cap, the domed felt crown has a semi-circular visor at front. On front side of crown is top-stitched decoration in white yarn of outlines enclosing "N" and "M". Hat is unlined, with inner blue grosgrain ribbon hatband. Retailer's tag: "Made in England expressly for / Neiman-Marcus" With sticker: "100% Wool" With original "Sample" tag labeled "C407" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc305379/
D'Orsay Pumps
Pair of D'Orsay pumps of black faille. Large fabric rosette applied at vamp, set with rhinestones. Heel tapers to base. Retailer's label stamped inside: "Chandler's" and "French Room / Originals" Partly illegible marks inside: ".... 4 1/2 B 2984 / 92774 - 213W" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc87001/
D'Orsay Pumps
Pair of D'Orsay pumps of pink leather. The shoes are designed as modified open-toe D'Orsay pumps, with cut-away sides. Across instep are three wide leather bands; sides of shoe are cut away on a curve which comes up and creates the back of the shoe. The high heel is covered with the same leather, and tapers slightly to base. Designer's label: "design by / Evins" Retailer's label: "Neiman Marcus" Handwritten inside: "7 1/2 B Zelda / 1224-612 / 507 641" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc87023/
D'Orsay Pumps
Pair of D'Orsay pumps of tan leather. The shoes are designed with a rounded toe. Toebox and heels are of tan leather, with three parallel slits across toebox at vamp, outlined in stitching. One strap runs from heels to secure around ankle, and attaches to strap extending from vamp, creating a T-strap. Ankle strap fastens with small rectangular gold metal buckle. 2 1/2" high heel taper to base. Stamped inside: "Salvatore / Ferragamo / Florence / Made in Italy" Stamped on sole: "Made in Italy" Handwritten on strap: "TU5A4T2054232 72AA 55AM" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc86965/
D'Orsay Pumps
Pair of D'Orsay pumps of gray leather. The shoes are designed with pointed toes, and cut-away sides. Toebox has a deep "v" cut at throat of instep, edged with red as is the platform of the shoe. From the point of the cut extends back a t-strap which fastens around the ankle of wearer with a small buckle. 3 1/2" high stiletto heel covered with same gray leather. Stamped inside: "Charles Jourdan / Paris / Made in France" Accompanied by original Charles Jourdan shoebox. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc115005/
D'Orsay Pumps
Pair of D'Orsay pumps of pink leather. The shoes have cut-away sides and rounded toes. The toebox and heel uppers of pink leather, with pink leather strap from heels to secure around ankle with small oval gilt metal buckle. 3 1/4" high stacked wooden heel tapers to base. Stamped leather label inside: "Joan & David Too / Made in Italy" Stamped on sole: "Made in Italy / Vero Cuoio / 8 1/2" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc86963/