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  Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
 Decade: 1940-1949
 Collection: Texas Fashion Collection
Calotte Hat
Calotte of black felt with brown mink trim around front and sides. Quilted crown. Black grosgrain inner hatband; unlined. Retailer's label on inside hatband: "The Fair / Fort Worth" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114945/
Calotte Hat
Calotte style hat of maroon straw trimmed with grosgrain ribbon. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114737/
Calotte Hat
Calotte style hat in muted pink velvet. Crown has narrow 1" down-turned brim, trimmed with velvet flowers and pink ostrich feathers. Netting of same color as trim. One large, clear rhinestone on side of hat. Elastic band for securing hat to wearer's head. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114961/
Calotte Hat
Calotte style hat of gold lamé fabric. Hat could also be called a modified turban. Upturned brim with large, circular, red rhinestone surrounded by white rhinestones as trim. Same trim of large, circular, red rhinestone surrounded by white rhinestones on right side of hat. Lined in black fabric with black grosgrain headband. Retailer's label on inside headband: "Titche Goettinger Co. / Dallas" Designer's label on inside headband: "Sally Victor / 18 East 53rd St." digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114971/
Calotte Hat
Calotte of black straw cloth. White fabric rosebuds and daisies with green leaves form headband as trim over small brim in front. Edge of hat trimmed in black velvet. Black veil gathers to velvet ribbons on ends to form tie for securing hat to head. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114970/
Calotte Hat
Calotte style of off white felt with two bands that over-cross twice. Narrow upturned brim. Crown is covered in brown net which goes under hat bands to become veil in front. Hatpins with triangular heads of matching felt attach veil to hat. Spray of brown coque feathers as trim on right. Red grosgrain ribbon inner hatband. Hatpin with white pearl head attached to designer's label on inside hatband. Unlined. Stamp on inside crown illegible. Designer's label on inside hatband: "Chandra" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114957/
Calotte Hat
Calotte style hat of navy blue wool felt. Right side extends with a strip of felt curling downward then upward to a point trimmed with a strand of pears, gold leaves, and blue/green bugle beads. Unlined with a blue grosgrain hatband. Designer's label on inside hatband: "Ginette Robert / de Paris" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114958/
Cartwheel Hat
Black cartwheel hat. The low, domed crown and wide circular brim are made of black woven horsehair and stiff veiling, with wire to stiffen the edges. The brim is overlaid with a wider second brim of net and wire. Brim is "off-center", wider at front of hat than back. Around base of crown is a band of black cording, tied into a bow at back and with trailing ends. The inside base of the crown is lined with black grosgrain ribbon. One pin with black head is with hat to secure it. Label sewn into inner band: "Sally Victor / 18 East 53rd St." A second label with handwritten number "1655" is sewn in near designer's label. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30042/
Cartwheel Hat
Cartwheel hat of brown straw. Wide brimmed with open crown. Two accordion folded, brown grosgrain pieces of trim with trailing tail as decoration. Retailer's label: "Neiman-Marcus / Dallas" Union label attached to retailer's label. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114901/
Cartwheel Hat
Cartwheel hat of black velvet with small, flat crown. Wide brim is covered with black feathers radiating from crown. Elastic band for securing hat to wearer's head. Designer's label: "Edward Paine / New York" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114892/
Cartwheel Hat
Cartwheel hat of natural colored straw. Brim is wider in front than on back. Trimmed with hatband of wide, black grosgrain ribbon that forms bow in back. Edge of brim trimmed in black grosgrain. Unlined. Retailer's label on inside hatband: "Neiman-Marcus / Dallas" Union label number 852534 to left of retailer's label on inside hatband. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114902/
Cloche
Hat of cotton batik. Styled as a cloche-form turban, the domed crown is constructed of gathered/pleated and wrapped cotton fabric with batik design in beige/brown and blue on white ground. There is no brim. The hat is lined in cream satin, and has an inner hatband of brown grosgrain ribbon along the inside lower edge of the crown. Maker's label sewn to inner hatband: "Marcelle Rousseau / Dallas". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39089/
Cloche Hat
Cloche-style hat of tan straw cloth with pear green velvet ribbon around crown and bows on back. Unlined with pear green grosgrain inner hatband. Retailer's label on inside hatband: "Millinery Salon / Pfeifers / of Arkansas" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114910/
Coat
Coat of black wool and chinchilla fur. The full-length black wool coat is tailored to fit at waist and flares out at skirt. Long sleeves, and center front opening with 8 circular buttons covered with same black cloth, and 3 hook-and-loops spaced along the opening. The coat has a Peter Pan collar of brown and taupe striped fur identified as chinchilla. From the hips down to the hem is trimmed with matching fur, arranged so the stripes run horizontally around the skirt of the coat. The coat is fully lined in black cloth. Single retailer's label at inside back of collar: "Neiman-Marcus / Dallas". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30101/
D'Orsay Pumps
Pair of brown suede D'Orsay Pumps. The shoes have brown suede rounded toe box and heel area, but are open at sides to the sole. Small inverted V cut at front creating "peep-toe" effect. On top of vamp is sewn on brown suede "tie" forming the effect of a bow. Brown suede ankle strap. Thick 3 1/2" high spike heel covered in brown suede. Marked inside heel of both shoes: "17061-1 / 6 S / 11310X"; Stamped on sole of both shoes: "Pandora / Footwear" The D'Orsay Pumps style of shoes is named after Count d'Orsay, a 19th century leader of French Society. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30078/
Ensemble - Jacket and Skirt
Ensemble consisting of jacket and skirt. The fitted black velvet jacket is encrusted with gold braid/ribbon in a lattice/trellis pattern over the entire surface, with added buttons, cabochons, beads, etc. lavishly sewn over the surface. The jacket has a no collar, and short capped sleeves. From the natural waist flares a peplum. The jacket has a center front closure of hooks-and-eyes. Unlined, it has built-in shoulder pads. No label in jacket. The accompanying straight skirt is full-length, of heavy black crepe. Center back zipper closure with hook-and-eye at waistband. Designer's label inside skirt at side seam: "Adrian / custom", along with a second label, typed on white grosgrain ribbon, sewn in: "Neiman Marcus 417 / Size 12". This garment reflects Adrian's celebration of the lifting of wartime restrictions on types and quantities of materials and trimmings that could be used in making clothes. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30229/
Fedora
Hat of gray felt. The hat is styled as a man's fedora. The crown is of gray felt, canted backwards, with flattened top which is sunken-in. Brim slants down in front and turns up in back, and is quilted with concentric stitching. Remains of threads and holes indicate hat originally had some form of band around the base of the crown. Hat is unlined, with inner hatband of steel blue gray grosgrain ribbon inside base of crown. Affixed to inner hatband is black elasticized cord to secure hat to wearer's head. Maker's label sewn to inner hatband: "Valerie / Hat / Paris - New York", with size label sewn to edge of maker's label: "22 1/2" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39045/
Fedora Hat
Fedora style hat of brown felt with brown satin ribbon as trim around crown. Unlined. Retailer's label: "Knox / New York" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114913/
Fedora Hat
Fedora style hat of gray felt. The crown is of gray felt, canted backwards, with flattened top which is sunken-in. Brim slants down in front and turns up in back, and is quilted with concentric stitching. Remains of threads and holes indicate hat originally had some form of band around the base of the crown. Unlined, with inner hatband of steel blue gray grosgrain ribbon inside base of crown. Affixed to inner hatband is black elasticized cord to secure hat to wearer's head. Maker's label sewn to inner hatband: "Valerie / Hat / Paris - New York" Size label sewn to edge of maker's label: "22 1/2" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc276994/
Gloves
Glove of pale blue-gray cotton with green undertone. Hands have seams on outside; running stitch of same color; wrists widen and dip in V shape on thumb side; pinkie finger side of wrist features a large scalloped edge. Label sewn in right glove: "Gloves / Designed by / Lilly Dache", with "7" in a circle indicating size. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc38130/
Halo Hat
Pamela or halo style hat of natural colored straw cloth. Crown ringed with brown silk organza roses. Edge of brim covered with natural colored grosgrain. One hatpin with black, teardrop shaped head. Elastic band for securing hat to wearer's head. Unlined. Retailer's label on inside hatband: "Henrys / Dallas" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114900/
Hat
Hat of black felt. The low, domed crown of black felt is ornamented with a double-spray of black feathers at front. The brim, also of black felt, is turned up at front and turned down at back. The underside of the brim, which shows at front, is lined in black lace embellished with tiny black sequins and beads (jet?). The hat is unlined, with an inner hatband of black grosgrain ribbon. Attached to inner hatband is a small black plastic comb to secure hat to wearer's head. Maker's label sewn to inner hatband: "Grace Nugent / Los Angeles, Calif." Supplier's logo mark of Merrimac De Luxe Fur Felt stamped to inside of crown. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39152/
Hat
Hat of red felt. The crown is of red felt, with sloping sides, and a a recessed flat top center panel. The wide brim is also of red felt, overlaid with a wide pleated band of red grosgrain ribbon which is attached by an inter-woven thin band of the red felt. The hat is unlined, with an inner red grosgrain ribbon hatband inside the base of the crown, and with a bow of red felt at the back, underside, of the brim. A thin black elastic cord is attached to the inner band, to secure hat to wearer's head. Designer's label sewn to inner hatband: "Edward Paine / New York" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39158/
Hat
Hat of beige fur felt. The high, domed crown is of beige fur felt, wrapped by a wide silk satin ribbon woven in a plaid of olive green, orange, yellow, red, and tan. The ribbon extends for a significant distance off of the back of the hat to become streamers, and is held at the back of the crown by a circular conch of white shell. The brim is of the same fur felt, set off-center, with wider sections at front/right and shallower sections at back/left. All edges turn up, with a higher area at front/right. The hat is unlined, retaining much of the pelt on the underside of the brim and inside the base of the crown. Manufacturer's(?) marks inside crown, partly illegible. Intended for daytime wear, the hat is styled after the "Aussie" type hats worn by Australian troops during World War II. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39131/
Hat
Hat of pink straw. The open crown is of woven pink straw, as is the wide oval brim. At the front of the hat is a cluster of artificial flowers in pink velvet and green fabric. The hat is unlined, with two inner hatbands of grosgrain ribbon at the base of the crown - one band pink, the other of cream. Designer's label sewn to inner hatband: "3410 Oak Lawn / Bernie A. Cahn / Dallas, Tex" Accompanied by a single short hatpin with a tan straw woven head. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39162/
Hat
Hat of navy blue straw. The cylindrical crown is flattened at top. Around the sides of the crown are wide band of grosgrain ribbon, almost as wide as the side of the crown. The ribbon is embellished with maroon red satin "dots", affixed to the ribbon. At the side, towards the back, the ribbon has two short trailing ends extending outwards. The brim is very narrow, of the same straw as the crown. The hat is lined with dark blue mesh, and has an inner hatband of dark blue grosgrain ribbon around the inside base of the crown. Maker's label sewn to inner hatband: " Mr. D' " The hat is accompanied by one short hatpin with a faux tear-drop shaped pearl head. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39167/
Hat
Hat of white straw. The low, domed crown is of finely woven white straw, encircled around the base with a wide band of red velvet ribbon, trimmed with gold braid along top edge. At the back, left side, the ribbon has an extended trailing end. At the front, the gold braid runs down the velvet ribbon in two strands, and crosses the brim to attach to a red velvet heart shape which is embellished with borders of pearls and braid, and a central heart shape made of gold bullion braid. The brim of the hat is of matching straw, curling slightly up at edge. Along the front half of the hat is a fine brown veiling. The hat is unlined, with an inner hatband of red grosgrain ribbon around the inside lower edge of the crown. Retailer's label sewn to inner hatband: "Pfeifers / of Arkansas". A second label is sewn to the side of the retailer's label, with the initials "ADJ" within a rectangle, and the initials "[illeg]SC" below. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39168/
Hat
Hat of gray felt. Styled similarly to a fedora, the hat has a high cylindrical crown with the top of the crown sunken in slightly. Around the base of the crown is a band of dark blue/gray grosgrain ribbon, with a bow at side. The medium-width brim slants down slightly at front, and turns up slightly at back. Hat is unlined, with an inner hatband of dark blue/gray grosgrain ribbon at inside base of crown. Manufacturer's label sewn to inner hatband: "Norma's / Creations / Dallas". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39166/
Hat
Hat of black felt. Styled as a tricorne, the crown is of black felt, flattened at top. The wide brim is set off-center to the crown, with more of the brim at sides and front than back. The brim is curled up and in at sides and back, forming a triangular shape, with point at the front. The hat is unlined, with an inner hatband of black grosgrain ribbon along inside bottom edge of crown. Attached to the inner hatband is an elastic cord to secure hat to wearer's head. Maker's label sewn to inner hatband: "Jacqueline / Dallas". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39081/
Hat
Hat of purple felt. The low, circular crown is mostly flattened, with a slightly undulating surface. Around the crown is a wide band of turquoise crushed silk jersey held in place by crossing bands of fuchsia pink and dark blue purple yarn. The wide, flat oval brim is set just slightly off-center to the crown, giving a wider brim in front than back. The hat is unlined, with an inner hatband of purple blue grosgrain ribbon around the inside base of the crown. Designer's label sewn to inner hatband: "Henry's / Originals / Dallas". This hat was designed to be worn with a suit designed by Adrian. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39127/
Hat
Hat of gray fur felt. The derby style hat is made of a single piece of stiffened gray fur felt. The low, domed crown is encircled near the base by a band of black grosgrain ribbon, with a bow at back. The 2" wide brim curves upwards at edges. Hat is unlined, and has a band of black grosgrain ribbon inside at base of crown. Attached to the inner ribbon is a small plastic comb to secure the hat to wearer's head. Designer's label sewn to inner ribbon: "Lilly / Daché / Paris New York / 78 East 56th Street, N.Y." digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39147/
Hat
Hat of natural-colored straw. The domed crown is of patterned woven straw, forming a lace effect. Around the base of the crown is a wide band of light brown grosgrain ribbon, with a bow and trailing ends. The wide brim, of matching straw, curves upwards. The hat is unlined, with an inner hatband of light brown grosgrain ribbon around inside lower edge of the crown. There are no labels or tags in the hat. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39172/
Hat
Hat of navy blue gabardine. Based on a modified top-hat design, the cylindrical soft crown is slightly "crushed". The brim, of the same material, turns up in front and down in back. At back of brim/crown is a navy blue faille bow with trailing ribbons. The crown is lined in white satin, and there is a black grosgrain ribbon inner hatband. Attached inside crown at back is label: "Margie Webb designs / California Accessories". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39242/
Hat
Lady's gray felt hat. Styled along the lines of a fedora, the gray felt crown is basically cylindrical with dished top and some shaping to provide a front "prow". Set at top edge of crown at back is a bow of matching gray felt ribbon. Around the base of the crown is a wide band of matching grosgrain ribbon as hatband. The shallow brim is set off-center, wider at front and sides than back. Brim curves down. Inside of hat is unlined, but has inner hatband of cream grosgrain ribbon. Maker's stamp on inner hatband: [Coat of arms] Stetson / Fifth Avenue" Retailer's stamp on inner hatband: "W. A. Green Co. / Dallas, Tex." Size tag sewn to inner hatband: "22 1/2" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39102/
Hat
Hat of olive green/gray felt. The low, domed crown is of a drab olive green/gray felt, divided into four quadrants. Around the base of the crown is a band of similarly colored grosgrain ribbon, with bow at right side. The brim is of the same felt, and slopes downwards at front, and turns upwards at back. The hat is unlined, with an inner hatband of black grosgrain ribbon at inside base of crown. Attached to the inner band is an elasticized cord to help secure hat to wearer's head. Stamped in gold on inner hatband: "Made in France especially for / Best & Co" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39044/
Hat
Hat of burgundy red velvet. Sailor-style hat has 2 1/2" high crown of burgundy velvet, with narrow, 1 1/2" flat brim of same. The side of the crown is wrapped in magenta colored ostrich feathers, which cover the sides of the crown and the brim. At front of hat is half-veil of maroon mesh accented with chenille dots. Inside of crown lined with green floral-pattern lace, with dark maroon velvet around sides of crown, and under brim. Around inside base of crown is an inner headband of dark red maroon grosgrain ribbon. Designer's label sewn to inner hatband: "Chanda". Accompanied by a short hatpin mounted with large simulated pearl at head. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39204/
Hat
Hat of gray felt. The cylindrical gray felt crown is very slightly domed, and is set off-center to the brim. The brim, of matching felt, turns up, forming a deep, steep-sided bowl around the crown. The edge of the brim turns in, and is sewn down forming a seam around the inside edge of the "bowl". At left front of the brim is a bow of matching felt. The hat is unlined, with an inner hatband of gray grosgrain ribbon around the inside base of the crown. Stamped inside the crown: "Body made in Italy". Maker's hand-sewn(?) label affixed to inner hatband: "Jo Bailey / Hats". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39237/
Hat
Hat of black velvet. The flat crown is surmounted by an arrangement of artificial lily-of-the-valley, with green cloth leaves and cloth and wire flowers/stems. From the back of the hat descends a black velvet snood to catch up the wearer's hair. Designer's label sewn into back of snood: "Yvonne Boutin / 510 Madison Ave, N.Y." digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39230/
Hat
Hat of brown felt. The "safari-style" hat has a domed crown of brown felt, around the base of which is tied a thin band of matching felt, with bow and trailing ends at front. The brim, of matching felt, slopes downwards at front and turns upwards at back. The hat is unlined, with an inner hatband of red grosgrain ribbon around the inside base of the crown. Sewn to inner hatband is retailer's label: "Neiman-Marcus". Accompanied by one short hatpin with simulated black tear-drop pearl head. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39229/
Hat
Hat of brown felt. Styled similarly to an Alpine hat, the crown is of dark brown felt, with a triangular cross-section and flattened and "sunken" top. Around the base of the crown is a band of light brown grosgrain ribbon with one trailing end extending along brim to edge. The medium brim curves downwards at front, and turns upwards at back. The hat is unlined, with an inner hatband of light brown grosgrain ribbon at inside base of crown. Label sewn to inner hatband: "Jacqueline / Dallas". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39090/
Hat
Hat of ultramarine blue felt. Based on a top hat, the cylindrical high crown has an undulating upper edge. Small brim curls up at front and sides, but curls down at back, ending in a point. Around base of crown is wide blue grosgrain ribbon which trails off back of hat. Inside of brim lined with black grosgrain ribbon. A thin black elastic strap goes around the back of the head to secure the hat. Label sewn into inner band: "Walter Florell / 29 East 53rd New York" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114797/
Hat
Hat of brown felt with beaver trim. Front resembles toque style and is covered in fur. Crown is a scull cap of brown felt with extension in back and fan-shaped, piped stitching. Free form bow of felt covered wire at front. Retailer's label: "Neiman-Marcus / Dallas" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114729/
Hat
Hat of dark brown suede with brown mink trim on heart shaped, upturned brim. Two pins with square shaped suede covered ends. Comb on inside, front hatband for securing hat to wearer's head. Retailer's label: "Neiman-Marcus / Dallas" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114847/
Hat
Bandeau style hat of black fox fur with black velvet ribbon ties and velvet lining. Retailer's label: "Saks - Fifth Avenue / Custom Made" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114850/
Hat
Hat of dark brown felt. Wired, rolled brim with one black and one light brown pom pom as trim. Hat has two wired triangular shaped extensions at left and right rim for securing hat to head as well as elastic band. Designer's label on inside hat band: "Madame Suzy / 5, Rue de la Paix / Paris" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114857/
Hat
Peaked Dutch-type bonnet of rough black straw with two bands of embroidered organdy and lace across forehead. Elastic band for securing hat to wearer's head. Unlined. Designer's label: "été 1940 / Schiaperelli / 21, Place Vendôme Paris" Label under designer's label: "Made in France" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114860/
Hat
Afternoon hat of crushed and draped velvet. Brim of dark purple, crown of wine. Purple brim extends to point at side. Self cording trim. Elastic band for securing hat to wearer's head. Lined in wine colored silk. Designer's label on inside hatband: "Marguerite & Leonie / 4 . Rue des Carucines" Label attached below designer's label: "Made in France" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114881/
Hat
Hat of black felt with two bands of wide, wine red colored velvet ribbon off left and right sides meeting at center and extending off back of crown. Black coque feather trim at back. Retailer's label: "Northridge / Inc. / 1 W. 57th St. / New York" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114884/
Hat
Hat of dark blue wool felt with pillbox-style crown and stiffened downward brim. Trimmed with wide grosgrain ribbon and shaped net. Designer's label: "Lilly / Daché / Paris New York" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39221/
Hat
Hat of fine black balibuntal straw lined with black velvet. Medium high crown with black velvet band typing in large soft bow. Brim uneven, very narrow in back, widening at sides and fullest at left front. Headband of black velvet with large bow of same side back. Retailer's label: "Neiman-Marcus" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc277077/