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  Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
 Decade: 1890-1899
 Year: 1890
 Collection: Texas Fashion Collection
Bed Jacket
Bed jacket of black openwork. Hip length-jacket is formed of vertical panels of black braid open work net overlaid/appliqu├ęd with black braid in scrolls and arabesques, the whole is lined/backed with black silk. The panels are constructed to create princess seamed segments for shape/fit. Elbow-length sleeves, V-neckline at front with two hook & eye closures on center front. Neckline and upper part of opening trimmed with off-white eyelet lace ruffle. Two black braided circular button-like applied elements at center front, one at either side of opening.
Dress top/bodice of black silk brocade in "tree branch" geometric design with lavender silk vestee front over-laid with black point d'esprit in pattern of squares. Modified leg of mutton sleeve with black passementerie trim. Stand-up collar of matching lavender silk covered in black lace. Collar and vestee close on left with hook & eyes. Black fabric lining of bodice is boned and closes at center front with hook & eyes in which hooks and eyes alternate sides. 29" waist.
Pair of lady's boots or "High Button Shoes" of black leather. The shoes, designed with pointed toes, lace closed along center front with laces 13 holes high. At top of toe box is decorative seaming creating a "V" shape. The low, stacked heels styled as a modified Louis heel, with rounded sides and back, tapering at center then flaring very slightly at base, and with curved front section. Sole of black leather. Lined in cream cloth and black leather. Partly illegible retailer's(?) mark stamped inside uppers: "Linkhau... / Memphis Tenn" Handwritten notation inside uppers: "236 6788"
Capelet of black silk satin. The short cape is trimmed along hem with 3-1/2" band of pleated organza and band of jet beads. Standing neckline trimmed in pleated organza. Center front opening with closure of five hook & eyes, with bow of black silk satin moire with trailing ends attached to right side of opening at throat. Shoulder yoke bordered in tightly gathered narrow band of black organza. Bright purple moire silk lining.
Two-tiered capelet of midnight blue/black velvet and off-white lace. Capelet extends to about small of back, and has high, standing collar trimmed in dense ruff of tightly gathered of black chiffon. Around throat, along both sides of center front opening, around hem, and on edges and hem of the wide tier (7" at center front, 8" over shoulders) is wide band of off-white floral and scroll lace, placed as an applique along edges. Lined in brown fabric. Designer's label at center back neckline: "Mme. Josse / 3 / Boulevard des Italiens / Paris"
Child's Dress
Child's dress of navy blue calico with rose colored paisley print. Long sleeves with caps at shoulders. Empire waistline; full length. Standing collar trimmed with ivory lace. Center front opening with 6 circular brass, concave buttons with red painted centers decorated with silver circles and a star. Back panel in Watteau style and forms a small train. Upper part of dress lined in blue cotton with small white flowers.
Deer Hoof Shoes
Pair of "Deer Hoof" shoes for bound feet. Tiny heeled shoes of dark navy silk, the uppers with multicolored floral embroidery at top and sides, and cloud-form patterns of couched gold thread around heels. Edged at top with blue silk ribbon. The shaped heels are of white leather.
No Description
Folding fan with tortoise-shell frame. Sticks and loop of tortoise shell; possibly for brise style fan; missing leaf or ribbon. Measurements: 39 cm extended; guard 21 cm long x 3 cm wide
Girl's Dress
Girl's dress of calico in print of blue, green and gold flowers on red background. Square neckline trimmed in lace with three rows of narrow, black velvet ribbon. Elbow-length sleeves trimmed in matching lace and velvet ribbon. Full length, with dropped waist. Center front opening with five mother-of-pearl buttons and barred buttonholes; snap at bottom of opening. Bodice lined in muslin; sleeves and skirt unlined. Tag at center back neckline: "105"
Day/house hat of creme silk. Wide, wired brimmed hat with gold stitching throughout. Wide, low crown with ruffled brim. Pink flowers under and above brim. Large bow of self at back.
Picture Hat
Picture hat of light pink silk taffeta and feathers. The domed crown is totally covered by sprays of off-white ostrich feathers and pale pink veiling. At one side is a metal buckle with rhinestones. The wide brim is wired at outer edge and covered with the same silk. The whole is swathed in veiling which also hangs down to secure below face of wearer. Crown of hat is lined in off-white silk, the brim is lined with the same pink silk.
Pair of shoes of black leather. Designed with pointed toes, the black leather uppers of the shoes are cut back at sides of vamp to create a "tongue" which is of pointed outline. Applied to vamp is an openwork stamped ornamental metal buckle simulating cut steel, with black patina. Modified Louis heel.
Pair of shoes. Black leather and tan suede uppers, leather at toe box and extending back, suede along heel and quarter. Cut-outs at vamp where suede and leather join. 2 1/4" high Louis XV style heel covered in tan suede. Marked inside left shoe: "240 / 8623 / 2675" Remains of gilt stamped label inside right shoe: "BENCH"
Pair of shoes of brown leather. In the "Oxford" style, somewhat pointed toes, with decorative stitching across vamp and sides of upper near heel. Shoes lace up at center front, with 4 holes per side. Brown laces. Modified Louis heel, rounded at sides and back.
Pair of heeled shoes of ivory kid leather. The shoes are designed with pointed toes, rounded at the tips. Vamp with beading decoration in white/crystal beads in patterns of scrolls, laurel, stars, etc. Modified Louis heel covered in same leather. Retailer's label: "Made / for / Kahn's / in / Dallas"
Pair of party slippers of pale pink silk satin. Shoes have rounded toes, and wide self strap across instep, which secures with domed coral-colored button on outside edge. Strap, vamp, and upper edges of shoe are edged in slightly darker pink silk ribbon. 1 3/4" high modified Louis or cuban heel. Marked inside shoe: "3-C" (size?)
Pair of lady's slippers of brown kid leather with jet beading. Designed with pointed toes, the uppers are of brown kid leather, heavily decorated with radiating patterns of jet beads, over toe, around sides and throughout openwork that decorates throat and sides of shoes. Originally had sewn-in ties across the instep. Lined in black leather. Soles of black leather. High heels are of modified French style, sometimes called "spool" style, with rounded sides and back, flaring to base, and with curved front. There are no marks or labels in the shoes. The brown ribbons in photographs are not original, are to hold the shoe closed in place of original ribbons, now missing.
Sunbonnet of brown linen. Made of a plain weave with both white and brown threads, the hat has pasteboard staves within the brim, a crenelated buttoning crown and long tail. The crown and tail are separate pieces, sewn together at neck seam, with the tail fastening to the sides of the brim by 3 off-white buttons on each side. The tail is semi-circular in shape, and the narrow chin ties are hemmed by hand. Poke-style bonnets are generally those that have brims stiffened either through quilting or plain starched fabric. Sunbonnets that rely on staves for brim support are not considered poke-style sunbonnets. The TFC thanks Rebecca Jumper Matheson for her research on this object.
Sunbonnet of white cotton broadcloth. The hat has a square-shaped brim with an outer layer of off-white weave material with a plain-weave backing, and crocheted trim. The brim is thin and does not appear to contain much stiffening material or starch. The crenelated crown fastens to brim by a series of 9 buttons on top and 2 buttons on each side. The crown is trimmed with the same crocheted trim as is the brim. The crown and tail are of a made of a single length of fabric. The TFC thanks Rebecca Jumper Matheson for her research on this object.
Wedding Boots
Pair of lady's wedding boots of ivory silk or satin. Designed with pointed toes, the short boots fasten up the outer sides of each shoe with eleven buttons. The button lining is of ivory leather. The remaining lining is of ivory cloth with the upper portion silk or satin. Natural light brown leather sole; Heels are in the style of a Louis heel, rounded at sides and back, concave and flaring slightly to base. Handwritten notation on inner lining: "59576". Stamped on sole near heel: "6587".