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  Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
 Decade: 1960-1969
 Year: 1968
 Collection: Texas Fashion Collection
Pair of brown suede boots. Almost knee-high, the boots are constructed as slip-on rounded-toe shoes or moccasins with added segments on the quarter to create the length of the boots. At the top, the suede of the boots is folded over outwards forming a pocket for a drawstring around top and a band of suede fringe around the outside of the boot. Indistinct trademark/logo stamped on sole. Illegible stamped mark inside boots. Referred to as "Squaw Boots", these were worn by the donor who acquired them in 1968 from the Fishing Bridge Store, in Yellowstone National Park.
Coat of red wool knit. Double-breasted with 10 self covered circular buttons and 5 bound buttonholes. Full length. Bracelet-length set-in sleeves with white satin, notched cuffs. Notched collar with white satin covered lapels. Vertical welt pockets at sides. Lined in matching white silk. Designer's label at center back neckline: "Norman Norell / New York"
Coat of pale yellow whipcord wool. Jewel neckline with 1-3/4" mandarin collar. Long, set-in sleeves. Single breasted with two large 1-1/2" smooth, circular black buttons above and 2 buttons below waistline. 3-1/2" wide matching, attached belt with matching black button. Bound buttonholes on coat and belt. Seven inch wide black dyed fox fur trimmed hemline. Vertical, single-welt pockets at each side. Lined in white silk satin. Designer's label at inside back collar: "Norman Norell / New York"
Coat of oatmeal heather wool. Double breasted with 14 circular, beige plastic buttons, 7 functioning with bound buttonholes reinforced with inside large covered snap. Two vertical welt pockets. Long set-in sleeves with three smaller matching, functioning buttons and bound buttonholes. Lined in light beige silk crepe. Designer's label at center back neckline: "Norell" Retailer's label below designer's label: "Lou Lattimore /' Dallas"
Coat of tiger fur with sable (fox?) fur trim. Mid-length. Long sleeves with 4" sable cuffs. Shawl collar of sable extends down center front opening to 10" border around hemline. Fully lined in brown silk; embroidered initials "DMM" at right side opening. Lining has 11" pleated brown silk "skirt" with brown velvet seam. Retailer's label at center back neckline: "Bergdorf / Goodman / On the Plaza / New York" Retailer's label beneath main retailer's label (part handwritten): "Bergdorf / Goodman / On the Plaza * New York / M. M.G. Mann / Date 12/68 No. 1851"
Coat Dress
Daytime coat dress. a) Coat dress of red/orange gaberdine wool. Single breasted with 7 mother-of-pearl buttons in circular gold-tone mounts with bound buttonholes. Above knee length. Jewel neckline. Neckline and right side of opening are of navy gaberdine wool. Long, set in sleeves having cuffs of navy gaberdine wool with two smaller matching buttons and bound buttonholes. Two large patch pockets at left and right are also trimmed with matching navy bands across tops of pockets. Lined in red silk crepe. Designer's label at center back neckline: "Norell" Retailer's label at inside left seam: "Rich's / Specialty Shop" b) Webbed belt of matching navy gaberdine wool. Three inches wide with rectangular self covered buckle. Reverse of buckle frame stamped "Astor".
Coat (Part of Ensemble)
Coat of black wool. Mid-length coat with cape collar, and double-breasted front closure with two rows of 5 circular black plastic buttons. Exaggerated cuffs and front pockets. Lined in black cloth. Designer's label sewn in collar at center back: "Norell" Retailer's label sewn inside at right side: "Sakowitz / Houston" Part of an ensemble which includes a dress of black wool and a belt, photographed separately.
Cocktail Dress
Cocktail dress of heavy blue/green aqua silk. Knee-length, with high standing collar and long sleeves which gather into zippered cuffs. Collar, sleeves, and hem with wide bands of mirrored rhinestone beads/sequins. Attached sash/belt at waist. Center-back zipper, with hook-and-eye at collar. Lined in lighter material of the same color. Designer's label sewn inside skirt: "Norman Norell / New York" Designer's model label (?) sewn inside skirt: "18101-180-12" Union label sewn inside skirt.
Cocktail Dress
Cocktail dress of gray silk jacquard with floral pattern of white daisies. Below knee length. Full skirt with two gores at front and two box pleats at center back. Cap sleeves. V-shaped neckline. Center back is V-shaped with zipper and hook & eye. Princess seaming. Pleat at shoulder joins bust darts and forms L-shape at natural waist and becomes tie at center front waist. Lined in light gray synthetic net with petersham of white grosgrain ribbon and hook & eye. Designer's label on center back seam near hem: "Adele Simpson" Retailer's label above designer's label: "Neiman-Marcus"
Day Coat
a) Day coat of silk and cotton blend in tan, green, purple, and pink stripes. Double breasted with 5 bound buttonholes. Open-ended collar and long sleeves with cuffs having 2 bound buttonholes. Patch pockets at sides. Lined in ivory silk. Combined designer/retailer label at center back neckline: "Norman Norell for Bonwit Teller" b) Belt of matching fabric with self-covered rectangular buckle.
Day Dress
A) Day dress of mustard yellow heavy knit. Three-seamed raglan short-sleeves. Knee length. Modified mandarin neckline. Center back zipper with hook & eye. Patch pockets at sides. Lined in matching mustard yellow silk satin. Combined designer/retailer label on inside left seam under lining: "Norman Norell for Bonwit Teller" B) Belt of self with 6 rows of quilted top stitching. 1-1/4 inches wide. Rectangular slide buckle covered in self. Attached at back of dress.
Dress of turquoise colored sateen cotton. Sleeveless with square yoked bodice. Lines of horizontal top stitching over body of dress. Two front patch pockets. Center front decorative short, white, plastic zipper. Back zipper closure with hook & eye. Knee length, but hem has been removed. Designer's label at inside back zipper: "Courrèges / Paris / made in france" Style number stamped on designer's label:"0078019" Care instruction/fabric content tag attached to bottom of designer's label.
Dress of white linen (cotton?), the fabric with alternating square of double weave, plain squares and a "waffle weave". Knee length; A-line silhouette. Triangular inserts at side seams gradually widening toward hemline. In-seam pocket at side seams. Jewel neckline. Shaped armhole with cap sleeves. Center back lapped zipper. Fully lined in white silk. Designer label: "Rudy Gernreich" Retailer label: "Neiman-Marcus / Trophy Room"
Ensemble - Coat and Skirt
Ensemble. Coat and matching skirt (not shown) of woven upholstery-weight fabric with stylized floral and geometric designs in burgundy and blue/black on a creme ground. Coat is mid-length, flaring slightly to hem, with long sleeves and a center-front opening. The opening, hem, and cuffs are all trimmed in a curly "lamb's wool" died burgundy to match the pattern. Fully lined in burgundy silk(?) With separate sash/belt. Labels in coat: Designer's label "Anne Klein" with lion logo; Dallas, Texas retailer's label "Marie Leavell". Not shown is skirt in matching fabric, mid-length, with no trim.
Ensemble - Coat and Skirt
Ensemble of red wool knit coat with matching skirt. A) Coat of deep red wool knit. Double-breasted with 10 gold round buttons and bound buttonholes. Closure is reinforced with a large covered snap at inside neckline. Stand-up, mandarin style collar. Four patch pockets with flaps each have a smaller gold tone matching button with bound buttonhole. Below knee length. Long sleeves have two gold tone matching buttons at cuffs with bound buttonholes. Lined in red silk taffeta. Designer's label at inside back neckline: "Norell" Retailer's label at inside right: "Rich's / Specialty Shop" B) Skirt of deep red wool knit. Below knee length; A line. Left side zipper with large hook & eye on one-inch waistband. Lined in red silk taffeta. Label at inside front waist band: "Front".
Ensemble - Coat, Blouse, and Skirt
Ensemble. A) Coat of cream and taupe/brown herringbone wool. 3/4 length with deep fold-down, rounded collar. Four patch pockets with button flaps (2 at chest level and 2 at hip level). Double-breasted with 10 round-top taupe buttons and bound buttonholes. Long set-in sleeves with 5 button closing down sleeve ends. Lined in taupe silk. Designer's label at center back neckline: "Norell" Retailer's label at right inside seam: "Neiman-Marcus" Retailer's label at left inside seam: "Rich's / Specialty Shop" B) Skirt of cream and taupe/brown herringbone wool. Top of skirt is 4" band of silk; no waistband. Left side zipper with hook & eye. Knee-length. Lined in dark gray silk. Designer's label in lining near hem: "Norman Norell / New York" Union Label: "702651" Handwritten style number label: "18877 205-8". C) Blouse of brown wool knit. Long, fitted sleeves with zippers at sleeve ends. Stand-up, mandarin style collar. Zipper closure at center back.
Ensemble - Dress, and Belt
B) Shift style dress of black wool. Short set-in sleeves. Stand up collar. Below knee length. Side welt pockets and four belt loops of self. Center back zipper with hook & eye. Lined in black silk. Retailer's label at center back neckline: "Sakowitz / Houston" C) Belt of black leather. 3/4" wide with rectangular buckle covered in self. Stamped on back "12 127"
Ensemble - Dress and Stole
Ensemble. a) Dress of white linen. Bias cut bodice with one shoulder strap on left with 1/2" tie of self. Right side zipper. Slightly gathered skirt; below knee length. Lined in cream silk crepe. Combined designer's/retailer's label: "Norman Norell for Neiman-Marcus" b) Stole wrap of red silk linen with white linen on reverse. Rectangular, 33 cm x 146 cm.
Evening Dress
Evening dress of blue, aqua and white rayon/nylon blend brocade with gold metallic embroidery in flower and semi-circle motif. Knee-length. Center front zipper is hidden by ivory satin placket with 5 self-covered buttons. Double collar of brocade under and ivory satin upper. Short sleeves. Two patch pockets with flaps on front at sides. Princess seams. Inverted pleat in back starts at waistline; half belt band on back waistline is finished inside princess seams. Lined in blue rayon jacquard with "Mori Hanae" imprint. Designer's label at center back neckline: "(Japanese characters) / Hanae Mori" Retailer's label below designer's label: "Neiman-Marcus" Size "8" tag attached to center of base of designer label. Fiber content /care label above designer label.
Hat of light beige fur felt. Domed crown with wide, folded brim. Two bows of self under the back rim. Headband of light gray grosgrain ribbon. Unlined. Designer's label at inside headband: "Miss Dior / Created by / Christian Dior" Stamp on inside crown: "Helios / Body Made in Italy"
Men's Pants
Man's olive green cotton corduroy pants with no waistband or pockets. Metal hook front closure.
Men's Shirt
Men's button front bright pink. orange. blue and green multi-colored ocean print Irish cotton shirt. Wide dog's-ear collar. Long sleeved.
Minidress of grey ribbed polyester knit; bias cut. Sleeveless with wide armholes. A-line; knee length. Scoop neck front and back with cutout at center back of yoke. Slim silhouette; four panels with slit pockets at sides of center front panel. Zipper closure at back of left side panel. Lined in gray polyester. Designer's label at inside side seam: "Jon Haggins"
Poster Dress: "The Cat"
"The Cat" (aka "Pussy Cat") poster dress. Mini-dress of screen printed "paper" (75% rayon, 25% nylon? or tissue/rayon/wood pulp), of simple a-line shape, rounded neckline, sleeveless, with velcro opening at left shoulder. Velcro along left seam. Approx. knee-length. Unlined. Label has detached from center back inside neckline, held on hanger with safety pin. "London" Poster tm Dress" "Medium"
Pair of pumps of mottled light brown/tan reptile skin. The shoes are designed with a rounded toe and squared-off vamp/instep. The edge of the upper has a border of small holes backed with black leather. The thick, chunky heel is covered with a black reptile leather, and flares to the base. Designer's label stamped inside: "Andrew Geller" Retailer's label stamped inside: "Neiman-Marcus" Handwritten inside: "4 1/2 B / 628 380 / 461323G"
Pair of shoes of navy blue leather. The shoes are designed with square toes and dark leather uppers. A wide rectangular panel of navy blue simulated reptile skin extends from the toe, up the vamp, below an oval cut-out in the vamp, and up the instep to create a tongue. The 2 1/4" high heel is covered with same blue leather, and tapers to base. Maker's label stamped inside: "Esprit" Stamped inside: "Leather upper & Sole / Other Mat'ls Man-Made" Handwritten inside: "5 M 0320109 / A AA 37122 5"
Skirt Suit
Suit of gold silk gaberdine. a) Jacket of gold silk gaberdine. Single-breasted, waist-length jacket has notched collar. Long sleeves with one 7/8" button with bound button hole at lower edge. Two 7/8" buttons with bound buttonholes as closure. Lined in gold silk. Designer's label at back neckline: "Norman Norell / New York" Retailer's label at back neckline: "Marie Leavell" b) Skirt of gold silk gaberdine. Knee length; A-line; slightly gathered into 1" waistband. Two large front patch pockets. Left side zipper with two hook & eyes on waistband. Slits at side seams at hemline. Lined in gold silk. c) Webbed belt of same fabric attached to skirt. 1-3/4" wide. Self covered buckle. Stamp on reverse: "10 Norman Norell"
Skirt Suit
Two-piece wool suit in brown and cream wool twill check. a) Jacket of brown and cream wool twill check. Single breasted with three circular brown plastic buttons and bound buttonholes; notched collar. Long sleeves with three smaller matching, functional buttons and bound buttonholes. Side flap pockets with welts. Lined in brown silk. Designer's label at center back neckline: "Norell" b) Skirt of matching brown and cream wool twill check. A-line with 1-1/4 inch waistband. Center back opening with zipper and two hook & bars on waistband. Lined in brown silk.
Skirt Suit
Burgundy wool two-piece suit. A) Jacket of burgundy wool with notched shawl collar and long sleeves. Double-breasted with six plastic, black circular buttons at front in two rows of three and three bound buttonholes; large covered snap on inside neckline. Princess seaming. Each sleeve with a line of six buttons at cuff and bound buttonholes. Fully lined in burgundy fabric. Designer's label at center back neckline: "Norell" B) Skirt of same heavy burgundy wool with slight gathers into waistband. Above the knee length; A-line. Slit pocket on each side. Left side zipper closure hidden within pocket and concealed by three hook-and-eyes at top of pocket and four hook-and-eyes in waistband. Lined in burgundy fabric. Designer's label at center back: "Norman Norell / New York" Care label on side seam near zipper: "Do Not Use / Steam Iron" "Front" label to mark front of skirt
Skirt - Vest, Skirt, and Dickey
Suit/ensemble of maize-yellow linen(?) (Possibly blend), consisting of: A) Vest/Sleeveless jacket. Waist-length or slightly lower. Front opening, slightly off-center to left side, with three faux thick, circular, "nobbly", chunky buttons in false buttonholes on plaquet, secured with 6 hidden cloth-covered snaps. Princess seams. Spread collar. Fully lined in yellow silk(?). Designer's label at inside right front flap: "Geoffrey Beene". B) Skirt. Knee-length or slightly below. Narrow, slightly A-line due to darts and fitting at narrow waistband. Two hooks and snap on waistband at left, above zipper. Front with small gathers. Slit pockets at hips. Fully lined in yellow silk(?). Retailer's label at inside seam near hem: "Neiman-Marcus" C) Dickey of gray to black and dark ivory silk. Triangular shape, with collar, attaches with four hidden snaps, with dress weights sewn into lower point and to space slightly below throat. Printed in a pattern of patches of grey/black hatching on the dark ivory ground. No labels on garment.
Sling-Back Shoes
Pair of sling-back shoes of hand-painted leather. The shoes are designed with a slightly pointed toe, cut away beyond toe-box. The single strap fastens at outer edge with a gold buckle. The heel is a modified Spike heel, covered with matching leather. The leather used is painted with a pale blue background on which is an over-all pattern of scrolling framework in beige and dark green, with rosettes, flowers, quatrefoils, etc. in greens, pinks, blues, etc. Maker's label inside: "Herbert Levine / Fine Shoes" and "Hand Lasted" Retailer's label inside: "Neiman-Marcus" Handwritten inside: "6AAA 9214-4L2 / 32769"
Suit of black wool gaberdine. A) Jacket in tailored style. 4" notched labels. Patch pockets at sides. Two large covered snaps in front for closure. 3" belt attaches at sides and closes at center front with two flat black 1" buttons and bound buttonholes. Straight long sleeves with 4 smaller non-functioning matching buttons and bound buttonholes. White silk lining. Retailer's label at inside left near lapel: "Palm Beach / Martha / New York Miami Beach" Evidence of large label removed from center back neckline. B) Skirt. Slightly A-lined with slightly gathered at waist at 3" waistband. Midi length. Left side closure with 3 hooks & eyes and 8" plastic zipper. Lined in black silk. Designer's label at left side of lining near hem: "Norman Norell / New York" Union label attached to left side of designer's label.