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  Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
 Decade: 1950-1959
 Year: 1950
 Collection: Texas Fashion Collection
Bandeau Hat
Bandeau hat of black feathers. Dark maroon satin ribbon at center front and veil. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc277107/
Beret
Beret of light beige or cream colored angora wool. Machine knit, hand-finished. Italian import. Label sewn inside: "Made in Italy" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114845/
Calotte
Calotte. The hat has a conical crown of stiffened green net overlaid with green straw woven/plaited loops and with attached artificial cherries and leaves. The calotte (also spelled "calot") has a thin green velvet trim along base of crown. Label sewn into inner edge of crown: "Styled by / Coralie", with "Finlan" written on edge of label. Behind the Coralie label is a Union label. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30127/
Calotte Hat
Calotte style hat of brown straw cloth with brown veil. Left brim of hat circles to form a loop that folds under the right side of the hat. Designer's label with two set in rhinestones on inside of crown: "John Fredericks / New York" Vertical portion of designer's label: "Made in America" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39171/
Capulet Hat
Capulet style hat of red silk faille with 3 folds of self on either side. Red, slightly stiffened nose veil. Designers label: "MR. JOHN" Measurements: (Veil not included in measurements) L: 13 cm W: 49 cm H: 11 cm digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc277080/
Cloche
Cloche hat of fine light brown/tan straw. The domed crown of straw has a looped segment of woven straw "ribbon" attached at side, with trailing ends. The irregular brim, woven in one piece with crown, has an asymmetrical crease at side. The hat is unlined, with an inner hatband of off-white grosgrain ribbon. Designer's label sewn to inner hatband: "John Frederics 'Charmer'". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc38122/
Cocktail Hat
Hat of beaded, printed silk. The cocktail hat is of silk printed in an abstract foliage design in greens, reds, purples, yellows, white, and brown. It is heavily beaded, with small pale green square beads, oblong dark green beads, oblong and circular white beads, and tan flat sequins. All beads appear to be wooden. The crown is formed as an irregular dome, and has no brim. The hat is lined in gold cloth, and has two small plastic combs attached to either side of the inside of the crown to help secure the hat to the wearer's head. Designer's label sewn inside crown: "Irene of New York". Retailer's label sewn inside crown: "Neiman-Marcus / Salon" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39177/
Dress
Dress. The mid-length dress has a pink crepe under-dress/slip which is overlaid with a black net sheath embellished with lavish black bead-work in the forms of rose-heads forming a trellis and fan-shapes in the openings of the trellis. The dress is sleeveless, with a high boat neckline. At natural waist is an attached pink satin belt with bow in front. Center back zipper, with section of hooks-and-eyes at upper part. The dress is accompanied by a long rectangular pink chiffon scarf. There are two labels in the dress, the Retailer's label "Neiman-Marcus" sewn inside at waist to right of zipper, and maker's label sewn inside near top of under-dress on left of zipper "Made in British Crown / Colony Hong Kong". No labels on scarf. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30225/
Dress - Kutchi Group, Pashtun Peoples, Afghanistan.
Kutchi Dress of the Pashtun Peoples, Afghanistan. Full-length. Bodice of various fabrics and embellishments. Rounded neckline with slight standing/band collar of primarily yellow bead-work with blue bead squares containing red bead centers. "Collar" below neckline of pendant silver-colored coins. Shoulder areas of purple with primarily yellow stitching forming scroll-work. Front "bib" of dark red outlined with same bead-work as neckline, and sewn with 9 horizontal rows of green tear-drop shaped beads and a line of silver-colored coins. Center part of bodice of black fabric with all-over red reflective circles. Wide "waist" of dress with geometric bead-work band of white, green, red, blue, and orange, with band of small circular mirrors and two lower borders of fringe tipped with white and green beads, and lowest border of coins. Sleeves of dark green velvet with bands of rickrack of silver and gold, and stitching matching the shoulder areas. Edged with bead-work and with row of silver-colored coins. Skirt is full-length, and full, and is of dark blue/black fabric printed with white and grey pattern of small flower blossoms, paisley shapes, dots, leaves, etc. Hem of dress with wide embroidered band, upper section with horizontal band of squares of various colors (reddish, green, orange, pale green, purple), center band of yellow, and lower band of reddish/magenta. Unlined. No labels or tags. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc276981/
Ensemble - Nightgown and Robe
Ensemble consisting of a nightgown and robe of cream or pale peach nylon. Full-length robe with short sleeves and limp ruff collar. Opens down center front with hook-and-eye closure at waist and attached belt. Matching full-length nightgown is sleeveless, with wide straps. Nightgown opens at side with hook-and-eye closures and has string belt. Both pieces of the ensemble are fully accordion pleated on all parts. Robe has tag "Vanity Fair Nylon" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30066/
Evening Gown
Evening gown of heavily beaded beige silk satin. The bodice of the full-length gown has an empire waist, a wide scoop neckline, and is sleeveless. It has princess seaming, and internal boning at center front of the neckline. The skirt has fullness from the widening of the panels. The skirt and lower part of the bodice are beaded with floral/foliate forms in pinks, browns, yellows, clear and iridescent beads. The upper part of the bodice, in a deep band around neckline, back, and straps, is totally covered in iridescent sequins, beaded flower heads in bronze/brown and clear beads. The bodice is lined and has internal structures to help support and give form to the gown. The skirt is lined with stiff netting, and has an internal attached net crinoline. The gown has a center back zipper closure with hook-and-eye at top. There are no labels in the garment. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30227/
Evening Pumps
Pair of slip-on evening pumps. Grey/green leather sole with clear vinyl upper, the upper trimmed at vamp with a 4-row band of rhinestones. Spike- or stiletto-style heels formed of clear Lucite embossed with vertical bands of foliate forms and with metal heel-cap. Blind-stamped into sole at ball of feet: "80 M 6641 / 3218-V678". Right shoe stamped: "Joléne / Hollywood Inspired / Made in U.S.A." The Joléne Hollywood Inspired brand/label was manufactured by the Tober-Saifer Shoe Manufacturing Company of St. Louis. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30061/
Evening Shoes
Pair of red satin evening shoes. The deep red shoes have pointed toes and 3 1/2" stiletto heels which are lacquered red with tiny white dots and embellished all-over with rhinestones. Marked on sole: "6 / 1/2 / B / 05" and "Made in Italy". Label inside right shoe: "Vaccari / Italy Bologna". Stamped inside left shoe: "Made in Italy for / Neiman Marcus" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30215/
Fan
Folding fan. Plain shaped wooden sticks and guards. Leaf of cream paper with thin border of brown. On the leaf are three printed vignettes: 1) view of a street through an archway, titled "Calle de Cuchilleros"; 2) View of the exterior of a church/mission, titled "San Antonio de la Florida"; 3) Scene of a bear shaking a tree, entitled "Madrid". Maker's stamp on back of leaf at guard: "Casa de Diego" Created between 1950 and 1986. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc38115/
Fan
No Description digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc38037/
Gloves
Pair of gloves of white cotton. The plain, daytime gloves are wrist-length. Retailer's label sewn inside: "Made in Western Germany / expressly for / Neiman-Marcus / 100% Cotton" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc87016/
Gloves
Pair of gloves of white cotton. The daytime gloves are wrist length, with 3 tucks at top along back of hand, and a 1/2" fold-over band at wrist hem. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc87017/
Hat
Hat of gray fur felt. The low, rounded crown is made of gray beaver(?) fur felt over a structure of woven straw. Brim is of same felt, and appears narrow in front, but rolls under and extends back under crown. At sides and back, brim curves upwards, and then back downwards to extend under crown. Along sides and back of crown is section of gray grosgrain ribbon which projects through the upturned brim at back and becomes a large bow with trailing ends. There is an inner hatband of gray grosgrain ribbon around the edges of the brim where they meet the inside base of the crown. Attached to the inner hatband is an elasticized cord to secure hat to wearer's head, and attached to the front brim underside is a plastic comb to secure hat to wearer's head. Maker's label sewn to inner hatband: "Legroux Soeurs / 4 Rue Cambon Paris / Made in France". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39141/
Hat
Hat of red straw. Conical crown is of woven red straw, with a flattened top. The wide, floppy brim is of matching straw, constructed as a separate piece, sewn to the crown. The hat is unlined, with an inner hatband of black grosgrain ribbon inside base of crown. A black cord is attached to either side at inner hatband to help secure hat to wearer's head. Designer's label sewn to inner hatband: "Hattie Carnegie / Inc." Price tag affixed to inner band: "75 [cents symbol]" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39054/
Hat
Hat of yellow straw. The hemispherical crown is of woven yellow straw, around the base of which is tied a yellow grosgrain ribbon with ends trailing off of the back of the hat. The wide brim is curved up along sides and front, and flat at back. The hat is unlined, with an inner hatband of yellow grosgrain ribbon at inside base of crown. Retailer's label sewn to inner hatband: "Neiman-Marcus". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39243/
Hat
Hat of dark muted purple straw. The high crown is canted back at an angle, and has a slight rim around upper edge. Around the crown is wrapped a wide band of gathered off-white organza, which covers the entire side of the crown. The brim is of the same woven straw, with a rolled edge. It turns down at front and up at back. The inside of the crown is lined in a dark blue fine-mesh netting, and there is a dark blue grosgrain inner hatband around the lower inside edge of the crown. Sewn to the inside of the crown is a large retailer's label: "Neiman-Marcus / Custom Made"; a smaller label is sewn to the inner hatband: "Made in France for / Neiman-Marcus". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39208/
Hat
Hat of white straw. Bonnet-style small summer hat of white Milan straw. The crown is formed of segments that arch over the head and enclose at back. Front with turned-back brim framing the face. Accented at right side by three black velvet circles. Lined inside along all edges with white grosgrain ribbon inner hatband. Retailer's label sewn to inner hatband: "Neiman-Marcus". Intended to be worn on the back of the head. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc38044/
Hat
Sailor-style hat of tan straw and brown yarn. The "crushable" hat has a tan/brown straw crown, slightly domed, with base of brown crocheted yarn. The circular brim, set off-center to the crown, is of double-thickness. The join between the crochet band and the brim has inner brown grosgrain ribbon hatband. Designer's label sewn to inner hatband: "Hattie Carnegie / Inc / Original" When not worn, or padded, the had "deflates" or "crushes" down, the crocheted section not significantly supporting the crown. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc38049/
Hat
Hat of natural straw. Circular straw crown, slightly domed, with black grosgrain ribbon around base and surrounded by shaped straw brim. Brim is rounded in front for about 2/3 of circumference, and bound up with red stitching at back to form three corners at back. All edges of brim turned-up and edged in black velvet ribbon. From above, brim shape resembles a baseball field. Inside of crown with black grosgrain inner hatband, to which is attached two black elastic cords to secure combs to help hold hat on wearer's head. At front of hat is stitched a small "F" on the inner hatband to show front of hat. Designer's label inside crown at inner band: "Wm Silverman / New York", with smaller logo-form tag sewn in under larger label: "Wm Silverman" with scissors, needle and thread. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc38043/
Hat
Hat of reddish-pink wool. The derby style hat has a domed crown made of four sections of cloth that meet at center. Each section has chevrons of stitching, which point towards the center of the crown, giving a subtle quilted effect. Narrow brim rolls upwards at sides and back. A black suede(?) bow is applied to base of crown at center left. Inside base of crown is a band of pink grosgrain ribbon. Sewn to inner ribbon band is maker's label: "Balenciaga / 10 Avenue George V Paris" and label "Made in France" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30237/
Hat
Hat of straw and velvet. The short, cylindrical crown is of woven natural-colored straw, with off-center "peak". The crown is edged along top with a narrow band of orange velvet. The sides of the crown are covered in black velvet, and there is an inner band of black velvet-covered straw that extends below the sides of the crown. The hat is unlined, with an inner hatband of black grosgrain ribbon. On the band, a small sewn start designates the front of the hat. Designer's label sewn to inner hatband: "Hattie Carnegie / Custom Made", and with a (later?) price tag attached. Accompanied by a short hatpin, the head covered with woven straw matching the hat. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc38031/
Hat
Hat of tan Balibuntal (Ballibuntl)straw trimmed with ribbon and greenery. The domed crown is of light tan Balibuntal straw, encircled with a wide pink satin ribbon with bow at front. The bow and front of the hat are accented with artificial leaves and stems. The irregular tan Balibuntal straw brim is set off-center to the crown, with undulating edge, with quadruple row of stitching at outer edge. The inside of the crown has an inner hatband of tan/off-white grosgrain ribbon. Designer's/Retailer's label sewn to inner hatband: "Made to order hat / Bergdorf / Goodman / Fifth Ave at 58th" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc38056/
Hat
Hat of brown lace and beads. The beret-style hat is formed as a low crown of brown lace decorated with bronze-colored beads in loops and strings. The hat is lined in white net, and has an inner hatband of dark brown grosgrain ribbon. A stitched "star" on the inner hatband indicates the front of the hat, and two attached small plastic combs help secure the hat to wearer's head. Joint designer's/retailer's label is sewn to inner hatband: "Hattie Carnegie / Inc / Original / expressly for / Neiman Marcus" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc38095/
Hat
Hat in the form of a modified turban. The slightly flattened conical crown is flat across the top, with a roll at top and bottom. The lower brim gently undulates, forming lower areas at sides. The whole is covered in gold braid, spirals of black and gold ribbon, various colored rhinestones and blue/green/opalescent beads. The hat is lined in black satin(?), with black grosgrain inner hatband. Designer's label sewn into crown: "Lilly / Daché / Paris New York" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30272/
Hat
Hat made from white straw. The high, cylindrical, slightly domed crown flares out slightly at bottom into an asymmetrical brim. The hat is composed of bands of 10 strands of straw that are twined and platted and woven into shape. Decorating the hat are applied small 4-petaled silk flowers placed all over. At side is a thin bow of white grosgrain ribbon. Unlined, but with an inner white grosgrain ribbon hatband. Sewn into the inner ribbon band is retailer's label, "Saks Fifth Avenue / Millinery Salon". Sewn to the back of the retailer's label is a Union Label, #DB 995583 digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30313/
Hat
Jockey cap of navy felt. Hemispherical crown formed of 6 triangular segments. At top of crown is a small green enameled "apple" shaped charm, one green enameled spherical bead, and one orange enameled bead. At front of cap is crescent-shaped bill with inner wired edge. Cap is unlined. No labels in cap. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114891/
Hat
Hat of black straw in pancake shape with back turned up to form a fold giving semi-circular shape to hat. Small black velvet bow in back. Designer's label: "Adrian / Custom" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39128/
Hat
Hat of rust colored straw with curved brim wider in front and rolled in back. Green velvet ribbon trim. Tucked crown & tan silk lined brim. Designer's label on inside hatband: "Paris / Molli / New York" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39160/
Hat
Small turban style hat made of wide navy blue straw covered with navy veil. Designer's label on inside brim: "Irene of New York" Retailer's label on inside brim: "Neiman-Marcus / Salon" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39181/
Hat
Calotte-style hat of light brown velvet. Beige and red feathers as trim on front brim and bow of self on back. Lined in golden yellow satin with grosgrain ribbon inner hatband. Small stitched mark on band showing front of hat. Designer's Label: "Hattie Carnegie" Retailer's Label: "Neiman-Marcus / Salon" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39130/
Hat
Pillbox hat of navy blue velvet with bow like trims of self-fabric. Open crown with navy veil over top and front. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc277005/
Hat
Calotte style hat of black felt with rolled under brim. Cluster of back feathers along brim covered by black veil. Small bow of self. Stamp on inside crown: "100% Wool / Glenover / Henry Pollak, Inc. / New York" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114966/
Hatlet
Hatlet of blue gray feathers. The crown is formed as a partly curved bird's wing, enclosed at back and arcing across the head from ear to ear. The back part of the hat is of fine feathers, closely set, while the front of the hat is made of long feathers set parallel, pointing towards the front of the hat. The under-structure is wired to retain its shape, and the crown is edged with a blue gray grosgrain ribbon and lined with blue fabric. At front of hat is a pale blue gray netting veil with scattered crystals. A black elastic cord is attached to the inner sides of the hat to help secure it to the wearer's head. Maker's label sewn inside crown at back edge: "L and B / Karo / New York" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc38127/
Headband
Headband of dark green velvet. Double banded. One band in velvet, other band decorated with hearts of mink fur upon hearts of velvet. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc277131/
Picture Hat
Small picture hat of straw. The fine, natural color straw crown is domed, and encircled by a band of beige grosgrain ribbon at its base. The ribbon has a bow at the front. The wide, oval brim is set off-center to the crown, and is edged with the same beige grosgrain ribbon. The brim has two "V" cuts into it at front, forming projecting "saw teeth". At the base of each "V" cut, on top and underneath brim, is a bow of the same grosgrain ribbon. The hat is unlined, and there is an inner hatband of beige grosgrain ribbon. Label sewn to inner hatband: "Henrys / Dallas". Henrys has been identified alternately as maker or retailer. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc38121/
Picture Hat
Picture hat. The domed crown is of navy blue twill, with a navy blue grosgrain ribbon band tied at base of crown, with bow at back with trailing ribbons. At front of crown is a second bow of stylized foliate form, created out of stiffened rolled twill or grosgrain, with two red straw cylindrical "buds" extending upwards. The wide, down-turned brim is of red straw. Inside crown is navy blue grosgrain ribbon hatband. Sewn to inner ribbon band is label: "Henry's / Originals / Dallas" Gift of Ian Dellar. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc38120/
Picture Hat
Small straw picture hat. Low domed crown of a dark/purple woven straw. Wide, down-turned brim of same material starts high on the crown, and is edged in black velvet. At the back of the hat, starting at top of brim, is an applied spray of artificial daisies and leaves in green fabric, with black velvet bow. Unlined. Inside, at base of crown, is brown/purple grosgrain ribbon headband. Label sewn to inner hatband: "Henrys / Dallas" Henrys has been identified alternately as maker or retailer. Gift of Mr. Ian Dellar. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc38124/
Picture Hat
Small picture hat of black straw. The domed black straw crown is edged in black velvet ribbon and is surmounted by a "starburst" of pleated black grosgrain fabric with a vertically projecting "tab" of grosgrain ribbon backed with black velvet. The matching straw brim is circular along the front 2/3 of the hat, and then "cut back" along the back 1/2, forming two slight corners at sides. The brim is edged in black velvet ribbon. The crown has an inner black grosgrain ribbon hatband. Label sewn to inner hatband: "Henrys / Dallas". Henrys has been identified alternately as maker or retailer. Accompanied by a single short hatpin with simulated black pearl head. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc38123/
Pillbox Hat
Pillbox hat of fine brown straw. Cylindrical crown has inset, slightly domed top created by having an inner pillbox hat of same design. Lower edge of crown is gently scalloped and edged in brown grosgrain ribbon. Hat has fine brown veiling attached between crown of inner and outer hats, around sides and front of hat, and two pearl-headed pins at sides. Lined in black fabric and edged with brown grosgrain ribbon. Small applied cream ribbon bow on inner ribbon indicates back of hat. Designer's label inside: "Lilly / Daché / Paris New York". Label is so large that part of the word "Paris" and part of "York" are cut-off. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39129/
Pillbox Hat
Pillbox hat of yellow chiffon. The stiffened cylindrical crown is slightly domed, and covered with pleated yellow chiffon. On the top of the crown, the pleats run front-to-back, and on the sides the pleats run horizontally around the crown. The interior of the crown is lined in yellow faille, and has an inner hatband at the base of wide yellow grosgrain ribbon. Attached to the inner grosgrain band at either side is a small plastic comb to secure hat to wearer's head. There are no labels in the hat. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39241/
Pillbox Hat
Hat of golden cloth. The pillbox style hat is formed as a low, cylindrical crown of stiffened mesh with flattened top, covered with with a woven golden cloth, pleated horizontally on sides. The top of the crown is embellished with beading, using simulated pearls, small bronze-colored beads, large oval cabochon opalescent translucent beads, faceted "crystal" beads, and crescent-shaped translucent beads. The hat is unlined, the inner mesh visible and showing embroidered pattern of pale green leaves/branches. Around inside lower edge of crown is an inner hatband of green grosgrain ribbon. Affixed to inner hatband on either side is a small plastic comb to help secure hat to wearer's head. Maker's (retailer's?) label sewn to inner hatband: "Henrys / Dallas". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39240/
Pillbox Hat
Pillbox hat of cream satin. The slightly domed crown of the hat is of cream satin, inset within a thick ring of the same fabric which forms the sides of the crown. Applied to the sides of the crown are black velvet ribbon semi-bows which form "T" shapes, set alternately upright and inverted. The hat is lined in golden tan fabric, and has a white grosgrain ribbon inner hatband around the inside base of the crown. Maker's label sewn to inner hatband: "Christian Dior New York Inc.". Retailer's label sewn to inside lining of crown: "Neiman-Marcus / Made to Order". Accompanied by a single short hatpin with faux pearl head. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39201/
Pillbox Hat
Pillbox hat of black velvet. The low, cylindrical, slightly domed hat is completely covered in black velvet. Affixed to the center front of the hat is a roughly fan-shaped aigrette of simulated gems and metallic braid with a surmounting spray of white feathers. The crown is lined in black fabric, and has a black grosgrain ribbon running along the inside bottom edge. Sewn to the inner ribbon is a plastic comb to secure the hat to the wearer's head. No labels. The aigrette is attributed to Robert Goossens, of Paris, who is known to have supplied to Balenciaga. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30205/
Pillbox Hat
Pillbox hat of straw/raffia. The crown of the pillbox is of natural-colored straw/raffia, domed and with rounded edges, having a sloping back on which there is an applied bow of matching straw/raffia. The lower edge of the crown turns under and into the crown. Hat is lined in brownish/golden satin, and has an inner woven straw/raffia hatband. Inner buckram frame/base. Label sewn inside: "Saks Fifth Avenue / Millinery Salon" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc38118/
Pillbox Hat
Pillbox hat of bright pink straw with flower-like decoration of white iridescent petal shaped paillettes, 3 rhinestones and pearl center with white chenille stem held in place by small bow of self. Two grosgrain covered wire loops at sides to secure hat to head. Pink veil. Designer's label on inside hatband: "JR / Janyth Roy / New York" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39207/
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