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Beret
Beret of green, cerise and cream colored worsted yarn with pink pique ribbon trim and bow. Three knit loops encircle ribbon and bow on left front. Elastic band for securing hat to wearer's head. Designer's label: "Chanel" Model number tag above designer's label: "10791(?)" Label: "Made in France"
Beret
Beret of yellow pin stripe velvet. Lined in silk. Designer's label on inside crown under netting: "J. Suzanne Talbot / Modes / modele depose / Rue Royale . Paris, 14 Rue Royal" Tag on inside hat brim: "Made in France"
Blouse
Blouse of navy blue wool. Wide, boat neckline with inner wide white pique lining which folds over dark plum(?) facing of wool collar, to become shawl collar. Double breasted, with three pair of circular black buttons and single hook-and-eye at waist. Sleeveless, with slight "cap" effect caused by wide shoulders darting, and deep diagonal line of sides. Raised waist and flaring peplum. Unlined. Inner structure augmented with satin ribbons sewn to help hold structure of bodice. Designer's label at inside lower left seam: "Renée Collard / Paris" Retailer's label overlapping lower edge of designer's label: "Janga / 98 Faubg St Honoré Paris"
Blouse
Blouse of ecru gaberdine wool. Convertible collar. Sleeveless with wrapped closure on left with 5 hook & eyes. Slightly fitted. Fully lined in cream colored silk.
Calotte Hat
Calotte style hat of deep emerald green velvet with stitched, raised front. Rim of twisted velvet. Designer's label on inside hatband: "Danielle / ses chapeaux / Paris" Tag attached to designer's label: "Made in France"
Calotte Hat
Calotte style hat of black velvet and felt. Rim of velvet bows surrounding pointed cap supported by scalloped brim. Elastic band for securing hat to wearer's head. Designer's label: "Madame Suzy / 5, Rue de la Paix / Paris" Label below designer's label: "Made in France"
Calotte Hat
Calotte style hat made of brown net covered with green silk leaves and violet rose buds. Designer's label on inside hatband: "Made in France / Christian Dior / Paris"
Cap
Hat of striped silk satin. Formed as a baseball cap, the crown is a dome created by 5 triangular segments of cream silk satin with green and thin black stripes. The cloth is cut and arranged so the stripes run vertically to top of crown. The brim is formed as a cap's bill, larger than usual, of the same striped material, with the stripes running from crown to front edge. The hat is unlined, with a small loop sewn in to hang cap. Label inside crown: "Made in France". Made to match a 2-piece ensemble of slacks and waistcoat in the same materials.
Cloche
Cloche hat of tan linen. The off-the-face cloche has a high, domed crown embellished with white saddle stitching along seams. The brim is of the same material, folded up at front and descending down at sides and is turned down at back. At center back is a separation in the brim, with a small tan linen bow between the sections. The hat is unlined, with a brown grosgrain ribbon inner hatband inside the base of the crown. Maker's label sewn to inner hatband: "Reproduction / Rose Descat / 22 Rue Royale / Paris"; Second label sewn to inner hatband: "Made in France"
Cloche
Cloche hat of tan milan straw. The high crown is slightly dished, and narrows to brim, with wide band of tan/very pale green grosgrain ribbon at base with large "bow" at side. The straw brim is down-turned. The crown has an inner brown grosgrain ribbon hatband. Designer's label sewn to inner hatband: "Roger Heim / Made in France Paris", and retailer's ribbon sewn just above designer's label: "Made in France for / Neiman-Marcus".
Cloche and Scarf Set
Cloche hat of embroidered pink linen. The slightly domed crown is made of pink linen with all-over tiny white embroidered polka-dots. The matching brim is turned up at front, sewn to crown, and descends at sides, turning downwards at back. At center back the brim is split, with a bow of the same fabric affixed at the split. The hat is lined with white silk. There are no labels or tags in the hat. The hat is accompanied by a necktie/scarf of the same fabric. Original records indicate the set is probably French in origin.
Cloche Hat
Cloche style hat of black Milan straw cloth with small, slightly pointed front brim. Hat is folded across width of crown towards front. Narrow black velvet ribbon trim meeting to form a bow at front with wreath of folded ribbon at base of bow. Unlined with elastic band to secure hat to wearer's head. Designer's label: "Louise Bourbon (barely legible) / 13 Rue Royale Paris" Tag attached to designer's label: "Made in France"
Cloche Hat
Cloche-style hat of blue/gray feathers. The crown of the hat is made of dark blue mesh overlaid with a mosaic of blue/gray feathers. Brimless, the lower edge of the crown arcs upwards at front and slightly in back. The hat is lined in the mesh, and has an inner hatband at the lower inside edge of the crown. Designer's label sewn to inner hatband: "Made In / France", "Christian Dior / Paris"
Cloche Hat
Cloche hat of wine colored felt with rose beige crushed velvet trim at upturned front and facing. Designer's label: "Florence Walton / 9.rue Saint Florentine. Paris" Tag attached to designer's label: "Made in France"
Cloche Hat
Cloche style hat of royal blue felt.
Cloche Hat
Cloche style hat of fur felt in charcoal gray blending to lighter gray at top of crown.
Coat Dress
Coat dress of brown silk faille in "Ottoman" style. Knee or street length, with turndown collar and slight V neckline. Darts at bust for fit. Four button closures at center front with bound buttonholes, two above and two below waist/belt. Hook and eyes at waistline. Long sleeves with rolled cuffs and underarm gussets. In-seam pockets at sides. Flared skirt, pleated in back. Simulated "shirtwaist" decoration at front of skirt. Unlined. Designer's label at inside back collar: "Made in / France"; "Autumne-Hiver 1952 / Christian Dior / Paris"; stamped: "2????" [mostly illegible], on label With matching belt of brown suede. Self-covered buckle of narrow, vertical rectangles secures with hook and bar closure; 1-1/4" wide.
Cocktail Dress
Cocktail dress of yellow lace and organza. The strapless, knee-length dress is of yellow inlay Spanish lace, with a slim line skirt that gathers at empire waist. It has a center back zipper with hook & eye closure at top. The bodice has a built-in corset-like support of boning and white net with white grosgrain ribbon waist band, the whole securing at back with 8 hook & eye closures. Lined in yellow silk. A removable, wide band of pleated yellow organza with tapered ends embellished with matching lace appliqués attaches with hooks and eyes at the waist of the dress, giving the effect of a narrow stole. The dress also has an accompanying very large matching yellow organza stole/wrap with matching lace appliqués at each end.
Cocktail Dress
Cocktail dress of beige wool crepe with faux black Astrakhan.
Day Dress
Day dress of red ribbed wool. Squared neckline; 3/4 length sleeves. Set-in waistline with attached 1-1/2" wraparound belt that closes in back with 2 hook & eyes and a snap. Below knee length. Center front opening with 7 hook & eyes on waistband and 7 red, circular, plastic buttons and bound buttonholes below waistband. Lined in red silk; bodice lining is sleeveless with center front zipper closure. Designer's label at right seam of bodice lining: "Automne-Hiver 1953 / Christian Dior / Paris / Made in France" and stamped on designer's label: "36416" Style number label under designer's label, illegible: "--6--4"
Day dress
Dress of blue wool with round neckline and 3/4 length raglan sleeves.
Dinner Dress
Dinner dress and jacket ensemble of black wool; (a) Jacket: Short princess line black wool jacket; V-neckline with wide notched collar and wide lapels; full-length, set in, two piece sleeves; asymmetrical lapped front opening with one large, round, filligreed button with rhinestones and bound buttonhole; fully lined in black silk. Label stitched inside back neck below collar. (b) Dress: Matching sleeveless knee length dress with V-neckline in front due to surplice styled opening; fronts secure with four snaps and four hook&eyes; seam detail around bust; back neckline is square between straps; waistline seam with skirt gathering all around; lapped center-front opening in skirt with single hook&eye and two snaps; folded hem; fully lined in black silk. Label stitched inside on lining at right side seam. Size 12 BALENCIAGA, Paris
Dinner ensemble
Dinner dress and jacket ensemble of black wool. a) Jacket: Short princess line black wool jacket; V-neckline with wide notched collar and wide lapels. Full-length, set in, two piece sleeves. Asymmetrical lapped front opening with one large, round, filigree button with rhinestones and bound buttonhole Fully lined in black silk. Designer label stitched inside back neck below collar: Balenciaga / 10, Avenue George V. Paris Couture number: 62048 b) Dress: Matching sleeveless knee length dress with V-neckline in front due to surplice styled opening. Fronts secure with four snaps and four hook&eyes; seam detail around bust; back neckline is square between straps. Waistline seam with skirt gathering all around; lapped center-front opening in skirt with single hook&eye and two snaps. Folded hem; fully lined in black silk. Designer label stitched inside on lining at right side seam: Balenciaga / 10, Avenue George V. Paris Couture number: 62059
Dress
Dress of brown/beige coffee-colored wool.
Dress
Dress ensemble of black ribbed silk. a) Bolero jacket of black ribbed silk. Waist length, double breasted with 4 circular plastic black buttons and bound buttonholes. Notched lapel; bracelet length sleeves. Lined in black silk. Evidence of label removed. b) Dress of black ribbed silk. Collarless rounded neckline; sleeveless. Straight skirt, elasticized waist. Back zipper closure with small tie belt of same fabric attached at waist. Back of bodice lined in black silk; balance of dress unlined.
Dress
Dress of black wool crepe. Bows at sides. Hook & eye closure curved across back with 3/4 sleeves. Bateau neckline. Unlined.
Dress
Cocktail dress of black silk faille peau de soie. Short sleeves. Vertical rouched gather down center back of skirt with bow of self at top and bottom of gather.
Dress
A) Dress of beige ribbed cotton blend (orig card states wool). Boat neckline. Short sleeves. Simulated front opening with two circular beige buttons. Patch pocket at lower right with simulated flap. Side zipper. Unlined. Retailer's label: "Neiman-Marcus". B) Belt. Wide gray soft leather belt. Single button closure. Fringed ends. Label on back: "Made in France".
Dress ensemble
Daytime dress ensemble of lavender bouclé wool. a) Jacket of lavender bouclé wool. Short waist and bracelet length, set-in sleeves. Single breasted with one circular purple plastic button and bound buttonhole with inner hook & loop. Notched collar. Faux flap pockets at hemline. Lined in purple silk. Retailer's label at center back neckline: "Neiman-Marcus" b) Daytime dress of lavender bouclé wool. Sleeveless; knee-length. Center front opening with alternating snaps and hook & eye closure. Rounded neckline. Lined in purple silk. c) Self tie belt attached to dress. 1" wide.
Ensemble
Bright red/orange wool dress and coat ensemble.
Ensemble - Blouse, Skirt, Belt, Purse
Cocktail or dinner dress ensemble of pale blue/green satin brocade with design of acanthus and thistle/leaf in dark green and golden yellow, consisting of: A) Blouse. Short sleeves with 2" rolled cuffs and shawl collar. Center front opening has 4 self-covered buttons above waist, and 6 hook-and-loops below waist on peplum for securing into skirt. Fitted seaming and pleats centered on waist. Unlined. Label inside top at left side seam: "Made in France / Christian Dior / Paris" and stamped on label: "05456" B) Skirt of matching brocade. The mid-length skirt is double box pleated from narrow waistband. Center back zipper with hook-and-eyes at waistband. Unlined. C) Petticoat of ivory moiré satin. Mid-length, with narrow waistband. Center back zipper with hook-and-eye at waistband. E) Belt of green silk-covered ivory leather with rectangular silk-covered buckle. (not in photographs) D) Purse of green silk.
Ensemble - Blouse, Skirt, Camisole
Ensemble of navy-blue and slightly lighter silk organza composed of vertical hand-faggoted bands of alternating shades of blue giving light and dark effect. A) Blouse. Waist length with extending peplum to tuck under skirt. V-neckline, with collar of flat reveres with faggoted border. Short sleeves with turned-back cuffs. Center front opening with 4 self-covered buttons, a snap at the natural waistline, and 1 hook and loop and 5 hooks and eyes on peplum. The stripes and peplum are lined in pale gray organza, leaving the faggotted seams unlined. Underarm gussetts, with built-in pads. No labels. B) Skirt. Street length, full skirt matching bodice, with alternating vertical stripes, narrow navy blue waistband with center front opening with 5 self-covered buttons, and one hook and eye and two hook and loops on waistband, and a large snap which matches to bodice. Lined as blouse, with cream organza lining the stripes, but the faggotted bands left open, and with an inner skirt attached at waist of same cream silk organza, and with inner petticoat with flounce of cream tulle which has separate closure with 9 hook-and-eyes. No labels. Handwritten note on waistband "RH650 2P(?)" C) Inner shell camisole/lining for blouse of cream silk. Sleeveless, waist length, with V-neckline and center front opening with 7 hook-and-eye closures. Fitted slightly raised waistline. Designer's label at left side seam near hem: "Christian Dior / Paris" "Printemps-Ete 1953"; "Made in France"; 34419(?) Handwritten label underneath designer's label: "58.889"
Ensemble - Bodystocking, Mini-Skirt and Belt
Ensemble consisting of three pieces. Full-length bodystocking is of heavy ivory wool knit, in a ribbed pattern running vertically throughout body and legs, and horizontally around arms. The garment has a turtle-neck and wide flaring cuffs at legs. Center back zipper opening from top of turtle-neck to mid-back. The black double knit wool micro-mini-skirt has four over-sized belt loops with pointed ends, and center back zipper closure. The ensemble includes a wide black patent-leather belt which secures with concealed snaps. Bodystocking has two labels. Designer's label inside at back near zipper: "Pierre Cardin / Paris New York"; Material/size label on opposite side: "100% / Wool / L" The belt is stamped on reverse: "12 1851"
Ensemble - Cape, Blouse, and Skirt
Three-piece ensemble of navy blue wool tweed with white silk threads. A) Cape. Falls below hips. Constructed with applied bands or plackets of self giving the appearance of pleats. No collar; rounded neckline with modified suspender self bands at neck that extend down to waist and secure to the pair of buttons on the waistband of the skirt. Padded shoulders. Lined in white satin. Remains of label, mostly illegible, in pieces, covered with crepeline. "65-67 Champ ........ Paris" B) Blouse of white satin. Collarless with piped, rounded, high neckline and string tie at front (decorative). Long, set-in sleeves gathered into cuffs with single button and tailored buttonhole at each cuff. Front with wide center and two narrow vertical pin-tucks. Center back closure with 7 circular shell/mother-of-pearl buttons and tailored buttonholes. No labels in shirt. C) Skirt. Street-length, A-line with 1-1/2 inch waistband. Two pairs of circular dark blue buttons on waistband for securing "suspenders". Left side zipper with four sets of hook-and-eyes (one missing). Simulated pleats, sewn down, with vertical strips of same fabric sewn to skirt giving illusion of further pleating. Unlined. Label on waistband to left of zipper: "Made In France"
Ensemble - Dress and Coat
(At Left) Evening ensemble of brown silk shantung. The camisole is sleeveless, with a boat neckline. Center back closure with 10 small circular buttons covered with matching fabric. The blouse is lined in dark brown silk, and has an inner structure of net and metal boning. The understructure extends below the top to give structure to the skirt. The inner net and boning layer has a center back closure of 14 hook-and-eyes, matching along same line as outer closure. The skirt is of matching materials, A-line, below-the-knee length. It has a 2" waistband decorated with horizontal ruching. Center-back zipper closure with two hook-and-eyes in waistband. The skirt has an attached black rayon gorgette underslip, and an attached black nylon petticoat. The petticoat has a horsehair braid incorporated in the hem for stiffening. The matching swing coat is calf length, with a rolled collar and short sleeves. It is constructed with several layers of organza for structure and a tuck panel around the coat for decoration and flounce. Lined in brown silk. There are no labels in the garment. Photograph is from the exhibition "Haute Couture - The Great Paris Designers", held at The Grace Museum, Abilene Texas, October 17 - December 30, 2000, and shows suit as displayed.
Ensemble - Dress and Jacket
Ensemble of oatmeal colored wool tweed: a) Jacket of beige and black wool tweed with V-neckline with standard notched collar and wide lapels; short, princess seams; 3/4 length, set in, two piece sleeves; double breasted opening with four round, plastic, beige buttons and two bound buttonholes supplemented by single large covered snap inside lap at waist; fully lined in beige silk. Label stitched inside back neck below collar. b) Dress of same; sleeveless; falling just below the knee; deep rounded neckline; empire waist seam; straight skirt has slight gathers in front; left side underarm zipper closure supplemented by single hook&eye closure; folded hem; armhole and neck facings; brassiere strap keepers snap inside shoulders; unlined.
Ensemble - Jacket and Dress
Ensemble of printed silk. This cocktail or dinner ensemble in the "New Look" consists of a dress and bolero-style jacket of printed floral ikat silk with a black ground and floral design in gray, browns and dark brown/mauve shades. A) The dress is mid-calf-length, sleeveless, and with a boat neckline. Tailored to fit, with side bust and waist darts. Self fabric bow at top of waist gore which releases into a box pleat at the skirt. Slightly dropped waist. Under the sides of front box pleat edges are two knife pleats to create fullness, with darts for slimmer waist. On either side of front bock pleat is a small 1"intake pleat to balance fullness of skirt. Side seams have a lapping box pleat and an small triangular insert from front side seams. Back waist has 4 sets of box pleats, two on either side of center back zipper closure. The dress has built-in under-structure consisting of inner half-slip of off-white satin, and three layers of stiffened netting petticoats, all with horsehair braid at hem. B) The matching jacket is of the same cloth, cropped short in the bolero style. The center-front opening has no closures and is collarless. Raglan style sleeves are tea elbow length. Under sleeve and sleeve cuff is slightly ruched creating a faux cuff look. It is fully lined in a brown silk organza. 4-way underarm gusset. Sewn into the hem are French weights. There is no label in the dress. The jacket has a single designer's label: "Printemps-Ete 1956 / Christian Dior / Paris" which has stamped on it "80615". The "1956" appears embossed, not printed, and the black backing of the label is cut away behind the "1956".
Eugenie Hat
Eugenie style hat of wine colored felt and velour with shallow crown. Ostrich plumes at crown. Label inside hat: "Lorie" Label inside hat: "Reproduction 'illegible' / Madame Lucy / 5, Rue de la Paix / Paris" Size label: "registered model / 22 1/2" Label inside hat: "Millinery Creators Guild"
Evening dress
Ballgown of pink silk satin. Strapless edged in a band of same. High waist. Very full balloon/bubble skirt, heavily gathered at waist. Wide vertical pleated panel attaches at waist and extends down and under front of skirt creating a slight pick up with bow at waist. Bodice is boned and lined in crepe silk. Inner panels of horsehair and hoop for support. Bodice has center back zipper which continues as inner skirt zipper and is concealed with a hook and eye and small bow at top. Skirt has snaps at center back.
Evening Gown
Evening gown of black crepe with maroon sequin trim. Full-length. Bodice of thin net covered with swirling pattern of magenta purple sequins. Rounded neckline. Short sleeves with shoulder pads. Empire waist has set-in waistband with added butterfly-shaped panel below set-in panel on front. Flared skirt, bias-cut. Left side opening (closure missing); bodice has center front opening with 5 snaps and hook & eye at neckline. Unlined. Designer's label at inside waist: "Balenciaga / 10 Avenue George V Paris" "Made in Paris" label sewn below designer's label.
Fan
Folding fan with intricately carved and decorated tortoiseshell guards and sticks. Leaf of stiffened off-white organdy, heavily embroidered with steel paillettes and gold sequins. Embroidered and sequined peacock feathers applied to ends of alternating sticks. Pivot-point at end set on each side with blue stone.
Fan
Folding fan. Guards and sticks of lightly carved ivory (bone?) with scrolling foliate designs. The leaf is of white lace. Sticks are unadorned on the reverse. No visible labels, marks or signatures. Fan has alternately been identified as Irish lace or machine-made lace, and dated 1830's or 1880-1899.
Fan
Folding fan of bone and satin. Guards and sticks of bone, intricately carved with pierced latticework. Plain off-white silk satin leaf. Chased metal bail ring at pivot with mother-of-pearl beads. Off-white silk tassel tied to bail. Inscribed on silk leaf along one guard: "Hood W. [illeg.] / June 5th /73"; other inscriptions on other guard, too fragile to examine.
Fedora Hat
Fedora hat of light grey felt. Rust red felt hatband knots in front with ends of knot extending across and folding under the brim. Crown folds to triangular points meeting at top and is trimmed in same rust red felt as hatband. Elastic band for securing hat to wearer's head. Designer's label on inside hat band: "Rose Valois / 18, Rue Royale / Paris" Label left of designer's label: "Made in France"
Glengarry Hat
Glengarry style cap of Scottish tartan wool plaid in green/black/blue and white stripes. Tricolored cockade trim on right side. Designer's label on inside hat band: "Madame Suzy / 5, Rue de la Paix / Paris" Label above designer's label: "Made in France"
Hat
Hat of navy blue felt in Scottish glengarry style with two blue grosgrain ribbon on crown forming short streamers in back.
Hat
Peaked Dutch-type bonnet of rough black straw with two bands of embroidered organdy and lace across forehead.
Hat
Calotte of rust brown knit with rolled straw brim in browns and gold. Designer's label on inside hatband: "Agnes / 6 Rue St Florentin / Paris" Label above designer's label: "Made in France" Size label on inside hatband: "22 1/2"
Hat
Calotte with braided yellow ribbon crown with brown and dark brown knotted yarn brim. Designer's label on inside brim: "J. Suzanne Talbot / Modes / 14 Rue Royale Paris" Maker's label : "34064" Label on inside brim: "made in france"
Hat
Afternoon hat of black velvet with bow of self in back. To be worn over one eye in Eugénie style. Lined in black silk. Elastic band for securing hat to wearer's head. Designer's label on inside crown: "J. Suzanne Talbot / Modes" Label on inside crown: "Made in France"
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