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  Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
 Collection: Texas Fashion Collection
Ensemble - Dress and Coat
Ensemble consisting of two pieces: A) Dress of gray striped cashmere with scoop neckline and long sleeves with rolled hem and edges; wide, horizontal stripes of alternating gray and light gray; tunic-length. B) Coat of discs of laminated news clippings sewn on white jersey knit with wide silver fox trim at neckline, opening, and cuffs; lined in champagne satin; mid-length. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc330379/
Ensemble - Coat, Skirt, and Blouse
Ensemble consisting of: A) Dress coat of camel color wool gabardine. Single breasted with four circular, ivory, plastic buttons with bound buttonholes. Street length. Notched collar. Large pleat down center back. Long set-in sleeves with band cuffs having a single matching button with bound buttonhole. Four patch pockets with flaps - two smaller pockets at breast and two larger pockets at hips. Each pocket is trimmed with a functioning, smaller matching button with bound buttonhole. Lined in tan silk. Designer's label at center back neckline: "Norell" Retailer's label below designer's label: "Sakowitz / Houston" Union label at left armhole. B) Belt of cream colored leather. 3/4" wide with rectangular buckle covered in same. Reverse stamped: "14 611" C) Shell blouse of ivory silk knit. Sleeveless with jewel neckline. Center back zipper with hook & eye. Lined in cream silk satin D) Skirt of camel color wool gabardine. Slightly A-line; knee length. Left side zipper closure with two large hook & eyes on waistband. Lined in tan silk. Designer's label on inside left seam of lining: " Norman Norell / New York" Handwritten style number label: "24787-611-14" Union label below designer's label. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc330395/
Evening Dress
Evening dress of ivory silk crepe with over-layer of ivory organza; layered, tiered rectangles of ivory organza down front; strapless bodice silhouette with attached fine cord straps at top of a rectangle of light brown tulle with layered ivory organza rectangles over it; rectangle goes above the bodice top at the center-front; side-zip closure; full-length. Designer's label: "Akris" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc330355/
Coat
Coat of purple wool. Double breasted with 8 large, round, purple plastic buttons and 4 bound buttonholes. Long sleeved with slight flair to hem. Knee length. A-line with two vertical welt pockets. Rounded neckline with 1-1/4" mandarin collar. Lined in light purple silk taffeta. Designer's label: "Norman Norell / New York" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc330372/
Dress
Dress of various color blocks of blues, browns, pinks, and yellow knit with 2 ¾” single shoulder strap and waistband of dark red knit; some of the geometrical blocks blocks are accented with gems, beads, and/or sequins; dress is full-length and slim fitting with 26” slit at center-back; left side-zip closure under left arm. Designer's label: "Missoni / Made in Italy" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc330352/
Skirt Suit
Skirt suit ensemble: A) Blazer jacket of black silk gaberdine. Short waist with notched collar. Double breasted with four 1" mother-of-pearl buttons; closure reinforced with clear plastic button inside jacket. Three-quarter length, set-in sleeves with snap closure at slit. Two false pockets with rectangular flaps. Lined in black silk faille. B) Skirt of white linen. Knee-length skirt with 1 inch waist band. Slightly A-line. In-seam front panel pockets. Left side zipper closure with two large silver colored hook and eyes. Skirt looks to have been let out at hem. Lined in ivory silk. Designer's label on inside left seam of lining: "Norman Norell / New York" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc330343/
Ensemble - Dress and Coat
Ensemble A) Coat of cream and orange wool gabardine. Approximately knee-length cream wool coat, with rounded neckline. Asymmetrical front opening set to left of center with 5 large circular white ceramic or plastic buttons with bound buttonholes. Long sleeves with orange cuffs buttoning with two matching buttons. Three orange flap pockets - two on right, one on left - with bound slit pocket under flap. Collar, opening, cuffs, and pocket flaps of orange wool gabardine. Lined in cream silk crepe. Designer's label inside at back collar: "Norell". Retailer's label at inside right seam: "Esther Wolf / Houston" B) Dress of bright orange wool gaberdine. Knee-length, with rounded neckline. Sleeveless. Bust darts. Wide straps. Left shoulder with 5 hook-and-eyes closure. Left side zipper at bodice, and second zipper and three hook and eyes at skirt. Skirt slightly gathered at natural waistline. Side seam pockets. Lined in orange silk. Designer's label at inside skirt lining seam: "Norman Norell / New York" Union Label near designer's label. Care label inside at left side seam: "DO NOT USE STEAM IRON" Small label at inside front neckline: "FRONT" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc330340/
Dress
Dress of violet paisley silk crepe with black, cream, and teal accents; crepe is gathered at neckline and attached to a brass metal neck adornment with open-front; V-neckline bodice wraps around at front into wide waistband; side-zip closure under left arm; large, loose bracelet-length sleeves are gathered at the wrists into a ½” cuff with a single button closure; knee-length skirt is heavily gathered into waistband and has an attached slip of red crepe. Designer's label: "Etro" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc330511/
Skirt Suit
Suit in navy wool trimmed in flat black cording. A) Jacket of navy blue wool with woven, checked pattern. Double breasted with eight black fabric covered buttons and four bound buttonholes. Notched collar. Collar and center front of jacket trimmed with black flat cording. Long sleeves with turned-back cuffs trimmed with black flat cording and two small black fabric covered buttons each with two bound buttonholes. Two pockets trimmed in matching cording. Lined in blue silk. Combined designer/retailer label at center back neckline: "Neiman-Marcus Dallas / Traina-Norell" B) Skirt of navy blue wool with woven, checked pattern. A-line and knee length with nine panel construction. 1 1/2" waistband with left side zipper and four hook & eye closure. Unlined. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc330502/
Jacket
Jacket of black silk satin. The jacket, formed as a basque bodice with typical close-fitting achieved by seaming, has extended front panels and is edged with ivory lace. The jacket is embellished with dark blue velvet and olive brown chenille appliques of floral and leaf forms and black jet beading. Lined in ivory silk satin. Photograph is from the exhibition Haute Couture - The Great Paris Designers, held at The Grace Museum, Abilene Texas, October 17 - December 30, 2000, and shows jacket as displayed with a period hat (Accession #: 1981.015.001) and skirt (Accession #: 1967.025.099). digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc29991/
Suit
Woman's suit consisting of three pieces, a coat, blouse, and skirt. Coat and skirt are made of navy blue wool. The coat has a center front opening, and long sleeves which end just above wrist. The skirt is slightly below mid-calf length. The blouse is made of rust-colored chiffon with rounded neck, and is decorated with beading and embroidery. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc29994/
Evening Coat
Evening coat of gold metallic brocade in a floral motif with multicolored rectangles. Cocoon-style, with white fox collar, the full-length barrel sleeves with matching fur trimmed cuffs. The coat has a single button closure, and pink silk satin lining. Label: "Hattie Moss, Philadelphia, Pennsylvania" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc29999/
Dress
Dress of rose pink rayon and silk, with ivory silk Peter Pan collar and with cut-out stitched trim. 24 silver ball buttons on left side, and geometric triple-tiered ruffles with drop-waist and self-fabric belt with silver buckle. Long, straight sleeves with ivory satin cuffs with stitched trim; single snap closure. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc29996/
Bonnet.
Bonnet of blue silk. Brim is hand-quilted in square corners and curving lines that follow the shape of the brim in even lines. The brim is composed of 3 pieces of silk fabric, which are pieced together and then quilted. Cotton used as batting material throughout. The crown is entirely quilted in rows of horizontal stitching and radiating circles. The tail has L-shaped quilting, which echoes the front edge of the tail. The chin ties are striped silk ribbons. Some areas of fabric loss and shattering on bonnet and ties. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc29993/
Afternoon Dress
Afternoon dress of dark green silk satin, crepe and chiffon. The tunic-style dress of dark green silk satin is street-length, with a drop waist. It has a slight standing collar at back which extends out in front to become long ties with a backing of dark maroon. Below the bow formed by the ties is V-shaped neckline. The full-length sleeves are dark green silk satin from shoulders to elbows and are translucent green crepe from elbows to cuffs. The main part of the gauze sections are embroidered with floral motifs in red, pink, and green/gold. The sleeves have two snaps at each cuff, which are trimmed with bands of pink crepe, maroon crepe, and dark green satin. On the front of the skirt are three wide, slightly overlapping tiers of fabric, split at center front, which start below the hips and end slightly above the hem. The dress is unlined, and there are no tags or labels. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc29995/
Pumps
Pumps of beige snakeskin. The shoes with square toe, and square 2 1/4" high chunky heel. Designer label: "Adolfo / Couture / Made in Italy" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc87085/
Pillbox Hat
Pillbox hat of tan fur. Low circular crown covered in light tan fur, likely mink. Lined in pink fabric with band of blue fabric inside lower edge, overlaid with gold rickrack band. On each side along inside lower edge is a small brown plastic comb secured by black elastic cord to secure hat to wearer's head. Designer's label inside at back: "Sue Dooley / Dallas" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc87082/
Pumps
Pumps of cow hide dyed in a zebra stripe effect. The shoes have pointed toes, and 3" stiletto heels covered in black snakeskin. Retailer label: "Neiman-Marcus / Made in Italy" Stamped on sole of shoe: "Neiman-Marcus / Hand Made / In Italy / B / 8" Stamped inside shoe: "830 DA 8" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc87081/
Hat
Hat of black fur and felt. The body of the hat is of black felt, overlaid at sides with black fur. The crown is styled somewhat as a toque, with vertical sides, and a sunken top. At back, the sides "tie", forming a bow of felt edged with fur. Hat is unlined, with inner black grosgrain ribbon hatband, and with a braided elastic cord to secure hat to wearer's head. Designer's label: "Merilyn / Hats" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc87087/
Pumps
Pumps of green, yellow, and red suede color blocks crossed with narrow bands of blue suede. Shoes have a pointed toe, and 2 7/8" high heel covered in red leather. Designer label: "Escada / Made in Italy" Stamped on inside of shoe: "7 732 B 8" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc87080/
Pillbox Hat
No Description digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc87088/
Pumps
Pair of pumps of brown and beige printed snakeskin. The shoes have 2" high brown, square chunky heel and oval toe. Designer label: "Stuart Weitzman / New York" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc87084/
Oxfords
Lace-up oxford style shoes of brown and beige leather, with a 1" flat heel and oval toe. Brown shoe laces. Designer label: "too / JOAN / & / DAVID / handmade in italy" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc87086/
Pillbox Hat
Pillbox hat of draped chiffon burnout velvet. Cylindrical large pillbox hat with shaped lower rim. The crown is draped/pleated horizontally in a chiffon burnout velvet with printed abstract designs burnt orange, yellow, and blue. Lined in a brocaded blue and sparkly fabric. At lower inside edge is band of gold rickrack. Designer's label inside rim at back: "Sue Dooley / Dallas" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc87083/
Moccasin Pumps
Pair of "Moccasin Pumps" of cream leather. The shoes are designed with a squared toe, and have the look of moccasins and pumps. Instep with extending tongue of same leather, with wide band of same crossing instep and securing on outside with a "V" shape of gold-colored metal. Low, square block heel. Maker's label stamped inside: "Veneziano Inc / Made in Italy" Stamped inside: "35 8899" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc87015/
Pumps
Pair of pumps of steel gray/beige silk. Designed with a rounded toe, the shoes have a wide band of same fabric extending across instep. The 2" high heel is a modified Louis heel. Designer's label inside: "Margaret Jerrold" Retailer's label inside: "Neiman Marcus" Handwritten inside: "7aaa / 13994 / 6933C 3MJ" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc87012/
Shoes
Pair of shoes of brown leather and suede. In a modified "spectator" style, the shoes have a brown leather toe-box, heel, panel over instep, and strap across instep which fastened with a buckle. The remainder of the shoe is of brown suede. The leather panels are eded with bands of tiny holes, and have shaped edges. The chunky heel tapers to base. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc87011/
Gloves
Pair of gloves of white cotton. The daytime gloves are wrist length, with 3 tucks at top along back of hand, and a 1/2" fold-over band at wrist hem. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc87017/
Pumps
Pair of pumps of brocade/tapestry. The shoes are designed with a rounded toe, the uppers covered in a brocade/tapestry cloth consisting of floral forms in greens, reds, blues, etc. on an ivory ground. Heels taper to base. Brand stamped inside: "Custom Craft" and "Custom Craft / Wool / Composition / Insole" Retailer's label stamped inside: "Neiman-Marcus" Handwritten inside: "6 1/2 AA 74721 / 4113 [illeg]" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc87010/
Gloves
Pair of gloves of tan suede. The wrist-length gloves are plain, with hand-stitching. Size/Designer Label stamped inside: "7 / Made in France / by / Roger Fare" Retailer Label: "Neiman-Marcus / Made in France" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc87018/
Pumps
Pair of ivory leather pumps. Designed with broad, rounded toe, the shoes have plain ivory leather uppers. Instep embellished with a removable decorative buckle of square form, set with rhinestones, mounted on curved rectangular plaques of same leather, giving impression of "bows". The 2 3/4" heel tapers to base. Brand label stamped inside: "Custom Craft" and "Custom Craft / Wool / Composition / Insole" Retailer's label stamped inside: "Neiman-Marcus" A & B: Shoes C & D: Buckles digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc87014/
Shoes
Pair of shoes of black patent leather and off-white translucent plastic(?). The shoes are designed with a gently pointed toe, in the spectator style. Toecap, heel, and edging of upper of black patent leather, the rest of the upper of an off-white translucent plastic with a woven texture. The edging along the upper is slightly scalloped, and the shoes are slingback style, with black patent leather straps around heels. The low heels taper to base. Shoe of black patent leather and white translucent plastic; spectator style; slingback. Low heels Brand label stamped inside: "Fiesa" Retailer's label inside: "Sakowitz / Houston" Handwritten inside, partly illegible: "7 1/2B A66[illeg] / A158[illeg]" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc87019/
Gloves
Pair of gloves of white cotton. The plain, daytime gloves are wrist-length. Retailer's label sewn inside: "Made in Western Germany / expressly for / Neiman-Marcus / 100% Cotton" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc87016/
Shoes
Pair of black patent leather "pilgrim style shoes". Designed with a pointed toe that is squared off at tip, the shoes have a black patent leather upper, the instep panel extending up to form a large tongue. Set across instep is a large silver "C" shape simulating a buckle. The chunky heel tapers to base. Inside stamp illegible. Handwritten inside: "6 AA 745" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc87013/
Platform Pumps
Platform pumps of tan Napa leather. The shoes are created so that seven spaced bands of leather rise from the 1" platform and wrap around a single main strap that runs from throat and around heel. The spacing of the bands create an open toe and open sections along the sides of the feet. The 4" modified continental stacked heel is rounded at back and sides and straight across front, and tapers sharply to base. Designer's label inset in sole: "dusica / kotur / sacks hand made in it italy" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc87115/
Sandals
Pair of woman's sandals of pink and silver metallic leather, white leather, and black patent leather. Insole/sole of silver leather with pink leather inner section. Across instep is narrow band of pink, white, and black leather segments set with a single square black faceted gem mounted in silver colored metal. A second matching strap extends from insole, curves across instep, threads through a similar band, then continues around back of heel and back down to reattach to insole on same side it began. This band also set with two square faceted black gems. 3" high spike heel is thick, covered with black patent leather on sides and back and brown leather as sole on front. Designer/Maker's label stamped on insole at heel: "RODO / Since / 1956" within wreath. Impressed in sole: "RODO / [outline of hide] Vero / Cuoio / Made in Italy / 36" With applied sticker on sole showing pictograms indicating what materials make up the parts of the shoe. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc87112/
Pumps
Pair of woman's pumps of iridescent gold leather. Designed with rounded, open toes, inner sides cut-away. The leather has lightly scored parallel lines over the surface, creating a striped effect. Elongated wedge-style heel 4" high. Designer's label stamped in silver on insole: "Fanziska Hübener" Stamped into sole: "Hübener, Fanziska"; a circle with inscription "Vero Cuoio / Hand Made Brazil"; sizes: "BR / 38"; "EUR / 40" and "USA / 9" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc87111/
Pumps
Pair of velour, canvas, and leather pumps. Designed with pointed toes, the pumps have uppers of bright green, red, and navy velour, and black canvas in lengthwise stripes. Along bottom edge of upper is a pebbled leather band which is textured to resemble alligator and which is accented with brown stitching. Stiletto heel 3" in height covered with same textured leather. Suspended from top edge of heel is a gold charmed shaped as an "R". Maker's mark stamped in gold inside shoe: "[R logo] Roberta di Camerina" Stamped on sole: "Vero / Cuoio" and "37". Applied sticker on sole with pictograms indicating which parts are leather. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc87117/
Shoes
Platform heels of lilac, red, and purple leather, and burgundy patent leather. 2 joining straps at front of red and lilac; angular zigzag cut-out around ankle with Mary Jane straps from sides of lilac leather (silver buckle on outside) and a single joining piece of burgundy patent leather across top; 1" platform of purple leather and 4" elongated heel of burgundy patent leather. Designer label: "Franziska Hübener" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc87110/
Gloves
Pair of gloves of ivory colored leather. On back of each glove is a stitched swirl design of 5 ribs. The gloves widen to end with piped hems, and extend to about mid-forearm. Appears to be a youth size. Stamped inside gloves: A) "ARIS" logo in hemisphere; "U.S. Pat. / Aug. 22'22"; and with various stamped numbers inside the glove for sewing and matching pieces. B) "5 3/4"; "U.S. Pat. / Sept 19'22 / Made in Germany"; and with various stamped numbers inside the glove for sewing and matching pieces. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc87118/
Sandals
Pair of sandals made of deep pink leather. Two thick straps extend from sides and meet to form vamp/throat with surmounting bow. A thinner, single strap extends up and across near base of toes. Spike heel is 3" high, and covered with same pink leather. Inset black label on sole with maker's mark embroidered in silver: "Mario Valentino / Made in Italy" Molded into sole: "Mario / Valentino" Stamped into sole: Outline of a hide containing words: "Vero Cuoio / Cuir / Veritable / Leather / Leder Echt"; "Made in Italy"; "39" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc87114/
Gloves
Pair of gloves of kid skin leather; off-white; just below wrist length; single snap fastenings at wrist. On back of each glove, running length-wise down hand are three embroidered bands, pink and blue chevrons in diamond formation on dark blue bands. Cuffs from wrist to end are lined with black silk heavily embroidered with floral motifs in blue, pinks, reds, whites, greens, etc. in chain-stitch. Remainder of glove is unlined. Stamped inside glove: "Modèle déposé [Fr-En: Registered Design] / Paris" and "6" and part of other marks. Metal parts of the snaps have what appear to be Chinese/Japanese characters stamped into them. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc87119/
Sandals
Pair of sandals made of metallic cobalt blue leather. Two thick straps extend from sides and meet to form vamp/throat with surmounting bow. A single strap extends up from sole at heel and is topped by strap to encircle ankle. Strap secures with single silver tear-shaped buckle. Spike heel is 4" high, and covered with same blue leather. Inset black label on sole with maker's mark embroidered in silver: "Mario Valentino / Made in Italy" Molded into sole: "Mario / Valentino" Stamped into sole: Outline of a hide containing words: "Vero Cuoio / Cuir / Veritable / Leather / Leder Echt"; "Made in Italy"; "39" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc87116/
Sandals
Pair of women's sandals of silver metallic leather. Designed as "gladiator style" sandals, with six narrow silver leather criss-crossed or interwoven straps at front over vamp, and six more similar straps extending around ankle and originating from vertical band at heel. 5" zipper along heel band. Designer's label on both sides of sole: "Barbara Bui" Impressed on underside of sole: "Made in Spain" and "40". Attached sticker under sole showing pictograms indicating which parts of shoe are leather. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc87113/
Bonnet
Infant's bonnet of white cotton, possibly as part of a christening set. Lace inset and tucking near brim. Gathered shell. Ties of self. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc87048/
Bonnet
Child's sunbonnet of white cotton. Cotton streamer ties. Channel stitching and eyelet lace ruffle on stiffened visor/brim. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc87049/
Hat
Hat of cream and gray striped fabric. Low, cylindrical crown, flattened at top. At back of crown is band of vertically pleated band of same fabric, which extends to edge of brim. Narrow asymmetrical brim, wider in front. At back of brim is cream bow of thick velvet "string" with trailing ends. Underside of brim lined in cream velvet which extends up to edge the brim. Inner cream grosgrain ribbon hatband. Designer's label on inside hatband: "Lydia / New York" Retailer's label on inside hatband: "Walker-Marr / Dallas" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc87046/
Platform Sling-Back Sandals
Pair of platform sling-back sandals of gold metallic leather. Set on a thick platform, the uppers are formed of 6 bands crossing the instep, with a seventh band extending across the bands at center point. A thicker strap begins at mid-arch of foot, and extends back behind heel, securing with a small buckle. The chunky heel is covered in the same leather as the upper and platform. Designer's label: "Creazioni / de / Antonio / Marsini / Milano / Italia" Written inside: "75M 4810 3J / 02-860" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc87043/
Gloves
Pair of gloves in off-white cotton. Pull-on; wrist length with scalloped ends. Scalloped, curved line down center with 3 French knots in center of each curve. Scalloped edges trimmed with topstitching. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc87035/
Slippers
Pair of slippers of red silk and gold metallic brocade. The shoes are designed with pointed toes, and a panel of gold leather that extends from below the throat, up and over the instep, and almost to the instep, sewn down, and echoing the point of the toes. Crossed with a gold cord bow with large rhinestones set at each end. Almost flats, the shoes have low, carved heels with a profile similar to a compacted Louis heel. Brand stamp: "Gustinettes / Trade Mark" Stamped inside: "6 1/2M 52770" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc87032/