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Abbey Church of Val de Grace
sculpture and entablature blocks at base of dome
Abbey Church of Val de Grace
portal pediment and entablature with Corinthian capitals
Abbey Church of Val de Grace
Diagonal total from SW, with Façade, drum and dome
Abbey Church of Val de Grace
detail fr SW: upper register of Façade, volutes, drum and sculpture
Abbey Church of Val de Grace
Interior: General view toward High Altar
Dôme of the Invalides
Total from South
Dôme of the Invalides
det: left half of entrance Façade, fr S
Fan
Folding fan of bone and satin. Guards and sticks of bone, intricately carved with pierced latticework. Plain off-white silk satin leaf. Chased metal bail ring at pivot with mother-of-pearl beads. Off-white silk tassel tied to bail. Inscribed on silk leaf along one guard: "Hood W. [illeg.] / June 5th /73"; other inscriptions on other guard, too fragile to examine.
Capelet
Two-tiered capelet of midnight blue/black velvet and off-white lace. Capelet extends to about small of back, and has high, standing collar trimmed in dense ruff of tightly gathered of black chiffon. Around throat, along both sides of center front opening, around hem, and on edges and hem of the wide tier (7" at center front, 8" over shoulders) is wide band of off-white floral and scroll lace, placed as an applique along edges. Lined in brown fabric. Designer's label at center back neckline: "Mme. Josse / 3 / Boulevard des Italiens / Paris"
Coat
Coat in trench style of burgundy satin with burgundy dyed fox fur trim on shawl collar and cuffs. Full-length; center front opening. Vertical side welt pockets. Lined in black silk. With tie belt of burgundy satin, 1 1/2" wide; top-stitched. Designer's label at center back neckline: "Fourrure / Givenchy"
Coat
Coat of rust colored suede trimmed at cuffs, neck, center front opening and hem with cocoa colored fox fur.
Evening dress
Evening dress of fuchsia chiffon with black polka dots. Shirred, strapless, sweetheart bodice with draped floor-length skirt; natural waist. Scarf panel snaps from the inside bust line to disguise the center front zipper closure and hook and eye on bodice. Drapes into right panel of the overskirt. Left panel of skirt is secured on the waist with concealed snaps to conceal center front zipper closure on slip. Attached mini-length slip of pink chiffon. Boning in bodice with inner pink grosgrain petersham and hook and eyes; 25" waist. Designer label inside left near zipper: "Givenchy / Made in France"
Cocktail Dress
Cocktail dress of sheer black silk chiffon and lace over tan silk lining.
Ensemble - Jacket and Dress
Ensemble of printed silk. This cocktail or dinner ensemble in the "New Look" consists of a dress and bolero-style jacket of printed floral ikat silk with a black ground and floral design in gray, browns and dark brown/mauve shades. A) The dress is mid-calf-length, sleeveless, and with a boat neckline. Tailored to fit, with side bust and waist darts. Self fabric bow at top of waist gore which releases into a box pleat at the skirt. Slightly dropped waist. Under the sides of front box pleat edges are two knife pleats to create fullness, with darts for slimmer waist. On either side of front bock pleat is a small 1"intake pleat to balance fullness of skirt. Side seams have a lapping box pleat and an small triangular insert from front side seams. Back waist has 4 sets of box pleats, two on either side of center back zipper closure. The dress has built-in under-structure consisting of inner half-slip of off-white satin, and three layers of stiffened netting petticoats, all with horsehair braid at hem. B) The matching jacket is of the same cloth, cropped short in the bolero style. The center-front opening has no closures and is collarless. Raglan style sleeves are tea elbow length. Under sleeve and sleeve cuff is slightly ruched creating a faux cuff look. It is fully lined in a brown silk organza. 4-way underarm gusset. Sewn into the hem are French weights. There is no label in the dress. The jacket has a single designer's label: "Printemps-Ete 1956 / Christian Dior / Paris" which has stamped on it "80615". The "1956" appears embossed, not printed, and the black backing of the label is cut away behind the "1956".
Dress
Dress of olive brown, green, orange, and black plaid wool challis. Trimmed with brown yarn fringe at collar, yoke and hem. Standing collar; gathered to yoke front and back. Knee length. Center front placket closure with seven buttons; long shirt sleeves with button cuff. Side slit pockets. Unlined. Designer label: Saint Laurent / rive gauche / Made in France / Paris Evidence of label removed below designer label.
Evening Gown
Off-white evening gown, upper layer of tulle decorated all-over with gold embroidered flower rhinestones and plastic-covered thread woven into a pattern.
Evening bolero jacket
Bolero style evening jacket of off-white wool. Front opening is heavily embroidered in metal thread, beads and rhinestones. Long sleeves. Closure of two gold tone spherical buttons and loops at hem. Lined in white crepe; shoulder pads. Designer Label: Bruyère / 22, Place Vendôme. Paris
Evening dress
Evening gown of white silk crepe, empire bodice with rhinestones and crystal beads, draped neckline accented with bow of self, sleeveless, floor length. Designer Label: Jeanne Lanvin / Paris
Dress
A) Cocktail dress of ombre pink silk. Midi length. Sleeveless with gathered shoulders. Standing neckline with closure of three self-covered buttons and loops and supplemented with three snaps. Open surplice bodice with hook & loop closure on inserted waist. Wide draped panel at hips extends to form ties at center front. Designer label: Bernard Perris / Paris B) Halter style underdress of black silk. Surplice neckline; tie belt at sides. Center back zipper closure. Designer label: Bernard Perris / Paris
Ensemble
Ensemble consisting of a yellow wool dress with a yellow wool jacket. a) Dress of yellow wool is sleeveless with round neckline; mini-length; stitch detailing at neck and arm openings; stitch detailing at waist of skirt; hook and eye closure at neck (center back); zipper at center back of dress, lined in yellow synthetic. b) Jacket of yellow wool with round collar; snap closure at neckline; 4 gold buttons at center front opening; 12.5" tab of self-fabric at lower back of jacket, adorned with a gold button at each end; pocket at upper left bust; two pockets at bottom of jacket. Designer Label: Made in France / Jean Patou Boutique Paris Retail Label: Made in France especially for Neiman-Marcus B) Dress of yellow wool id sleeveless with round neckline; mini-length; stitch detailing at neck and arm openings; stitch detailing at waist of skirt; hook and eye closure at neck (center back); zipper at center back of dress, lined in yellow synthetic. Designer Label: Made in France / Jean Patou Boutique Paris Retail Label: Made in France especially for Neiman-Marcus
Ensemble
Skirt ensemble with jacket of wool plaid.
Dress
Dress of grey jersey knit wool; boat neck; long sleeve; lower-calf length; low waistband; tucks front and back, top and bottom; pockets at side; 9 gold tone buttons CF; red cotton jersey knit trim; raglan sleeves; shoulder pads. Designer's label at cb neckline: "Chanel / Boutique"
Ensemble
Ensemble of black heavy wool twill. a) Jacket of black wool twill. Double breasted with 8 smooth circular 3/4" black buttons. Full length raglan sleeves and convertible collar. Faux flap pockets at left and right hem with single matching button at center of flap. Fully lined in black silk. Designer's label: "Balenciaga / 10, Avenue George V. Paris" Haute Couture number under designer's label: "95650" b) Skirt of black wool twill. Flared with 3/4" rolled waistband. Street length. Left side zipper with hook and eye. Pleats at left and right of center on front and back with slit pockets inside front pleats. Lined in black silk.
Ensemble
Ensemble of linen blend with green and fuchsia print of trees and flowers. (a) Dress has collarless V-neck; sleeveless; diagonal front snap closure; street length. Lined in emerald green silk. Designer's label: "EISA" (b) Box jacket of same has notched collar and narrow lapels; 3/4 length sleeves. Drawstring-look hem with tie belt of same fabric. Lined in emerald green silk. Designer's label: "EISA"
Formal vest
Vest of cream silk damask in lattice diamond pattern. Single breasted with closure of five self-covered buttons. Shawl collar; three welt pockets. Back and lining of cotton muslin. Adjustable waistband with metal buckle. Buckle reads: Paris /1856 / Solibe / G & [?] C 12
Evening coat
Evening coat of black satin. Full bias cut with 3/4 sleeves. Rolled, standing collar ends with scarf at center front. Ballerina length. Welt pockets at sides. Lined in black silk crepe. Designer's label at center back neckline: "Balenciaga / 10, Avenue George V. Paris" Couture number tag under designer's label: "6131"
Evening dress
Evening dress of black velvet and pink silk crepe. Halter neckline; empire waist; ruched pink bodice with boning. Straight velvet skirt; full length with pink bow at back. Zipper and hook & eye closures at back. Lined in black silk. No labels or tags.
Folding fan
Folding fan with mother-of-pearl sticks and guards. Off-white satin leaf. Gilt metal bail ring at base for suspension. Outer guards have been repaired with a "jeweler's repair" of small metal rivets.
Evening dress
Evening gown of ivory silk knit. Sleeveless; full length. Center front eased at waistline and just above. Skirt is slit up center front from hemline. Rounded neckline forms deep V in back. Center back zipper with hook & eye. Dress has petersham of 2" white grosgrain with shoulder straps of tan organza which attach to dress at top of shoulders. Lined in white silk.
Leather gloves
Pair of gloves of leather; light beige; wrist length. Designer Label: Daureine Reg. Made Expressly for Neiman-Marcus / Dallas / Washable Designer Label: Daureine Guibert Freres / "Haute Couture" Size Label: 6 1/2 / Demi Broad / French Cut
Knit leather gloves
Pair of gloves of brown kid leather. Plain; just below the elbow length. Designer/Retailer Label: Made in France by Roger Fare expressly for Neiman Marcus Size/Material Label: 7 1/2 French Kid Skin Length: 37.5cm; Width: 11cm
Ivory corset
Corset of ivory elasticized fabric and satin with lace trim above bust; fitted with boning; attached garter belts; center-back zipper and hook and eye closure.
Jersey vest
Men’s vest of red cotton jersey with rounded, eye-like motifs of supplemental weft, back of black ribbed knit, armscye trimmed in black and white knit band. Center front zipper closure; high rounded/V-neckline; sleeveless. Unlined. Label at center back neckline: “Jean Paul Gaultier Maille” “52” and fiber content label.
Halter-neck dress
Evening dress of black silk. Full length, wrap around style with sheath skirt. Mimicking a tuxedo-style, menswear-inspired dress. Sleeveless; halter inspired neckline with peak lapel. Left side front has waist seam; right side front has three angles tucks with hook & eye closure. Large round plastic button covers tucks (now missing). Lined in black silk; petersham of matching black silk. 28" waist. Designer's label: Yves Saint Laurent / rive gauche / Made in France / Paris Evidence of tags cut from base of designer label.
Kidskin gloves
Pair of gloves of French kidskin; tan; elbow length. Size/Manufacturer Label: 7 / French Kidskin Manufacturer Label: Made in France Length: 38cm; Width: 12cm
Jersey dress
A) Day dress of blue-grey wool jersey knit. Draped, surplice neckline; long raglan sleeves. Knee length, straight skirt gathers into natural waist. Closure of hidden, covered snaps at center front. Lined in gray silk; padded shoulders; gray grosgrain petersham. Designer Label: Givenchy / Made in France Couture number: 80527
Gloves
Pair of gloves of kid leather; white; 4" above wrist; elastic gathers at top of glove on sides. Writing in left glove: 707-2205-4 Length: 26cm; Width: 8.5cm
Gloves
Pair of gloves of beige cotton; small curved cut out on outer edge; curved stitches at wrist. Label 1 (Inside Left Glove): 7/Made in France/100% Cotton/Exclusive of Ornament Label 2 (Inside Right Glove): 7/Neiman Marcus
Gloves
Pair of gloves of kid leather; white; pull-on; 4" above wrist. Designer Label: ARIS of Paris; Real Kid Manufacturer Label: Machine Washable; 7 Manufacturer Label: Leather Glove; Made in France; 100% Silk Lining; Made in Philippines; Size 7; WPL S931 Length: 27cm; Width: 10cm
Pink gloves
Pair of gloves of pink kid leather. Curved hem; wrist length (bracelet). Elastic gathered at wrist (palm side of glove). Retailer Label: Neiman-Marcus Size Stamp: 6 3/4 Designer Stamp: Lionel Le Grand Retailer Stamp: Neiman-Marcus Manufacturer Stamp: Made in France Length: 22cm; Width: 7.5cm
Leather gloves
Pair of gloves of leather; black; plain; elbow length. Manufacturer Label: 7; Made in France; Washable Designer Label: Gant Chanut Left Glove has a sticker label: "TFC-8" Right Glove has a sticker label: "TFC-8" and "Beth Moore" Length: 38.5cm; Width: 13cm
Pink silk slip
Slip of pink (peach) silk, embroidered with lace inserts and border trim - all handmade.; mid-thigh length; lace bust line and hem with row of pin tucks below bust; rosebud ribbon decoration at center-bust; 1/2" ribbon straps; off white flowers, dragonflies, & bugs embroidered F&B. Trousseau piece. Label: Boue Soeurs/ 9 Rue de la Paix/ Paris/ Expressly For/ Franklin Simon & Co.
Playsuit
Skort set of two piece black and white cotton; checked gingham. a) Blouse with turned down collar, sleeveless. Single breasted with 3 self-covered buttons. Bias piped buttonholes and hidden snaps. Designer's Label at right side seam: "EISA". b) Shorts gathered to 1/2" bias waistband. Folded at hemline and back to waistband. Hook and eyes on waistband with five snaps at center-front opening. Black 2" wide grosgrain sash sewn to center back waistband to tie in front.
Silk blouse
Reptile print silk jacquard blouse, scarf and belt ensemble. A) Blouse of silk in pattern of green jacquard leopard spots on black and white snakeskin background. Soft standing, rolled collar. The collar is secured with a single covered snap. Asymmetric front right opening with five concealed buttons and a snap as the closures. Full-length set-in sleeves with short zippers at the wrists. The front yoke is self faced. Shoulder pads. Designer Label: Givenchy / Made in France Couture Number: 74013 B) Belt of green reptile skin with functional covered buckle. C) Scarf of printed silk to match blouse. Single layer of fabric with turned hem.
Silk blouse
Blouse of gold silk. Turndown collar extends to form tie at neckline. Long sleeves with cuffs close with snap and large gold tone button studded in spiral design of smokey rhinestones. Four hidden buttons at center front. Center back has large inverted pleat; shoulder pads. Unlined. Designer Label: Givenchy / Made in France Couture Number: 79597
Silk blouse
Blouse of silver moire ribbon constructed as horizontal rows of ribbon. U-shaped neckline with V-shaped cutout at center front. Sleeveless; ribbon ties at waist. Center back zipper closure; unlined.
Silk blouse
Blouse of red silk. Four gold buttons down center front; one button on each cuff of long sleeves. Turndown collar extends to form tie at neckline. Center back seam has inverted pleat which is 3" on each side. Shoulder pads; unlined. Designer Label: Givenchy / Made in France Couture Number: 79479
Sequin dress
Dress of peach net covered in iridescent sequins. Wide, deep V-neckline with thick straps. Sleeveless. Scalloped hem, edges trimmed with rose colored glass beads. Sequins follow a sweeping, zigzag and scallop pattern all over the dress. Label at top of back neckline: "Hand Made in / Paris, France"
Evening coat
Cocktail coat of black, elaborate fabric of raised jacquard print, so high it looks like trapunto. Background is an elaboration of little swirls. Print is almost geometric. Roll collar, wrist-length raglan sleeves; set-in pockets (2 on front). Wide silhouette, flared, and about knee-length. Front closure is five large black snaps, inside. Outside for decoration are five black, ball-shaped fringe tassels.
Evening Ensemble
Evening dress of black and white wool satin gaberdine with matching jacket.
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