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  Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
 Decade: 1960-1969
 Collection: Texas Fashion Collection
Hat
Black satin toque hat. Cylindrical in form, with sides curving down along ears/temples. Slightly domed at top, and with an ornament at front consisting of a black satin bow and a group of curled black feathers. Label inside at back: "Balenciaga / 10 Avenue George V / Paris" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30132/
Ensemble - Coat and Skirt
Ensemble. Coat and matching skirt (not shown) of woven upholstery-weight fabric with stylized floral and geometric designs in burgundy and blue/black on a creme ground. Coat is mid-length, flaring slightly to hem, with long sleeves and a center-front opening. The opening, hem, and cuffs are all trimmed in a curly "lamb's wool" died burgundy to match the pattern. Fully lined in burgundy silk(?) With separate sash/belt. Labels in coat: Designer's label "Anne Klein" with lion logo; Dallas, Texas retailer's label "Marie Leavell". Not shown is skirt in matching fabric, mid-length, with no trim. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30196/
Pillbox Hat
Pillbox hat. The short, flat-topped cylindrical crown of tan netting is completely covered with rows of artificial magenta pink silk flowers, which have yellow thread and green plush centers. Inside the lower edge of the crown is a dark green grosgrain ribbon band which has two sections of elastic cord sewn along the sides to form loops to help secure the hat to wearer's head. Label sewn into inner ribbon band: "Eisa" Donor stated that this hat was "...to wear with a black day outfit." digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30148/
Calotte
Calotte of beaded black satin. Evening hat in the form of a calotte (also spelled "calot"). The low, domed crown is made of segments of black satin over a core of woven straw. The surface is embellished with black plastic sequins and beads of various sizes. At top of crown is small squashed spheroid finial covered with a pattern of cylindrical and circular faceted black plastic beads. Inside lower edge of crown is black grosgrain ribbon band. Sewn behind band are three elastic loops to help secure hat to head of wearer. No labels. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30149/
Evening Gown
Evening gown of white silk crepe. Full-length sleeveless dress with round neck and narrow straps and Empire waist. The bodice is heavily beaded with mirror beads and silver rhinestones. The skirt has vertical columns of beads and has heavy beading on hem. Zipper closure along center back. The dress is fully lined in cream fabric. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30180/
Body Suit With Tunic
Ensemble consisting of two pieces. Base garment is a light green knitted silk jersey bodysuit with over-length sleeves and legs. Zipper closure from throat to lower back at center back, with one hook-and-eye closure at top of zipper. Over the bodysuit is a tunic/tabard formed of two long rectangular panels of black silk with white printed polka dots all over. There are thin "straps" simulated at shoulders where panels meet, and a slightly rounded neckline. The panels are sewn at left side for 17 cm. below arm and open the rest of the length. On right side are three snaps and one hook-and-eye closure. The left shoulder is sewn shut, while the right side opens with hook-and-eye closure. The panels are lined in shocking pink silk. Label in bodysuit: At inside left back, just beside zipper: "Rudi Gernreich". Labels in tunic/tabard: At back inside, just below neckline: "Neiman-Marcus / Trophy Room"; At front inside, just below neckline: "Rudi Gernreich" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30029/
Hat
Hat of leopard fur. Similar to a baseball cap, the hat has a pillbox style crown with a crescent-moon shaped visor / brim at front, both completely covered in leopard fur. Around the base of the crown is a black leather hatband. The interior of the crown is lined in a cream brocade cloth, while the visor is lined in leopard. Along the interior base of the crown is a dark brown grosgrain ribbon band. No labels. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30161/
Hat
Hat of black velvet. The hat has a circular, slightly domed, crown completely covered in black velvet. At the front is attached a rhinestone and glass(?) brooch formed as firework spray. The central iridescent faceted stone is surrounded by rays or arms of lines of rhinestones simulating diamonds. Some rays arc over the brooch, some hang down. Most are only partly rigid, so that as the wearer moves the rays shimmer and the stones catch the light. The crown is lined in black fabric, with a black grosgrain ribbon running along the inner lower edge. Attached to the inner ribbon band is a plastic comb to help secure the hat to the wearer's head. No labels. Donor attributed the brooch to Balenciaga. Alternatively attributed to Robert Goossens of Paris, who is known to have supplied Balenciaga. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30164/
Hat
Hat of moss green "plush" velvet. The derby-style hat has domed cylindrical crown with indentations at front and slight crease along crown. Narrow brim, rolled upwards at sides and back. To left of center front is small attached "fan" of various types and colors of feathers. Inside crown is attached small length of black grosgrain ribbon to maintain the front indentations, and a band of black grosgrain ribbon along inside base of crown. Stamped inside crown: Feutre Flechet. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30163/
Evening Dress
Cream silk jersey evening dress / ballgown with beaded decoration and matching belt. A) Full-length gown, bodice embellished with hand-embroidered stylized leaves/buds in cream on a ground of silver, green, and mauve beads. Shoulders and thin collar with solid fields of beading. Short, wide sleeves edged with silver and clear beads. Center back opening with hook-and-eyes at top and bottom, no closure along mid-back. Plain cream silk jersey skirt, gathered into waist. Closure at right hip, with band of hook-and-eyes along back waistline, and series of hidden snaps down from waistline. Bodice lined in silk gauze, skirt lined in heavier cream silk. Inner grosgrain ribbon waistband with hook-and-eye closure. Designer's label at inside waistband: "Givenchy"; under designer's label is hidden design/style # tag with handwritten notation: "54783" B) Belt of cream silk gauze-backed silk jersey, 2" wide x 30" long, completely covered in beading matching bodice. Hook-and-eye closure at ends. No marks/labels on belt. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc87027/
Mini Dress
Mini dress of bright red wool jersey knit. The tubular mini dress has a rounded neckline and short sleeves. Black, shiny vinyl trim at neckline, sleeve hem, lower hem, and in the form of six Pierre Cardin bullseye trademarks arranged in a triangle from natural waist to lower hem. At center back are hook and eye and zipper closure. Dress is unlined. Designer's label: "Pierre Cardin / Paris New York" Care label: "The vinyl trim / on this garment / has been specially treated / to make dry cleaning possible". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc87026/
Dress
Dress of white raw silk and linen blend. The dress is mid-length, with rounded neck and short sleeves. Set in from neckline is a narrow band of red silk with white line print forming a collar with bow at front. The trim is repeated at sleeve hems, and at lower edge of 2 faux pocket flaps at front. The dress is seamed and with short bust darts. Center back zipper closure with hook and loop at neckline. Fully lined in cream fabric. Designer's label at inside left neckline: "Vera Maxwell / Original" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc87006/
Sailor Hat
Hat in sailor style of navy blue straw cloth with 1 1/2" deep pillbox crown. Flat brim 3 1/2" wide at center front and 2" wide at center back. 1 1/4" wide navy velvet ribbon around crown. Trim of small red velvet flowers and tiny white blossoms extending from left side of brim toward center front. Unlined with navy blue grosgrain headband. Elastic band for securing hat to wearer's head. Designer's label on inside headband: "Sharon / Originals" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc276996/
Breton Hat
Hat in modified breton style of pale grey straw with light blue pleated fabric around high crown. Cream colored veil covers entire hat. Unlined. Designer's label on inside headband: "Miss Eileen" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc277021/
Toque Hat
Hat in toque style of black and tan rough straw. Braids of straw interwoven. Lined in black net. Retailer's label on inside headband: "Montaldo's" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc277073/
Hat
Hat of white straw with high crown and headband of white organza which end in bow at side and forms ruffle around brim. Style sometimes referred to as a flower-pot hat. Unlined. Manufacturer's label: "Valerie / Modes" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc277136/
Hat
Picture hat of dark pink/red Milan straw with wide brim. Pillbox crown trimmed with red and white polka dot organdy hatband which forms a bow on the right. Straw brim folds under and is lined in same polka dot organdy as hatband. Two hatpins with cloth covered heads in matching polka dot material. Designer's label on inside hatband: "Sally Victor / 18 East 53rd St." digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc277092/
Hat
Picture hat of natural woven Milan straw, forming a wide shaped brim that curves downwards to the edges. Brim is rounded in front, flaring out slightly to back and forming two projecting lobes at back. Around brim is a band of woven straw for strength. Very low cylindrical crown, slightly domed. Around crown is twisted gold velvet band forming bow with trailing ribbons at back. Inside base of crown is off-white grosgrain ribbon band. Hatpin with green faceted rhinestone head. Sewn into inner ribbon band is label: "John Fredericks Inc. / New York", "Made In America". Label has three rhinestones sewn to it, and has two small green ribbon bows at opposing corners. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc277152/
Fez
Fez of off-white felt with long off-white satin tassel attached at the center of the crown. Retailer's label on inside hatband: "Made to Order Hat / Bergdorf / Goodman / On the Plaza - New York" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc277173/
Breton Hat
Breton style hat of shiny red straw with pillbox crown. High, rolled back brim almost obscures crown. Red grosgrain ribbon covered button and streamers at center top of crown. Wide, red grosgrain ribbon forms hatband around crown. Unlined. Retailer's label on inside hatband: "Sanger Harris / Dallas" Size tag: "22" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc277129/
Hat
Hat of fine Milan off-white straw. Asymmetrical rolled-back brim is high in front and tapers to narrow back. Hatband of off-white organza scarf ties into bow in back as trim. Hatpin with clear, teardrop shaped head. Designer's label on inside hatband: "Atelier Lucas / Made in London" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc277125/
Breton Hat
Modified Breton style hat of hot pink straw with high crown covered with light blue, pink, gold purple and orange silk. Wide rolled-back brim. Lined. Retailer's label on inside hatband: "Sanger Harris / Dallas" Size tag to left of designer's label. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc277029/
Pumps
Pair of black suede pumps. The shoes are designed with rounded toes, ornamented with gold mesh at tips of toe. Thick heel, tapering slightly to base. Manufacturer's mark stamped inside: "Delman / New York / London / Paris" and "Delman" Retailer's label stamped inside: "Sakowitz / Houston" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114929/
Mitts
Pair of off-white nylon mitts. The elbow-length fingerless gloves have a loop for the thumb, and are embellished along the finger opening with a trim of openwork daisy heads. Stamped: "Nylasuede / by Hansen / 6 1/2" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc86995/
Evening Dress
Cocktail or short evening dress of ivory crocheted lace over pink satin back shantung with pink self belt. Machine made lace of Venetian type with re-embroidered medallions. Dress with natural waistline, bateau neckline, sleeveless and slightly full skirt. Back zipper with hook & eye. Weighted hem. Has been altered at waist (cut) to shorten. Atypical of Norell. Designer's label at center back hem: "Norman Norell / New York" Union label on opposite side of seam from designer's label (most cut off). digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc283745/
Beachwear Ensemble - Bikini and Coverup
Beach ensemble consisting of bikini and coverup. The bikini top and bottom are of jersey printed with a modern art design of greens, pink and red stripes. Top has ties that go up and behind neck, and bands that reach around to back and secure with metal clasp. At front, between the cups along top edge is a non-functional tie made of piping made from the jersey material. Bikini bottom is low-cut. The coverup is of light chiffon, possibly silk, with swirling stripes in the same pattern as bikini. It is sleeveless, has a boat neckline, and rounded hemline. The pieces of the ensemble have various tags: In bikini top: "12" In bikini bottom: "Emilio Schuberth / Roma / Fabricato in Italia"; Made in Italy / Exclusively for / Neiman-Marcus"; "Made in Italy"; "12"; Helanca / Filanca / Marche Int. Dep." Stamped near hem of coverup: "Enzo Mari Per / Fio / Rio"; Sewn in tags: "Fio / Rio"; "Emilio Schuberth / Roma / Fabricato in Italia". Pattern designed by Enzo Mari (b. Novara, Italy, 1932). From the original Carrie Marcus Neiman Foundation collection assembled by Stanley and Edward Marcus. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30036/
Cocktail Suit
Cocktail suit of black silk satin consisting of: A) Waist-length jacket formed of vertically arranged heat-set pleats with five horizontal bands applied across the pleats. There is a panel of ivory/off-white silk extending from the neck of the jacket, forming the collar of the jacket and simulating the effect of a blouse being worn under the jacket. The long sleeves are also pleated, with single band near the base of the sleeves, from which extend ivory/off-white silk mock cuffs. Center front opening with three applied black bows on the lower three horizontal bands. The opening is secured with three hook-and-loop closures hidden by the bows. Lined in black silk. Designer's label at inside back neckline: "Chanel" Style number tag beneath designer's label: "10967" B) Matching mid-length skirt of similarly pleated black silk, with a plain waistband and a single horizontal black silk band 2" below the waistband. Three hook-and-loops in the waistband, and four snaps along closure at left hip. Skirt has a single panel of organza lining in back, the rest of the skirt being unlined to allow more movement of the fabric. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc283774/
Dress
Dress of turquoise colored sateen cotton. Sleeveless with square yoked bodice. Lines of horizontal top stitching over body of dress. Two front patch pockets. Center front decorative short, white, plastic zipper. Back zipper closure with hook & eye. Knee length, but hem has been removed. Designer's label at inside back zipper: "Courrèges / Paris / made in france" Style number stamped on designer's label:"0078019" Care instruction/fabric content tag attached to bottom of designer's label. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc283747/
Coat
Coat of deep pink and white plaid wool. Double breasted with six circular plastic deep pink buttons and covered buttonholes. Bracelet length sleeves; street length. Two front vertical single welt pockets. Half belt across back of same material with two circular plastic deep pink buttons and covered buttonholes at ends. Lined in deep pink silk. Designer's label: "Balenciaga / 10, Avenue George V. Paris" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc283737/
Pumps
Pumps of black velvet. The shoes are designed with gently pointed toe and plain uppers. A narrow band of low-pile area outlines the foot opening. The 3 1/8" high spike heel is covered with the same velvet as the upper. Designer's stamp inside: "Andrew Geller / Exquisite Footwear" Retailer's label inside: "Neiman-Marcus" Handwritten inside: "5 1/2 aa / 49199 / S9013a" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc87020/
Evening Dress
Evening dress of black and white wool satin gaberdine with matching jacket. a) Evening dress. Front and back centered panels of white fabric with sides of black fabric. Sleeveless, squared neckline, full length. Center back zipper closure. Very tailored, completely lined in white silk. Designer's label at inside back zipper: "Jean Marie Armand / Paris / Made in France" b) Jacket. Center front opening with four covered snaps. Bracelet length sleeves with turned-back cuffs in white fabric with one pointed end. Peter Pan collar in white fabric. Front and back centered panels of white fabric with sides and sleeves of black fabric. Completely lined in white silk. Designer's label at inside back neckline: "Jean Marie Armand / Paris / Made in France" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc283691/
Picture Hat
Picture hat of natural straw. The low, domed crown is encircled at base by a wide band of lime green grosgrain ribbon with large bow with trailing ends at back right and two trailing ends at left. The wide, circular brim is turned up at left edge. Unlined. Inner hatband of black grosgrain ribbon. Maker's (retailer's?) label sewn to inner hatband: "Henry's / Originals / Dallas". Henrys has been identified alternately as maker or retailer. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc277122/
Picture Hat
Picture hat of natural straw. The domed crown is encircled at base by a wide band of cream grosgrain ribbon with bow at right side. Around the crown, but not on the bow, the ribbon is edged at top with black. The wide circular brim curves upwards from base of crown, then curves down to edge. Unlined. Inner cream grosgrain ribbon hatband. Label sewn to inner hatband: "Florence ... / Dallas" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc277083/
Hat
Hat of green artificial leaves. Designed somewhat as a cloche, the body of the hat is a stiffened mesh forming a domed crown which is completely overlaid with overlapping green artificial leaves. The hat is unlined, with an inner green grosgrain ribbon hatband. Designer's label: "Original Design by / Madcaps / Paris New York": Retailer's label: "I. Magnin & Co." digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc283751/
Pillbox Hat
Pillbox hat of draped chiffon burnout velvet. Cylindrical large pillbox hat with shaped lower rim. The crown is draped/pleated horizontally in a chiffon burnout velvet with printed abstract designs burnt orange, yellow, and blue. Lined in a brocaded blue and sparkly fabric. At lower inside edge is band of gold rickrack. Designer's label inside rim at back: "Sue Dooley / Dallas" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc87083/
Hat
Hat of fine cream straw. The rounded crown is encircled at lower edge by wide pleated band of organdy in graduated shades of pink, tied at right side, with ends extending below the brim. The narrow brim turns up at front and left side, and down at back and right side. Hat is unlined, with inner cream grosgrain ribbon hatband. Designer's label: "Maureen / B-Way - At 89th N.Y.C." digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc277028/
Cloche Hat
Cloche style hat of black shiny straw. Edge curls up and makes small brim on center back. Lined in black net with black grosgrain ribbon inner headband. Designer's label on inside headband: "Galanos" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc305367/
Hat
Hat of black felt wool felt. Possibly for riding, the hat has a cylindrical crown 2" high, slightly domed at top. Encircling the base of the crown is a narrow band of black suede, tied at side. The narrow brim is of the same black felt. material. From sides and back of hat hang a panel of black jersey to protect the wearer's neck from sun. The panel is cut to create extending ties at sides, which secure under wearer's chin. Unlined, with a black grosgrain ribbon inner headband. Designer's label sewn to back headband: "Clover Lane" Stamped inside front of crown: "[coat of arms] / Glenover / Faurn(?) To(?) / Felt / (illegible) / New York / 100% Wool" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc283701/
Hat
Hat of stiffened net and artificial flowers. The hat is formed of a body of stiffened white net. The crown is domed, and has scattered white artificial flowers (4-petaled, possibly stylized dogwood, apple blossoms, or narcissus). The wide brim is upturned at outside to form a deep "well" around the crown, and is more thickly covered with the artificial flowers, primarily on the underside of the brim, from the crown outwards to the upturned edge. The hat is unlined, with a white banding around lower inside edge of crown. Maker's(?) label inside: "Jack McOnnell" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc283670/
Hatlet
Hatlet of artificial flowers and net. The hatlet is composed of a radiating group of artificial rosebuds of pink and white with green stems and leaves. The sprays are attached to a black net circular veil. Designer's label: "By / Therese Ahrens" Retailer's label: "I. Magnin & Co." digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc276987/
Hat
Hat of faux fur (Jaguar?). Constructed on a felt base, the conical crown has a flattened top, and is encircled by a wide band of black grosgrain ribbon. At front of hat ribbon is tied into a bow, and enhanced with a rhinestone-set spherical ornament. The wide brim curves down steeply. The hat is unlined, showing felt base, and has a black grosgrain ribbon inner hatband. Stamped inside the crown: "Imported Body / Made in Austria" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286805/
Toque
Toque of burnt ocher/light brown wool(?). The cylindrical crown is higher in front, with sides slanting down to back. The top of the crown is domed, but slightly sunken, and ornamented with top-stitching lines radiating from the back center of the top. The sides of the crown have similar horizontal top-stitching. The hat has a dark brown leather band at lower edge, almost a tiny visor in front, which extends inside the sides of crown and emerges in back to form a bow. The hat is lined in medium brown satin, and has an inner brown grosgrain ribbon hatband.. Retailer's label: "Neiman-Marcus / Salon" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc305407/
Aviator's Cap Hat
Hat in the form of a black leather Aviator's Cap. The domed ovoid crown is made in six triangular sections, and has straps which extend down and buckle under the chin with two oval gilt metal links. The cap is lined with black satin, and has an inner black grosgrain ribbon hatband. Designer's label: "Adolfo / New York Paris" Retailer's Label: "Amen Wardy / El Paso Texas" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286843/
Hat
Hat of black felt. The low, domed crown is encircled by a band of black net veilling, gathered at front to form a pouf, and with a narrow band of black ribbons, tied at back with a bow. The narrow brim curves up slightly at back. The hat is unlined, with a black grosgrain ribbon inner hatband. Brand(?) label: "Originals / Fifth Avenue / New York" Label of felt maker: "Bodies by / Lee" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc305406/
Picture Hat
Picture hat of muted orange/red straw. The low crown is sunken at edges and domed at center, and is encircled by a wide, gathered band of matching chiffon. The wide, somewhat floppy brim curves downwards and rolls under at edge. The hat is unlined, with a matching grosgrain ribbon inner hatband. It is accompanied by a single hatpin with a matching bead head. Retailer's label: "Neiman-Marcus / Salon" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286864/
Hat
No Description digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286794/
Pillbox Hat
Pillbox hat of black velvet. The low, cylindrical crown is flattened on top, and has a black sequined and black cording ornament consisting of stylized scrolls and rosebuds(?) covered in black sequins. At back of hat is a stiff inverted black velvet cording tri-lobed ornament shaped as a "club" card suit. Lined in a dark gray satin, and with a dark gray inner grosgrain ribbon hatband. With gray elastic cord to help secure hat to wearer's head. No labels in hat. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc283704/
Pillbox Hat
Pillbox hat of black silk faille. The cylindrical crown is flat at top, and has one large ruby red silk rose at center front of the side. Lined in black satin, with a single comb inside to secure hat to wearer's head. No label in hat. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc305384/
Hat
Hat of ivory leather. Narrow brim curves up in back and down in front. High cylindrical crown. Entire hat has horizontal top stitching with exception of narrow hatband. Lined in pink silk with white grosgrain ribbon inner headband. Designer's label: "Yves Saint Laurent / Paris Chicago" Size tag at left of designer's label: "22" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc305349/
Hat
Pillbox style hat covered with blue-green-blackish iridescent coque feathers. Trim of brown horsehair and high standing feathers of self from center of crown. Brown felt interior crown with brown grosgrain ribbon inner headband. Two combs at sides for securing hat to wearer's head. Retailer's label: "Titche's / Dallas" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc305371/