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UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Texas Fashion Collection
- Toque Hat
Hat in toque style of black and tan rough straw. Braids of straw interwoven. Lined in black net.
Retailer's label on inside headband: "Montaldo's" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc277073/
Hat of natural straw. The conical hat has a rounded top, and a "waist" part way down where the curve of the hat changes. The entire hat is overlaid with bands of colored raffia (blue; white; yellow; orange; dark blue; purple; and green) extending from the top of the crown to the brim. From the top of the hat extends a tassel/streamers of the same strands of raffia. Unlined, with white inner hatband, and a white string attached to help secure hat to wearer's head.
Label attached to back of crown: "Made in Japan"
Written on inner headband in blue marker: "77 [illeg]" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc277037/
- Toque Hat
a) Toque of red/orange and yellow print wool. Two hatpins with spherical heads covered in material matching toque and head scarf. Lined in white with "Mr John" pattern in gold.
Designer' label on inside hatband with rhinestone studded, tabbed ends: "Mr. John"
b) Scarf of matching material with large square of lattice work crochet netting of red/orange in middle of scarf to provide veiled effect.
Designer's label: "Mr. John" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc277084/
Hat of very pale green felt and beading. The hat is styled as a calotte (also spelled "calot"), with slightly shaped crown embellished with scattered transparent gray beads, pearl beads, and rhinestones. Unlined. Inner hatband of black grosgrain ribbon.
Label sewn to inner hatband: "Henrys / Dallas
Henrys has been identified alternately as maker or retailer. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc277053/
Hatlet of three black velvet rings over black net embellished with rhinestones. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc277079/
Pair of woman's shoes of pearlized plastic fabric. Designed with a squared toe, the shoes are lined in silver leather, and have square heels covered in same silver leather.
Designer's label in left shoe: "Herbert Levine"
Retailer's label in right shoe: "Amen Wardy / El Paso Texas"
Handwritten note inside shoe: "7 1/2 M / 26753" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc277067/
- Capulet Hat
Capulet style hat of red silk faille with 3 folds of self on either side. Red, slightly stiffened nose veil.
Designers label: "MR. JOHN"
Measurements: (Veil not included in measurements)
L: 13 cm
W: 49 cm
H: 11 cm digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc277080/
Hat of sequins and beading. The hat is styled as a calotte (also spelled "calot") with shaped crown covered in iridescent sequins of light blues, with a large flower-head on either side embellished with pale blue and white sequins, gray bead, and pearls. The petals of the flowers extend below edge of crown. Overlaid with pale blue light mesh veil. Lined in lace.
Designer's label inside: "A / Frances & Walter Nelkin / Hat", with a red sequin sewn in each upper corner of label. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc277046/
- Evening Shoes
Pair of evening shoes of purple satin. Designed with pointed toes, the shoes have three paired rhinestone-set stripes running across the toes: the first with a stripe of black and yellow, the second with a stripe of black and red, the third with a stripe of black and green. High spike heel covered in matching purple satin.
Maker's mark stamped inside: "Herbert Levine"
Retailer's label stamped inside: "Neiman-Marcus"
Handwritten inside: "4B 7889 H9913-4LR" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc277061/
- Calotte Hat
Calotte style hat of black cabochons and bugle beads. Black velvet piping at edges. Lined in black netting. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc277099/
- Calotte Hat
Calotte style hat of black satin. Bow of black satin as trim. Net at back of hat. Hatpin with head covered in matching satin. Lined. Comb at inside front of hat for securing hat to wearer's head.
Retailer's label: "A. Harris & Co. / Dallas"
Union/size label to right of retailer's label. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc277085/
Pair of sandals of tan leather resembling reptile. Designed with pointed toe, the shoes have solid toebox and three straps crossing the instep. Another strap extends from toebox up vamp, across straps, to ankle strap. Ankle strap connects to sides of heel at sole, and fastens along outer side with small gold buckle. Heel above sole is open, creating a "sling-back" effect. Low heel of a modified Louis style.
Designer's label stamped inside: "Designed by / Evins"
Retailer's label inside: "Neiman Marcus"
Handwritten on strap, partly illegible: "9 W ..... / +41 .... 65-14..." digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc277056/
Hat of white feathers. The domed crown fits close to the head, and is totally overlaid with long white feathers radiating down from the crown, creating a "blond wig" effect. At top of crown is an attached thin white string/piping bow. Hat lined in off-white fabric. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc277095/
- Calotte Hat
Calotte style hat of black velvet with black net veil in front. Lined in green fabric.
Retailer's label: "Saks Fifth Avenue / Debutante" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc277045/
Child's poke-type bonnet of white silk. Completely shirred and trimmed with white satin ribbon, outlined with lace. High crown to which circular shirred flange has been added.
Label inside crown mostly illegible; last word is "Chicago". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc277051/
Handbag of multicolored glass beads in floral garden pattern with birds. Silver metal frame in rectangular shape with red jeweled snap closure. Bag has rounded corners at bottom, transparent beaded fringe and chain handle. Pink satin lining. Trimmed with bead fringe. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc277012/
Handbag of glass beads of boldly colored shades of green, yellow, red, blue, pink and black in a somewhat stylized floral design. Bronze frame cast with floral forms and openwork, and set with navy blue and green cabochons. Roses on frame have remains of applied coloration. Suspension chain in rope form with spaced clusters of green and blue beads. Bag has looped and twisted fringe at bottom composed of green and black faceted beads. Pink satin lining, mostly deteriorated. Ball and socket filigree closure. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc277055/
Headband hatlet made of black straw bow alternating with black silk bow in layers. Veil with chenille balls in diagonal pattern. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc277048/
Hat of brown leather with 2 visors, front and back, as brim. Looks like a jockey riding cap with back and front brims. Brown grosgrain ribbon ties and bow across top of crown. Lined in tan colored silk.
Designer's label on inside crown: "Sally Victor / New York"
Retailer's label on inside headband: "Amen Wardy / El Paso - Texas" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc277001/
- Evening Pumps
Pair of reddish-pink or coral silk satin evening pumps. Square toe shoes which have a large open area on the vamp which is backed by clear plastic and edged by braid. The plastic is overlaid with a metal net or chain mail with rhinestones at the intersections. 2 1/4" square heel covered with same material. Lined in off-white/gray leather.
Stamped inside each shoe: "Made in Italy / Espressly / For / Lou Lattimore" (Espressly rather than Expressly); and "Creation Mancini / Paris / Waltea made in Italy"
Stamped on sole of each shoe: "8" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc277042/
Pair of pumps of clear plastic and beige leather. Designed with a slightly pointed toe, the uppers are mostly of clear plastic, with a beige leather toe-box and heel, and edged in same leather. At instep is bow of same leather band. Low heel tapers to base.
Designer's label inside: "Herbert Levine"
Written inside: "7a / 65584" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc277008/
- Picture Hat
Picture hat of natural straw. The domed crown is encircled at base by a wide band of cream grosgrain ribbon with bow at right side. Around the crown, but not on the bow, the ribbon is edged at top with black. The wide circular brim curves upwards from base of crown, then curves down to edge. Unlined. Inner cream grosgrain ribbon hatband.
Label sewn to inner hatband: "Florence ... / Dallas" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc277083/
Red leaf hat. Rounded conical hat of netting partly covered with red and pink silk leaves. Inside the hat, which has aspects of both a cloche and a toque, at the base of the crown, is a band of red grosgrain ribbon.
Sewn into the ribbon band is designer's label: "Balenciaga / 10 Avenue George V Paris". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc277030/
Headband of pink velvet ribbon in bow design with streamers down back. Comb for securing headband to wearer's head. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc277078/
Hat of navy felt. Somewhat like a cloche in style, the had has a low, rounded crown, with narrow turned-up brim at front. At right side are two fans or "conch shaped" decorations of navy grosgrain ribbon. The hat is overlaid at front with a navy veil. Inner navy grosgrain ribbon hatband. Accompanied by a plain black-headed hatpin.
Designer's label sewn to inner hatband: "Hazel Eller - Custom Made" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc277093/
Women's flat shoes with brown leather sole, patent leather cream insole with designer's marks. Cotton blended fabric covers the whole foot up to the cinched ankle where there are two small straps of the same fabric to tie behind heel with a vertical seam down center and a slightly pointed toe. The fabric has a printed pattern of colored squares in aqua, blue, purple and periwinkle, with scattered printed signatures by the designer, "Emilio".
Designer's marks on each sole: "Creation / Albion / Florence / Made Expressly / For E. Pucci" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc277026/
Picture hat of dark pink/red Milan straw with wide brim. Pillbox crown trimmed with red and white polka dot organdy hatband which forms a bow on the right. Straw brim folds under and is lined in same polka dot organdy as hatband. Two hatpins with cloth covered heads in matching polka dot material.
Designer's label on inside hatband: "Sally Victor / 18 East 53rd St." digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc277092/
- D'Orsay Pumps
Pair of D'Orsay pumps in black ribbed silk. Styled with the sides cut-away, the shoes are designed with pointed toes, having toebox and heel of ribbed black silk similar in texture to grosgrain ribbon or corduroy. Across instep is flat bow of black silk grosgrain ribbon with rhinestone-set buckle along outer side. The stiletto heels are set under, and taper to base.
Maker's label inside: "Herbert Levine"
Retailer's label inside: "Neiman-Marcus"
Handwritten inside: "5 1/4 A 1613-7LJ / 56672 digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc277014/
- Evening Gown
Gown of black jersey crepe with halter top embellished with gems, pearls, and patent leather pin wheels; halter top is trimmed in silver flat chain; jersey is gathered at center-front neckline and center-back; full-length with hip-length, center-front slit; center-back zip closure.
Designer's label: "Carolina Herrera / New York" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc330336/
Coat of royal blue and dark magenta striped silk with matching belt.
A) Coat of royal blue and dark magenta striped silk. Double breasted with 10 1-inch gold with inlaid mother-of-pearl buttons and 5 bound buttonholes. Bermuda collar. 3/4 length sleeves with 3" band cuffs. Two large patch pockets at sides. Lined in navy silk. Four large, covered snaps supplement closure. Coat has been altered by stitching front closed at lower portion of opening to form a "dress".
Designer's label at center back neckline: "Norman Norell / New York"
B) Covered belt in matching royal blue and dark magenta striped silk. Three inches wide with self covered, rectangular cinch buckle. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc330388/
- Skirt Suit
Black, rust and brown herringbone wool suit.
a) Coat of black, brown and rust herringbone wool. Single breasted with three circular brown buttons with cut tops. Long, set-in sleeves. Brown fur collar. Yoked shoulders and box pleats at left and right sides and two pleats down the back. Lined in taupe silk satin.
Designer's label at center back neckline: "Traina-Norell / New York"
b) Skirt of black, brown and rust herringbone wool. Below knee length; A-line. Left side zipper with 2 hook & eyes on waistband. Lined in rust colored silk. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc330375/
- Ensemble - Dress and Coat
Ensemble consisting of two pieces:
A) Dress of gray striped cashmere with scoop neckline and long sleeves with rolled hem and edges; wide, horizontal stripes of alternating gray and light gray; tunic-length.
B) Coat of discs of laminated news clippings sewn on white jersey knit with wide silver fox trim at neckline, opening, and cuffs; lined in champagne satin; mid-length. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc330379/
- Ensemble - Coat, Skirt, and Blouse
Ensemble consisting of:
A) Dress coat of camel color wool gabardine. Single breasted with four circular, ivory, plastic buttons with bound buttonholes. Street length. Notched collar. Large pleat down center back. Long set-in sleeves with band cuffs having a single matching button with bound buttonhole. Four patch pockets with flaps - two smaller pockets at breast and two larger pockets at hips. Each pocket is trimmed with a functioning, smaller matching button with bound buttonhole. Lined in tan silk.
Designer's label at center back neckline: "Norell"
Retailer's label below designer's label: "Sakowitz / Houston"
Union label at left armhole.
B) Belt of cream colored leather. 3/4" wide with rectangular buckle covered in same.
Reverse stamped: "14 611"
C) Shell blouse of ivory silk knit. Sleeveless with jewel neckline. Center back zipper with hook & eye. Lined in cream silk satin
D) Skirt of camel color wool gabardine. Slightly A-line; knee length. Left side zipper closure with two large hook & eyes on waistband. Lined in tan silk.
Designer's label on inside left seam of lining: " Norman Norell / New York"
Handwritten style number label: "24787-611-14"
Union label below designer's label. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc330395/
- Evening Dress
Evening dress of ivory silk crepe with over-layer of ivory organza; layered, tiered rectangles of ivory organza down front; strapless bodice silhouette with attached fine cord straps at top of a rectangle of light brown tulle with layered ivory organza rectangles over it; rectangle goes above the bodice top at the center-front; side-zip closure; full-length.
Designer's label: "Akris" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc330355/
Coat of purple wool. Double breasted with 8 large, round, purple plastic buttons and 4 bound buttonholes. Long sleeved with slight flair to hem. Knee length. A-line with two vertical welt pockets. Rounded neckline with 1-1/4" mandarin collar. Lined in light purple silk taffeta.
Designer's label: "Norman Norell / New York" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc330372/
Dress of various color blocks of blues, browns, pinks, and yellow knit with 2 ¾” single shoulder strap and waistband of dark red knit; some of the geometrical blocks blocks are accented with gems, beads, and/or sequins; dress is full-length and slim fitting with 26” slit at center-back; left side-zip closure under left arm.
Designer's label: "Missoni / Made in Italy" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc330352/
- Skirt Suit
Skirt suit ensemble:
A) Blazer jacket of black silk gaberdine. Short waist with notched collar. Double breasted with four 1" mother-of-pearl buttons; closure reinforced with clear plastic button inside jacket. Three-quarter length, set-in sleeves with snap closure at slit. Two false pockets with rectangular flaps. Lined in black silk faille.
B) Skirt of white linen. Knee-length skirt with 1 inch waist band. Slightly A-line. In-seam front panel pockets. Left side zipper closure with two large silver colored hook and eyes. Skirt looks to have been let out at hem. Lined in ivory silk.
Designer's label on inside left seam of lining: "Norman Norell / New York" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc330343/
- Ensemble - Dress and Coat
A) Coat of cream and orange wool gabardine. Approximately knee-length cream wool coat, with rounded neckline. Asymmetrical front opening set to left of center with 5 large circular white ceramic or plastic buttons with bound buttonholes. Long sleeves with orange cuffs buttoning with two matching buttons. Three orange flap pockets - two on right, one on left - with bound slit pocket under flap. Collar, opening, cuffs, and pocket flaps of orange wool gabardine. Lined in cream silk crepe.
Designer's label inside at back collar: "Norell".
Retailer's label at inside right seam: "Esther Wolf / Houston"
B) Dress of bright orange wool gaberdine. Knee-length, with rounded neckline. Sleeveless. Bust darts. Wide straps. Left shoulder with 5 hook-and-eyes closure. Left side zipper at bodice, and second zipper and three hook and eyes at skirt. Skirt slightly gathered at natural waistline. Side seam pockets. Lined in orange silk.
Designer's label at inside skirt lining seam: "Norman Norell / New York"
Union Label near designer's label.
Care label inside at left side seam: "DO NOT USE STEAM IRON"
Small label at inside front neckline: "FRONT" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc330340/
Dress of violet paisley silk crepe with black, cream, and teal accents; crepe is gathered at neckline and attached to a brass metal neck adornment with open-front; V-neckline bodice wraps around at front into wide waistband; side-zip closure under left arm; large, loose bracelet-length sleeves are gathered at the wrists into a ½” cuff with a single button closure; knee-length skirt is heavily gathered into waistband and has an attached slip of red crepe.
Designer's label: "Etro" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc330511/
- Skirt Suit
Suit in navy wool trimmed in flat black cording.
A) Jacket of navy blue wool with woven, checked pattern. Double breasted with eight black fabric covered buttons and four bound buttonholes. Notched collar. Collar and center front of jacket trimmed with black flat cording. Long sleeves with turned-back cuffs trimmed with black flat cording and two small black fabric covered buttons each with two bound buttonholes. Two pockets trimmed in matching cording. Lined in blue silk.
Combined designer/retailer label at center back neckline: "Neiman-Marcus Dallas / Traina-Norell"
B) Skirt of navy blue wool with woven, checked pattern. A-line and knee length with nine panel construction. 1 1/2" waistband with left side zipper and four hook & eye closure. Unlined. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc330502/
Jacket of black silk satin. The jacket, formed as a basque bodice with typical close-fitting achieved by seaming, has extended front panels and is edged with ivory lace. The jacket is embellished with dark blue velvet and olive brown chenille appliques of floral and leaf forms and black jet beading. Lined in ivory silk satin.
Photograph is from the exhibition Haute Couture - The Great Paris Designers, held at The Grace Museum, Abilene Texas, October 17 - December 30, 2000, and shows jacket as displayed with a period hat (Accession #: 1981.015.001) and skirt (Accession #: 1967.025.099). digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc29991/
Woman's suit consisting of three pieces, a coat, blouse, and skirt. Coat and skirt are made of navy blue wool. The coat has a center front opening, and long sleeves which end just above wrist. The skirt is slightly below mid-calf length. The blouse is made of rust-colored chiffon with rounded neck, and is decorated with beading and embroidery. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc29994/
- Evening Coat
Evening coat of gold metallic brocade in a floral motif with multicolored rectangles. Cocoon-style, with white fox collar, the full-length barrel sleeves with matching fur trimmed cuffs. The coat has a single button closure, and pink silk satin lining. Label: "Hattie Moss, Philadelphia, Pennsylvania" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc29999/
Dress of rose pink rayon and silk, with ivory silk Peter Pan collar and with cut-out stitched trim. 24 silver ball buttons on left side, and geometric triple-tiered ruffles with drop-waist and self-fabric belt with silver buckle. Long, straight sleeves with ivory satin cuffs with stitched trim; single snap closure. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc29996/
Bonnet of blue silk. Brim is hand-quilted in square corners and curving lines that follow the shape of the brim in even lines. The brim is composed of 3 pieces of silk fabric, which are pieced together and then quilted. Cotton used as batting material throughout. The crown is entirely quilted in rows of horizontal stitching and radiating circles. The tail has L-shaped quilting, which echoes the front edge of the tail. The chin ties are striped silk ribbons. Some areas of fabric loss and shattering on bonnet and ties. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc29993/
Dress. Bodice of vertically striped blue and black satin with short sleeves in black. Shallow v-neck trimmed with band of gold net ribbon which continues down center of back to waist. Bodice has black band just below bust line as "hem". Below this hem is pleated sash of blue and black striped materials at raised waistline, and a second band of the striped material running vertically from below "hem" to under top tier of skirt. Mid-calf-length black skirt with two vertical tiers of long box pleats from waistline. Bodice is lined in cream silk(?) with wide ribbon inner waistband, with cream-trimmed pads added at underarms. Skirt is lined in black. Garment fastens down back from neck to mid-thigh with a series of hook-and-eye and hook-and-loop closures. Sash around waist fastens at center front and has hook-and-loop closures running around left side to back. Garment has no labels. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc29990/
- Evening Coat
Evening coat of black and gold brocade in a large scale tropical motif. The wrap-style coat has a shawl collar of red fox fur with kimono style sleeves trimmed in fox. The coat is fully lined in gold silk velvet. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc29997/
- Afternoon Dress
Afternoon dress of dark green silk satin, crepe and chiffon. The tunic-style dress of dark green silk satin is street-length, with a drop waist. It has a slight standing collar at back which extends out in front to become long ties with a backing of dark maroon. Below the bow formed by the ties is V-shaped neckline. The full-length sleeves are dark green silk satin from shoulders to elbows and are translucent green crepe from elbows to cuffs. The main part of the gauze sections are embroidered with floral motifs in red, pink, and green/gold. The sleeves have two snaps at each cuff, which are trimmed with bands of pink crepe, maroon crepe, and dark green satin. On the front of the skirt are three wide, slightly overlapping tiers of fabric, split at center front, which start below the hips and end slightly above the hem.
The dress is unlined, and there are no tags or labels. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc29995/
Pumps of beige snakeskin. The shoes with square toe, and square 2 1/4" high chunky heel.
Designer label: "Adolfo / Couture / Made in Italy" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc87085/
- Pillbox Hat
Pillbox hat of tan fur. Low circular crown covered in light tan fur, likely mink. Lined in pink fabric with band of blue fabric inside lower edge, overlaid with gold rickrack band. On each side along inside lower edge is a small brown plastic comb secured by black elastic cord to secure hat to wearer's head.
Designer's label inside at back: "Sue Dooley / Dallas" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc87082/