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  Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
 Decade: 1960-1969
 Collection: Texas Fashion Collection
Hatlet
Hatlet of green velvet, artificial flowers and crystals. The circular crown formed of an open ring covered with velvet, embellished with a dense covering of velvet and silk artificial flowers and with scattered crystals/rhinestones. The hatlet is overlaid with a fine green net/veil. The underside of the hatlet is lined in green mesh and edged with green velvet. Two small plastic combs are attached by elastic combs, to secure the hatlet to wearer's head. Maker's label sewn to underside of hat: "Bes-Ben / Made in Chicago". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc38085/
Pillbox Hat
Pillbox style hat of lacquered black straw. The cylindrical crown is slightly domed, the sides slightly convex. Embellished with a single large faceted black plastic button "jewel" attached at side. The whole is overlaid with black net/veil, with scattered spherical black beads sewn to the net/veil. The interior of the crown is lined in black cloth and black mesh. Around the edge is an inner black grosgrain ribbon hatband. Attached to the hatband are two small plastic combs to secure the hat to wearer's head. Designer's label sewn to hatband: "Bes-Ben / Made in Chicago". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc38082/
Hatlet
Hatlet of blue embroidered appliques. The irregularly-shaped skull-cap is formed of stiffened blue mesh with a wired edge covered in dark navy blue velvet. Over the surface of the hatlet are applied navy blue embroidered appliques of coiled braid and French knots. Stray threads indicate the hat probably had an overlaying net/veil, now missing. Underneath the hat are attached two small plastic combs to secure hatlet to wearer's head. Designer's label sewn inside hat: "Bes-Ben / Made in Chicago", and a second, hand-written label indicating the style(?): "346". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc38088/
Hatlet
Hatlet of light orange straw. The hat is formed as an openwork bow made of a ribbon of woven light orange straw. The bow curves to fit the shape of the head, with all edges trimmed in orange glass beads. Two small plastic combs are attached to the underside of the hatlet to secure it to wearer's head. Designer's label sewn to underside of hatlet: "Bes-Ben / Made in Chicago"; and hand-written style label "620" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc38084/
Hatlet
Hatlet of beaded openwork. Hatlet in calot (also spelled "calotte") style formed as an irregularly shaped openwork skullcap of stiffened mesh completely covered in small brown beads. Around the lower edge of the skullcap are protruding sections, shaped as stylized lobed leaves, covered with same brown beads and with many stiffened loops of smaller brown beads. Hatlet lined in stiff brown mesh and edged with thin strip of brown velvet. Designer's label inside hatlet: "Bes-Ben / Made in Chicago". Gift of Mrs. William O. Hunt, of Finders Keepers, Chicago, Illinois. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc38089/
Hatlet
Hatlet of black faille and velvet. In the form of a modified fillet or bandeau that sits atop head and extends from ear to ear, the hatlet is formed of a pair of curved segments of black cotton faille with black beaded edging that cross and are "tied" with a band of black velvet, giving the effect of a black velvet bow edged in beads. Lined in black velvet, which is visible at front where edges curve upwards. Attached black elastic string in back to secure to wearer's head. Stray threads suggest hat may have had a veil, now missing. Designer's Label: "Bes-Ben / Made in Chicago". Gift of Mrs. Meg Gordon, Chicago, Ill. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc38083/
Evening Pumps
Pair of reddish-pink or coral silk satin evening pumps. Square toe shoes which have a large open area on the vamp which is backed by clear plastic and edged by braid. The plastic is overlaid with a metal net or chain mail with rhinestones at the intersections. 2 1/4" square heel covered with same material. Lined in off-white/gray leather. Stamped inside each shoe: "Made in Italy / Espressly / For / Lou Lattimore" (Espressly rather than Expressly); and "Creation Mancini / Paris / Waltea made in Italy" Stamped on sole of each shoe: "8" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30216/
Kipper Tie
Wide kipper tie of large stylized paisley designs in yellows and gold on a blue field. Blue is somewhat faded from the original shade. The tie has a tag on reverse marked "Brent" and with the logo for Montgomery Ward. The creation of the kipper tie, a form of extra-wide necktie known for bright colors and patterns, is credited to British designer Michael Fish. He brought out the earliest ones in the 1960's. This example was a gift to the donor by his maternal grandmother, Mary Kathleen King Miller (1898-1969). digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30325/
Boots
Pair of brown suede boots. Almost knee-high, the boots are constructed as slip-on rounded-toe shoes or moccasins with added segments on the quarter to create the length of the boots. At the top, the suede of the boots is folded over outwards forming a pocket for a drawstring around top and a band of suede fringe around the outside of the boot. Indistinct trademark/logo stamped on sole. Illegible stamped mark inside boots. Referred to as "Squaw Boots", these were worn by the donor who acquired them in 1968 from the Fishing Bridge Store, in Yellowstone National Park. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30322/
Jeans
Pair of commercially produced Wrangler denim jeans that were found in the southern Rocky mountains across from Red River, New Mexico in the late 1960's. The pants had been bleached in irregular patterns by the sun, and had various worn and torn places. After discovery, the Wranglers were embellished with red velour fabric pieces to cover some of the worst structural damage, and with a commercially available embroidered butterfly patch added below waistband at center back. Labels: Evidence of rectangular tag having been sewn on right-side back pocket. Both back pockets have "W" stitching; Fly button engraved "Wrangler"; Tag sewn inside fly: "Wrangler / 30 x 34 / Sanforized / Made in U.S.A."; Zipper pull stamped "Gripper Zipper" and "Pat Pending"; Marked on left front pocket, inside pants: "GDW" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30327/
Jeans
Pair of jeans. Commercially manufactured Levi Strauss & Co. denim blue jeans which have been bleached to white, then disassembled and reassembled with embellishments of multi-color crewel embroidered fabric and glass beads. Jeans have two front pockets and two back pockets, front zipper fly and button at waistband. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30328/
Shirt
Homemade, long-sleeved shirt of gold brocade, with straight button front, in the popular Elvis Presley or Renaissance style of the late 1960's. Multiple ballooned areas on the sleeves. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30324/
Vest
Vest of blue, red and white suede. The blue body of the vest has star-shaped cut-outs, revealing the white lining. From the body of the vest hangs floor-length red fringe. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30329/
Belt And Buckle
Belt of finished black leather having a large openwork chrome buckle designed as letters spelling out "PEACE", within a rectangular frame. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30326/
Mini Dress
Sheath-style mini dress of pink linen with all-over eyelash fringe. The linen-weave garment is sleeveless, with rounded neckline. It is printed with an elongated honey-comb pattern in shades of pink and white with woven-in fringe throughout. At each shoulder is three circular pink cloth covered buttons. The honeycomb pattern starts out light pink, and darkens towards the hem of the dress. Lower hem is dagged, following the line of the pattern. Lined at hem and upper part in pink. Label in center back inside: "Remas / of Scottsdale" 96 cm. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30138/
Toque
Toque of black satin. Pillbox-like hat has cylindrical crown, slightly domed, and is completely covered in black satin. At front, near base of crown, is a black satin bow from which rises a spray of black feathers. Interior of crown fully lined in black satin, with a black grosgrain ribbon band at base of crown. Sewn to the inner ribbon band is a plastic comb to secure the hat to the head of the wearer. No labels. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30134/
Raincoat
Raincoat of navy and white horizontal striped patent vinyl. The A-line coat is of short length, extending to just above the knee, and has long sleeves. Center-front opening has wide overlap, and is secured with 4 snaps. There are two side-seam pockets, and a red vinyl belt with square buckle. The coat is fully lined in dark maroon/purple/red taffeta. Coat has single label: "La Flaque / de Paris". Belt has repeated stamped on reverse: "Excel / Backing Guaranteed Wash or clean / as garment" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30139/
Hat
Hat of black silk chiffon. The hat is formed from a cylindrical pillbox style hat surmounted by a conical section that is folded back and flares out to form an extension behind the hat. Where the surmounting piece meets the pillbox is a black bow formed from the same cloth. Inside of crown is lined in stiff black netting, and has a black grosgrain ribbon running along the base of the crown. A small plastic comb is sewn in front of hat to inner ribbon to secure it to wearer's head. No labels. The donor records that "... Balenciaga showed it with dress and sleeveless coat..." digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30135/
Hat
Black satin toque hat. Cylindrical in form, with sides curving down along ears/temples. Slightly domed at top, and with an ornament at front consisting of a black satin bow and a group of curled black feathers. Label inside at back: "Balenciaga / 10 Avenue George V / Paris" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30132/
Toque
Toque covered with a mosaic of feathers. The high, cylindrical, domed crown of the hat is completely covered with a mosaic of various types and colors of feathers including yellow with black edge, iridescent green, blue, orange, burnt sienna, browns, and iridescent grays. Fully lined in dark brown felt. Inside hat, at base of crown, is a hot-pink hatband of grosgrain ribbon. Sewn to inner ribbon band is maker's label: "Frank Olive / New York" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30197/
Ensemble - Coat and Skirt
Ensemble. Coat and matching skirt (not shown) of woven upholstery-weight fabric with stylized floral and geometric designs in burgundy and blue/black on a creme ground. Coat is mid-length, flaring slightly to hem, with long sleeves and a center-front opening. The opening, hem, and cuffs are all trimmed in a curly "lamb's wool" died burgundy to match the pattern. Fully lined in burgundy silk(?) With separate sash/belt. Labels in coat: Designer's label "Anne Klein" with lion logo; Dallas, Texas retailer's label "Marie Leavell". Not shown is skirt in matching fabric, mid-length, with no trim. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30196/
Pillbox Hat
Pillbox hat. The short, flat-topped cylindrical crown of tan netting is completely covered with rows of artificial magenta pink silk flowers, which have yellow thread and green plush centers. Inside the lower edge of the crown is a dark green grosgrain ribbon band which has two sections of elastic cord sewn along the sides to form loops to help secure the hat to wearer's head. Label sewn into inner ribbon band: "Eisa" Donor stated that this hat was "...to wear with a black day outfit." digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30148/
Calotte
Calotte of beaded black satin. Evening hat in the form of a calotte (also spelled "calot"). The low, domed crown is made of segments of black satin over a core of woven straw. The surface is embellished with black plastic sequins and beads of various sizes. At top of crown is small squashed spheroid finial covered with a pattern of cylindrical and circular faceted black plastic beads. Inside lower edge of crown is black grosgrain ribbon band. Sewn behind band are three elastic loops to help secure hat to head of wearer. No labels. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30149/
Evening Gown
Evening gown of white silk crepe. Full-length sleeveless dress with round neck and narrow straps and Empire waist. The bodice is heavily beaded with mirror beads and silver rhinestones. The skirt has vertical columns of beads and has heavy beading on hem. Zipper closure along center back. The dress is fully lined in cream fabric. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30180/
Body Suit With Tunic
Ensemble consisting of two pieces. Base garment is a light green knitted silk jersey bodysuit with over-length sleeves and legs. Zipper closure from throat to lower back at center back, with one hook-and-eye closure at top of zipper. Over the bodysuit is a tunic/tabard formed of two long rectangular panels of black silk with white printed polka dots all over. There are thin "straps" simulated at shoulders where panels meet, and a slightly rounded neckline. The panels are sewn at left side for 17 cm. below arm and open the rest of the length. On right side are three snaps and one hook-and-eye closure. The left shoulder is sewn shut, while the right side opens with hook-and-eye closure. The panels are lined in shocking pink silk. Label in bodysuit: At inside left back, just beside zipper: "Rudi Gernreich". Labels in tunic/tabard: At back inside, just below neckline: "Neiman-Marcus / Trophy Room"; At front inside, just below neckline: "Rudi Gernreich" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30029/
Hat
Hat of leopard fur. Similar to a baseball cap, the hat has a pillbox style crown with a crescent-moon shaped visor / brim at front, both completely covered in leopard fur. Around the base of the crown is a black leather hatband. The interior of the crown is lined in a cream brocade cloth, while the visor is lined in leopard. Along the interior base of the crown is a dark brown grosgrain ribbon band. No labels. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30161/
Hat
Hat of black velvet. The hat has a circular, slightly domed, crown completely covered in black velvet. At the front is attached a rhinestone and glass(?) brooch formed as firework spray. The central iridescent faceted stone is surrounded by rays or arms of lines of rhinestones simulating diamonds. Some rays arc over the brooch, some hang down. Most are only partly rigid, so that as the wearer moves the rays shimmer and the stones catch the light. The crown is lined in black fabric, with a black grosgrain ribbon running along the inner lower edge. Attached to the inner ribbon band is a plastic comb to help secure the hat to the wearer's head. No labels. Donor attributed the brooch to Balenciaga. Alternatively attributed to Robert Goossens of Paris, who is known to have supplied Balenciaga. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30164/
Hat
Hat of moss green "plush" velvet. The derby-style hat has domed cylindrical crown with indentations at front and slight crease along crown. Narrow brim, rolled upwards at sides and back. To left of center front is small attached "fan" of various types and colors of feathers. Inside crown is attached small length of black grosgrain ribbon to maintain the front indentations, and a band of black grosgrain ribbon along inside base of crown. Stamped inside crown: Feutre Flechet. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30163/
Evening Dress
Cream silk jersey evening dress / ballgown with beaded decoration and matching belt. A) Full-length gown, bodice embellished with hand-embroidered stylized leaves/buds in cream on a ground of silver, green, and mauve beads. Shoulders and thin collar with solid fields of beading. Short, wide sleeves edged with silver and clear beads. Center back opening with hook-and-eyes at top and bottom, no closure along mid-back. Plain cream silk jersey skirt, gathered into waist. Closure at right hip, with band of hook-and-eyes along back waistline, and series of hidden snaps down from waistline. Bodice lined in silk gauze, skirt lined in heavier cream silk. Inner grosgrain ribbon waistband with hook-and-eye closure. Designer's label at inside waistband: "Givenchy"; under designer's label is hidden design/style # tag with handwritten notation: "54783" B) Belt of cream silk gauze-backed silk jersey, 2" wide x 30" long, completely covered in beading matching bodice. Hook-and-eye closure at ends. No marks/labels on belt. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc87027/
Mini Dress
Mini dress of bright red wool jersey knit. The tubular mini dress has a rounded neckline and short sleeves. Black, shiny vinyl trim at neckline, sleeve hem, lower hem, and in the form of six Pierre Cardin bullseye trademarks arranged in a triangle from natural waist to lower hem. At center back are hook and eye and zipper closure. Dress is unlined. Designer's label: "Pierre Cardin / Paris New York" Care label: "The vinyl trim / on this garment / has been specially treated / to make dry cleaning possible". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc87026/
Dress
Dress of white raw silk and linen blend. The dress is mid-length, with rounded neck and short sleeves. Set in from neckline is a narrow band of red silk with white line print forming a collar with bow at front. The trim is repeated at sleeve hems, and at lower edge of 2 faux pocket flaps at front. The dress is seamed and with short bust darts. Center back zipper closure with hook and loop at neckline. Fully lined in cream fabric. Designer's label at inside left neckline: "Vera Maxwell / Original" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc87006/
Fan
No Description digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc38038/
Pumps
Pair of pumps of purple suede. Shoes have rounded toe, and 2 1/2" high heels which taper to base. Stamped inside: "Renato" Stamped inside is partly illegible make/model information. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc86967/
Hat
Bandeau hatlet of violet ombre straw cloth. Sides formed by 4 folds of same. All edges trimmed in violet colored glass beads. Two brown plastic combs attached to inside grosgrain hatband to secure hat to head. Blue net veil. Designer's label: "Bes-Ben / Made in Chicago" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc38102/
Pumps
Pair of sling-back pumps of blue leather. Shoes have pointed toes, and cut-away sides and back. Secured with thin straps extending from sides of toecap to sides of heels, and with strap across back of heels which secure with small rectangular buckles. Across vamp is applied narrow black patent leather strip which ties in a bow at top of toebox. Stiletto heels covered in blue leather. Designer's label stamped inside: "Herbert Levine" Retailer's label stamped inside: "Neiman Marcus" Handwritten inside: "5B 2.921472 / 42994" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114752/
Turban
Turban in multicolored silk organza. The body of the turban is made of pleated silk organza in stripes of pink, blues, purple, and coral. Lined in a dark beige net, with matching grosgrain ribbon inner hatband. At either side are attached small plastic combs to secure hat to wearer's head. Designer's label: "Irene of New York" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39214/
Pumps
Pair of pumps of silver fabric. Gently pointed toes, and oval openwork area at top of instep, edged in padded gold kid leather with stripe extending from oval to tip of toe. Low chunky hee tapering slightly to base, covered in same fabric. Brand stamped inside: "Erica" Retailer's label stamped inside: "Neiman Marcus" Handwritten inside: "7 1/2 B A12003 / 68633-3A" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc277089/
Shoes
Pair of shoes of green leather. Styled as "sling-backs" with an open, rounded toe. The sides of the instep are connected by a square gold colored metal link. The strap at back heel is closed, with no buckle. The 3 3/4" high heel tapers slightly to base. Maker's mark stamped inside: "Palizzio" Handwritten inside: "5 B 1978 / 113PL83" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc87000/
Shoes
Pair of shoes of navy blue leather. The shoes are designed with square toes and dark leather uppers. A wide rectangular panel of navy blue simulated reptile skin extends from the toe, up the vamp, below an oval cut-out in the vamp, and up the instep to create a tongue. The 2 1/4" high heel is covered with same blue leather, and tapers to base. Maker's label stamped inside: "Esprit" Stamped inside: "Leather upper & Sole / Other Mat'ls Man-Made" Handwritten inside: "5 M 0320109 / A AA 37122 5" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc87002/
Shoes
Pair of shoes of black suede. Designed with a rounded toe, the shoes have a gold colored metal edge band at lower edge of toe, and between upper and heel. The 2 1/2" high chunky heel is covered in the same suede. Stamped inside: "De Fazzio / New York" Handwritten inside: "5 B 8244" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc87003/
Pumps
Pair of pumps of beige leather. The shoes are designed with a square toe and plain uppers with a large bow at vamp formed of a twist of the same leather. Heels covered in same leather, tapering to base. Designer label: "Herbert Levine" Retailer Label: "Amen Wardy / El Paso Texas" Handwritten inside: "7 1/2M / 30030" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc115010/
Shoes
Shoes of red leather with large rectangular accent panel of white textured leather on vamp which curls up from toe and lays over vamp. Stacked chunky heel. Opening piped in black leather. Square toe. Navy blue heel. Designer label: "Herbert Levine" Retailer label: "Amen Wardy / El Paso Texas" Handwritten inside: "7 1/2 M / 30033" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc115011/
Sling-Back Shoes
Pair of sling-back shoes of hand-painted leather. The shoes are designed with a slightly pointed toe, cut away beyond toe-box. The single strap fastens at outer edge with a gold buckle. The heel is a modified Spike heel, covered with matching leather. The leather used is painted with a pale blue background on which is an over-all pattern of scrolling framework in beige and dark green, with rosettes, flowers, quatrefoils, etc. in greens, pinks, blues, etc. Maker's label inside: "Herbert Levine / Fine Shoes" and "Hand Lasted" Retailer's label inside: "Neiman-Marcus" Handwritten inside: "6AAA 9214-4L2 / 32769" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114932/
Pumps
Pair of pumps of mottled light brown/tan reptile skin. The shoes are designed with a rounded toe and squared-off vamp/instep. The edge of the upper has a border of small holes backed with black leather. The thick, chunky heel is covered with a black reptile leather, and flares to the base. Designer's label stamped inside: "Andrew Geller" Retailer's label stamped inside: "Neiman-Marcus" Handwritten inside: "4 1/2 B / 628 380 / 461323G" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc87007/
Pumps
No Description digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc277019/
Shoes
Pair of shoes of multicolored crepe de chine. The shoes are designed with a rounded toe, and the uppers and heels are covered with crepe de chine with a printed pattern of pastel greens, browns, pinks, and blues in irregular shapes with stripes or a marbling look. 3" high stiletto heel. Stamped inside: "Marcinni" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc277114/
Evening Pumps
Pair of evening pumps of gold leather. The shoes are designed with rounded toe, and plain uppers. High, chunky heel is rounded at back and tapers slightly to base. Brand label stamped inside: "Rinaldi"; and "Rinaldi / Wool Composition Heels" Retailer's label stamped inside: "Designer Collections Lord & Taylor" Handwritten inside: "S B 34458 19 / 43-2008" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc277070/
D'Orsay Pumps
Pair of D'Orsay pumps of black faille. Large fabric rosette applied at vamp, set with rhinestones. Heel tapers to base. Retailer's label stamped inside: "Chandler's" and "French Room / Originals" Partly illegible marks inside: ".... 4 1/2 B 2984 / 92774 - 213W" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc87001/
Evening Shoes
Pair of evening shoes of gold metallic lace. Designed with a rounded toe, the shoes have uppers of mesh embroidered with gold wire to create a lace with scrolling forms throughout. Uppers with scalloped upper edge. 2" heel of white leather, tapering to base. Stamped inside: "DeLiso Debs" Stamped inside: "4 1/2B 31521 2 / 90 760-81" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc277059/
Beach Clogs
Pair of beach clogs of wood and fabric. The wooden platform soles are "foot shaped", and secure to feet with a wide strap of striped cloth which passes through the sole at instep and ties at top of instep. Fabric is striped in black, yellow, red, white, and yellow. Printed label affixed to sole: "Gymnastic" Stamped on side: "6" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114849/