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  Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
 Collection: Texas Fashion Collection
Hat
Hat of natural straw. The conical hat has a rounded top, and a "waist" part way down where the curve of the hat changes. The entire hat is overlaid with bands of colored raffia (blue; white; yellow; orange; dark blue; purple; and green) extending from the top of the crown to the brim. From the top of the hat extends a tassel/streamers of the same strands of raffia. Unlined, with white inner hatband, and a white string attached to help secure hat to wearer's head. Label attached to back of crown: "Made in Japan" Written on inner headband in blue marker: "77 [illeg]" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc277037/
Calotte
Hat of very pale green felt and beading. The hat is styled as a calotte (also spelled "calot"), with slightly shaped crown embellished with scattered transparent gray beads, pearl beads, and rhinestones. Unlined. Inner hatband of black grosgrain ribbon. Label sewn to inner hatband: "Henrys / Dallas Henrys has been identified alternately as maker or retailer. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc277053/
Hat
Hatlet of three black velvet rings over black net embellished with rhinestones. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc277079/
Calotte
Hat of sequins and beading. The hat is styled as a calotte (also spelled "calot") with shaped crown covered in iridescent sequins of light blues, with a large flower-head on either side embellished with pale blue and white sequins, gray bead, and pearls. The petals of the flowers extend below edge of crown. Overlaid with pale blue light mesh veil. Lined in lace. Designer's label inside: "A / Frances & Walter Nelkin / Hat", with a red sequin sewn in each upper corner of label. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc277046/
Calotte Hat
Calotte style hat of black cabochons and bugle beads. Black velvet piping at edges. Lined in black netting. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc277099/
Calotte Hat
Calotte style hat of black satin. Bow of black satin as trim. Net at back of hat. Hatpin with head covered in matching satin. Lined. Comb at inside front of hat for securing hat to wearer's head. Retailer's label: "A. Harris & Co. / Dallas" Union/size label to right of retailer's label. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc277085/
Hat
Hat of white feathers. The domed crown fits close to the head, and is totally overlaid with long white feathers radiating down from the crown, creating a "blond wig" effect. At top of crown is an attached thin white string/piping bow. Hat lined in off-white fabric. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc277095/
Calotte Hat
Calotte style hat of black velvet with black net veil in front. Lined in green fabric. Retailer's label: "Saks Fifth Avenue / Debutante" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc277045/
Purse
Handbag of glass beads of boldly colored shades of green, yellow, red, blue, pink and black in a somewhat stylized floral design. Bronze frame cast with floral forms and openwork, and set with navy blue and green cabochons. Roses on frame have remains of applied coloration. Suspension chain in rope form with spaced clusters of green and blue beads. Bag has looped and twisted fringe at bottom composed of green and black faceted beads. Pink satin lining, mostly deteriorated. Ball and socket filigree closure. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc277055/
Headband
Headband hatlet made of black straw bow alternating with black silk bow in layers. Veil with chenille balls in diagonal pattern. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc277048/
Picture Hat
Picture hat of natural straw. The domed crown is encircled at base by a wide band of cream grosgrain ribbon with bow at right side. Around the crown, but not on the bow, the ribbon is edged at top with black. The wide circular brim curves upwards from base of crown, then curves down to edge. Unlined. Inner cream grosgrain ribbon hatband. Label sewn to inner hatband: "Florence ... / Dallas" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc277083/
Headband
Headband of pink velvet ribbon in bow design with streamers down back. Comb for securing headband to wearer's head. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc277078/
Hat
Hat of navy felt. Somewhat like a cloche in style, the had has a low, rounded crown, with narrow turned-up brim at front. At right side are two fans or "conch shaped" decorations of navy grosgrain ribbon. The hat is overlaid at front with a navy veil. Inner navy grosgrain ribbon hatband. Accompanied by a plain black-headed hatpin. Designer's label sewn to inner hatband: "Hazel Eller - Custom Made" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc277093/
Flats
Women's flat shoes with brown leather sole, patent leather cream insole with designer's marks. Cotton blended fabric covers the whole foot up to the cinched ankle where there are two small straps of the same fabric to tie behind heel with a vertical seam down center and a slightly pointed toe. The fabric has a printed pattern of colored squares in aqua, blue, purple and periwinkle, with scattered printed signatures by the designer, "Emilio". Designer's marks on each sole: "Creation / Albion / Florence / Made Expressly / For E. Pucci" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc277026/
Hat
Picture hat of dark pink/red Milan straw with wide brim. Pillbox crown trimmed with red and white polka dot organdy hatband which forms a bow on the right. Straw brim folds under and is lined in same polka dot organdy as hatband. Two hatpins with cloth covered heads in matching polka dot material. Designer's label on inside hatband: "Sally Victor / 18 East 53rd St." digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc277092/
Evening Gown
Gown of black jersey crepe with halter top embellished with gems, pearls, and patent leather pin wheels; halter top is trimmed in silver flat chain; jersey is gathered at center-front neckline and center-back; full-length with hip-length, center-front slit; center-back zip closure. Designer's label: "Carolina Herrera / New York" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc330336/
Coat
Coat of royal blue and dark magenta striped silk with matching belt. A) Coat of royal blue and dark magenta striped silk. Double breasted with 10 1-inch gold with inlaid mother-of-pearl buttons and 5 bound buttonholes. Bermuda collar. 3/4 length sleeves with 3" band cuffs. Two large patch pockets at sides. Lined in navy silk. Four large, covered snaps supplement closure. Coat has been altered by stitching front closed at lower portion of opening to form a "dress". Designer's label at center back neckline: "Norman Norell / New York" B) Covered belt in matching royal blue and dark magenta striped silk. Three inches wide with self covered, rectangular cinch buckle. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc330388/
Skirt Suit
Black, rust and brown herringbone wool suit. a) Coat of black, brown and rust herringbone wool. Single breasted with three circular brown buttons with cut tops. Long, set-in sleeves. Brown fur collar. Yoked shoulders and box pleats at left and right sides and two pleats down the back. Lined in taupe silk satin. Designer's label at center back neckline: "Traina-Norell / New York" b) Skirt of black, brown and rust herringbone wool. Below knee length; A-line. Left side zipper with 2 hook & eyes on waistband. Lined in rust colored silk. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc330375/
Ensemble - Dress and Coat
Ensemble consisting of two pieces: A) Dress of gray striped cashmere with scoop neckline and long sleeves with rolled hem and edges; wide, horizontal stripes of alternating gray and light gray; tunic-length. B) Coat of discs of laminated news clippings sewn on white jersey knit with wide silver fox trim at neckline, opening, and cuffs; lined in champagne satin; mid-length. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc330379/
Evening Dress
Evening dress of ivory silk crepe with over-layer of ivory organza; layered, tiered rectangles of ivory organza down front; strapless bodice silhouette with attached fine cord straps at top of a rectangle of light brown tulle with layered ivory organza rectangles over it; rectangle goes above the bodice top at the center-front; side-zip closure; full-length. Designer's label: "Akris" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc330355/
Coat
Coat of purple wool. Double breasted with 8 large, round, purple plastic buttons and 4 bound buttonholes. Long sleeved with slight flair to hem. Knee length. A-line with two vertical welt pockets. Rounded neckline with 1-1/4" mandarin collar. Lined in light purple silk taffeta. Designer's label: "Norman Norell / New York" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc330372/
Dress
Dress of various color blocks of blues, browns, pinks, and yellow knit with 2 ¾” single shoulder strap and waistband of dark red knit; some of the geometrical blocks blocks are accented with gems, beads, and/or sequins; dress is full-length and slim fitting with 26” slit at center-back; left side-zip closure under left arm. Designer's label: "Missoni / Made in Italy" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc330352/
Skirt Suit
Skirt suit ensemble: A) Blazer jacket of black silk gaberdine. Short waist with notched collar. Double breasted with four 1" mother-of-pearl buttons; closure reinforced with clear plastic button inside jacket. Three-quarter length, set-in sleeves with snap closure at slit. Two false pockets with rectangular flaps. Lined in black silk faille. B) Skirt of white linen. Knee-length skirt with 1 inch waist band. Slightly A-line. In-seam front panel pockets. Left side zipper closure with two large silver colored hook and eyes. Skirt looks to have been let out at hem. Lined in ivory silk. Designer's label on inside left seam of lining: "Norman Norell / New York" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc330343/
Ensemble - Dress and Coat
Ensemble A) Coat of cream and orange wool gabardine. Approximately knee-length cream wool coat, with rounded neckline. Asymmetrical front opening set to left of center with 5 large circular white ceramic or plastic buttons with bound buttonholes. Long sleeves with orange cuffs buttoning with two matching buttons. Three orange flap pockets - two on right, one on left - with bound slit pocket under flap. Collar, opening, cuffs, and pocket flaps of orange wool gabardine. Lined in cream silk crepe. Designer's label inside at back collar: "Norell". Retailer's label at inside right seam: "Esther Wolf / Houston" B) Dress of bright orange wool gaberdine. Knee-length, with rounded neckline. Sleeveless. Bust darts. Wide straps. Left shoulder with 5 hook-and-eyes closure. Left side zipper at bodice, and second zipper and three hook and eyes at skirt. Skirt slightly gathered at natural waistline. Side seam pockets. Lined in orange silk. Designer's label at inside skirt lining seam: "Norman Norell / New York" Union Label near designer's label. Care label inside at left side seam: "DO NOT USE STEAM IRON" Small label at inside front neckline: "FRONT" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc330340/
Dress
Dress of violet paisley silk crepe with black, cream, and teal accents; crepe is gathered at neckline and attached to a brass metal neck adornment with open-front; V-neckline bodice wraps around at front into wide waistband; side-zip closure under left arm; large, loose bracelet-length sleeves are gathered at the wrists into a ½” cuff with a single button closure; knee-length skirt is heavily gathered into waistband and has an attached slip of red crepe. Designer's label: "Etro" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc330511/
Skirt Suit
Suit in navy wool trimmed in flat black cording. A) Jacket of navy blue wool with woven, checked pattern. Double breasted with eight black fabric covered buttons and four bound buttonholes. Notched collar. Collar and center front of jacket trimmed with black flat cording. Long sleeves with turned-back cuffs trimmed with black flat cording and two small black fabric covered buttons each with two bound buttonholes. Two pockets trimmed in matching cording. Lined in blue silk. Combined designer/retailer label at center back neckline: "Neiman-Marcus Dallas / Traina-Norell" B) Skirt of navy blue wool with woven, checked pattern. A-line and knee length with nine panel construction. 1 1/2" waistband with left side zipper and four hook & eye closure. Unlined. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc330502/
Jacket
Jacket of black silk satin. The jacket, formed as a basque bodice with typical close-fitting achieved by seaming, has extended front panels and is edged with ivory lace. The jacket is embellished with dark blue velvet and olive brown chenille appliques of floral and leaf forms and black jet beading. Lined in ivory silk satin. Photograph is from the exhibition Haute Couture - The Great Paris Designers, held at The Grace Museum, Abilene Texas, October 17 - December 30, 2000, and shows jacket as displayed with a period hat (Accession #: 1981.015.001) and skirt (Accession #: 1967.025.099). digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc29991/
Suit
Woman's suit consisting of three pieces, a coat, blouse, and skirt. Coat and skirt are made of navy blue wool. The coat has a center front opening, and long sleeves which end just above wrist. The skirt is slightly below mid-calf length. The blouse is made of rust-colored chiffon with rounded neck, and is decorated with beading and embroidery. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc29994/
Evening Coat
Evening coat of gold metallic brocade in a floral motif with multicolored rectangles. Cocoon-style, with white fox collar, the full-length barrel sleeves with matching fur trimmed cuffs. The coat has a single button closure, and pink silk satin lining. Label: "Hattie Moss, Philadelphia, Pennsylvania" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc29999/
Dress
Dress of rose pink rayon and silk, with ivory silk Peter Pan collar and with cut-out stitched trim. 24 silver ball buttons on left side, and geometric triple-tiered ruffles with drop-waist and self-fabric belt with silver buckle. Long, straight sleeves with ivory satin cuffs with stitched trim; single snap closure. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc29996/
Bonnet.
Bonnet of blue silk. Brim is hand-quilted in square corners and curving lines that follow the shape of the brim in even lines. The brim is composed of 3 pieces of silk fabric, which are pieced together and then quilted. Cotton used as batting material throughout. The crown is entirely quilted in rows of horizontal stitching and radiating circles. The tail has L-shaped quilting, which echoes the front edge of the tail. The chin ties are striped silk ribbons. Some areas of fabric loss and shattering on bonnet and ties. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc29993/
Afternoon Dress
Afternoon dress of dark green silk satin, crepe and chiffon. The tunic-style dress of dark green silk satin is street-length, with a drop waist. It has a slight standing collar at back which extends out in front to become long ties with a backing of dark maroon. Below the bow formed by the ties is V-shaped neckline. The full-length sleeves are dark green silk satin from shoulders to elbows and are translucent green crepe from elbows to cuffs. The main part of the gauze sections are embroidered with floral motifs in red, pink, and green/gold. The sleeves have two snaps at each cuff, which are trimmed with bands of pink crepe, maroon crepe, and dark green satin. On the front of the skirt are three wide, slightly overlapping tiers of fabric, split at center front, which start below the hips and end slightly above the hem. The dress is unlined, and there are no tags or labels. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc29995/
Pumps
Pumps of beige snakeskin. The shoes with square toe, and square 2 1/4" high chunky heel. Designer label: "Adolfo / Couture / Made in Italy" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc87085/
Pillbox Hat
Pillbox hat of tan fur. Low circular crown covered in light tan fur, likely mink. Lined in pink fabric with band of blue fabric inside lower edge, overlaid with gold rickrack band. On each side along inside lower edge is a small brown plastic comb secured by black elastic cord to secure hat to wearer's head. Designer's label inside at back: "Sue Dooley / Dallas" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc87082/
Hat
Hat of black fur and felt. The body of the hat is of black felt, overlaid at sides with black fur. The crown is styled somewhat as a toque, with vertical sides, and a sunken top. At back, the sides "tie", forming a bow of felt edged with fur. Hat is unlined, with inner black grosgrain ribbon hatband, and with a braided elastic cord to secure hat to wearer's head. Designer's label: "Merilyn / Hats" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc87087/
Pumps
Pumps of green, yellow, and red suede color blocks crossed with narrow bands of blue suede. Shoes have a pointed toe, and 2 7/8" high heel covered in red leather. Designer label: "Escada / Made in Italy" Stamped on inside of shoe: "7 732 B 8" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc87080/
Pillbox Hat
No Description digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc87088/
Pumps
Pair of pumps of brown and beige printed snakeskin. The shoes have 2" high brown, square chunky heel and oval toe. Designer label: "Stuart Weitzman / New York" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc87084/
Oxfords
Lace-up oxford style shoes of brown and beige leather, with a 1" flat heel and oval toe. Brown shoe laces. Designer label: "too / JOAN / & / DAVID / handmade in italy" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc87086/
Pillbox Hat
Pillbox hat of draped chiffon burnout velvet. Cylindrical large pillbox hat with shaped lower rim. The crown is draped/pleated horizontally in a chiffon burnout velvet with printed abstract designs burnt orange, yellow, and blue. Lined in a brocaded blue and sparkly fabric. At lower inside edge is band of gold rickrack. Designer's label inside rim at back: "Sue Dooley / Dallas" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc87083/
Moccasin Pumps
Pair of "Moccasin Pumps" of cream leather. The shoes are designed with a squared toe, and have the look of moccasins and pumps. Instep with extending tongue of same leather, with wide band of same crossing instep and securing on outside with a "V" shape of gold-colored metal. Low, square block heel. Maker's label stamped inside: "Veneziano Inc / Made in Italy" Stamped inside: "35 8899" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc87015/
Shoes
Pair of shoes of brown leather and suede. In a modified "spectator" style, the shoes have a brown leather toe-box, heel, panel over instep, and strap across instep which fastened with a buckle. The remainder of the shoe is of brown suede. The leather panels are eded with bands of tiny holes, and have shaped edges. The chunky heel tapers to base. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc87011/
Gloves
Pair of gloves of white cotton. The daytime gloves are wrist length, with 3 tucks at top along back of hand, and a 1/2" fold-over band at wrist hem. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc87017/
Shoes
Pair of black patent leather "pilgrim style shoes". Designed with a pointed toe that is squared off at tip, the shoes have a black patent leather upper, the instep panel extending up to form a large tongue. Set across instep is a large silver "C" shape simulating a buckle. The chunky heel tapers to base. Inside stamp illegible. Handwritten inside: "6 AA 745" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc87013/
Platform Pumps
Platform pumps of tan Napa leather. The shoes are created so that seven spaced bands of leather rise from the 1" platform and wrap around a single main strap that runs from throat and around heel. The spacing of the bands create an open toe and open sections along the sides of the feet. The 4" modified continental stacked heel is rounded at back and sides and straight across front, and tapers sharply to base. Designer's label inset in sole: "dusica / kotur / sacks hand made in it italy" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc87115/
Sandals
Pair of woman's sandals of pink and silver metallic leather, white leather, and black patent leather. Insole/sole of silver leather with pink leather inner section. Across instep is narrow band of pink, white, and black leather segments set with a single square black faceted gem mounted in silver colored metal. A second matching strap extends from insole, curves across instep, threads through a similar band, then continues around back of heel and back down to reattach to insole on same side it began. This band also set with two square faceted black gems. 3" high spike heel is thick, covered with black patent leather on sides and back and brown leather as sole on front. Designer/Maker's label stamped on insole at heel: "RODO / Since / 1956" within wreath. Impressed in sole: "RODO / [outline of hide] Vero / Cuoio / Made in Italy / 36" With applied sticker on sole showing pictograms indicating what materials make up the parts of the shoe. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc87112/
Pumps
Pair of woman's pumps of iridescent gold leather. Designed with rounded, open toes, inner sides cut-away. The leather has lightly scored parallel lines over the surface, creating a striped effect. Elongated wedge-style heel 4" high. Designer's label stamped in silver on insole: "Fanziska Hübener" Stamped into sole: "Hübener, Fanziska"; a circle with inscription "Vero Cuoio / Hand Made Brazil"; sizes: "BR / 38"; "EUR / 40" and "USA / 9" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc87111/
Pumps
Pair of velour, canvas, and leather pumps. Designed with pointed toes, the pumps have uppers of bright green, red, and navy velour, and black canvas in lengthwise stripes. Along bottom edge of upper is a pebbled leather band which is textured to resemble alligator and which is accented with brown stitching. Stiletto heel 3" in height covered with same textured leather. Suspended from top edge of heel is a gold charmed shaped as an "R". Maker's mark stamped in gold inside shoe: "[R logo] Roberta di Camerina" Stamped on sole: "Vero / Cuoio" and "37". Applied sticker on sole with pictograms indicating which parts are leather. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc87117/
Shoes
Platform heels of lilac, red, and purple leather, and burgundy patent leather. 2 joining straps at front of red and lilac; angular zigzag cut-out around ankle with Mary Jane straps from sides of lilac leather (silver buckle on outside) and a single joining piece of burgundy patent leather across top; 1" platform of purple leather and 4" elongated heel of burgundy patent leather. Designer label: "Franziska Hübener" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc87110/
Gloves
Pair of gloves of ivory colored leather. On back of each glove is a stitched swirl design of 5 ribs. The gloves widen to end with piped hems, and extend to about mid-forearm. Appears to be a youth size. Stamped inside gloves: A) "ARIS" logo in hemisphere; "U.S. Pat. / Aug. 22'22"; and with various stamped numbers inside the glove for sewing and matching pieces. B) "5 3/4"; "U.S. Pat. / Sept 19'22 / Made in Germany"; and with various stamped numbers inside the glove for sewing and matching pieces. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc87118/