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  Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
 Decade: 1900-1909
 Collection: Texas Fashion Collection
Hat

Hat

Date: 1905
Creator: unknown
Description: Little girl's Easter bonnet. Wired base with mushroom type top of black velvet and double ruffled brim of white lace. Small pink roses and green stems encircle hat above lace brim.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Bonnet

Bonnet

Date: [1900..1909]
Creator: unknown
Description: Child's poke-type bonnet of white silk. Completely shirred and trimmed with white satin ribbon, outlined with lace. High crown to which circular shirred flange has been added. Label inside crown mostly illegible; last word is "Chicago".
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Boots

Boots

Date: 1900
Creator: unknown
Description: Pair of lady's boots or "High Button Shoes" of black and tan leather. The lower section of the shoes, designed with pointed toes, are of black leather. The upper sections, of tan leather, close along center front with laces, 17 holes high. Medium/high heels styled as a modified boulevard or Louis heel, with rounded sides and back, flaring to base, and with curved front section. Sole of black and tan leather. Stamped on sole: "TEDCO / Trade Mark" Stamped on lining: "435 72307 4" and "Tedco"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Beaded Bag

Beaded Bag

Date: 1900/1920
Creator: unknown
Description: Handbag. Rectangular bronze frame chased with scrolling floral forms. Ball/snap closure and bronze chain. Body of purse of off-white woven cloth covered in beaded design of red, pink, green, black, and white in an American Indian or possibly Caucasian motifs. Originally lined in pink silk. Frame is marked "Germany".
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Boots

Boots

Date: 1900
Creator: unknown
Description: Pair of lady's boots or "High Button Shoes" of tan leather. The shoes, designed with pointed toes, are of tan leather which close along center front with laces, 19 holes high. Medium/high heels styled as a modified boulevard or Louis heel, with rounded sides and back, flaring to base, and with curved front section. Heels covered with matching leather. Sole of tan leather. Stamped on lining: "H.Seligmann / Seguin, Tex." and "356 10146" Stamped on sole is a wreath containing an image of a shoe and label "Duchess".
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Shoes

Shoes

Date: 1900/1909
Creator: Wichert Shoe (New York, New York)
Description: Pair of lady's shoes of black kid leather and broadcloth. The "high button shoes" have black leather toe boxes with pointed toes and black leather sections at heels which extend from heel up the back of the shoe. The uppers are of black wool broadcloth. Shoes secure at outside edges with 12 circular, slightly domed black buttons. Upper edges lined with black leather, the rest lined with white cloth. The medium-height heel is rounded at sides and back, and squared-off at front. Although not technically a "stacked" heel, the layers can be seen. Maker's label sewn into lining at top: "Wichert / Shoe / Trade Mark / New York U.S.A." Retailer's gilt stamp on inside edge: "Norton's / Gainesville, Tex." Handwritten notation inside boot, just below upper edge: "36-1 36752 / 330".
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Riding Boots

Riding Boots

Date: 1900/1920
Creator: unknown
Description: Pair of lady's riding boots of black/dark brown leather. The "high button shoes" are designed with pointed toes gently rounded at tips, the boots lace up along the back with 12 holes/hooks. Lined in white fabric. High heels are rounded at sides and back, flaring slightly to base, and curved at front. Black leather soles. Hand-written note: "3-13 / 38405 / 413" Retailer's label stamped in gilt, mostly illegible: "Portland Ore" Brand stamped in gilt: "STEPINSHU / Trade Mark / Pat. Applied" Stamped in sole: "WICHERT"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Dress

Dress

Date: 1902
Creator: Harbison, Samuel
Description: Day dress of black silk taffeta. The dress, in the style of the Aesthetic or Reform Movement, is full-length, with a slender silhouette. The front and back of the bodice is styled of tiny vertical knife-pleats, which gather into the rounded neckline. The side panels of the bodice are plain, and there is a line of 14 snaps along the left side forming the closure. The long sleeves are smooth, with slight pleating at the padded shoulders, and they taper to the pointed wrists. The sleeves have 5 hidden snaps and a line of 12 domed non-functioning black taffeta covered buttons on each sleeve. Bodice and skirt are divided by a thin black band. Skirt is fully pleated with tiny vertical knife-pleats. Bodice is lined with thin black crepe. Label sewn inside at back below neckline: "Harbison / Vandervoort's St Louis" Not shown is the accompanying cummerbund of black taffeta, the waistband of large horizontal pleats with a large fan/bow at back with wide, trailing ribbons. (43" from waist to lowest point of ribbons)
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Shoes

Shoes

Date: [1907..1930]
Creator: unknown
Description: Pair of shoes of off-white leather. Designed with pointed toes, the shoes have uppers cut to create a large tongue with upper edged cut to a point. Applied to vamp is medium sized bow of same leather. Modified Louis heel covered with same leather. Retailer's label stamped inside: "Neiman Marcus"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Capelet

Capelet

Date: 1900
Creator: unknown
Description: Capelet of dark brown to black plush, possibly silk and cotton, resembling seal fur. Rounded roll collar trimmed in brown soutache braid stitched with a line of purple thread and black glass or jet beads. Center front opening with hook & eye at neck. Trimmed in light brown with purple soutache braid and hexagonal prism, black glass beads. Collar and center front opening bound by black braid (appears to have been added after the original garment was made). Fully lined in a printed polished cotton (not original) of black with looping rope design and repeated fan shapes of pale blue, red, and cream.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Child's Dress

Child's Dress

Date: 1900/1910
Creator: unknown
Description: Child's "apron" dress of woven red and blue striped flannel with collar and one box pleat in front. Center front opening with snap at neckline. No belt - possibly missing.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Boots

Boots

Date: 1907/1910
Creator: unknown
Description: Pair of lady's boots or "High Button Shoes" of white kidskin leather. The shoes, designed with pointed toes close along center front with laces, 17 holes high. Embellished at top with band of small holes along edge of boot. Medium/high heels styled as a modified boulevard or Louis heel, with rounded sides and back, flaring to base, and with curved front section. Heels covered with matching leather. Sole of tan leather. Stamped on lining: "Neiman-Marcus / Dallas" and "28D 23949"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Shoes

Shoes

Date: 1907
Creator: unknown
Description: Pair of white kid ladies' shoes. Styled with pointed-toes, the white kid leather upper has a vamp decorated with tiny gunmetal beads edging oval cut-outs, and with massed beading at center of each vamp. Medium/high heels styled as a modified boulevard or Louis heel, with rounded sides and back, flaring to base, and with curved front section. Back and sides of heel covered in matching leather. Lined in white leather. Natural brown leather sole. Retailer's stamp inside: "Neiman-Marcus Co. / Dallas Maker's code stamped inside: "150 / B19003"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Shoes

Shoes

Date: 1906/1913
Creator: unknown
Description: Pair of ladies' off-white or cream heavy satin wedding shoes. Designed with rounded toes, the slip-in shoes had an embellishment across vamp of an applied white satin bow or pouch. One survives in part. Lined in white fabric. Sole of natural brown leather, heel covered in white satin. Medium-height heel with rounded sides and back, curving inwards and then straight down to base, similar to a modern continental heel. Stamped inside shoe in gilt: "Boston Shoe Store / New Orleans, LA" Stamped inside shoe in green: "350 19664" Worn by Elsie Gauthreaux at her wedding to Robert Iler, 1913.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Shoes

Shoes

Date: 1900
Creator: unknown
Description: Pair of lady's shoes of black leather. The shoes, designed as oxford style shoes with pointed toes, are of black leather which close along center front with laces, 6 holes high. High heels styled as a modified boulevard or Louis heel, with rounded sides and back, flaring to base, and with curved front section. Heels covered with matching leather. Sole of black leather. There are no marks or labels on the shoes.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Mourning Fan

Mourning Fan

Date: 1900/1925
Creator: unknown
Description: Folding mourning fan. Guards and sticks of plain black wood, shaped but not adorned. The leaf is of plain black cloth. No visible labels, marks or signatures.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Boots

Boots

Date: 1900/1918
Creator: Hamilton-Brown Shoe Co.
Description: Pair of boots or "High Button Shoes" of brown leather. The shoes, designed with pointed toes rounded at the tips, lace closed along center front with laces 16 holes high. The medium height, stacked heels are rounded at sides and back, and are curved at front, tapering slightly to ground. The sole is of tan leather. The shoes are lined in off-white cloth. The base of the heel is of brown rubber(?) with molded marks. Maker's mark in sole: "Hamilton-Brown / Makers / [illeg] Molded into heel: "Cushion Comfort Heel 2" Stamped in lining: "450 24512H"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Wedding Ensemble

Wedding Ensemble

Date: 1908
Creator: unknown
Description: Wedding gown of fine white batiste with various kinds of lace. The full-length gown has a slender silhouette which flares out from the Empire waist downward to the hem. The high neckline has a standing lace collar at throat, an embroidered net section covering lower throat and upper chest, an attached small lace fichu or bertha below that, and attached lace simulated shawl collar "lapels" running from the waist at back, up and over the shoulders, to the waist at front. The short sleeves are of bands and tiers of lace, with a satin band and tightly pleated/ruched rosette on each sleeve near cuff. At waist is a wide satin band with larger pleated/ruched satin rosette in front and back. The main body of the skirt has a vertical inset lace panel at front and back which runs from waist to about knee-height. The lower part of the skirt is made of inset horizontal bands of various types of lace Dress has a center back opening with a series of 28 hook-and-eyes, four hook-and-eyes for satin band at waist, and 3 hook-and-eyes for inner waistband. Not shown are accompanying half slip edged with lace and elbow-length kidskin leather gloves size ...
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Boots

Boots

Date: 1908/1910
Creator: unknown
Description: Pair of boots or "High Button Shoes" of gray/very pale blue leather. The shoes, designed with pointed toes rounded at the tips, lace closed along center front with laces 16 holes high. The high heels are rounded at sides and back, tapering to center and flaring back out at base, and are curved at front. The sole is of tan leather. Shoes are lined in matching leather and off-white cloth. Retailer's stamp on lining: "Byrn's Boot Sh [partly illeg] / Kansas City"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Pumps

Pumps

Date: 1905
Creator: unknown
Description: None
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Happi

Happi

Date: 1900/1960
Creator: unknown
Description: Happi (Japanese traditional short coat) of indigo dyed heavy cotton or linen. Hip-length or slightly longer, with short sleeves. Center front opening with vertical bands on either side with starch paste resist design of Japanese characters. Back with large starch paste resist symbol at upper back, and linear maze-like design across main part of back, repeated at sides.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Day Coat

Day Coat

Date: 1900/1905
Creator: unknown
Description: Daytime coat of black wool for mourning wear. The princess-line shell of the coat falls to mid-calf with a scalloped hem, and has a high standing band collar lined with a gathered black silk ruffle. The ruffle is edged with two narrow bands of ruching and is embellished with cut-work backed in black silk, the cut-work edged with black grosgrain ribbon decorated with black beads and jet. From the center front of the collar, trailing black silk ribbon accents fall to knee-length, and four knee-length ribbons are finished with beaded tassels. The coat has full-length, shaped, slightly flared sleeves that gather into the armseye and are embellished with cut-work motifs and beading as the collar. The cuff edges are faced with box pleated bands of black silk ribbon. Center-front opening of coat with black wool placket facing from neck to waistline, and is secured with seven hook & eyes. Two more hook & eyes catch the front opening at mid-thigh and knee-level. The coat front and back are embellished with black silk backed cut-work and beading as the collar and sleeves. Fully lined in black silk. Black waist tie secured to lining.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Boots

Boots

Date: 1900/1999
Creator: Anne Klein (House of) (New York, New York)
Description: Pair of black suede boots. Ankle-height boots of black suede, with pointed toes and decorative stitch accent at opening. Black suede tassel on heel from opening. 2 1/4" high "stacked" spike heel of black leather(?). Upper is lined in black leather, inner sole lined with red leather. Sole of dark brown leather. Stamped in each shoe: "Anne Klein / New York". Stamped on sole: "Anne / Klein / Made in Italy / 7 1/2 / M"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Dress

Dress

Date: 1909/1912
Creator: unknown
Description: Dress of midnight blue velvet with cream silk(?) bodice overlaid with pleated sheer black fabric. Rounded neckline edged with black lace, with wired standing collar at back of neck. Long pointed sleeves of matching velvet with wide collars of black net/corded lace overlaying cream silk sleeves trimmed with cream lace. Long, full skirt gathers onto waist under a 3" wide, attached velvet belt trimmed with net covered in black sequins and jet beads with round buckle. Hem with wide black net/corded lace band over sheer black silk(?), with narrow triple-layer black silk gauze ruffle at bottom. With accompanying bolero style vest of black net with applique cording/corded lace. Fastens across front with narrow ribbon of midnight blue velvet with central "pendant" butterfly of black sequins and jet bead as head of butterfly.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design