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  Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
 Country: United States
 Collection: Texas Fashion Collection
Toque Hat
Toque hat made of brown and beige fur felt with bands of fabric sewn and blocked. Lower band and top of crown in brown with upper band in beige. One safety style pin with two circles of rhinestones and large rhinestone in center as trim. Designer's label sewn inside crown: "Mr. John Jr." digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc277007/
Hat
Hatlet made of black silk taffeta with 5 silk leaves off front of crown and bow of self in back as trim. Black net veil interspersed with chenille balls. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc277069/
Pumps
Pair of heeled pumps of 2-tone beige leather. Designed with slightly pointed toes squared at ends, the main body of the upper is of light beige polished leather, with thin band of holes punched along upper edge. Toebox of darker beige leather with punched hole band and "pinked" edge at join, and a design of punched holes across top. Heel area of same darker beige leather, with same band of holes and "pinking" edge at join. Heel tapers to base. Designer's label inside: "Selby" Stamped inside: "Leather upper man made / trims, other parts / man made materials / [D in a circle] 9 D/B 42673C 23" Stamped on sole: "Made in U.S.A." Measurements: L: 25 cm. W: 8 cm. H: 12 cm. Heel: 6 cm, 2.5 inches digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc277044/
Toque Hat
a) Toque of red/orange and yellow print wool. Two hatpins with spherical heads covered in material matching toque and head scarf. Lined in white with "Mr John" pattern in gold. Designer' label on inside hatband with rhinestone studded, tabbed ends: "Mr. John" b) Scarf of matching material with large square of lattice work crochet netting of red/orange in middle of scarf to provide veiled effect. Designer's label: "Mr. John" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc277084/
Calotte
Hat of very pale green felt and beading. The hat is styled as a calotte (also spelled "calot"), with slightly shaped crown embellished with scattered transparent gray beads, pearl beads, and rhinestones. Unlined. Inner hatband of black grosgrain ribbon. Label sewn to inner hatband: "Henrys / Dallas Henrys has been identified alternately as maker or retailer. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc277053/
Pumps
Pair of woman's shoes of pearlized plastic fabric. Designed with a squared toe, the shoes are lined in silver leather, and have square heels covered in same silver leather. Designer's label in left shoe: "Herbert Levine" Retailer's label in right shoe: "Amen Wardy / El Paso Texas" Handwritten note inside shoe: "7 1/2 M / 26753" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc277067/
Capulet Hat
Capulet style hat of red silk faille with 3 folds of self on either side. Red, slightly stiffened nose veil. Designers label: "MR. JOHN" Measurements: (Veil not included in measurements) L: 13 cm W: 49 cm H: 11 cm digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc277080/
Calotte
Hat of sequins and beading. The hat is styled as a calotte (also spelled "calot") with shaped crown covered in iridescent sequins of light blues, with a large flower-head on either side embellished with pale blue and white sequins, gray bead, and pearls. The petals of the flowers extend below edge of crown. Overlaid with pale blue light mesh veil. Lined in lace. Designer's label inside: "A / Frances & Walter Nelkin / Hat", with a red sequin sewn in each upper corner of label. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc277046/
Evening Shoes
Pair of evening shoes of purple satin. Designed with pointed toes, the shoes have three paired rhinestone-set stripes running across the toes: the first with a stripe of black and yellow, the second with a stripe of black and red, the third with a stripe of black and green. High spike heel covered in matching purple satin. Maker's mark stamped inside: "Herbert Levine" Retailer's label stamped inside: "Neiman-Marcus" Handwritten inside: "4B 7889 H9913-4LR" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc277061/
Calotte Hat
Calotte style hat of black satin. Bow of black satin as trim. Net at back of hat. Hatpin with head covered in matching satin. Lined. Comb at inside front of hat for securing hat to wearer's head. Retailer's label: "A. Harris & Co. / Dallas" Union/size label to right of retailer's label. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc277085/
Sandals
Pair of sandals of tan leather resembling reptile. Designed with pointed toe, the shoes have solid toebox and three straps crossing the instep. Another strap extends from toebox up vamp, across straps, to ankle strap. Ankle strap connects to sides of heel at sole, and fastens along outer side with small gold buckle. Heel above sole is open, creating a "sling-back" effect. Low heel of a modified Louis style. Designer's label stamped inside: "Designed by / Evins" Retailer's label inside: "Neiman Marcus" Handwritten on strap, partly illegible: "9 W ..... / +41 .... 65-14..." digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc277056/
Calotte Hat
Calotte style hat of black velvet with black net veil in front. Lined in green fabric. Retailer's label: "Saks Fifth Avenue / Debutante" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc277045/
Bonnet
Child's poke-type bonnet of white silk. Completely shirred and trimmed with white satin ribbon, outlined with lace. High crown to which circular shirred flange has been added. Label inside crown mostly illegible; last word is "Chicago". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc277051/
Hat
Hat of brown leather with 2 visors, front and back, as brim. Looks like a jockey riding cap with back and front brims. Brown grosgrain ribbon ties and bow across top of crown. Lined in tan colored silk. Designer's label on inside crown: "Sally Victor / New York" Retailer's label on inside headband: "Amen Wardy / El Paso - Texas" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc277001/
Evening Pumps
Pair of reddish-pink or coral silk satin evening pumps. Square toe shoes which have a large open area on the vamp which is backed by clear plastic and edged by braid. The plastic is overlaid with a metal net or chain mail with rhinestones at the intersections. 2 1/4" square heel covered with same material. Lined in off-white/gray leather. Stamped inside each shoe: "Made in Italy / Espressly / For / Lou Lattimore" (Espressly rather than Expressly); and "Creation Mancini / Paris / Waltea made in Italy" Stamped on sole of each shoe: "8" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc277042/
Picture Hat
Picture hat of natural straw. The domed crown is encircled at base by a wide band of cream grosgrain ribbon with bow at right side. Around the crown, but not on the bow, the ribbon is edged at top with black. The wide circular brim curves upwards from base of crown, then curves down to edge. Unlined. Inner cream grosgrain ribbon hatband. Label sewn to inner hatband: "Florence ... / Dallas" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc277083/
Hat
Hat of navy felt. Somewhat like a cloche in style, the had has a low, rounded crown, with narrow turned-up brim at front. At right side are two fans or "conch shaped" decorations of navy grosgrain ribbon. The hat is overlaid at front with a navy veil. Inner navy grosgrain ribbon hatband. Accompanied by a plain black-headed hatpin. Designer's label sewn to inner hatband: "Hazel Eller - Custom Made" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc277093/
Hat
Picture hat of dark pink/red Milan straw with wide brim. Pillbox crown trimmed with red and white polka dot organdy hatband which forms a bow on the right. Straw brim folds under and is lined in same polka dot organdy as hatband. Two hatpins with cloth covered heads in matching polka dot material. Designer's label on inside hatband: "Sally Victor / 18 East 53rd St." digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc277092/
D'Orsay Pumps
Pair of D'Orsay pumps in black ribbed silk. Styled with the sides cut-away, the shoes are designed with pointed toes, having toebox and heel of ribbed black silk similar in texture to grosgrain ribbon or corduroy. Across instep is flat bow of black silk grosgrain ribbon with rhinestone-set buckle along outer side. The stiletto heels are set under, and taper to base. Maker's label inside: "Herbert Levine" Retailer's label inside: "Neiman-Marcus" Handwritten inside: "5 1/4 A 1613-7LJ / 56672 digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc277014/
Evening Gown
Gown of black jersey crepe with halter top embellished with gems, pearls, and patent leather pin wheels; halter top is trimmed in silver flat chain; jersey is gathered at center-front neckline and center-back; full-length with hip-length, center-front slit; center-back zip closure. Designer's label: "Carolina Herrera / New York" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc330336/
Coat
Coat of royal blue and dark magenta striped silk with matching belt. A) Coat of royal blue and dark magenta striped silk. Double breasted with 10 1-inch gold with inlaid mother-of-pearl buttons and 5 bound buttonholes. Bermuda collar. 3/4 length sleeves with 3" band cuffs. Two large patch pockets at sides. Lined in navy silk. Four large, covered snaps supplement closure. Coat has been altered by stitching front closed at lower portion of opening to form a "dress". Designer's label at center back neckline: "Norman Norell / New York" B) Covered belt in matching royal blue and dark magenta striped silk. Three inches wide with self covered, rectangular cinch buckle. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc330388/
Ensemble - Dress and Coat
Ensemble consisting of two pieces: A) Dress of gray striped cashmere with scoop neckline and long sleeves with rolled hem and edges; wide, horizontal stripes of alternating gray and light gray; tunic-length. B) Coat of discs of laminated news clippings sewn on white jersey knit with wide silver fox trim at neckline, opening, and cuffs; lined in champagne satin; mid-length. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc330379/
Ensemble - Coat, Skirt, and Blouse
Ensemble consisting of: A) Dress coat of camel color wool gabardine. Single breasted with four circular, ivory, plastic buttons with bound buttonholes. Street length. Notched collar. Large pleat down center back. Long set-in sleeves with band cuffs having a single matching button with bound buttonhole. Four patch pockets with flaps - two smaller pockets at breast and two larger pockets at hips. Each pocket is trimmed with a functioning, smaller matching button with bound buttonhole. Lined in tan silk. Designer's label at center back neckline: "Norell" Retailer's label below designer's label: "Sakowitz / Houston" Union label at left armhole. B) Belt of cream colored leather. 3/4" wide with rectangular buckle covered in same. Reverse stamped: "14 611" C) Shell blouse of ivory silk knit. Sleeveless with jewel neckline. Center back zipper with hook & eye. Lined in cream silk satin D) Skirt of camel color wool gabardine. Slightly A-line; knee length. Left side zipper closure with two large hook & eyes on waistband. Lined in tan silk. Designer's label on inside left seam of lining: " Norman Norell / New York" Handwritten style number label: "24787-611-14" Union label below designer's label. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc330395/
Evening Dress
Evening dress of ivory silk crepe with over-layer of ivory organza; layered, tiered rectangles of ivory organza down front; strapless bodice silhouette with attached fine cord straps at top of a rectangle of light brown tulle with layered ivory organza rectangles over it; rectangle goes above the bodice top at the center-front; side-zip closure; full-length. Designer's label: "Akris" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc330355/
Coat
Coat of purple wool. Double breasted with 8 large, round, purple plastic buttons and 4 bound buttonholes. Long sleeved with slight flair to hem. Knee length. A-line with two vertical welt pockets. Rounded neckline with 1-1/4" mandarin collar. Lined in light purple silk taffeta. Designer's label: "Norman Norell / New York" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc330372/
Dress
Dress of various color blocks of blues, browns, pinks, and yellow knit with 2 ¾” single shoulder strap and waistband of dark red knit; some of the geometrical blocks blocks are accented with gems, beads, and/or sequins; dress is full-length and slim fitting with 26” slit at center-back; left side-zip closure under left arm. Designer's label: "Missoni / Made in Italy" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc330352/
Skirt Suit
Skirt suit ensemble: A) Blazer jacket of black silk gaberdine. Short waist with notched collar. Double breasted with four 1" mother-of-pearl buttons; closure reinforced with clear plastic button inside jacket. Three-quarter length, set-in sleeves with snap closure at slit. Two false pockets with rectangular flaps. Lined in black silk faille. B) Skirt of white linen. Knee-length skirt with 1 inch waist band. Slightly A-line. In-seam front panel pockets. Left side zipper closure with two large silver colored hook and eyes. Skirt looks to have been let out at hem. Lined in ivory silk. Designer's label on inside left seam of lining: "Norman Norell / New York" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc330343/
Ensemble - Dress and Coat
Ensemble A) Coat of cream and orange wool gabardine. Approximately knee-length cream wool coat, with rounded neckline. Asymmetrical front opening set to left of center with 5 large circular white ceramic or plastic buttons with bound buttonholes. Long sleeves with orange cuffs buttoning with two matching buttons. Three orange flap pockets - two on right, one on left - with bound slit pocket under flap. Collar, opening, cuffs, and pocket flaps of orange wool gabardine. Lined in cream silk crepe. Designer's label inside at back collar: "Norell". Retailer's label at inside right seam: "Esther Wolf / Houston" B) Dress of bright orange wool gaberdine. Knee-length, with rounded neckline. Sleeveless. Bust darts. Wide straps. Left shoulder with 5 hook-and-eyes closure. Left side zipper at bodice, and second zipper and three hook and eyes at skirt. Skirt slightly gathered at natural waistline. Side seam pockets. Lined in orange silk. Designer's label at inside skirt lining seam: "Norman Norell / New York" Union Label near designer's label. Care label inside at left side seam: "DO NOT USE STEAM IRON" Small label at inside front neckline: "FRONT" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc330340/
Dress
Dress of violet paisley silk crepe with black, cream, and teal accents; crepe is gathered at neckline and attached to a brass metal neck adornment with open-front; V-neckline bodice wraps around at front into wide waistband; side-zip closure under left arm; large, loose bracelet-length sleeves are gathered at the wrists into a ½” cuff with a single button closure; knee-length skirt is heavily gathered into waistband and has an attached slip of red crepe. Designer's label: "Etro" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc330511/
Skirt Suit
Suit in navy wool trimmed in flat black cording. A) Jacket of navy blue wool with woven, checked pattern. Double breasted with eight black fabric covered buttons and four bound buttonholes. Notched collar. Collar and center front of jacket trimmed with black flat cording. Long sleeves with turned-back cuffs trimmed with black flat cording and two small black fabric covered buttons each with two bound buttonholes. Two pockets trimmed in matching cording. Lined in blue silk. Combined designer/retailer label at center back neckline: "Neiman-Marcus Dallas / Traina-Norell" B) Skirt of navy blue wool with woven, checked pattern. A-line and knee length with nine panel construction. 1 1/2" waistband with left side zipper and four hook & eye closure. Unlined. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc330502/
Evening Coat
Evening coat of gold metallic brocade in a floral motif with multicolored rectangles. Cocoon-style, with white fox collar, the full-length barrel sleeves with matching fur trimmed cuffs. The coat has a single button closure, and pink silk satin lining. Label: "Hattie Moss, Philadelphia, Pennsylvania" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc29999/
Bonnet.
Bonnet of blue silk. Brim is hand-quilted in square corners and curving lines that follow the shape of the brim in even lines. The brim is composed of 3 pieces of silk fabric, which are pieced together and then quilted. Cotton used as batting material throughout. The crown is entirely quilted in rows of horizontal stitching and radiating circles. The tail has L-shaped quilting, which echoes the front edge of the tail. The chin ties are striped silk ribbons. Some areas of fabric loss and shattering on bonnet and ties. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc29993/
Dress
Dress. Bodice of vertically striped blue and black satin with short sleeves in black. Shallow v-neck trimmed with band of gold net ribbon which continues down center of back to waist. Bodice has black band just below bust line as "hem". Below this hem is pleated sash of blue and black striped materials at raised waistline, and a second band of the striped material running vertically from below "hem" to under top tier of skirt. Mid-calf-length black skirt with two vertical tiers of long box pleats from waistline. Bodice is lined in cream silk(?) with wide ribbon inner waistband, with cream-trimmed pads added at underarms. Skirt is lined in black. Garment fastens down back from neck to mid-thigh with a series of hook-and-eye and hook-and-loop closures. Sash around waist fastens at center front and has hook-and-loop closures running around left side to back. Garment has no labels. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc29990/
Afternoon Dress
Afternoon dress of dark green silk satin, crepe and chiffon. The tunic-style dress of dark green silk satin is street-length, with a drop waist. It has a slight standing collar at back which extends out in front to become long ties with a backing of dark maroon. Below the bow formed by the ties is V-shaped neckline. The full-length sleeves are dark green silk satin from shoulders to elbows and are translucent green crepe from elbows to cuffs. The main part of the gauze sections are embroidered with floral motifs in red, pink, and green/gold. The sleeves have two snaps at each cuff, which are trimmed with bands of pink crepe, maroon crepe, and dark green satin. On the front of the skirt are three wide, slightly overlapping tiers of fabric, split at center front, which start below the hips and end slightly above the hem. The dress is unlined, and there are no tags or labels. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc29995/
Pillbox Hat
Pillbox hat of tan fur. Low circular crown covered in light tan fur, likely mink. Lined in pink fabric with band of blue fabric inside lower edge, overlaid with gold rickrack band. On each side along inside lower edge is a small brown plastic comb secured by black elastic cord to secure hat to wearer's head. Designer's label inside at back: "Sue Dooley / Dallas" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc87082/
Pumps
Pumps of cow hide dyed in a zebra stripe effect. The shoes have pointed toes, and 3" stiletto heels covered in black snakeskin. Retailer label: "Neiman-Marcus / Made in Italy" Stamped on sole of shoe: "Neiman-Marcus / Hand Made / In Italy / B / 8" Stamped inside shoe: "830 DA 8" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc87081/
Pillbox Hat
No Description digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc87088/
Pumps
Pair of pumps of brown and beige printed snakeskin. The shoes have 2" high brown, square chunky heel and oval toe. Designer label: "Stuart Weitzman / New York" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc87084/
Oxfords
Lace-up oxford style shoes of brown and beige leather, with a 1" flat heel and oval toe. Brown shoe laces. Designer label: "too / JOAN / & / DAVID / handmade in italy" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc87086/
Pillbox Hat
Pillbox hat of draped chiffon burnout velvet. Cylindrical large pillbox hat with shaped lower rim. The crown is draped/pleated horizontally in a chiffon burnout velvet with printed abstract designs burnt orange, yellow, and blue. Lined in a brocaded blue and sparkly fabric. At lower inside edge is band of gold rickrack. Designer's label inside rim at back: "Sue Dooley / Dallas" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc87083/
Pumps
Pair of pumps of steel gray/beige silk. Designed with a rounded toe, the shoes have a wide band of same fabric extending across instep. The 2" high heel is a modified Louis heel. Designer's label inside: "Margaret Jerrold" Retailer's label inside: "Neiman Marcus" Handwritten inside: "7aaa / 13994 / 6933C 3MJ" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc87012/
Pumps
Pair of pumps of brocade/tapestry. The shoes are designed with a rounded toe, the uppers covered in a brocade/tapestry cloth consisting of floral forms in greens, reds, blues, etc. on an ivory ground. Heels taper to base. Brand stamped inside: "Custom Craft" and "Custom Craft / Wool / Composition / Insole" Retailer's label stamped inside: "Neiman-Marcus" Handwritten inside: "6 1/2 AA 74721 / 4113 [illeg]" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc87010/
Gloves
Pair of gloves of tan suede. The wrist-length gloves are plain, with hand-stitching. Size/Designer Label stamped inside: "7 / Made in France / by / Roger Fare" Retailer Label: "Neiman-Marcus / Made in France" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc87018/
Pumps
Pair of ivory leather pumps. Designed with broad, rounded toe, the shoes have plain ivory leather uppers. Instep embellished with a removable decorative buckle of square form, set with rhinestones, mounted on curved rectangular plaques of same leather, giving impression of "bows". The 2 3/4" heel tapers to base. Brand label stamped inside: "Custom Craft" and "Custom Craft / Wool / Composition / Insole" Retailer's label stamped inside: "Neiman-Marcus" A & B: Shoes C & D: Buckles digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc87014/
Shoes
Pair of shoes of black patent leather and off-white translucent plastic(?). The shoes are designed with a gently pointed toe, in the spectator style. Toecap, heel, and edging of upper of black patent leather, the rest of the upper of an off-white translucent plastic with a woven texture. The edging along the upper is slightly scalloped, and the shoes are slingback style, with black patent leather straps around heels. The low heels taper to base. Shoe of black patent leather and white translucent plastic; spectator style; slingback. Low heels Brand label stamped inside: "Fiesa" Retailer's label inside: "Sakowitz / Houston" Handwritten inside, partly illegible: "7 1/2B A66[illeg] / A158[illeg]" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc87019/
Gloves
Pair of gloves of white cotton. The plain, daytime gloves are wrist-length. Retailer's label sewn inside: "Made in Western Germany / expressly for / Neiman-Marcus / 100% Cotton" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc87016/
Shoes
Pair of black patent leather "pilgrim style shoes". Designed with a pointed toe that is squared off at tip, the shoes have a black patent leather upper, the instep panel extending up to form a large tongue. Set across instep is a large silver "C" shape simulating a buckle. The chunky heel tapers to base. Inside stamp illegible. Handwritten inside: "6 AA 745" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc87013/
Gloves
Pair of gloves of ivory colored leather. On back of each glove is a stitched swirl design of 5 ribs. The gloves widen to end with piped hems, and extend to about mid-forearm. Appears to be a youth size. Stamped inside gloves: A) "ARIS" logo in hemisphere; "U.S. Pat. / Aug. 22'22"; and with various stamped numbers inside the glove for sewing and matching pieces. B) "5 3/4"; "U.S. Pat. / Sept 19'22 / Made in Germany"; and with various stamped numbers inside the glove for sewing and matching pieces. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc87118/
Bonnet
Infant's bonnet of white cotton, possibly as part of a christening set. Lace inset and tucking near brim. Gathered shell. Ties of self. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc87048/
Bonnet
Child's sunbonnet of white cotton. Cotton streamer ties. Channel stitching and eyelet lace ruffle on stiffened visor/brim. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc87049/