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  Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
 Decade: 1900-1909
 Collection: Texas Fashion Collection
Pumps
Pair of lady's dancing pumps of red kid leather. The shoes, designed with gently pointed toes, are of soft red fine kid leather leather with a square-ended flap at vamp/instep, and applied red satin bow at vamp. The inner sole of the shoe is a dark red quilted satin. The low heels are styled as a modified boulevard or Louis heel, with rounded sides and back, flaring to base, and straight across at front. Heels covered with matching leather. Sole of black leather at heel and tan on rest of shoe. Stamped in sole on one shoe: "2", on other: "4". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39013/
Hat
Hat of silk. The off-white silk crown is domed, with excess fabric forming a ruched band around the lower part of the crown. The front and sides of the crown are embellished with embroidery and needlework of large flowers and foliage in white. Around the base of the crown is a band of white grosgrain ribbon, with rosette and trailing ribbons at side. The medium-width oval brim is of white silk over stiffened mesh framework, with outer band formed by openwork stitching. The brim is set off-center to the crown, extending the farthest from side to side, and with more brim in front than at back. The underside of the brim is faced with black velvet. The hat is lined in white silk, now shattering. There are no labels or marks in the hat. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39059/
Shoes
Pair of lady's shoes of black leather and gray suede. The shoes, designed with pointed toes, are of black leather on toe box, and gray suede on heel, back, and strap across instep, which closes with button on outside of foot. Medium high heels are covered in matching suede and are styled as a modified boulevard or Louis heel, with rounded sides and back, and with curved front section. Sole of black leather. Retailer's stamp on sole: "MacDougall & Southwick Co. / Seattle, Wash." Hand-written notation on lining: "40 00 20704" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39022/
Shoes
Pair of ladies' off-white or cream heavy satin wedding shoes. Designed with rounded toes, the slip-in shoes had an embellishment across vamp of an applied white satin bow or pouch. One survives in part. Lined in white fabric. Sole of natural brown leather, heel covered in white satin. Medium-height heel with rounded sides and back, curving inwards and then straight down to base, similar to a modern continental heel. Stamped inside shoe in gilt: "Boston Shoe Store / New Orleans, LA" Stamped inside shoe in green: "350 19664" Worn by Elsie Gauthreaux at her wedding to Robert Iler, 1913. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39021/
Boots
Pair of boots or "High Button Shoes" of black leather. The shoes, designed with rounded pointed toes, lace closed along center front with laces 16 holes high. The low, stacked heels are rounded at sides and back, and are curved at front. The sole is of black leather. Shoes are lined in black leather and off-white cloth. The base of the heel is of black rubber(?) with molded grips. Manufacturer's mark molded into heel: "[Image of a walking man] / Healthway / USA". Stamped into sole: "Combination / Last" Handwritten notation on lining: "4/1/6 18261* / 51|23" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39027/
Shoes
Pair of lady's shoes of black leather. The shoes, designed as oxford style shoes with pointed toes, are of black leather which close along center front with laces, 6 holes high. High heels styled as a modified boulevard or Louis heel, with rounded sides and back, flaring to base, and with curved front section. Heels covered with matching leather. Sole of black leather. There are no marks or labels on the shoes. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39020/
Boots
Pair of lady's boots or "High Button Shoes" of white kidskin leather. The shoes, designed with pointed toes close along center front with laces, 17 holes high. Embellished at top with band of small holes along edge of boot. Medium/high heels styled as a modified boulevard or Louis heel, with rounded sides and back, flaring to base, and with curved front section. Heels covered with matching leather. Sole of tan leather. Stamped on lining: "Neiman-Marcus / Dallas" and "28D 23949" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39024/
Wedding Shoes
Wedding shoes of off-white leather. The shoes have pointed toes, and a "Mary-Jane" style strap across the instep which secures with a domed opalescent button. At throat of each shoe is a rectangular ornamental buckle covered with matching leather. The medium-high heel tapers slightly to the base and is covered with matching leather on the rounded sides and back; it has the same natural brown colored leather on the heel's curved inside and on the soles of the shoes. Retail's label stamped inside one shoe: "Sanger Bros. / Dallas Texas" Stamped inside both shoes on leather upper: "36-2 68082" The shoes are accompanied by a shoe bag of tan colored raw silk with a Japanese character style embroidery motif of blue silk worked in satin stitch. Worn by Jessie Knapp Nunnally of San Angelo, TX, at her wedding in 1902. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39029/
Shoes
Pair of lady's shoes of brown leather. The shoes, designed with gently pointed toes, are of the Oxford style of brown leather with openwork at sides of instep and with laced closure at instep of 4 holes height. The medium height heels are styled as a modified Cuban or continental heel, with rounded sides and back, tapering to base, and slightly curved at front. The heels covered with matching leather. Sole of tan leather, with rubber/composite on heel. Stamped in lining on one shoe: "Arch Rest / Drew / Portsmouth. O." Stamped into lining of shoe: "8 1/2 AAA 75537 / 6003" Stamped on inner sole: "[drawing of arrow] INTERIOR / DREW / [illeg]CK REST" Tooled into inner sole at heel: "SNUG-FITTING / HEEL" Molded into rubber of heel: "Biltrite" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39023/
Sunbonnet
Sunbonnet of off-white calico cotton with a tiny repeated print of three stylized leaves in brown. The brim of the hat is quilted in L-shaped rows of stitching and is very stiff from starch and stiffening material within it. The crown is gathered along the entire length of the seam where it attaches to the brim. The crown and tail are formed from a single piece of fabric, and the tail is stitched flat to the lower sides of brim. The neck is adjustable, having outer neck ties stitched to the lower corners of the brim on both sides. The chin ties are of the same fabric, with unfinished edges. The long tail on the bonnet indicates that it was used as a field bonnet. The TFC thanks Rebecca Jumper Matheson for her research on this object. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39157/
Hat
Little girl's Easter bonnet. Wired base with mushroom type top of black velvet and double ruffled brim of white lace. Small pink roses and green stems encircle hat above lace brim. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39156/
Boots
Pair of boots or "High Button Shoes" of gray/very pale blue leather. The shoes, designed with pointed toes rounded at the tips, lace closed along center front with laces 16 holes high. The high heels are rounded at sides and back, tapering to center and flaring back out at base, and are curved at front. The sole is of tan leather. Shoes are lined in matching leather and off-white cloth. Retailer's stamp on lining: "Byrn's Boot Sh [partly illeg] / Kansas City" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39015/
Dress
Day dress of black silk taffeta. The dress, in the style of the Aesthetic or Reform Movement, is full-length, with a slender silhouette. The front and back of the bodice is styled of tiny vertical knife-pleats, which gather into the rounded neckline. The side panels of the bodice are plain, and there is a line of 14 snaps along the left side forming the closure. The long sleeves are smooth, with slight pleating at the padded shoulders, and they taper to the pointed wrists. The sleeves have 5 hidden snaps and a line of 12 domed non-functioning black taffeta covered buttons on each sleeve. Bodice and skirt are divided by a thin black band. Skirt is fully pleated with tiny vertical knife-pleats. Bodice is lined with thin black crepe. Label sewn inside at back below neckline: "Harbison / Vandervoort's St Louis" Not shown is the accompanying cummerbund of black taffeta, the waistband of large horizontal pleats with a large fan/bow at back with wide, trailing ribbons. (43" from waist to lowest point of ribbons) digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30076/
Beaded Bag
Handbag. Rectangular bronze frame chased with scrolling floral forms. Ball/snap closure and bronze chain. Body of purse of off-white woven cloth covered in beaded design of red, pink, green, black, and white in an American Indian or possibly Caucasian motifs. Originally lined in pink silk. Frame is marked "Germany". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30073/
Mourning Ensemble - Bodice and Skirt
Black silk mourning ensemble consisting of bodice and skirt. The bodice of black silk is fitted and boned, with a high, standing black silk band collar with appliqued black lace medallions. It has full-length, modified bishop sleeves that gather into the armseye. Below the gathered cap, in the portion corresponding to the upper arm, the fullness of the sleeve is controlled with top-stitched vertical tucks. From the elbow to the cuff the fullness is again released in a bishop sleeve silhouette. The sleeves gather again into wide black silk cuffs with appliqued black lace medallions and four narrow bands of black velvet ribbon. The bodice front is constructed on the lines of a bolero jacket, with a deep V-shaped opening and wide ruffled collar which is constructed of horizontally tucked black crepe-patterned silk. The released fullness of the tucking creates the ruffled finish. The ruffled portion is edged with two narrow bands of black velvet ribbon. The bodice front has a bib fill of gathered black silk and tulle net that is secured with hook-and-eyes beneath the left collar overlay. The fill area disguises the true front opening which is secured with thirteen hook-and-eyes. The main body of the bodice, front and back, is constructed of vertically tucked black silk that finishes in a wide black silk waistband which is appliqued with black lace medallions and edged in narrow black velvet ribbon. The waistband laps slightly left of center and secures with three hook-and-eyes. The bodice is fully lined with heavily boned glazed black cotton and has figure enhancing pads sewn over the bust and underarm areas and has a black cotton petersham that hooks at center front. There are two hooks at back waist-level to connect the bodice to the skirt. The matching seven-panel gored skirt is of black silk and has a narrow waistband with center back placket opening secured with three hook-and-eyes. The rear fullness pleats into the waistband and disguises the opening. Two rear hooks at the waistline connect the skirt to the bodice. The full hem is embellished with seven horizontal rows of narrow black velvet ribbon. The hem is faced with black velvet, and there is a built-in bustle pad. There are no labels in the garment. The mourning dress originally belonged to Margaret Louise Walker (b.1840-d.1903), who lived on the Walker Plantation outside of Aberdeen. Mississippi. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30264/
Shoes
No Description digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc38995/
Boots
Pair of lady's boots or "High Button Shoes" of light blue leather and yellow suede. The lower section of the shoes, designed with pointed toes, are of pale blue polished leather. The upper sections, of yellow suede, close along sides with small mother of pearl(?) buttons, 12 buttons high. Medium/high heels styled as a modified boulevard or Louis heel, with rounded sides and back, flaring to base, and with curved front section. Thin silver-colored metal edge/band just above cap of heel. Sole of tan leather. Handwritten inside: "242 / G3064" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc38983/
Picture Hat
Picture hat of black straw. The hat has a broad brim of woven black straw with an upturned outer edge which is trimmed in black velvet. The low, domed crown is also of woven black straw, with a band of black ostrich feathers around the base of the crown. One large ostrich feather plume attached to base of crown and extends out and over the back of the brim. Inside crown is black cloth lining. Sewn inside crown is black cloth label: "Mme Georgette / 11 Rue Scribe / Paris" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc402502/
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