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  Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
 Collection: Texas Fashion Collection
Pillbox Hat
Pillbox hat of yellow plastic/vinyl tubing. Top of crown formed of a coil of the tubing bent into a square or diamond shape, encircled by more coiled tubing forming a circle, leaving open areas. The sides of the crown have other open areas, and form slight scallops at lower edge. Extending through the tubing from upper edge of crown is black net veiling, with small pieces of the yellow tubing worked into some of the intersections of the veiling. Interior of crown lined with yellow mesh, cut away at openings, and edged with a thin strip of beige/yellow velvet. Two small plastic combs are attached at either side to secure hat to wearer's head. Designer's Label inside crown: "Bes-Ben / Made in Chicago"; a second hand-written label sewn in: "510" Gift of Mr. John C. Murphy, through the Chicago Historical Society. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc38067/
Hat
Hat of pale yellow/tan straw. The sailor-style hat has a domed crown of pale straw encircled at the base with a band of pale yellow velvet with "bow" loop at back. Over the ribbon is a band of fine veiling. The circular brim is of the same straw on top, but is of double-thickness, the underside of white straw. The inside of the crown with a wide off-white grosgrain ribbon hatband. Accompanied by two short hatpins, with red velvet and gold ribbon heads. Retailer's label sewn to inner hatband: "Neiman-Marcus". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc38060/
Pillbox Hat
Pillbox hat of knit material with embroidery and mirrors. The black fabric of the hat is covered with yellow embroidered star shapes and small circular mirrors ca. 1.5 cm. in diameter bordered by red thread embroidery/crochet. Cylindrical crown formed as slightly "crushed", folding in in some areas and bulging out in others, and with gently scalloped lower edge. Top is generally flat, with an applied tear-drop shaped section of the same material, with trailing "ribbons" of same material extending off of back of hat. The edge of the applied panel and the lower edge of the crown are edged with alternating red and black beads, with two strands and two loops of the same beading descending from the between the "ribbons" at top. The inside of the crown is lined in red mesh and edged with red grosgrain ribbon. There are two plastic combs, one at either side, to secure hat to wearer's head. Designer's label inside crown: "Bes-Ben / Made in Chicago" Gift of Mr. John C. Murphy, through the Chicago Historical Society. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc38068/
Hatlet
Hatlet of navy blue appliques. The hatlet is composed of a small square or diamond shaped skullcap of dark blue mesh overlaid with dark blue braid appliques in scrolling forms decorated with french knots. Around the four sides are further triangular shaped appliques, wired along the edges, to stand up around the crown. Affixed near the lower edges of the hatlet is dark blue net veil. Hatlet is lined with blue mesh and edged with a thin band of dark navy blue velvet. At either side are small plastic combs to secure hatlet to wearer's head. Designer's Label: "Bes-Ben / Made in Chicago". Gift of Mr. William T. Doyle, through the Chicago Historical Society. From the estate of Dorothy Wrigley Offield. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc38064/
Hatlet
Hatlet of black velvet. Black velvet hatlet has a shallow domed crown edged with large upstanding "M" shapes and descending "V" shapes of black velvet edged with black beads. The overall effect is of a child's image of a coronet. The whole is overlaid with black net veil, with triplets of black beads worked into some intersections of the net. Crown is lined in black mesh netting and edged with black grosgrain ribbon. Two plastic combs inside crown help secure hat to wearer's head. Designer's Label: "Bes-Ben / Made in Chicago". Gift of Mr. John C. Murphy, through the Chicago Historical Society. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc38069/
Hatlet
Hatlet of brown velvet and plastic. Hatlet in calot (also spelled "calotte") style. Low circular domed crown of deep copper brown velvet is edged with band consisting of seven diamond-shaped plastic tortoiseshell plaques threaded and tied on two strands of brown plastic tubing. Surmounting hat is fine veil of brown netting. Crown is lined with brown mesh and edged with inner hatband of brown grosgrain ribbon. Three plastic combs are attached to inner hatband to secure hatlet to wearer's head. Designer's Label: "Bes-Ben / Made in Chicago" Gift of William T. Doyle, from the estate of Dorothy Wrigley Offield, through the Chicago Historical Society. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc38066/
Hatlet
Hatlet of modified calot type with brown, beige, white, blue and green feathers, the whole covered with a very fine veil sprinkled with tiny rhinestones. Inside of crown lined at center with a green silk(?), edged with green grosgrain ribbon. Outer part of crown lined in a green knit material. Attached to grosgrain ribbon are Hatpin of matching material. Lined in green fabric. Two combs attached to both sides of green grosgrain headband. No labels. Attributed to Bes-Ben at time of donation. Gift of Mr. William T. Doyle, through the Chicago Historical Society. From the estate of Dorothy Wrigley Offield. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc38063/
Cloche
Cloche hat of tan milan straw. The high crown is slightly dished, and narrows to brim, with wide band of tan/very pale green grosgrain ribbon at base with large "bow" at side. The straw brim is down-turned. The crown has an inner brown grosgrain ribbon hatband. Designer's label sewn to inner hatband: "Roger Heim / Made in France Paris", and retailer's ribbon sewn just above designer's label: "Made in France for / Neiman-Marcus". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc38045/
Fan
Folding fan. Thin polished wood or bamboo guards lacquered a dark mahogany. The thin sticks are dyed purple. Paper leaf with hand-painted abstract design of flowers and foliage on a reddish ground. Metal bail. Reverse is unadorned. No visible labels or marks. Gift of Mrs. Arthur Kramer, Sr., from the original Dallas Musuem of Fashion collection. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc38042/
Fan
Folding fan with tortoise-shell frame. Sticks and loop of tortoise shell; possibly for brise style fan; missing leaf or ribbon. Measurements: 39 cm extended; guard 21 cm long x 3 cm wide digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc38047/
Fan
Folding fan. Guards and sticks of carved and pierced ivory (bone?)with a foliage designs. The white sheer organdy leaf is hand-painted with central vignette of a garden scene of a couple greeting a woman seated on a bench. The leaf with added hand-panted border of a garland of flowers. Reverse is unadorned. No visible labels, marks or signatures. Fan has been in-expertly mended at some point previous to entering collection. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc38048/
Hat
Hat of white straw. Bonnet-style small summer hat of white Milan straw. The crown is formed of segments that arch over the head and enclose at back. Front with turned-back brim framing the face. Accented at right side by three black velvet circles. Lined inside along all edges with white grosgrain ribbon inner hatband. Retailer's label sewn to inner hatband: "Neiman-Marcus". Intended to be worn on the back of the head. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc38044/
Hat
Sailor-style hat of tan straw and brown yarn. The "crushable" hat has a tan/brown straw crown, slightly domed, with base of brown crocheted yarn. The circular brim, set off-center to the crown, is of double-thickness. The join between the crochet band and the brim has inner brown grosgrain ribbon hatband. Designer's label sewn to inner hatband: "Hattie Carnegie / Inc / Original" When not worn, or padded, the had "deflates" or "crushes" down, the crocheted section not significantly supporting the crown. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc38049/
Fan
Folding fan. Guards and sticks of lightly carved ivory (bone?) with scrolling foliate designs. The leaf is of white lace. Sticks are unadorned on the reverse. No visible labels, marks or signatures. Fan has alternately been identified as Irish lace or machine-made lace, and dated 1830's or 1880-1899. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc38046/
Hat
Hat of natural straw. Circular straw crown, slightly domed, with black grosgrain ribbon around base and surrounded by shaped straw brim. Brim is rounded in front for about 2/3 of circumference, and bound up with red stitching at back to form three corners at back. All edges of brim turned-up and edged in black velvet ribbon. From above, brim shape resembles a baseball field. Inside of crown with black grosgrain inner hatband, to which is attached two black elastic cords to secure combs to help hold hat on wearer's head. At front of hat is stitched a small "F" on the inner hatband to show front of hat. Designer's label inside crown at inner band: "Wm Silverman / New York", with smaller logo-form tag sewn in under larger label: "Wm Silverman" with scissors, needle and thread. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc38043/
Jumpsuit
Jumpsuit of pink, yellow, green and blue horizontal striped paper. The full-length rayon fiber remay paper pantsuit has olive green, pink, blue and tan stripes. Bodice is sleeveless, empire style, with with high rounded neckline and narrow spread collar, with stripes going horizontally. There is a center back zipper closure from the neck to hip-level. Pants are full-length, wide legged palazzo pants with vertical stripes. The pant legs are slit from the hem to mid-calf, and are unhemmed. The piece is lined in a white rayon fiber paper cloth. Retailer's label at inside left beneath the collar: "Change-In-Time / Boutique / Dallas, Texas". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30035/
Hat
Woman's black velour top hat. Designed after a man's top hat, this version has a cylindrical, slightly domed crown and narrow velour-covered brim which gently curves up. The brim has a second section below, also covered in black velour, that curves downwards, giving the brim an appearance of thickness. Around the lower part of the crown is a folded black silk taffeta grosgrain ribbon, with a large simulated silver metal buckle placed near the front on the right side of the hat. The buckle is of stamped metal simulating cut steel. The hat is lined in black silk. Embroidered label sewn to lining inside crown includes an oval frame containing a monogram, possibly RSCM, and "Gold Medal / Pattern" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30037/
Dress
Monastic Dress of red and black floral printed cotton. The dress is street-length, with natural shoulders, long sleeves and a high scoop neckline. At the waist is a black leather belt which passes through the garment at the sides, allowing the sides of the dress to be loose and flowing. The belt has a snap closure, and is designed to look "tied" at front. Also referred to as a Trapeze dress. Dress has two labels sewn inside at back of collar. Designer's label: "Claire McCardell Clothes / by Townley" and Retailer's label: "Neiman-Marcus" Belt has stamped in white on the back: "10 Claire McCardell 608" From the original Carrie Marcus Neiman Foundation collection assembled by Stanley and Edward Marcus. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30030/
Pillbox Hat
Pillbox hat of black velvet. The low, cylindrical, slightly domed hat is completely covered in black velvet. Affixed to the center front of the hat is a roughly fan-shaped aigrette of simulated gems and metallic braid with a surmounting spray of white feathers. The crown is lined in black fabric, and has a black grosgrain ribbon running along the inside bottom edge. Sewn to the inner ribbon is a plastic comb to secure the hat to the wearer's head. No labels. The aigrette is attributed to Robert Goossens, of Paris, who is known to have supplied to Balenciaga. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30205/
Handbag
Handbag. Rectangular frame of cast openwork brass floral designs with traces of gilding. Ball and snap closure and gilt brass suspension chain. Bag is of dark purple crocheted silk, with three different types of beading. Area at frame is plain all-over beading of purple/bronze iridescent cut beads. Below this, and at bottom of bag is fringe of looped beading. The main body of the bag has vertical stripes of beads arranged in horizontal rows. Lined with bright purple silk, trimmed in gold cording. Contains a small gold kid leather purse embossed with a stylized thorn pattern. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30207/
Dress
Dress of bright multi-color patterned chiffon. The full-length dress has a straight, loose shape, with a round neckline and long handkerchief-style sleeves which extend past hem. Zipper at center back, extending from neckline to just below waist, with a single hook-and-eye closure at neckline. The printed pattern of the material includes concentric shapes with geometric and floral influences. Designer label sewn inside back to left of zipper: "Pierre Cardin / Paris New York" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30208/
Hatlet
Hatlet of brown velvet. The open-crown hat is formed of a hollow square with down-turned sides and corners, covered in brown velvet and edged in tiny pearls. "Flying" around the hat are 8 golden stamped metal hummingbirds. One wing of each bird is hinged, allowting movement of the birds as the wearer moves their head. Over all is a brown net veil "capturing" the hummingbirds, with scattered gathers of 4 pearls. The underside is edged in brown grosgrain ribbon, and has two small plastic combs attached to secure hatlet to wearer's head. Sewn onto the inner ribbon is maker's label: "Bes-Ben / Made in Chicago". Also sewn onto inner ribbon is hand-written label "917". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30204/
Ensemble - Coat and Dress
Ensemble consisting of a coat and dress. The mid-length coat is of knit with a printed pattern of blue geometric shapes on a bright red ground, and has long sleeves and moderate collar with rounded points. Center-front opening with 4 square dark blue plastic buttons. Across back of coat is an attached belt of the same fabric, with buttons at each side, but does not extend around to the front. Fully lined in dark blue fabric. The mid-length dress is of the same fabric, and has short sleeves, a rounded neckline, and flares slightly to hem. The dress has a center-back zipper closure and is lined in the same fabric as the coat. Coat has a single retailer's label: "Lou Lattimore / Dallas" inside back at collar. Dress has slightly smaller version of same label, sewn inside at left of zipper near neckline. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30209/
Pumps
Pair of black suede pumps. Shoes have peep-toe design and are embellished across the vamp with an asymmetrical design in black ribbon and side 1/2 bow on outer side. 2 1/2" high continental set-in heels covered in black suede. Leather soles, grey leather lining. Printed grey cloth lining with logo "Lastep". Stamped inside heel of both shoes: "D13258 7 1/2A AAA / 6/A". Stamped on sole of each shoe: "The United States Shoe Co. / Reg U.S. Pat. Off. / Red Cross / Shoe" Stamped inside right shoe: "Red Cross Shoes" and "This product has no connection whatever / with the American National Red Cross". Use of the "Red Cross Shoe" brand was suspended during World War II when the American Red Cross objected. It was re-instated in 1948 on the condition they company publicly disclaimed all connection with the ARC. These shoes have the disclaimer stamped in the right shoe. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30206/
Coat
Coat of floral brocade and blue velvet. The mid-length wrap coat is made of Jacquard woven silk(?)in a pattern of flowers in blues, taupe, and browns on a dark brown ground, with metallic gold stitching throughout. The raglan sleeves and the collar are edged in wide bands of gathered ruched aqua blue/green velvet. Center front opening with no closures. The coat is lined in aqua blue/green velvet. No labels in garment. Owned by Mrs. Carlton L. Yager of California, aunt of the donor, who called it her "Opera Coat". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30232/
Hat
Hat of reddish-pink wool. The derby style hat has a domed crown made of four sections of cloth that meet at center. Each section has chevrons of stitching, which point towards the center of the crown, giving a subtle quilted effect. Narrow brim rolls upwards at sides and back. A black suede(?) bow is applied to base of crown at center left. Inside base of crown is a band of pink grosgrain ribbon. Sewn to inner ribbon band is maker's label: "Balenciaga / 10 Avenue George V Paris" and label "Made in France" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30237/
Pumps
Pair of black satin pumps. Shoes inspired by 1920's design, with a squared-off toe. Vamps have sections of black ribbed elastic on sides, and a central section at top with a row of four black plastic circular non-functional buttons along each edge. 2 1/2" modified boulevard heel covered in black satin. Written inside each shoe: "5 1/2 aa / D4827". Stamped on lining of each shoe: "Herbert Levine". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30230/
Jacket
Waist-length black simulated alligator jacket. The cropped shell is constructed of panels of leather blind-stamped to simulate alligator. Panels are edged with silver-colored circular metal grommeted eyelets, and are joined with knitted black cording. The high, rounded spread collar is of ribbed black knit. Zipper closure from throat to hem at center front. The jacket is unlined, and has two interior, black canvas, envelope pockets with snap closures. Label is located inside at center back, below the collar. "Paco Rabanne / Paris Made in France". Jacket was donated as part of an ensemble which also included black wool and cashmere knit sweater by Dior, and black hip-hugger trousers by Remy. The Valerian Stux-Rybar collection of materials was donated by Jean-Francois Daigre to the Metropolitan Museum of Art in memory of Daigre's companion V.Stux-Rybar. Part of collection was subsequently transferred from the Metropolitan Museum of Art to the Texas Fashion Collection. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30238/
Cloche
Cloche-style hat of off-white wool felt. The hat has a deep, cylindrical, domed crown of off-white or cream felt which extends downwards on one side. Around the crown is black zig-zag stitching, and on the side where the crown extends downwards is an applied strip of felt, looped, secured through a stiffened loop of red grosgrain ribbon. The hat is unlined, with a black grosgrain ribbon inner hatband. Sewn to inner ribbon band is maker's label: "Schiaparelli / Paris". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30234/
Hopsacking Pants
Men's pants of embroidered "hopsacking". The tailored trousers are made in the style of jeans, but of an ochre/golden brown cotton hopsacking material. Full-length, the legs flare slightly to hems. Jeans-style pockets, two welt pockets on front and two patch pockets on back. Waistband has beltloops spaced throughout. Zipper fly at front with three buttons to secure waistband. The pants have an all-over embroidery in vertical and horizontal bands of stylized leaves, triangles, and other shapes in gold, white, green, yellow, and magenta. There are no labels in the garment. The Valerian Stux-Rybar collection of materials was donated by Jean-Francois Daigre to the Metropolitan Museum of Art in memory of Daigre's companion V.Stux-Rybar. Part of collection was subsequently transferred from the Metropolitan Museum of Art to the Texas Fashion Collection. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30239/
Dress
Dress of printed cotton. The floor-length dress is of cotton with a printed geometric design of a lattice of black rectangles on white background. It is sleeveless, with black spaghetti straps. There is a wide black "belt" of "quilted" cotton just below the bust, with a bow in front. The dress has a center back zipper closure with two hook-and-eye closures at top. It is fully lined in thin white fabric. The designer's label is sewn inside bodice: "Clifton / Wilhite / Dallas"; a second label is sewn just below designer's label: "Lot 6464 Size 14" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30236/
Dress
Dress. Full-length sleeveless evening dress of printed silk. The bodice has a rounded neckline, bust darts, and widens slightly at hips. The silk print on the bodice is of horizontal stripes of black, yellow, green, and red. The skirt starts at a dropped waist, and is a slight "A" line in form. The printed on the skirt is of an Op Art pattern of pink, red, black, green, and purple squares and circles within squares, and with two large black squares, one on front and one on back. Black band at hem. The dress has a center back zipper closure and is lined in black silk. It has an accompanying black silk belt, 2" wide, with two domed buttons covered in black silk as closures. The dress has two labels sewn inside at back collar, to right of zipper. Maker's label: "Axel / of Denmark / 42" and second tag "Pure silk / by D'Este" [care instructions pictographs] and on reverse [care instructions pictographs] "Made in / Italy". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30233/
Cloche
Cloche hat of olive green silk velvet. The domed crown is constructed in eight sections, and surrounded by a pleated band of the same materials. Around the base of the crown is a band of green and silver metallic woven fabric. At right side of hat are two wide pendant green velvet ribbons, and applied to the side above the ribbons are peach/pink and cream velvet blossoms with green cloth leaves. Flowers attach with straight pins. Hat is lined in black. No labels. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30039/
Beachwear Ensemble - Bikini and Coverup
Beach ensemble consisting of bikini and coverup. The bikini top and bottom are of jersey printed with a modern art design of greens, pink and red stripes. Top has ties that go up and behind neck, and bands that reach around to back and secure with metal clasp. At front, between the cups along top edge is a non-functional tie made of piping made from the jersey material. Bikini bottom is low-cut. The coverup is of light chiffon, possibly silk, with swirling stripes in the same pattern as bikini. It is sleeveless, has a boat neckline, and rounded hemline. The pieces of the ensemble have various tags: In bikini top: "12" In bikini bottom: "Emilio Schuberth / Roma / Fabricato in Italia"; Made in Italy / Exclusively for / Neiman-Marcus"; "Made in Italy"; "12"; Helanca / Filanca / Marche Int. Dep." Stamped near hem of coverup: "Enzo Mari Per / Fio / Rio"; Sewn in tags: "Fio / Rio"; "Emilio Schuberth / Roma / Fabricato in Italia". Pattern designed by Enzo Mari (b. Novara, Italy, 1932). From the original Carrie Marcus Neiman Foundation collection assembled by Stanley and Edward Marcus. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30036/
Sunbonnet
Sunbonnet of brown linen. Made of a plain weave with both white and brown threads, the hat has pasteboard staves within the brim, a crenelated buttoning crown and long tail. The crown and tail are separate pieces, sewn together at neck seam, with the tail fastening to the sides of the brim by 3 off-white buttons on each side. The tail is semi-circular in shape, and the narrow chin ties are hemmed by hand. Poke-style bonnets are generally those that have brims stiffened either through quilting or plain starched fabric. Sunbonnets that rely on staves for brim support are not considered poke-style sunbonnets. The TFC thanks Rebecca Jumper Matheson for her research on this object. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30075/
Cocktail Dress
Cocktail dress. The bodice of the dress is of sheer black wool, with a Peter Pan style collar and short sleeves which are shirred at the ends. There is a narrow black satin ribbon at waist where the bodice meets the skirt. The skirt is composed of three layers. The innermost layer is of thick black chiffon, the middle layer is thin black chiffon/crepe. The outer layer is of panels of black and white printed hounds tooth/plaid chiffon, the panels arranged vertically and slit from 5" below waistline to hemline. The panels are gathered/pleated into the waistband. At the top of each slit is an applied black satin bow, forming a row of bows around the hip-line of the skirt. Each panel has side borders of black satin ribbon. The dress has a center-back zipper from neckline to below hips, with a single hook-and-eye at top of collar. There is an inner black grosgrain ribbon waistband, with hook-and-eye closure. The bodice is lined in sheer black material. Designer's label inside skirt: "Galanos" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30072/
Ensemble - Dress and Jacket
(At Right) Ensemble of printed silk. This cocktail or dinner ensemble in the "New Look" consists of a dress and bolero-style jacket of printed floral Ikat silk with a black ground and floral design in gray, browns and dark brown/mauve shades. The dress is mid-calf-length, sleeveless, and with a boat neckline. Tailored to fit, with bust darts, there is an attached bow of the same fabric just below the bust on the front. Slightly dropped waist, with box pleating from waist down the skirt. At front there are two box pleats that start at bow and continue down the front of the dress. Center back zipper closure. The dress has built-in under-structure consisting of inner half-slip of off-white satin, and three layers of stiffened netting petticoats, all with horsehair braid at hem. The matching jacket is of the same cloth, cropped short in the bolero style. It has 3/4-length sleeves and no collar. The center-front opening has no closures. It is fully lined in a brown silk organza. Sewn into the hem are French weights. There is no label in the dress. The jacket has a single designer's label: "Printemps-Ete 1956 / Christian Dior / Paris" which has stamped on it "80615". The "1956" appears embossed, not printed, and the black backing of the label is cut away behind the "1956". The Spring/Summer 1956 line was called the Fl├Ęche ("Arrow")Line. Photograph is from the exhibition "Haute Couture - The Great Paris Designers", held at The Grace Museum, Abilene Texas, October 17 - December 30, 2000, and shows ensemble as displayed. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30071/
Handbag
Handbag. Arched frame of silver (plated?), lightly chased and engraved. Openwork areas on sides of frame allow rings from suspension chain to slide up and down acting as "locks". Mesh bag with enameled design of flowers. Inside bag are makers tag marked: "Mesh / Whiting & Davis Co. / Bags / Reg. U.S. & Can." and brand tag marked "El Sah". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30077/
D'Orsay Pumps
Pair of brown suede D'Orsay Pumps. The shoes have brown suede rounded toe box and heel area, but are open at sides to the sole. Small inverted V cut at front creating "peep-toe" effect. On top of vamp is sewn on brown suede "tie" forming the effect of a bow. Brown suede ankle strap. Thick 3 1/2" high spike heel covered in brown suede. Marked inside heel of both shoes: "17061-1 / 6 S / 11310X"; Stamped on sole of both shoes: "Pandora / Footwear" The D'Orsay Pumps style of shoes is named after Count d'Orsay, a 19th century leader of French Society. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30078/
Purse
Purse / Handbag for afternoon use. Rectangular plain polished gunmetal / steel frame with ball/snap closure and matching chain of elongated links. Body of purse formed of gunmetal / steel mesh, with linked chain latticework along bottom edge, terminating in small spheres. Purse of gunmetal mesh, suitable for afternoon use. Inside of frame is engraved "Bessie H. Brown" and "Dallas Texas 4205 Swiss Avenue" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30074/
Sunbonnet
Sunbonnet of black silk taffeta. The brim of the hat has 6 shirred hoops with deep padding in between, and a ruffled edge of the same fabric. At center back of neck, on the tail of the hat, is a flat bow of black silk taffeta, and the ties are of black silk taffeta ribbon. The crown is lined with brown glazed cotton fabric. The TFC thanks Rebecca Jumper Matheson for her research on this object. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30079/
Dress
Day dress of black silk taffeta. The dress, in the style of the Aesthetic or Reform Movement, is full-length, with a slender silhouette. The front and back of the bodice is styled of tiny vertical knife-pleats, which gather into the rounded neckline. The side panels of the bodice are plain, and there is a line of 14 snaps along the left side forming the closure. The long sleeves are smooth, with slight pleating at the padded shoulders, and they taper to the pointed wrists. The sleeves have 5 hidden snaps and a line of 12 domed non-functioning black taffeta covered buttons on each sleeve. Bodice and skirt are divided by a thin black band. Skirt is fully pleated with tiny vertical knife-pleats. Bodice is lined with thin black crepe. Label sewn inside at back below neckline: "Harbison / Vandervoort's St Louis" Not shown is the accompanying cummerbund of black taffeta, the waistband of large horizontal pleats with a large fan/bow at back with wide, trailing ribbons. (43" from waist to lowest point of ribbons) digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30076/
Beaded Bag
Handbag. Rectangular bronze frame chased with scrolling floral forms. Ball/snap closure and bronze chain. Body of purse of off-white woven cloth covered in beaded design of red, pink, green, black, and white in an American Indian or possibly Caucasian motifs. Originally lined in pink silk. Frame is marked "Germany". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30073/
Dress
Dress. The mid-length dress has a pink crepe under-dress/slip which is overlaid with a black net sheath embellished with lavish black bead-work in the forms of rose-heads forming a trellis and fan-shapes in the openings of the trellis. The dress is sleeveless, with a high boat neckline. At natural waist is an attached pink satin belt with bow in front. Center back zipper, with section of hooks-and-eyes at upper part. The dress is accompanied by a long rectangular pink chiffon scarf. There are two labels in the dress, the Retailer's label "Neiman-Marcus" sewn inside at waist to right of zipper, and maker's label sewn inside near top of under-dress on left of zipper "Made in British Crown / Colony Hong Kong". No labels on scarf. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30225/
Ensemble - Dress and Bolero Jacket
Ensemble. The dress is of ivory wool, full-length, and sleeveless with a scoop-neck. Slightly A-line, with a slit at left side from hem up 18". Neckline is lower in back than front, and there is a center back zipper closure with hook-and-eye at top. The dress is fully lined in cream fabric. Designer's label in dress at side seam: "Norman Norell / New York". The accompanying bolero jacket is of red-orange with long sleeves. The cuffs, mandarin collar, hem, and center-front opening are edged with a wide band of off-white fur (fox or mink?). The jacket is decorated with closely-sewn rhinestones. The jacket is fully lined in cream fabric, and has a single hook-and-eye closure near throat. The jacket has no labels. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30222/
Boots
Pair of black suede boots. Over-calf-height square-toed boots lace up front, with 3 rows of eyelets at bottom and 15 hooks above. Block heel is covered in black suede. Lined in off-white kid leather and with a rubber and leather sole. Impressed in rubber sole: "Made in France". Stamped on lining inside: "Charles Jourdan / Paris" and "8 1/2 2A 468069 LE" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30221/
Evening Gown
Evening gown of heavily beaded beige silk satin. The bodice of the full-length gown has an empire waist, a wide scoop neckline, and is sleeveless. It has princess seaming, and internal boning at center front of the neckline. The skirt has fullness from the widening of the panels. The skirt and lower part of the bodice are beaded with floral/foliate forms in pinks, browns, yellows, clear and iridescent beads. The upper part of the bodice, in a deep band around neckline, back, and straps, is totally covered in iridescent sequins, beaded flower heads in bronze/brown and clear beads. The bodice is lined and has internal structures to help support and give form to the gown. The skirt is lined with stiff netting, and has an internal attached net crinoline. The gown has a center back zipper closure with hook-and-eye at top. There are no labels in the garment. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30227/
Pumps
Pair of deep wine red leather pumps. Shoes have a V-throat on vamp and are edged with thin bands of taupe leather around vamp and along outside panel ending in a triangular shape. 3 1/2" Continental set-back heel almost a stiletto, but wider and more oval in cross-section. Stamped in each shoe: "Charles Jourdan / Paris" and "Orient". Stamped inside each heel: "39 B / 63586 E". Stamped on sole: "Leather / Leder / Cuir / Made in / France" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30220/
Hat
Hat of red felt. Hat has a high, domed crown of smooth red felt. Around the base of the crown is a wide hatband made of a mosaic of various types and colors of feathers. At one side is a cluster of ostrich and spotted feathers forming a pom-pom, with one long curling brown striped extending up and back. The wide felt brim is somewhat asymmetrical, and curves down except for near the pom-pom, where it waves upwards. Inside, at base of crown, is red grosgrain ribbon band. Sewn to the inner ribbon band are two labels. Designer's label: "Adolfo / New York Paris"; Retailer's label: "Amen Wardy / El Paso Texas" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30224/
Ensemble - Jacket and Skirt
Ensemble consisting of jacket and skirt. The fitted black velvet jacket is encrusted with gold braid/ribbon in a lattice/trellis pattern over the entire surface, with added buttons, cabochons, beads, etc. lavishly sewn over the surface. The jacket has a no collar, and short capped sleeves. From the natural waist flares a peplum. The jacket has a center front closure of hooks-and-eyes. Unlined, it has built-in shoulder pads. No label in jacket. The accompanying straight skirt is full-length, of heavy black crepe. Center back zipper closure with hook-and-eye at waistband. Designer's label inside skirt at side seam: "Adrian / custom", along with a second label, typed on white grosgrain ribbon, sewn in: "Neiman Marcus 417 / Size 12". This garment reflects Adrian's celebration of the lifting of wartime restrictions on types and quantities of materials and trimmings that could be used in making clothes. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30229/