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  Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
 Collection: Texas Fashion Collection
Ensemble
Ensemble. A) Brown sheath dress of lace with floral motif, heavily hand beaded with tiny brown beads. Mid-length, scooped neckline, deeper in back. Sleeveless, with narrow straps. Slightly shaped hem. Inner brown satin lining sheath. Design house's label inside: "Mingolini Gugenheim / Piazza di Spagna 9-91- Roma" B) Brown sheer organza coat, mid-length, shawl collar, center front opening fastened by belt. mid-length sleeves. Leather belt built into waistline, covered with organza, the hook buckles covered in brown beading as dress. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286803/
Skirt Suit
Black wool two-piece skirt suit. A) Jacket. Just below hip-length, with center front opening with three hook-and-eye closures. Faux tie of same fabric at waist. Slight collar, and v-neckline. Thin orange/red inset line across front and up to shoulders. Long sleeves with inset orange/red panels along length of sleeves, with cording detailing and zipper closures at cuffs. Slit pockets just below waist. Designer's label: "Adrian / Original" B) Skirt of matching black wool. Street length. Possibly a replacement for the original skirt. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc283687/
Pillbox Hat
Pillbox hat of woven black/dark navy shiny straw. The low, cylindrical crown is woven to create horizontal ridges around hat. Inner black grosgrain ribbon hatband. Retailer's label: "Volk / Dallas" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286811/
Pillbox Hat
Pillbox hat of dark navy blue grosgrain cotton fabric. The low, cylindrical crown has a flattened top, and at back is a bow of same material, held by a vertical strip of same fabric. Hat is lined in a blue and white floral pattern lace-like fabric, and has an inner black grosgrain ribbon hatband. Label: "Henry's Hats" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286900/
Turban
Turban of light beige fine net with tiny beads(?) worked into the mesh. The hat is layered, and slightly pleated along the length. At back is a bow of same material, and at front is an ornate rhinestone set brooch of light green and brown stones forming a starburst design. Inner off-white grosgrain ribbon hatband. Designer's label inside: "Lilly Dache Paris 78 East 56th St. New York" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286818/
Turban
Turban of black satin. The low crown has pleating running lengthwise along crown, gathering at front where it is embelished with a crescent-shaped pin of various sized clear rhinestones. Inner black grosgrain ribbon hatband. Designer's label: "Shelia / the perfect hat / Chicago" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286825/
Fez
Fez-style hat of red felt. The cylindrical crown has a flat top into which the sides are pleated to form a rosette with a central circle from which extends the black cord tassel. Unlined. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39087/
Pillbox Hat
Pillbox hat of light brown mink. The low, circular crown is made of mink tails arranged in a pinwheel design, radiating from center of the flat top of the crown. Lined in mesh and a brocade floral fabric. Inner black grosgrain ribbon hatband. No labels in garment. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286801/
Cap
Cap of dark gray wool. The cap is styled as a Garrison Cap (aka Side Cap, or Wedge Cap). Influenced by military headgear, this hat is constructed as a flat envelope, which opens along long edge to form a wedge-shaped crown. Running width-wise across crown is a band of the same fabric with parallel lines of top-stitching in white thread. Lined in a dark gray fabric. No labels in hat. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286928/
Skirt Suit
Skirt suit. A) Jacket of ivory wool with shirt collar with long, wide lapel that is rolled around toward the front and held in place by 2 gold coiled ornaments, one on each side; single snap closure at center-front with gold S-shaped ornament over; jacket is fitted at waist with two crescent seams; long sleeves with inner shoulder pads; two diagonal pockets at hips with lapels; lower hip length; lined in soft white synthetic. B) Pencil skirt of black wool with 4 panels and 1” waistband with diagonal snap closure at left back side; left back zip closure; 6” slit at front right; 24” length; lined in black synthetic. Size 38 Designer's label: "Thierry Mugler / Paris" "Made in France" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286916/
Dress
Dress of bright lime green wool. Knee-lenght and sleeveless, with a high neckline ornamented with 6 rows of topstitching. Empire waisted, with the lower portion of dress split into four long panels, scalloped to form petals with quilted, topstitched edges. Center back zipper with two hook & eyes. Upper portion of dress lined in lime colored acetate. Designer's label at inside back neckline: "Pierre Cardin / Paris New York" Retailer's label beneath designer's label: "Marie Leavell" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286835/
Shirt Dress
Shirt dress of brown cotton. Knee-length, with v-neckline and shirt-style collar and lapels. Center front opening with square snaps. Two patch pockets at bust with box pleat at center of each; pockets extend to waist seam; elbow-length sleeves with 2” cuff, and inner shoulder pads; skirt with two patch pockets at each side with pleats as upper pockets; pockets extend to hem. Size 42 With matching belt of brown cotton backed with leather; covered rhombus buckle has one elongated angle; 34 ½” length. Designer's label: "Thierry Mugler / Activ" "Made in Italy" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286949/
Evening Gown
Evening gown of brown silk. The full-length gown is strapless, with stitched horizontal pleats at left bodice; skirt wraps over toward the left and both crescent shaped sides are trimmed in a pleated ruffle flounce with a shorter ruffle flounce revealing the longer one; bound edges and hemline; lined in brown acetate; center-back zip closure. Designer's label: "Liancarlo / Couture" Retailer's label: "Neiman Marcus" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286816/
Hat
Hat of purple felt. Designed to appear as a beret, the hat has a low crown, folded and somewhat crushed, with parts extending out as a brim in front and a "wing" at side. No real brim, but the extensions of the crown simulate one. Curled around the "wing" is a band of metallic thread and beading braid. Unlined. With purple grosgrain inner hatband, and a black elastic cord to help secure hat to wearer's head. Maker's label: "Parkridge / Exclusives" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286902/
Hat
Hat of light blue ostrich feathers. Designed on a circular under band of light blue velvet-covered wire, the hat is formed of a radiating spray of dyed ostrich feathers, with light blue netting extending out as a veil, and with two light blue ribbon loops with attached simulated tortoise-shell hairpins to secure hat to wearer's head. Unlined. Designer's label: "Damozel / New York" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286819/
Cap
Cap of ocher/dark yellow wool. Designed somewhat as a "watch cap", the hat has a high domed crown, which folds up at bottom to extends back upwards almost the entire height of the crown. Spaced top-stitching along upper edge. Unlined. Designer's label inside: "Adolfo II / New York Paris" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286911/
Evening Dress and Jacket Ensemble
Evening ensemble. A) Evening dress of white crocheted silk floral lace over ivory chiffon. The full-length strapless sheath dress has a body-skimming silhouette and a straight-line upper edge at bust trimmed with a band of ivory satin. Hemline dips at back, and creates a very slight train effect. Size 8 B) Jacket of double faced ivory silk satin with open-front and shawl collar which extends to waist-length hem. Long dolman sleeves extend to hem with gauntlet cuff with 2 ½” slit. Size 6 Designer's label: "Pamela Dennis / New York" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286884/
Cloche
Cloche of brown/rust/beige crochet. The cloche is of openwork crochet, with a high, domed crown, having a wide band at lower edge that is solid crochet. Unlined. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286865/
Dress and Jacket Ensemble
Ensemble of burgundy crepe a) Jacket is hip-length, and has round collar; bodice opens at center front, and has wide waistband that fastens with 2 self-buttons and loops. Gathered into waistband is peplum with circular ruffle; long sleeves are gathered at armhole have circular ruffles going down and around sleeves; b) Dress is below-knee-lenght, and has low V-neck formed by wide shoulder straps which button to lower back of dress; set-in empire waistline; sleeveless; bias cut skirt; zipper at left side back. Designer's label: "Ossie Clark / Paris" "Made in France" Handwritten style label: "59115 - 38 - 97727/19.92" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286918/
Evening Gown
Ballgown of olive/brown iridescent silk taffeta with all over Lesage embroidery of metallic thread, beads, small sequins, and green chenille yarn. Full length; round neck; long sleeves; center back zipper. Lined in copper colored organza. Designer's label: "Pierre Balmain / Paris" Style label under designer's label: "173666" Accompanying gown, but not shown: Stole of olive green silk; fringed ends. Petticoat for dress. Under layers of very stiff olive netting. Inner support bodice of copper brown silk; extends below waist to knee to form underskirt. Back zipper. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286947/
Pillbox Hat
Pillbox hat of brown woven ribbon-like paper with a lustrous finish. The shallow cylindrical crown is slightly concave at top, and has a slightly undulating lower edge. Hat is lined with a printed fabric with Asian-style scene of bamboo and birds, edged with tan/beige grosgrain ribbon, and a band of gold rickrack. Attached at each side at inner edge is a small plastic comb to secure hat to wearer's head. Designer's label inside at back: "Sue Dooley / Dallas" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc87071/
Pillbox Hat
Pillbox hat of woven green ribbon-like paper. The pillbox hat has a low, slightly "dimpled" crown, and is formed of woven green paper ribbon in various widths. Lower edge is turned up and folded over. At back is a flat bow of same material. Hat is unlined, with pale green grosgrain ribbon along inside lower edge as inner hatband. Attached to either side at inner hatband is a small plastic comb to secure hat to wearer's head. Designer's label inside at back: "Sue Dooley / Dallas" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc87072/
Pillbox Hat
Pillbox hat of tan fur. Low circular crown covered in light tan fur, likely mink. Lined in pink fabric with band of blue fabric inside lower edge, overlaid with gold rickrack band. On each side along inside lower edge is a small brown plastic comb secured by black elastic cord to secure hat to wearer's head. Designer's label inside at back: "Sue Dooley / Dallas" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc87082/
Dress
Dress of black net with all over applique of strips of gold holographic foil and braided black netting. Calf length. Bodice top has a series of points. Three-quarter length sleeves of sheer black net. Skirt has five layers: appliqued over-skirt, three layers of black net and lining of light brown silk covered in black net. Center back zipper. Designer's label at side seam: "Pierre Balmain / Paris" Handwritten style number tag under designer's label: "172257" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc283671/
Hat
Hat of black felt. Styled somewhat as a fez, the hat has a slightly conical crown with flattened top. At back are two segments of black silk braid/knotwork. Inner black grosgrain ribbon hatband. Designer's label: "Original / Helen Smith / Marshall Field Annex - Chicago" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc87075/
Dress
Dress of green silk and hand beading. Bodice is green with netting ; V-neck; lace and beading detail on bodice. Strapless, with off-the-shoulder "cap sleeves" of black lace with green beaded floral motif; motif continues over full length skirt. Green sash attached to bodice. Side zipper closure. Designer's label: "Michael Faircloth" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286938/
Skirt Suit
Woman's skirt suit of grey-black twill wool with blue and creme yellow pinstripe. a) Jacket has flat pointed collar with a rectangular insert yoke panel trimmed with four teal, olive and brown mottled plastic buttons. Center front opening with three same buttons and bound button holes. Bodice has 3 faux pocket flaps on right, increasing in size like a step pyramid. Long, one-piece set in sleeves sleeves with two elbow darts on both arms. Right arm has two rectangular, decorative fabric panels on right sleeve of jacket's fabric, with a single button and bound button hole each in the upper, outer corner. Lined in tan silk faille. Designer's Label at center back collar: "Adrian/ in/British Samek Material" (b) A-line skirt with CF and CB and side seams. Hemmed in navy blue hem tape, blind hem (slip) stitched on both sides. 3" hem. Four waist darts, with 1 3/8" waist band ending in arrow tip over left-side lapped zipper. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286814/
Skirt Suit
Skirt suit of black English gabardine. a) Jacket with parallel rows of scalloped seam details which angle from the center front neck and shoulders to the side seam to meet the back scalloped seams. Convertible collar. Long, two-piece sleeves with scallop seam detail from wrist to shoulder; underarm shaped with dart. Center front opening with three self covered buttons with bound buttonholes. Lined in black textured silk. Designer's label at inside, right front buttonhole extension: "Adrian / Original" Retailer's label at inside back neckline: " Neiman-Marcus" b) Pencil skirt of same with center front scallop from hip to hem; last scallop is used for shaped vent. Lined in black textured silk. Lapped left-side zipper. Waistband overlap ends in a triangle. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286829/
Pantsuit
Pantsuit of orange and ivory polyester double knit. a) Blouse has Peter Pan collar and full yoke of ivory polyester. Orange knit fitted bodice has cap sleeves. Flares slightly below waist. Self fabric belt buckles around hips. Zipper CB. Designer label removed. b) Orange hip-hugger pants are straight legged, stopping above ankles. Overlapping hook and eye closure. Zipper CF. Entire suit is lined in white polysatin. Designer's label at inside center back: "Courreges / Paris" Label below designer's label: "Made in France 0" Retailer's label: "Made in France / Exclusively for / Bonwit Teller" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286883/
Wedding Dress
Wedding dress of hot pink net with shirred all-over appliques and rhinestones. Dress is a short sheath style with V-neck and long sleeves with full length train in back with pink satin bustle with pink silk flowers. Has a matching headpiece with hot pink net veil, not photographed. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286837/
Dress
Dress made of multiple fabrics including velvet, cotton, and silk in red, green, brown, blue, and orange multicolored floral and Indian prints, in a patchwork of vertical strips with metallic thread trim. Applied throughout are decorative metallic ovals. The dress is full length, with a flared skirt, long bell sleeves, and a low square neckline. Unlined. Zipper at center back extending from neckline to just below waist, with a single hook-and-loop at neckline. Label sewn to inside back to left of zipper: "Sant'Angelo". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc283760/
Dress
Dress of cashmere knit with motif in black, gray and pinks. Designer's signature of "Emilio" in the fabric print. Long sleeves; round, bateau neckline. Knee length. Center back zipper. Designer's label at inside right back: "Emilio Pucci / Florence - Italy / Made in Italy" Retailer's label on inside left back: "Neiman-Marcus / Trophy Room" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286787/
Cape
Straight cape of black long-hair monkey fur. Full length, no arm holes, arm slits nor sleeves and no collar. 5 heavy hook and eye closures down center front. Fully lined in black wool crepe-felted. Very heavy. Likely to be Columbus monkey. Designer's label at right side at seam "Hattie Carnegie" Retailer's label at back center top "Neiman-Marcus Dallas"; digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286874/
Evening Dress
Short evening dress of silver lamé and sequined lace with ostrich feather skirt. Straight strapless bodice with drop waist. Lower skirt covered with vertical rows of beige feather boa. Lined in taupe silk. With matching boa of ostrich feather with silver and gold Lurex thread. Designer's label on inside back shoulder: "Victor Costa" Style number tag under designer's label: "Style 7780 / Size 8" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286821/
Dress
Dress of bright red wool. Sleeveless; jewel neckline; knee length. Empire waist with inserted panel, quilted and top-stitched. Center back zipper with hook & eye. Kick pleat opening at center front seam. Lined in bright orange silk. Designer's label at inside, back neckline: "Pierre Cardin / Paris New York" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286919/
Hat
Hat of open-work crocheted olive green straw. The high, somewhat conical crown is encircled at base by a band of green velvet ribbon. Sloping brim of same openwork crochet. Scattered over crown and trailing onto brim in places are applied artificial sprays of small white flowers with green leaves. Unlined. Inner green grosgrain ribbon hatband. Designer's label: Ursula Hammil digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286937/
Hat
Hat of open-weave white raffia. The hat is designed with a high domed crown, which is encircled at base by a band of same material set with 5 diamond-shaped gold-colored metal buckles. The wide, floppy brim extends downwards, and is "waved". Hat is unlined. Label inside hat: "Made in Italy" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286872/
Cloche Hat
Cloche style hat of black felt with 2' flared brim. Hatband of 1" black grosgrain ribbon with simple bow in front. Unlined with black grosgrain inner headband. Stamp on inside crown: "100% Wool / Starfire / Melange / Blend-Felt / Henry Pollak, Inc. / New York" Retailer's label on inside headband: "Parkridge / Exclusives" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286858/
Pillbox Hat
Pillbox style hat of black satin. Edge of crown wrapped in folds of same fabric. Inner headband of black grosgrain ribbon. Retailer's label on inside headband: "Neiman-Marcus" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286797/
Hat
Cap of navy felt with visor. Crown is formed of six wedges of fabric making a hexagon-shaped crown. Inner headband of black fabric with same fabric covering crown section seams. Unlined. Union label on inside headband at back. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286931/
Beret
Beret style hat of crocheted black cording with golden flakes. Unlined. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286808/
Pillbox Hat
Pillbox hat of black straw. The low, cylindrical crown of black woven straw has a flat top, slightly recessed, forming a ridge around outer edge. Retailer's label: "Neiman-Marcus" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286906/
Hat
Hat of grey/beige and off-white yarn. The crocheted hat, of cloche-style, has a conical crown flattened at top, and a hatband at base formed of a wide band of twisted off-white yarn passing through loops of grey/beige yarn. The hat has a small rolled brim. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286923/
Hat
Hat in hood style of tan angora with scattered large golden paillette sequins applied over the entire surface. Hat covers head and back of neck with panels that extend around to secure at center front under chin with one circular button and loop. Unlined. Retailer's label sewn into right side panel: "Saks Fifth Avenue" Price tag stapled to left side panel: "100" (1 dollar?) digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286834/
Hat
Hat of navy straw. Domed crown and wide, floppy brim trimmed with white topstitching. Two large white silk flowers, leaves and stems as trim on crown. Hatpin with black, oval head. Unlined with navy grosgrain ribbon inner headband. Retailer' label on inside crown: "Neiman-Marcus / Made to Order" Tag on inside headband: "Made in France" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286839/
Turban
Turban style hat of black suede. Lined in white satin. Retailer's label: "Neiman-Marcus" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286855/
Pantsuit
Pantsuit of black wool. A) Jacket. Bolero-style cropped jacket has wide collar with soft edges and center front opening with no closure. Cut-away at front and with long sleeves, the jacket has inner shoulder pads and is fully lined in black silk satin. B) Pants. Full-length, high-waisted, and with tapered legs, the pants have a satin waistband and inverted pleats at top of hips at front and back. Slit pockets at sides open along edge of a black satin stripe which runs length of leg at side. The pants have a side zipper and hook-and-eye closure. Designer's label: "Yves Saint Laurent / Rive Gauche" "Made in / France" "Paris" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286820/
Jacket
Jacket of black, green, red, pink, and yellow flannel in a large, painterly plaid pattern. The jacket is just below hip-length, and has a round neckline and no collar. Center front closure has a zipper with a gold metal rose charm pull, matching the pulls of the zippers on the two diagonal slit pockets at hips. Long-sleeved, with three non-functional buttons at wrists, formed as coiled snakes/spirals of gold metal. The jacket has inner shoulder pads and is fully lined in black satin. Designer's label: "Ungaro / Parallele / Paris" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286901/
Evening Gown
Evening gown of black velvet. The strapless, full-length gown is tulip-style, with structured bodice and flaring skirt from just below hip. The interior is lined in acetate with skirt slip trimmed in 2 ruffles of fine net. Inside the bottom of the skirt are 2 under-skirts of ruffled fine net. Gown has a center-back zipper and hook-and-eye closure. Designer's label at inside back: "Patricia Rhodes / PR" Size label: "6" Content/Care label. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286838/
Ensemble
Evening ensemble of brown silk jersey and sequined appliques. A) Dress. Sleeveless, the full-length sheath dress has 1” wide straps which are embellished with length-wise decorative top stitching. The dress has an empire waist, and a modified sweetheart neckline. The bust is covered with floral/leaf form appliques which are covered in translucent brown sequins and edged in gold metallic thread. Center back zipper closure from top to mid-back, and slit from center back lower hem upwards. Lined in brown polyester. B) Jacket. The matching jacket is of bolero form, cropped short, with no collar and a slightly undulating neckline which continues along the edges of the center front opening, and the lower edge. Long sleeves have cuffs with same edging. The whole jacket is overlaid with floral/leaf form velvet appliques edged in metallic gold threading and covered with sequins in various shades of brown. Jacket has inner shoulder pads and is lined in brown polyester. Designer's label: "Liancarlo / Couture" Retailer's label: "Neiman Marcus" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286793/