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  Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
 Decade: 1920-1929
 Collection: Texas Fashion Collection
Infant's Jacket
Infant's jacket of cream colored wool twill. One piece construction. Edges trimmed with ivory blanket stitch embroidery. Open on sides. Closed with ivory ribbons at neck and under arms. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc87058/
Child's Slip
Infant's slip of cream wool. Sleeveless with snap opening at shoulders. Trimmed with ivory blanket stitch embroidery around neckline, arm openings and around scalloped hemline. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc87059/
Infant's Slip
Slip for an infant of white cotton. Sleeveless. White work embroidery at neck and hem. Narrow lace edging at neck and armholes with wider lace edging at hemline. Two button closure at center back neckline. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc87056/
Purse
Clutch style purse of size 18 beads in paisley pattern in shades of pink, blue, peach, black and opal white. Wide brass lift lock closure includes 5 shapes of size 16 beads with repeating patterns. Lined in cream colored satin with two pockets. Finger loop of same on back side of purse at top. Maker's label on inside of purse: "Made in France / Exclusively by / Florentine" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc276979/
Headband
Headband of black felt. The hat is designed to fit across the top of the head, coming to a rounded point on left side, and with an enlarged circular end on the left which sits higher on the head. The headband is "peaked" along the length, adding height to wearer. Designer's label sewn inside: "Marcelle Rousseau / Dallas" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc277141/
Purse
Cosmetic case of silver in envelope shape with etching. Plunger opening. Gold interior of floral design with mirror and openings to hold makeup. Silver chain handle alternates between chain links and bars. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc277158/
Fan
No Description digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc38053/
Gloves
Pair of gloves. Ivory kid leather gloves with brown and gray embroidery. Hands have inside seaming; 3 darts on top; darts highlighted by rows of gray chain-stitching with ivory dots woven in; wrists have sewn on cuffs; cuffs feature strip of pale off white leather; embellished with geometric and circle embroidery in brown thread; snap under wrist creates keyhole underneath as well. Stamped inside in purple ink: "Made in Belgium / Real Kid". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc38132/
Gloves
Gloves of light off white kid leather with brown piping. Hands have 3 darts outlined with brown thread on top; wrist portion extends almost to elbow; triangular inserts of same leather with tiny circles punched out lays over brown leather create full trumpet shaped wrist opening; vent at bottom wrist near hand with 2 pearl button closures. Stamped inside of left glove: "Made in Saxony"; "9468"; "V T ES / 1445"; "ARIS" (logo within arch); "US PAT / AUG 22 '27" Stamped inside of right glove: "6"; "US PAT / SEPT 19'22"' "3126 / 8"; "9468" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc38133/
Hat
Headwrap of blue chiffon with band of tan mink fur centered with white rhinestone clasp as trim. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114893/
Evening Shoes
Pair of cream satin sling-back evening shoes with leather embellishments. The shoes, designed with rounded toes, are in a modified D'Orsay pump style, with sides cut back. Plain cream satin uppers are edged with wide bands/stripes of gold and silver metallic leather. 2" high heel, slightly set-in, tapering slightly to base. Stamped inside: "Saks / Fifth Avenue" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114894/
Bonnet
Child's bonnet of peach colored, gathered silk crepe with tiny silk ribbons and flowers. Mint green silk velvet ribbon ties. Lined in white cotton gauze. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114969/
Dress
Dress of navy wool gabardine in two parts. The main body of the tubular-shaped dress is full-length, sleeveless, with a round neckline. It has decorative bead-work at upper bust, on back at shoulders and down spine, in a line from right hip down to hem, and around hem. The bead-work includes lines of red and clear beads, spirals and "bursts" of clear and red beads, circular ornaments of red beads, and a roundel at front to bottom right at hem of a scene of a wine jug against a blue, clear and green background. The dress has an opening from left shoulder to waist which is secured with a line of hidden snaps, and is decorated with nine cloth and plastic circular non-functioning buttons arranged in groups of three. The dress is unlined. The dress has with it a detachable cropped camisole of white cotton with center front hook-and-eyes closure and white elastic waistband. The sleeves of the camisole are of navy wool gabardine, bell-shaped, and match the dress. They are decorated with the same style bead-work as the dress, including lines of red and clear beads running from shoulders to wrist, clear and red beaded spirals and "bursts", and roundels with designs in blue, red, and green. When worn, the camisole sleeves blend in with the dress and look like one garment. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30119/
Pumps
Pumps of black satin and black kid leather. Vamp with cutwork in leather forming a modified sunray or comet design centered on circular metal button set with rhinestones. The cutwork is embellished with black jet beadwork. Louis XV style heels covered in black satin. Stamped inside one shoe in gold, partly illegible: "Kasson's / Knickerbocker / Cincinnati" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30028/
Handbag
Large Handbag. Rectangular gilt frame with ball/snap closure set with cabochon green stones. Body of bag formed of red, silver, grey, and black beads in a mosaic/Turkish carpet pattern. Bottom of bag with beaded fringe matching body of bag. Lined in pale peach satin with one pocket and attached small coin purse. Sewn into lining is woven tag "Made In France"; Marked on frame "Made In France". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30017/
Cloche
Cloche of chocolate brown felt. The hat has a domed crown of brown felt to which is applied segments of sienna red/brown velvet as appliques, forming draping at sides. Unlined, with inner brown grosgrain ribbon hatband. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39065/
Cloche
Cloche hat of tan straw. The high, domed crown is of woven tan straw in a spiraling pattern. On either side of the crown is an applique in blue, pink/gray, and black felt of an arc or half-circle. On one side, the arc points up, on the other side it points down. Around the base of the crown is a narrow band of black felt. The brim is also of woven straw, upturned at sides and edged with black felt. The hat is lined in a slightly iridescent bronze/gold fabric, now very shattered. Inside the crown is stitched an ornate label, with a view of two women playing tennis and the inscription: "Berkeley / Made in / California". A small arrow and the word "Front" indicates the front of the hat. Attached to an inner seam of the lining is size label "22". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39067/
Cloche
Cloche hat of beige felt. The high, domed crown is of dark beige/brownish felt, pulled and gathered to create texture at top back. The brim, of the same felt, is narrow, curving down at sides and up at back. Around the base of the crown is a wide band of brown grosgrain ribbon, which passes through slots in the upturned back section of the brim. At the side of the hat, the ribbon is gathered slightly, and has three segments that extend forward around the crown, fanning upwards to partly cover the front of the hat. The hat is lined in a slightly iridescent bronze fabric. In crown of hat is ornate embroidered label consisting of an oval surmounted by a device with triple ostrich plumes; small coats of arms at the ends of the oval, and the text " Imported / Amhat / Chiffon Felt", with inscription below: "Reg. U.S. Patent Office". Attached inside base of crown is original paper tag: "Berlin / Amhat / New York" and "Triste / Imported / Chiffon Felt". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39064/
Hat
Hat of red purple/plum silk velvet. The hat has elements of a turban, tam-o-shanter, and beret. It is made with an oversized crown of red purple or plum velvet, gathered, caught, and draped, pulling under and then back out to form a brim that does not extend as far as the billows of fabric from the crown. The fabric is embellished with running lines of matching chenille, and clusters of silver-gray painted wooden beads. The hat is lined in black satin. Retailer's label sewn inside crown: "Pogue / Cincinnati". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39069/
Hat
Hat of brown felt with cloche style crown. Folded brim and front tie of same. Unlined with brown grosgrain ribbon headband. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39066/
Cloche
Cloche hat of olive green silk velvet. The domed crown is constructed in eight sections, and surrounded by a pleated band of the same materials. Around the base of the crown is a band of green and silver metallic woven fabric. At right side of hat are two wide pendant green velvet ribbons, and applied to the side above the ribbons are peach/pink and cream velvet blossoms with green cloth leaves. Flowers attach with straight pins. Hat is lined in black. No labels. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39063/
Cloche
No Description digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39099/
Cloche
Cloche hat covered in appliqued velvet leaves. The cloche hat has a domed crown completely covered with vari-colored velvet leaves/blossoms in shades of pink, red, green, gold, fuchsia, brown, purple, etc. At base of crown is tied a fuchsia velvet ribbon with bow with ribbons trailing at right. Slight brim below ribbon, which extends downwards. The hat is lined in pink/fuchsia lace, and has an inner purple/mauve grosgrain ribbon hatband inside base of crown. Sewn into inner ribbon hatband is retailer's label: "Stern and Mann / Millinery. Received with a period white-painted wooden hat-stand. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39202/
Bonnet
Bonnet of multicolored fruit print cotton. Eyelet lace trimmed edges. Stiff brim and ties of self. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39209/
Hat
Hat of brown straw. Based on a boater, the hat has a crown of woven brown straw, somewhat domed, and somewhat "mushroom shaped", extending out over the sides of the crown. Around the base of the crown is a band of brown and tan silk ribbon, which has been unraveled. To one side of the crown is affixed a large pink/patterned silk crepe flower. The wide brim curls slightly at edge, and is trimmed at edge with the same unraveled ribbon. The crown is partly lined in black fabric with drawstring closure at top to adjust fit. There are no labels or tags in the hat. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39238/
Cloche
Cloche of pale green straw and orange velvet. Domed crown of the cloche-style hat is overlaid with orange/red velvet leaf shapes. Around the sides of the crown are applied overlapping circular panels of pale green braided straw. On the left side of hat a single straw panel is placed low so that half of it hangs below the crown. Inside of hat is lined with peach silk. Designer's label inside crown: "Dauphine / Paris / New York". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39122/
Cloche
Cloche of rose straw. The high, rounded crown is of finely braided rose/pink colored straw. At one side is an applique in green, beige, peach, and brown of a stylized floral design in silk taffeta with colored straw detailing and outlines. Around the base of the crown is a segment of rose satin quilted with lines of copper and tan straw, turned up at front to form a brim and turned downwards at back. The hat is lined in an iridescent red satin. There are no labels in the hat. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39120/
Hat
Hat of black felt. The hat, for day wear, has a domed black felt crown. On either side of the crown is a large black velvet bow with trailing ribbons. The black felt brim is set off-center, providing for more brim at front of hat and less at back. The front of the brim curves up, and is faced in black velvet. The front half of the hat has a black veil with scattered "dots" in the netting. The hat is unlined, with an inner hatband of black grosgrain ribbon around the inside lower edge of the crown. A small stitched star on the inner hatband indicates the front of the hat. Designer's label sewn to inner hatband: "Hattie Carnegie / Inc / Custom Made". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39175/
Hat
Hat of black satin with asymmetrical brim upturned at front with faux fur crown. Brim is satin on top with pleating on underside. Label sewn into lining of crown: "Bijou / Paris New York" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39170/
Cloche
Cloche hat of lace and velvet. The deep, domed crown is of peach satin (?) overlaid with a silver metallic lace. At the front of the crown are applied leaf shapes of dark pink velvet that form a fan-motif. The lowest leaves on each side extend to become a shallow brim for the hat, also formed of the dark pink velvet. The leaves and the brim are quilted with metallic silver stitching. The hat is lined in pink satin(?). Label sewn inside crown: "Pittsburgh / Character Hats / New York / Trade Mark Reg. / U.S. Pat. Office" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39174/
Hat
Hat of gray felt. The hemispherical crown has a three-quarter brim of the same felt, curving back to the crown, and forming a roll at edge. The hat is designed to sit back on the head, allowing the front brim to extend vertically. Along the line where crown and brim join is affixed a veil of gray netting, with small "fuzzy" pieces attached at some intersections. Attached to the front of the brim, on the outside of the veil, is an artificial bird made of real brown and green feathers, with a ring of simulated pearls around its neck. The eyes of the bird are simulated pearls. The hat is unlined, with an inner hatband of black grosgrain ribbon along base of crown. Designer's label sewn to inner hatband: "Hattie Carnegie / Inc / Custom Made". Supplier's mark stamped inside crown, consisting of a shield containing a coat of arms and the word "Ruth", with "Made in Czechoslovakia" below the shield. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39176/
Hat
Hat of rust colored felt with folded back brim. Crown encircled in wide brown grosgrain ribbon tied slightly off center in front. Large brown feathers attached at knot on ribbon drape over the crown of the hat and have smaller brown and orange tone feathers and netting at base. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39173/
Bonnet
Bonnet. High domed cylindrical crown is made of artificial material simulating straw or horsehair in a lose weave forming concentric rings. The crown has applied standing bands of the woven material and has applique of flowers and leaves in various colors of velvet. Tied around base of crown is a pink silk band. The wide oval brim is of the same material as the crown, set so that it is wider side-to-side and narrower from front-to-back. The outer edge of the underside of the brim has a lining of pleated blue silk(?) ribbon. The crown of the hat is lined in pink fabric. No labels. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39182/
Hat
Hat of off-white French linen. The soft crown is domed and formed of six segments. Around the base of the crown is a red linen ribbon, threaded through a series of six "belt-loops" spaced around the base of the crown at approximately where the segments join. The slightly stiffened, and quilted in a pattern of concentric circles. The hat is unlined, and has an inner hatband of off-white linen at inside base of crown. Label sewn to inner hatband: "Made in France". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39180/
Parure - Hat, Bracelets, Necklace, Belt
Parure made of natural, brown, and black woven/plaited straw, consisting of: A) Hat. Styled as an oversized calotte (also spelled "calot") or small cloche. The domed crown is constructed of radiating segments of woven/plaited straw in bands of brown, natural/tan, and black. At the top of the crown is a circle of black straw. Slightly scalloped lower edge. Designer's(?) label inside: "Marcelle Biot / 30 Rue de Valois / Paris" and 'Made in France" Three matching bracelets: B) Natural/tan straw bracelet, with a single band of brown straw and a single band of black straw. Black metal clasp. C) Brown straw bracelet, with a single band of black straw and a single band of natural/tan straw. Black metal clasp. D) Black straw bracelet, with single band of brown straw and a single band of natural/tan straw. Black metal clasp. Each bracelet with label: "Made in France". E) Matching necklace of bands of natural/tan straw and brown straw, with thin bands of black straw. Designed as a modified "bib" necklace, wider at center and narrowing to clasp ends. Black metal clasp. F) Matching belt, with lengthwise bands of natural/tan straw and brown straw, with thin bands of black straw. Black straw "buttons" and loops. "Made in France" label. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39138/
Headpiece
Headpiece of moderately muted red orange velour. The covered wire bandeau is designed to be worn over head, encircling ears, and has about thirty velour loops accented with eight randomly tied dangling pendants. Each pendant consists of three silver-colored globular beads and three silver oval beads and one larger white opaque globular glass bead at the end of each pendant. Donor stated that the piece had been worn by the Russian ballet dancer, Anna Pavlova. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39192/
Hat
Hay of gray "horsehair". The crown is of woven gray "horsehair", thin material with concentric thicker bands within. Around the base of the crown is a wide blue velvet ribbon, and on the front of the crown is an arrangement of artificial flowers of velvet in pinks, blues and greens. The wide, oval brim is set off-center, widest at sides, wide at front and very shallow at back. The edge is wired, giving it a "wavy" edge. The hat is unlined, with a wide band of satin ribbon around the inside base of the crown. There are no labels or marks in the hat. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39057/
Cloche
Cloche hat of burnt sienna-colored straw. The high domed crown of woven straw is decorated with flowers and leaves formed by embroidering and couching, but using fine brown and cream cloth rather than thread. The brown fabric flowers have beaded centers. The very narrow brim of matching straw is turned up at front, and edged with brown fabric and bound with dark golden yellow threads. The hat is lined in fine black cloth, through which can be seen the inner stitching of the "embroidery". There are no designer, maker, or retailer labels in the hat. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39115/
Cloche
Cloche hat of beige/dull dusty rose pink rayon faille. The domed crown is crated from a folded/draped and seamed piece of fabric with dark brown braid and light tan and metallic cord. At front of hat is very short brim decorated with brown grosgrain ribbon forming overlapping sections as the ends of a bow. Hat is lined in a red/coral fabric. There are no maker or designer labels or marks in the hat. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39111/
Cloche
Cloche style hat of beige crocheted straw. The rounded crown with tucks and folds is created of beige straw which has been crocheted. Around base of crown is band of dark brown piping. Shallow brim is turned up around sides and back, with wide edge band of brown satin with parallel rows of stitching. Front of brim has radiating ridges worked into straw. Hat is lined with dark beige satin. Designer's label sewn into crown: "Budwig / Ltd." digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39117/
Cloche
Cloche of beige straw. The domed crown is of Milan straw in a small braid. The wide brim is folded up against the hat, and is formed of similar straw work but in concentric bands of beige and darker brown, forming horizontal stripes across the forehead of the hat. Around the base of the crown, visible from sides and back, is a wide band of cream/beige grosgrain ribbon. A pleated "arrow" of the same ribbon is affixed at right temple, extending up and back along the side of the crown. Inside of crown lined in cream/beige fabric. No designer's, maker's, or retailer's labels in item. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39114/
Cloche
Cloche hat of beige straw. The cloche is based on a Phrygian cap, although lacking the forward-pointing section at top. It is of crocheted beige straw thread. The crown is rounded, coming to a gentle point at to, and with sides that extend downwards to cover the ears. At the front is a crescent-shaped panel of printed chiffon which extends back and down sides of hat. The panel is printed with an abstract floral/foliate design in greens, reds, blues, and golds on a beige ground. Outlining the printed design is applied beige and gold cording, which are couched and sewn to the panel. The sides of the hat are embellished with vertical tucks, and the back has sections turned up and sewn to the crown. The hat is lined in a peach satin. Sewn inside crown is brand label: "Sheila / The Perfect Hat". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39119/
Cloche
Cloche hat of beige straw. The high, domed crown is created of fine beige straw which has been crocheted. At the base of the crown is a wide band of beige grosgrain ribbon edged with a very thin ribbon band, with a finely pleated section to one side. The cloche has a small brim, mostly down-turned. Over the entire crown and brim is sewn thin "ribbon" bands in a different type and shade of straw, forming several large leaf forms and filling the rest of the space with scrolling decoration. The interiors of the leaf forms are hand-painted in blue, purple, brown and green. The interior of the crown is lined in a tan/copper fabric, and the underside of the brim is lined in a cream fabric. There are no labels in the hat. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39116/
Coat
Coat of floral brocade and blue velvet. The mid-length wrap coat is made of Jacquard woven silk(?)in a pattern of flowers in blues, taupe, and browns on a dark brown ground, with metallic gold stitching throughout. The raglan sleeves and the collar are edged in wide bands of gathered ruched aqua blue/green velvet. Center front opening with no closures. The coat is lined in aqua blue/green velvet. No labels in garment. Owned by Mrs. Carlton L. Yager of California, aunt of the donor, who called it her "Opera Coat". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30232/
Evening Coat
Evening coat of black and gold brocade in a large scale tropical motif. The wrap-style coat has a shawl collar of red fox fur with kimono style sleeves trimmed in fox. The coat is fully lined in gold silk velvet. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc29997/
Hat
Black nylon hat. Domed, cylindrical crown has an irregularly-shaped brim, very narrow at left side, extending out and down in back, very wide and turning up in a triangular section at right side, and extending outwards at front. The turned-up section is embellished with simulated jet beading in a stylized floral pattern. The hat is lined in black nylon. Stamped inside crown: "Patricia / Model Hats / New York and Paris" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39072/
Hat
Hat of gray velvet. The domed crown is made from six segments of gray velvet, sewn in bands extending from front to back. The brim, of matching felt, is set off-center to the crown, giving more brim in front than back. The front of the brim turns up somewhat, and has an embellishment of long dark brown feathers extending along the brim from a dark brown velvet bow set on the underside of the brim. The hat is lined in a bronze brown crepe, and has an inner hatband of brown grosgrain ribbon along the inside lower edge of the crown. A small contrasting stitch on the inner hatband indicates the front of the hat. Designer's/Retailer's label sewn to inner hatband: "Made to order hat / Bergdorf / Goodman / Fifth Ave at 58th" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39179/
Dress
Child’s "Flower Girl" dress made from pieces of Irish lace. Knee-length, the dress has a round neckline and short sleeves which are slit along the lower 7 1/2" of length. The lower part is slightly A-line with scalloped lower edge, and has one horizontal section mid-way between waist and hem made to have a ribbon threaded through. The center back opening has a 7 1/2" slit at neckline, and a single snap closure. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc461883/
Handbag
Handbag. Rectangular silver art deco openwork frame set with tiny marcasites and circular cabochon black stones (onyx?). Bag is of black silk velvet. Handle of black silk velvet with two silver rings set with marcasites. Lined with dusty pink ribbed silk, and containing a small rectangular mirror. Marked on frame: "MD" in a square; Diamond shaped mark with an M over a K; and an illegible shield-shaped punch. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30047/
Cloche
Cloche hat of royal blue velvet and silver lace. The cylindrical crown is of royal blue velvet, slightly domed and slightly "crushed". The top panel of the crown is of silver lace over a dark fabric. Around the sides of the crown, nearer the top than the base, is a horizontal band of the same silver lace. The shallow brim is constructed of the royal blue velvet and overlaid with the silver lace, which extends beyond the edge of the velvet. The crown is lined in a cream/iridescent satin; most of the underside of the brim is lined with blue velvet. Maker's label embroidered to center inner lining panel of crown: [pseudo coat of arms] "The Denver Dry Goods Co. / Paris New York / Denver", with small embroidered "FRONT" indicating the front of the hat. Retailer's label sewn to inner side of crown: "Parisian / Abilene, Tex." digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39107/