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  Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
 Decade: 1900-1909
 Collection: Texas Fashion Collection
Handbag

Handbag

Date: 1900/1909
Creator: unknown
Description: Handbag. Rectangular frame of cast openwork brass floral designs with traces of gilding. Ball and snap closure and gilt brass suspension chain. Bag is of dark purple crocheted silk, with three different types of beading. Area at frame is plain all-over beading of purple/bronze iridescent cut beads. Below this, and at bottom of bag is fringe of looped beading. The main body of the bag has vertical stripes of beads arranged in horizontal rows. Lined with bright purple silk, trimmed in gold cording. Contains a small gold kid leather purse embossed with a stylized thorn pattern.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Hat

Hat

Date: 1900/1910
Creator: unknown
Description: Hat of off-white silk over straw base. The crown slightly rounded at top, covered in off-white silk, with ruching and folds around side. Affixed to sides of crown at various points are artificial flowers of various colors of velvet. The medium-width brim is circular, of woven straw, originally covered with off-white silk, now mostly perished. The inside of the crown is lined in off-white muslin, partly shattered, and the underside of the brim was originally lined in white silk, now mostly perished. There are no labels or marks in the hat.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Boots

Boots

Date: 1900/1909
Creator: unknown
Description: Pair of lady's boots of black leather and wool broadcloth. The "high button shoes" are designed with pointed toes gently rounded at tips. The lower part, including vamp, are of black leather. The upper part is of black wool broadcloth edged at scalloped top with black leather, and with black leather accent band running from heel partly up the back of the boot. The boots lace up along the front with 20 holes. Lined at top with reddish/orange fabric, the body of the shoe lined in white fabric. High heels are rounded at sides and back, flaring slightly to base, and curved at front. Black leather soles. Stamped notation inside: "3 1/2 B R251"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Shoes

Shoes

Date: 1901/1909
Creator: unknown
Description: Pair of lady's boots or "High Button Shoes" of dark brown kid leather. The shoes, designed with pointed toes, lace closed along center front with laces 18 holes high. Medium height heels styled as a modified boulevard or Louis heel, with rounded sides and back, tapering to base, and with curved front section. Sole of black leather. Partially illegible notation stamped inside on lining: "050 8186K 6"(?)
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Pumps

Pumps

Date: 1900
Creator: unknown
Description: Pair of lady's dancing pumps of red kid leather. The shoes, designed with gently pointed toes, are of soft red fine kid leather leather with a square-ended flap at vamp/instep, and applied red satin bow at vamp. The inner sole of the shoe is a dark red quilted satin. The low heels are styled as a modified boulevard or Louis heel, with rounded sides and back, flaring to base, and straight across at front. Heels covered with matching leather. Sole of black leather at heel and tan on rest of shoe. Stamped in sole on one shoe: "2", on other: "4".
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Hat

Hat

Date: 1900/1910
Creator: unknown
Description: Hat of silk. The off-white silk crown is domed, with excess fabric forming a ruched band around the lower part of the crown. The front and sides of the crown are embellished with embroidery and needlework of large flowers and foliage in white. Around the base of the crown is a band of white grosgrain ribbon, with rosette and trailing ribbons at side. The medium-width oval brim is of white silk over stiffened mesh framework, with outer band formed by openwork stitching. The brim is set off-center to the crown, extending the farthest from side to side, and with more brim in front than at back. The underside of the brim is faced with black velvet. The hat is lined in white silk, now shattering. There are no labels or marks in the hat.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Boots

Boots

Date: 1900/1910
Creator: Healthways (USA)
Description: Pair of boots or "High Button Shoes" of black leather. The shoes, designed with rounded pointed toes, lace closed along center front with laces 16 holes high. The low, stacked heels are rounded at sides and back, and are curved at front. The sole is of black leather. Shoes are lined in black leather and off-white cloth. The base of the heel is of black rubber(?) with molded grips. Manufacturer's mark molded into heel: "[Image of a walking man] / Healthway / USA". Stamped into sole: "Combination / Last" Handwritten notation on lining: "4/1/6 18261* / 51|23"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Wedding Shoes

Wedding Shoes

Date: 1902
Creator: unknown
Description: Wedding shoes of off-white leather. The shoes have pointed toes, and a "Mary-Jane" style strap across the instep which secures with a domed opalescent button. At throat of each shoe is a rectangular ornamental buckle covered with matching leather. The medium-high heel tapers slightly to the base and is covered with matching leather on the rounded sides and back; it has the same natural brown colored leather on the heel's curved inside and on the soles of the shoes. Retail's label stamped inside one shoe: "Sanger Bros. / Dallas Texas" Stamped inside both shoes on leather upper: "36-2 68082" The shoes are accompanied by a shoe bag of tan colored raw silk with a Japanese character style embroidery motif of blue silk worked in satin stitch. Worn by Jessie Knapp Nunnally of San Angelo, TX, at her wedding in 1902.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Mourning Ensemble - Bodice and Skirt

Mourning Ensemble - Bodice and Skirt

Date: 1900/1903
Creator: unknown
Description: Black silk mourning ensemble consisting of bodice and skirt. The bodice of black silk is fitted and boned, with a high, standing black silk band collar with appliqued black lace medallions. It has full-length, modified bishop sleeves that gather into the armseye. Below the gathered cap, in the portion corresponding to the upper arm, the fullness of the sleeve is controlled with top-stitched vertical tucks. From the elbow to the cuff the fullness is again released in a bishop sleeve silhouette. The sleeves gather again into wide black silk cuffs with appliqued black lace medallions and four narrow bands of black velvet ribbon. The bodice front is constructed on the lines of a bolero jacket, with a deep V-shaped opening and wide ruffled collar which is constructed of horizontally tucked black crepe-patterned silk. The released fullness of the tucking creates the ruffled finish. The ruffled portion is edged with two narrow bands of black velvet ribbon. The bodice front has a bib fill of gathered black silk and tulle net that is secured with hook-and-eyes beneath the left collar overlay. The fill area disguises the true front opening which is secured with thirteen hook-and-eyes. The main body of the bodice, ...
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Shoes

Shoes

Date: 1900~
Creator: unknown
Description: None
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Boots

Boots

Date: 1905~
Creator: unknown
Description: Pair of lady's boots or "High Button Shoes" of light blue leather and yellow suede. The lower section of the shoes, designed with pointed toes, are of pale blue polished leather. The upper sections, of yellow suede, close along sides with small mother of pearl(?) buttons, 12 buttons high. Medium/high heels styled as a modified boulevard or Louis heel, with rounded sides and back, flaring to base, and with curved front section. Thin silver-colored metal edge/band just above cap of heel. Sole of tan leather. Handwritten inside: "242 / G3064"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Picture Hat

Picture Hat

Date: 1900/1910
Creator: Georgette, Mme
Description: Picture hat of black straw. The hat has a broad brim of woven black straw with an upturned outer edge which is trimmed in black velvet. The low, domed crown is also of woven black straw, with a band of black ostrich feathers around the base of the crown. One large ostrich feather plume attached to base of crown and extends out and over the back of the brim. Inside crown is black cloth lining. Sewn inside crown is black cloth label: "Mme Georgette / 11 Rue Scribe / Paris"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Fan

Fan

Date: 1900/1950
Creator: unknown
Description: Folding fan. Thin polished wood or bamboo guards lacquered a dark mahogany. The thin sticks are dyed purple. Paper leaf with hand-painted abstract design of flowers and foliage on a reddish ground. Metal bail. Reverse is unadorned. No visible labels or marks. Gift of Mrs. Arthur Kramer, Sr., from the original Dallas Musuem of Fashion collection.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Hat

Hat

Date: 1904
Creator: unknown
Description: Hat of dull golden horsehair mesh over wire framework. Cylindrical crown widening to base of horsehair constructed in a spiral, on wire armature. Side of crown with wide black velvet band with self bow at back. Slightly oval brim of same horsehair set so sides are wider than front or back. Brim slopes slightly from crown to outer rim, with thin wire framework to retain shape. Attached at sides are sprays of artificial flowers and leaves. Underside of brim lined with gathered extremely fine pale chiffon. Crown has inner rigid structure that extends below brim, creating a "support" that rests on wearer's head. Exterior of inner structure lined with black velvet, inner lining of white fabric with "drawstring" center gather. No labels or tags.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Wedding Shoes

Wedding Shoes

Date: 1901
Creator: C.A. Verner Co. (Pittsburgh, PA)
Description: Pair of ladies' white heavy satin wedding shoes. Designed with pointed toes, the shoes have a fastening strap across instep with a single domed opalescent/milky white glass button. Across vamp is applied white satin bow with decorative gilt metal rectangular buckle with lobed ends. One buckle missing. Lined in white fabric. Sole of natural brown leather, heel covered in white satin. Medium-height heel with rounded sides and back, curving inwards and then flaring out to base, similar to a Louis heel. Stamped inside shoe in gilt: "C.A. Verner / Pittsburgh" Worn by Bess McChord (1874-1903) at her wedding to Clifford Dunnells, January 1, 1901.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Wedding Shoes

Wedding Shoes

Date: 1907
Creator: unknown
Description: Pair of white kid ladies' shoes. Styled with pointed-toes, the white kid leather upper has a vamp decorated with geometric and stylized foliate designs in crystal beads. The shoes secure across instep with single ribbon tie on each, creating a "peep" just above toes. Lined in white leather. Natural brown leather sole. Heel is of medium height, rounded at back and tapering slightly to base. Similar to what would become a Cuban heel. Maker's code stamped inside: "35-C 3021" Worn by Norma Tiemann at her marriage to Val L. Lehmann in Brenham, Texas in 1907.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Shoes

Shoes

Date: 1908/1910
Creator: Drew Shoe Company (Portsmouth, Ohio)
Description: Pair of lady's shoes of brown leather. The shoes, designed with gently pointed toes, are of the Oxford style of brown leather with openwork at sides of instep and with laced closure at instep of 4 holes height. The medium height heels are styled as a modified Cuban or continental heel, with rounded sides and back, tapering to base, and slightly curved at front. The heels covered with matching leather. Sole of tan leather, with rubber/composite on heel. Stamped in lining on one shoe: "Arch Rest / Drew / Portsmouth. O." Stamped into lining of shoe: "8 1/2 AAA 75537 / 6003" Stamped on inner sole: "[drawing of arrow] INTERIOR / DREW / [illeg]CK REST" Tooled into inner sole at heel: "SNUG-FITTING / HEEL" Molded into rubber of heel: "Biltrite"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Shoes

Shoes

Date: 1908/1910
Creator: unknown
Description: Pair of lady's shoes of black leather and gray suede. The shoes, designed with pointed toes, are of black leather on toe box, and gray suede on heel, back, and strap across instep, which closes with button on outside of foot. Medium high heels are covered in matching suede and are styled as a modified boulevard or Louis heel, with rounded sides and back, and with curved front section. Sole of black leather. Retailer's stamp on sole: "MacDougall & Southwick Co. / Seattle, Wash." Hand-written notation on lining: "40 00 20704"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Sunbonnet

Sunbonnet

Date: 1900/1909
Creator: unknown
Description: Sunbonnet of off-white calico cotton with a tiny repeated print of three stylized leaves in brown. The brim of the hat is quilted in L-shaped rows of stitching and is very stiff from starch and stiffening material within it. The crown is gathered along the entire length of the seam where it attaches to the brim. The crown and tail are formed from a single piece of fabric, and the tail is stitched flat to the lower sides of brim. The neck is adjustable, having outer neck ties stitched to the lower corners of the brim on both sides. The chin ties are of the same fabric, with unfinished edges. The long tail on the bonnet indicates that it was used as a field bonnet. The TFC thanks Rebecca Jumper Matheson for her research on this object.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Boots

Boots

Date: 1900
Creator: unknown
Description: Pair of boots or "High Button Shoes" of gray/silver lamé cloth. The shoes, designed with pointed toes rounded at the tips, lace closed along center front with laces 18 holes high. The high heels are rounded at sides and back, tapering to center and flaring back out at base, and are curved at front. They are covered with the lamé fabric on the back and sides. The sole is of tan and brown leather, as is the cap on the heel. Shoes are lined in off-white cloth. Hand-written notation on inside lining, partly illegible: "37 / .... / 911"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Hat

Hat

Date: 1905
Creator: unknown
Description: Little girl's Easter bonnet. Wired base with mushroom type top of black velvet and double ruffled brim of white lace. Small pink roses and green stems encircle hat above lace brim.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Bonnet

Bonnet

Date: [1900..1909]
Creator: unknown
Description: Child's poke-type bonnet of white silk. Completely shirred and trimmed with white satin ribbon, outlined with lace. High crown to which circular shirred flange has been added. Label inside crown mostly illegible; last word is "Chicago".
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Boots

Boots

Date: 1900
Creator: unknown
Description: Pair of lady's boots or "High Button Shoes" of black and tan leather. The lower section of the shoes, designed with pointed toes, are of black leather. The upper sections, of tan leather, close along center front with laces, 17 holes high. Medium/high heels styled as a modified boulevard or Louis heel, with rounded sides and back, flaring to base, and with curved front section. Sole of black and tan leather. Stamped on sole: "TEDCO / Trade Mark" Stamped on lining: "435 72307 4" and "Tedco"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Beaded Bag

Beaded Bag

Date: 1900/1920
Creator: unknown
Description: Handbag. Rectangular bronze frame chased with scrolling floral forms. Ball/snap closure and bronze chain. Body of purse of off-white woven cloth covered in beaded design of red, pink, green, black, and white in an American Indian or possibly Caucasian motifs. Originally lined in pink silk. Frame is marked "Germany".
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design