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  Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
 Collection: Texas Fashion Collection
Shoes
Dress shoe of mint green satin. 2" heel. 'King Louis' style pumps. Pointed toe. Ornament on vamp with embroidery of a pink rose and green foliage on yellow background. Markings: Left- "Pietro / Last / Neiman Marcus" Right- "Neiman Marcus" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc277081/
Hatlet
Hatlet covered in white cotton pique fabric. Hatlet has two supports over back of head to bow on back. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc277013/
Pumps
No Description digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc277019/
Calotte
Hat of purple satin. The hat is styled as a calotte (also spelled "calot") of purple satin with cluster of purple violets and an orchid of velvet. With a purple net veil. Lined in purple satin with a dark blue/purple grosgrain inner hatband. Accompanied by two short hatpins with matching purple velvet covered heads. Designer's label inside: "Lilyan / Originals" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc277087/
Hat
Hat of fine cream straw. The rounded crown is encircled at lower edge by wide pleated band of organdy in graduated shades of pink, tied at right side, with ends extending below the brim. The narrow brim turns up at front and left side, and down at back and right side. Hat is unlined, with inner cream grosgrain ribbon hatband. Designer's label: "Maureen / B-Way - At 89th N.Y.C." digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc277028/
Hat
Hat of natural straw. Designed with aspects of both a picture hat and a "coolie" hat, it has a domed crown encircled at base with band of light blue grosgrain ribbon with bow at back. The wide brim curves down to light blue ribbon binding at edge. Unlined, with white grosgrain ribbon inner hatband. Label inside: "Henri's / Dallas" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc277054/
Hat
Hat of black, white, red, and ocher silk styled as a Garrison Cap (aka Side Cap, or Wedge Cap). Influenced by military headgear, this hat is constructed as a flat envelope, which opens along long edge to form a wedge-shaped crown. The cap is dyed in the Shibori technique, forming intricate designs outlined in white and filled in with red or ocher dots. Lined in black silk. Designer's label inside: "3410 Oak Lawn / Bernie A. Cahn / Dallas, Tex." digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc277011/
Hat
Hat of green felt in the style of a tricorne or cocked hat. Trimmed with green silk roses, brown feathers, a brass buckle on right side and bow on back. Lined in black with central "drawstring". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc277091/
Breton Hat
Modified Breton hat of natural straw cloth with beige grosgrain ribbon as hatband and around edge of crown. Lined in cream colored satin. Designer's label: "Jan Leslie / Custom Design" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc277052/
Purse
Handbag with cast and chased silver frame decorated with openwork figures of children harvesting grapes. Ball/snap closure. Silver suspension chain of alternating oval links and links formed of three flower-heads. Bag is oval shaped, black wool with petite point embroidery decoration on each side of a bouquet of trumpet shaped flowers. Pink satin lining. Hallmarked "800" on frame. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc277033/
Hatlet
Hatlet of multi-colored feathers. The hat is formed as a low, head-hugging dome of brown felt. This crown is completely covered with featherwork in various colors, including dyed green, red, yellow and natural brown quail(?), black and white, blue and white, and gray and white feathers. At one side is a bow of stiffened green and red velvet. The hat is unlined, with a brown grosgrain ribbon inner hatband. The hat is accompanied by two short hatpins, the heads covered with small squares of red velvet. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc277039/
Pumps
Pair of grey crocodile skin pumps with rectangular pewter buckles across instep. Maker's stamp: "Merli / Bologna" Retailer's stamp: "Made in Italy for / Neiman-Marcus" Also stamped: "Hand Sewn" and "Made in Italy" Handwritten inside: "46133-IMI / m 7 B" and "N. Park 18" On sole of each: "7 / B" and "All Leather Shoe" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc277065/
Belly Dancer's Costume - Banjara Peoples of India
Belly Dancer's Costume - Banjara Peoples of India A) Choli (top) - Sleeved, backless top. Deep V-neckline. Short sleeves. Patchwork, using various types, colors, and patterns of fabric. Panels at sides, bottom, and upper breasts/lower front shoulders of rows of various sized mirrors framed in different color stitching. Ties in back. Lined in various fabrics. B) Ghaghra (skirt) - Ankle-length skirt made of horizontal bands of various fabrics. From top: Green waistband; Yellow band with red stitched "X" forms; Wide band of three rows of small circular mirrors framed in various colors of cloth, the bands divided by a blue and an orange stripe of cloth with stitched "X" forms; Thin green band with red stitches; Very thin white strip; Pink stripe with center band of yellow/green running across it; Narrow band of various-colored fabric in slightly wavy profile; Black band with center band of various color stitching; White crenelated band; purple band; Wide green section with center wide red stripe with yellow borders; Wide hem with various embroidered bands and stitching. Lined in red fabric with light yellow printed paisley design. Slit at side, tie at waistband. C) Necklace. Yarn/cord necklace. Ball/loop closure at back. Back part of necklace covered with tightly wound spiral of tiny red/purple beads. Necklace has 7 pendants of graduated sizes composed of silver-colored coins with attached loops and with attached hanging loops from which are suspended small silver spheres. Between each coin pendant is a tubular silver spacer bead. Coins are from India, of several denominations, one dated 1984, one dated 1985, others with dates obscured. No maker's marks or hallmarks visible. Measurements: 21 3/4" long D) Necklace. Long, narrow corded/twined black necklace with central openwork beaded "zig-zag" line of tiny beads in groups of red, yellow, green, red, blue, green, and orange, with white beads at the "points" of the zig zags. Attached to lower edge of necklace is a "fringe" of various coins mounted with silver rectangular bars. Coins are from Afghanistan (20th century), Pakistan (dated 1981 and 1982), and Iran (reign of Shah Muhammad Reza Pahlavi, from 1970's). No maker's marks or hallmarks visible. Measurements: 21 3/4" long Not shown in photographs are: E) Upper-arm band of maroon cotton/linen. Rectangular, with pink, green, and gold embroidery and 4 large circular mirror appliques with orange, green, and yellow borders along length, and two small circular mirrors with orange borders at one end. 7 large cast silver-colored metal pendant beads along lower edge. Cloth tie at each corner. 3 1/4" wide x 12 3/4" long. No labels or tags. F) Upper-arm band of maroon cotton/linen. Rectangular, with pink, green, and gold embroidery and 4 large circular mirror appliques with orange, green, and yellow borders along length, and two small circular mirrors with orange borders at one end. 7 large cast silver-colored metal openwork triangular pendants along lower edge. Cloth tie at each corner. 3 1/4" wide x 12 3/4" long. No labels or tags. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc277035/
Festival Attire - Akha Hill Tribe
Festival ensemble, Akha Hill Tribe, Thailand. a) Jacket/bodice. Jacket or bodice of black cotton, waist-length, with no collar, shaped neckline, and front opening with no closures. On right side of bodice at upper breast/collarbone is applied panel/section which forms edge of opening. Panel has "zig-zag" effect of three points created by patchwork of various printed fabrics and applied thin bands. Long sleeves with blue fabric sewn at ends to create cuffs. At back, "hanging" from collar is patchwork panel of patterned cloths shaped as a trapezoid with curved long side. Primarily lined in blue cloth with white geometric/linear designs, part of embroidery panel at front lined with a printed brown fabric with small black/yellow geometric design. (zig-zag panel at front) b) Pants. Pants of black cotton embellished with multicolored embroidery. Full-length depending on height of wearer. Wide plain waistband in front, elasticized section at back, and with attached string belt at side which has pom-pom terminals. At front, from waistband, are two "flaps" over upper legs, one forming a pocket with wide decorative band at top consisting of red strips of fabric on dark blue fabric band. The second flap has wide horizontal band of embroidered fabric, with bands of diamonds, squares, "x" shapes, etc. in yellow, blue, white, black, etc. on primarily orange ground. Cuffs of pants, at outer side of each leg, has rectangular applied panels of cross-stitch embroidered fabric in reddish, white, and mustard, with applied machine-woven decorative ribbon with pink squares and blue shapes. Unlined. No labels or tags in garment. c) Hat. Black with beading and silver and shells, with red decorations and pendant parts d) Belt. Black cotton(?) belt formed as a rectangle, upper and side edges straight, lower edge gently scalloped to form points at center front and at sides. Belt is edged with border of small blue/green, brownish/tan seeds, with two horizontal bands of same seeds running across belt. Between bands of seeds are bands of silver-colored cabochon discs. Just above each point is a star-burst made of oval white beads/seeds, colored beads, and a cowrie(?) shell. From each point hangs 3 beaded pendants with a bell at end of each. Belt secures with black ties. No labels or tags. ca. 35 1/2" long w/out ties; 5" wide w/out fringe/pendants. e & f) Over-sleeves. Detachable sleeves formed as two 15 1/2" long fabric cylinders, slightly wider at top than cuff, which slide over sleeves of jacket. The cylinders are made of horizontal bands of different woven patterned fabrics of primarily pinks with green, white, and orange decorations, sewn together, with alternating bands of red cloth with applied rick-rack in blue, white, green, yellow, pink, etc., each with silver threading. Sleeves are lined with a printed white fabric with blue linear stripe/band designs. No labels or tags in garment. g) Bag of black cotton, embellished with embroidery, bead-work, silver discs, and a single coin. Long black cotton strap. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc277094/
Hat
Pillbox hat of navy blue velvet with bow like trims of self-fabric. Open crown with navy veil over top and front. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc277005/
Terno
Traditional Philippine terno ensemble of gold silk and mesh made from rengue, a stiff pineapple fiber material. A) Skirt (Saya) of stiffened gold silk with black lined embroidered circles and wavy black ribbon embellishment. Full-length, with long rectangular train in back. B) Top (camisa) of mesh pineapple fiber. Cropped-length, with wide, full, elbow-length sleeves gathered at armholes. Sleeves with circular embellishments. C) Chemise of pale orange rayon with cutwork and machine embroidery hem and neckline. Sleeveless, full-length. D) Scarf/fichu (alampay) or shawl (Panuelo) of mesh pineapple fiber with circular embellishments. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc277017/
Headband
Headband of black grosgrain braid with black veil extending over front. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc277090/
Breton Hat
Modified Breton style hat of hot pink straw with high crown covered with light blue, pink, gold purple and orange silk. Wide rolled-back brim. Lined. Retailer's label on inside hatband: "Sanger Harris / Dallas" Size tag to left of designer's label. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc277029/
Hat
Hat of straw. Designed in the style of a toque with a deep crown and an under-structure of woven natural flat straw overlaid with a thin bands of plaited yellow natural straw knotted at intervals. Near the base of the crown is a protruding section forming a very thin, high brim. Around the main section of the brim is a coral/salmon pink band of chiffon crepe, tied at back and with trailing ends. Hat is unlined with inner hatband of yellow grosgrain ribbon. Designer's label at inside back: "Original Model / G. Howard Hodge / New York" Retailer's label at inside back: "Jacque-Lynn / Washington, D.C." digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc277066/
Pumps
Pair of pumps of silver fabric. Gently pointed toes, and oval openwork area at top of instep, edged in padded gold kid leather with stripe extending from oval to tip of toe. Low chunky hee tapering slightly to base, covered in same fabric. Brand stamped inside: "Erica" Retailer's label stamped inside: "Neiman Marcus" Handwritten inside: "7 1/2 B A12003 / 68633-3A" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc277089/
Hat
Hat of red straw. High, rounded crown somewhat like a cloche, surmounted by a ball of same red straw. Roughly oval brim, turning up towards edge, higher in front than back. Brim and base of crown edged with thin band of red grosgrain(?) ribbon. Unlined. Inner hatband of red grosgrain ribbon. Designer's label inside at inner hatband: "Oleg Cassini" Union Label inside. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc277097/
Hanbok
Traditional Korean child's Hanbok ensemble of rayon damask. A) Wrap dress (Chima) of red large floral damask with with red net "suspenders", and ties of red satin. B) Jacket-like upper garment (Jeogori) of green large floral rayon damask. Cropped, square neckline that wraps at bust with long red ties. Long sleeves with stripes of red, green, yellow, pink, blue, and white with red printed symbols. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc277043/
Hanbok
Korean Hanbok. A) Jeogori (Jacket) of white and red damask patterned with floral motifs. Short, cropped white damask top with deep V neckline lined in red damask. Long sleeves, widening towards fore-arm and then curved to wrist. Under-arm area and cuff of the red damask. Center front opening secured with one hidden snap and two long ties of red damask. Lined in thin white fabric. No labels in garment. B) Chima (Skirt) of red damask matching the Jeogori. Full-length, wrap-style garment. Thin white straps to go over shoulders support wide upper band into which the body of the skirt is gathered. Ties at back with ties of red damask. Lined in dark red fabric. No labels in garment. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc277082/
Evening Shoes
Pair of evening shoes of gold metallic lace. Designed with a rounded toe, the shoes have uppers of mesh embroidered with gold wire to create a lace with scrolling forms throughout. Uppers with scalloped upper edge. 2" heel of white leather, tapering to base. Stamped inside: "DeLiso Debs" Stamped inside: "4 1/2B 31521 2 / 90 760-81" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc277059/
Purse
Handbag of black silk faille with multicolored floral embroidery. Purse has round, gold frame in leaf motif and plunger closure. Gold chain handle. Peach lining with pocket. Retailer's label: " Sanger Bros. Inc. / Paris - France" Label above pocket in side of purse: "Made in France" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc277068/
Hatlet
Hatlet of cream satin. The low cap, designed somewhat like a beret, is rounded and flattened, bulging at sides. No brim. At one side is a horizontal spray of fine white feathers extending back along the side of the hat. Inside of hat is lined with a golden satin, and has an off-white grosgrain ribbon inner hatband. Two small plastic combs are attached to inner sides of hat to help secure it to wearer's head. Designer's label inside crown: "Neiman-Marcus / Made to Order" A price tag is attached to inner hatband, originally $7.50, reduced to 75 cents. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc277040/
Hat
Hat of black vinyl and black straw. The cylindrical crown is of black vinyl, flattened at top. The black straw brim is set off-center to crown, turned up at outside edge to create high outer edge. Set at back edge of upturned brim is a bow of black grosgrain ribbon. Lined in black fabric, and with a black grosgrain ribbon inner hatband. Label sewn to inner hatband: "Skywood / original" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc277060/
Purses
Handbag of bronze, brass and aqua metal beads in floral pattern. Rectangular shape, Art Nouveau silver frame with white and green enamel with red, blue, and light green cabochons. Filigree snap closure has large, circular green cabochon. Fringe of self with ends finished in clusters of 3 brass beads. Double chain handle can be worn as single to extend handle longer. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc277063/
Purse
Coin purse in circular shape of glass beads shades of white and light blue. Rose flower design in center. Semicircular brass frame and ball twist closure. Trimmed with black bead loop and 5mm crystal on bottom. Pink rope handle. Cream colored cloth lining. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc277006/
Pumps
Pair of heeled pumps of faux leopard fur. The shoes are designed with gently squared toes. Across vamp is wide leather band covered with same faux fur. The heel is covered with same fur, and tapers to base. Designer's label: "herbert levine" Retailer's label: "Amen Wardly / El Paso Texas" Written inside: "7 1/2 M / 35254" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc277004/
Shirt
Shirt of red rayon, designed as a kimono. Black band at front opening and around neckline, with white Japanese characters printed on upper section at front. The kimono has a scene of a procession by children in traditional Japanese clothing, one on horseback. At upper back is a circular printed Mon in blue and white of a trefoil leaf form. Unlined. May be a child's kimono rather than a youth's shirt. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc277036/
Pumps
Pair of woman's pumps in champagne satin. Designed with a square toe, the vamp has an applied plaque of same satin on which are mounted brilliant rhinestones of various sizes in horizontal rows. The low heel is covered in same fabric, and tapers slightly to base. Designer's label stamped inside left shoe: "Herbert Levine" Stamped inside right shoe: "Especially for / Ann Wardy" Handwritten note inside shoe: "7 1/2 B / D2490" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc277022/
Shirt
Child's shirt of pink rayon. Designed as a kimono, the shirt has a black band at center front opening which continues along neckline. The body of the garment is printed with multi-colored views of Japanese temples and landscapes. Maker's label inside: "Crown / Made in Japan" Size label: "M / Made in / " [cut off] This may be a child's kimono for the tourist market, rather than a youth's shirt. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc277086/
Garrison Cap
Hat of black and brown suede. Brim-less. Style resembles a garrison cap. Lined in black fabric with black grosgrain ribbon inner headband. Elastic band for securing hat to wearer's head. Designer's label: "Evelyn Varon / Model" Union label at left of designer's label. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc277020/
Sailor Hat
Hat in sailor style of red straw with wide flat brim trimmed with 3 big silk roses and small white and pink flowers. Flat crown trimmed with triangular pulls from straw. Red nose veil that ties in back with narrow red velvet ribbon. Hatpin with spherical pink head. Unlined with red grosgrain inner headband. Manufacturer's label: "Mrs. Eugene Gray Inc. / Columbus, Ohio Harbor Springs, Mich" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc277023/
Hat
Hat of fine black balibuntal straw lined with black velvet. Medium high crown with black velvet band typing in large soft bow. Brim uneven, very narrow in back, widening at sides and fullest at left front. Headband of black velvet with large bow of same side back. Retailer's label: "Neiman-Marcus" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc277077/
Hat
Hat made from white straw. The high, cylindrical, slightly domed crown flares out slightly at bottom into an asymmetrical brim. The hat is composed of bands of 10 strands of straw that are twined and platted and woven into shape. Decorating the hat are applied small 4-petaled silk flowers placed all over. At side is a thin bow of white grosgrain ribbon. Unlined, but with an inner white grosgrain ribbon hatband. Sewn into the inner ribbon band is retailer's label, "Saks Fifth Avenue / Millinery Salon". Sewn to the back of the retailer's label is a Union Label, #DB 995583 digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc277003/
Toque Hat
Toque hat made of brown and beige fur felt with bands of fabric sewn and blocked. Lower band and top of crown in brown with upper band in beige. One safety style pin with two circles of rhinestones and large rhinestone in center as trim. Designer's label sewn inside crown: "Mr. John Jr." digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc277007/
Hat
Hatlet made of black silk taffeta with 5 silk leaves off front of crown and bow of self in back as trim. Black net veil interspersed with chenille balls. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc277069/
Pumps
Pair of heeled pumps of 2-tone beige leather. Designed with slightly pointed toes squared at ends, the main body of the upper is of light beige polished leather, with thin band of holes punched along upper edge. Toebox of darker beige leather with punched hole band and "pinked" edge at join, and a design of punched holes across top. Heel area of same darker beige leather, with same band of holes and "pinking" edge at join. Heel tapers to base. Designer's label inside: "Selby" Stamped inside: "Leather upper man made / trims, other parts / man made materials / [D in a circle] 9 D/B 42673C 23" Stamped on sole: "Made in U.S.A." Measurements: L: 25 cm. W: 8 cm. H: 12 cm. Heel: 6 cm, 2.5 inches digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc277044/
Toque Hat
Hat in toque style of black and tan rough straw. Braids of straw interwoven. Lined in black net. Retailer's label on inside headband: "Montaldo's" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc277073/
Hat
Hat of natural straw. The conical hat has a rounded top, and a "waist" part way down where the curve of the hat changes. The entire hat is overlaid with bands of colored raffia (blue; white; yellow; orange; dark blue; purple; and green) extending from the top of the crown to the brim. From the top of the hat extends a tassel/streamers of the same strands of raffia. Unlined, with white inner hatband, and a white string attached to help secure hat to wearer's head. Label attached to back of crown: "Made in Japan" Written on inner headband in blue marker: "77 [illeg]" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc277037/
Toque Hat
a) Toque of red/orange and yellow print wool. Two hatpins with spherical heads covered in material matching toque and head scarf. Lined in white with "Mr John" pattern in gold. Designer' label on inside hatband with rhinestone studded, tabbed ends: "Mr. John" b) Scarf of matching material with large square of lattice work crochet netting of red/orange in middle of scarf to provide veiled effect. Designer's label: "Mr. John" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc277084/
Calotte
Hat of very pale green felt and beading. The hat is styled as a calotte (also spelled "calot"), with slightly shaped crown embellished with scattered transparent gray beads, pearl beads, and rhinestones. Unlined. Inner hatband of black grosgrain ribbon. Label sewn to inner hatband: "Henrys / Dallas Henrys has been identified alternately as maker or retailer. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc277053/
Hat
Hatlet of three black velvet rings over black net embellished with rhinestones. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc277079/
Pumps
Pair of woman's shoes of pearlized plastic fabric. Designed with a squared toe, the shoes are lined in silver leather, and have square heels covered in same silver leather. Designer's label in left shoe: "Herbert Levine" Retailer's label in right shoe: "Amen Wardy / El Paso Texas" Handwritten note inside shoe: "7 1/2 M / 26753" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc277067/
Capulet Hat
Capulet style hat of red silk faille with 3 folds of self on either side. Red, slightly stiffened nose veil. Designers label: "MR. JOHN" Measurements: (Veil not included in measurements) L: 13 cm W: 49 cm H: 11 cm digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc277080/
Calotte
Hat of sequins and beading. The hat is styled as a calotte (also spelled "calot") with shaped crown covered in iridescent sequins of light blues, with a large flower-head on either side embellished with pale blue and white sequins, gray bead, and pearls. The petals of the flowers extend below edge of crown. Overlaid with pale blue light mesh veil. Lined in lace. Designer's label inside: "A / Frances & Walter Nelkin / Hat", with a red sequin sewn in each upper corner of label. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc277046/
Evening Shoes
Pair of evening shoes of purple satin. Designed with pointed toes, the shoes have three paired rhinestone-set stripes running across the toes: the first with a stripe of black and yellow, the second with a stripe of black and red, the third with a stripe of black and green. High spike heel covered in matching purple satin. Maker's mark stamped inside: "Herbert Levine" Retailer's label stamped inside: "Neiman-Marcus" Handwritten inside: "4B 7889 H9913-4LR" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc277061/
Calotte Hat
Calotte style hat of black cabochons and bugle beads. Black velvet piping at edges. Lined in black netting. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc277099/