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Partner:
UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Decade:
1950-1959
Collection:
Texas Fashion Collection
- Hat
- Hat of white straw with red velvet and net trim. The domed crown of the hat is formed of three sections of white straw, two hemispheres overlapping a central band running front to back. Around the base of the crown is a wide red velvet ribbon with bow and trailing ends at back. Over the ribbon and brim is a fine red netting/veiling with scattered tiny white "blossoms" affixed to the netting/veiling. The flat, narrow brim turns under at the edge to create a double-thick edge. The inside of the crown has an off-white grosgrain inner hatband. Retailer's label sewn to inner hatband: "Neiman-Marcus / Dallas". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc38059/
- Hat
- Hat of tan Balibuntal (Ballibuntl)straw trimmed with ribbon and greenery. The domed crown is of light tan Balibuntal straw, encircled with a wide pink satin ribbon with bow at front. The bow and front of the hat are accented with artificial leaves and stems. The irregular tan Balibuntal straw brim is set off-center to the crown, with undulating edge, with quadruple row of stitching at outer edge. The inside of the crown has an inner hatband of tan/off-white grosgrain ribbon. Designer's/Retailer's label sewn to inner hatband: "Made to order hat / Bergdorf / Goodman / Fifth Ave at 58th" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc38056/
- Hat
- Hat of gray felt. The domed crown is constructed with the the outline of a rounded square, with attached stiffened double-brim, which turns up on all sides, forming a point at front and at sides, but rounded in back. At the back of the hat the brim extends downwards, forming a point. The hat is unlined, and edged with a black grosgrain ribbon inner hatband. A small stitched star on the hatband indicates the front of the hat. Visible behind the ribbon in one section is the woven straw backing used to stiffen the brim. Designer's label inside crown, sewn to ribbon band: "Hattie Carnegie / Custom Made" Stamped inside crown on felt: Circular mark containing a logo of three rabbits and partly missing word "... URLAP", and below logo ".... en France". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc38028/
- Hatlet
- Hatlet of black fabric. Hatlet in calot (also spelled "calotte") style, formed of black fabric woven with fine shiny black plastic strips. Resembles a kerchief tied around the head, with wide band with scalloped lower edge and oval openings at top, with "bow" at back of same material. All edges trimmed with black plastic beading. The crown is lined in black mesh and edged at with black grosgrain ribbon. Two plastic combs are attached inside the crown to secure hat to wearer's head. Designer's label inside crown: "Bes-Ben / Made in Chicago". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc38029/
- Hatlet
- Hatlet of straw and velvet. Formed as a modified X-shaped skullcap, the hatlet is made of woven straw with white straw warp and gold ribbon weft, edged in a narrow ribbon of light tan velvet. At the center of the crown is applied pair of bows of the same velvet ribbon. Evidence of fine brown veiling, now gone. Interior of crown lined in taupe mesh and edged with taupe gros-grain ribbon. Attached at either side is a small plastic comb to secure hat to wearer's head. Designer's label inside crown: "Bes-Ben / Made in Chicago". Gift of Mr. John C. Murphy, through the Chicago Historical Society. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc38075/
- Hatlet
- Hatlet of navy blue wool with embroidery and mirrors. Base of hatlet formed of an irregularly-shaped skullcap of dark navy blue wool decorated with embroidered lines, bands, etc. in red, yellow, and white. Over the surface of the fabric are small 1.5 cm. diameter mirrors in pink and red stitched borders. All edges are trimmed in gray/purple beads. Surmounting the hatlet are three bows of the same materials, and the whole is overlaid with fine dark blue veiling. Hatlet is lined in dark blue mesh and edged underneath with dark blue grosgrain ribbon. Attached to either side is a small plastic comb to secure the hatlet to wearer's head. Designer's label: "Bes-Ben / Made in Chicago". Gift of John C. Murphy, through the Chicago Historical Society. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc38071/
- Hatlet
- Hatlet in calot style of navy straw. The hat is formed of a circle of navy blue straw over stiffened netting, with 4 protruding points at the front of the hat and two rounded protruding lobes at back. It is edged with three rows of navy blue plastic tubing. At the front of the hat are four pairs of large plastic pearlized buttons with clear crystal beads between affixed to the pointed sections with ties of navy blue plastic tubing. Over the hat is a navy blue veil to which is attached scattered groups of pieces of navy blue plastic tubing. Inner hatband of dark blue/black grosgrain ribbon, to which are attached two small plastic combs combs to secure hat to wearer's head. Sewn into lining is maker's label: "Bes-Ben / Made in Chicago". Gift of Philip Rosenblum through the Chicago Historical Society. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc38078/
- Hatlet
- Hatlet of orange beaded mesh. The openwork triangular hatlet is formed of stiffened strips of mesh covered in large and small orange beads, edged with double-rows of small orange beads. At each corner of the triangle are large similarly beaded and edged butterfly-shapes. Fine black veil. Underside of hatlet is of stiff mesh edged with narrow bands of velvet. Two plastic combs are attached to secure hat to wearer's head. Designer's label inside hat: "Bes-Ben / Made in Chicago". A second sewn-in label has hand-written number "613". Gift of John C. Murphy through the Chicago Historical Society. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc38074/
- Pillbox Hat
- Pillbox hat of black plastic tubing. The crown of coiled black plastic tubing has a center conical section with extending "tail" of black plastic tubing and sloping sides. Thin crescent-shaped openings relieve the solid appearance of the crown. The lower edge is slightly scalloped. Overlaid with black net veiling. The crown is lined in brown and black mesh. Two plastic combs are attached inside at the sides of the crown to secure hat to wearer's head. Designer's label inside crown: "Bes-Ben / Made in Chicago". Gift of Mrs. Philip Rosenblum, through the Chicago Historical Society. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc38079/
- Hatlet
- Red felt hatlet. Hat styled as a calotte (also spelled "calot") constructed of a red felt square with concave edges that turn downwards. Edged in red glas beads. Two strips of red felt arc up and over at the back of the hat, with a third piece running across from under at back center to near the front. These pieces form a "bow" shape, all edged in red glass beads. Over all is a red net veil with scattered matching red glass beads. The hat is lined in net and edged underneath in red grosgrain ribbon with two small plastic combs attached to secure hat to wearer's head. Maker's label sewn to inner ribbon:"Bes-Ben / Made in Chicago". Also sewn to ribbon is hand-written label "304". Gift of Mrs. Phillip Rosenblum, through the Chicago Historical Society. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc38076/
- Hat
- Hat of brown lace and beads. The beret-style hat is formed as a low crown of brown lace decorated with bronze-colored beads in loops and strings. The hat is lined in white net, and has an inner hatband of dark brown grosgrain ribbon. A stitched "star" on the inner hatband indicates the front of the hat, and two attached small plastic combs help secure the hat to wearer's head. Joint designer's/retailer's label is sewn to inner hatband: "Hattie Carnegie / Inc / Original / expressly for / Neiman Marcus" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc38095/
- Pillbox Hat
- Pillbox hat of black plastic tubing. The slightly domed openwork top of the crown is formed of a coil of black plastic tubing framed in a border of black plastic tubing forming a 7-pointed star. The cylindrical sides of the hat slope gently outwards, and have a shallow lobed or scalloped effect at the edge, with a series of openwork crescent shapes around the base of the crown. The crown is lined in black mesh and edged with a thin band of black plush. There are two plastic combs - one to each side - to help secure hat to wearer's head. Maker's label inside crown: "Bes-Ben / Made in Chicago". Gift of Mrs. William O. Hunt, of Finders Keepers, Chicago, Illinois. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc38090/
- Pillbox Hat
- Pillbox hat of white straw. The slightly domed crown is of made of white (artificial?) straw, a tight narrow weave under a layer of wide, looser bands which weave in and out of the tightly woven section. The hat is unlined, with an inner hatband of white grosgrain ribbon around inside base of crown. There are no labels or marks in the hat. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc38098/
- Pillbox Hat
- Hat of white straw cloth and navy blue felt. The modified pillbox style hat has a slightly conical crown with rounded top of white straw cloth. The lower section of the crown is edged with a wide dark navy blue velvet band. At one side of crown is an applied ornament resembling a snail, consisting of a tightly coiled spiral of white cording that extends up and out, branching into two parts. Near the branching are two rhinestone set spheres, one on each branch. Inside of crown is lined in white fabric, and edged with an inner dark navy blue grosgrain ribbon hatband. Attached to band are two small plastic combs to secure the hat to the wearer's head. Designer's label sewn to inner hatband: "Jan Leslie / Custom Design". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc38094/
- Hat
- Hat of straw. Natural-color straw hat in the style of a modified boater. Shallow domed crown is encircled by a black velvet ribbon with rhinestone set buckle at front securing bow with large loops. Around the front 2/3 of the hat is black veiling/net. The short brim is slightly off-center, extending farther at front than back. The underside of the brim is partly lined in black velvet, while the crown has an inner brown grosgrain hatband. No designer's labels or retailer's labels. A single printed cloth label is sewn to the hatband: "22" Accompanied by two short hatpins with black velvet-covered heads. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc38125/
- Cloche
- Cloche hat of fine light brown/tan straw. The domed crown of straw has a looped segment of woven straw "ribbon" attached at side, with trailing ends. The irregular brim, woven in one piece with crown, has an asymmetrical crease at side. The hat is unlined, with an inner hatband of off-white grosgrain ribbon. Designer's label sewn to inner hatband: "John Frederics 'Charmer'". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc38122/
- Picture Hat
- Small picture hat of straw. The fine, natural color straw crown is domed, and encircled by a band of beige grosgrain ribbon at its base. The ribbon has a bow at the front. The wide, oval brim is set off-center to the crown, and is edged with the same beige grosgrain ribbon. The brim has two "V" cuts into it at front, forming projecting "saw teeth". At the base of each "V" cut, on top and underneath brim, is a bow of the same grosgrain ribbon. The hat is unlined, and there is an inner hatband of beige grosgrain ribbon. Label sewn to inner hatband: "Henrys / Dallas". Henrys has been identified alternately as maker or retailer. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc38121/
- Hatlet
- Hatlet of blue gray feathers. The crown is formed as a partly curved bird's wing, enclosed at back and arcing across the head from ear to ear. The back part of the hat is of fine feathers, closely set, while the front of the hat is made of long feathers set parallel, pointing towards the front of the hat. The under-structure is wired to retain its shape, and the crown is edged with a blue gray grosgrain ribbon and lined with blue fabric. At front of hat is a pale blue gray netting veil with scattered crystals. A black elastic cord is attached to the inner sides of the hat to help secure it to the wearer's head. Maker's label sewn inside crown at back edge: "L and B / Karo / New York" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc38127/
- Picture Hat
- Picture hat. The domed crown is of navy blue twill, with a navy blue grosgrain ribbon band tied at base of crown, with bow at back with trailing ribbons. At front of crown is a second bow of stylized foliate form, created out of stiffened rolled twill or grosgrain, with two red straw cylindrical "buds" extending upwards. The wide, down-turned brim is of red straw. Inside crown is navy blue grosgrain ribbon hatband. Sewn to inner ribbon band is label: "Henry's / Originals / Dallas" Gift of Ian Dellar. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc38120/
- Picture Hat
- Small straw picture hat. Low domed crown of a dark/purple woven straw. Wide, down-turned brim of same material starts high on the crown, and is edged in black velvet. At the back of the hat, starting at top of brim, is an applied spray of artificial daisies and leaves in green fabric, with black velvet bow. Unlined. Inside, at base of crown, is brown/purple grosgrain ribbon headband. Label sewn to inner hatband: "Henrys / Dallas" Henrys has been identified alternately as maker or retailer. Gift of Mr. Ian Dellar. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc38124/
- Toque
- Toque of off-white artificial straw. The toque, formed as a low cap, has a flattened circular crown of artificial(?) off-white woven straw, which is divided into 4 unequal segments by two bands of crossing yellow velvet ribbon. At the front, where the bands of ribbon turn under to the brim are affixed two sprays of artificial flowers. The base of the crown bends under and out and back in to form a tiny brim. The hat is unlined, with an inner hatband of off-white grosgrain ribbon around inside base of crown. Inside the hat, one at either side, are triangular wire pieces covered in matching yellow velvet ribbon to help secure the hat to wearer's head. Affixed to the inner hatband is a black elastic cord to help secure the hat to wearer's head. Sewn inside crown is maker's label: "Marion Vallé / New York". The hat is accompanied by a short hatpin, the head covered in yellow velvet to match the ribbon. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc38126/
- Picture Hat
- Small picture hat of black straw. The domed black straw crown is edged in black velvet ribbon and is surmounted by a "starburst" of pleated black grosgrain fabric with a vertically projecting "tab" of grosgrain ribbon backed with black velvet. The matching straw brim is circular along the front 2/3 of the hat, and then "cut back" along the back 1/2, forming two slight corners at sides. The brim is edged in black velvet ribbon. The crown has an inner black grosgrain ribbon hatband. Label sewn to inner hatband: "Henrys / Dallas". Henrys has been identified alternately as maker or retailer. Accompanied by a single short hatpin with simulated black pearl head. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc38123/
- Hatlet
- Hatlet/circlet of gray mink. Headpiece is formed of a long segment of mink backed with a dark/dusty mauve which forms a circle and extends to side and down. Remains of matching gray veiling along inner edge. Remains of two short spans of elastic on underside which would have held combs to secure hat to wearer's head. Designer's Label: "Bes-Ben / Made in Chicago". Gift of H.B. Curry, Jr., through his daughter Nancy C. Bavor. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc38101/
- Hat
- Hat of natural straw. The high, cylindrical crown is slightly domed, and is encircled by two wide bands of pale yellow grosgrain ribbon. The brim is off-center, wider at front, and turns up sharply at edge. The brim is edged with same ribbon as encircles the crown. The hat is unlined, with a band of pale yellow grosgrain ribbon inside base of crown as inner hatband. Maker's label sewn to inner hatband: "Cedar Crest / Original" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc38108/
- Hat
- Hat of off-white straw. The domed crown is composed of flattened tiers to form a beret-like layer effect. The lower edge is trimmed in an off-white fabric, which repeats as a band of tubular ribbon and fan-comb at one side. The crown is unlined, with an inner hatband of off-white grosgrain ribbon. Two small plastic combs are attached to the inner hatband to secure the hat to wearer's head. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc38109/
- Hatlet
- Hatlet of stiffened black velvet embroidered floral/foliate appliques. Roughly triangular, the appliques have net openwork areas and beaded stamens for the blossoms, and are covered with black veiling. Inside the crown, there are two small brown plastic combs on right and left side to secure hat to wearer's head. Designer's label inside crown: "Bes-Ben / Made in Chicago". Gift of H.B. Curry, Jr., through his daughter Nancy C. Bavor. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc38103/
- Hatlet
- Hatlet of black beads. The triangular openwork crown is formed by strings of beaded material 1" wide with 9 rows of black beads. Set at each corner of the triangle is a large 3-dimensional butterfly shape of the same beaded material. The open center of the hatlet crown has wide-mesh net with 6-sided openings. Inside crown are two small brown plastic combs to help secure hat to wearer's head. Designer's label sewn inside crown: "Bes-Ben / Made in Chicago". Gift of Mrs. William O. Hunt, of Finders Keepers, Chicago, Illinois. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc38087/
- Hatlet
- Hatlet of black plastic tubing. The low crown is made of a tight spiral of twisted black plastic tubing with four open areas near the edge. The front edge of the crown extends to form 4 points, each of which is surmounted by a "bow" of similar shiny black tubing tying together pairs of shiny black plastic ovals. The back edge of the crown extends to form two semi-circular lobes. Overlaying the crown, but beneath the "bows" is black netting veil, with small pieces of black tubing worked into some of the intersections at front of hat. The inside of the crown is lined with black mesh. Two plastic combs, one to each side, are inside crown of hat to secure it to wearer's head. Designer's label inside crown: "Bes-Ben / Made in Chicago" Gift of Mrs. Philip Rosenblum, through the Chicago Historical Society. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc38080/
- Hatlet
- Sculptural hatlet of white beads and floral plaques. The hatlet is formed of a 4 cm. wide strip of stiffened mesh that curves around the head and forms a modified figure 8, with an additional extending loop. The surface of the mesh is covered in circular plastic (?) plaques 3.5 cm. in diameter cast with a floral relief pattern. The space between the plaques and on the edges of the hatlet are covered in tiny white spherical beads. Inner side of the hatlet is lined in stiff white mesh and edged in a thin strip of off-white velvet, and has a section with a wider, larger velvet lining. Possibly a wedding headpiece. Designer's label inside hatlet: "Bes-Ben / Made in Chicago". Gift of Mrs. William O. Hunt, of Finders Keepers, Chicago, Illinois digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc38086/
- Hat
- Hat in the form of a modified turban. The slightly flattened conical crown is flat across the top, with a roll at top and bottom. The lower brim gently undulates, forming lower areas at sides. The whole is covered in gold braid, spirals of black and gold ribbon, various colored rhinestones and blue/green/opalescent beads. The hat is lined in black satin(?), with black grosgrain inner hatband. Designer's label sewn into crown: "Lilly / Daché / Paris New York" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30272/
- Evening Shoes
- Pair of red satin evening shoes. The deep red shoes have pointed toes and 3 1/2" stiletto heels which are lacquered red with tiny white dots and embellished all-over with rhinestones. Marked on sole: "6 / 1/2 / B / 05" and "Made in Italy". Label inside right shoe: "Vaccari / Italy Bologna". Stamped inside left shoe: "Made in Italy for / Neiman Marcus" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30215/
- Hat
- Hat of bright, light orange felt hat. The domed crown is wrapped with a "pleated" pale orange silk chiffon band, over which is a second layer of a very light gray/smoke colored net. The orange felt brim curves downwards. The underside of the brim is lined with the orange felt, while the crown is lined with white silk with a black grosgrain ribbon inner hatband. Designer's label sewn into crown: "Lilly / Daché / Paris New York" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30217/
- Pumps
- Pair of pumps. The open-toed shoes have vamps formed of black leather covered in a rhinestone-covered black fabric "bunched" at center with a circular rhinestone-set black metal button. Silver leather and elastic "spring-o-lators" linings. 3 1/4" black plastic spike heels set with rhinestones. Written inside vamp of each shoe: "6 1/2 [illeg.] / 1616ind / 6486" Stamped on each lining: "Neiman-Marcus" and "Spring-o-lators / Pat Pend" The spring-o-lator was invented by Beth Levine in the 1950's. The elastic created tension which kept backless heeled shoes on the feet. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30214/
- Hat
- Hat made from white straw. The high, cylindrical, slightly domed crown flares out slightly at bottom into an asymmetrical brim. The hat is composed of bands of 10 strands of straw that are twined and platted and woven into shape. Decorating the hat are applied small 4-petaled silk flowers placed all over. At side is a thin bow of white grosgrain ribbon. Unlined, but with an inner white grosgrain ribbon hatband. Sewn into the inner ribbon band is retailer's label, "Saks Fifth Avenue / Millinery Salon". Sewn to the back of the retailer's label is a Union Label, #DB 995583 digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30313/
- Toque
- Toque of fuschia felt. Cylindrical hat is covered in a fuschia/dark pink felt with over-lapping layers simulating a turban. Flattened top with slight ridge. The whole is covered in blue, green, and pink lines of stitching which radiate from the center of the crown outwards and down the sides. At the back of the hat is a bow of blue and red grosgrain ribbon. The hat is unlined, but has a red grosgrain ribbon inner hatband. Sewn to inner ribbon band is designer's label: "Schiaparelli / Paris" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30185/
- Daytime Dress
- Daytime dress of printed cotton lawn. Street-length of white cotton lawn is printed with stripes of grays and coral is sleeveless, with wide straps and V-neckline in front and back. The bodice is cut so that stripes are diagonal, meeting at center front and back and emphasizing the V-neckline. The narrow waist is slightly dropped, and is defined by a wide set-in decorative belt of the same fabric, with stripes running horizontally, with fabric-wrapped rectangular buckle and ends. The full skirt has stripes running vertically, and is gathered at the waist/bottom of the belt. There is one underskirt of cream faille, and a second of stiff cream netting. The center-back zipper closure extends from single hook-and-eye at neckline to base of belt. Bodice is partly lined with cream faille and has internal boning. There is a white grosgrain ribbon inner waistband with hook-and-eye closures. Designer's label is sewn inside dress, to bodice lining at left side: "Adele Simpson". This dress was a gift of the designer Adele Simpson and her husband Wesley Simpson to the Dallas Museum of Fashion, which later became the Texas Fashion Collection. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc86983/
- Pillbox Hat
- Pillbox hat of paisley velveteen. The circular, domed hat is made of a velveteen fabric with printed paisley pattern in shades of green, red, brown, purple, cream, etc. At top of hat is a ball of the same materials. The entire hat and ball have added sewn-on colored rhinestones scattered throughout, and small gold beads. Lined in black cloth, with black grosgrain ribbon inner hatband. Sewn into inner hatband is retailer's label: "Innes / Wichita" Purchased at the Innes store, Wichita, Kansas. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30184/
- Turban
- Turban of gathered white net with small white flowers. Conical crown of stiff netting completely surrounded by gathered tulle net forming a dense "cloud", into which are placed tiny artificial white fabric daisies on small stems. Lined in a stiff patterned net edged with gold and cream braid. Sewn to inner braid is designer label: "Styled by / Jack McConnell / New York". With a pearl-headed hatpin. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30169/
- Petti-Hoop
- Petti-hoop of steel hoops within a white cotton petticoat. A modified form of cage crinoline consisting of three graduated steel hoops that open with snaps that fit within horizontal pockets of the full-length petticoat. Petticoat has gathered waist and eyelet lace at hem. Maker's label sewn in: "Petti-hoop / Created by / Ru-Nell / Pat Pend #494517" Size label, "10". The Ru-Nell Manufacturing Co. was founded by Fred Poole in 1935 in Yorkville, Georgia, USA. The company was named after his wife Ruby, and his oldest daughter Nell. Originally producing chenille bedspreads, they began to manufacturing "Petti-hoops" after their daughter Dorothy was unable to find a petticoat/hoop set to wear for a Southern Bell Ball in the 1950's. Ruby Poole designed the first one, and it became so popular that they went into production. Later they were produced as wedding gown underpinnings. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc87029/
- Red Leaf Hat
- Red leaf hat. Rounded conical hat of netting partly covered with red and pink silk leaves. Inside the hat, which has aspects of both a cloche and a toque, at the base of the crown, is a band of red grosgrain ribbon. Sewn into the ribbon band is designer's label: "Balenciaga / 10 Avenue George V Paris". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30033/