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  Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
 Decade: 1940-1949
 Collection: Texas Fashion Collection
Ensemble - Jacket and Skirt
Ensemble consisting of jacket and skirt. The fitted black velvet jacket is encrusted with gold braid/ribbon in a lattice/trellis pattern over the entire surface, with added buttons, cabochons, beads, etc. lavishly sewn over the surface. The jacket has a no collar, and short capped sleeves. From the natural waist flares a peplum. The jacket has a center front closure of hooks-and-eyes. Unlined, it has built-in shoulder pads. No label in jacket. The accompanying straight skirt is full-length, of heavy black crepe. Center back zipper closure with hook-and-eye at waistband. Designer's label inside skirt at side seam: "Adrian / custom", along with a second label, typed on white grosgrain ribbon, sewn in: "Neiman Marcus 417 / Size 12". This garment reflects Adrian's celebration of the lifting of wartime restrictions on types and quantities of materials and trimmings that could be used in making clothes. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30229/
Coat
Coat of black wool and chinchilla fur. The full-length black wool coat is tailored to fit at waist and flares out at skirt. Long sleeves, and center front opening with 8 circular buttons covered with same black cloth, and 3 hook-and-loops spaced along the opening. The coat has a Peter Pan collar of brown and taupe striped fur identified as chinchilla. From the hips down to the hem is trimmed with matching fur, arranged so the stripes run horizontally around the skirt of the coat. The coat is fully lined in black cloth. Single retailer's label at inside back of collar: "Neiman-Marcus / Dallas". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30101/
Suit
Street suit of gray wool. A daytime or street suit consisting of two pieces. A) Jacket, with squared padded shoulders, no collar, and long sleeves. Opening along the central front, the jacket has a series of 5 hook-and-eye closures, and has a band that extends from upper left, across opening, and secures through a wide loop just below the right shoulder. The jacket is lined in a peach/mauve silk. B) Skirt. The straight skirt was originally just below knee length, but has been lengthened by the addition of material almost matching the lining of the jacket. The skirt has a center back zipper closure. It is currently unlined, but has evidence of the alterations. Jacket: At center back of inside neckline is designer's label: "Gilbert / Original"; at right inside seam: "Frost Bros / San Antonio". Skirt: No labels, possibly removed. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30093/
Cartwheel Hat
Black cartwheel hat. The low, domed crown and wide circular brim are made of black woven horsehair and stiff veiling, with wire to stiffen the edges. The brim is overlaid with a wider second brim of net and wire. Brim is "off-center", wider at front of hat than back. Around base of crown is a band of black cording, tied into a bow at back and with trailing ends. The inside base of the crown is lined with black grosgrain ribbon. One pin with black head is with hat to secure it. Label sewn into inner band: "Sally Victor / 18 East 53rd St." A second label with handwritten number "1655" is sewn in near designer's label. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30042/
Suit
Two-piece suit of beige worsted wool gabardine of tropical weight. The jacket is medium-length and semi-fitted, with a roll collar having wide pointed revers. It has tuck-over wide padded shoulders and long, narrow sleeves. There are slight vertical gathers at waistline, starting at sides and running around back. The center front opening has three large plated metal buttons shaped as trumpet flowers. The jacket is lined in peach crepe. The matching skirt is mid-length, with a narrow waistband that laps over and secures with two hook-and-eye closures. Skirt has four inverted pleats beginning 41.5 cm below waistband and extending down 30 cm. to bottom of skirt, two at front, two at back. Side zipper closure, top of which is where waistband secures. Skirt is unlined, and has no labels. There are three labels in the coat: Designer's label at inside left: "Forstmann / 100% Virgin Wool / © F.W. Co." Retailer's label at inside back collar: "Sanger's / Dallas" Coat and Suit Industry National Recovery Board label inside right side at seam "135776". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30048/
Gloves
Glove of pale blue-gray cotton with green undertone. Hands have seams on outside; running stitch of same color; wrists widen and dip in V shape on thumb side; pinkie finger side of wrist features a large scalloped edge. Label sewn in right glove: "Gloves / Designed by / Lilly Dache", with "7" in a circle indicating size. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc38130/
Hatlet
Hatlet of navy blue and white. The crown of the hat is formed of two hollow teardrop shapes, set with points overlapping, of a coarse navy blue fabric edged in dark blue plastic or vinyl piping. Extending from the point of each teardrop is a partly unrolled cone of the same material with an inner white/cream lining. Extending from the open end of each cone are single segments of the piping. The hatlet is overlaid with blue netting/veiling with a wide mesh and with scattered pairs of blue and white beads affixed to intersections of the mesh. The underside of the hatlet is lined in blue grosgrain ribbon, and has two small elastic cords holding two small plastic combs to secure the hatlet to the wearer's head. Designer's label sewn inside: "Bes-Ben / Made in Chicago" and an applied label with handwritten "318" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc38129/
Hat
Hat of ultramarine blue felt. Based on a top hat, the cylindrical high crown has an undulating upper edge. Small brim curls up at front and sides, but curls down at back, ending in a point. Around base of crown is wide blue grosgrain ribbon which trails off back of hat. Inside of brim lined with black grosgrain ribbon. A thin black elastic strap goes around the back of the head to secure the hat. Label sewn into inner band: "Walter Florell / 29 East 53rd New York" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114797/
Hat
Hat in modified renaissance style of black crochet net. Flat, circular crown of net gathered under crown from temples draping to shoulder length. Inside hatband of black grosgrain. Designer's label on inside hatband: " Lilly Dache Paris 78 East 58th St. New York" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114946/
Picture Hat
Picture hat of reddish brown straw. Low, cylindrical, slightly tilted crown is flattened at top and encircled at base by wide gray grosgrain ribbon which divides into three tiers of streamers cascading at back. Wide floppy brim. Reddish brown inner grosgrain ribbon hatband and black elastic cord to secure to wearer's head. Designer's label at inner hatband: "Hattie Carnegie / INC." Retailer's label at inner hatband: "Neiman Marcus Co. / New York Dallas Paris" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc277133/
Calotte Hat
Calotte of black felt with brown mink trim around front and sides. Quilted crown. Black grosgrain inner hatband; unlined. Retailer's label on inside hatband: "The Fair / Fort Worth" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114945/
Calotte Hat
Calotte style hat in muted pink velvet. Crown has narrow 1" down-turned brim, trimmed with velvet flowers and pink ostrich feathers. Netting of same color as trim. One large, clear rhinestone on side of hat. Elastic band for securing hat to wearer's head. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114961/
Calotte Hat
Calotte style hat of gold lamé fabric. Hat could also be called a modified turban. Upturned brim with large, circular, red rhinestone surrounded by white rhinestones as trim. Same trim of large, circular, red rhinestone surrounded by white rhinestones on right side of hat. Lined in black fabric with black grosgrain headband. Retailer's label on inside headband: "Titche Goettinger Co. / Dallas" Designer's label on inside headband: "Sally Victor / 18 East 53rd St." digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114971/
Calotte Hat
Calotte of black straw cloth. White fabric rosebuds and daisies with green leaves form headband as trim over small brim in front. Edge of hat trimmed in black velvet. Black veil gathers to velvet ribbons on ends to form tie for securing hat to head. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114970/
Headband
Bandeau of autumn haze mink. Headband has brown grosgrain lining. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114962/
Calotte Hat
Calotte style hat of maroon straw trimmed with grosgrain ribbon. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114737/
Fedora Hat
Fedora style hat of gray felt. The crown is of gray felt, canted backwards, with flattened top which is sunken-in. Brim slants down in front and turns up in back, and is quilted with concentric stitching. Remains of threads and holes indicate hat originally had some form of band around the base of the crown. Unlined, with inner hatband of steel blue gray grosgrain ribbon inside base of crown. Affixed to inner hatband is black elasticized cord to secure hat to wearer's head. Maker's label sewn to inner hatband: "Valerie / Hat / Paris - New York" Size label sewn to edge of maker's label: "22 1/2" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc276994/
Hat
Safari-like hat of olive green with four-sectioned crown. Green grosgrain ribbon and bow as trim. Elastic band for securing hat to wearer's head. Unlined with grosgrain headband. Stamp on inside headband: "Made in France Especially for / Best & Co." digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc276991/
Fedora Hat
Fedora style hat of brown felt with brown satin ribbon as trim around crown. Unlined. Retailer's label: "Knox / New York" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114913/
Calotte Hat
Calotte style hat made of black velvet with satin braid trim. Black net veil. No labels. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114914/
Hat
Hat of black fur felt. Wide crown covered with net printed with gold flowers and leaves. Wide black velvet ribbon as hatband with bow as trim. Narrow brim. Stamp on inside crown: "Turin / Genuine Fur Felt / Finest Quality Veld(?) / Made in Italy" Retailer's label on inside hatband: "Sanger's / Dallas" Manufacturer's label to right of retailer's label: "Cedar Crest / Original" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114916/
Cartwheel Hat
Cartwheel hat of natural colored straw. Brim is wider in front than on back. Trimmed with hatband of wide, black grosgrain ribbon that forms bow in back. Edge of brim trimmed in black grosgrain. Unlined. Retailer's label on inside hatband: "Neiman-Marcus / Dallas" Union label number 852534 to left of retailer's label on inside hatband. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114902/
Halo Hat
Pamela or halo style hat of natural colored straw cloth. Crown ringed with brown silk organza roses. Edge of brim covered with natural colored grosgrain. One hatpin with black, teardrop shaped head. Elastic band for securing hat to wearer's head. Unlined. Retailer's label on inside hatband: "Henrys / Dallas" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114900/
Hat
Hat of green pleated, nubbed cloth. All-over pleats connect on crown under large, round covered button in same. Wide hatband of self makes double bow on back. Hatpin with pearl head. Inside headband of green grosgrain ribbon. Lined in cream colored silk. Could be called a flower-pot or mushroom style hat. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114735/
Skirt Suit
Street suit of gray wool. A daytime or street suit consisting of two pieces. Excellent example of chiaroscuro work. A) Jacket with squared padded shoulders, no collar, and long sleeves. Opening along the central front, the jacket has a series of 5 hook-and-eye closures. A band that extends from upper left, across opening, and secures through a wide loop just below the right shoulder. The jacket is lined in a peach/mauve silk. At center back of inside neckline is designer's label: "Adrian / Original" Retailer's label at right inside seam: "Frost Bros. / San Antonio". B) Straight skirt was originally just below knee length, but has been lengthened by the addition of material almost matching the lining of the jacket. The skirt has a center back zipper closure. It is currently unlined, but has evidence of the alterations. No labels, possibly removed. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc283717/
Coat Dress
Coat dress of navy silk faille with padded hips. Notched collar; single button closure. Long sleeves with vertical pleat across back shoulder to each sleeve hem. Lower mid-length skirt. Two crescent shaped pieces of fabric at hips with faux pocket detail gives the appearance of a separate jacket. Designer's label on inner right waist side seam: "Christian Dior/ New York/ Original" Tag above designer's label: "Fall 1949" Retailer's label on back of neck: "Neiman-Marcus/ Dallas" Belt of matching navy leather. Stamped on back of belt: "10 Christian Dior / New York" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc283699/
Dress
Evening dress of silk crepe for summer. The full-length dress has an A-line skirt of cocoa brown silk crepe and attached belt with pendant strap at front left. The bodice is of cream silk crepe printed with a "trompe l'oeil" ribbon motif below the rounded neckline. Darts at sides. Long, bat-wing style tapered sleeves. Center-back snap closure. Unlined. Designer's label: "Adrian / Original" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc283732/
Ensemble
Ensemble of black wool. The outfit consists of: A) Dress of black wool. Street-length skirt has attached low front leather belt which passes through pleats on left and right. Bodice has narrow collar and deep V-neck with piping that twists at base of V. Bracelet length sleeves with cuffs. Back zipper. No labels. B) Jacket of black wool. Jacket has long sleeves with rolled, notched cuffs, and a notched collar. Center front opening has 5 circular, plastic buttons and covered buttonholes. The padded hips have double welt pockets at left and right. The jacket is lined in black silk. Combined Designer/Retailer label: "Neiman-Marcus dallas / Hattie Carnegie" National Recovery Board / Coat and Suit Industry label "000006" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc283689/
Skirt Suit
Skirt suit of navy wool with white pinstripes consisting of: A) Jacket of navy and white pinstripe wool. Double breasted with 4 circular navy blue buttons and covered buttonholes. Notched collar. Long sleeves. Padded shoulders. Horizontal, double welt pockets covered with flap at front left and right. Lined in navy silk. Designer's label at back neckline: "Hattie Carnegie" Retailer's label at right inside seam: "Neiman-Marcus / Dallas" Union label at right inside seam. b) White crepe blouse - not shown in photographs. c) Skirt of navy wool. Slight A-line. Street length. Unlined. Label at hem: "Spring 1946 / Hattie Carnegie / Size 10" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc283666/
Hat
Hat of purple felt. The low, circular crown is mostly flattened, with a slightly undulating surface. Around the crown is a wide band of turquoise crushed silk jersey held in place by crossing bands of fuchsia pink and dark blue purple yarn. The wide, flat oval brim is set just slightly off-center to the crown, giving a wider brim in front than back. The hat is unlined, with an inner hatband of purple blue grosgrain ribbon around the inside base of the crown. Designer's label sewn to inner hatband: "Henry's / Originals / Dallas". This hat was designed to be worn with a skirt suit of Mexican homespun cotton designed by Adrian, accession number 1967.002.003. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39127/
Skirt Suit
Navy daytime tailored two-piece suit in British Samek wool. a) Suit jacket of navy British Samek wool. Center front opening with three circular, blue plastic buttons; welted buttonholes button suit jacket. Padded shoulders. Two patch pockets. Notched collar with squared shoulder yoke with matching button attached to square insert. Lined in eggplant crepe. Designer's label at inside back neckline: "Adrian / in / British Samek Material" Tag above designer's label: "A. Herod, Sr." b) Slim straight skirt of navy British Samek wool. Folded waistband of same. Center back zipper with snap and 4 hook and eyes on waistband. Lined in navy blue silk. Tag on inside waistband: "A. Herod, Sr." digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc283769/
Hat
Hat of tan fur felt. Large, turned down brim in mushroom shape; asymmetrical with narrower brim in back. Calotte crown with narrow hatband and bow of self on back. Unlined with black grosgrain headband. Manufacturer's label on inside headband: "Exclusive / Ranleigh / Model" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114977/
Hat
Hat of black broadtail fur with high, rounded crown and narrow, curved brim. Wide, black grosgrain ribbon as hatband forms bow at side. Designer's label: "Lilly Daché / Paris New York" Crown stamped: "Featherlite / Brand" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114985/
Hat
Hat in turban style of black jersey. Soft folds tie at back. Headband of self. Designer's label on inside headband: "Paulette" Tag at base of designer's label: "Made in France" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114986/
Hat
Turban of black and red print fabric with large draped pouf at top in bow shape. Headband of same drapes around back of top pouf, hangs over forehead and knots in front. Lined in black net with black grosgrain headband. Designer's Label: "Lilly / Dache / Paris New York / 78 East 56th Street, N.Y." Size label: "22 1/4" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114987/
Hat
Hat of fine mauve straw and artificial flowers. Designed as a "boater", the low cylindrical crown is of woven fine mauve straw with a slightly sunken, inset flat top. Around the base of the crown is a wreath of artificial flowers, including red roses, and small blossoms in pale green and mauve, which is tied at back with a thin green velvet ribbon bow with trailing ends. From below the wreath extends a net mesh veil, which covers the narrow, flat brim, and hangs down. The hat is unlined, with an inner dark green grosgrain ribbon hatband. Designer's label: "Nat Frank / New York" Size label: "22" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc87066/
Hatlet
Hatlet of black straw, net, and velvet. The hatlet is based on a metal underframe shaped as an open circle, wrapped, on which are set six black straw pompom forms set in a circle about 6" in diameter. At center of circle is a bow of narrow black velvet ribbon with 4 extending trailing ribbons. The whole is set on a circular veil of black mesh net. Designer's label: "Norman-Pualvin / New York". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc87070/
Hat
Hat of light brown felt and black voile. The domed crown is of light brown felt, curving slightly and extending outwards at front. Mounted at front is a large leaf-shape of fine black voile with black thread veining and wired edge. The leaf from is sculptural, with the wired edge curved and bent. At side of leaf is a spray of yellow feathers and black ribbon. Hat is unlined, with inner light brown grosgrain ribbon hatband. Designer's label (stating reproduction: "Reproduction Autorisee de / Janette Colombier / 4 Avenue Matignon / Paris" Maker's label: "Fifth Avenue / G Howard Hodge / New York" Maker's label for felt body: "Gaby / Made / In / Czechoslovakia" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc87091/
Hat
Hat of tan fur felt. The highly structured hat of fur felt has a somewhat conical crown, the top with a low dome. Around the top edge of the crown is a wide band of same felt, slanting down, enhanced with vertical stitching. Below this slanting band, around the main body of the crown, is a wide band of brown satin-finished ribbon, decorated with 8 horizontal rows of top stitching, secured at back under a vertical band of the felt. The narrow brim, ca. 1" wide, angles downwards, sharply at back and sides, gently at front, and rolls under. The hat is unlined, with an inner hatband of tan grosgrain ribbon. Designer's label: "Schiaparelli / Paris" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc87092/
Hat
Hat of natural straw and yellow/orange netting. The high domed crown is encircled by layers of pleated orange/yellow netting, secured with a single wide vertical band. The whole is overlaid with a wide mesh net of same orange yellow. Round base of crown is a narrow band of matching velvet, with bow and trailing ribbon. Very narrow brim, angled downwards, of same woven straw. Hat is unlined, with inner hatband of yellow/orange grosgrain ribbon. Union label Size label digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc87093/
Sling-Back Pumps
Pair of sling-back pumps of black calf leather. Shoes have a narrow platform and are open toe. Rounded throat on vamp, which is decorated with applied oval detailing in 3 layers. Center layer of black grosgrain, upper and lower layers of black leather. Oval cut-out in center of detail. Ankle-strap fastens with small rectangular black metal buckles. 3" black-lacquered French set-under heel similar to a spike form. Handwritten in side of each shoe: "6 1/2 B / r28514 / 1510-6BF" Stamped inside both shoes: "Palter DeLiso / Capri / Last" Stamped in left shoe: "Palter DeLiso inc / New York City" Right shoe with inlaid woven cloth label: "Neiman Marcus Co. Dallas / Fenwyn / Trade Mark Reg'd" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114988/
Hat
Hat of brown felt in modified beret-style. Crown is draped with a band of pearls as trim on right side. Unlined with black grosgrain ribbon inner headband. Maker's label: "Haute Mode / Michèle / Paris" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc277119/
Alpine Hat
Alpine hat of dark green felt hat. Brim slightly turned up. Hatband of lighter green yarn with feather brush on one side with metal bird on handle. One metal hat pin with a stag and doe and a black and red emblem in top right corner. Unlined with leather inner headband. Labels inside crown: "Ludwig Zapf hutmacher Werfen" and "Lanz Salzburg". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39092/
Beret
Beret of ivory wool felt with gold crown amulet embellished with rhinestones in front. Red grosgrain ribbon inner headband. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc305374/
Hat
Hat made of white stitched, quilted cotton. Crownless. Hat constructed of circular piece with tucks at left and right back. Interior wire support covered with matching grosgrain ribbon. Maker's label: "Henrys / Dallas" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286927/
Hat
Hat of black chenille yarn. High crown; wide brim curls up. Unlined. Maker's label: "Original Design / by / Madcaps / New York" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39088/
Hat
Hat of deep green felt in modified alpine style. High crown with 2 bows of self as trim. Folded brim around front and sides of hat. Elastic band for securing hat to wearer's head. Unlined with green grosgrain ribbon inner headband. Designer's label: "Lorie" Retailer's label: "3410 Oak Lawn / Bernie A. Cahn / Dallas, Tex." Size tag: "registered model / 22 1/2" Paper price tag: "53-4 / 20.00" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39091/
Calotte
Calotte of off-white satin. Styled as a calotte (also spelled "calot"), the low domed crown is covered with smooth off-white satin at front, ending in scalloped edges along front and sides with thin self piped edge with loops at upper points of the scallops; at rear, the hat has the same off-white satin folded, draped, and pleated, with a straight edge along the base. Interior of hat partly lined at front with an off-white damask/brocade fabric, the rest showing the net under-structure of the hat. Accompanied by two hatpins with oval heads covered with matching off-white satin. Maker's label inside: "Edna Mye / Dallas" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286930/
Headpiece
Headpiece of black satin. Headpiece formed as an openwork braided cylinder made of three thick black satin segments. Black grosgrain ribbon inner band, to which is sewn a brown plastic comb to help fasten hat to wearer's head. No labels. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286945/
Hat
Hat of black velvet with cording detail. The domed crown is encircled at base with a band of black cord-work, with a bow at back with trailing ribbon. The circular brim turns up at edge, which is embellished with same cording as base of crown. Lined in ribbed orange red fabric, with a black grosgrain inner ribbon hatband, and with an elastic cord to help secure hat to wearer's head. Designer's hand-sewn label inside crown: "Jo Bailey / Hats" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc87067/