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  Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
 Country: United States
 Decade: 1940-1949
 Collection: Texas Fashion Collection
Hat
Hat of black, white, red, and ocher silk styled as a Garrison Cap (aka Side Cap, or Wedge Cap). Influenced by military headgear, this hat is constructed as a flat envelope, which opens along long edge to form a wedge-shaped crown. The cap is dyed in the Shibori technique, forming intricate designs outlined in white and filled in with red or ocher dots. Lined in black silk. Designer's label inside: "3410 Oak Lawn / Bernie A. Cahn / Dallas, Tex." digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc277011/
Calotte Hat
Calotte style hat of black velvet with black net veil in front. Lined in green fabric. Retailer's label: "Saks Fifth Avenue / Debutante" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc277045/
Pillbox Hat
No Description digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc87088/
Hat
Hat of cream and gray striped fabric. Low, cylindrical crown, flattened at top. At back of crown is band of vertically pleated band of same fabric, which extends to edge of brim. Narrow asymmetrical brim, wider in front. At back of brim is cream bow of thick velvet "string" with trailing ends. Underside of brim lined in cream velvet which extends up to edge the brim. Inner cream grosgrain ribbon hatband. Designer's label on inside hatband: "Lydia / New York" Retailer's label on inside hatband: "Walker-Marr / Dallas" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc87046/
Hat
Hat of black felt. Styled somewhat as a fez, the hat has a slightly conical crown with flattened top. At back are two segments of black silk braid/knotwork. Inner black grosgrain ribbon hatband. Designer's label: "Original / Helen Smith / Marshall Field Annex - Chicago" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc87075/
Hatlet
Hatlet of black straw, net, and velvet. The hatlet is based on a metal underframe shaped as an open circle, wrapped, on which are set six black straw pompom forms set in a circle about 6" in diameter. At center of circle is a bow of narrow black velvet ribbon with 4 extending trailing ribbons. The whole is set on a circular veil of black mesh net. Designer's label: "Norman-Pualvin / New York". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc87070/
Hat
Hat of fine mauve straw and artificial flowers. Designed as a "boater", the low cylindrical crown is of woven fine mauve straw with a slightly sunken, inset flat top. Around the base of the crown is a wreath of artificial flowers, including red roses, and small blossoms in pale green and mauve, which is tied at back with a thin green velvet ribbon bow with trailing ends. From below the wreath extends a net mesh veil, which covers the narrow, flat brim, and hangs down. The hat is unlined, with an inner dark green grosgrain ribbon hatband. Designer's label: "Nat Frank / New York" Size label: "22" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc87066/
Hat
Beret style hat of navy and white woven straw. Ribbon flower hangs off side of hat with small flag of orange grosgrain ribbon on top of stem. Inner headband of black grosgrain ribbon with extension at back of white grosgrain ribbon. Unlined. Designer's label at inside headband: "Gladys & Belle / 20 West 57th St. - New York" Retailer's label at inside headband: "Walker-Marr / Dallas" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc87047/
Hat
Hat of light brown felt and black voile. The domed crown is of light brown felt, curving slightly and extending outwards at front. Mounted at front is a large leaf-shape of fine black voile with black thread veining and wired edge. The leaf from is sculptural, with the wired edge curved and bent. At side of leaf is a spray of yellow feathers and black ribbon. Hat is unlined, with inner light brown grosgrain ribbon hatband. Designer's label (stating reproduction: "Reproduction Autorisee de / Janette Colombier / 4 Avenue Matignon / Paris" Maker's label: "Fifth Avenue / G Howard Hodge / New York" Maker's label for felt body: "Gaby / Made / In / Czechoslovakia" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc87091/
Hat
Hat of natural straw and yellow/orange netting. The high domed crown is encircled by layers of pleated orange/yellow netting, secured with a single wide vertical band. The whole is overlaid with a wide mesh net of same orange yellow. Round base of crown is a narrow band of matching velvet, with bow and trailing ribbon. Very narrow brim, angled downwards, of same woven straw. Hat is unlined, with inner hatband of yellow/orange grosgrain ribbon. Union label Size label digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc87093/
Hat
Safari-like hat of olive green with four-sectioned crown. Green grosgrain ribbon and bow as trim. Elastic band for securing hat to wearer's head. Unlined with grosgrain headband. Stamp on inside headband: "Made in France Especially for / Best & Co." digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc276991/
Fedora Hat
Fedora style hat of gray felt. The crown is of gray felt, canted backwards, with flattened top which is sunken-in. Brim slants down in front and turns up in back, and is quilted with concentric stitching. Remains of threads and holes indicate hat originally had some form of band around the base of the crown. Unlined, with inner hatband of steel blue gray grosgrain ribbon inside base of crown. Affixed to inner hatband is black elasticized cord to secure hat to wearer's head. Maker's label sewn to inner hatband: "Valerie / Hat / Paris - New York" Size label sewn to edge of maker's label: "22 1/2" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc276994/
Gloves
Glove of pale blue-gray cotton with green undertone. Hands have seams on outside; running stitch of same color; wrists widen and dip in V shape on thumb side; pinkie finger side of wrist features a large scalloped edge. Label sewn in right glove: "Gloves / Designed by / Lilly Dache", with "7" in a circle indicating size. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc38130/
Hatlet
Hatlet of navy blue and white. The crown of the hat is formed of two hollow teardrop shapes, set with points overlapping, of a coarse navy blue fabric edged in dark blue plastic or vinyl piping. Extending from the point of each teardrop is a partly unrolled cone of the same material with an inner white/cream lining. Extending from the open end of each cone are single segments of the piping. The hatlet is overlaid with blue netting/veiling with a wide mesh and with scattered pairs of blue and white beads affixed to intersections of the mesh. The underside of the hatlet is lined in blue grosgrain ribbon, and has two small elastic cords holding two small plastic combs to secure the hatlet to the wearer's head. Designer's label sewn inside: "Bes-Ben / Made in Chicago" and an applied label with handwritten "318" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc38129/
Beret
Beret style hat of ochre colored chenille yarn. Retailer's label on inside crown: " Alexander & Oviatt / Los Angeles" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc86978/
Hat
Hat of multi-colored woven wool stripes. Designed somewhat as a toque, the hat has a cylindrical crown, tilted back, with flattened, recessed top and no brim. The fabric of the hat has alternating stripes of white, dark red, red, pink, dark blue, light blue, and gray, with the stripes arranged to form chevrons. lined in thin black fabric, with underlayer of medium gray. Designer's label sewn to inner hatband: "Bonnette / Highland Park Village" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc86976/
Hat
Hat made of white stitched, quilted cotton. Crownless. Hat constructed of circular piece with tucks at left and right back. Interior wire support covered with matching grosgrain ribbon. Maker's label: "Henrys / Dallas" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286927/
Calotte
Calotte of off-white satin. Styled as a calotte (also spelled "calot"), the low domed crown is covered with smooth off-white satin at front, ending in scalloped edges along front and sides with thin self piped edge with loops at upper points of the scallops; at rear, the hat has the same off-white satin folded, draped, and pleated, with a straight edge along the base. Interior of hat partly lined at front with an off-white damask/brocade fabric, the rest showing the net under-structure of the hat. Accompanied by two hatpins with oval heads covered with matching off-white satin. Maker's label inside: "Edna Mye / Dallas" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286930/
Picture Hat
Picture style hat of black felt. Asymmetrical brim is wider on sides. Fringe of self as trim encircles crown and drapes across brim. Unlined with black grosgrain ribbon inner headband. Elastic band for securing hat to wearer's head. Designer's label: "John Fredericks Inc. / New York" Tag at left of designer's label: "Made in America" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286784/
Wedding Dress
Wedding gown of ivory rayon satin with sweetheart neckline trimmed in a band of crimped rayon surrounded with pearl beads; fabric is gathered into seams below bust; long Juliet sleeves taper to wrist and have pointed end with satin button closure; pointed waistline with full-length skirt gathered into piped waistline; long train. Accompanied by a beaded crown or circlet of white beaded flowers, and a veil of fine white tulle with half circle headband at crown. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc283759/
Skirt Suit
Woman's suit of brown wool gabardine. a) Single breasted, jacket with rectangle motif carried throughout. Convertible collar with 3" points, and one under collar stop 2" from CF as shoulder yoke extends in a 2" wide rectangle parallel to collar edge. Shoulder yoke also extends to self-face the jacket, creating a 1"x 3" rectangle on the underside of the first bound button hold and button. There are 4 brown buttons with three narrow bound button holes, the second button falling at bottom of rectangle yoke as a inseam button. Pair of double welt slit pockets below shoulder within a rectangle of opposite grain within the larger rectangle in same grain as welt lips, with rectangle design lines extending over sleeve and top of it slip-stitched to mid-arm scythe. Two parallel princess seams starting from lower rectangle yoke and front under arm seam run under 8" over-sized pocket flap, narrow to define width of 4" slit pocket. Over-sized bias pocket flap is 8" x 4" with 1 1/2" x 7" vertically center rectangle insert of opposite bias grain both starting from side seam. Full length set in sleeves with one elbow dart at each under seam. At right sleeve's forearm starts a rectangle welt insert attached til 1 3/4" above cuff, where it floats above sleeve and continues as its own shape to cuff's edge and folds back 1" basted to itself. Lined in copper crepe silk. Designer's label at inside back neckline: "Adrian / in /British Samek Material" (b) A-line skirt of matching fabric. One inch folded waistband with triangular tab at lapped left side zipper with snap at tip and 4 sets of hook & eyes on waistband. Two 4" darts on front and two 7" darts on back. Unlined with pinked seam edges. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc283765/
Skirt Suit
Gray worsted wool two-piece suit. A) Jacket. Hip-length, with long sleeves. Center front opening with 4 large circular buttons (one missing). Front with piece-in bands of same cloth forming cross-overs at upper bust and arcs below the two pockets. Lined in peach fabric. Designer's label at left side: "Adrian / Original"; At center back inside neckline is retailer's label "Nan Duskin / Philadelphia" B) Skirt. Street-length, ca. mid-calf. Zipper closure at left hip, with hook-and-eyes at waistband. Unlined. Retailer's label as in jacket, near hem on side seam. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc283729/
Skirt Suit
Two-piece skirt suit of tan, lightly striped, possibly synthetic material. The jacket is a tailored shell with high rounded neckline and square spread collar. Full-length set-in sleeves. constructed in one piece with darts at the elbows. Center front closure from the neck to hip line with four bound buttonholes with corresponding brown tortoise shell buttons. Bound hip pockets with flaps. The jacket front is intricately pieced. Fully lined in light brown crepe. Designer's label stitched along inside of right front opening: "Adrian / Original" The skirt is narrow, knee-length, with knee-level kick pleat. The skirt is darted into a narrow waistband, and has a left side seam zipper closure from waist to hip line. Lapped closure with single hook&eye and hook&bar. Unlined with turned back hem. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc283771/
Skirt Suit
Suit of tan heather wool. Suit consists of two pieces: A) Jacket, pointed collar, notched lapels, single breasted, long sleeves, cut formed of diagonal piecing, lined in tan silk crepe. B: Skirt, four gored, kick pleat at CF hem. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc283725/
Skirt Suit
Skirt suit of navy blue wool twill consisting of: A) Hip-length jacket with full length tailored sleeves. Collarless neckline which raises 3/4". Single breasted with 3 tortoise buttons and slim bound button holes. Bib-shaped yoke insert with two almost vertical faux pocket flaps. Mid-arm design seams comes to inner top of lower hacking pocket flaps. Hacking pockets have vertical and slim bound buttons holes with one tortoise button for right flap and one turquoise button for left flap. Back inverted triangular yoke starts from shoulders with point ended at center back waist. Tailored sleeve split into upper and under sleeve, with two darts at elbow on under sleeve. Fully lined in (now) indigo crepe silk. B) Skirt, pencil with seams at center front and back and both sides. 1 1/2" waist band with triangular tip comes to a lapped zipper on left side and 4 sets of hooks and one snap for closure. Two 2" darts on front and two 4" darts on back. 2" simple vent at CF hem, hem has been let down from original length by ~2", using 2" cotton bias tape. Skirt is unlined with pinked cut edges to finish seam inside. Labels: Designer's label: "Adrian / in / British Samek Material" Retailer's label: "The Fashion / Houston" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc283767/
Skirt Suit
Brown gabardine suit. a) Suit jacket of brown gaberdine. Long sleeves. Single breasted with three circular brown buttons and bound buttonholes. Two faux flap pockets at yoke with matching, smaller buttons and bound buttonholes. Two lower hacking pockets with matching, smaller buttons and bound buttonholes. V-shaped yoke on back. Lined in rust colored silk. No designer's label. Retailer's label on inside center back neckline: "Nan Duskin / Philadelphia" b)Skirt of brown gaberdine. A-lined shape with left side zipper. Kick pleat at center front seam. Unlined. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286857/
Picture Hat
Picture hat of off-white felt. The low, domed crown is open at top along a split from front to back, and is encircled and almost covered by wide bands of red, white, and blue horizontally striped grosgrain ribbon, with crossing and trailing ends at back. The wide brim curves downwards. Hat is unlined, with inner off-white grosgrain ribbon hatband. Designer's label inside: "Sonnenfeld's / St. Louis" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286862/
Skirt Suit
Woman's skirt suit of grey-black twill wool with blue and creme yellow pinstripe. a) Jacket has flat pointed collar with a rectangular insert yoke panel trimmed with four teal, olive and brown mottled plastic buttons. Center front opening with three same buttons and bound button holes. Bodice has 3 faux pocket flaps on right, increasing in size like a step pyramid. Long, one-piece set in sleeves sleeves with two elbow darts on both arms. Right arm has two rectangular, decorative fabric panels on right sleeve of jacket's fabric, with a single button and bound button hole each in the upper, outer corner. Lined in tan silk faille. Designer's Label at center back collar: "Adrian/ in/British Samek Material" (b) A-line skirt with CF and CB and side seams. Hemmed in navy blue hem tape, blind hem (slip) stitched on both sides. 3" hem. Four waist darts, with 1 3/8" waist band ending in arrow tip over left-side lapped zipper. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286814/
Hat
Hat of white/black striped silk. Pieced, skullcap crown with narrow, folded brim. Inner headband of black grosgrain ribbon. Unlined. Designer's label: "Mr. John Inc." digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114802/
Hat
Hat of red straw with high crown. Cream and pink roses decorate turned down brim and top of crown. Unlined with red grosgrain ribbon inner headband. Designer's label sewn inside headband: "John Frederics / Made to Order" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114804/
Hat
Beret style cap of off-white silk noil. Crown is of pieced construction with topstitching on all seams. Headband of same with rows of horizontal topstitching. Inner headband of light green colored grosgrain ribbon. Unlined. Retailer's label on inside headband at back: "Henrys / Dallas" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114800/
Hat
Hat of tan felt. Style resembles a garrison cap. Inner headband of dark brown grosgrain ribbon. Unlined. Maker's label on inside headband: "Jacqueline / Dallas" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114801/
Cartwheel Hat
Cartwheel hat of black velvet with small, flat crown. Wide brim is covered with black feathers radiating from crown. Elastic band for securing hat to wearer's head. Designer's label: "Edward Paine / New York" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114892/
Hat
Hat of colored knitted yarn. Tall, conical crown with flattened top. Crown has horizontal bands of knitting in browns, blues, and beige, alternating with bands of "puffed" yarn areas of blue, pink, beige, and brown. No brim. Unlined, but with inner brown grosgrain ribbon hatband. Designer's label sewn to inner hatband: "John Frederics Inc / New York" and "Made in America". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114794/
Hat
Hat of brown straw with high crown surrounded with beige feathers and a pink satin bow on side. Narrow brim. Elastic band for securing hat to wearer's head. Unlined with grosgrain ribbon inner headband. Maker's label: "an original / Vogue Hat / by Garfunkel" Handwritten style number(?) on inner headband: "59.397" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114790/
Hat
Hat of ultramarine blue felt. Based on a top hat, the cylindrical high crown has an undulating upper edge. Small brim curls up at front and sides, but curls down at back, ending in a point. Around base of crown is wide blue grosgrain ribbon which trails off back of hat. Inside of brim lined with black grosgrain ribbon. A thin black elastic strap goes around the back of the head to secure the hat. Label sewn into inner band: "Walter Florell / 29 East 53rd New York" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114797/
Hat
Tuque style, hand knitted cap of purple-brown yarn. Skullcap crown with side flaps to cover ears. Unlined. Manufacturer's label: "Henry / a la / Pensée / Inc." digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114799/
Calotte
Hat of beige netting. The hat is styled as a calotte (also spelled "calot"), with low, domed crown made of layers of beige net ruffles, with hemmed edges. Designer's label inside: "Florence ... / Dallas". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114795/
Picture Hat
Picture hat of black silk. The hat is designed with a cylindrical crown, somewhat flattened at top, which is encircled at the base by a wide band of black grosgrain ribbon with bow and streamers at back. The top of the crown is enhanced with radiating lines of top stitching. The wide black silk brim curves down, and is made as two concentric sections, each with decorative top stitching creating layered rays. "Marguerite / Yvonne / 509 Madison Ave / New York" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114748/
Cloche Hat
Cloche style hat made of light blue knitted chenille yarn. Bow of same on side. Designer's label on inside at back: "Frank Olive" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114783/
Picture Hat
Picture hat of light tan straw. The hat has a high, conical crown that is flattened at top. The wide straw brim curves up slightly from base of crown, then curves gently downwards to edge. At back of crown is large navy blue grosgrain ribbon bow, and around the top of the hat is a "cloud" of navy blue veiling. Hat is unlined, with inner light tan grosgrain ribbon inner hatband, and a black elastic cord to help secure hat to wearer's head. Designer's label inside: "John Frederics Inc / New York"; "Made in America"; and size label "22". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114788/
Calotte Hat
Calotte style hat of maroon straw trimmed with grosgrain ribbon. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114737/
Beret
Beret made of light blue knitted chenille yarn. Designer's label: "Frank Olive" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114784/
Hat
Hat of pale tan straw. The hat is formed as a domed crown, trimmed at lower edge with pale tan grosgrain ribbon. Unlined. Inner label: "Jacqueline / Dallas" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114798/
Turban
Turban style hat of black and pink striped satin with stuffed stand up pleated pouf in front. Lined in black net with black grosgrain ribbon inner headband. Designer's label: "Lilly Daché Paris / 78 East 58th St. New York" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114786/
Skirt Suit
Two-piece daytime skirt suit of Mexican homespun cotton consisting of: A) Jacket. Body of jacket is purple, long sleeves and collarless yoke of green, with a narrow band of rose inserted below yoke in front. Jacket has padded shoulders and is slightly fitted, and closes with hooks and eyes in front. Small string tie at waist. Fully lined in purple silk. Designer label inside: "Adrian / Original" B) Skirt. Skirt is purple, below knee-length, of slim design flaring slightly. Was altered to lengthen, and then restored to original length. Side zipper closure, and waistband has snap and two hook-and-eye closures. No Labels. A hat was made to go with the suit by Henry's, Dallas, accession number 1967.002.003 digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc283669/
Jacket
Jacket of navy blue wool crepe. Asymmetrically trimmed with pleated band falling from right shoulder, secured with white buckle at waistline. Self belt at waist with matching white buckle. Long sleeved with pleated diagonal at lower right sleeve. Designer's label: "Adrian / Original" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc283688/
Jacket
Woman's jacket of purple wool with asymmetrical curved inset at right shoulder. Two bound slit pockets below shoulder. Center front closure with 3 buttons and bound buttonholes. Two slit pockets at hips with an asymmetrical inset over left pocket. Designer's label: "Adrian / Original" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc283694/
Skirt Suit
Skirt suit of brownish grey worsted wool in black, white, and warm grey. Jacket of self-worsted wool with notched collar and rounded lapels that extend beyond collar; open front trimmed in half-circle lapels at opening with brass disc button accents; 4 buttons on each side decreasing in diameter to bottom; wide, elbow-length sleeves with 3” cuffs; small shoulder pads within; fully lined in brown chiffon; waist-length. Skirt of matching self-worsted wool is gored with long reverse pleat at center-front surrounded by 2 shorter reverse pleats at each side; slight A-line; hits below knees. Designer's label: "Adrian / Original" Original customer label(?): "James L. Courtney" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc283697/
Skirt Suit
Black wool two-piece skirt suit. A) Jacket. Just below hip-length, with center front opening with three hook-and-eye closures. Faux tie of same fabric at waist. Slight collar, and v-neckline. Thin orange/red inset line across front and up to shoulders. Long sleeves with inset orange/red panels along length of sleeves, with cording detailing and zipper closures at cuffs. Slit pockets just below waist. Designer's label: "Adrian / Original" B) Skirt of matching black wool. Street length. Possibly a replacement for the original skirt. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc283687/
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