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  Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
 Decade: 1920-1929
 Collection: Texas Fashion Collection
Cloche
Cloche of beige straw. The domed crown is of Milan straw in a small braid. The wide brim is folded up against the hat, and is formed of similar straw work but in concentric bands of beige and darker brown, forming horizontal stripes across the forehead of the hat. Around the base of the crown, visible from sides and back, is a wide band of cream/beige grosgrain ribbon. A pleated "arrow" of the same ribbon is affixed at right temple, extending up and back along the side of the crown. Inside of crown lined in cream/beige fabric. No designer's, maker's, or retailer's labels in item. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39114/
Cloche
Cloche hat of beige straw. The cloche is based on a Phrygian cap, although lacking the forward-pointing section at top. It is of crocheted beige straw thread. The crown is rounded, coming to a gentle point at to, and with sides that extend downwards to cover the ears. At the front is a crescent-shaped panel of printed chiffon which extends back and down sides of hat. The panel is printed with an abstract floral/foliate design in greens, reds, blues, and golds on a beige ground. Outlining the printed design is applied beige and gold cording, which are couched and sewn to the panel. The sides of the hat are embellished with vertical tucks, and the back has sections turned up and sewn to the crown. The hat is lined in a peach satin. Sewn inside crown is brand label: "Sheila / The Perfect Hat". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39119/
Cloche
Cloche hat of beige straw. The high, domed crown is created of fine beige straw which has been crocheted. At the base of the crown is a wide band of beige grosgrain ribbon edged with a very thin ribbon band, with a finely pleated section to one side. The cloche has a small brim, mostly down-turned. Over the entire crown and brim is sewn thin "ribbon" bands in a different type and shade of straw, forming several large leaf forms and filling the rest of the space with scrolling decoration. The interiors of the leaf forms are hand-painted in blue, purple, brown and green. The interior of the crown is lined in a tan/copper fabric, and the underside of the brim is lined in a cream fabric. There are no labels in the hat. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39116/
Coat
Coat of floral brocade and blue velvet. The mid-length wrap coat is made of Jacquard woven silk(?)in a pattern of flowers in blues, taupe, and browns on a dark brown ground, with metallic gold stitching throughout. The raglan sleeves and the collar are edged in wide bands of gathered ruched aqua blue/green velvet. Center front opening with no closures. The coat is lined in aqua blue/green velvet. No labels in garment. Owned by Mrs. Carlton L. Yager of California, aunt of the donor, who called it her "Opera Coat". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30232/
Evening Coat
Evening coat of black and gold brocade in a large scale tropical motif. The wrap-style coat has a shawl collar of red fox fur with kimono style sleeves trimmed in fox. The coat is fully lined in gold silk velvet. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc29997/
Hat
Black nylon hat. Domed, cylindrical crown has an irregularly-shaped brim, very narrow at left side, extending out and down in back, very wide and turning up in a triangular section at right side, and extending outwards at front. The turned-up section is embellished with simulated jet beading in a stylized floral pattern. The hat is lined in black nylon. Stamped inside crown: "Patricia / Model Hats / New York and Paris" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39072/
Hat
Hat of gray velvet. The domed crown is made from six segments of gray velvet, sewn in bands extending from front to back. The brim, of matching felt, is set off-center to the crown, giving more brim in front than back. The front of the brim turns up somewhat, and has an embellishment of long dark brown feathers extending along the brim from a dark brown velvet bow set on the underside of the brim. The hat is lined in a bronze brown crepe, and has an inner hatband of brown grosgrain ribbon along the inside lower edge of the crown. A small contrasting stitch on the inner hatband indicates the front of the hat. Designer's/Retailer's label sewn to inner hatband: "Made to order hat / Bergdorf / Goodman / Fifth Ave at 58th" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39179/
Dress
Child’s "Flower Girl" dress made from pieces of Irish lace. Knee-length, the dress has a round neckline and short sleeves which are slit along the lower 7 1/2" of length. The lower part is slightly A-line with scalloped lower edge, and has one horizontal section mid-way between waist and hem made to have a ribbon threaded through. The center back opening has a 7 1/2" slit at neckline, and a single snap closure. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc461883/
Handbag
Handbag. Rectangular silver art deco openwork frame set with tiny marcasites and circular cabochon black stones (onyx?). Bag is of black silk velvet. Handle of black silk velvet with two silver rings set with marcasites. Lined with dusty pink ribbed silk, and containing a small rectangular mirror. Marked on frame: "MD" in a square; Diamond shaped mark with an M over a K; and an illegible shield-shaped punch. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30047/
Cloche
Cloche hat of royal blue velvet and silver lace. The cylindrical crown is of royal blue velvet, slightly domed and slightly "crushed". The top panel of the crown is of silver lace over a dark fabric. Around the sides of the crown, nearer the top than the base, is a horizontal band of the same silver lace. The shallow brim is constructed of the royal blue velvet and overlaid with the silver lace, which extends beyond the edge of the velvet. The crown is lined in a cream/iridescent satin; most of the underside of the brim is lined with blue velvet. Maker's label embroidered to center inner lining panel of crown: [pseudo coat of arms] "The Denver Dry Goods Co. / Paris New York / Denver", with small embroidered "FRONT" indicating the front of the hat. Retailer's label sewn to inner side of crown: "Parisian / Abilene, Tex." digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39107/
Crocheted Cap
Crocheted cap of brown cotton yarn styled as a pillbox. The hemispherical crown is flat at top and slopes to base. The hat has no brim and is unlined. Stuck through the sides of the crown are two brass hatpins formed as over-sized hairpins. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114817/
Pumps
Heeled pumps of black leather. Vamp has shaped leather segment simulating a buckle, embellished with cut steel bead trim. Narrow 2 1/4" high Boulevard-style heel covered in black leather. Marked in each shoe: "6 1/2 AA B 85814 / 2418" Label in right shoe: "Special / Measurements / By W.B. Coon Co." digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114830/
Hat
Hat of blue straw. The hat is of finely woven blue straw, having a crown styled somewhat as a cloche, high, rounded, and somewhat irregular, curving inward at base. The crown has several applied blue straw 3-lobed bows scattered over the surface. The brim is of dark blue crepe over a fine white straw mesh base (visible only from inside crown), the crepe also covering the lower part of the crown. The brim is set off-center to crown, with wider section to front and narrower sections at back and sides. Applied to the crepe are several of the 3-lobed straw bows and two bordering bands near edge of brim, consisting of thin woven bands of blue straw. The underside of the brim is covered with the blue crepe, while the inside of the crown is unlined. There are no labels or tags in the hat. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39103/
Hat
Hat of burnt orange/rust colored straw. The domed crown is of finely woven burnt orange/rust colored straw with secondary horizontal bands of slightly larger strands woven into the base material. At its base, the crown curves in, under, down and out, creating a "mushroom" effect, with the main part of the crown as the "cap", and a smaller section of "stalk" below. The oval brim is of the same woven straw, and set off-center to the crown, creating a much wider brim at sides and back, and a smaller brim in front. The edge of the brim is edged in coarl colored silk. The hat is unlined. There are no labels or tags in the hat. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39104/
Dress
Evening dress of orange/tangerine silk chiffon with cut velvet fish scale design in silvery white partly outlined with silver bugle beads. Sleeveless, with round scoop neck, and armholes cut to waist. Straight tubular shape with drop waist, with a swag of pleated self-fabric at left hip, trimmed with five rhinestone medallions. 1" fur trim at hem. Dress has been shortened and fur may have been added at that time. Probably originally 1918-20's style. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30088/
Hat
Hat of silver metallic mesh cloth. The hat is formed as a pillbox-style turban. The cylindrical crown has a flattened top, and two long trailing bands hanging from the back. The bands are designed to wrap around the head, and clasp with integral rhinestone-set buckles. The hat is unlined. There are no labels or tags in the hat. Probably from France. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39070/
Hat
Hat of sienna/reddish silk taffeta. Styled somewhat as a cloche, the cylindrical crown is "collapsed", creating the effect that it has been partly flattened, with horizontal creasing. Top of crown is flat. Around the sides is horizontal bands of stitching in gold metallic thread. Appliqued to the front and sides of the hat are velvet blossoms and leaves in greens, rust reds/oranges, etc. At base of crown is a band of rubbed rust red/orange. The narrow brim is lined in same rust red/orange velvet, and is turned up at back allowing it to be seen. The crown is lined in a golden orange satin fabric. No labels in item. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39123/
High-Heeled Shoes
One pair of woman's high-heeled shoes with split t-strap, forming an inverted "V" from vamp to strap. The shoes are covered in a metallic copper/bronze silk textured weave and edged in gold metallic finished leather. The Boulevard set-under heels are lacquered with a metallic gold finish and set with rhinestones. One shoe with label inside: "Wise Shoe / For Every Occasion" Both shoes with hand-marked notations: "6 1/2 aa / D30014 / 11-564" Some rhinestones on the heels have been replaced at some point in the past with other rhinestones that do not quite match the original stones. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30053/
Hat
Hat of red velvet and bronze/green gold gauze. Hat is styled as a turban, the crown of red velvet with various folds and puffs. Around the sides of the crown are braided bands of the same velvet and of a bronze/green gold gauze, giving the edge of the hat the appearance of being a turban wound in two different fabrics. Original lining missing(?), revealing the inner lining of loosely woven white fabric stitched to hold the folds and bands of cloth. No designer's, maker's, or retailer's labels in the item. Item may be of either British or American manufacture. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39125/
Evening Dress
Evening dress of embroidered silk organza with pink silk acetate lining and belt; square neckline; sleeveless with rhinestone embellished velvet straps attached by rhinestone snaps in front and back; velvet trim; three tiers with pink floral embroidery; pink velvet belt embellished with rhinestones and a velvet flower digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30052/
Cloche
Cloche hat of black silk velvet. The rigid crown has a flattened top, and sides formed of gathers of the velvet forming horizontal ridges. The brim is a soft, gathered and padded "ruffle" of the same velvet. The hat is lined in a black satin. Sewn inside crown is retailer's label: "Neiman-Marcus Co. / Dallas New York". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39068/
Cloche
Cloche of black velour. The domed crown is of "crumpled" black velour encircled at the base by a band of silver ribbon. The narrow brim is curled up at the edge and sides, and is lined with a multicolored brocade with metallic threads as accents. On right side of hat, near base of crown, is a large pompom of black feathers. Set near the pompom is a pin of black composition/plastic and silvered metal in the form of a hook (partly missing?). The crown of the hat is lined with greyish silk embroidered in gold. Maker's and Retailer's label embroidered inside crown: "Paris New York / Jaccard / Hats / Made expressly for / Neiman-Marcus Co. / Dallas" Paper label stapled to lining: "Sanger Bros. / Dallas, - Texas / 226-1 / 10-26 / $35.00 / 30.00" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39124/
Hat
Hat of lavender horsehair overlaid with lace and velvet. The daytime hat has a high, domed crown of braided/woven horsehair. Around the sides of the crown is a band of pale lavender velvet overlaid with a band of dark blue velvet, which itself is partly overlaid by pale blue lace. Around the back of the crown is a band of pale blue velvet, a section of which is also at the base of the crown at the front of the hat. The brim is of the same horsehair, and stitched up in back to create the effect of having the brim extend around sides and front, but not the back. The brim is overlaid with lace as the crown. At left side of hat, along base of crown, is a small embellishment consisting of two tubular beads and three circular beads set with rhinestones. The hat is lined in blue satin. Retailer's(?) paper label attached inside crown at back: "Sanger Bros. / Dallas - Texas", with original price of $20.00. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39151/
Hat
Cloche hat of blue-green velvet. An early example of the cloche hat, it has a narrow up-turned brim. All around the crown is floral decoration carried out in beading, applique, and embroidery. Also with thin lines of gold thread sewn throughout. The edges of the brim are similarly decorated. Remains of silk lining. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39148/
Hat
Hat of ecru lace and black horsehair. The high, slightly domed crown is formed of ecru lace, with a black satin ribbon bow to side, and a black satin band around the base of the crown, partly obscured by the lace. The wide, undulating black horsehair brim is oval, wider to sides than front to back. Inside of crown originally lined with fine, transparent black tulle, remains of which form an inner hatband at inside base of crown. Maker's label sewn to inner hatband: "Paris / della Donna / New York". Intended for afternoon wear. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39150/
Hat
Calotte with braided yellow ribbon crown with brown and dark brown knotted yarn brim. Designer's label on inside brim: "J. Suzanne Talbot / Modes / 14 Rue Royale Paris" Maker's label : "34064" Label on inside brim: "made in france" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39135/
Hat
Small child's hat of blue and white checked gingham. Buttoned on, detachable brim with 7 small white buttons. Crown gathered by drawstring. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39132/
Cloche
Cloche of beige silk. The domed brim is of beige silk top-stitched and quilted to a base of grayish felt. The stitching is in the form of repeated and spiraling lines. At base of crown is wide band of brown grosgrain ribbon with bow at front. The brim is of the same material as crown, is shallow, and turns downward. It frames the face, with triangular extensions at sides. Hat is unlined. There are no labels or tags in the hat. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39121/
Cloche
Cloche hat of straw. The high, domed straw is crown of sienna-red braid, with a band of solid reddish-pink silk around the base. Below the silk band is multi-colored ruched trim extending less than 1/4" from the band. Below the trim is a brim covered by sienna grosgrain ribbon, extending very slightly in front and disappearing in back. The hat is lined in a metallic bronze fabric. No designer's or retailer's labels, but hat does retain original price tag inside crown. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39113/
Cap
Hat of striped silk satin. Formed as a baseball cap, the crown is a dome created by 5 triangular segments of cream silk satin with green and thin black stripes. The cloth is cut and arranged so the stripes run vertically to top of crown. The brim is formed as a cap's bill, larger than usual, of the same striped material, with the stripes running from crown to front edge. The hat is unlined, with a small loop sewn in to hang cap. Label inside crown: "Made in France". Made to match a 2-piece ensemble of slacks and waistcoat in the same materials. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39095/
Cloche
Cloche hat of tan linen. The off-the-face cloche has a high, domed crown embellished with white saddle stitching along seams. The brim is of the same material, folded up at front and descending down at sides and is turned down at back. At center back is a separation in the brim, with a small tan linen bow between the sections. The hat is unlined, with a brown grosgrain ribbon inner hatband inside the base of the crown. Maker's label sewn to inner hatband: "Reproduction / Rose Descat / 22 Rue Royale / Paris"; Second label sewn to inner hatband: "Made in France" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39139/
Cloche and Scarf Set
Cloche hat of embroidered pink linen. The slightly domed crown is made of pink linen with all-over tiny white embroidered polka-dots. The matching brim is turned up at front, sewn to crown, and descends at sides, turning downwards at back. At center back the brim is split, with a bow of the same fabric affixed at the split. The hat is lined with white silk. There are no labels or tags in the hat. The hat is accompanied by a necktie/scarf of the same fabric. Original records indicate the set is probably French in origin. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39142/
Hat
Beret of hand knit white yarn with folded side tab trim of white linen on left and right. Unlined. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39143/
Hat
Calotte of rust brown knit with rolled straw brim in browns and gold. Designer's label on inside hatband: "Agnes / 6 Rue St Florentin / Paris" Label above designer's label: "Made in France" Size label on inside hatband: "22 1/2" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39134/
Hat
Small girl's homemade hat with wire frame. Yellow dotted Swiss cotton crown. White organdy brim and hatband. Edges embroidered with narrow lace ruffle underneath. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39133/
Coat
Coat of black wool felt, 3/4 length, with long sleeves. In bands above wrist and two bands above hem are rows of knitted wool material in checkered patterns of cream, orange, grey and black forming an almost plaid pattern. Center front opening with one large circular button and loop closure. Long, shawl collar of black fur trim. Fully lined in light brown/copper damask in square and diamond pattern on upper part of coat and black damask in circles and squares pattern on lower part with connecting band of horsehair braid. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc503804/
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