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  Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
 Decade: 1910-1919
 Collection: Texas Fashion Collection
Toque of black velvet. The circular crown is of black velvet, gathered at top and crafted to create wrinkles. Brim at sides and front folds up to form "visor" at front of crown, on which are artificial berries, flowers, and leaves. Hat is lined with black satin. Maker's mark stamped inside crown, partly faded/worn: Perry Hat Shoppe / Perry, NY."
High Button Shoes
Pair of lady's boots or "High Button Shoes" of black suede. The shoes, designed with pointed toes, are embellished with subtle rows of perforations and stitching. Each boot closes along center front with laces, 19 holes high. Medium/high heels styled as a modified boulevard or Louis heel, with rounded sides and back, flaring to base, and with curved front section. Sole of black leather. Hand-written notation inside on lining: "270 85434"
Pair of woman's white canvas shoes. Designed with slightly pointed toes and a rounded edge at the vamp, the shoes have a single strap across the instep secured with a circular glass button with steel(?) shank. Thick canvas-covered heel shaped as a modified Cuban heel, rounded at sides and back, curved at front, and tapering slightly to base. Sole of leather, originally white/pale, worn to brown. No designer's or retailer's labels. Stamped inside of each: "455 .199 59 [star] / D8083 82566"
High Button Shoes
Pair of lady's boots or "High Button Shoes" of black leather. The shoes, designed with pointed toes, close along center front with laces, 19 holes high. Medium/high heels styled as a modified boulevard or Louis heel, with rounded sides and back, flaring to base, and with curved front section. Sole of black leather. Stamped on lining: "350 760 / 3027 [monogram]"
Hat of gray and cream brocade and black velvet. The high, domed crown is formed of cream and gray brocade, in a stylized pattern of geometric lines and floral forms, recalling Chinese patterns. The oval brim is set off-center, turning up high at front and only slightly at back. Set on the brim are three black velvet bows. The upper side of the brim is of the brocade, while the underside is lined in black velvet. The inside of the crown is lined with a black satin. Retailer's label is sewn inside crown: "Egner / 501 Gordon & Koppel Bldg / Kansas City".
Hat of white felt fur. The domed crown is almost totally covered by ostrich feathers, dyed pale green with violet edges. The brim turns up at ends, and supports lavish embellishments consisting of artificial flowers of various colors of velvet, more dyed ostrich feathers, and a violet silk taffeta bow. The crown and brim, under the added decorations, is covered in a fine black net/veiling, which extends under the brim and into the inside of the crown. The crown is unlined, showing the fur. Maker's paper label partially preserved, attached inside crown: "[Monogram mark RAC(?)] / New York". Label also lists style, "Anita", and price of $4.00.
Hat of ivory/ecru panne velvet, black fur, ivory lace, and a black plume. The crown is of low, crushed ivory or ecrue panne velvet, with a lower border of black fur. The wide brim had an inner wire framework covered with ivory lace, edged with the same black fur. Extending from lower edge of crown at side to off of the edge of the brim is a large black plume. Crown is lined with ivory/ecru satin, with gathered section at center. There are no labels in the hat. Gift of Margaret Baker. From the trousseau of Mrs. Thomas Elmer Braniff.
Hat of white fur felt. The body of the hat is a single large piece of white fur felt. The domed crown is encircled at it's base by two wide scarves, one of black silk, the other of black and cream striped silk. The two scarves overlap, with trailing ends, and are held together at back by a "knot" embellished with black beading. The wide brim extends around the hat, turning up at the edges. The hat is unlined, the fur extending around the brim but not into the crown. There are no labels or maker's marks.
Hat of black velvet. Designed as a modified sailor's hat, with a shallow cylindrical black velvet crown with slightly domed top. The wide, flat, black velvet-covered brim has an inner wire form, visible where velvet has been damaged. At side of crown is a spray of black/green cock feathers with a black velvet ribbon bow. The underside of the brim is covered in black velvet, while the crown is lined in black satin. There are no labels in the hat.
Hat of plum colored velvet. Designed as a modified cloche, the low domed crown consists of two layers, "puffed" out and shirred to create gathers and folds. Between the layers is a band of ribbon trim with purple/plum dyed ostrich plumes, which form a "fringe" around the hat. The lower "puff" acts as brim. Lined in black fabric. There are no maker's, designer's, or retailer's labels or marks in the piece.
Hat of black velvet. The domed crown is of shirred black velvet with spiraling lines of quilting. Around the base of the crown is a band of black grosgrain ribbon, with bow and trailing ribbons at side. The wide brim is slightly undulating, with wired edge. The hat is lined in black satin. There are no labels or tags in the hat.
Purse. Ornate bell-shaped silver (plated?) frame with openwork latticework set with red and blue cabochons and with silver (plated?) chain. Body of purse is of crocheted gray with vertical stripes of horizontal rows of faceted blue beads. Bottom of bag with fringe formed of loops of matching beading. Lined in gray satin with roses and vine trim.
Handbag of bronze, brass and aqua metal beads in floral pattern. Rectangular shape, Art Nouveau silver frame with white and green enamel with red, blue, and light green cabochons. Filigree snap closure has large, circular green cabochon. Fringe of self with ends finished in clusters of 3 brass beads. Double chain handle can be worn as single to extend handle longer.
Picture Hat
Picture hat of black velvet with domed crown and wide brim edged in black satin. Hatband of pleated black satin. Bright green ostrich feathers on left side of crown. Lined in pink fabric. Designer's label: "Mae Kelley / Exclusive Hand Made Hats / Whittier, Calif." Retailer's label: "Yvonne / Hats / California"
Handbag. Arched frame of silver (plated?), lightly chased and engraved. Openwork areas on sides of frame allow rings from suspension chain to slide up and down acting as "locks". Mesh bag with enameled design of flowers. Inside bag are makers tag marked: "Mesh / Whiting & Davis Co. / Bags / Reg. U.S. & Can." and brand tag marked "El Sah".
Purse / Handbag for afternoon use. Rectangular plain polished gunmetal / steel frame with ball/snap closure and matching chain of elongated links. Body of purse formed of gunmetal / steel mesh, with linked chain latticework along bottom edge, terminating in small spheres. Purse of gunmetal mesh, suitable for afternoon use. Inside of frame is engraved "Bessie H. Brown" and "Dallas Texas 4205 Swiss Avenue"
Hat of velvet and golden weave cloth. The domed crown is covered in a woven golden cloth shot through with metallic threads. Around the base of the crown is a wide hatband of a similar fabric in the form of a dense ribbon, forming a large bow at front. Set in behind the bow is a semi-circular fan spray of fine white feathers. The wide, circular, slightly floppy brim is of black velvet. The inside of the crown is lined in a dark blue/black satin material. Maker's label stamped in gold on inner lining of crown: "Mme. J. Dagnet / French Millinery / 206 St. Paul St. / Dallas.
Hat of chocolate brown velour with wide, rolled brim. Soft crushed matching crown with band and large bow on side. Lacquered coque feathers underneath brim. Feathered underside of brim has applique scroll work of same feathers.
Hat of brown velvet with wide soft crown. Wide brim folded back on both sides at the front with gathered velvet lining. Horsehair trim on brim. Retailer's label on inside crown: "Sanger Bros / Dallas - Waco"
Dance Pumps
Pair of lady's dance pumps in white satin. The shoes are of white satin with large bow at vamp and a second bow on the strap which buttons across instep of each shoe. Low/flat heels. White leather insole, and sides lined with white fabric. Retailer's stamp on sole: "S.G. Maddox / Weatherford, Texas." Stamped inside: "4 D 520"
Silver mesh purse with cathedral arch frame etched with scroll filigree. Ball and socket clasp. Ball finials at each corner of tri-corner bottom. Mesh band handle with slide adjustment stamped with a four petal flower. Interior of frame stamped: "Mesh / Whiting & Davis / Bags" and "Sterling"
Boy's Suit (Jacket and Pants)
Boy's suit of olive green wool tweed with gold flecks and small blue and white vertical stripes. A) Jacket. Triangular, placket front is bordered with black twill tape and has a vertical, center insert of red wool bordered with black braid. Four gilded brass buttons on each side of placket with right side closure having tailored buttonholes. 1-1/2" belt of self attaches at bottom button. Long, set-in sleeves are trimmed with two, smaller, nonfunctional matching buttons. Turn down collar closes with 2 hook & eyes. Bow tie of black silk faille. Horizontal, double welt pockets at side. Body of jacket is lined with black polished cotton and sleeves are lined in cotton fabric in stripes of light gray with thin green stripes. B) Short pants of matching tweed. Closes with a single brown button on each side of waist above pockets. Single slit pocket on the back at right. Sides of legs trimmed with 3 matching, nonfunctional buttons. Interior cotton satin waistband has 8 vertical buttonholes and is stamped: "Aletor(?) Waist Band / Patented / June 29, 1896 / 3 / Brooklyn, N. Y." Front lined in brown polished cotton.
Evening Coat
Evening coat of cream/ecru wool with beige velvet accents and braided cream cord trim. Full length; center front opening with single hook & eye closure. Wide, 3/4 length dolman sleeves with velvet cuffs. Silk cord in scroll and chain pattern outlined front, sleeves and back to waist. Two inside pockets; ivory silk lining.
Chinese jacket of red damask silk with multicolored embroidery. Almost knee-length, with long sleeves. Floral damask pattern, embroidery of flowers, moths(?), foliage, and other symbols. Angled center front opening bordered with blue, fastened with carved/chased gold sphere buttons and loops. Around opening, hem, collar, and cuffs is embroidered band in blues and white scrolls, with outer border of gold and black. Lined in pink silk. No labels.
Infant's Ensemble (Dress and Slip)
Infant's ensemble of fine white persian lawn consisting of: A) Infant's dress of white batiste cotton. Full length dress gathers into square yoke with narrow, vertical rows of fine eyelet and hair pin lace. Two rows of pin tucking separated by two rows of eyelet and hair pin lace matching yoke at bottom with 2-1/2" ruffle of scalloped eyelet lace at hem. Round neckline trimmed in lace. Long sleeves with lace at hem; center back opening. B) Slip of white batiste cotton. Neckline and armholes trimmed in lace. Full length. Narrow row of pin tucks and row of eyelet and hair pin lace matching dress with matching ruffle of scalloped, eyelet at hem. Closure of mother-of-pearl buttons at shoulders. No labels in garment.
Wedding Slippers
Pair of wedding slippers of off-white/cream kid leather. Shoes have rounded toes, and three straps crossing vamp, each secured with small domed white glass buttons. Straps, vamp, and upper edges of shoes all edged with off-white silk stitching. Across vamp is small silk faille bow ornamented with white glass beads. Low 1 1/2" heel is a modified cuban or Louis heel, covered with white leather. "Volk's, Dallas, Texas" is stamped on inside. Partly illegible numbers stamped on inside.
Chinese Ensemble - Jacket and Pants
Chinese ensemble of blue silk with multi-colored embroidery.consisting of: A) Jacket/Bodice. Knee-length, A-line, standing collar, long sleeves with white cuffs embroidered with scenes of Chinese people in various situations. Center front opening with black frogs fastened with spherical gold buttons. Wide band at collar and part of front opening, and hem with embroidery of figures on brown ground. Field of jacket with large multi-colored embroidered flowers and butterflies. B) Pants. Matching. Drawstring waist. Full-length, with matching embroidery, but only on lower legs. Cuffs with wide band of white embroidered with foliage and moths.
Afternoon Dress
Afternoon dress of dark green silk satin, crepe and chiffon. The tunic-style dress of dark green silk satin is street-length, with a drop waist. It has a slight standing collar at back which extends out in front to become long ties with a backing of dark maroon. Below the bow formed by the ties is V-shaped neckline. The full-length sleeves are dark green silk satin from shoulders to elbows and are translucent green crepe from elbows to cuffs. The main part of the gauze sections are embroidered with floral motifs in red, pink, and green/gold. The sleeves have two snaps at each cuff, which are trimmed with bands of pink crepe, maroon crepe, and dark green satin. On the front of the skirt are three wide, slightly overlapping tiers of fabric, split at center front, which start below the hips and end slightly above the hem. The dress is unlined, and there are no tags or labels.