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  Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
 Decade: 1910-1919
 Collection: Texas Fashion Collection
Shoes

Shoes

Date: 1910/1920
Creator: unknown
Description: Pair of lady's shoes of black silk. The shoes, designed as modified D'Orsay pumps with pointed toes, are of black silk with cut-away areas at sides. Toe-box with opening at vamp and "T"-strap extending from vamp to connect with strap across instep that extends from heel area. Instep strap secures on outer side of shoe with circular button. Tear-drop shaped cut-outs on either side near heel. Lined in black silk. Medium high heels styled as a modified boulevard or Louis heel, with rounded sides and back, flaring to base, and with very slightly curved front section. Heels covered with matching black silk on sides and back. Sole of tan leather. There are no marks or labels on the shoes.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Shoe

Shoe

Date: 1916?
Creator: unknown
Description: Single shoe of tan damask weave cloth and black leather. Shoe designed with pointed toe, the toebox and heel of black leather, the rest of the upper in textured tan cloth. Across instep is wide strap with flaring ends to which is applied an ornate cut/stamped steel simulated buckle. Strap secures with buttons. Modified stacked Louis heel. Stamped inside: "The H&S. Pogue Co. / Cincinnati"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Boots

Boots

Date: 1919
Creator: Wichert
Description: Pair of lady's boots of black leather. The "high button shoes" are designed with pointed toes, slightly rounded at tips. The boots lace up along the front with 18 holes. Lined at with black fabric. Modified Louis or boulevard heels, rounded at sides and back, flaring to base, and curved at front. Black leather soles. Embroidered logo inside: "[Part lion/part fish symbol] / Wichert / New York"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Pumps

Pumps

Date: 1919
Creator: unknown
Description: Pair of pumps of black leather. The shoes are designed with pointed toe and plain leather upper. The 2" heel is of modified Louis style, covered with black leather and flaring at base. Retailer label: "Sanger Brothers / Dallas - Waco"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Wedding Slippers

Wedding Slippers

Date: 1919?
Creator: unknown
Description: Pair of wedding slippers of ivory silk satin. Shoes have pointed toes and slight "rolled edge" stitched accent along top of shoe. 2" high modified Louis or cuban heel, flaring to base. Retailer's mark stamped on insole: "Thayer-McNeil Company / Boston" Handwritten inside shoe: "7054 / 4 1/2 aa / 20942"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Handbag

Handbag

Date: 1910/1925
Creator: unknown
Description: Handbag of multi-colored glass beads of boldly colored, somewhat stylized floral design. Bronze frame cast with floral forms and openwork, and set with navy blue and green rhinestones. Roses on frame have remains of applied coloration. Suspension chain in rope form with spaced clusters of green and blue beads. Bag has fringe at bottom composed of loops of green and black faceted beads. Off-white satin lining, mostly deteriorated.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Handbag

Handbag

Date: 1910?
Creator: unknown
Description: Beaded handbag. Rectangular gilt metal frame with suspension chain and ball closure. Body of bag is covered with multi-colored glass beads forming a picture of a bird and flowers amid scrolling forms, same image on each side. Bottom of bag with blue beaded loops of fringe. Interior lining of blue satin, with attached circular mirror on a ribbon. European, either Paris or Vienna.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Hat

Hat

Date: 1910/1920
Creator: unknown
Description: Small cartwheel-style hat. Cylindrical crown of gold and ochre/brown brocade with irregular folds. Circular stiff brown velour brim, not as wide as a typical cartwheel hat but in the same style. Affixed to the crown near the brim on one side is a cluster of three cloth flowers and a sprig of cloth leaves. Affixed to the other side is a plume of brown ostrich feathers. Inside of crown lined in black silk. Embroidered inside crown is maker's marks, including an oval frame containing a monogram, possibly RSCM, and "Gold Medal / Pattern"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Hat

Hat

Date: 1910/1919
Creator: unknown
Description: Beret style hat of navy velvet. Small brim. Lined in black fabric gathered to center.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Shoes

Shoes

Date: 1918
Creator: unknown
Description: Pair of woman's shoes of black leather and black suede. The black leather toe sections of the shoes are designed with gently rounded points. The back part of the shoes, and the single strap across the instep, are of black suede. Each of the straps secure with two circular iridescent black buttons. Shoes are lined in tan cloth inside toes, black leather insoles, and black fabric inside heels. Soles of black and tan leather. Medium heel of modified French style, with rounded sides and back, and slightly curving inner side. Stamped in gilt on insole: "Bench / Volk's / Made". Hand-written notation inside shoes: "6C / 18638 / 29"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Sunbonnet

Sunbonnet

Date: 1910
Creator: unknown
Description: Sunbonnet of blue cotton with white lace trim. The brim is slightly square-shaped and heavily starched. The top of the crown is stitched to the brim in a flat seam, with fullness created in the lower crown through a set of 3 snaps on each side which fasten the crown to the brim, giving the lower crown a crenelated shape. The bonnet has no tail, and has self-fabric chin ties of blue ribbon. The left tie is formed from two pieces of fabric pieced together, while the right tie is of a single length of fabric. The ties are narrow hemmed, except for one side of a lower section of left tie, which is cut along the selvage and left unfinished. There are no labels or marks in the piece. The fact that this bonnet does not have a tail probably indicates that this was a visiting bonnet rather than a field bonnet. The TFC thanks Rebecca Jumper Matheson for her research on this object.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Hat

Hat

Date: 1910/1919
Creator: unknown
Description: Hat of black velvet and satin. The crown is formed of stiffened circlet of black mesh overlaid with black velvet. The top of the crown is in two parts. The front is covered with black satin, pleated along edge to create fullness. The back of the top is of black velvet, full, and crushed, forming a surface somewhat like a beret. There is no brim, but at front the crown flares out slightly giving the suggestion of a brim. The hat is lined in black satin which is in poor condition, allowing the inner structure to be viewed. There are no labels or marks in the hat.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Hat

Hat

Date: 1910/1919
Creator: unknown
Description: Hat of black velvet with soft brim and two ostrich pom-poms attached to left side. Hard velour stand decorated with jet surrounds a shirred crown. Retailer's label on inside crown: "Irwin's / Decor / Cincinnati / St. Louis"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Hat

Hat

Date: 1915/1918
Creator: unknown
Description: Woman's black velour top hat. Designed after a man's top hat, this version has a cylindrical, slightly domed crown and narrow velour-covered brim which gently curves up. The brim has a second section below, also covered in black velour, that curves downwards, giving the brim an appearance of thickness. Around the lower part of the crown is a folded black silk taffeta grosgrain ribbon, with a large simulated silver metal buckle placed near the front on the right side of the hat. The buckle is of stamped metal simulating cut steel. The hat is lined in black silk. Embroidered label sewn to lining inside crown includes an oval frame containing a monogram, possibly RSCM, and "Gold Medal / Pattern"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Dress

Dress

Date: 1914~
Creator: unknown
Description: Dress. Bodice of vertically striped blue and black satin with short sleeves in black. Shallow v-neck trimmed with band of gold net ribbon which continues down center of back to waist. Bodice has black band just below bust line as "hem". Below this hem is pleated sash of blue and black striped materials at raised waistline, and a second band of the striped material running vertically from below "hem" to under top tier of skirt. Mid-calf-length black skirt with two vertical tiers of long box pleats from waistline. Bodice is lined in cream silk(?) with wide ribbon inner waistband, with cream-trimmed pads added at underarms. Skirt is lined in black. Garment fastens down back from neck to mid-thigh with a series of hook-and-eye and hook-and-loop closures. Sash around waist fastens at center front and has hook-and-loop closures running around left side to back. Garment has no labels.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Shoes

Shoes

Date: 1917/1918
Creator: unknown
Description: Pair of lady's boots or "High Button Shoes" of dark brown leather. The shoes, designed with pointed toes, lace closed along center front with laces 16 holes high. Embellished at toe with cut steel beads forming interlacing bands and lines. Medium height heels styled as a modified boulevard or Louis heel, with rounded sides and back, tapering to center and then flaring out again at base, and with curved front section. Sole of black leather. Lined in black leather and off-white fabric. Retailer's(?) stamp inside, partly illegible: "Famous / Paris, Tex." Hand-written notation on lining: "38-1 80364" Sold by Famous Shoe Store, Paris Texas (est. 1891). Worn by Kennie Holt Rucker in 1917-1918. Donated by Mary Helen Rucker to the Historical Collection (North Texas State University,Denton, Tex.). Transferred to the Texas Fashion Collection.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Picture Hat

Picture Hat

Date: 1910/1920
Creator: unknown
Description: Picture hat of violet silk over straw body. The low, domed crown is surrounded by a wide brim, and overlaid by two wide, dyed violet ostrich feathers. The underside of the brim the lighter colored violet woven straw body of the hat. The crown is lined in black fabric, and has an attached cord to help secure hat to wearer's head. Retailer's label sewn inside crown: "Sanger Bros / Dallas and Waco / Texas"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Hat

Hat

Date: 1910/1915
Creator: unknown
Description: Hat of navy blue velvet. Cylindrical crown has slightly concave sides and somewhat domed crown that is gathered into sides in large pleats. Wide brim of matching velvet is of approximately oval shape, set somewhat off-center and with large "split" at side allowing for some overlap, and with rounded ends, one of which hangs below other when hat is worn. At split is navy blue dyed ostrich feather plume. Underside of brim is of same velvet, inside of crown lined with navy blue satin with drawstring opening at top of crown, which has inner lining of cream fabric. No designer's, maker's or retailer's labels in item.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Beaded Purse

Beaded Purse

Date: 1914
Creator: unknown
Description: Handbag of multicolored glass beads in floral garden pattern with birds. Silver metal frame in rectangular shape with red jeweled snap closure. Bag has rounded corners at bottom, transparent beaded fringe and chain handle. Pink satin lining. Trimmed with bead fringe.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Walking Shoes

Walking Shoes

Date: 1918
Creator: Foot-Schulze & Co. (St. Paul, Minnesota, USA)
Description: Walking shoes of tan and black leather. The rounded toe and vamp are of black polished leather, the heel and sides of tan kid leather. A single strap across the instep fastens with two circular buttons out outer side of shoe. Decorative black stitching around edges and across strap on tan leather. Insole of light brown leather, and the insides of the sides are lined in tan leather. heavy low stacked heel. Sole of black leather with heavy applied rubber heel. Maker's label stamped in silver on insole: "Foot Schulze & Co / St., Paul" Stamped notation on lining: "455 29100" Molded into bottom of heel: "WAUK LITE" and "8"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Toque

Toque

Date: 1915/1918
Creator: unknown
Description: Toque of black velvet. The circular crown is of black velvet, gathered at top and crafted to create wrinkles. Brim at sides and front folds up to form "visor" at front of crown, on which are artificial berries, flowers, and leaves. Hat is lined with black satin. Maker's mark stamped inside crown, partly faded/worn: Perry Hat Shoppe / Perry, NY."
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
High Button Shoes

High Button Shoes

Date: 1914
Creator: unknown
Description: Pair of lady's boots or "High Button Shoes" of black suede. The shoes, designed with pointed toes, are embellished with subtle rows of perforations and stitching. Each boot closes along center front with laces, 19 holes high. Medium/high heels styled as a modified boulevard or Louis heel, with rounded sides and back, flaring to base, and with curved front section. Sole of black leather. Hand-written notation inside on lining: "270 85434"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Shoes

Shoes

Date: 1914
Creator: unknown
Description: Pair of woman's white canvas shoes. Designed with slightly pointed toes and a rounded edge at the vamp, the shoes have a single strap across the instep secured with a circular glass button with steel(?) shank. Thick canvas-covered heel shaped as a modified Cuban heel, rounded at sides and back, curved at front, and tapering slightly to base. Sole of leather, originally white/pale, worn to brown. No designer's or retailer's labels. Stamped inside of each: "455 .199 59 [star] / D8083 82566"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
High Button Shoes

High Button Shoes

Date: 1914
Creator: unknown
Description: Pair of lady's boots or "High Button Shoes" of black leather. The shoes, designed with pointed toes, close along center front with laces, 19 holes high. Medium/high heels styled as a modified boulevard or Louis heel, with rounded sides and back, flaring to base, and with curved front section. Sole of black leather. Stamped on lining: "350 760 / 3027 [monogram]"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design