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  Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
 Decade: 1900-1909
 Collection: Texas Fashion Collection
Hat
Hat of off-white silk over straw base. The crown slightly rounded at top, covered in off-white silk, with ruching and folds around side. Affixed to sides of crown at various points are artificial flowers of various colors of velvet. The medium-width brim is circular, of woven straw, originally covered with off-white silk, now mostly perished. The inside of the crown is lined in off-white muslin, partly shattered, and the underside of the brim was originally lined in white silk, now mostly perished. There are no labels or marks in the hat. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39060/
Mourning Ensemble - Bodice and Skirt
Black silk mourning ensemble consisting of bodice and skirt. The bodice of black silk is fitted and boned, with a high, standing black silk band collar with appliqued black lace medallions. It has full-length, modified bishop sleeves that gather into the armseye. Below the gathered cap, in the portion corresponding to the upper arm, the fullness of the sleeve is controlled with top-stitched vertical tucks. From the elbow to the cuff the fullness is again released in a bishop sleeve silhouette. The sleeves gather again into wide black silk cuffs with appliqued black lace medallions and four narrow bands of black velvet ribbon. The bodice front is constructed on the lines of a bolero jacket, with a deep V-shaped opening and wide ruffled collar which is constructed of horizontally tucked black crepe-patterned silk. The released fullness of the tucking creates the ruffled finish. The ruffled portion is edged with two narrow bands of black velvet ribbon. The bodice front has a bib fill of gathered black silk and tulle net that is secured with hook-and-eyes beneath the left collar overlay. The fill area disguises the true front opening which is secured with thirteen hook-and-eyes. The main body of the bodice, front and back, is constructed of vertically tucked black silk that finishes in a wide black silk waistband which is appliqued with black lace medallions and edged in narrow black velvet ribbon. The waistband laps slightly left of center and secures with three hook-and-eyes. The bodice is fully lined with heavily boned glazed black cotton and has figure enhancing pads sewn over the bust and underarm areas and has a black cotton petersham that hooks at center front. There are two hooks at back waist-level to connect the bodice to the skirt. The matching seven-panel gored skirt is of black silk and has a narrow waistband with center back placket opening secured with three hook-and-eyes. The rear fullness pleats into the waistband and disguises the opening. Two rear hooks at the waistline connect the skirt to the bodice. The full hem is embellished with seven horizontal rows of narrow black velvet ribbon. The hem is faced with black velvet, and there is a built-in bustle pad. There are no labels in the garment. The mourning dress originally belonged to Margaret Louise Walker (b.1840-d.1903), who lived on the Walker Plantation outside of Aberdeen. Mississippi. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30264/
Fan
Folding fan. Thin polished wood or bamboo guards lacquered a dark mahogany. The thin sticks are dyed purple. Paper leaf with hand-painted abstract design of flowers and foliage on a reddish ground. Metal bail. Reverse is unadorned. No visible labels or marks. Gift of Mrs. Arthur Kramer, Sr., from the original Dallas Musuem of Fashion collection. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc38042/
Handbag
Handbag. Rectangular frame of cast openwork brass floral designs with traces of gilding. Ball and snap closure and gilt brass suspension chain. Bag is of dark purple crocheted silk, with three different types of beading. Area at frame is plain all-over beading of purple/bronze iridescent cut beads. Below this, and at bottom of bag is fringe of looped beading. The main body of the bag has vertical stripes of beads arranged in horizontal rows. Lined with bright purple silk, trimmed in gold cording. Contains a small gold kid leather purse embossed with a stylized thorn pattern. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30207/
Dress
Day dress of black silk taffeta. The dress, in the style of the Aesthetic or Reform Movement, is full-length, with a slender silhouette. The front and back of the bodice is styled of tiny vertical knife-pleats, which gather into the rounded neckline. The side panels of the bodice are plain, and there is a line of 14 snaps along the left side forming the closure. The long sleeves are smooth, with slight pleating at the padded shoulders, and they taper to the pointed wrists. The sleeves have 5 hidden snaps and a line of 12 domed non-functioning black taffeta covered buttons on each sleeve. Bodice and skirt are divided by a thin black band. Skirt is fully pleated with tiny vertical knife-pleats. Bodice is lined with thin black crepe. Label sewn inside at back below neckline: "Harbison / Vandervoort's St Louis" Not shown is the accompanying cummerbund of black taffeta, the waistband of large horizontal pleats with a large fan/bow at back with wide, trailing ribbons. (43" from waist to lowest point of ribbons) digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30076/
Beaded Bag
Handbag. Rectangular bronze frame chased with scrolling floral forms. Ball/snap closure and bronze chain. Body of purse of off-white woven cloth covered in beaded design of red, pink, green, black, and white in an American Indian or possibly Caucasian motifs. Originally lined in pink silk. Frame is marked "Germany". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30073/
Wedding Ensemble
Wedding gown of fine white batiste with various kinds of lace. The full-length gown has a slender silhouette which flares out from the Empire waist downward to the hem. The high neckline has a standing lace collar at throat, an embroidered net section covering lower throat and upper chest, an attached small lace fichu or bertha below that, and attached lace simulated shawl collar "lapels" running from the waist at back, up and over the shoulders, to the waist at front. The short sleeves are of bands and tiers of lace, with a satin band and tightly pleated/ruched rosette on each sleeve near cuff. At waist is a wide satin band with larger pleated/ruched satin rosette in front and back. The main body of the skirt has a vertical inset lace panel at front and back which runs from waist to about knee-height. The lower part of the skirt is made of inset horizontal bands of various types of lace Dress has a center back opening with a series of 28 hook-and-eyes, four hook-and-eyes for satin band at waist, and 3 hook-and-eyes for inner waistband. Not shown are accompanying half slip edged with lace and elbow-length kidskin leather gloves size 5 3/4. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30062/
Shoes
No Description digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc38995/
Shoes
Pair of lady's boots or "High Button Shoes" of black calf leather. The shoes, designed with pointed toes, close along center front with laces, 19 holes high. High heels styled as a modified thick boulevard or Louis heel, with rounded sides and back, tapering slightly to base, and with curved front section. Sole of black leather. Stamped on lining: "355 31769" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc38982/
Shoes
Pair of lady's boots or "High Button Shoes" of tan calf leather and tan cloth (canvas?). The shoes, designed with pointed toes, close along center front with laces, 19 holes high. Lower section of shoes are of tan leather, embellished with tiny holes along stitching lines and in scrolling motifs at toe-boxes. Upper parts of shoes are of heavy tan fabric, likely canvas. High heels styled as a modified boulevard or Louis heel, with rounded sides and back, flaring to base, and with curved front section. Sole of tan leather. Stamped on lining: "16 0 21632X" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc38981/
Shoes
Pair of white kid ladies' shoes. Styled with pointed-toes, the white kid leather upper has a vamp decorated with tiny gunmetal beads edging oval cut-outs, and with massed beading at center of each vamp. Medium/high heels styled as a modified boulevard or Louis heel, with rounded sides and back, flaring to base, and with curved front section. Back and sides of heel covered in matching leather. Lined in white leather. Natural brown leather sole. Retailer's stamp inside: "Neiman-Marcus Co. / Dallas Maker's code stamped inside: "150 / B19003" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc38987/
Shoes
Pair of white satin ladies' shoes. Styled with pointed-toes, the white satin upper has tabs which extend across the instep to form closure. Medium/high heels styled as a modified boulevard or Louis heel, with rounded sides and back, flaring to base, and with curved front section. Back and sides of heel covered in matching leather. Lined in white leather. Natural brown leather sole. Retailer's stamp inside: "Sanger Bros. / Dallas & Waco." Maker's code stamped inside: "35 - 2 36463" Stamped on sole: "35 - / 2" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc38988/
Boots
Pair of lady's boots or "High Button Shoes" of light blue leather and yellow suede. The lower section of the shoes, designed with pointed toes, are of pale blue polished leather. The upper sections, of yellow suede, close along sides with small mother of pearl(?) buttons, 12 buttons high. Medium/high heels styled as a modified boulevard or Louis heel, with rounded sides and back, flaring to base, and with curved front section. Thin silver-colored metal edge/band just above cap of heel. Sole of tan leather. Handwritten inside: "242 / G3064" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc38983/
Mourning Fan
Folding mourning fan. Guards and sticks of plain black wood, shaped but not adorned. The leaf is of plain black cloth. No visible labels, marks or signatures. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc38050/
Picture Hat
Picture hat of black straw. The hat has a broad brim of woven black straw with an upturned outer edge which is trimmed in black velvet. The low, domed crown is also of woven black straw, with a band of black ostrich feathers around the base of the crown. One large ostrich feather plume attached to base of crown and extends out and over the back of the brim. Inside crown is black cloth lining. Sewn inside crown is black cloth label: "Mme Georgette / 11 Rue Scribe / Paris" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30190/
Bonnet
Child's sunbonnet of white cotton. Channel-stitched. Corded brim that also stiffens and shapes bonnet. Long curtain of same. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc87054/
Bonnet
Infant's bonnet of white cotton, possibly as part of a christening set. Lace inset and tucking near brim. Gathered shell. Ties of self. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc87048/
Bonnet
Child's poke-type bonnet of white silk. Completely shirred and trimmed with white satin ribbon, outlined with lace. High crown to which circular shirred flange has been added. Label inside crown mostly illegible; last word is "Chicago". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc277051/
Kimono
Kimono of purple silk printed with designs of flowers, birds and butterflies in purples, blues, tans, reds, etc. Detailing in gold embroidery. With five white "mon" designs similar to a "yin-yang" shape of matched commas. Partly lined in red silk. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc277142/
Kimono
Kimono of burgundy red silk with printed all-over design of large butterflies in creams, tans, blues, etc. Lined in orange crepe silk. Padded hem. Hand-sewn. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc276990/
Shoes
Pair of shoes of off-white leather. Designed with pointed toes, the shoes have uppers cut to create a large tongue with upper edged cut to a point. Applied to vamp is medium sized bow of same leather. Modified Louis heel covered with same leather. Retailer's label stamped inside: "Neiman Marcus" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114807/
Fan
No Description digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc38036/
Fan
No Description digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc38035/
Riding Boots
Pair of lady's riding boots of black/dark brown leather. The "high button shoes" are designed with pointed toes gently rounded at tips, the boots lace up along the back with 12 holes/hooks. Lined in white fabric. High heels are rounded at sides and back, flaring slightly to base, and curved at front. Black leather soles. Hand-written note: "3-13 / 38405 / 413" Retailer's label stamped in gilt, mostly illegible: "Portland Ore" Brand stamped in gilt: "STEPINSHU / Trade Mark / Pat. Applied" Stamped in sole: "WICHERT" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39006/
Hat
Hat of dull golden horsehair mesh over wire framework. Cylindrical crown widening to base of horsehair constructed in a spiral, on wire armature. Side of crown with wide black velvet band with self bow at back. Slightly oval brim of same horsehair set so sides are wider than front or back. Brim slopes slightly from crown to outer rim, with thin wire framework to retain shape. Attached at sides are sprays of artificial flowers and leaves. Underside of brim lined with gathered extremely fine pale chiffon. Crown has inner rigid structure that extends below brim, creating a "support" that rests on wearer's head. Exterior of inner structure lined with black velvet, inner lining of white fabric with "drawstring" center gather. No labels or tags. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc277145/
Pumps
No Description digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc38990/
Pumps
Pumps of gray suede. Shoes have a slightly rounded toe, and a wide strap across vamp to which is applied a large gray ribbon bow with central silver-colored metal rectangular buckle shape. Medium 1 3/4' high modified Louis or cuban heel. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc38993/
Hat
Little girl's Easter bonnet. Wired base with mushroom type top of black velvet and double ruffled brim of white lace. Small pink roses and green stems encircle hat above lace brim. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39156/
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