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  Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
 Decade: 1950-1959
 Collection: Texas Fashion Collection
Cocktail Suit

Cocktail Suit

Date: 1958/1959
Creator: Chanel, Coco, 1883-1971
Description: (On Left) Cocktail suit of black silk satin. The waist-length jacket is formed of vertically arranged heat-set pleats with five horizontal bands applied across the pleats. There is a panel of ivory/off-white silk extending from the neck of the jacket, forming the collar of the jacket and simulating the effect of a blouse being worn under the jacket. The long sleeves are also pleated, with single band near the base of the sleeves, from which extend ivory/off-white silk mock cuffs. The jacket has a center front opening with three applied black bows on the lower three horizontal bands. The opening is secured with three hook-and-loop closures hidden by the bows. The jacket is lined in black silk. The matching mid-length skirt is of similarly pleated black silk, with a plain waistband and a single horizontal black silk band 2" below the waistband. There is three hook-and-loops in the waistband, and four snaps along closure at left hip. The skirt has a single panel of organza lining in back, the rest of the skirt being unlined to allow more movement of the fabric. Jacket has designer's label: "Chanel" Photograph is from the exhibition "Haute Couture - The Great Paris Designers", held ...
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Turban

Turban

Date: 1955
Creator: Henry's Hats
Description: Turban of light brown velvet and burnt sienna / orange brown satin. Affixed to front is a large artificial flower in shades of pinks and pale greens, enhanced with maroon feathers. Lined in pale brown netting. Around inside of brim is band of light brown grosgrain ribbon. Label sewn onto ribbon: "An Original By / Henry's Hats".
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Calotte

Calotte

Date: 1950
Creator: Coralie
Description: Calotte. The hat has a conical crown of stiffened green net overlaid with green straw woven/plaited loops and with attached artificial cherries and leaves. The calotte (also spelled "calot") has a thin green velvet trim along base of crown. Label sewn into inner edge of crown: "Styled by / Coralie", with "Finlan" written on edge of label. Behind the Coralie label is a Union label.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Hat

Hat

Date: 1950
Creator: Carnegie, Hattie
Description: Hat of straw and velvet. The short, cylindrical crown is of woven natural-colored straw, with off-center "peak". The crown is edged along top with a narrow band of orange velvet. The sides of the crown are covered in black velvet, and there is an inner band of black velvet-covered straw that extends below the sides of the crown. The hat is unlined, with an inner hatband of black grosgrain ribbon. On the band, a small sewn start designates the front of the hat. Designer's label sewn to inner hatband: "Hattie Carnegie / Custom Made", and with a (later?) price tag attached. Accompanied by a short hatpin, the head covered with woven straw matching the hat.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Hat

Hat

Date: 1955
Creator: Carnegie, Hattie
Description: Hat of navy blue straw. The turban-like hat is composed of a bulbus crown of woven navy blue straw which is edged in grosgrain ribbon. For one-half of the distance around the hat, the ribbon is dark navy blue, for the other half it is red. The two ends cross over in the front, with ends extending upwards on the front of the hat. The hat is unlined, with an inner dark blue grosgrain ribbon hatband. Designer's label sewn to inner hatband: "Hattie Carnegie".
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Fan

Fan

Date: 1950/1986
Creator: Casa de Diego (Madrid, Spain)
Description: Folding fan. Plain shaped wooden sticks and guards. Leaf of cream paper with thin border of brown. On the leaf are three printed vignettes: 1) view of a street through an archway, titled "Calle de Cuchilleros"; 2) View of the exterior of a church/mission, titled "San Antonio de la Florida"; 3) Scene of a bear shaking a tree, entitled "Madrid". Maker's stamp on back of leaf at guard: "Casa de Diego" Created between 1950 and 1986.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Calotte

Calotte

Date: 1955
Creator: Carnegie, Hattie
Description: Hat of beige felt/velor. Styled as a calotte (also spelled "calot"), the hat has a domed beige felt crown "stacked" on another domed form of the same felt. The outer crown is "cut open" and "peeled back", to reveal the crown below. The lower edge of the crown is rolled up and in to create the appearance of a narrow rolled brim. The hat is unlined, with an inner dark beige grosgrain ribbon hatband. Designer's label sewn to inner hatband: "Hattie Carnegie / Casual" Retailer's label sewn to inner hatband: "Neiman-Marcus" Supplier's mark stamped inside crown: "Riviera / Finest Quality / Velour / Made in Italy"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Calotte

Calotte

Date: 1955
Creator: Carnegie, Hattie
Description: Hat of pale purple or violet felt/velor. Styled as a calotte (also spelled "calot"), the hat has a domed pale purple felt crown "stacked" on another domed form of the same felt. The lower form has a horizontal "tuck" near the base, enhancing the impression of the hat being stacked felt domes. On right side of the crown near base is an applied bow of the same felt. The hat is unlined, with an inner dark blue grosgrain ribbon hatband. Stamped inside the crown: "Premier / Finest Quality / Imported / Velour" Joint Designer's and Retailer's label sewn to inner hatband: "Hattie Carnegie / Inc / Original / Expressly for / Neiman-Marcus". Retains original Neiman-Marcus paper tag. Obverse: "Neiman-Marcus / B830 / x8SINZ / 7529x / 2995"; Reverse: "15 00" With matching hatpin, the head covered with a small pad of the same felt as the hat.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Hat

Hat

Date: 1955
Creator: Miss Mary (New York, New York)
Description: Hat of natural-colored straw. The somewhat domed crown worked to appear "squashed", bulging in some areas and turned-in in others. At base of crown is band of cream grosgrain ribbon with bow at front. The brim is off-center, turned under, extending further at front and curving more broadly under at back. The hat is unlined, with an inner red grosgrain ribbon hatband. Designer's label sewn to inner hatband: "Miss Mary / New York"; Retailer's label sewn to inner hatband: "Walker-Marr / Dallas" Belonged to Mrs. Leo F. Corrigan, the mother of Mrs. Edwin B. Jordan, the donor of this piece.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Hat

Hat

Date: 1955/1959
Creator: LilyAn
Description: Hat of natural-colored straw. Hat is composed of two parts. The inner circular pillbox-style crown is covered in navy blue shantung. Around the pillbox is the woven straw brim, which extends downwards in a bell-shape, and also extends upwards around the pillbox, forming four flaps that overlap the top of the crown. The opening at top of the crown formed by the flaps is bordered in red piping, and two of the flaps meet at top of crown and are tied with red and blue bows. The pillbox section of the crown is lined in yellow textured weave. Sewn into the lining along the edge of the crown is label: "LilyAn / Originals".
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design