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  Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
 Country: United States
 State: California
 Decade: 1940-1949
 Collection: Texas Fashion Collection
Beret

Beret

Date: 1945/1949
Creator: unknown
Description: Beret style hat of ochre colored chenille yarn. Retailer's label on inside crown: " Alexander & Oviatt / Los Angeles"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Evening Dress

Evening Dress

Date: 1945/1949
Creator: Adrian, Gilbert
Description: Ensemble consisting of jacket and skirt. A) Jacket. The fitted black velvet jacket is encrusted with gold braid/ribbon in a lattice/trellis pattern over the entire surface, with added buttons, cabochons, beads, etc. lavishly sewn over the surface. The jacket has a no collar, and short capped sleeves. From the natural waist flares a peplum. The jacket has a center front closure of hooks-and-eyes. Unlined, it has built-in shoulder pads. No label in jacket. B) Straight skirt is full-length, of heavy black crepe. Center back zipper closure with hook-and-eye at waistband. Designer's label inside skirt at side seam: "Adrian / Custom", along with a second label, typed on white grosgrain ribbon, sewn in: "Neiman Marcus 417 / Size 12".
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Dress

Dress

Date: 1947
Creator: Adrian, Gilbert
Description: Evening dress of silk crepe for summer. The full-length dress has an A-line skirt of cocoa brown silk crepe and attached belt with pendant strap at front left. The bodice is of cream silk crepe printed with a "trompe l'oeil" ribbon motif below the rounded neckline. Darts at sides. Long, bat-wing style tapered sleeves. Center-back snap closure. Unlined. Designer's label: "Adrian / Original"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Skirt Suit

Skirt Suit

Date: 1947/1948
Creator: Adrian, Gilbert
Description: Woman's suit of brown wool gabardine. a) Single breasted, jacket with rectangle motif carried throughout. Convertible collar with 3" points, and one under collar stop 2" from CF as shoulder yoke extends in a 2" wide rectangle parallel to collar edge. Shoulder yoke also extends to self-face the jacket, creating a 1"x 3" rectangle on the underside of the first bound button hold and button. There are 4 brown buttons with three narrow bound button holes, the second button falling at bottom of rectangle yoke as a inseam button. Pair of double welt slit pockets below shoulder within a rectangle of opposite grain within the larger rectangle in same grain as welt lips, with rectangle design lines extending over sleeve and top of it slip-stitched to mid-arm scythe. Two parallel princess seams starting from lower rectangle yoke and front under arm seam run under 8" over-sized pocket flap, narrow to define width of 4" slit pocket. Over-sized bias pocket flap is 8" x 4" with 1 1/2" x 7" vertically center rectangle insert of opposite bias grain both starting from side seam. Full length set in sleeves with one elbow dart at each under seam. At right sleeve's forearm starts ...
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Skirt Suit

Skirt Suit

Date: 1946
Creator: Adrian, Gilbert
Description: Street suit of gray wool. A daytime or street suit consisting of two pieces. Excellent example of chiaroscuro work. A) Jacket with squared padded shoulders, no collar, and long sleeves. Opening along the central front, the jacket has a series of 5 hook-and-eye closures. A band that extends from upper left, across opening, and secures through a wide loop just below the right shoulder. The jacket is lined in a peach/mauve silk. At center back of inside neckline is designer's label: "Adrian / Original" Retailer's label at right inside seam: "Frost Bros. / San Antonio". B) Straight skirt was originally just below knee length, but has been lengthened by the addition of material almost matching the lining of the jacket. The skirt has a center back zipper closure. It is currently unlined, but has evidence of the alterations. No labels, possibly removed.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Skirt Suit

Skirt Suit

Date: 1947
Creator: Adrian, Gilbert
Description: Skirt suit of blue/grey wool consisting of: A) Jacket of navy wool. Jacket has 3/4 sleeves, slash pockets with button trim and welt buttonhole; wide shoulders; nipped-in waist; intricate inset back detail; half belt crisscross in back with button and welt buttonhole. Lined in navy silk. Designer's label at inside back collar: "Adrian / in / British Samek Material" (B) Skirt of same fabric. Mid-calf length; small back kick pleat at hem. Zipper closure. Unlined.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Skirt Suit

Skirt Suit

Date: 1945
Creator: Adrian, Gilbert
Description: Gray worsted wool two-piece suit. A) Jacket. Hip-length, with long sleeves. Center front opening with 4 large circular buttons (one missing). Front with piece-in bands of same cloth forming cross-overs at upper bust and arcs below the two pockets. Lined in peach fabric. Designer's label at left side: "Adrian / Original"; At center back inside neckline is retailer's label "Nan Duskin / Philadelphia" B) Skirt. Street-length, ca. mid-calf. Zipper closure at left hip, with hook-and-eyes at waistband. Unlined. Retailer's label as in jacket, near hem on side seam.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Skirt Suit

Skirt Suit

Date: 1947
Creator: Adrian, Gilbert
Description: Skirt suit of black silk faille. The two-piece skirt consists of a jacket and skirt. The jacket is of mid-hip length, with shawl collar, long sleeves, and center-front opening which secures with three circular buttons covered with black faille and embroidered with a stylized "M" or Scorpio symbol. At upper front collarbone area are two applied strips of black faille which form "tabs", and there are similar sewn-in patches of same. Front hip pocket, and another "tab" on other hip. The skirt is street length, with similar patches and tabs. Designer's label: "Adrian / Original" Retailer's label: "Neiman-Marcus"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Skirt Suit

Skirt Suit

Date: 1940/1950
Creator: Adrian, Gilbert
Description: Two-piece skirt suit of tan, lightly striped, possibly synthetic material. The jacket is a tailored shell with high rounded neckline and square spread collar. Full-length set-in sleeves. constructed in one piece with darts at the elbows. Center front closure from the neck to hip line with four bound buttonholes with corresponding brown tortoise shell buttons. Bound hip pockets with flaps. The jacket front is intricately pieced. Fully lined in light brown crepe. Designer's label stitched along inside of right front opening: "Adrian / Original" The skirt is narrow, knee-length, with knee-level kick pleat. The skirt is darted into a narrow waistband, and has a left side seam zipper closure from waist to hip line. Lapped closure with single hook&eye and hook&bar. Unlined with turned back hem.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Skirt Suit

Skirt Suit

Date: 1945/1949
Creator: Adrian, Gilbert
Description: Suit of tan heather wool. Suit consists of two pieces: A) Jacket, pointed collar, notched lapels, single breasted, long sleeves, cut formed of diagonal piecing, lined in tan silk crepe. B: Skirt, four gored, kick pleat at CF hem.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
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