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  Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
 Country: United States
 Decade: 1900-1909
 Collection: Texas Fashion Collection
Bonnet
Child's poke-type bonnet of white silk. Completely shirred and trimmed with white satin ribbon, outlined with lace. High crown to which circular shirred flange has been added. Label inside crown mostly illegible; last word is "Chicago". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc277051/
Bonnet
Infant's bonnet of white cotton, possibly as part of a christening set. Lace inset and tucking near brim. Gathered shell. Ties of self. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc87048/
Bonnet
Child's sunbonnet of white cotton. Channel-stitched. Corded brim that also stiffens and shapes bonnet. Long curtain of same. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc87054/
Hat
Hat of dull golden horsehair mesh over wire framework. Cylindrical crown widening to base of horsehair constructed in a spiral, on wire armature. Side of crown with wide black velvet band with self bow at back. Slightly oval brim of same horsehair set so sides are wider than front or back. Brim slopes slightly from crown to outer rim, with thin wire framework to retain shape. Attached at sides are sprays of artificial flowers and leaves. Underside of brim lined with gathered extremely fine pale chiffon. Crown has inner rigid structure that extends below brim, creating a "support" that rests on wearer's head. Exterior of inner structure lined with black velvet, inner lining of white fabric with "drawstring" center gather. No labels or tags. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc277145/
Shoes
No Description digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc38995/
Pumps
No Description digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc38990/
Pumps
Pumps of gray suede. Shoes have a slightly rounded toe, and a wide strap across vamp to which is applied a large gray ribbon bow with central silver-colored metal rectangular buckle shape. Medium 1 3/4' high modified Louis or cuban heel. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc38993/
Fan
No Description digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc38036/
Shoes
Pair of lady's boots or "High Button Shoes" of tan calf leather and tan cloth (canvas?). The shoes, designed with pointed toes, close along center front with laces, 19 holes high. Lower section of shoes are of tan leather, embellished with tiny holes along stitching lines and in scrolling motifs at toe-boxes. Upper parts of shoes are of heavy tan fabric, likely canvas. High heels styled as a modified boulevard or Louis heel, with rounded sides and back, flaring to base, and with curved front section. Sole of tan leather. Stamped on lining: "16 0 21632X" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc38981/
Shoes
Pair of white kid ladies' shoes. Styled with pointed-toes, the white kid leather upper has a vamp decorated with tiny gunmetal beads edging oval cut-outs, and with massed beading at center of each vamp. Medium/high heels styled as a modified boulevard or Louis heel, with rounded sides and back, flaring to base, and with curved front section. Back and sides of heel covered in matching leather. Lined in white leather. Natural brown leather sole. Retailer's stamp inside: "Neiman-Marcus Co. / Dallas Maker's code stamped inside: "150 / B19003" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc38987/
Shoes
Pair of white satin ladies' shoes. Styled with pointed-toes, the white satin upper has tabs which extend across the instep to form closure. Medium/high heels styled as a modified boulevard or Louis heel, with rounded sides and back, flaring to base, and with curved front section. Back and sides of heel covered in matching leather. Lined in white leather. Natural brown leather sole. Retailer's stamp inside: "Sanger Bros. / Dallas & Waco." Maker's code stamped inside: "35 - 2 36463" Stamped on sole: "35 - / 2" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc38988/
Mourning Fan
Folding mourning fan. Guards and sticks of plain black wood, shaped but not adorned. The leaf is of plain black cloth. No visible labels, marks or signatures. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc38050/
Shoes
Pair of shoes of off-white leather. Designed with pointed toes, the shoes have uppers cut to create a large tongue with upper edged cut to a point. Applied to vamp is medium sized bow of same leather. Modified Louis heel covered with same leather. Retailer's label stamped inside: "Neiman Marcus" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114807/
Handbag
Handbag. Rectangular frame of cast openwork brass floral designs with traces of gilding. Ball and snap closure and gilt brass suspension chain. Bag is of dark purple crocheted silk, with three different types of beading. Area at frame is plain all-over beading of purple/bronze iridescent cut beads. Below this, and at bottom of bag is fringe of looped beading. The main body of the bag has vertical stripes of beads arranged in horizontal rows. Lined with bright purple silk, trimmed in gold cording. Contains a small gold kid leather purse embossed with a stylized thorn pattern. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30207/
Shoes
Pair of ladies' white heavy satin wedding shoes. Designed with pointed toes, the shoes have a fastening strap across instep with a single domed opalescent/milky white glass button. Across vamp is applied white satin bow with decorative gilt metal rectangular buckle with lobed ends. One buckle missing. Lined in white fabric. Sole of natural brown leather, heel covered in white satin. Medium-height heel with rounded sides and back, curving inwards and then flaring out to base, similar to a Louis heel. Stamped inside shoe in gilt: "C.A. Verner / Pittsburgh" Worn by Bess McChord (1874-1903) at her wedding to Clifford Dunnells, January 1, 1901. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39005/
Shoes
Pair of lady's shoes of black kid leather and broadcloth. The "high button shoes" have black leather toe boxes with pointed toes and black leather sections at heels which extend from heel up the back of the shoe. The uppers are of black wool broadcloth. Shoes secure at outside edges with 12 circular, slightly domed black buttons. Upper edges lined with black leather, the rest lined with white cloth. The medium-height heel is rounded at sides and back, and squared-off at front. Although not technically a "stacked" heel, the layers can be seen. Maker's label sewn into lining at top: "Wichert / Shoe / Trade Mark / New York U.S.A." Retailer's gilt stamp on inside edge: "Norton's / Gainesville, Tex." Handwritten notation inside boot, just below upper edge: "36-1 36752 / 330". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39008/
Shoes
Pair of white kid ladies' shoes. Styled with pointed-toes, the white kid leather upper has a vamp decorated with geometric and stylized foliate designs in crystal beads. The shoes secure across instep with single ribbon tie on each, creating a "peep" just above toes. Lined in white leather. Natural brown leather sole. Heel is of medium height, rounded at back and tapering slightly to base. Similar to what would become a Cuban heel. Maker's code stamped inside: "35-C 3021" Worn by Norma Tiemann at her marriage to Val L. Lehmann in Brenham, Texas in 1907. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39004/
Boots
Pair of lady's boots of black leather and wool broadcloth. The "high button shoes" are designed with pointed toes gently rounded at tips. The lower part, including vamp, are of black leather. The upper part is of black wool broadcloth edged at scalloped top with black leather, and with black leather accent band running from heel partly up the back of the boot. The boots lace up along the front with 20 holes. Lined at top with reddish/orange fabric, the body of the shoe lined in white fabric. High heels are rounded at sides and back, flaring slightly to base, and curved at front. Black leather soles. Stamped notation inside: "3 1/2 B R251" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39009/
Riding Boots
Pair of lady's riding boots of black/dark brown leather. The "high button shoes" are designed with pointed toes gently rounded at tips, the boots lace up along the back with 12 holes/hooks. Lined in white fabric. High heels are rounded at sides and back, flaring slightly to base, and curved at front. Black leather soles. Hand-written note: "3-13 / 38405 / 413" Retailer's label stamped in gilt, mostly illegible: "Portland Ore" Brand stamped in gilt: "STEPINSHU / Trade Mark / Pat. Applied" Stamped in sole: "WICHERT" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39006/
Shoes
Pair of lady's boots or "High Button Shoes" of dark brown kid leather. The shoes, designed with pointed toes, lace closed along center front with laces 18 holes high. Medium height heels styled as a modified boulevard or Louis heel, with rounded sides and back, tapering to base, and with curved front section. Sole of black leather. Partially illegible notation stamped inside on lining: "050 8186K 6"(?) digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39030/
Boots
Pair of boots or "High Button Shoes" of gray/silver lamé cloth. The shoes, designed with pointed toes rounded at the tips, lace closed along center front with laces 18 holes high. The high heels are rounded at sides and back, tapering to center and flaring back out at base, and are curved at front. They are covered with the lamé fabric on the back and sides. The sole is of tan and brown leather, as is the cap on the heel. Shoes are lined in off-white cloth. Hand-written notation on inside lining, partly illegible: "37 / .... / 911" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39017/
Boots
Pair of lady's boots or "High Button Shoes" of black and tan leather. The lower section of the shoes, designed with pointed toes, are of black leather. The upper sections, of tan leather, close along center front with laces, 17 holes high. Medium/high heels styled as a modified boulevard or Louis heel, with rounded sides and back, flaring to base, and with curved front section. Sole of black and tan leather. Stamped on sole: "TEDCO / Trade Mark" Stamped on lining: "435 72307 4" and "Tedco" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39018/
Boots
Pair of boots or "High Button Shoes" of brown leather. The shoes, designed with pointed toes rounded at the tips, lace closed along center front with laces 16 holes high. The medium height, stacked heels are rounded at sides and back, and are curved at front, tapering slightly to ground. The sole is of tan leather. The shoes are lined in off-white cloth. The base of the heel is of brown rubber(?) with molded marks. Maker's mark in sole: "Hamilton-Brown / Makers / [illeg] Molded into heel: "Cushion Comfort Heel 2" Stamped in lining: "450 24512H" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39014/
Boots
Pair of lady's boots or "High Button Shoes" of tan leather. The shoes, designed with pointed toes, are of tan leather which close along center front with laces, 19 holes high. Medium/high heels styled as a modified boulevard or Louis heel, with rounded sides and back, flaring to base, and with curved front section. Heels covered with matching leather. Sole of tan leather. Stamped on lining: "H.Seligmann / Seguin, Tex." and "356 10146" Stamped on sole is a wreath containing an image of a shoe and label "Duchess". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39019/
Shoes
Pair of lady's shoes of black leather and gray suede. The shoes, designed with pointed toes, are of black leather on toe box, and gray suede on heel, back, and strap across instep, which closes with button on outside of foot. Medium high heels are covered in matching suede and are styled as a modified boulevard or Louis heel, with rounded sides and back, and with curved front section. Sole of black leather. Retailer's stamp on sole: "MacDougall & Southwick Co. / Seattle, Wash." Hand-written notation on lining: "40 00 20704" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39022/
Shoes
Pair of ladies' off-white or cream heavy satin wedding shoes. Designed with rounded toes, the slip-in shoes had an embellishment across vamp of an applied white satin bow or pouch. One survives in part. Lined in white fabric. Sole of natural brown leather, heel covered in white satin. Medium-height heel with rounded sides and back, curving inwards and then straight down to base, similar to a modern continental heel. Stamped inside shoe in gilt: "Boston Shoe Store / New Orleans, LA" Stamped inside shoe in green: "350 19664" Worn by Elsie Gauthreaux at her wedding to Robert Iler, 1913. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39021/
Boots
Pair of boots or "High Button Shoes" of black leather. The shoes, designed with rounded pointed toes, lace closed along center front with laces 16 holes high. The low, stacked heels are rounded at sides and back, and are curved at front. The sole is of black leather. Shoes are lined in black leather and off-white cloth. The base of the heel is of black rubber(?) with molded grips. Manufacturer's mark molded into heel: "[Image of a walking man] / Healthway / USA". Stamped into sole: "Combination / Last" Handwritten notation on lining: "4/1/6 18261* / 51|23" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39027/
Shoes
Pair of lady's shoes of black leather. The shoes, designed as oxford style shoes with pointed toes, are of black leather which close along center front with laces, 6 holes high. High heels styled as a modified boulevard or Louis heel, with rounded sides and back, flaring to base, and with curved front section. Heels covered with matching leather. Sole of black leather. There are no marks or labels on the shoes. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39020/
Boots
Pair of lady's boots or "High Button Shoes" of white kidskin leather. The shoes, designed with pointed toes close along center front with laces, 17 holes high. Embellished at top with band of small holes along edge of boot. Medium/high heels styled as a modified boulevard or Louis heel, with rounded sides and back, flaring to base, and with curved front section. Heels covered with matching leather. Sole of tan leather. Stamped on lining: "Neiman-Marcus / Dallas" and "28D 23949" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39024/
Wedding Shoes
Wedding shoes of off-white leather. The shoes have pointed toes, and a "Mary-Jane" style strap across the instep which secures with a domed opalescent button. At throat of each shoe is a rectangular ornamental buckle covered with matching leather. The medium-high heel tapers slightly to the base and is covered with matching leather on the rounded sides and back; it has the same natural brown colored leather on the heel's curved inside and on the soles of the shoes. Retail's label stamped inside one shoe: "Sanger Bros. / Dallas Texas" Stamped inside both shoes on leather upper: "36-2 68082" The shoes are accompanied by a shoe bag of tan colored raw silk with a Japanese character style embroidery motif of blue silk worked in satin stitch. Worn by Jessie Knapp Nunnally of San Angelo, TX, at her wedding in 1902. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39029/
Shoes
Pair of lady's shoes of brown leather. The shoes, designed with gently pointed toes, are of the Oxford style of brown leather with openwork at sides of instep and with laced closure at instep of 4 holes height. The medium height heels are styled as a modified Cuban or continental heel, with rounded sides and back, tapering to base, and slightly curved at front. The heels covered with matching leather. Sole of tan leather, with rubber/composite on heel. Stamped in lining on one shoe: "Arch Rest / Drew / Portsmouth. O." Stamped into lining of shoe: "8 1/2 AAA 75537 / 6003" Stamped on inner sole: "[drawing of arrow] INTERIOR / DREW / [illeg]CK REST" Tooled into inner sole at heel: "SNUG-FITTING / HEEL" Molded into rubber of heel: "Biltrite" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39023/
Sunbonnet
Sunbonnet of off-white calico cotton with a tiny repeated print of three stylized leaves in brown. The brim of the hat is quilted in L-shaped rows of stitching and is very stiff from starch and stiffening material within it. The crown is gathered along the entire length of the seam where it attaches to the brim. The crown and tail are formed from a single piece of fabric, and the tail is stitched flat to the lower sides of brim. The neck is adjustable, having outer neck ties stitched to the lower corners of the brim on both sides. The chin ties are of the same fabric, with unfinished edges. The long tail on the bonnet indicates that it was used as a field bonnet. The TFC thanks Rebecca Jumper Matheson for her research on this object. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39157/
Hat
Little girl's Easter bonnet. Wired base with mushroom type top of black velvet and double ruffled brim of white lace. Small pink roses and green stems encircle hat above lace brim. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39156/
Boots
Pair of boots or "High Button Shoes" of gray/very pale blue leather. The shoes, designed with pointed toes rounded at the tips, lace closed along center front with laces 16 holes high. The high heels are rounded at sides and back, tapering to center and flaring back out at base, and are curved at front. The sole is of tan leather. Shoes are lined in matching leather and off-white cloth. Retailer's stamp on lining: "Byrn's Boot Sh [partly illeg] / Kansas City" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39015/
Dress
Day dress of black silk taffeta. The dress, in the style of the Aesthetic or Reform Movement, is full-length, with a slender silhouette. The front and back of the bodice is styled of tiny vertical knife-pleats, which gather into the rounded neckline. The side panels of the bodice are plain, and there is a line of 14 snaps along the left side forming the closure. The long sleeves are smooth, with slight pleating at the padded shoulders, and they taper to the pointed wrists. The sleeves have 5 hidden snaps and a line of 12 domed non-functioning black taffeta covered buttons on each sleeve. Bodice and skirt are divided by a thin black band. Skirt is fully pleated with tiny vertical knife-pleats. Bodice is lined with thin black crepe. Label sewn inside at back below neckline: "Harbison / Vandervoort's St Louis" Not shown is the accompanying cummerbund of black taffeta, the waistband of large horizontal pleats with a large fan/bow at back with wide, trailing ribbons. (43" from waist to lowest point of ribbons) digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30076/
Beaded Bag
Handbag. Rectangular bronze frame chased with scrolling floral forms. Ball/snap closure and bronze chain. Body of purse of off-white woven cloth covered in beaded design of red, pink, green, black, and white in an American Indian or possibly Caucasian motifs. Originally lined in pink silk. Frame is marked "Germany". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30073/
Mourning Ensemble - Bodice and Skirt
Black silk mourning ensemble consisting of bodice and skirt. The bodice of black silk is fitted and boned, with a high, standing black silk band collar with appliqued black lace medallions. It has full-length, modified bishop sleeves that gather into the armseye. Below the gathered cap, in the portion corresponding to the upper arm, the fullness of the sleeve is controlled with top-stitched vertical tucks. From the elbow to the cuff the fullness is again released in a bishop sleeve silhouette. The sleeves gather again into wide black silk cuffs with appliqued black lace medallions and four narrow bands of black velvet ribbon. The bodice front is constructed on the lines of a bolero jacket, with a deep V-shaped opening and wide ruffled collar which is constructed of horizontally tucked black crepe-patterned silk. The released fullness of the tucking creates the ruffled finish. The ruffled portion is edged with two narrow bands of black velvet ribbon. The bodice front has a bib fill of gathered black silk and tulle net that is secured with hook-and-eyes beneath the left collar overlay. The fill area disguises the true front opening which is secured with thirteen hook-and-eyes. The main body of the bodice, front and back, is constructed of vertically tucked black silk that finishes in a wide black silk waistband which is appliqued with black lace medallions and edged in narrow black velvet ribbon. The waistband laps slightly left of center and secures with three hook-and-eyes. The bodice is fully lined with heavily boned glazed black cotton and has figure enhancing pads sewn over the bust and underarm areas and has a black cotton petersham that hooks at center front. There are two hooks at back waist-level to connect the bodice to the skirt. The matching seven-panel gored skirt is of black silk and has a narrow waistband with center back placket opening secured with three hook-and-eyes. The rear fullness pleats into the waistband and disguises the opening. Two rear hooks at the waistline connect the skirt to the bodice. The full hem is embellished with seven horizontal rows of narrow black velvet ribbon. The hem is faced with black velvet, and there is a built-in bustle pad. There are no labels in the garment. The mourning dress originally belonged to Margaret Louise Walker (b.1840-d.1903), who lived on the Walker Plantation outside of Aberdeen. Mississippi. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30264/