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UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Texas Fashion Collection
- Wedding Ensemble
Wedding ensemble of ivory silk embroidered with green and yellow crewel flowers. The bodice of the dress is sleeveless, with scoop neck and fitted seaming. The skirt is floor-length at front, with train at back. The surface of the skirt is decorated with crewel embroidery of flowers in pinks, greens, reds, and blues. The lower part of the skirt has a wide band of lace in floral patterns, with an under layer of pleated plain net with embroidered dots. The dress has a center back zipper closure and is lined in ivory fabric, and has an attached petticoat. Matching the dress is a fitted jacket of ivory silk, long sleeves, and stand-up collar. The collar and cuffs are trimmed in the same net as the hem of the dress. The fitted jacket has a peplum and center front closure with four silk cord frog closures which snap on left side and disguise a series of snaps and hook-and-eyes. The collar, cuffs, and panels at front and back are bordered by striped bands of yellow, blue, green, and coral/pink ribbon. The panels formed on front and back have crewel embroidered flowers as the dress. Jacket is fully lined in ivory fabric. Not shown in photo is the accompanying hat of ivory silk. The low ivory silk brim is tear-drop in shape, the point at the front edge of the hat. The rolled brim encircles the lace crown and anchors the ivory net slight veil which extends around brim. At back of hat is short "tail" of net. Hat has an off-white grosgrain inner hat-band and a black cord to secure hat to wearer's head. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30283/
Dress and belt. The dress has an empire-length bodice of white organdy with short sleeves, deep V-neckline in front and shallow boat neckline in back and is densely beaded with large and small white beads. From the lower edge of the beaded bodice a band of blue silk satin with a printed pattern of different sizes of white polka dots extends down to dropped waist length, covering the midriff. The full skirt, of the same polka dot material, is above-the-knee length, and has box pleats which start from the dropped waist level. The dress has a zipper closure along the left side seam of the midriff section, and the closure continues up along the lower part of the empire bust line seam to the base of the V-neckline with a series of alternating covered snaps and hook-and-eyes. The bodice section is lined with white organdy, the midriff section with blue silk, and the skirt is unlined. Designer's label is sewn inside bodice near right armhole: "Givenchy" "Made in France", with a second label sewn underneath with handwritten notation "80932". The dress has an accompanying belt covered with matching blue fabric with printed polka dots and backed with black leather. The buckle is also covered with blue polka dot fabric. The belt has no labels or marks.
Not shown in photo are matching high-heeled pumps by Rene Mancini, Pairs, and matching envelope clutch handbag also by Mancini.
From Givenchy's Spring 1992 Collection. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30252/
- Evening Dress
Evening dress of gold and multicolored printed hounds tooth patern satin. The full-length gown is designed with a wide "bateau" neckline with almost off-the-shoulder short puffed sleeves, a long waist into which is gathered the full skirt. The gown has an all-over pattern of horizontal bands of hounds tooth in various colors and gold: purple, orange, green and yellow. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc283726/
- Evening Dress
Evening dress of royal blue with gold and silver jacquard celestial sun and star motif. Slim, wrap style, with asymmetric left side opening and closure of six large snaps and two hook & eyes. Long sleeves with zipper closure at hem. Floor length. Lined in blue silk. With belt of black leather covered in same blue/gold jacquard, which also covers the oval buckle.
Designer's label at center back neckline: "Scaasi / Boutique"
Labels at left side seam: Size: "6" Care: "Dry Clean / Only"
ILGWU label: "613889"
Style number(?) pinned to inside right center front of dress: "1078"
Stamped on back: "Scaasi 9118"; and with masking tape labeled "1078" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc498993/
- Evening Gown
Evening dress of black velvet and fuchsia satin. The dress has an empire-length bodice of black velvet, with a scoop neckline and long fitted sleeves which have hidden zipper closures. The Empire waistline is accented with a horizontal band of fuchsia satin with bow at center front. Extending down from the waistband is the full fuchsia satin skirt. The full-length skirt has vertical inverted pleats edged with bands of black velvet that extend from the waistband to just below the hips. At center back is a zipper closure. The bodice is lined in black silk, and has a black grosgrain ribbon inner waistband which secures with hook-and-eyes. The skirt has an inner slip lining of fuchsia fabric with a wide fuchsia satin hem matching the skirt.
Designer label stitched into garment at right center-back, beside the zipper "Oscar de la Renta" with second label "Made in U.S.A." sewn below. Hand written on the designer label is notation "5638 F-92". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30270/
- Wedding Dress
Wedding dress of hot pink net with shirred all-over appliques and rhinestones. Dress is a short sheath style with V-neck and long sleeves with full length train in back with pink satin bustle with pink silk flowers.
Has a matching headpiece with hot pink net veil, not photographed. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286837/
- Ensemble - Jacket, Skirt, Blouse and Scarf
Ensemble of teal silk Ottoman. The suit consists of a jacket and skirt, blouse, and scarf. The jacket is of horizontally ribbed teal silk, banded on the bias, has a rounded neckline, is long sleeved, and has princess seaming for a tailored fit. The sleeves have soft pleating at the shoulders, and there are 3 circular gold buttons set with rhinestones at each cuff. There is a center front closure with 4 large buttons matching the style of sleeve buttons and one hidden snap at top. The buttonholes are hidden in the seam of the opening. The jacket is lined in black silk. The jacket has designer's label sewn inside at back of neck: "Richard Brooks". The matching skirt is of the same silk Ottoman, below-knee length, with soft pleats at front and darts at back from waistband down 5 1/2". Small slit at center back from hem upwards. The sides are cut on straight vertical stripe. The waistband has hook and two eyes, and there is a center back zipper closure. The skirt is lined in teal silk. There are no labels in the skirt. The blouse is of a thin teal green and metallic gold jacquard, woven with an ornate all-over paisley pattern. There is a banded collar and slight pleating/gathering on front at yoke, and at top of the long sleeves. Center back zipper closure extends from collar almost to hem, and has two hook-and-eyes at collar. The blouse has attached shoulder pads. There is no label in the blouse. An accompanying scarf is of iridescent teal silk chiffon, edged with the same jacquard materials the blouse is made from. There is no label on the scarf.
Designed for Texas Governor Ann Richards.
The silk is from Abraham Fabric. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30305/
- Ensemble - Jacket, Skirts and Blouse
Ensemble of rose silk. The suit consists of a jacket, two skirts and a blouse. The jacket is made from a 1930's sari of pale pink silk embroidered with gold and silver threads, beads, and pink sequins in designs of vines, flowers and abstract line patterns. Jacket has a floating yoke and full leg-o-mutton sleeves with long narrow cuffs that have zipper closures. The jacket itself has a center front opening with no closure. The neckline, edges of closure, hem, and cuffs are edged in heavily beaded bands added by the designer. Designer's label sewn inside back at neck: "Richard Brooks". The blouse is of heavy pink silk, collarless, with round neckline. It is short-sleeved, with pleating at the shoulder. Vertical seaming on front and back for structure. There is a concealed center-back closure with snap at top and 5 clear plastic circular buttons down the length. The blouse is lined in a dark, dusty pink silk and has sewn-in shoulder pads. Designer's label is sewn inside back to the left of the opening: "Richard Brooks". The two skirts are are both of identical pink silk, matching the blouse, of identical construction. One is knee-length, and the other is full-length. Both are lined in the same pink silk as the jacket. The short skirt has designer's label sewn in at waistband: "Richard Brooks".
Worn by Governor Ann Richards when she spoke at the Gridiron Club in Washington, 1992. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30304/
Coat in trench style of burgundy satin with burgundy dyed fox fur trim on shawl collar and cuffs. Full-length; center front opening. Vertical side welt pockets. Lined in black silk. With tie belt of burgundy satin, 1 1/2" wide; top-stitched.
Designer's label at center back neckline: "Fourrure / Givenchy" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc501323/
- Cocktail Dress
Cocktail dress of gold metallic French lace in floral motif over an under dress of fleshed-toned charmeuse silk. Knee length, with a folded yoke panel which forms a V-shaped neckline with lace trim. Short sleeves and empire waist each with a 1" gold lace trim. Center back zipper.
Designer's label at right of zipper: "Midon" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc498986/
- Cocktail Ensemble - Vest, Blouse, and Pants
Cocktail ensemble consisting of a long vest, pants, and top of silk brocade.
A) Vest of off-white silk and gold metallic thread in pebble textured weave. Non-uniform, various sized squares are separated by veins of gold threads giving a reptilian pattern. Sleeveless with shoulder pads. Mid-thigh length. Collarless, V-neckline with 2 button closure at waist. Unlined.
Designer's label at center back neckline: "Michael Faircloth"
B) Pants of warm gold four-ply silk. Straight leg; full length. Center back zipper closure; 3" sections of elastic at right-back and left-back waistline. Lined with gold silk satin.
C) Blouse of warm gold chiffon with 2" to 3" pleated ring collar. Long sleeves are gathered into piped cuffs with button and loop closure. Center back zipper closure; shoulder pads. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc498997/
Dress of red chiffon, sequins and beading. The bodice of the dress is of draped red chiffon with deep V-neckline at front and shawl collar with deep drape at back. The long, full sleeves gather into tight cuffs, each having four red chiffon covered domed buttons and red fabric loops. At the natural waist of the dress is a horizontally ruched band which gives the effect of a sash of the same material, with simulated bow and trailing ends. The bodice simulates a wrap dress, with one side of the collar ends becoming part of the bow of the sash, and the other securing inside with a snap. The bow conceals three hook-and-eye closures and the top of the zipper closure. The short skirt is completely covered with sequins and beads. Black sequins run in horizontal and vertical bands forming a grid/trellis pattern. The vertical rectangular spaces within the grid are filled with rectangles of sequins in green, black, white and orange/red, or with tubular beads in white/iridescent, gray and yellow. There are also scattered irregular patches of orange white or green sequins on the black sequin grid. The skirt is lined in black fabric.
Designer's label sewn inside at right neckline: "Arnold Scaasi"; pinned-in label at hem with hand-written notation: "5019"
From Scaasi's Fall 1990 collection. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc38119/
Dress of hammered pale pink silk/wool blend crepe. High neck with scoop front, empire waist, sleeveless. Bodice is topstitched/quilted all over in 1/4" parallel rows with stitches on front following the contour lines of the armholes and neckline on front piece. Back made of three panels, with side panels with stitches following contour lines of armholes and middle panel echoing the contours from the front of dress. Bodice inner layer of same, but not stitched through. Full-length double skirt with hammer finish has 4 center front tucks and back princess seams, flares gently; inner skirt of self has 4" of feathers at hem with 2" showing below outer skirt. Invisible zipper with hook and loop on left back princess seam.
Designer label: "CHADO / Ralph Rucci"
Size label: "10"
Content label: "60 % silk / 40% wool"
Care label: "Dry Clean / Only / Made / in U.S.A"
With scarf of brown and white silk chiffon; brown ombre along edges fades to white center; 108" x 55".
Designer label (double label, identical): "CHADO / Ralph Rucci" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc499022/
- Evening Dress and Jacket Ensemble
A) Evening dress of white crocheted silk floral lace over ivory chiffon. The full-length strapless sheath dress has a body-skimming silhouette and a straight-line upper edge at bust trimmed with a band of ivory satin. Hemline dips at back, and creates a very slight train effect. Size 8
B) Jacket of double faced ivory silk satin with open-front and shawl collar which extends to waist-length hem. Long dolman sleeves extend to hem with gauntlet cuff with 2 ½” slit. Size 6
Designer's label: "Pamela Dennis / New York" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286884/
- Evening Dress, Purse, and Shoes
Gold patterned evening dress with jacket, shoes and clutch.
A) Jacket: tailored, cropped shell in peacock eye, gold metallic brocade with red and mauve highlights. Jewel neckline with full-length set-in sleeves. The neckline and cuffs are embellished with wide bands of gold cord, gold beads and large gold, yellow and red rhinestones. Fully lined in gold silk. Shoulder pads.
B) Dress: Fitted, slightly dropped waist, sleeveless bodice with scooped neckline and low plunging back. Centerback zipper closure with a single hook & eye at the neckline. Slightly dropped waistseam with full, gathered, pouf skirt. The skirt has an asymetrical hem falling from knee-level centerfront to mid-calf centerback. Sideseam hip-level pockets. The bodice piece lined with gold chiffon. Waist stay of gold silk.
Bust pads. The skirt is self lined with a rolled and poufed hem. There is a large tuck in the skirt lining, possibly from an alteration.
Label: "Givenchy / Made in France"
C-D) Shoes: matching gold brocade, high heeled pumps. Tan leather soles. Gold leather lining with stamped label in instep.
Label: "Rene Mancini / Paris / Fait Main"
E) Clutch: matching gold brocade envelope clutch with magnetic clasp closure. Pleated accents on flap. Gold interior clips for chain. Ivory silk faille lining with patch pocket.
Label: Rene Mancini. Paris. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30251/
- Evening Suit
Evening suit of black velvet. The ensemble consists of a jacket of black velvet with machine embroidered vine and floral motifs in black threads and black beads. The coat has a notched collar, long sleeves with wide cuffs and two non-functional buttons on each sleeve, and two non-functional pockets at front. Center-front opening with two circular black satin-covered buttons. The lapels, cuffs, and pocket flaps are all of black satin. The knee-length skirt of of the same fabric, with satin waistband. Short zipper closure at side with two hook-and-eyes in waistband.
Designer's label inside jacket at collar: "Givenchy", with model number written on cloth tape sewn underneath label: "74075" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30268/
Pantsuit of black wool.
A) Jacket. Bolero-style cropped jacket has wide collar with soft edges and center front opening with no closure. Cut-away at front and with long sleeves, the jacket has inner shoulder pads and is fully lined in black silk satin.
B) Pants. Full-length, high-waisted, and with tapered legs, the pants have a satin waistband and inverted pleats at top of hips at front and back. Slit pockets at sides open along edge of a black satin stripe which runs length of leg at side. The pants have a side zipper and hook-and-eye closure.
Designer's label: "Yves Saint Laurent / Rive Gauche" "Made in / France" "Paris" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286820/
Pumps of black velvet. Peep-toe shoes have heavy antique-style gold embroidery across vamp and sides. Ankle straps of black velvet with gilt metal buckles encrusted with clear rhinestones. Black leather inner lining. 3 1/2" spike heel covered in black velvet. Black leather soles.
Inlaid cloth label inside each shoe: "Ralph Lauren / Collection"
Stamped on sole of each shoe: "Ralph Lauren / Collection / Made in Italy"; "B / 8" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39035/
Pair of golden beige patent leather pumps with all-over textured golden beige patent leather appliques. The patent leather appliques are bell/tulip shaped and have a pebble texture. Lined in gold metallic leather. 3 1/4" spike heel covered in the applique leather.
Stamped in each shoe: "Rene / Caovilla / Per"
Applied label in each shoe: "Marie Leavell / Made in Italy"
Stamped on sole: "Made / In / Italy" within circle; "7 1/2" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39031/
Pair of light taupe and black leather platform sling-back pumps. Uppers of light taupe leather with black leather toe cap and black-leather platform. Sling-back strap has leather-covered elastic section at center back. 3 1/4" modified continental heel covered in black leather.
Stamped in each shoe: "Yves Saint Laurent".
Stamped on sole: "Leather / Leder / Cuir / Guoid" in hide border; "Made in Italy"; "M"; "7". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39037/
Pair of tan linen platform pumps. Heavy-weight tan linen uppers with rounded throat. 3 3/8" modified continental heel, the heel and platform covered in taupe leather. Sole of black leather. Inner lining of gold metallic leather on all but inner heels, those lined with off-white leather.
Stamped in each shoe: "Yves Saint Laurent".
Stamped on sole: "Leather / Leder / Cuir / Guoid" in hide border; "Made in Italy"; "M"; "7". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39039/
Pair of ivory leather sandals. The heeled sandals are of ivory pebble textured leather simulating alligator. Open-toe design, with wide strap. Heels are in the form of a cut-out wedge, 2 3/4" high.
Stamped in each shoe: "Uffizi".
Stamped inside strap: "7 M / Leather Upper / Man Made Sole / Made in Brazil / 1130".
Stamped on sole: "Uffizi". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39034/
- Shirt Dress
Shirt dress of brown cotton. Knee-length, with v-neckline and shirt-style collar and lapels. Center front opening with square snaps. Two patch pockets at bust with box pleat at center of each; pockets extend to waist seam; elbow-length sleeves with 2” cuff, and inner shoulder pads; skirt with two patch pockets at each side with pleats as upper pockets; pockets extend to hem. Size 42
With matching belt of brown cotton backed with leather; covered rhombus buckle has one elongated angle; 34 ½” length.
Designer's label: "Thierry Mugler / Activ" "Made in Italy" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286949/
- Shirt Dress
Shirt dress of black rayon, cotton, and acrylic; vest of bodice is of a leather-like open-check fabric with two slanted patch pockets at bust with box pleat at center and lapels; shirt collar with open-square notched lapel and snap placket down center-front with snap covers of black squares; elbow-length sleeves; skirt with two patch pockets at each side with pleats below lapel; knee-length. Size 42
With matching belt of black cotton backed with leather; covered rhombus buckle has one elongated angle; 34 ½” length.
Designer's label: "Thierry Mugler / Activ" "Made in Italy" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286896/
- Skirt Suit
Skirt suit of brown wool.
A) Jacket, Lower-hip length, collarless, and with 3 button-and-loop closures at center-front. Long sleeves with slit and single button closure at wrists. Welt pockets at hips, and princess seams. Inner shoulder pads, and brown polyester lining.
B) Matching short skirt, with 1” waistband. Button tab and side zip closure. Waistband is lined with grosgrain ribbon, and the skirt is lined in brown polyester.
Designer's label: "Giorgio Armani / A Milano Borgonuovo 21" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286841/
- Suit - Jacket and Skirt
Suit of black and white wool tweed consisting of:
Fitted jacket. Hip-length with fringed shawl collar. Single breasted and closes with 1 self-covered button with tailored buttonhole and 3 snaps at center front. Two angled faux flap pockets. Princess seams. Long, modified dolman sleeves with underarm gussets. Center back seam and double princess seams in back. Lined in ivory satin with embroidered "CD" on lower right in front.
Designer's label at center back neckline: "Christian Dior / Boutique / Paris"
Size, content, and care label below designer's label.
Skirt. Knee-length with fringed hem, faced waistline and front and back darts. Center back zipper with hook & eye. Lined in ivory silk. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc501314/
- Sunburst Dress
Black "sunburst" evening dress with bustle. The fitted, full-length sheath is of black silk satin with black velvet "sunburst" motif repeated over the dress. The gown is strapless, with diagonally draped over-panels that meet at center front and form a large bow which tilts up to cover the left shoulder. There is a zipper closure along the left sideseam with hook-and-eye closure at neckline which is concealed by the bust panel, which is snapped to the dress and bow. The back waistline seam has a three-tiered ruffled bustle which has a snap at left side to accommodate the zipper. The skirt flares from knee to hemline. There is a boned black silk inner bodice with bust pads and bust and waist stays. The inner bodice has a zipper closure at left side, just inside the outer zipper.
Designer's label inside garment, stitched over right side bone: "Givenchy / Made In / France".
Photograph is from the exhibition Haute Couture - The Great Paris Designers, held at The Grace Museum, Abilene Texas, October 17 - December 30, 2000, and shows the gown as displayed with a hat by Balenciaga (Accession #: 1981.022.026). digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30250/
Evening coat of brocade and fur. The full-length coat is of a pale yellow silk brocade, with a pattern of flowers and scrolls in reds, purples, blues, white, silver, and gold. It has long sleeves and opens along the center front, with no closures. The cuffs and collar are wide bands of dyed purple fox fur. The coat is lined in a pale tan/yellow silk.
Sewn in below collar at inside center back is designer's label: "Designed / by Mouratidis / Washington DC"
Attached inside right side near hip is original paper label printed on one side "Balenciaga / Paris", and written on the back "Brocade evening mystery / coat w/fox / R".
Donated to the Texas Fashion Collection by Helen Noumas, in memory of her partner Michael Mouratidis, designer of the piece. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30321/
Coat of intricate patchwork of Prince of Wales wool plaid, wool hounds tooth, wool petit point, all-over embroidered with pewter metallic floral vines. Knee length. Simulated double breasted, off-center opening with hidden placket button closure; notched collar. Long sleeves with 6 functioning button closure at wrists. Two flap pockets with welts at each front hip with lapels; pockets not open. Knee-length. Fan pleating at back. Fully lined in gray silk.
Designer's label at center back neckline: "Givenchy / Haute Couture" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc402522/
Dress of violet, pink, blue and grey silk chiffon printed in a rose motif. Full-length, with rounded neckline and full-length sleeves that flare and are split at wrist. Skirt gathered at natural waist. Skirt with middle layer of dark pink chiffon, and inner lining layer of pink nylon(?). Center back opening, bodice with 7 button and loops and 8 covered snaps, and one hook-and-eye at neck. Skirt with 2 covered snaps on outer layer, zipper for attached inner layers, and hook-and-loop just below waistband.
Designer's label at inside back, just below waist: "[Japanese characters] / Hanae Mori"
Retailer's label at inside back, below waist: "Neiman-Marcus"
Size label attached to designer's label: "12"
With a chiffon scarf, of fabric matching outer layer of dress. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc501372/
Evening ensemble of brown silk jersey and sequined appliques.
A) Dress. Sleeveless, the full-length sheath dress has 1” wide straps which are embellished with length-wise decorative top stitching. The dress has an empire waist, and a modified sweetheart neckline. The bust is covered with floral/leaf form appliques which are covered in translucent brown sequins and edged in gold metallic thread. Center back zipper closure from top to mid-back, and slit from center back lower hem upwards. Lined in brown polyester.
B) Jacket. The matching jacket is of bolero form, cropped short, with no collar and a slightly undulating neckline which continues along the edges of the center front opening, and the lower edge. Long sleeves have cuffs with same edging. The whole jacket is overlaid with floral/leaf form velvet appliques edged in metallic gold threading and covered with sequins in various shades of brown. Jacket has inner shoulder pads and is lined in brown polyester.
Designer's label: "Liancarlo / Couture"
Retailer's label: "Neiman Marcus" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286793/
- Evening Dress
Evening dress of green crepe with strapless bodice with wide M-shape neckline; bodice is gathered in a zig-zag wrapping and tucking down center-front to hips; skirt wraps around to the left; ankle-length; center-back zip closure; lined in green synthetic.
No labels in garment. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286802/
- Evening Dress
Evening gown of red silk jersey with strapless bodice; bodice is fan pleated, with pleating converging at center front and back in a triangle; full-length with dipped hem in back; fully lined in red silk satin; left side zip closure; bust support structure within bodice with side hook and eye closure. Size 4
Designer's label: "Carmen Marc Valvo" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286781/
- Evening Gown
Evening gown of black velvet. The strapless, full-length gown is tulip-style, with structured bodice and flaring skirt from just below hip. The interior is lined in acetate with skirt slip trimmed in 2 ruffles of fine net. Inside the bottom of the skirt are 2 under-skirts of ruffled fine net. Gown has a center-back zipper and hook-and-eye closure.
Designer's label at inside back: "Patricia Rhodes / PR"
Size label: "6"
Content/Care label. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286838/
- Evening Gown
Evening gown of brown silk. The full-length gown is strapless, with stitched horizontal pleats at left bodice; skirt wraps over toward the left and both crescent shaped sides are trimmed in a pleated ruffle flounce with a shorter ruffle flounce revealing the longer one; bound edges and hemline; lined in brown acetate; center-back zip closure.
Designer's label: "Liancarlo / Couture"
Retailer's label: "Neiman Marcus" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286816/
Jacket of Golden Spotted Seal fur with rounded collar and lapels; double breasted button accents with buttons of pearl grey circle set in gold metallic soft square; 4 fur covered belt loops, 2 on front and 2 on back, front belt loops are accented with self-buttons (right side button missing); two slit pockets at sides are lined in grey silk satin; long sleeves, pockets and jacket opening are trimmed in leather piping; 2 concealed metal hook and leather eye closures, one at bust and one at waist; fully lined in grey silk satin; hits at below hips.
Label inside coat: Expressly made for William Schmidt/ OSLO/ 1853.
With belt of black leather with oval, silver metal buckle; 2” width. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc283730/
- Skirt Suit
Skirt suit of purple worsted wool.
A) Jacket has collar with long lapel with geometric cut edge; geometric cuts along hem line; double breasted snap closure with 2 purple faux buttons at front; princess seams; long sleeves with vents at the wrists, and inner shoulder pads; hits at hips.
B) Skirt with two vents at front hemline; center-back zip and hook and eye closure; 19 ½” length.
Designer's label: "Thierry Mugler / Paris" "Made in France" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286939/
- Necklace - Banjara Festival Attire
Necklace. Torc-style necklace of silver, twisted and with wire wrapping at ends. Rigid hook at front to connect ends, and with a single Indian 25 Paise coin mounted near each side of clasp, with pendant silver beads. Suspended from the ends, near the clasp, are two large triangular ornaments of silver openwork, from which are suspended short lengths of silver chain terminating in silver spheres.
Coins date from 1982 and 1988. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc461854/
Navy blue and white leather pumps. All leather pumps of navy blue leather printed with a polka dot white button motif. Heel and toe of shoe are of solid navy blue leather. Lined in embossed gold leather. Black leather sole.
Designer's label stamped inside: "Bruno Magli / Made in Italy Bologna"
Satmped inside: "C 4141 11702 5 1/2B" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc87063/
- Necklace - Rabari Festival Attire
Necklace. Long necklace basket-weave links on which are strung tubular silver beads and mounted Indian coins. Center section composed of three larger coins, each with three pendant coins, from which hang small fringes of chain and spheres. No clasp, long flat strip at back. 16 single coins are 25 Paise from India, various dates from 1976 to 1988; 2 pendants are 50 Paise from India, dates obscured by mounts; 1 pendant is a 1979 1 Rupee from India; The 9 smaller pendant coins below main pendants are 25 Paise coins from India, dated from 1975 to 1987. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc461845/
- D'Orsay Pumps
Pair of D'Orsay pumps of pink leather. The shoes have cut-away sides and rounded toes. The toebox and heel uppers of pink leather, with pink leather strap from heels to secure around ankle with small oval gilt metal buckle. 3 1/4" high stacked wooden heel tapers to base.
Stamped leather label inside: "Joan & David Too / Made in Italy"
Stamped on sole: "Made in Italy / Vero Cuoio / 8 1/2" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc86963/
- Evening Dress
Evening dress of black chiffon and rayon with light and royal blue glitter embellishment throughout. Full length, with high round neckline and long raglan sleeves with hidden snaps at edge of cuffs. Built-in shoulder padding. Empire waistline, with slight gathering of blouse/skirt, and blousing effect. Center back opening, with 4 hooks and loops from neckline to waistline, and zipper from waistline down. Black rayon lining from bust to hem of dress.
Designer's label: "Victor Costa"
Style/manufacturing label listing style 6843-4, size 8, and codes "CON DOW" and "RN 49563"
Origin label, "Crafted with pride in U.S.A."
Care label: "Dry Clean / in / a net". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc503771/
Dress shoe of mint green satin. 2" heel. 'King Louis' style pumps. Pointed toe. Ornament on vamp with embroidery of a pink rose and green foliage on yellow background.
Left- "Pietro / Last / Neiman Marcus"
Right- "Neiman Marcus" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc277081/
Dress shoe of yellow satin. 2" heel. 'King Louis' style pumps. Pointed toe. Ornament on vamp with embroidery of a pink rose and green foliage on yellow background.
Left- "Pietro / Last / Neiman Marcus"
Right- "Neiman Marcus" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc276972/
Ensemble of red/coral/dark rose satin. The strapless dress has an empire bodice which curves up in front at bust and is lower in back. The full-length A-line skirt is pleated into the waistband with inverted box pleats. The gown has a center back zipper closure with two hook-and-eye closures and two snaps on the placket. The inner construction is complex, with red grosgrain ribbon bust and waist stays with hook-and-eye closures and a boned white horsehair inner bodice which is lined with red chiffon. Inner structure has its own center back zipper closure which is behind outer zipper. There is an attached full-length red satin petticoat with horsehair hem and nylon net inner structure to support front skirt pleats. The skirt is piece lined in red chiffon. The accompanying bolero jacket is of matching red satin with all-over quilting in a patterns of waves and arcs in a red thread. The cropped jacket is semi-fitted, and has an open curved neckline and center-front opening with no closure, all trimmed in a band of red satin. Each of the set-in long sleeves has a (non-functioning) large, red satin-covered button near the cuff; the cuffs are trimmed in a band of red satin. The jacket is lined in olive green satin, which shows the quilting, and has built-in shoulder pads.
There are no labels in the garment. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30259/
- Day Dress
Day dress of printed golden yellow silk patterned overall with purple, orange and red flowers, green leaves, and black dots. The knee-length dress has a jewel neckline and padded shoulders. The long sleeves have 3" zippered cuffs. The dress has a dropped waist with three-tier, knife pleated skirt. Center back zipper with hook & eye. Lined in yellow organza.
Designer's label at left underarm: "Galanos"
Retailer's label at right underarm: "I. Magnin"
Care label to right of retailer's label. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc503820/
Tunic dress of silk chiffon with under dress of silk knit.
Tunic dress knee-length, with high-rounded neckline in front and deep, scooped, plunging neckline in back. Neckline edged with spaced large faux pearls. Long sleeves, and handkerchief hem. The tunic dress has overall-embellishment of white pearls, iridescent sequins, white seed pearls, silvered seed beads, bugle beads and crystal drops designed as New York skyline. Evidence that designer's label has been removed.
The under dress of white silk knit is ankle-length, with high rounded front neckline and cowl back neckline with horizontal ties and crystal pendants. Handkerchief hemline.
Designer's label at side seam: "Zandra Rhodes / London" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc283754/
Dress of blue chiffon. The floor-length dress is formed of two layers, an inner sheath, and an outer layer which is fully ruched, covering the inner sheath completely with layers of draping, and affixed to the inner layer at the neckline, zipper, and at cuffs. The dress has a V-neck at both front and back. The ruching forms "swags" which join at the neckline and center seams on front and back. The three-quarter length sleeves are similarly ruched, anchored along seams running from shoulder to wrist. Center back zipper and hook-and-eye closure. Inner grosgrain ribbon band just below bust which secures with hook-and-eye closure.
Designer's label sewn inside at ribbon band: "Halston". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30331/
- Ensemble - Jacket, Blouse, and Skirt
Ensemble of red silk with bead embellishment.
a) Jacket of red silk. Notched collar with band of garnet colored seed bead rope edged in matching bugle beads around collar. Closure of five self-covered buttons with bound buttonholes and supplemented with a snap at the collar. Two side patch pockets are trimmed in a looping, scalloped band of beads matching the collar with vertical lines of bugle beads "raining" over the pockets. Pockets are outlined in matching bugle beads. Long, set-in sleeves. Fully lined in red silk satin; padded shoulders.
Joint Designer's/Retailer's label at inner back neck: "Michael Faircloth / at / Lilly Dodson"
Style/Model(?) label sewn to bottom of above label: "0382"
b) Skirt of red silk. Straight with 1-1/2" waistband elasticized at back. Two darts at front; knee-length. Lined in red silk satin.
Joint Designer's/Retailer's label at center back waist: "Michael Faircloth / at / Lilly Dodson"
Joint Designer's/Retailer's label at inner back waistband: "Michael Faircloth / at / Lilly Dodson"
c) Blouse of red silk satin with wide, V-neckline and short sleeves. Pull-over style with 2 darts at bust. Unlined. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc499001/
- Ensemble - Jacket, Blouse, and Skirt
Ensemble of gold and black lamé.
a) Cropped jacket of gold and black lamé. Notched collar; long, fitted, set-in sleeves. Fully lined in black satin; shoulder pads.
Designer's label at center back neckline: "Midon"
Cleaning instructions label beneath designer's label: "Professionally / Dry Clean Only"
b) Matching skirt. Waist gathers into a 2-1/2" waistband. Below knee length. Center back zippered closure with 4 hook & bars on waistband. Side slit pockets. Lined in black fabric.
c) Blouse of black organza with bands gold and silver lamé. Long, fitted, set-in sleeves gathered at shoulders. Collar forms rectangular tie. Closure of four gold eye-shaped buttons with circular black onyx centers and barred buttonholes. Lined in black fabric. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc499038/