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UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Texas Fashion Collection
Hat of brown and coral pink felted rabbit fur. The high cylindrical crown has alternating horizontal stripes of brown and coral pink rabbit fur, with thin bands of gold lamé cording between the bands. The low, sloping, narrow brim is of brown fur with a visible lining of pink fur. Tied around the base of the crown is a double-strand of the gold lamé cording, knotted at side with hanging ends. The hat has an inner white grosgrain ribbon hatband, and is lined in grey felt.
Sewn to the inner ribbon band is designer's label: "Ian / D" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc461878/
Evening pantsuit of ivory, blue, and black striped silk consisting of three pieces:
a) Mid-length jacket of vertically striped silk with very wide, straight sleeves. Center front opening with no closure. Attached shoulder pads.
(b) Pants of matching silk. Full-length, with center back snaps and hook-and-eye closure. Designed to fit loosely, with drawstring waist.
(c) Short sleeved tank-style top of matching silk. Sleeveless, with round neckline. The hem, armholes, and neckline are trimmed in black.
Each piece has designer's label "Oscar de la Renta". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30336/
- Skirt Suit
Suit of black ribbed fabric.
(a) jacket with notched collar of sateen; center front welted button closure; pink buttons with gold snake; armhole princess seams; double darts from pocket to bust point; faux single welt pockets with gathers; long sleeves with curved half cuffs in pink sateen with button closure; armhole princess seams on back; pink lining; pleat at center back.
(b) matching knee-length skirt; waistband; 1 front waist dart; 1 front princess seam; center back closure; waistline darts; black lining. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30318/
- Sweater Suit
Sweater suit of black and white lambswool knit.
a) Sweater jacket of black and white lambswool. Black bodice with long sleeves and trim in black and white argyle pattern. Collarless with five large black leather square buttons down center front. Two front patch pockets. White lining with shoulder pads.
Designer's label at center back neckline: "Yves Saint Laurent / rive gauche / Made in France / Paris"
Size "34" label and cleaning instructions labels at inside left seam.
b) Skirt of black lambswool knit with 7 inch band of black and white argyle border at hemline. Waist gathers into 3-1/2 inch waistband with left side zipper. Calf length. Unlined.
Designer's label at center back: "Yves Saint Laurent / rive gauche / Made in France / Paris"
Size "38" label and cleaning instructions labels at inside right seam. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc402469/
Coat of printed satin. The floor-length coat has a rounded neckline and a center-front opening that extends the entire length of the garment and is secured with a single cloth-covered circular button at the throat. It has long sleeves and is fully lined in a salmon damask silk woven with a floral-foliate design. The entire garment is photo-printed with scenes of room interiors in various styles.
Designer's label sewn inside at back collar: "Todd Oldham".
From Oldham's Spring 1997 collection. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30294/
Coat of black wool. The hip-length coat is constructed of black felted wool with yellow, red, green, brown, blue, and orange bands of grosgrain ribbon woven in and out of the wool, forming a grid or trellis pattern over the entire garment. The coat has a notched collar and long sleeves, and has a center-front closure with three circular silver colored metal buttons. It is fully lined with black silk.
Designer's label sewn inside at back collar: "Todd Oldham".
From Oldham's Fall 1996 collection. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30296/
Dress of photo-printed knit. The sheath-style dress is of a polyester/lycra blend sueded knit. Full-length, the dress has a "crew neck" rounded neckline with slight standing collar and short cap sleeves. The dress widens at the hips and tapers to the hem, and has a back vent slit at center back from hem up 47.5cm. The entire garment is photo-printed with images of "travel scenes" of the west - roads, lakes, cacti, cows on farms, rock formations, etc.
Designer's label inside at back collar: "Todd / Oldham"
Three tags inside near hem:
Care: "Dry Clean / Only / Made / In U.S.A."
Content: "85% Polyester / 15% Lycra".
From Oldham's Spring 1996 collection. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30299/
Pumps of Prince of Wales plaid wool in gray with blue and yellow undertones. The shoes are designed with a gently pointed toe and plain upper, and are lined in tan kid. The 3" French heel is covered in same fabric.
Maker's stamp inside shoe: "DAL CO' / ROMA"
Handwritten style number(?) inside both shoes: "621" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc461793/
Skirt of open weave silk ribbons. The floor-length skirt is created of loosely woven silk ribbons of yellow, red, blue, green, pink, orange, brown, white, and black, forming a lattice or trellis. It gathers into the orange waistband, which has a single hook-and-eye closure, and is unlined.
No labels in garment. Designed Fall 1996. Gift of the Todd Oldham Archives.
Bodice in image is a modern wrap placed on form for display purposes. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30295/
- Skirt Suit
Daytime skirt suit of Prince of Wales check wool in gray with pink and brown check. The skirt suit consists of: A) Jacket, hip length, with full-length sleeves. Center front opening secured with hooks and eyes. 4 pockets at front, each with turned-back cuff pockets of silk brocade at breast level and below waist; the silk brocade of ecru background with pink and red flowers on green vines; asymmetric flared peplum at back featuring geometric cut; stand up collar is lined in matching silk brocade. B) Skirt of matching wool, straight and knee-length, with an 8” slit at center-back with inset of fan-like accordion pleated godet. C) Two matching pair of shoes, one pair of silk brocade matching the pocket flaps, and the other pair of gray wool matching the rest of the outfit. Both pair are heeled pumps designed with pointed toe, the heels are a modified spike. Lined in gold leather. The shoes are all stamped "Dal Co' / Roma". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc461875/
- Evening Gown
Evening Gown consisting of:
a) Evening dress of black chiffon with over-layer of black chiffon with periwinkle maritime prints of rope and shells; bodice is embellished with chevron-shaped over-layer of printed chiffon trimmed with ruffles of black tulle accented with beads at scoop neckline and falls over shoulders; skirt has chevron-shape of printed chiffon at upper portion trimmed in ruffles of black tulle with flounces of black tulle layered to hem; all flounces and ruffles are trimmed with periwinkle thread; ruffles are accented with beads at bodice, and beads and black satin ribbon at upper skirt; empire-waist is elasticized; skirt is full and layered to full-length.
Designer's label at back neckline: "Zandra Rhodes / London"
Size tag attached to designer's label: "English Size 10 / American Size 8"
b) Decorative corset of black grosgrain ribbon embellished with royal blue sequins and accented with blue marquise-shaped faceted beads. Lace closure at one end and steel hook and eye closure at the other end. 5 ½” at sides and 9” at ends; 24 ½” length.
Designer's label: "Zandra Rhodes / London"
c) Petticoat of black tulle trimmed in periwinkle thread with 14” ruffle trimmed flounce at hem; under-layer of black satin; satin waistband with hook and eye closures at 8” piped slit; full-length.
Designer's label at back closure: "Zandra Rhodes / London"
Cleaning instructions tag attached to designer's label
Size tag attached to designer's label: "English Size 10 / American Size 8" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc283736/
- Riddler Cocktail Dress
Dress of sueded black polyester/lycra knit with green "Riddler" question marks printed in various sizes, the question marks covered in applied clear novelty "sequins". The knee-length dress has a scoop neckline, and spaghetti straps formed of gray metal (pewter?) question marks set with emerald green rhinestones. Unlined. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc499033/
- Riddler Dress
Dress of black sueded polyester/lycra knit with green "Riddler" question marks printed in various sizes. The t-shirt style dress is knee length, with rounded neckline and short sleeves. Unlined. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc499057/
- Riddler Jacket
Jacket of black polyester satin printed with green "Riddler" question marks of various sizes. The hip-length jacket is single breasted with three oval gray metal (pewter?) "Batman" symbol buttons, and notched collar. Two front patch pockets. Long sleeves. Lined in green polyester satin with large black question mark on center back. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc499021/
Dress of striped cotton broadcloth. The "house dress" style garment is street-length, in various patterns of woven striped cotton broadcloth. It has a center front opening that extends the length of the dress and secures with 7 gold-colored metal buttons set with colored rhinestones and on hidden hook-and-eye closure at waist. The wide collar is primarily in yellow with very narrow stripes of orange and blue. The bodice is of vertical stripes of reds, purples, pinks, etc. The skirt, which gathers into the natural waist, is in vertical stripes of blues with thin maroon and green accent stripes. The short sleeves are in stripes of blues, red, yellow and white, and have french cuffs secured with metal rhinestone-set cuff-links. The dress is unlined. The accompanying belt/sash is of the same fabric as the sleeves, and is finished at the ends as cuffs with sewn-on cuff-links matching the sleeves.
Designer's label sewn inside at back collar: "Todd / Oldham".
Four labels sewn inside skirt at side seam:
Content: "100% / Cotton"
Care: "Dry Clean / Only"
Origin: "Made / In U.S.A."
From Oldham's Spring 1994 collection. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30298/
- Evening Jacket
Evening jacket of black net and gold embellishments. Collarless neckline has slight scalloped effect. Long sleeves and flared shape from waistline. Center front opening with zipper having a black tassel with 3 strands of covered globes. Constructed of layered netting with encased gold lame cut outs and leaf motifs of black lace, gold lace, beading, sequins and gold braid by Lesage.
Designer's label at left side seam near armhole: "Pierre Balmain / Paris"
Style number on back of designer's label: "172.377" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc501364/
Sandals of silver leather. The shoes have an open, square toe, and wide strap which wraps around ankle and buckles around lower ankle with a large silver-tone buckle. 2 1/2" heel, 1" wide, 1 1/2" deep.
Label: "abstracts" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc115020/
- Wedding Dress
Wedding ensemble. The dress is of creme satin styled as a sleeveless A-line dress, with wide shoulder straps. The neckline of the bodice is embellished with rows of satin cording forming a cross-over design. The skirt has a high waistline, and is formed of a lattice of groups of four vertical and four horizontal rows of satin cording, with a backing of creme gauze.
Label sewn into inside back of dress: "Victor Costa / Bridal"
With veil of silk tulle with satin binding, not shown in photograph. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30279/
- Ensemble - Blouse and Pants
Blouse/Top of black satin, slightly cropped, with short sleeves. Top is covered in sequins in wide horizontal black bands, red bands, and "plaid" band of bugle beads and smaller sequins. Wide red bands at sleeve ends. Pointed black satin collar and placket center front opening with 4 faceted, conical clear jeweled buttons. Lined in black satin.
Designer's label at center back neckline: "Geoffrey Beene / New York"
Pants of black synthetic fiber. Full-length. High waisted; higher at front than back. Slit pockets at sides, with large pocket flaps, with a matching jewel button at each lower corner. Center back zipper. Lined in black crepe.
Designer's label at inside back waistband, near zipper: "Geoffrey Beene / New York"
Size label: "4"
Care label: "Dry Clean / Only"
Union label. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc503785/
- Evening Ensemble
A) Bustier bodice of white lace. Cropped. Black organza lower "skirt" to bodice. Wide band of lace at top, attached in four places (perhaps for arms or shoulders). Center back zipper closure.
Designer's label: "Oscar de la Renta" and "Made in USA" tag; Size label: "6"
B) Skirt of ruffled black net. Full length. Inner full organza skirt with wide hem band of horsehair stiffener. Outer full skirt of black net with 21 (?) layers of ruffled black dotted net.
C) Belt of black leather, covered in black fabric. Black fabric covered square buckle.
Stamped on reverse: "4 Oscar de la Renta 717" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30267/
- Wedding Ensemble
Wedding ensemble of ivory silk embroidered with green and yellow crewel flowers. The bodice of the dress is sleeveless, with scoop neck and fitted seaming. The skirt is floor-length at front, with train at back. The surface of the skirt is decorated with crewel embroidery of flowers in pinks, greens, reds, and blues. The lower part of the skirt has a wide band of lace in floral patterns, with an under layer of pleated plain net with embroidered dots. The dress has a center back zipper closure and is lined in ivory fabric, and has an attached petticoat. Matching the dress is a fitted jacket of ivory silk, long sleeves, and stand-up collar. The collar and cuffs are trimmed in the same net as the hem of the dress. The fitted jacket has a peplum and center front closure with four silk cord frog closures which snap on left side and disguise a series of snaps and hook-and-eyes. The collar, cuffs, and panels at front and back are bordered by striped bands of yellow, blue, green, and coral/pink ribbon. The panels formed on front and back have crewel embroidered flowers as the dress. Jacket is fully lined in ivory fabric. Not shown in photo is the accompanying hat of ivory silk. The low ivory silk brim is tear-drop in shape, the point at the front edge of the hat. The rolled brim encircles the lace crown and anchors the ivory net slight veil which extends around brim. At back of hat is short "tail" of net. Hat has an off-white grosgrain inner hat-band and a black cord to secure hat to wearer's head. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30283/
Dress and belt. The dress has an empire-length bodice of white organdy with short sleeves, deep V-neckline in front and shallow boat neckline in back and is densely beaded with large and small white beads. From the lower edge of the beaded bodice a band of blue silk satin with a printed pattern of different sizes of white polka dots extends down to dropped waist length, covering the midriff. The full skirt, of the same polka dot material, is above-the-knee length, and has box pleats which start from the dropped waist level. The dress has a zipper closure along the left side seam of the midriff section, and the closure continues up along the lower part of the empire bust line seam to the base of the V-neckline with a series of alternating covered snaps and hook-and-eyes. The bodice section is lined with white organdy, the midriff section with blue silk, and the skirt is unlined. Designer's label is sewn inside bodice near right armhole: "Givenchy" "Made in France", with a second label sewn underneath with handwritten notation "80932". The dress has an accompanying belt covered with matching blue fabric with printed polka dots and backed with black leather. The buckle is also covered with blue polka dot fabric. The belt has no labels or marks.
Not shown in photo are matching high-heeled pumps by Rene Mancini, Pairs, and matching envelope clutch handbag also by Mancini.
From Givenchy's Spring 1992 Collection. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30252/
- Evening Dress
Evening dress of gold and multicolored printed hounds tooth patern satin. The full-length gown is designed with a wide "bateau" neckline with almost off-the-shoulder short puffed sleeves, a long waist into which is gathered the full skirt. The gown has an all-over pattern of horizontal bands of hounds tooth in various colors and gold: purple, orange, green and yellow. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc283726/
- Evening Dress
Evening dress of royal blue with gold and silver jacquard celestial sun and star motif. Slim, wrap style, with asymmetric left side opening and closure of six large snaps and two hook & eyes. Long sleeves with zipper closure at hem. Floor length. Lined in blue silk. With belt of black leather covered in same blue/gold jacquard, which also covers the oval buckle.
Designer's label at center back neckline: "Scaasi / Boutique"
Labels at left side seam: Size: "6" Care: "Dry Clean / Only"
ILGWU label: "613889"
Style number(?) pinned to inside right center front of dress: "1078"
Stamped on back: "Scaasi 9118"; and with masking tape labeled "1078" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc498993/
- Evening Gown
Evening dress of black velvet and fuchsia satin. The dress has an empire-length bodice of black velvet, with a scoop neckline and long fitted sleeves which have hidden zipper closures. The Empire waistline is accented with a horizontal band of fuchsia satin with bow at center front. Extending down from the waistband is the full fuchsia satin skirt. The full-length skirt has vertical inverted pleats edged with bands of black velvet that extend from the waistband to just below the hips. At center back is a zipper closure. The bodice is lined in black silk, and has a black grosgrain ribbon inner waistband which secures with hook-and-eyes. The skirt has an inner slip lining of fuchsia fabric with a wide fuchsia satin hem matching the skirt.
Designer label stitched into garment at right center-back, beside the zipper "Oscar de la Renta" with second label "Made in U.S.A." sewn below. Hand written on the designer label is notation "5638 F-92". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30270/
- Wedding Dress
Wedding dress of hot pink net with shirred all-over appliques and rhinestones. Dress is a short sheath style with V-neck and long sleeves with full length train in back with pink satin bustle with pink silk flowers.
Has a matching headpiece with hot pink net veil, not photographed. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286837/
- Ensemble - Jacket, Skirt, Blouse and Scarf
Ensemble of teal silk Ottoman. The suit consists of a jacket and skirt, blouse, and scarf. The jacket is of horizontally ribbed teal silk, banded on the bias, has a rounded neckline, is long sleeved, and has princess seaming for a tailored fit. The sleeves have soft pleating at the shoulders, and there are 3 circular gold buttons set with rhinestones at each cuff. There is a center front closure with 4 large buttons matching the style of sleeve buttons and one hidden snap at top. The buttonholes are hidden in the seam of the opening. The jacket is lined in black silk. The jacket has designer's label sewn inside at back of neck: "Richard Brooks". The matching skirt is of the same silk Ottoman, below-knee length, with soft pleats at front and darts at back from waistband down 5 1/2". Small slit at center back from hem upwards. The sides are cut on straight vertical stripe. The waistband has hook and two eyes, and there is a center back zipper closure. The skirt is lined in teal silk. There are no labels in the skirt. The blouse is of a thin teal green and metallic gold jacquard, woven with an ornate all-over paisley pattern. There is a banded collar and slight pleating/gathering on front at yoke, and at top of the long sleeves. Center back zipper closure extends from collar almost to hem, and has two hook-and-eyes at collar. The blouse has attached shoulder pads. There is no label in the blouse. An accompanying scarf is of iridescent teal silk chiffon, edged with the same jacquard materials the blouse is made from. There is no label on the scarf.
Designed for Texas Governor Ann Richards.
The silk is from Abraham Fabric. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30305/
- Ensemble - Jacket, Skirts and Blouse
Ensemble of rose silk. The suit consists of a jacket, two skirts and a blouse. The jacket is made from a 1930's sari of pale pink silk embroidered with gold and silver threads, beads, and pink sequins in designs of vines, flowers and abstract line patterns. Jacket has a floating yoke and full leg-o-mutton sleeves with long narrow cuffs that have zipper closures. The jacket itself has a center front opening with no closure. The neckline, edges of closure, hem, and cuffs are edged in heavily beaded bands added by the designer. Designer's label sewn inside back at neck: "Richard Brooks". The blouse is of heavy pink silk, collarless, with round neckline. It is short-sleeved, with pleating at the shoulder. Vertical seaming on front and back for structure. There is a concealed center-back closure with snap at top and 5 clear plastic circular buttons down the length. The blouse is lined in a dark, dusty pink silk and has sewn-in shoulder pads. Designer's label is sewn inside back to the left of the opening: "Richard Brooks". The two skirts are are both of identical pink silk, matching the blouse, of identical construction. One is knee-length, and the other is full-length. Both are lined in the same pink silk as the jacket. The short skirt has designer's label sewn in at waistband: "Richard Brooks".
Worn by Governor Ann Richards when she spoke at the Gridiron Club in Washington, 1992. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30304/
Coat in trench style of burgundy satin with burgundy dyed fox fur trim on shawl collar and cuffs. Full-length; center front opening. Vertical side welt pockets. Lined in black silk. With tie belt of burgundy satin, 1 1/2" wide; top-stitched.
Designer's label at center back neckline: "Fourrure / Givenchy" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc501323/
- Cocktail Dress
Cocktail dress of gold metallic French lace in floral motif over an under dress of fleshed-toned charmeuse silk. Knee length, with a folded yoke panel which forms a V-shaped neckline with lace trim. Short sleeves and empire waist each with a 1" gold lace trim. Center back zipper.
Designer's label at right of zipper: "Midon" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc498986/
- Cocktail Ensemble - Vest, Blouse, and Pants
Cocktail ensemble consisting of a long vest, pants, and top of silk brocade.
A) Vest of off-white silk and gold metallic thread in pebble textured weave. Non-uniform, various sized squares are separated by veins of gold threads giving a reptilian pattern. Sleeveless with shoulder pads. Mid-thigh length. Collarless, V-neckline with 2 button closure at waist. Unlined.
Designer's label at center back neckline: "Michael Faircloth"
B) Pants of warm gold four-ply silk. Straight leg; full length. Center back zipper closure; 3" sections of elastic at right-back and left-back waistline. Lined with gold silk satin.
C) Blouse of warm gold chiffon with 2" to 3" pleated ring collar. Long sleeves are gathered into piped cuffs with button and loop closure. Center back zipper closure; shoulder pads. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc498997/
Dress of red chiffon, sequins and beading. The bodice of the dress is of draped red chiffon with deep V-neckline at front and shawl collar with deep drape at back. The long, full sleeves gather into tight cuffs, each having four red chiffon covered domed buttons and red fabric loops. At the natural waist of the dress is a horizontally ruched band which gives the effect of a sash of the same material, with simulated bow and trailing ends. The bodice simulates a wrap dress, with one side of the collar ends becoming part of the bow of the sash, and the other securing inside with a snap. The bow conceals three hook-and-eye closures and the top of the zipper closure. The short skirt is completely covered with sequins and beads. Black sequins run in horizontal and vertical bands forming a grid/trellis pattern. The vertical rectangular spaces within the grid are filled with rectangles of sequins in green, black, white and orange/red, or with tubular beads in white/iridescent, gray and yellow. There are also scattered irregular patches of orange white or green sequins on the black sequin grid. The skirt is lined in black fabric.
Designer's label sewn inside at right neckline: "Arnold Scaasi"; pinned-in label at hem with hand-written notation: "5019"
From Scaasi's Fall 1990 collection. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc38119/
Dress of hammered pale pink silk/wool blend crepe. High neck with scoop front, empire waist, sleeveless. Bodice is topstitched/quilted all over in 1/4" parallel rows with stitches on front following the contour lines of the armholes and neckline on front piece. Back made of three panels, with side panels with stitches following contour lines of armholes and middle panel echoing the contours from the front of dress. Bodice inner layer of same, but not stitched through. Full-length double skirt with hammer finish has 4 center front tucks and back princess seams, flares gently; inner skirt of self has 4" of feathers at hem with 2" showing below outer skirt. Invisible zipper with hook and loop on left back princess seam.
Designer label: "CHADO / Ralph Rucci"
Size label: "10"
Content label: "60 % silk / 40% wool"
Care label: "Dry Clean / Only / Made / in U.S.A"
With scarf of brown and white silk chiffon; brown ombre along edges fades to white center; 108" x 55".
Designer label (double label, identical): "CHADO / Ralph Rucci" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc499022/
- Evening Dress and Jacket Ensemble
A) Evening dress of white crocheted silk floral lace over ivory chiffon. The full-length strapless sheath dress has a body-skimming silhouette and a straight-line upper edge at bust trimmed with a band of ivory satin. Hemline dips at back, and creates a very slight train effect. Size 8
B) Jacket of double faced ivory silk satin with open-front and shawl collar which extends to waist-length hem. Long dolman sleeves extend to hem with gauntlet cuff with 2 ½” slit. Size 6
Designer's label: "Pamela Dennis / New York" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286884/
- Evening Dress, Purse, and Shoes
Gold patterned evening dress with jacket, shoes and clutch.
A) Jacket: tailored, cropped shell in peacock eye, gold metallic brocade with red and mauve highlights. Jewel neckline with full-length set-in sleeves. The neckline and cuffs are embellished with wide bands of gold cord, gold beads and large gold, yellow and red rhinestones. Fully lined in gold silk. Shoulder pads.
B) Dress: Fitted, slightly dropped waist, sleeveless bodice with scooped neckline and low plunging back. Centerback zipper closure with a single hook & eye at the neckline. Slightly dropped waistseam with full, gathered, pouf skirt. The skirt has an asymetrical hem falling from knee-level centerfront to mid-calf centerback. Sideseam hip-level pockets. The bodice piece lined with gold chiffon. Waist stay of gold silk.
Bust pads. The skirt is self lined with a rolled and poufed hem. There is a large tuck in the skirt lining, possibly from an alteration.
Label: "Givenchy / Made in France"
C-D) Shoes: matching gold brocade, high heeled pumps. Tan leather soles. Gold leather lining with stamped label in instep.
Label: "Rene Mancini / Paris / Fait Main"
E) Clutch: matching gold brocade envelope clutch with magnetic clasp closure. Pleated accents on flap. Gold interior clips for chain. Ivory silk faille lining with patch pocket.
Label: Rene Mancini. Paris. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30251/
- Evening Suit
Evening suit of black velvet. The ensemble consists of a jacket of black velvet with machine embroidered vine and floral motifs in black threads and black beads. The coat has a notched collar, long sleeves with wide cuffs and two non-functional buttons on each sleeve, and two non-functional pockets at front. Center-front opening with two circular black satin-covered buttons. The lapels, cuffs, and pocket flaps are all of black satin. The knee-length skirt of of the same fabric, with satin waistband. Short zipper closure at side with two hook-and-eyes in waistband.
Designer's label inside jacket at collar: "Givenchy", with model number written on cloth tape sewn underneath label: "74075" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30268/
Pantsuit of black wool.
A) Jacket. Bolero-style cropped jacket has wide collar with soft edges and center front opening with no closure. Cut-away at front and with long sleeves, the jacket has inner shoulder pads and is fully lined in black silk satin.
B) Pants. Full-length, high-waisted, and with tapered legs, the pants have a satin waistband and inverted pleats at top of hips at front and back. Slit pockets at sides open along edge of a black satin stripe which runs length of leg at side. The pants have a side zipper and hook-and-eye closure.
Designer's label: "Yves Saint Laurent / Rive Gauche" "Made in / France" "Paris" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286820/
Pumps of black velvet. Peep-toe shoes have heavy antique-style gold embroidery across vamp and sides. Ankle straps of black velvet with gilt metal buckles encrusted with clear rhinestones. Black leather inner lining. 3 1/2" spike heel covered in black velvet. Black leather soles.
Inlaid cloth label inside each shoe: "Ralph Lauren / Collection"
Stamped on sole of each shoe: "Ralph Lauren / Collection / Made in Italy"; "B / 8" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39035/
Pair of golden beige patent leather pumps with all-over textured golden beige patent leather appliques. The patent leather appliques are bell/tulip shaped and have a pebble texture. Lined in gold metallic leather. 3 1/4" spike heel covered in the applique leather.
Stamped in each shoe: "Rene / Caovilla / Per"
Applied label in each shoe: "Marie Leavell / Made in Italy"
Stamped on sole: "Made / In / Italy" within circle; "7 1/2" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39031/
Pair of light taupe and black leather platform sling-back pumps. Uppers of light taupe leather with black leather toe cap and black-leather platform. Sling-back strap has leather-covered elastic section at center back. 3 1/4" modified continental heel covered in black leather.
Stamped in each shoe: "Yves Saint Laurent".
Stamped on sole: "Leather / Leder / Cuir / Guoid" in hide border; "Made in Italy"; "M"; "7". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39037/
Pair of tan linen platform pumps. Heavy-weight tan linen uppers with rounded throat. 3 3/8" modified continental heel, the heel and platform covered in taupe leather. Sole of black leather. Inner lining of gold metallic leather on all but inner heels, those lined with off-white leather.
Stamped in each shoe: "Yves Saint Laurent".
Stamped on sole: "Leather / Leder / Cuir / Guoid" in hide border; "Made in Italy"; "M"; "7". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39039/
Pair of ivory leather sandals. The heeled sandals are of ivory pebble textured leather simulating alligator. Open-toe design, with wide strap. Heels are in the form of a cut-out wedge, 2 3/4" high.
Stamped in each shoe: "Uffizi".
Stamped inside strap: "7 M / Leather Upper / Man Made Sole / Made in Brazil / 1130".
Stamped on sole: "Uffizi". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39034/
- Shirt Dress
Shirt dress of brown cotton. Knee-length, with v-neckline and shirt-style collar and lapels. Center front opening with square snaps. Two patch pockets at bust with box pleat at center of each; pockets extend to waist seam; elbow-length sleeves with 2” cuff, and inner shoulder pads; skirt with two patch pockets at each side with pleats as upper pockets; pockets extend to hem. Size 42
With matching belt of brown cotton backed with leather; covered rhombus buckle has one elongated angle; 34 ½” length.
Designer's label: "Thierry Mugler / Activ" "Made in Italy" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286949/
- Shirt Dress
Shirt dress of black rayon, cotton, and acrylic; vest of bodice is of a leather-like open-check fabric with two slanted patch pockets at bust with box pleat at center and lapels; shirt collar with open-square notched lapel and snap placket down center-front with snap covers of black squares; elbow-length sleeves; skirt with two patch pockets at each side with pleats below lapel; knee-length. Size 42
With matching belt of black cotton backed with leather; covered rhombus buckle has one elongated angle; 34 ½” length.
Designer's label: "Thierry Mugler / Activ" "Made in Italy" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286896/
- Skirt Suit
Skirt suit of brown wool.
A) Jacket, Lower-hip length, collarless, and with 3 button-and-loop closures at center-front. Long sleeves with slit and single button closure at wrists. Welt pockets at hips, and princess seams. Inner shoulder pads, and brown polyester lining.
B) Matching short skirt, with 1” waistband. Button tab and side zip closure. Waistband is lined with grosgrain ribbon, and the skirt is lined in brown polyester.
Designer's label: "Giorgio Armani / A Milano Borgonuovo 21" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286841/
- Suit - Jacket and Skirt
Suit of black and white wool tweed consisting of:
Fitted jacket. Hip-length with fringed shawl collar. Single breasted and closes with 1 self-covered button with tailored buttonhole and 3 snaps at center front. Two angled faux flap pockets. Princess seams. Long, modified dolman sleeves with underarm gussets. Center back seam and double princess seams in back. Lined in ivory satin with embroidered "CD" on lower right in front.
Designer's label at center back neckline: "Christian Dior / Boutique / Paris"
Size, content, and care label below designer's label.
Skirt. Knee-length with fringed hem, faced waistline and front and back darts. Center back zipper with hook & eye. Lined in ivory silk. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc501314/
- Sunburst Dress
Black "sunburst" evening dress with bustle. The fitted, full-length sheath is of black silk satin with black velvet "sunburst" motif repeated over the dress. The gown is strapless, with diagonally draped over-panels that meet at center front and form a large bow which tilts up to cover the left shoulder. There is a zipper closure along the left sideseam with hook-and-eye closure at neckline which is concealed by the bust panel, which is snapped to the dress and bow. The back waistline seam has a three-tiered ruffled bustle which has a snap at left side to accommodate the zipper. The skirt flares from knee to hemline. There is a boned black silk inner bodice with bust pads and bust and waist stays. The inner bodice has a zipper closure at left side, just inside the outer zipper.
Designer's label inside garment, stitched over right side bone: "Givenchy / Made In / France".
Photograph is from the exhibition Haute Couture - The Great Paris Designers, held at The Grace Museum, Abilene Texas, October 17 - December 30, 2000, and shows the gown as displayed with a hat by Balenciaga (Accession #: 1981.022.026). digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30250/
Evening coat of brocade and fur. The full-length coat is of a pale yellow silk brocade, with a pattern of flowers and scrolls in reds, purples, blues, white, silver, and gold. It has long sleeves and opens along the center front, with no closures. The cuffs and collar are wide bands of dyed purple fox fur. The coat is lined in a pale tan/yellow silk.
Sewn in below collar at inside center back is designer's label: "Designed / by Mouratidis / Washington DC"
Attached inside right side near hip is original paper label printed on one side "Balenciaga / Paris", and written on the back "Brocade evening mystery / coat w/fox / R".
Donated to the Texas Fashion Collection by Helen Noumas, in memory of her partner Michael Mouratidis, designer of the piece. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30321/
Coat of intricate patchwork of Prince of Wales wool plaid, wool hounds tooth, wool petit point, all-over embroidered with pewter metallic floral vines. Knee length. Simulated double breasted, off-center opening with hidden placket button closure; notched collar. Long sleeves with 6 functioning button closure at wrists. Two flap pockets with welts at each front hip with lapels; pockets not open. Knee-length. Fan pleating at back. Fully lined in gray silk.
Designer's label at center back neckline: "Givenchy / Haute Couture" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc402522/
Dress of violet, pink, blue and grey silk chiffon printed in a rose motif. Full-length, with rounded neckline and full-length sleeves that flare and are split at wrist. Skirt gathered at natural waist. Skirt with middle layer of dark pink chiffon, and inner lining layer of pink nylon(?). Center back opening, bodice with 7 button and loops and 8 covered snaps, and one hook-and-eye at neck. Skirt with 2 covered snaps on outer layer, zipper for attached inner layers, and hook-and-loop just below waistband.
Designer's label at inside back, just below waist: "[Japanese characters] / Hanae Mori"
Retailer's label at inside back, below waist: "Neiman-Marcus"
Size label attached to designer's label: "12"
With a chiffon scarf, of fabric matching outer layer of dress. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc501372/