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UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Texas Fashion Collection
- Skirt Suit
Skirt suit of rose, blue and gold brocade. The ensemble consists of a jacket, skirt, and belt, all of the same "peacock eye" design brocade, of blue and gold on a rose pink ground.
The hip-length jacket is a tailored shell with round neck and set-in full-length sleeves. It has a full-length center front opening which secures with a series of five snaps covered in rose-colored chiffon. The neckline, opening, cuffs, and hem are trimmed with a two lines of dark rose silk cord embellished with spiraled lines of red, gold, and blue bugle beads. The lines are 6cm. apart. The jacket is fully lined in rose colored silk, and has built-in shoulder pads.
Sewn inside jacket at back collar is designer's label: "Givenchy", with a second label sewn underneath, which has a handwritten notation: "79461".
The matching fitted skirt is above-the-knee length, with a 3.5 cm. wide waistband into which the skirt gathers. Zipper closure at left side, with two large hook-and-eyes in waistband. The brocade is lined in white chiffon, and there is an inner lining/half-slip of dark rose colored silk. There are no labels in the skirt.
The belt is leather-backed, and faced with the same brocade. The rectangular pink and green rhinestone set buckle is non-functional, with a pair of hooks behind to catch in the metal-rimmed belt holes. There are no labels/marks on the belt. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc283711/
- Skirt Suit
Chanel-style woman's two piece suit with blouse.
a)Jacket of novelty knit slub in pink and blue ombre tone. Silk blend fabric. Styled with high, rounded extended neckline and center front opening with no method of closure. Padded shoulders. Long, fitted sleeves with one button mock slit closure at wrist. Button is goldtone, round, with half button incised lines. Short, straight bodice with two small patch pockets at hip with one button trim. Trimmed at all edges with blue and pink band. Partially lined with peach crepe at center front edge, and plain weave lining fabric at back.
Label: "Eres / Beverly Hills"
b) Skirt of matching color tones of slub yarn in plain weave. Silk blend fabric. Straight cut with fitted waistband. Deep slit at lower front seam. Trimmed at waistband with blue and pink band. Center back zipper closure with two hooks at waistband. Fully lined in peach crepe.
Label at waistband: "Eres / Beverly Hills"
Size tag: "8"
c) Blouse of blue silk with vertical stripes. Standing band collar with double ruffle and tie. Center front opening with seven square, glass buttons and hook & eye at collar. Long fitted sleeves with one button, ruffled band cuff. Straight hemline.
Label at neckline: "Eres / Beverly Hills" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc283766/
- Skirt Suit
Suit of navy blue wool with window pane plaid in white.
a) Jacket of navy blue wool in window pane plaid in white. Double breasted with circular, blue buttons. Notched collar. Long sleeves. Fully lined in navy silk.
Designer's label at back neckline: "Givenchy / Made in France"
(b) Skirt of same fabric. Thigh down is pleated. Upper skirt is lined in navy silk. Left side zipper.
(c) White blouse of heavy silk. Neck has extra fabric to tie a bow or knot. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc283742/
- Skirt Suit
Skirt suit of red wool printed with black and gray floral designs in vertical stripes.
A) Jacket. Quilted jacket with slight shawl collar, long sleeves, center front opening with two large circular red plastic buttons. Collar, opening, hem, and sleeves with black edging. Lined in dark red rayon.
Designer's label: "Hanae Mori / Tokyo, New York"
Retailer's label: "Neiman-Marcus"
Content/Care label: "Out Cloth: 100% Wool / Lining: 100% Rayon / Size 10 / Made in Japan / Dry Cleaning Only"
B) Skirt of matching print fabric. Not quilted, the street-length skirt has a narrow waistband with hook-and-eye at center back and zipper below. Lined in same dark red rayon.
Care/Content label, partly in Japanese, partly in international pictorial symbols. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc330412/
- Skirt Suit
Skirt suit ensemble.
A) Jacket in dark gold wool crepe. Single breasted with two large, circular plastic buttons and bound buttonholes. Notched collar. Long, set in sleeves with single, smaller matching, functioning button with bound buttonhole. Lined in matching, dark gold silk satin. Weighted hem.
Designer's label at center back neckline: "Norman Norell / New York"
Retailer's label on left side seam: "Woolf Brothers"
B) Skirt in dark gold wool crepe. A line with two large patch pockets at sides. Left side zipper closure with two large hook & eyes on waistband. Lined in dark gold silk.
Handwritten style number tag on inside right seam: "5486-607-12"
Union label on inside left seam digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc330365/
- Skirt Suit
Skirt suit of navy blue double knit wool.
a) Jacket of navy blue double knit wool. Shawl collar, full-length sleeves with functioning button on each sleeve. Center front opening which secures with attached 3" belt of self with two matching buttons. Four front patch pockets, each securing with single matching button. All buttons are smooth, circular mother-of-pearl buttons set in gold tone mounts and all buttonholes are bound. Cream silk(?) lining.
Designer's label at inside left: "Norell"
Retailer's label at inside back collar: "Nan Duskin / Philadelphia"
b) Skirt of same material. 3/4 length. A-line which gathers slightly into 2-1/2" wide waistband. Left side zipper with hook-and-loop at waistband. Lined in dark blue nylon(?).
Combined Designer's/Retailer's label sewn to inside of outer layer of skirt, hidden beneath lining layer: "Norman Norell for Nan Duskin"
Maker's label, handwritten cream ribbon, sewn inside lining: "3055 - 711 - 14 - 136" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc461805/
- Sling-Back Platform Pumps
Pair of sling-back platform pumps covered with a dark blue fabric printed with yellow circles and small dark blue or white polka dots. Shoes have thick platform sole and rounded toe. Open-toe style, with slight pleating across the vamp. Sling-back, with strap from sides across back of heel, fastening with small fabric covered buckle. 3 3/4" high chunky heel tapering slightly to base.
Maker's label stamped inside: "Enosis / Made in Greece" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc86956/
- Sling-Back Shoes
Pair of shoes of beige leather. The heeled shoes are designed with slightly pointed closed toe-box, with a large, non-functional curved rectangular textured metal buckle across instep. Sling-back in style, the shoes have a strap of same leather extending from either side of toe-box back, around heel, through short straps at sides, and buckling with small metal buckles at outside ankle. Low, 1 3/4" modified kitten heel.
Designer's label inside: "Herbert Levine"
Retailer's label inside: "Neiman Marcus"
Handwritten inside strap: "7a 2. 4223.9L / 58189" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114936/
Pair of slippers of red silk and gold metallic brocade. The shoes are designed with pointed toes, and a panel of gold leather that extends from below the throat, up and over the instep, and almost to the instep, sewn down, and echoing the point of the toes. Crossed with a gold cord bow with large rhinestones set at each end. Almost flats, the shoes have low, carved heels with a profile similar to a compacted Louis heel.
Brand stamp: "Gustinettes / Trade Mark"
Stamped inside: "6 1/2M 52770" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc87032/
Pair of slippers of light green silk. Designed with slightly pointed toes, and with a small, almost square mother-of-pearl decorative buckle across vamp. Uppers are edged with green satin ribbon. Modified Louis heel, flaring at base.
Stamped inside: "The Balta / [line illegible] / B. Altman & Co. / Paris New York"
Stamped on sole: "The Balta"
Handwritten inside: "a 5307 / 30160" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114835/
Summer dress / Sundress of linen weave cotton in abstract floral design of black, yellow, red, white and green on purple background. Halter-style bodice and dirndl style skirt; midi length with slit up center front to thighs. Center back zipper with 2 hook & eyes. Side slit pockets. Lined in yellow crepe.
Designer's label at center back: "Donald Brooks" with handwritten style number(?) "825"
With kerchief of matching fabric. Triangular shape. Reverse side print is purple flowers on yellow background. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc501342/
Sweater of horizontal stripes of aqua blues cotton knit. V-neck of dark aqua 1" wide ribbed knit. Long sleeves with four bands attached to each other with open weave of dark blue, top band is dark blue, middle band is slightly lighter blue, and final two bands are lightest shade of blue. Torso constructed similar to sleeves, with dark blue panel across top of shoulders, slightly lighter blue across upper chest and back, lightest blue across bust and then from bust line to bottom hem. Bottom hem and cuffs 2.5" ribbed knit. Unlined.
Designer label at center back neck: "Couregges / Paris / Made in France" (with "AC" logo to right)
Extensive care label underneath designer label. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc503801/
- Toque Hat
Toque style hat of aqua narrow straw. Ruffle flower of same in front. Unlined with black grosgrain ribbon headband.
Label on inside headband: "De Lora / New York" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc276976/
- Toque Hat
Toque style hat covered with pheasant feathers. The high, cylindrical, domed crown of brown felt is completely covered with a mosaic of various colored feathers including yellow with black edge, iridescent green, blue, orange, burnt sienna, browns, and iridescent grays. Inner hatband of hot pink grosgrain ribbon. Hatpin with white spherical head.
Sewn to inner ribbon band is designer's label: "Frank Olive / New York" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc305359/
Tunic of gold brocade. Knee-length A-line tunic with open rounded neckline and 3/4-length sleeves. The neckline, cuffs and hem are embellished with applied bands of gold, silver, topaz and rose-colored bugle beads, sequins and rhinestones. Center back zipper closure with four hook-and-eye closures at the neckline. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30254/
Turban of silk shantung in blues and green. The tight, somewhat conical crown is flattened at top, and is composed of horizontally wound and folded silk shantung in a pattern of pale blue stripes and stripes of white with either dark blue or olive green line in a simplified meander pattern. The hat is lined in a fine white net, and has an inner off-white grosgrain ribbon hatband.
Retailer's label inside: "Neiman-Marcus" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc461838/
- Visor Cap
Visor cap of medium brown plastic. The open crown consists of a vertical band which runs around front and sides, with brown and white elastic band across back. Printed at front center of crown is the Neiman-Marcus logo. The wide front visor is printed with three rows of scattered white squares. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc305392/
Coat of curly sheep or goat fur in shades of brown, white, and gray mixed. Standing collar, single breasted closure and pockets all of brown leather. Closure has 5 circular, brown buttons and bound buttonholes. Long set-in sleeves; midi length. Lined in brown satin(?).
Designer's label at right side seam: "Albert Alfus / New York"
Retailer's label at center back neckline: "Neiman-Marcus"
At right side seam is union label: "Int Ladies Garment Workers Union, Union Made ILGWU 66460"
and size tag: "8" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc503758/
- Cocktail Hat
Cocktail or evening hat covered with blue-green-blackish iridescent coque feathers. Hat is based on a pillbox style crown, conical, with flattened top. The entire surface is covered with overlapping feathers. Rising from the center of the crown is a spray of brown horsehair and high standing feathers. Brown felt interior crown with brown grosgrain ribbon inner headband. Two combs at sides for securing hat to wearer's head.
Retailer's label: "Titche's / Dallas" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc305371/
- Day Dress
Day dress of white wool knit. Sleeveless with wide jewel neckline. Calf length; skirt slightly gathered at natural waistline. Left side zipper with hook & eye and four hook & eyes on left shoulder. Two vertical welt pockets at sides. Lined in white silk with weighted pocket linings.
Designer's label at inside left seam of lining: "Norman Norell / New York"
Retailer's label at center back neckline: "Esther Wolf / Houston" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc402493/
- Day Dress
Day dress of white sateen cotton. Sleeveless with square yoked bodice and triangular gussets at underarm. Knee-length. Below bust, down to hem, are horizontal lines of top-stitching every 2". Two square front patch pockets at hips. Skirt flares out from below bust to hem. At center front is a 4" long decorative, white plastic zipper, below is a small white "AC" logo in vinyl. Back zipper closure with hook & eye. Unlined.
Designer's label inside back by zipper: "Courrèges / Paris / made in france,
Style number stamped on designer's label: "0032354".
Fabric/care label attached below designer's label: "Fabrique in France / Made in France / Dry Clean Only / No Bleach Do Not Iron / Nettoyer Par Un Teinturier / Tout Detergent Industriel Interdit / Repassage Deconseille / [symbols for cleaning] / Modele/Style 14 / Coloris/Color Blanc White / Taille/Size B / 100% Cotton Cotton 100% / Garniture/Ornament / 100% Polyvinyl Saran 100%" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc503756/
Dress made of multiple fabrics including velvet, cotton, and silk in red, green, brown, blue, and orange multicolored floral and Indian prints, in a patchwork of vertical strips with metallic thread trim. Applied throughout are decorative metallic ovals. The dress is full length, with a flared skirt, long bell sleeves, and a low square neckline. Unlined. Zipper at center back extending from neckline to just below waist, with a single hook-and-loop at neckline.
Label sewn to inside back to left of zipper: "Sant'Angelo". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc283760/
Maxi paper bridesmaid dress of Reemay spun polyester "paper". The long dress is printed with a pattern of impressionistic flowers in greens, pink, blues and purples on a yellow ground. It has a high, rounded neckline with no collar, and opens with a zipper at center back from collar to just above waist. The long, fitted sleeves have a thin band at cuff which extends to be tied into a bow. Empire waistline, from which extend box pleats. The dress appears to have a full, floor-length skirt, but the skirt is actually divided, forming pant legs.
No designer labels in garment, but original tag is preserved with it:
Obverse: "'Wear-a-while'* / Fashions / with / Reemay [trademark symbol] / Du Pont's Fabulous / New 100% Spun Bonded Polyester / DuPont Reemay brings an entirely new quality to 'conven- / ience fashions'. It has an unusual surface appearance, it / is strong and it is colorfast. Garments of Reemay may be / washed a few times and need no ironing if you use / normal wash-and-wear procedures / DHJ Industries Inc. / [trademark symbol] Registered Du Pont Trademark / * Trademark of / DHJ Industries, Inc."
Reverse: "Du Pont / Reemay [trademark symbol] / 100% Spunbonded polyester / flame-retandant finish / comfortable -- because it 'breathes' / retains its body and shape -- long wearing / dries quickly -- stays smooth - needs no ironing / it's strong - won't fray, unravel, split, tear / swirl pattern construction gives it a unique / appearance / to shorten: just cut with scissors ... garment won't unravel! / Reemay [trademark symbol] / is processed, furnished and dis- / tributed by DHJ Industries Inc. / 16 E. 34th St., N.Y., N.Y."
The Texas Fashion Collection holds two identical examples of this dress, from the same donor. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30330/
Dress of brown/beige coffee-colored wool. The short, A-line dress with shallow boat-neckline, short, cap-sleeves. Front and back of dress with diamond-shaped motif created by slot seams with cream background/under layer. Similar seaming across top of sleeves and joining diamond motifs around sides. Center back zipper with hook-and-eye at neckline. Lined in off-white silk(?).
Designer's label: "Jean Marie Armand / Paris / Made in France"
Retailer's label: "Made in France especially for / Neiman-Marcus" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286912/
- Ensemble - Blouse and Skirt
Ensemble of printed silk of blues, turquoise, pinks, maroon, green on white ground. Stylized plant/scroll/seaweed forms.
A) Blouse - Waist length, with round neckline and short sleeves. Center-front opening with 5 self-covered buttons domed with bound buttonholes and hidden, covered snap just above waist. Lined in cream.
Designer's label at center back: "BH Wragge / 69"
Retailer's label at side seam: "Lou Lattimore / Dallas"
Manufacturing label: "Lot 3 / Size 10"
B) Skirt - Above-knee-length, two gore skirt. Slight seaming from the 1/2" waistband. Side zipper with hook and eye at waistband. Lined in white cotton(?).
No labels in skirt. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc501325/
- Ensemble - Bodystocking, Mini-Skirt and Belt
Ensemble consisting of three pieces. Full-length bodystocking is of heavy ivory wool knit, in a ribbed pattern running vertically throughout body and legs, and horizontally around arms. The garment has a turtle-neck and wide flaring cuffs at legs. Center back zipper opening from top of turtle-neck to mid-back. The black double knit wool micro-mini-skirt has four over-sized belt loops with pointed ends, and center back zipper closure. The ensemble includes a wide black patent-leather belt which secures with concealed snaps.
Bodystocking has two labels. Designer's label inside at back near zipper: "Pierre Cardin / Paris New York"; Material/size label on opposite side: "100% / Wool / L"
The skirt has no labels. The belt is stamped on reverse: "12 1851"
From the Fall 1969/1970 season. Records indicate that the ensemble was originally offered in the Maisonette Room of Neiman-Marcus. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30084/
- Ensemble - Coat and Dress
A) Coat of light brown leather printed with dark brown "squiggles". Full-length, double-breasted, with two vertical rows of three each circular brown plastic buttons and hidden snaps at top. Long raglan sleeves. Two patch pockets on front with decorative flaps. Lined in light brown silk(?).
Designer's label at inside back collar: "Adele Simpson", with written annotation "1008".
B) Dress with matching scarf, of light tan jersey with printed dark brown "squiggles" matching the rest of ensemble. Mid-length, sheath style. Roll collar with slit through which scarf threads. Long sleeves with cuffs having two hidden snaps each. Center back zipper with hook-and-eye at top. Lined in peach silk crepe(?). With wide belt of leather matching the coat, the square buckle covered in same leather.
Designer's label at inside back on left: "Adele Simpson".
Stamped on reverse of belt: "Z 1095" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc501297/
- Ensemble - Coat, Skirt, and Blouse
Ensemble consisting of:
A) Dress coat of camel color wool gabardine. Single breasted with four circular, ivory, plastic buttons with bound buttonholes. Street length. Notched collar. Large pleat down center back. Long set-in sleeves with band cuffs having a single matching button with bound buttonhole. Four patch pockets with flaps - two smaller pockets at breast and two larger pockets at hips. Each pocket is trimmed with a functioning, smaller matching button with bound buttonhole. Lined in tan silk.
Designer's label at center back neckline: "Norell"
Retailer's label below designer's label: "Sakowitz / Houston"
Union label at left armhole.
B) Belt of cream colored leather. 3/4" wide with rectangular buckle covered in same.
Reverse stamped: "14 611"
C) Shell blouse of ivory silk knit. Sleeveless with jewel neckline. Center back zipper with hook & eye. Lined in cream silk satin
D) Skirt of camel color wool gabardine. Slightly A-line; knee length. Left side zipper closure with two large hook & eyes on waistband. Lined in tan silk.
Designer's label on inside left seam of lining: " Norman Norell / New York"
Handwritten style number label: "24787-611-14"
Union label below designer's label. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc330395/
- Ensemble - Jumper and Blouse
Ensemble consisting of:
A) Jumper of brown suede. Knee length. Square neckline. Each shoulder with single snap closure at top. Left side closure of 11 snaps from arm to hem. Lined in brown cotton.
Designer's label at center back: "Adolfo / New York"
B) Blouse of cotton twill in multicolored paisley on taupe background. Turndown collar with pointed ends. Center front opening with 7 white plastic buttons and vertical, barred buttonholes. Long, set-in sleeves with 2-1/2" cuffs having 2 matching buttons and barred buttonholes. Unlined.
Designer's label at center back neckline: " Adolfo / New York" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc501377/
Handbag of woven red, green, yellow, blue, brown, and peach dyed straw twine creating a striped pattern, with tan leather trim and at bottom corners. Leather round double handle; Semicircular zipper closure. Interior lined in yellow canvas.
Manufacturer's stamp on inside at zipper: "Jana / Made in Italy" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc330463/
Hat of ivory leather. Narrow brim curves up in back and down in front. High cylindrical crown. Entire hat has horizontal top stitching with exception of narrow hatband. Lined in pink silk with white grosgrain ribbon inner headband.
Designer's label: "Yves Saint Laurent / Paris Chicago"
Size tag at left of designer's label: "22" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc305349/
- Hostess Ensemble
Hostess ensemble of cotton sateen in lime green floral and paisley print over navy background consisting of:
A) Top with bodice in modified halter style and long, flared bottom. Top extends below hips giving the appearance of a gathered skirt with empire waist. Left side zipper closure with hook & eye and 3 hook & eyes on left shoulder. Trimmed in navy braided tape around all outer edges and at seam of bodice. Lined in white organdy with white grosgrain ribbon petersham at gathered waist.
Designer's label at center back: "Geoffrey Beene".
B) Pants. Full length with flared bottoms. Center front zipper with hook & eye. Hem trimmed in matching navy braid.
Designer's label at center back: "Geoffrey Beene" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc501374/
- Man's Coat
Man's coat of chocolate brown polyurethane. Trench coat style, double-breasted with 7 (1 missing) circular gold-tone buttons with centers of self. Convertible collar with large lapel and smaller, matching button. Epaulets at shoulders. Vertical slotted pockets with 1-1/2" welt. Long vent down center back closes with single, hidden button. Lined in olive green synthetic fiber fabric. Inner zipper for lining, now missing. With matching belt with brown, rectangular buckle. Brand (?) label inside: "Dimension IV" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc461820/
- Patchwork Dress
Dress made of multiple fabrics including velvet, cotton, and silk in red, green, brown, blue, and orange multi-colored floral and Indian prints, in a patchwork of vertical strips with metallic thread trim. Applied throughout are decorative metallic ovals. The dress is full length, with a flared skirt, long bell sleeves, and a low square neckline. Unlined. Zipper at center back extending from neckline to just below waist, with a single hook-and-loop at neckline.
Label sewn to inside back to left of zipper: "Sant'Angelo".
Worn by singer Lena Horne (1917-2010). digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30289/
No Description digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc277019/
- Skirt Suit
Suit of chocolate brown wool.
a) Jacket of chocolate brown wool. Double breasted with six circular dark chocolate brown buttons and bound buttonholes. Closure reinforced with 3 large covered snaps. Princess seaming. Bracelet length sleeves with 2 smaller matching, functioning buttons and bound buttonholes. Collar has squared corners. Side flap pockets. Collar, opening, sleeves and pockets trimmed in black binding. Lined in matching silk with weighted hem.
Designer's label at center back neckline: "Norman Norell / New York"
b) Skirt in matching chocolate brown wool. A-line with 1" waistband. Knee length. Left side zipper hidden inside slit pocket with two large hook & eyes on waistband. Lined in matching silk. Lining of side slit pockets are weighted. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc461811/
Pair of brown suede boots. Almost knee-high, the boots are constructed as slip-on rounded-toe shoes or moccasins with added segments on the quarter to create the length of the boots. At the top, the suede of the boots is folded over outwards forming a pocket for a drawstring around top and a band of suede fringe around the outside of the boot.
Indistinct trademark/logo stamped on sole. Illegible stamped mark inside boots.
Referred to as "Squaw Boots", these were worn by the donor who acquired them in 1968 from the Fishing Bridge Store, in Yellowstone National Park. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30322/
Coat of red wool knit. Double-breasted with 10 self covered circular buttons and 5 bound buttonholes. Full length. Bracelet-length set-in sleeves with white satin, notched cuffs. Notched collar with white satin covered lapels. Vertical welt pockets at sides. Lined in matching white silk. Designer's label at center back neckline: "Norman Norell / New York" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc461797/
Coat of pale yellow whipcord wool. Jewel neckline with 1-3/4" mandarin collar. Long, set-in sleeves. Single breasted with two large 1-1/2" smooth, circular black buttons above and 2 buttons below waistline. 3-1/2" wide matching, attached belt with matching black button. Bound buttonholes on coat and belt. Seven inch wide black dyed fox fur trimmed hemline. Vertical, single-welt pockets at each side. Lined in white silk satin.
Designer's label at inside back collar: "Norman Norell / New York" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc330367/
Coat of oatmeal heather wool. Double breasted with 14 circular, beige plastic buttons, 7 functioning with bound buttonholes reinforced with inside large covered snap. Two vertical welt pockets. Long set-in sleeves with three smaller matching, functioning buttons and bound buttonholes. Lined in light beige silk crepe.
Designer's label at center back neckline: "Norell"
Retailer's label below designer's label: "Lou Lattimore /' Dallas" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc330452/
Coat of tiger fur with sable (fox?) fur trim. Mid-length. Long sleeves with 4" sable cuffs. Shawl collar of sable extends down center front opening to 10" border around hemline. Fully lined in brown silk; embroidered initials "DMM" at right side opening. Lining has 11" pleated brown silk "skirt" with brown velvet seam.
Retailer's label at center back neckline: "Bergdorf / Goodman / On the Plaza / New York"
Retailer's label beneath main retailer's label (part handwritten): "Bergdorf / Goodman / On the Plaza * New York / M. M.G. Mann / Date 12/68 No. 1851" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc503790/
- Coat Dress
Daytime coat dress.
a) Coat dress of red/orange gaberdine wool. Single breasted with 7 mother-of-pearl buttons in circular gold-tone mounts with bound buttonholes. Above knee length. Jewel neckline. Neckline and right side of opening are of navy gaberdine wool. Long, set in sleeves having cuffs of navy gaberdine wool with two smaller matching buttons and bound buttonholes. Two large patch pockets at left and right are also trimmed with matching navy bands across tops of pockets. Lined in red silk crepe.
Designer's label at center back neckline: "Norell"
Retailer's label at inside left seam: "Rich's / Specialty Shop"
b) Webbed belt of matching navy gaberdine wool. Three inches wide with rectangular self covered buckle. Reverse of buckle frame stamped "Astor". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc330420/
- Coat (Part of Ensemble)
Coat of black wool. Mid-length coat with cape collar, and double-breasted front closure with two rows of 5 circular black plastic buttons. Exaggerated cuffs and front pockets. Lined in black cloth.
Designer's label sewn in collar at center back: "Norell"
Retailer's label sewn inside at right side: "Sakowitz / Houston"
Part of an ensemble which includes a dress of black wool and a belt, photographed separately. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc283685/
- Cocktail Dress
Cocktail dress of heavy blue/green aqua silk. Knee-length, with high standing collar and long sleeves which gather into zippered cuffs. Collar, sleeves, and hem with wide bands of mirrored rhinestone beads/sequins. Attached sash/belt at waist. Center-back zipper, with hook-and-eye at collar. Lined in lighter material of the same color.
Designer's label sewn inside skirt: "Norman Norell / New York"
Designer's model label (?) sewn inside skirt: "18101-180-12"
Union label sewn inside skirt. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc461848/
- Cocktail Dress
Cocktail dress of gray silk jacquard with floral pattern of white daisies. Below knee length. Full skirt with two gores at front and two box pleats at center back. Cap sleeves. V-shaped neckline. Center back is V-shaped with zipper and hook & eye. Princess seaming. Pleat at shoulder joins bust darts and forms L-shape at natural waist and becomes tie at center front waist. Lined in light gray synthetic net with petersham of white grosgrain ribbon and hook & eye.
Designer's label on center back seam near hem: "Adele Simpson"
Retailer's label above designer's label: "Neiman-Marcus" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc501361/
- Day Coat
a) Day coat of silk and cotton blend in tan, green, purple, and pink stripes. Double breasted with 5 bound buttonholes. Open-ended collar and long sleeves with cuffs having 2 bound buttonholes. Patch pockets at sides. Lined in ivory silk.
Combined designer/retailer label at center back neckline: "Norman Norell for Bonwit Teller"
b) Belt of matching fabric with self-covered rectangular buckle. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc461801/
- Day Dress
A) Day dress of mustard yellow heavy knit. Three-seamed raglan short-sleeves. Knee length. Modified mandarin neckline. Center back zipper with hook & eye. Patch pockets at sides. Lined in matching mustard yellow silk satin.
Combined designer/retailer label on inside left seam under lining: "Norman Norell for Bonwit Teller"
B) Belt of self with 6 rows of quilted top stitching. 1-1/4 inches wide. Rectangular slide buckle covered in self. Attached at back of dress. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc330498/
Dress of turquoise colored sateen cotton. Sleeveless with square yoked bodice. Lines of horizontal top stitching over body of dress. Two front patch pockets. Center front decorative short, white, plastic zipper. Back zipper closure with hook & eye. Knee length, but hem has been removed.
Designer's label at inside back zipper: "Courrèges / Paris / made in france"
Style number stamped on designer's label:"0078019"
Care instruction/fabric content tag attached to bottom of designer's label. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc283747/
Dress of white linen (cotton?), the fabric with alternating square of double weave, plain squares and a "waffle weave". Knee length; A-line silhouette. Triangular inserts at side seams gradually widening toward hemline. In-seam pocket at side seams. Jewel neckline. Shaped armhole with cap sleeves. Center back lapped zipper. Fully lined in white silk.
Designer label: "Rudy Gernreich"
Retailer label: "Neiman-Marcus / Trophy Room" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc503813/
- Ensemble - Coat and Skirt
Ensemble. Coat and matching skirt (not shown) of woven upholstery-weight fabric with stylized floral and geometric designs in burgundy and blue/black on a creme ground. Coat is mid-length, flaring slightly to hem, with long sleeves and a center-front opening. The opening, hem, and cuffs are all trimmed in a curly "lamb's wool" died burgundy to match the pattern. Fully lined in burgundy silk(?) With separate sash/belt. Labels in coat: Designer's label "Anne Klein" with lion logo; Dallas, Texas retailer's label "Marie Leavell".
Not shown is skirt in matching fabric, mid-length, with no trim. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30196/