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UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Texas Fashion Collection
Dress of multi-colored velvets. The floor-length dress has an empire waist and bell-shaped long sleeves. The upper, bodice, section is made of a sheer, multi-colored fabric woven with bands of gold thread. Over the bodice is applied sections of burnout velvet in various colors, forming bands running up the bodice, over the shoulders, and down the back, another band forming a 1" high collar, and as 2" bands around each wrist. The sections are bordered in gold cording. The lower, skirt, section is of green velvet printed in browns, greens, and gold in an abstract geometric/organic design. Fully lined in green silk(?). Center back zipper from neckline to just above waist. Three hook-and-loop closures on collar.
Designer label sewn alongside zipper at shoulder-blade height at right: "Ronald Amey / New York". Evidence of removed label at inside, center front of dress below neckline. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30306/
- Ensemble - Coat and Dress
Ensemble of printed silk. The full-length dress is of silk with a printed design of abstract flower forms in red, blue, purple, white, yellow and green on a black ground. It has a rounded neckline and long sleeves which have fabric covered snaps at the wrists. The bodice is seamed and fitted, and the skirt is slightly A-line, flaring to hem. Center back closure, top third is hook-and-eyes, the lower two-thirds is a zipper. The dress is fully lined in black silk. Designer's label sewn inside bodice near waist: "Givenchy". Underneath label is a second label with handwritten notation "48245". The matching coat is of the same print on a heavier weight silk. It is full-length, with a standing collar which has internal wiring for support. The sleeves are full-length, and it has a center front opening which secures with a single fabric-covered snap just below collar. The coat is unlined. Designer's label sewn inside coat at right near waist: "Givenchy". Underneath label is a second label with handwritten notation "48246"
This ensemble was made for the donor to wear to the wedding of Maria del Carmen Martinez-Bordiu y Franco, (1951- ) granddaughter of General Franco, to Don Alfonso, Duke of Anjou and Cádiz (1936 - 1989), son of Infante Jaime of Spain, Duke of Segovia and grandson of King Alfonso XIII of Spain. The wedding took place in the chapel of El Pardo Palace, Madrid, on 8th March 1972.
The donor noted: "It was designed by Monsieur Givenchy especially for me. Balenciaga was alive, though he had closed his house, and Givenchy consulted with him on this outfit. You can see Balenciaga's line to it. ... Givenchy had the two distinct fabrics printed in the same design -- one for dress and one for coat. He said it must look like the light shining through the stained glass windows of the Chapel."
The ensemble has a matching pair of shoes by Roger Viver made of fabric in the same print. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30152/
- Ensemble - Coat, Blouse, and Skirt
A) Coat of brown and white felted wool. Knee-length or longer, long set-in sleeves. Center front opening with 5 large circular brown plastic buttons with bound buttonholes. Main body of coat of pale brown and white check design, with cuffs, collar, and lower band of coat (about hips to hem) of light brown. Light brown and white check self tie belt. Side slit pockets. Lined in pale taupe.
Designer's label at center back neckline: "Norell"
Hand-written label just above designer's label: "Deborah 929"
B) Blouse of cream wool jersey. Long sleeves, high standing collar. Center back zipper closure running almost entire length of garment, from top of collar to about 3" above hem. Hook & eye at top of collar. Collar lined in satin, the rest of the blouse is unlined. Not hemmed.
Hand-written label sewn in at neckline: "Deborah 929"
C) Skirt of brown wool tweed. Mid-length; slight A-line. Narrow, 1-1/2" waistband. Fully lined in brown silk(?). Center back zipper closure with large hook & eye on waistband.
Hand-written label "Deborah 1929".
D) Belt of brown leather with wide square, self-covered buckle. Two inches wide. Belt is attached to skirt with inner bands of leather to which loops from the skirt are sewn.
Stamped on reverse: "26 Norman Norell 3736". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc330450/
- Ensemble - Vest, Blouse and Skirts
Ensemble in blue and gold polyester consisting of mix and match component vest, blouses, skirts and belt.
First image shows:
a) Vest: A fitted, hip-length shell of blue and gold check polyester woven in a pattern of yellow/gold squares on a blue ground with thin white threading. It has a deep rounded neckline and nipped waist. The center front opening is secured with three chiffon covered snaps and has two bound button holes and two gold-tone metal buttons. The center front opening and the hem are faced with navy blue polyester embellished with three double rows of gold metallic running stitches. The vest is fully lined in blue silk. Designer's label is located inside center back, below the neckline: "Ronald Amey"; Retailer's label sewn in just above designer's: "Marie Leavell".
b) Blouse: A fitted, hip-length shell of gold polyester with high rounded neckline, standing band collar and full-length set-in sleeves. The sleeves are accented with contrasting, circular ruffle cuffs of blue and gold check polyester, woven so that one side looks yellow/gold squares on a blue ground with thin white threading, and the other side of the ruffles looks like blue squares with thin white threading on a yellow/gold ground. The cuffs have a short placket opening secured with a loop and gold-tone metal button. The center front neckline is accented with a four-tiered ruffled jabot of blue and gold check polyester. The center back zipper closure extends from neck to hip, and is supplemented at the collar with two hook-and-eyes. The collar is faced with gold satin. Designer's label located inside at right side seam, at waist-level: "Ronald Amey / New York".
c) Skirt: A flared, knee-length circular skirt in blue and gold check polyester, woven with blue squares with thin white threading on a yellow/gold ground. The wide waistband has a center back lapped opening secured with two loops and blue fabric covered buttons and a hidden snap. There is also a center back zipper closure extending from waist to hip level. It has side seam slit pockets which are lined in blue silk. The skirt is also fully lined in blue silk. Designer's label located inside right center back, beside the zipper: "Ronald Amey / New York".
The second image shows:
a) Vest, described above.
b) Skirt: A full-length semi-circular skirt in blue and gold check polyester woven to appear as yellow/gold squares on a ground of blue with thin white threading. The wide waistband has a lapped center back opening secured with two loops and clear plastic buttons. There is also a center back zipper closure extending from waist to hip level. The skirt has deep, side seam inverted pleat details. Side seam slit pockets are lined in blue silk. It has a turned, bound hem, and is fully lined in blue silk. Designer's label is located inside right center back beside the zipper: "Ronald Amey / New York".
Not in photo are two other parts to the ensemble, a second blouse and a belt/cummerbund. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30187/
Hat of brown felt. Designed somewhat like a cloche, the domed crown is encircled at the base by a folded-over band of brown grosgrain ribbon tied at side, with a "pouf" of white, green, black and taupe feather. Fairly narrow brim, which is folded over and sewn down at edge, is turned up at front and left, down at right and back. The hat is unlined, with a dark brown grosgrain ribbon inner hatband.
Designer's label: "Don Kline" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc87073/
- Pants Ensemble
A) Jacket in box style of gray and cream plaid mohair. Short jacket with long, set-in sleeves and shawl collar. Two patch pockets at breasts. Center front opening with four large circular gray pearl plastic buttons and bound buttonholes. Fully lined with gray polyester(?).
Designer's label inside below back collar: "Normal Norell / New York"
Model number tags, handwritten on ribbon, 2 of them, stitched above and below designer's label: "Deborah / 818"
Another sample tag sewn to outside of coat under left arm: "#53 / Debrah"
B) Blouse of cream jersey knit. Long sleeves and high, mock turtleneck. Zipper closure at back, almost full length, with hook-and-eye closure at top. Neck lined in cream silk. Hemline is unfinished.
Sewn inside at collar is hand-written style tag: "Deborah / 818"
Sewn to outside of front, at hem, are style tag, handwritten on ribbon: "Deborah", with small sample of gray knit sewn just below.
C) Pants in harlow style of heather gray wool knit. Full-length; wide legs. Wide,2-2/2" waistband; two slit pockets at side seams. Center back zipper with hook & eye at top of waistband. Lined in gray silk; only attached by single threads at legs.
Sewn inside waistband is cloth tape with hand-written style tag: "Deborah / 818", and attached just above tag is a small sample of the fabric of the blouse. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc498995/
Pair of pumps of aqua blue and white printed peau de soie silk. Shoe is designed with a gently pointed toe, and thick heel that tapers to base. Shoe upper is of white silk printed with pale blue abstract pattern.
Designer's label stamped inside: "Roger Viver / Paris"
Stamped inside: "sur mesure"
Handwritten inside: "4170" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114940/
- Wedding Dress
Wedding dress of purple calico. Full length, with slight ruffled standing collar, long sleeves with elastic cuffs, tucked bodice, gathered skirt with ruffle at waistline. Inside hem with thin band of purple lace. Center back zipper closure with hook-and-eye at top. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30315/
- Day Dress
Day dress of red and purple printed wool knit. Knee-length or slightly below, the dress has a fairly deep rounded neckline and long set-in sleeves. Skirt is gathered at slightly dropped waist. Dress has a center back zipper, and is unlined.
The dress is made of of areas of print. The bodice and upper part of the skirt has a geometric print of purple diamond/parallelagram shapes on red ground. The sleeves and lower part of the skirt have a print of large purple squares on red ground, forming a checkerboard pattern.
Center back lapped zipper. Unlined.
Designer label: "Rudi Gernreich design for / 10 Harmon Knitwear"
Care label: "Dry Clean / Only / 100% wool" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc501304/
a) Jacket of beige bias cut wool gaberdine. Double breasted with 6 basket weave covered fabric buttons and bound buttonholes; two interior black plastic buttons and bound buttonholes. Waist length, straight sides. Notched collar. Bracelet length sleeves with two functioning, matching buttons and bound buttonholes. Flap pockets at sides. Collar, front opening, sleeve hems and pocket flaps trimmed in black. Lined in black silk.
Designer's label at center back neckline: "Norman Norell / New York"
Retailer's label at left front opening: "Rich's / Specialty Shop"
b) Blouse of printed silk twill in orange and yellow squares. Center front opening with 7 gold plastic circular buttons and barred buttonholes. Long sleeves with cuffs having a single matching button. Ends of collar extend to form tie. Unlined.Ensemble.
a) Norell: Jacket of beige bias cut wool gaberdine. Double breasted with 6 basket weave covered fabric buttons and bound buttonholes; two interior black plastic buttons and bound buttonholes. Waist length, straight sides. Notched collar. Bracelet length sleeves with two functioning, matching buttons and bound buttonholes. Flap pockets at sides. Collar, front opening, sleeve hems and pocket flaps trimmed in black. Lined in black silk.
Designer's label at center back neckline: "Norman Norell / New York"
Retailer's label at left front opening: "Rich's / Specialty Shop"
b) Norell: Blouse of printed silk twill in orange and yellow squares. Center front opening with 7 gold plastic circular buttons and barred buttonholes. Long sleeves with cuffs having a single matching button. Ends of collar extend to form tie. Unlined.
c) Rech: Skirt of black wool. Narrow waistband with center back button and zipper below. Skirt gathers slightly into waistband. Pockets at sides. Fully lined.
Designer's label: "Synonyme / de georges rech paris"; "Made in France"
Fabric: "100% Woc / Laine, Wool, Wolle, Lana, / wol. / [care pictograms]"
2nd fabric/care tag sewn to first, primarily in French. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc499015/
Pair of cream pumps. Designed with rounded toe, the shoes are of a cream mesh with embroidered with floral motifs, giving a lace effect. The high heel is covered in cream satin, and tapers to base.
Stamped inside: "Arsho for / Shoe Biz"
Stamped on soles: "Leather / Leder / Cuir / Made in Spain" and "7 1/2 B" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114763/
- American Flag Shoes
"American Flag Shoes". The pair of shoes is of white leather and red and blue suede. Styled in a way reminiscent of bowling shoes, the white leather shoes have rounded toes, and red suede overlays at toe box, upwards in a strip from toebox to vamp, and around lower part of heel. Blue suede overlay stripes at side have star-shaped cut-outs to allow white leather to show through. Blue suede edging at top of upper and top of heel. Shoes lace-up at front, 5 holes per side. White shoe laces. Shoes are "flats", with 3/4" high heels.
Brand stamped on inside: "Flings"
Illegible stamp inside. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc86959/
Ballgown of pink chiffon. Fitted, boned empire bodice with V-shaped neckline and double spaghetti straps. The bodice is constructed of diagonally pleated pink silk chiffon that crisscrosses over the bust. Center back zipper closure from neck to hip line with a single hook & eye at the neckline supplemented with a hook & loop mid-back and one at the waist seam. Empire waist with full, gathered, circular, ankle-length over skirt of pink crepe chiffon. Semi-fitted underskirt of pink chiffon over pink silk crepe. Wide, boned, white silk/nylon petersham secured down center back with four hook & eyes.
Retailer's label at knee-level of underskirt's center back seam: "Neiman-Marcus" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc501327/
- Belly Dancer's Costume - Banjara Peoples of India
Bustier of a belly dancer's costume from the Banjara peoples of India. The bra-top of black cotton is embellished at front with silver coins and trimmed in multicolored cross stitch embroidery, mirror work, and Kangura patchwork appliqué. Plain black straps extend over shoulders and around back to tie. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc277154/
Belt of gold-colored metal. Heavy double-link chain with 7 "GG" openwork plaques and a single "G" spring clasp.
Marks:"Gucci / Italy" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc701456/
Beret style hat of crocheted black cording with golden flakes. Unlined. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286808/
Beret of dark brown velvet. The soft, full crown is constructed of several pieces, all gathered into brown satin hatband. Hat is lined in cream silk(?) and has inner brown grosgrain ribbon hatband.
Retailer's label sewn to inner hatband: "Volk / Dallas".
Label of United Hatters, Cap, and Millinery Workers International Union sewn into lining. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39234/
Beret style hat of medium red simulated(?) reptile skin. Pieced crown of eight triangular panels and one half-round panel. Matching covered shank button at center of crown. Stiffened brim with twenty-four rows of horizontal burgundy topstitching. Burgundy grosgrain ribbon headband. Fully lined in gold metallic organza over white organza.
Retailer's label stitched at center of crown lining: "Neiman-Marcus / Made to Order". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc283738/
- Bergère Hat
Black silk organza bergère-style hat. The hat has a floppy double-layer brim, the under brim of slightly stiffer black silk organza, overlaid with upper brim of same material. The low, circular crown is encircled at the base by a folded black ribbon, which ties at back and has trailing ends. Inside base of crown is band of black grosgrain ribbon.
Sewn into ribbon is designer label: "Galanos". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc402479/
Pair of lady's boots or "High Button Shoes" of bright tan leather. The shoes, designed with pointed toes, are of tan leather which close along center front with laces, 19 holes high. Medium/high heels styled as a modified boulevard or Louis heel, with rounded sides and back, flaring to base, and with curved front section. Heels covered with matching leather. Sole of tan leather.
Stamped on lining: "I52 5505 K"
Stamped on sole: "Hanan & Son / New York" around circular device "Trade Mark / Hanan". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc277112/
Pair of black suede boots. Ankle-height boots of black suede, with pointed toes and decorative stitch accent at opening. Black suede tassel on heel from opening. 2 1/4" high "stacked" spike heel of black leather(?). Upper is lined in black leather, inner sole lined with red leather. Sole of dark brown leather.
Stamped in each shoe: "Anne Klein / New York".
Stamped on sole: "Anne / Klein / Made in Italy / 7 1/2 / M" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39040/
- Bowling Shoes
Shoes of red, white, and blue leather. The shoes are designed as flats, with rounded toes. Toebox and tongue of red leather, the sides are of blue leather, and the heel and uppers are edged in wide bands of white. The shoes lace up the instep, with five holes. Believed to be bowling shoes. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc87021/
- Breton Hat
Hat in breton style of burnt ochre straw with burnt ochre grosgrain ribbon bow at back on brim. Style can also be referred to as pamela, halo or madeline. Wide upward brim with alternating narrow bands of flat straw. Unlined with ochre grosgrain headband.
Designer's label on inside headband: " An Original / by Dajon / New York"
Size tag to left of designer's label: "22 1/2"
Union label: "565660" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc276973/
- Breton Hat
Hat in breton style of gray straw with gray grosgrain ribbon bow edged with gray straw at back of high, upturned brim. Style can also be referred to as pamela, halo or madeline. Unlined with gray grosgrain headband.
Designer's label on inside hatband: "Valerie / Modes" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc276978/
- Calotte Hat
Calotte style hat of black wool felt hat with swag overlay. Black passementerie trim and spotted black veiling. Fully lined in black silk. Black grosgrain ribbon headband.
Label stitched center back headband: "Francioni / Chapeaux / Zurich" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc283684/
Cap of ocher/dark yellow wool. Designed somewhat as a "watch cap", the hat has a high domed crown, which folds up at bottom to extends back upwards almost the entire height of the crown. Spaced top-stitching along upper edge. Unlined.
Designer's label inside: "Adolfo II / New York Paris" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286911/
Cape made from an antique Japanese obi brocade of red, gold, orange, browns, etc. on a cream ground. Embroidery is of cranes, mums, and other flowers. The cape is mid-length, with one button and loop at neck and with "tie" of same material as an extension of standing collar. Center front opening. Box pleats at sides. Sleeveless, with flap-covered slits at center front sides for arms. Lined in ecru silk with inside slit pocket at left.
Label: "Kobayashi / Made in Tokyo Japan" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc501373/
- Cartwheel Hat
Cartwheel hat of natural Milan straw. The low, cylindrical crown is flattened at top, and is encircled by a wide band of deep golden orange velvet with large bow at back. The wide, flat brim has stiffening at outer edge. The hat is unlined, with an inner straw-yellow grosgrain ribbon hatband. Designer's label inside: "Sally Victor / 18 East 53rd St." digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc402523/
Cloche of brown/rust/beige crochet. The cloche is of openwork crochet, with a high, domed crown, having a wide band at lower edge that is solid crochet. Unlined. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286865/
Cloche hat of brown straw. The cylindrical crown is of Milan straw braid in a medium brown. The top of the crown is domed at center with a deep trough around inside of upper edge. The front of the crown is embellished with a hand-painted butterfly. Around the base of the crown is a wide band formed of inter-woven thin grosgrain ribbons in yellows, pinks, reds, blues, etc., around which is tied a loosely woven band of golden threads. Inner sides of crown are lined in a pink/coral/rose satin, with oval black satin panel sewn into inside top of crown lining.
Embroidered inside crown lining with golden yellow thread is unidentified monogram (A & I G?), and what may be brand name: "Pliz Hats / Distinctive Models / Chicago - New York". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39118/
Sleeveless coat of navy on white zebra printed wool. The street-length coat is of slight A-line, widening to hem. It has wide straps, no collar, and center front opening with 5 circular dark blue plastic buttons. At each hip is a patch pocket with simulated flap, the fabric of the pockets chosen to match the placement on the print. The coat is fully lined in navy fabric. Inside neckline at back is designer's label "Givenchy", folded so that "Made In / France" is not visible.
This coat is part of an ensemble that includes a blue wool jersey knit top and slacks. Donor noted that it was "Made for Monte Carlo for day wear". There is also a hat that was worn with the ensemble (1978.013.062) digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30151/
Coat of brown camel's hair. Street length with wide, flat collar and lapels. Two patch pockets with flaps on front. Double breasted with four buttons (two and two) closure and attached matching belt. Belt is in three segments, with non-functional buttons "attaching" the segments at back. Lined in brown silk.
Designer's label at center back neckline: "Automne-Hiver 1970 / Christian Dior / Paris"
Stamped on label: "152510" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc499037/
Coat of sheared lambswool in several shades of gray. Round collar, notched lapels. Double breasted closure with 6 large gray plastic buttons. Flap pockets at hips. Long sleeves; midi length. Fully lined in grey.
Retailer's label at center back neckline: "Neiman-Marcus"
Embroidered name inside lining at right opening: "Cleo" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc503769/
- Coat Dress
Coat dress of brocade printed with yellow, orange, and purple flowers having pink centers on a navy blue/black/dark purple ground with metallic thread throughout. Mandarin collar, short set-in sleeves. Buttons all the way down center front with self covered buttons and loops. Full length pleated skirt with shaped hemline. Lined in black poly, and the fabric is lined in black interfacing.
Designer's label at center back: "Chester Weinberg".
Retailer's label inside near back bottom hemline: "Neiman-Marcus" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc499000/
- Cocktail Dress
Cocktail dress of black silk gazar. The halter-style neckline of the dress ends in straps at center back of the fitted, dropped-waist bodice. The skirt is a semi-full, gathered, mid-thigh length. There is a boned inner bodice of black silk tulle with bust pads, grosgrain bust and waist stays fastening with hooks-and-eyes, an elaborate closure involving halter drape and inner and outer zippers down the left sideseam and five snaps that secure the halter panel and disguise the zipper. Fully lined in black chiffon.
Label stitched on right side of inner bodice "Givenchy" and "Made In France". Underneath Givenchy label is sewn-in tape with hand-written note: "80 945" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30253/
- Cocktail Hat
Cocktail hat of black velvet. The hat has a high, cylindrical crown with flattened top, and a wide brim which curves downwards. Around the base of the crown is tied a wide piece of black net veiling, with bow at back. The veiling "pools" on the sides and front of the brim, and then extends down to cover wearer's face. The brim is lined with the same velvet, while the crown is lined in black satin, with an inner black grosgrain ribbon hatband. Designer's label inside: "Givenchy / Paris"; "Made in / France" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc330445/
- Cocktail Suit
Cocktail suit of tomato red velvet with mink trimmed collar and cuffs.
A) Jacket of red velvet. Elbow length sleeves trimmed with mink at cuffs. Standing collar with mink trim. Center front opening. Two large patch pockets at side seams. Lined in red silk crepe.
Combined designer/retailer label at center back neckline: "Bonwit Teller New York / Traina-Norell"
B) Skirt of red velvet. Street length, straight with two patch pockets at sides. 1" waistband with center back closure of four self covered buttons and bound buttonholes. Unlined.
C) Blouse of brown satin. Notched collar with exaggerated point. Center front opening with one self covered button imitating a cufflink at bust line and snap near hem. Long sleeves with French cuffs and slit. Bound buttonholes with buttons or cufflinks missing. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc330391/
- Davy Crockett Cap
Davy Crockett Cap (aka coonskin hat) of fur. The hat has a circular crown of vari-colored brown and cream fur, possibly rabbit, flat on top, with a black fur tail hanging off of the back edge. Lined in heavy brown fabric. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114740/
- Day Dress
Day dress of yellow linen. Sleeveless with V neck. Knee length. Princess seaming on front panel with sides and back skirt pleated. Center back zipper with hook & eye. Unlined.
Designer's label at left of zipper: "Teal Traina / New York"
Retailer's label at right of zipper: "Silver Key / Neiman-Marcus" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc499056/
- Day Dress
Day dress of orange silk gaberdine with floral pattern of various sized white flowers having fuchsia centers. Short dolman sleeves. High round neckline. Center back zipper with hook & eye. Lined in white silk.
Designer's label at center back to right of zipper: "Teal Traina / New York" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc499064/
- Day Dress
Day dress of navy blue Alaskine silk. Jewel neckline; knee length. Bracelet length set-in sleeves with four self-covered buttons at hem. Empire waistline accented with 3-1/2" attached belt of self and large bow of self to left of center. Side slit pockets. Center back zipper with hook & eye. Lined in black organdy. Hem appears to be unfinished.
Designer's label at center back neckline: "Chester Weinberg"
Size tag with union label: lot 4 size 8
ILGWU label at base of zipper digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc499014/
- Day Dress
Day dress of white cotton drill consisting of:
A) Jacket. Two vertical welt mock pockets at upper sides. Long, full set-in sleeves, gathered at shoulders with 2-1/2" cuffs and small white plastic button with tailored buttonhole. Wrap shawl collar with 2" ruffle two hook & eyes as closure. Short peplum. Unlined. With belt of self. 1" x 38" with D-ring closure.
Designer's label at center back neckline: "Kenzo / Paris"
Size tag "M" and fiber content/cleaning instructions tag attached to bottom of designer's label.
B) Skirt in wrap around style. Knee length. Continental pockets at sides. Closure of 2 buttons (one missing) and hook & eye. Unlined.
Designer's label at center back: "Kenzo / Paris"
Size "42" tag and fiber content/cleaning instructions tag attached to bottom of designer's label. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc501362/
- Day Dress
Day dress of green corduroy with blue, red and black trim. Drop waist style with 3 tier gathered skirt; below knee length. Center front placket opening with 3 small green buttons and loops. Long gathered sleeves with 2-1/4" cuffs with matching button and barred buttonhole. Gathered ruff collar. Unlined.
Designer's label at center back neckline: "Kenzo / Paris"
Size and fiber/cleaning instruction tags below designer's label. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc501338/
- Daytime Dress
a) Daytime shift style dress of light blue linen. Sleeveless; below knee length. Rounded neckline with horizontal seamed yoke. Large patch pockets at sides below waist. Center back opening with four 1" self covered buttons and bound buttonholes; closure reinforced with large covered snaps. Lined in light blue silk.
Union label on inside seam of lining
Evidence of designer's label at right inside seam of lining; now missing.
b) Sole wrap of matching light blue linen. Rectangular shape. 13-1/4" wide.
c) Tie belt of matching light blue linen. Rectangular, open ends. 1" x 73" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc498998/
A) Dress of bright multicolor patterned translucent chiffon. The full-length dress has a straight, sheath shape, with a jewel neckline and long handkerchief-style sleeves which extend past hem and open at forearm. The sheath is two layers of fabric with the pattern skillfully aligned, while the sleeves are one. Centered zipper at center back, slip-stitched in, extending from neckline to just below waist, with a single hook-and-eye closure at neckline. Both layers are folded up into a 4" hem and blind hemmed in. Side seams are french-seamed, the arm scythe is a 1/4" hand-rolled seam, with the joining seam not at underarm, but the side back. Sleeve edges have a 1/8" narrow rolled hem. The CB seam was sewn with the wrong sides together, then the seam was turned right side out, encasing the raw edges, then the new edges were sewn at a 3/4" SA coming to a point right before the vent and the second layer acts as a facing. The printed pattern of the material includes concentric shapes with geometric and floral influences.
Designer label sewn inside back to left of zipper: "Pierre Cardin / Paris New York"
B) Black thin satin ribbon belt with a snap and hook under permanent bow. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc283727/
Evening dress of bright green hammered silk. The tunic-style dress is full-length, tapering to lower hem in a V-line and with a slit up the side. Rounded collar/neckline and long, bat-wing style sleeves. Inner attached shoulder pads.
Hand-written note on the designer label: "8624 #2" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30334/
Dress of red satin and black velvet. The above-the-knee length dress has a fitted princess-line bodice with dropped waist and V-neckline. The long sleeves have moderate puff at shoulders, and wrist closure with four red satin covered buttons on each wrist. The turned-back cuffs are of black velvet, as is the wired, rolled collar. The full skirt gathers at the waistline. There is a center-back zipper closure with hook-and-eye at neckline, and the collar detaches to accommodate the opening. The dress is fully lined in red chiffon, with bust pads and hip stay band which fastens at center back with hook-and-eye. Designer's label is sewn inside at right side near armhole: "Givenchy" "Made in France". Underneath the designer's label is sewn a second label with hand-written notation "80535". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30247/
Dress of polychrome cotton print. The floor-length dress is of cotton fabric with a raised "zig-zag" texture, in the style of cotton piqué weaving. It is printed with a series of horizontal bands in geometric designs in blues, reds, greens, tan/brown, orange, and purple. The sleeveless dress has a shallow boat neckline in front and deep squared-off neckline at back. The fitted bodice section ends at the natural waist, into which the long skirt is slightly gathered. The front of the skirt has two patch pockets of the same material, with the print matched to disguise the pockets. One of the lower bands of the skirt is embellished with applied non-functional circular gold-colored "buttons". The hem of the dress has a 7 cm. wide band horizontal band of red wool trim, from which hangs red wool fringe. The center back zipper closure has a single hook-and-eye at top. The dress is lined in red fabric.
The dress has two labels sewn inside. At left side at seam is designer's label "Lanvin / Paris New York"; at right side near zipper is size label "6". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30013/
Dress. Bodice of dress is made of chiffon with printed pattern of pink, red, green, blue, and purple swirls and bands and stylized foliage, woven with gold metallic threads forming paisley designs throughout bodice. Slight standing ring collar. The collar, waistband, cuffs, and bands running from collar along shoulders and down to cuffs are all trimmed with wide bands of gold braid/cording. The knee-length skirt is of red velour printed with large floral pattern in pink, purple, yellow, and dark maroon/brown. Reverse box pleat at center front, and zipper closure along back of garment, with three large gilt filigree buttons at collar. Cuffs also have 3 gilt buttons on each, with hidden snap closure. Dress is lined in pink fabric.
Designer's label sewn inside bodice: "Ronald Amey / New York". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30188/
Dress of printed silk with beads and sequins. Short dress of black silk is printed with a paisley design in yellow, red, and cream. The background is covered in heavy black beading and black sequins. The dress has a short standing collar and long set-in sleeves. There is a center back zipper from collar to hips. Fully lined in black fabric. Label of Dallas retailer inside back near collar on left side: "Marie Leavell" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30316/