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UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Texas Fashion Collection
- Patchwork Dress
Dress made of multiple fabrics including velvet, cotton, and silk in red, green, brown, blue, and orange multi-colored floral and Indian prints, in a patchwork of vertical strips with metallic thread trim. Applied throughout are decorative metallic ovals. The dress is full length, with a flared skirt, long bell sleeves, and a low square neckline. Unlined. Zipper at center back extending from neckline to just below waist, with a single hook-and-loop at neckline.
Label sewn to inside back to left of zipper: "Sant'Angelo".
Worn by singer Lena Horne (1917-2010). digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30289/
No Description digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc277019/
Pair of brown suede boots. Almost knee-high, the boots are constructed as slip-on rounded-toe shoes or moccasins with added segments on the quarter to create the length of the boots. At the top, the suede of the boots is folded over outwards forming a pocket for a drawstring around top and a band of suede fringe around the outside of the boot.
Indistinct trademark/logo stamped on sole. Illegible stamped mark inside boots.
Referred to as "Squaw Boots", these were worn by the donor who acquired them in 1968 from the Fishing Bridge Store, in Yellowstone National Park. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30322/
Coat of black wool. Mid-length coat with cape collar, and double-breasted front closure with two rows of 5 circular black plastic buttons. Exaggerated cuffs and front pockets. Lined in black cloth.
Designer's label sewn in collar at center back: "Norell"
Retailer's label sewn inside at right side: "Sakowitz / Houston"
Part of an ensemble which includes a dress of black wool and a belt. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc283685/
Dress of turquoise colored sateen cotton. Sleeveless with square yoked bodice. Lines of horizontal top stitching over body of dress. Two front patch pockets. Center front decorative short, white, plastic zipper. Back zipper closure with hook & eye. Knee length, but hem has been removed.
Designer's label at inside back zipper: "Courrèges / Paris / made in france"
Style number stamped on designer's label:"0078019"
Care instruction/fabric content tag attached to bottom of designer's label. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc283747/
- Ensemble - Coat and Skirt
Ensemble. Coat and matching skirt (not shown) of woven upholstery-weight fabric with stylized floral and geometric designs in burgundy and blue/black on a creme ground. Coat is mid-length, flaring slightly to hem, with long sleeves and a center-front opening. The opening, hem, and cuffs are all trimmed in a curly "lamb's wool" died burgundy to match the pattern. Fully lined in burgundy silk(?) With separate sash/belt. Labels in coat: Designer's label "Anne Klein" with lion logo; Dallas, Texas retailer's label "Marie Leavell".
Not shown is skirt in matching fabric, mid-length, with no trim. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30196/
Hat of light beige fur felt. Domed crown with wide, folded brim. Two bows of self under the back rim. Headband of light gray grosgrain ribbon. Unlined.
Designer's label at inside headband: "Miss Dior / Created by / Christian Dior"
Stamp on inside crown: "Helios / Body Made in Italy" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc283713/
Pair of pumps of mottled light brown/tan reptile skin. The shoes are designed with a rounded toe and squared-off vamp/instep. The edge of the upper has a border of small holes backed with black leather. The thick, chunky heel is covered with a black reptile leather, and flares to the base.
Designer's label stamped inside: "Andrew Geller"
Retailer's label stamped inside: "Neiman-Marcus"
Handwritten inside: "4 1/2 B / 628 380 / 461323G" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc87007/
Pair of shoes of navy blue leather. The shoes are designed with square toes and dark leather uppers. A wide rectangular panel of navy blue simulated reptile skin extends from the toe, up the vamp, below an oval cut-out in the vamp, and up the instep to create a tongue. The 2 1/4" high heel is covered with same blue leather, and tapers to base.
Maker's label stamped inside: "Esprit"
Stamped inside: "Leather upper & Sole / Other Mat'ls Man-Made"
Handwritten inside: "5 M 0320109 / A AA 37122 5" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc87002/
- Sling-Back Shoes
Pair of sling-back shoes of hand-painted leather. The shoes are designed with a slightly pointed toe, cut away beyond toe-box. The single strap fastens at outer edge with a gold buckle. The heel is a modified Spike heel, covered with matching leather.
The leather used is painted with a pale blue background on which is an over-all pattern of scrolling framework in beige and dark green, with rosettes, flowers, quatrefoils, etc. in greens, pinks, blues, etc.
Maker's label inside: "Herbert Levine / Fine Shoes" and "Hand Lasted"
Retailer's label inside: "Neiman-Marcus"
Handwritten inside: "6AAA 9214-4L2 / 32769" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114932/
Bright red/orange wool dress and coat ensemble from 1st collection.
a) Coat of bright red/orange wool. Long sleeves and collared neckline. Double breasted with large, covered snaps on inside as closure. Two pockets formed from panels on coat. Lined in red acetate.
Designer's label at inside, back neckline: "Jean Marie Armand / Paris / Made in France"
b) Dress . Bracelet length sleeves and jewel neckline. Knee length. Center front zipper. Hourglass shaped front panel forms pockets at left and right. Lined in red acetate.
Designer's label at inside, back neckline: "Jean Marie Armand / Paris / Made in France" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286926/
Hat of light brown leather printed with dark brown "squiggles". The domed crown is surmounted by a circular button covered with same leather. Around base of crown is a narrow band of same leather, tied, with trailing ends. The wide, floppy brim bends downwards. Unlined, with the leather is backed with a felt-like material. Inner brown grosgrain ribbon hatband.
No labels in the hat. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc305338/
- Platform Heels
Platform heel in red and white floral print on black ground. Shoes designed as open-toed pumps set on high platform at front, with wide band across vamp, open sides, and sling back which springs from a wide "Y" shaped strap. High, chunky heels taper slightly to base. Shoes covered with all-over print of large stylized flowers of red and white on a black ground.
Designer's label inside: "Andrea Pfister / Paris"
Marked on sole: "a / Made in Italy" and "35 1/2" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114944/
Raincoat of navy and white horizontal striped patent vinyl. The A-line coat is of short length, extending to just above the knee, and has long sleeves. Center-front opening has wide overlap, and is secured with 4 snaps. There are two side-seam pockets, and a red vinyl belt with square buckle. The coat is fully lined in dark maroon/purple/red taffeta.
Coat has single label: "La Flaque / de Paris". Belt has repeated stamped on reverse: "Excel / Backing Guaranteed Wash or clean / as garment" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30139/
Pair of sling-back shoes of hot pink brocade. The s hoes are designed with gently pointed toe. The toebox is of a single piece of brocade, cut in a slight wave from toe to instep, and sewn to create "petal" effect. Sling-back strap of same fabric, fastening at back of heel. Heel modified Louis style, tapering to base.
Designer's label stamped inside: "Salvatore Ferragamo / Florence / Italy"
Stamped on sole: "Hand made in Italy"
Handwritten inside: "DM 845 / 788 4 1/2B" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114934/
White leather mini-skirt with 4 applied black leather bands running horizontally around skirt. White leather suspenders attached at back, cross at back, and run over shoulders to fasten at circular white leather-covered buttons on waistband in front. Fully lined in white nylon. Shirt does not fit tight at waist.
Pictured with black knit turtle-neck top, long-sleeves.
Designer's label: "Courreges / Exclusively Designed in / Leather and Fabric for / Samuel Robert" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286823/
- Beach Clogs
Pair of beach clogs of wood and fabric. The wooden platform soles are "foot shaped", and secure to feet with a wide strap of striped cloth which passes through the sole at instep and ties at top of instep. Fabric is striped in black, yellow, red, white, and yellow.
Printed label affixed to sole: "Gymnastic"
Stamped on side: "6" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114849/
- Bolero Jacket
Bolero style evening jacket of off-white silk with clear beads and rhinestones. Long sleeves. Collarless with single hook & eye closure. Three dimensional beaded flowers trimming jacket and cuffs.
Designer's label: "Boutique / Christian Dior / Paris / Made in France"
Style number stamped on designer's label: "652551" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc115014/
- Dinner Gown
Dinner gown of red velvet. The full-length dress is of deep red velvet, embroidered in black to form an all-over pattern of "fish scales". Neckline is rounded, higher in front than back, and has full-length sleeves with a modified leg-of-mutton effect at the shoulders and zipper closures at wrists. The bodice is seamed, and has a natural waistline. The neckline, waistline, and upper part of sleeves/shoulders are edged in black cording/braid. Skirt is slightly gathered into the waistline braid. Center back zipper closure with hook-and-eye closure at neck. Small panel lining front of bodice at bust, the rest of the gown unlined.
No label sewn in garment, but retains original paper tag: obverse: "Vera Maxwell / Original"; reverse: "Vera Maxwell / Original / Fibre Content / 100% Wool / Style 121 / Size [blank] / Mat. [blank] / Account No. [blank]".
This gown is one of the "Dance Hall Girl" dresses from Ms. Maxwell's Southwest American Collection. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30090/
No Description digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc38038/
Hat of printed polyester/synthetic fabric. Cylindrical crown with slight domed top, and short, sloping brim, both covered with same fabric printed with "windows" design, some with central images of drums, harps, guitars, roundels, etc. Two bands of same fabric are sewn under brim to extend down and back to connect at back of wearer's head to secure hat. Inner green grosgrain ribbon hatband. Hat lined in dark olive green fabric.
Part of uniform for Braniff International Airways flight attendants.
Label inside at hatband: "Adolfo II / New York Paris".
Designer's signature in print: "Emilio" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc277108/
Hat of printed polyester/synthetic fabric. Cylindrical crown with slight domed top and short, sloping brim, both covered with same fabric printed with "windows" design, some with central images of drums, harps, guitars, roundels, etc. Two bands of same fabric are sewn under brim to extend down and back to connect at back of wearer's head to secure hat. Inner green grosgrain ribbon hatband. Hat lined in dark olive green fabric. Part of uniform for Braniff International Airways flight attendants.
Label inside at hatband: "Adolfo II / New York Paris".
Designer's signature in print: "Emilio" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30083/
Hat of plastic-coated paper. The hat is of novelty design, with a square crown of flame pink/orange with faint stripes/brick pattern, which is open along the vertical corners. The mostly-oval brim of the same material is set off-center, widest part from side to side, but with more brim at front than back. At front left, the brim extends and detaches from hat to hang down at side. At end of extension is cluster of petal forms made of the same material and a white version of same material. Around the base of the crown is a "hatband" formed of dense clusters of the same petals. The underside of the brim is of the flame pink/orange, while the inside of the crown is white. Around the inside base of the crown is a band of white grosgrain ribbon.
Designer's label inside at base of crown: "Sue Dooley / Dallas" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114844/
Slouch hat of plastic-coated paper. The high, cylindrical crown is of aqua blue, with "squashed" sides. At base of crown is think neon orange hatband tied with bow at right side near front. Medium-wide brim of pale green curves out and down, and is decorated with concentric bands of stitching. Edge and underside of brim faced with same blue as crown. At back of hat, under brim at edge, is a small bow of the orange neon material. Inside of crown is lined(?) with the pale green of the upper part of the brim. Around inside base of crown is band of white grosgrain ribbon.
Designer's label at inside back of lower edge of crown: "Sue Dooley / Dallas" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114846/
Jumpsuit of pink, yellow, green and blue horizontal striped paper. The full-length rayon fiber remay paper pantsuit has olive green, pink, blue and tan stripes. Bodice is sleeveless, empire style, with with high rounded neckline and narrow spread collar, with stripes going horizontally. There is a center back zipper closure from the neck to hip-level. Pants are full-length, wide legged palazzo pants with vertical stripes. The pant legs are slit from the hem to mid-calf, and are unhemmed. The piece is lined in a white rayon fiber paper cloth.
Retailer's label at inside left beneath the collar: "Change-In-Time / Boutique / Dallas, Texas". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30035/
- Kipper Tie
Wide kipper tie of large stylized paisley designs in yellows and gold on a blue field. Blue is somewhat faded from the original shade. The tie has a tag on reverse marked "Brent" and with the logo for Montgomery Ward.
The creation of the kipper tie, a form of extra-wide necktie known for bright colors and patterns, is credited to British designer Michael Fish. He brought out the earliest ones in the 1960's.
This example was a gift to the donor by his maternal grandmother, Mary Kathleen King Miller (1898-1969). digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30325/
Two-piece suit of dark orange knit. The ensemble includes a jacket, double-breasted, with princess seaming and a large cape collar. The full-length straight sleeves each have three circular black buttons and bound button-holes. The opening at front has two vertical rows of 4 black circular buttons, and a hidden snap closure at upper right. Attached to the jacket are four black patent leather belt carriers to support the accompanying thin black patent leather belt. Fully lined in black fabric. The jacket has designer's label sewn inside at back collar: "Norell". The matching skirt is short, with a 2" wide waistband into which the skirt gathers. Two slit pockets at side seams, one of which conceals zipper closure and line of snaps and hooks-and-eyes. Skirt is fully lined in orange fabric. No designer's label in skirt, but a single care label ("Do Not Use / Steam Iron") sewn below waistband at inside front. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30129/
- Beachwear Ensemble - Bikini and Coverup
Beach ensemble consisting of bikini and coverup.
The bikini top and bottom are of jersey printed with a modern art design of greens, pink and red stripes. Top has ties that go up and behind neck, and bands that reach around to back and secure with metal clasp. At front, between the cups along top edge is a non-functional tie made of piping made from the jersey material. Bikini bottom is low-cut. The coverup is of light chiffon, possibly silk, with swirling stripes in the same pattern as bikini. It is sleeveless, has a boat neckline, and rounded hemline.
The pieces of the ensemble have various tags:
In bikini top: "12"
In bikini bottom: "Emilio Schuberth / Roma / Fabricato in Italia"; Made in Italy / Exclusively for / Neiman-Marcus"; "Made in Italy"; "12"; Helanca / Filanca / Marche Int. Dep."
Stamped near hem of coverup: "Enzo Mari Per / Fio / Rio"; Sewn in tags: "Fio / Rio"; "Emilio Schuberth / Roma / Fabricato in Italia".
Pattern designed by Enzo Mari (b. Novara, Italy, 1932).
From the original Carrie Marcus Neiman Foundation collection assembled by Stanley and Edward Marcus. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30036/
- Belt And Buckle
Belt of finished black leather having a large openwork chrome buckle designed as letters spelling out "PEACE", within a rectangular frame. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30326/
- Body Suit With Tunic
Ensemble consisting of two pieces. Base garment is a light green knitted silk jersey bodysuit with over-length sleeves and legs. Zipper closure from throat to lower back at center back, with one hook-and-eye closure at top of zipper. Over the bodysuit is a tunic/tabard formed of two long rectangular panels of black silk with white printed polka dots all over. There are thin "straps" simulated at shoulders where panels meet, and a slightly rounded neckline. The panels are sewn at left side for 17 cm. below arm and open the rest of the length. On right side are three snaps and one hook-and-eye closure. The left shoulder is sewn shut, while the right side opens with hook-and-eye closure. The panels are lined in shocking pink silk.
Label in bodysuit: At inside left back, just beside zipper: "Rudi Gernreich".
Labels in tunic/tabard: At back inside, just below neckline: "Neiman-Marcus / Trophy Room"; At front inside, just below neckline: "Rudi Gernreich" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30029/
Pair of black suede boots. Over-calf-height square-toed boots lace up front, with 3 rows of eyelets at bottom and 15 hooks above. Block heel is covered in black suede. Lined in off-white kid leather and with a rubber and leather sole.
Impressed in rubber sole: "Made in France". Stamped on lining inside: "Charles Jourdan / Paris" and "8 1/2 2A 468069 LE" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30221/
- Breton Hat
Modified Breton style hat of hot pink straw with high crown covered with light blue, pink, gold purple and orange silk. Wide rolled-back brim. Lined.
Retailer's label on inside hatband: "Sanger Harris / Dallas"
Size tag to left of designer's label. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc277029/
- Cloche Hat
Cloche-like hat of brown felt velour. Brown grosgrain ribbon hatband forms double bow in front. Unlined with brown grosgrain ribbon inner headband.
Label on inside headband: "Genuine / Velour"
Union label to right of content label digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286852/
- Derby Hat
Derby style hat of navy blue velour. High, domed 4" deep crown with narrow upward curved brim. Unlined with blue grosgrain ribbon inner headband. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc305372/
Dress of navy blue wool knit. The mid-length dress has a contrasting red wool knit mandarin collar and long sleeves with red wool knit cuffs. There are two large patch pockets at front, and a center front closure with twelve circular mother-of-pearl buttons mounted with gold-colored metal rims and shanks. The buttonholes are bound with the contrasting red wool knit. The dress has an attached wide red wool knit belt/sash which ties at waist in front. The dress is fully lined in dark navy blue silk. Designer's label inside lining of skirt at side seam: "Norman Norell / New York" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30240/
Dress of white raw silk and linen blend. The dress is mid-length, with rounded neck and short sleeves. Set in from neckline is a narrow band of red silk with white line print forming a collar with bow at front. The trim is repeated at sleeve hems, and at lower edge of 2 faux pocket flaps at front. The dress is seamed and with short bust darts. Center back zipper closure with hook and loop at neckline. Fully lined in cream fabric.
Designer's label at inside left neckline: "Vera Maxwell / Original" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc87006/
Dress of red wool knit. Above-knee length, dress has a high band collar and long cuffed sleeves. Two large patch pockets at hips, and tie belt of same material. Center-back zipper. Red lace band inside at hem. Partly lined in red acetate(?)
Designer's label: "Norman Norell / New York" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc87065/
- Ensemble - Dress and Bolero Jacket
Ensemble. The dress is of ivory wool, full-length, and sleeveless with a scoop-neck. Slightly A-line, with a slit at left side from hem up 18". Neckline is lower in back than front, and there is a center back zipper closure with hook-and-eye at top. The dress is fully lined in cream fabric. Designer's label in dress at side seam: "Norman Norell / New York". The accompanying bolero jacket is of red-orange with long sleeves. The cuffs, mandarin collar, hem, and center-front opening are edged with a wide band of off-white fur (fox or mink?). The jacket is decorated with closely-sewn rhinestones. The jacket is fully lined in cream fabric, and has a single hook-and-eye closure near throat. The jacket has no labels. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30222/
- Evening Dress
Evening dress of black and white wool satin gaberdine with matching jacket.
a) Evening dress. Front and back centered panels of white fabric with sides of black fabric. Sleeveless, squared neckline, full length. Center back zipper closure. Very tailored, completely lined in white silk.
Designer's label at inside back zipper: "Jean Marie Armand / Paris / Made in France"
b) Jacket. Center front opening with four covered snaps. Bracelet length sleeves with turned-back cuffs in white fabric with one pointed end. Peter Pan collar in white fabric. Front and back centered panels of white fabric with sides and sleeves of black fabric. Completely lined in white silk.
Designer's label at inside back neckline: "Jean Marie Armand / Paris / Made in France" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc283691/
Hat of multicolor printed velvet. Geometric print with central section of circles and semi-circles. Circular crown with slightly domed top. Covering fabric has extending flaps at sides which come down over ears and secure under chin creating a wimple effect. Flaps secure with two snaps.
Part of uniform for Braniff International Airways flight attendant's.
No labels in hat. Designer's signature in print, under flap, "Emilio". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc276995/
Picture hat of dark pink/red Milan straw with wide brim. Pillbox crown trimmed with red and white polka dot organdy hatband which forms a bow on the right. Straw brim folds under and is lined in same polka dot organdy as hatband. Two hatpins with cloth covered heads in matching polka dot material.
Designer's label on inside hatband: "Sally Victor / 18 East 53rd St." digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc277092/
Pillbox style hat of tan fur felt. High crown with 2 small black buttons pinching the fabric throughout. Eight small black buttons form a V with black and red satin tubing as trim on edge. Inner headband of black grosgrain ribbon.
Maker's label on inside headband: "Helen Brounet / California" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286856/
Hat of tan taffeta. Pillbox style crown with topstitching that folds up sides to smooth top. Hatband of same tan taffeta. Lined in rose colored silk with inner headband of tan grosgrain ribbon. Comb for securing hat to wearer's head attached at inside back.
Handwritten label of white satin ribbon on inside crown: "Helen Kagan" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286898/
Hat of black velvet. Toque style crown of black lace covered with flat strips of black velvet ribbon on sides. Edge of brim covered in black velvet. Unlined.
Retailer's label on inside crown: " Sakowitz / Houston" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286877/
Hat of natural straw. The conical hat has a rounded top, and a "waist" part way down where the curve of the hat changes. The entire hat is overlaid with bands of colored raffia (blue; white; yellow; orange; dark blue; purple; and green) extending from the top of the crown to the brim. From the top of the hat extends a tassel/streamers of the same strands of raffia. Unlined, with white inner hatband, and a white string attached to help secure hat to wearer's head.
Label attached to back of crown: "Made in Japan"
Written on inner headband in blue marker: "77 [illeg]" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc277037/
Hat of woven pink straw. In the "Flower-pot" style, the hat has a tall, cylindrical crown, flattened at top. At base of crown is a wide band pleated pink chiffon which has a cross-over in back and bow in front. At front are affixed artificial pink chiffon-like roses with green leaves and stems. The brim of the hat curves down and curls under at edge, but is covered by layers of matching pink chiffon. The hat is unlined, with inner pink grosgrain ribbon hatband. Accompanied by one plain hat pin.
Label sewn to inner ribbon band: "Miss / Eileen". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc277057/
Hat of red straw. High, rounded crown somewhat like a cloche, surmounted by a ball of same red straw. Roughly oval brim, turning up towards edge, higher in front than back. Brim and base of crown edged with thin band of red grosgrain(?) ribbon. Unlined. Inner hatband of red grosgrain ribbon.
Designer's label inside at inner hatband: "Oleg Cassini"
Union Label inside.
Hat of natural colored finely woven straw with narrow brim that curves up in front. Domed crown trimmed with olive colored tubing with red, yellow and white velvet flowers. Unlined with pale yellow grosgrain ribbon inner headband.
Retailer's label: "Made to Order Hat / Bergdorf / Goodman / Fifth Ave. at 58th St." digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286885/
Hat of black felt. Modified breton style with high, domed crown and asymmetrical, cupped 3" rolled brim. Hatband of 1 1/2" wide black grosgrain ribbon with flat 4" long tail. Unlined with black grosgrain ribbon inner headband.
Stamp on inside crown: "100% Wool / Ritz / Heny Pollak Inc. / New York"
Size tag on inside headband: "22 1/2" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286934/
Hat of burnt ochre fur felt with high crown. Wide floppy, asymmetrical brim with burnt ochre grosgrain ribbon hatband forming bow in back and row of crystal beads at base.
Crown stamped: "La Vienne / Imported Body / Made in Austria" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286848/