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  Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
 Decade: 1960-1969
 Collection: Texas Fashion Collection
Kipper Tie
Wide kipper tie of large stylized paisley designs in yellows and gold on a blue field. Blue is somewhat faded from the original shade. The tie has a tag on reverse marked "Brent" and with the logo for Montgomery Ward. The creation of the kipper tie, a form of extra-wide necktie known for bright colors and patterns, is credited to British designer Michael Fish. He brought out the earliest ones in the 1960's. This example was a gift to the donor by his maternal grandmother, Mary Kathleen King Miller (1898-1969). digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30325/
Suit
Two-piece suit of dark orange knit. The ensemble includes a jacket, double-breasted, with princess seaming and a large cape collar. The full-length straight sleeves each have three circular black buttons and bound button-holes. The opening at front has two vertical rows of 4 black circular buttons, and a hidden snap closure at upper right. Attached to the jacket are four black patent leather belt carriers to support the accompanying thin black patent leather belt. Fully lined in black fabric. The jacket has designer's label sewn inside at back collar: "Norell". The matching skirt is short, with a 2" wide waistband into which the skirt gathers. Two slit pockets at side seams, one of which conceals zipper closure and line of snaps and hooks-and-eyes. Skirt is fully lined in orange fabric. No designer's label in skirt, but a single care label ("Do Not Use / Steam Iron") sewn below waistband at inside front. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30129/
Beachwear Ensemble - Bikini and Coverup
Beach ensemble consisting of bikini and coverup. The bikini top and bottom are of jersey printed with a modern art design of greens, pink and red stripes. Top has ties that go up and behind neck, and bands that reach around to back and secure with metal clasp. At front, between the cups along top edge is a non-functional tie made of piping made from the jersey material. Bikini bottom is low-cut. The coverup is of light chiffon, possibly silk, with swirling stripes in the same pattern as bikini. It is sleeveless, has a boat neckline, and rounded hemline. The pieces of the ensemble have various tags: In bikini top: "12" In bikini bottom: "Emilio Schuberth / Roma / Fabricato in Italia"; Made in Italy / Exclusively for / Neiman-Marcus"; "Made in Italy"; "12"; Helanca / Filanca / Marche Int. Dep." Stamped near hem of coverup: "Enzo Mari Per / Fio / Rio"; Sewn in tags: "Fio / Rio"; "Emilio Schuberth / Roma / Fabricato in Italia". Pattern designed by Enzo Mari (b. Novara, Italy, 1932). From the original Carrie Marcus Neiman Foundation collection assembled by Stanley and Edward Marcus. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30036/
Belt And Buckle
Belt of finished black leather having a large openwork chrome buckle designed as letters spelling out "PEACE", within a rectangular frame. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30326/
Body Suit With Tunic
Ensemble consisting of two pieces. Base garment is a light green knitted silk jersey bodysuit with over-length sleeves and legs. Zipper closure from throat to lower back at center back, with one hook-and-eye closure at top of zipper. Over the bodysuit is a tunic/tabard formed of two long rectangular panels of black silk with white printed polka dots all over. There are thin "straps" simulated at shoulders where panels meet, and a slightly rounded neckline. The panels are sewn at left side for 17 cm. below arm and open the rest of the length. On right side are three snaps and one hook-and-eye closure. The left shoulder is sewn shut, while the right side opens with hook-and-eye closure. The panels are lined in shocking pink silk. Label in bodysuit: At inside left back, just beside zipper: "Rudi Gernreich". Labels in tunic/tabard: At back inside, just below neckline: "Neiman-Marcus / Trophy Room"; At front inside, just below neckline: "Rudi Gernreich" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30029/
Boots
Pair of black suede boots. Over-calf-height square-toed boots lace up front, with 3 rows of eyelets at bottom and 15 hooks above. Block heel is covered in black suede. Lined in off-white kid leather and with a rubber and leather sole. Impressed in rubber sole: "Made in France". Stamped on lining inside: "Charles Jourdan / Paris" and "8 1/2 2A 468069 LE" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30221/
Breton Hat
Modified Breton style hat of hot pink straw with high crown covered with light blue, pink, gold purple and orange silk. Wide rolled-back brim. Lined. Retailer's label on inside hatband: "Sanger Harris / Dallas" Size tag to left of designer's label. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc277029/
Cloche
Cloche-style hat made of a teal or blue/green fur felt. Trimmed at top of crown with teal grosgrain ribbon ornament, and with a matching ribbon running around the hat at the base of the crown. Label inside marked "Marche Exclusive" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30003/
Dress
Dress of navy blue wool knit. The mid-length dress has a contrasting red wool knit mandarin collar and long sleeves with red wool knit cuffs. There are two large patch pockets at front, and a center front closure with twelve circular mother-of-pearl buttons mounted with gold-colored metal rims and shanks. The buttonholes are bound with the contrasting red wool knit. The dress has an attached wide red wool knit belt/sash which ties at waist in front. The dress is fully lined in dark navy blue silk. Designer's label inside lining of skirt at side seam: "Norman Norell / New York" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30240/
Dress
Dress of white raw silk and linen blend. The dress is mid-length, with rounded neck and short sleeves. Set in from neckline is a narrow band of red silk with white line print forming a collar with bow at front. The trim is repeated at sleeve hems, and at lower edge of 2 faux pocket flaps at front. The dress is seamed and with short bust darts. Center back zipper closure with hook and loop at neckline. Fully lined in cream fabric. Designer's label at inside left neckline: "Vera Maxwell / Original" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc87006/
Ensemble - Dress and Bolero Jacket
Ensemble. The dress is of ivory wool, full-length, and sleeveless with a scoop-neck. Slightly A-line, with a slit at left side from hem up 18". Neckline is lower in back than front, and there is a center back zipper closure with hook-and-eye at top. The dress is fully lined in cream fabric. Designer's label in dress at side seam: "Norman Norell / New York". The accompanying bolero jacket is of red-orange with long sleeves. The cuffs, mandarin collar, hem, and center-front opening are edged with a wide band of off-white fur (fox or mink?). The jacket is decorated with closely-sewn rhinestones. The jacket is fully lined in cream fabric, and has a single hook-and-eye closure near throat. The jacket has no labels. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30222/
Hat
Hat of green and white felted fur. The hat has a domed, circular crown and an asymmetrical up-turning brim. The crown and inner part of the brim are dyed in a green and white "op-art" pattern of geometric shapes which can be viewed as small green shapes on larger white shapes on a green ground. The outer part of the brim is dyed solid green. At one side is an arrow-shaped ornament of green grosgrain ribbon, the tail of which extends out over the brim and curls upwards. Inside the crown is a hatband of green grosgrain ribbon. Sewn to the hatband ribbon is a large designer's tag: "Schiaparelli / Paris". Stamped inside the crown "Body / Made In Italy" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30300/
Hat
Hat of multicolor printed velvet. Geometric print with central section of circles and semi-circles. Circular crown with slightly domed top. Covering fabric has extending flaps at sides which come down over ears and secure under chin creating a wimple effect. Flaps secure with two snaps. Part of uniform for Braniff International Airways flight attendant's. No labels in hat. Designer's signature in print, under flap, "Emilio". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc276995/
Hat
Picture hat of dark pink/red Milan straw with wide brim. Pillbox crown trimmed with red and white polka dot organdy hatband which forms a bow on the right. Straw brim folds under and is lined in same polka dot organdy as hatband. Two hatpins with cloth covered heads in matching polka dot material. Designer's label on inside hatband: "Sally Victor / 18 East 53rd St." digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc277092/
Jacket
Waist-length black simulated alligator jacket. The cropped shell is constructed of panels of leather blind-stamped to simulate alligator. Panels are edged with silver-colored circular metal grommeted eyelets, and are joined with knitted black cording. The high, rounded spread collar is of ribbed black knit. Zipper closure from throat to hem at center front. The jacket is unlined, and has two interior, black canvas, envelope pockets with snap closures. Label is located inside at center back, below the collar. "Paco Rabanne / Paris Made in France". Jacket was donated as part of an ensemble which also included black wool and cashmere knit sweater by Dior, and black hip-hugger trousers by Remy. The Valerian Stux-Rybar collection of materials was donated by Jean-Francois Daigre to the Metropolitan Museum of Art in memory of Daigre's companion V.Stux-Rybar. Part of collection was subsequently transferred from the Metropolitan Museum of Art to the Texas Fashion Collection. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30238/
Jeans
Pair of jeans. Commercially manufactured Levi Strauss & Co. denim blue jeans which have been bleached to white, then disassembled and reassembled with embellishments of multi-color crewel embroidered fabric and glass beads. Jeans have two front pockets and two back pockets, front zipper fly and button at waistband. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30328/
Mini Dress
Sheath-style mini dress of pink linen with all-over eyelash fringe. The linen-weave garment is sleeveless, with rounded neckline. It is printed with an elongated honey-comb pattern in shades of pink and white with woven-in fringe throughout. At each shoulder is three circular pink cloth covered buttons. The honeycomb pattern starts out light pink, and darkens towards the hem of the dress. Lower hem is dagged, following the line of the pattern. Lined at hem and upper part in pink. Label in center back inside: "Remas / of Scottsdale" 96 cm. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30138/
Mini Dress
Mini dress of bright red wool jersey knit. The tubular mini dress has a rounded neckline and short sleeves. Black, shiny vinyl trim at neckline, sleeve hem, lower hem, and in the form of six Pierre Cardin bullseye trademarks arranged in a triangle from natural waist to lower hem. At center back are hook and eye and zipper closure. Dress is unlined. Designer's label: "Pierre Cardin / Paris New York" Care label: "The vinyl trim / on this garment / has been specially treated / to make dry cleaning possible". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc87026/
Mitts
Pair of off-white nylon mitts. The elbow-length fingerless gloves have a loop for the thumb, and are embellished along the finger opening with a trim of openwork daisy heads. Stamped: "Nylasuede / by Hansen / 6 1/2" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc86995/
Pillbox Hat
Hat of brown velvet. Pillbox hat with cylindrical crown of brown velvet, flat at top. Lower edge scalloped, edged with brown beads. The whole is overlaid with fine brown veiling. Lined in black mesh and edged with brown grosgrain ribbon inner hatband. Affixed to hatband are two plastic combs, one on either side, to secure hat to wearer's head. Designer's label inside crown: "Bes-Ben / Made in Chicago". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc38073/
Pumps
Pumps of black velvet. The shoes are designed with gently pointed toe and plain uppers. A narrow band of low-pile area outlines the foot opening. The 3 1/8" high spike heel is covered with the same velvet as the upper. Designer's stamp inside: "Andrew Geller / Exquisite Footwear" Retailer's label inside: "Neiman-Marcus" Handwritten inside: "5 1/2 aa / 49199 / S9013a" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc87020/
Sailor Hat
Hat in sailor style of red straw with wide flat brim trimmed with 3 big silk roses and small white and pink flowers. Flat crown trimmed with triangular pulls from straw. Red nose veil that ties in back with narrow red velvet ribbon. Hatpin with spherical pink head. Unlined with red grosgrain inner headband. Manufacturer's label: "Mrs. Eugene Gray Inc. / Columbus, Ohio Harbor Springs, Mich" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc277023/
Toque
Toque of black velvet. The circular, domed crown is of black velvet. The black velvet brim at sides and front folds up around crown, and is gathered ruched/shirred to form horizontal "tucks" around the crown. At front of hat the brim extends somewhat higher than back. At sides and front of hat are black netting veil. Hat is lined in black fabric. Hat has an inner black grosgrain ribbon hatband. There are no designer's, maker's, or retailer's labels in the hat. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39206/
Vest
Vest of blue, red and white suede. The blue body of the vest has star-shaped cut-outs, revealing the white lining. From the body of the vest hangs floor-length red fringe. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30329/
Calotte
Calotte of beaded black satin. Evening hat in the form of a calotte (also spelled "calot"). The low, domed crown is made of segments of black satin over a core of woven straw. The surface is embellished with black plastic sequins and beads of various sizes. At top of crown is small squashed spheroid finial covered with a pattern of cylindrical and circular faceted black plastic beads. Inside lower edge of crown is black grosgrain ribbon band. Sewn behind band are three elastic loops to help secure hat to head of wearer. No labels. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30149/
D'Orsay Pumps
Pair of D'Orsay pumps of black faille. Large fabric rosette applied at vamp, set with rhinestones. Heel tapers to base. Retailer's label stamped inside: "Chandler's" and "French Room / Originals" Partly illegible marks inside: ".... 4 1/2 B 2984 / 92774 - 213W" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc87001/
Pumps
Pair of pumps of beige leather. The shoes are designed with a square toe and plain uppers with a large bow at vamp formed of a twist of the same leather. Heels covered in same leather, tapering to base. Designer label: "Herbert Levine" Retailer Label: "Amen Wardy / El Paso Texas" Handwritten inside: "7 1/2M / 30030" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc115010/
Shoes
Shoes of red leather with large rectangular accent panel of white textured leather on vamp which curls up from toe and lays over vamp. Stacked chunky heel. Opening piped in black leather. Square toe. Navy blue heel. Designer label: "Herbert Levine" Retailer label: "Amen Wardy / El Paso Texas" Handwritten inside: "7 1/2 M / 30033" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc115011/
Toque Hat
Toque hat made of brown and beige fur felt with bands of fabric sewn and blocked. Lower band and top of crown in brown with upper band in beige. One safety style pin with two circles of rhinestones and large rhinestone in center as trim. Designer's label sewn inside crown: "Mr. John Jr." digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc277007/
Hat
Sailor hat of natural straw cloth with wide red velvet band and bow under brim formed as part of hatband. Small brim also has narrow band of red velvet around outside edge on top. Size label: "22 1/2" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc277120/
Raincoat
( At left) Raincoat of black vinyl. The modified A-line coat is of short length, extending to just at or below the knee, and has long sleeves. Center-front opening is secured with 3 silver/chrome clip closures, one at the rounded neckline and two at waist. There is one patch pocket at the right hip. The coat is fully lined in synthetic with vertical stripes of pink, green, blue, violet, and red on a black ground. Manufacturer's label inside at center back just below neckline: "La Flaque / de Paris". At right inside side-seam is a Union Label. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30086/
Breton Hat
Modified Breton hat of natural straw cloth with beige grosgrain ribbon as hatband and around edge of crown. Lined in cream colored satin. Designer's label: "Jan Leslie / Custom Design" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc277052/
Breton Hat
Breton style hat of shiny red straw with pillbox crown. High, rolled back brim almost obscures crown. Red grosgrain ribbon covered button and streamers at center top of crown. Wide, red grosgrain ribbon forms hatband around crown. Unlined. Retailer's label on inside hatband: "Sanger Harris / Dallas" Size tag: "22" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc277129/
Hat
"Lampshade" style hat of black straw or raffia. The basically conical hat is woven of a black straw material, with flattened top. On the front of the hat, off-set to the left, is affixed a wide black velvet ribbon from the top edge of the crown down to almost the brim. Sewn to the ribbon at top is a circular stamped metal brooch set with 17 large circular rhinestones in three concentric circles. The hat is lined in black net, with inner black grosgrain hatband. Sewn to the inner ribbon band is manufacturer's label: "Edette / Exclusive / New York - Paris" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30155/
Hat
Hat of black silk chiffon. The hat is formed from a cylindrical pillbox style hat surmounted by a conical section that is folded back and flares out to form an extension behind the hat. Where the surmounting piece meets the pillbox is a black bow formed from the same cloth. Inside of crown is lined in stiff black netting, and has a black grosgrain ribbon running along the base of the crown. A small plastic comb is sewn in front of hat to inner ribbon to secure it to wearer's head. No labels. The donor records that "... Balenciaga showed it with dress and sleeveless coat..." digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30135/
Hat
Hat of fine Milan off-white straw. Asymmetrical rolled-back brim is high in front and tapers to narrow back. Hatband of off-white organza scarf ties into bow in back as trim. Hatpin with clear, teardrop shaped head. Designer's label on inside hatband: "Atelier Lucas / Made in London" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc277125/
Pillbox Hat
Hat of black silk tulle and satin in the form of a low pillbox of black silk tulle, tapering slightly to the shallow-domed crown. On the right side is a cascade of dyed green ostrich feathers. No designer's label. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30179/
Pillbox Hat
Pillbox hat of black silk satin with a puff of ostrich feathers at right side. Organza bow atop feathers. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30178/
Shirt
Homemade, long-sleeved shirt of gold brocade, with straight button front, in the popular Elvis Presley or Renaissance style of the late 1960's. Multiple ballooned areas on the sleeves. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30324/
Shoes
Pair of shoes of green leather. Styled as "sling-backs" with an open, rounded toe. The sides of the instep are connected by a square gold colored metal link. The strap at back heel is closed, with no buckle. The 3 3/4" high heel tapers slightly to base. Maker's mark stamped inside: "Palizzio" Handwritten inside: "5 B 1978 / 113PL83" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc87000/
Pillbox Hat
Pillbox style hat of red straw cloth with small narrow brim. Wide, red grosgrain ribbon around crown topped with red vinyl ribbon and bow with top stitching. Inside crown lined in net. Manufacturer's label on inside hatband: "Ceder Crest / Original" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc277167/
Breton Hat
Hat in modified breton style of pale grey straw with light blue pleated fabric around high crown. Cream colored veil covers entire hat. Unlined. Designer's label on inside headband: "Miss Eileen" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc277021/
Calotte Hat
Calotte style hat of white simulated alligator in free form with 3 bows of same. Hat and bows trimmed with white glass beads. Two brown combs attached to inside grosgrain hatband for securing hat to head. Navy veil interspersed with groups of 3 white glass beads matching those on hat. Designer's label: "Bes-Ben / Made in Chicago" Handwritten label attached to hatband: "82" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc38100/
Calotte Hat
Calotte style hat in cut out triangular shape of white leather with white glass beaded edges on leather strips. Bow of same on center front top. Bow at center back of white glass beads. Navy veil. Two small combs, one attached on each side. Designer's label on inside band: "Bes-Ben / Made in Chicago" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc38077/
Cloche
Cloche hat of medium brown coiled and plaited fibers. The high crown is crafted of spiraling band of plaited and coiled brown yarn(?)and incorporates looped sections, with iridescent flat ribbon wrapped around elements of the band. There is a horizontal "tuck" at back of hat, and a slight "visor" effect at front. The hat is unlined. Retailer's label sewn inside crown: "Made in France for / Neiman-Marcus". While in the style of a 1920's/1930's cloche, the materials, label, and construction date this piece to the 1960's. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39235/
Derby
Derby of hot pink leaves. Hat in the style of a derby, completely covered in various shades of hot pink leaf-shapes cut out of velvet, satin, and other fabrics. Cylindrical crown, up-turned brim. The hat is lined in hot pink fabric and has a pink grosgrain ribbon inner hatband. Sewn into the inner hatband is a homemade(?) hand embroidered label: "Jo Bailey Hats" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30291/
Dress
Dress. Floor-length dress of ivory knit, overlaid with a gold netting. Sleeveless and with a boat-neckline, the sheath-style dress has ornate heavy gold cording around neckline, armholes, along side-seams, and hem. The skirt has small side slits, and a center lapped zipper closure located along center-back of garment with hook-and-eye closure at top of zipper. Lined with a light polyester. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30309/
Ensemble - Blouse and Pants
Lounge ensemble in pink silks. The pantsuit consists of a blouse and pants. The blouse is of pink silk, constructed as two layers. The inner lining layer is of plain pink gauze. The outer layer is of pink silk heavily decorated with patterns created by shibori technique dying. The blouse has long sleeves and a center-front zipper closure that runs almost the entire length of the garment and has a single hook-and-eye at throat. The collar, cuffs, hem, and flap over the zipper are a small ruffle of the same materials. The shibori patterns use green, yellow, blue, and the original white of the fabric to create bands of tiny "puckers", large circular forms, and abstract shapes. The pants are of pink silk taffeta, about ankle length, with elastic cuffs. Plain waistband, with zipper closure at center front and single hook-and-eye at waistband. Described in early records as harem pants, but lacking the fullness associated with that style. Both garments have the same series of labels. Designer's label: "Martine Grandval / Made in France Paris"; material label "100% Silk"; and retailer's label: "ViV / Neiman-Marcus / Made in France". The shibori fabric may be of Indian, Pakistani, or Asian origin, based on the particular way that the shibori tye-dying technique has been used on the garment. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30096/
Ensemble - Coat and Dress
Ensemble consisting of a coat and dress. The mid-length coat is of knit with a printed pattern of blue geometric shapes on a bright red ground, and has long sleeves and moderate collar with rounded points. Center-front opening with 4 square dark blue plastic buttons. Across back of coat is an attached belt of the same fabric, with buttons at each side, but does not extend around to the front. Fully lined in dark blue fabric. The mid-length dress is of the same fabric, and has short sleeves, a rounded neckline, and flares slightly to hem. The dress has a center-back zipper closure and is lined in the same fabric as the coat. Coat has a single retailer's label: "Lou Lattimore / Dallas" inside back at collar. Dress has slightly smaller version of same label, sewn inside at left of zipper near neckline. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30209/
Evening Dress
Cream silk jersey evening dress / ballgown with beaded decoration and matching belt. A) Full-length gown, bodice embellished with hand-embroidered stylized leaves/buds in cream on a ground of silver, green, and mauve beads. Shoulders and thin collar with solid fields of beading. Short, wide sleeves edged with silver and clear beads. Center back opening with hook-and-eyes at top and bottom, no closure along mid-back. Plain cream silk jersey skirt, gathered into waist. Closure at right hip, with band of hook-and-eyes along back waistline, and series of hidden snaps down from waistline. Bodice lined in silk gauze, skirt lined in heavier cream silk. Inner grosgrain ribbon waistband with hook-and-eye closure. Designer's label at inside waistband: "Givenchy"; under designer's label is hidden design/style # tag with handwritten notation: "54783" B) Belt of cream silk gauze-backed silk jersey, 2" wide x 30" long, completely covered in beading matching bodice. Hook-and-eye closure at ends. No marks/labels on belt. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc87027/