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UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Texas Fashion Collection
Headpiece. Turban-like ring or headband of olive green rayon with a central horizontal band of twisted fabric with single large knot. Bordered all the way around at top and bottom by two layers of the same fabric, pleated and scalloped.
Designer's label sewn inside: "Zandra Rhodes / London", with hand-written notes: "100% Rayon / England". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286892/
Headpiece. Turban-like ring or headband of olive green rayon. Pleated horizontally with a "cross-over" at front which is edged with pleated scallops of same fabric.
Label sewn inside: "Zandra Rhodes / London", with hand-written notes: "100% Rayon / England" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286850/
Jacket of black, green, red, pink, and yellow flannel in a large, painterly plaid pattern. The jacket is just below hip-length, and has a round neckline and no collar. Center front closure has a zipper with a gold metal rose charm pull, matching the pulls of the zippers on the two diagonal slit pockets at hips. Long-sleeved, with three non-functional buttons at wrists, formed as coiled snakes/spirals of gold metal. The jacket has inner shoulder pads and is fully lined in black satin.
Designer's label: "Ungaro / Parallele / Paris" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286901/
Jacket of off-white linen. Fitted, waist length jacket with wide, notched collar and long sleeves with 3" cuffs and two white, circular buttons and barred buttonholes. Two patch pockets at bust line. Unlined.
Combined designer's/retailer's label: "Christian Dior / for / Lou Lattimore, Inc. / Paris New York"
Care label to right of designer's label.
Lot/size tag at right underarm (faded): "Lot / Size 10"
With tie belt for jacket of same fabric; 1" wide. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc501291/
- D'Orsay Pumps
Pair of D'Orsay pumps of gray leather. The shoes are designed with pointed toes, and cut-away sides. Toebox has a deep "v" cut at throat of instep, edged with red as is the platform of the shoe. From the point of the cut extends back a t-strap which fastens around the ankle of wearer with a small buckle. 3 1/2" high stiletto heel covered with same gray leather.
Stamped inside: "Charles Jourdan / Paris / Made in France"
Accompanied by original Charles Jourdan shoebox. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc115005/
- Picture Hat
Picture hat of coiled braided straw. The 4" high domed crown is encircled at the base by a pale purple/lilac ribbon with artificial violets at back with 4-lobed bow and trailing ribbons. The 5 3/4" wide brim is slightly floppy, curving downwards. Hat is unlined, with inner off-white grosgrain ribbon hatband.
Designer's label at inside: "From My / Private Collection / Frank Olive"
Origin label inside: "Made in Italy" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc461831/
- Platform Pumps
Pair of platform pumps. Shoes are of brown patent leather, with white top stitching. Pointed toes, and a 4" block set-back heel.
Stamped in each shoe: "107 N 7"; "Yves Saint Laurent / Paris". Stamped on soles: "Made / Vero / Cuoio / Italy / AA / 7" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114948/
Pair of pumps of plastic and leather. The pumps are of a plastic printed with a multi-colored hologram surface of stripes with stars, stripes and dots. 3" spike heels covered with blue leather. White leather inner. Sole of brown and black leather.
Label inside each shoe: "Stuart Weitzman / for / Mr. Seymour".
Stamped inside each shoe: "5W 79087 N 7 1/2"
Stamped on sole: "Leather / Sole" in hide outline; Stuart Weitzman & Co / Made in Spain" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39032/
Pair of speckled taupe leather pumps. Uppers of light taupe leather embellished with tiny grayish flat pebbled textural design. Toe cap of black patent leather. 3 3/4" spike heel covered in black patent leather. Lined in olive leather except inner heel, which is lined in natural light brown leather. Soles of black leather.
Stamped in each shoe: "Charles Jourdan / Paris / Made in France".
Stamped inside each heel: "37 X 7 2A 586855 NF".
Stamped on sole: "Leather / Leder / Cuir / Made in / France" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39038/
Pair of tan and black leather sling-back pumps. Uppers of tan/brown leather with black leather toe cap. Sling-back strap with gilt metal buckle. 2 3/4" continental heel covered in tan/brown leather. Shoe lined in putty colored leather. Sole of natural brown leather.
Stamped in each shoe: "Made in France"; Chanel / [logo]".
Stamped inside upper: "105002 37".
Stamped on sole: "37 / DE / [logo] / Coupe monte fini main". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39036/
- Skirt Suit
A) Jacket of fuchsia flat weave wool with ring collar and zip-front closure; long raglan sleeves with inner shoulder pads; circular geometrical stitched panels at front and back; two circular patch pockets at hips; crescent princess seams; fitted at waist; peplum at back with reverse box pleat and attached belt of self-wool with metal buckle above; lower hip length; partially lined in magenta synthetic.
B) Skirt of black stretch wool with 2” waistband with diagonal snap closure; darts at front and back; center-back zip closure; 18 ½” length. Size 38
Designer's label: "Thierry Mugler / Paris" "Made in France" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286904/
- Skirt Suit
Skirt suit of gray fine plaid.
A) Jacket of gray fine plaid with an over-layer of black floral lace exposing the plaid; lace has scallop trim 2” above the wrists and hem of the jacket. Jacket has round neckline; 4 gray button closure down center-front; long sleeves with inner shoulder pads; lower hip length; fully lined in black synthetic.
B) Skirt of matching plaid with 1 ½” waistband with center-back zip and hook and eye closure; darts at front and back; lined in black synthetic; 17” length.
Designer's Label: "Bill Blass"
Retailer's label: "Neiman Marcus" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286873/
Cape of tan cashmere knit with mink border. About waist/hip length at front and sides, with triangular point reaching almost to knee at back. Unlined.
Designer's label at center back neckline: "Halston" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc501308/
Dress of olive green knit with long raglan sleeves. V-neckline with right side panel wrapping over to left and ending at left-front side. Skirt has panel wrapping over to right and ending at right-front side and creating a flap. Lower mid-length. Center-back zip closure with single gold plated button closure at back neck band. Padded shoulders. Unlined.
Designer's label at back neckline: "Geoffrey Beene"
Union label, cleaning instructions and size tag together at center back seam towards hem. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc283721/
Dress of black silk chiffon with large, painterly, abstract designs of red, gold, light gray, blue, and purple in a swirly teardrop shape throughout over black silk. Three-quarter length sleeves with flutter ruffle along top seam. Round scoop neckline. Sheath-like silhouette; ankle-length. Center-back, self-chiffon covered button closure.
Designer's label at back neckline: "Hanae Mori / Boutique"
Care / size tag attached to base of designer's label.
Labels suggest made for USA market.
Accompanied by a barrette of black grosgrain ribbon carnation with tiny ribbon accents of red, turquoise, and purple satin that was worn with dress. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc283708/
- Ensemble - Dress and Skirt
Dress ensemble of red lace with dark brown and metallic gold embroidery in floral design.
A) Dress. Calf length with rolled collar. Four-snap closure down center front. Elastic waistline. Long straight sleeves with band cuffs and snap closure. Scalloped hem. Unlined.
Designer's label at center back neckline: "Miss Dior / Made in France"
B) Skirt of red silk. Straight with 1" waistband. Center back closure of covered hook & eye on waistband and 2 snaps. Evidence of four removed darts.
C) Belt of self-covered leather; 2" wide. Gold circle buckle with two hooks and three pairs of grommets for closure. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc498978/
- Ensemble - Jacket, Skirt and Blouse
Suit in hot pink nubbly wool knit. The ensemble consists of three pieces: a jacket, matching skirt, and black silk shell.
The jacket is hip-length, with a shawl collar which has an attached black silk tie. The center front closure has 6 circular brass buttons with central embossed lion's heads and black outer edges. There are four faux flap pockets at front, two on each side of opening, each with button matching those of the closure. The long sleeves have simulated closure, with a line of three buttons matching others on each sleeve. The pocket flaps, cuffs, collar, center front, and hem are all edged in black. Designer's label sewn inside jacket at collar: "Adolfo / New York", with retailer's label sewn in just below: "Neiman-Marcus". The matching skirt is below-knee length, of the same pink wool knit, with pleating beginning 7" below waistband and extending to hem. Skirt has designer's label sewn inside at waistband as jacket. The accompanying black silk blouse is sleeveless, with rounded neckline. Single black silk -covered button closure at back of neck. Shell has designer's label sewn inside at left of closure as jacket. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30285/
- Ensemble - Vest and Pants
Ensemble consisting of a vest and pants. The vest is of wool,with a scoop-neck and with 5 hook-and-eye closures down center front. It is covered in sewn-on black sequins, and has a 1" border of orange, white and gold beads with gold trim at neckline, front opening, hem, and armholes. On the front and back of the vest are 3" diamond shapes formed of the same beads. The white and orange beads are plastic. The vest is fully lined in black fabric. Labels in vest: "Valentina LTD / RN 34435 / Made in Hong Kong"; "100% Wool / Made in Hong Kong"; and "Medium". The pants are formed as a divided skirt of black wool in a satin weave simulating crepe-back satin. They are floor length, with full-length accordion pleats. There is a wide 3" waistband that is completely beaded to match the vest. The pants have a center back zipper closure with hook-and-eye at waistband, and are unlined. Inside the pants is a single tag at waistband: "Lot Number 11/12". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30302/
- Suit - Jacket and Skirt
Suit of black wool consisting of:
Jacket of almost hip-length, with no collar; double breasted, with V neckline and 4 buttons center front, in rows of two. Two flap pockets front; two bust darts; Long sleeves with single button cuffs. Built-in shoulder pads, and fully lined.
Designer's label at inside back neck: "Christian Dior / The Suit / Paris New York"
Care label below Designer's label: "Dry Clean / Made in U.S.A."
Content label at side seam: "100% / Pure Wool"; "Professionally / Dry Clean / Low Moisture / Steam Press"
Skirt. Calf length, with narrow waistband. Knife pleated, with side zipper and button. Unlined. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc501315/
Dress of black cotton net embroidered with red, white, tan, brown, green and gold floral designs. Gathered scooped neckline interlaced with narrow, pale green silk grosgrain ribbon and scalloped and embroidered organdy ruffling, which is also used at wrist, waist, hip line and hem. Gathered ankle-length skirt. Left side zipper with hook & eye on lining and snaps on outer net layer. Skirt has additional under layer of black net. Bodice and skirt lined with silk chiffon; black grosgrain ribbon petersham with hook & eye at waist.
Designer's label at center back waist: "Christian Dior / Paris / Made In France / Printemps-Ete 1978" and stamped "0I0052"
Label attached at base of designer's label: "Made In France"
Neiman Marcus size and content label attached at bottom of previous two labels. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc503757/
- Ensemble - Blouse and Skirt
Two-piece ensemble of black satin.
Blouse of wrap style, with surplice neckline squared at across back and front to collar bones, plunging into a V at front, and with long sleeves. Neckline, hem, and sleeves edged in 2" wide band of trapunto quilting work consisting of 6 rows of stitching. Long sleeves have 3" zippers at cuffs. 1-inch wide attached belt ties in back. Unlined.
No labels in bodice.
Matching skirt. Black, below-knee length, with narrow waistband into which skirt is gathered. Left side zipper, with hooks and eyes at waistband. Unlined.
Inside Label, typewritten on cloth tape: " JUPE 43 011020 NEIMAN MARCUS" or possibly "JUPE 43 OTTO 20 NEIMAN MARCUS" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc503812/
Choker of satin and feathers. Neck band of 1 1/2" double faced black satin ribbon with double hooks at ends. At center is rosette of hackle and guinea feathers in black, brownish, and white spots.
Tag sewn to one end of ribbon stating "Made in France", Style/model "Uo 28", color "Black, and other notes that are illegible.
Made to go with an evening dress by Ungaro. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc305410/
Pairs of pumps of green reptile patchwork. The shoes are designed with a pointed toe, and uppers made of triangular sections of dyed reptile pieced together. The sections are dyed in various shades of greens and browns. The throat has an extending triangular section which is oriented to point towards the wearer's leg. The low, chunky heels are covered with the same skin, and taper to base.
Designer's label inside: "SusanBennisWarrenEdwards"
Stamped inside: "4514 Zig-Zag 7"
Stamped on sole: "Designed by / Susan / Bennis / Warren / Edwards / Hand Made / In Itayl / 7" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc87037/
- Ensemble - Dress and Coat
Dress and coat of peacock feathers. The short, sleeveless dress is entirely covered with peacock breast feathers, accented with a 1" band of blue cording and chenille trim at neckline and with blue cord spaghetti straps. It is fully lined with navy polyester. The long, sleeveless coat is covered with peacock herl / flue feathers. It has a round neckline, and no closure.
These pieces are part of a larger ensemble, consisting of a total of 9 pieces decorated with peacock and/or golden pheasant feathers.
Worn to the Emmy Awards ceremony in Los Angeles, California, April 1976. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30293/
Hat of rust wool felt with rolled, tubular shaped brim. Style sometime referred to as "bumper hat". Unlined with orange grosgrain headband.
Crown stamped: "100% Wool / 'Esccello' / Geo. W. Bollman & Co., Inc"
Designer's label on inside headband: "Frank's Girl / Designed by / Frank Olive / New York" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc283719/
- Scarf Hat
Hat formed of a printed scarf. The hat is constructed to look as a scarf that has been tied around the wearer's head, with long trailing ends at back. The under-structure is a domed crown of stiffened black mesh overlaid with the printed scarf, which has a navy blue ground, white stars, and gold American eagles. The hat has an inner pink grosgrain ribbon hatband.
Designer's label: "Frank Olive / New York" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286907/
- Belly Dancer's Costume - Banjara Peoples of India
Belly Dancer's Costume - Banjara Peoples of India
A) Choli (top) - Sleeved, backless top. Deep V-neckline. Short sleeves. Patchwork, using various types, colors, and patterns of fabric. Panels at sides, bottom, and upper breasts/lower front shoulders of rows of various sized mirrors framed in different color stitching. Ties in back. Lined in various fabrics.
B) Ghaghra (skirt) - Ankle-length skirt made of horizontal bands of various fabrics. From top: Green waistband; Yellow band with red stitched "X" forms; Wide band of three rows of small circular mirrors framed in various colors of cloth, the bands divided by a blue and an orange stripe of cloth with stitched "X" forms; Thin green band with red stitches; Very thin white strip; Pink stripe with center band of yellow/green running across it; Narrow band of various-colored fabric in slightly wavy profile; Black band with center band of various color stitching; White crenelated band; purple band; Wide green section with center wide red stripe with yellow borders; Wide hem with various embroidered bands and stitching. Lined in red fabric with light yellow printed paisley design. Slit at side, tie at waistband.
C) Necklace. Yarn/cord necklace. Ball/loop closure at back. Back part of necklace covered with tightly wound spiral of tiny red/purple beads. Necklace has 7 pendants of graduated sizes composed of silver-colored coins with attached loops and with attached hanging loops from which are suspended small silver spheres. Between each coin pendant is a tubular silver spacer bead. Coins are from India, of several denominations, one dated 1984, one dated 1985, others with dates obscured. No maker's marks or hallmarks visible. Measurements: 21 3/4" long
D) Necklace. Long, narrow corded/twined black necklace with central openwork beaded "zig-zag" line of tiny beads in groups of red, yellow, green, red, blue, green, and orange, with white beads at the "points" of the zig zags. Attached to lower edge of necklace is a "fringe" of various coins mounted with silver rectangular bars. Coins are from Afghanistan (20th century), Pakistan (dated 1981 and 1982), and Iran (reign of Shah Muhammad Reza Pahlavi, from 1970's). No maker's marks or hallmarks visible. Measurements: 21 3/4" long
Not shown in photographs are:
E) Upper-arm band of maroon cotton/linen. Rectangular, with pink, green, and gold embroidery and 4 large circular mirror appliques with orange, green, and yellow borders along length, and two small circular mirrors with orange borders at one end. 7 large cast silver-colored metal pendant beads along lower edge. Cloth tie at each corner. 3 1/4" wide x 12 3/4" long. No labels or tags.
F) Upper-arm band of maroon cotton/linen. Rectangular, with pink, green, and gold embroidery and 4 large circular mirror appliques with orange, green, and yellow borders along length, and two small circular mirrors with orange borders at one end. 7 large cast silver-colored metal openwork triangular pendants along lower edge. Cloth tie at each corner. 3 1/4" wide x 12 3/4" long. No labels or tags. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc277035/
- Boots - Uzbekistan - Surxondaryo Province - Boysun Peoples Festival Outfit
Boots. Red cotton(?) uppers embroidered with circular/sun designs and scrolls in green, yellow, red, blue, pink, white. Scattered silver "sequins" which are small strips of silver folded through fabric. Red leather soles. Edged in black. Lined in dark red leather. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc461880/
- Day Dress
Day dress of black, blue, gray and yellow nylon jersey knit. Elbow length, set-in sleeves are black with banded cuffs in gold, yellow, blue and black pattern. Rounded, banded neckline. Knee length. Natural waistline is slightly gathered at sides and back. Center back zipper with hook & eye. Unlined.
Signed "Paganne" in pattern of dress.
Designer's label at neckline to left of zipper: "Paganne Ltd. / by Gene Berk -8-"
Care label at neckline to right of zipper. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc503787/
Evening dress of pale yellow silk chiffon with bead detailing. V-neckline in front creating the halter, with pieces draped from halter down and out to sides. The entire bodice is finely pleated and gathered, and has beaded panels which creates an empire waist. The beaded panels vary from narrow at center front to wide at sides, and meet at center back. The beading is white and silver beaded horizontal stripes on a mauve background. The skirt is formed by the chiffon being gathered into the beaded panels in many layers and falling to the floor. Dress has a matching lining and has a zipper down center back with hook-and-eye closures at top of zipper and at halter.
Label in gown: "Victoria Royal Ltd. / Made In / British Crown Colony / of / Hong Kong". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30333/
- Earrings - Banjara Festival Attire
Earrings. Pair of earrings for pierced ears. Each earring is composed of an inner and outer circular hoop. A single flat silver pendant is suspended within the inner hoop, while a fringe of 7 pendants of a bugle bead and a silver sphere hang from the inner hoop. From the outer hoop hang a long triangular pendant fringe of 13 graduated strands with bugle beads, terminating in flat silver teardrop forms. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc461874/
- Earrings - Kutchi Group, Pashtun Peoples, Afghanistan.
Earrings. Pair of heavy pendant earrings of silver-colored metal and glass. Bail loops suspend a roughly semi-circular silver plate with collet-set glass sapphires, emeralds, and rubies. From lower edge of plate are suspended small clusters of flat silver shapes and small spheres.
Earrings do not match exactly. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc461840/
- Earrings - Rabari Festival Attire
Silver earrings. Hook fasteners attached to triangular plaques set with red or red and green glass circles. Below plaques are suspended hemispherical filigree pieces with fringe of wrapped wire and silver spheres. One earring with 5 red stones, one empty collet, the other earring with 4 red and 2 green stones. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc461804/
- Earrings - Rabari Festival Attire
Silver earrings. Wire hook fasteners attached to oval collet containing a large oval dark blue glass(?) cabochon stone. Below stone is suspended a filigree hemisphere with dense fringe of silver shaped plaques and spheres. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc461862/
- Ensemble - Blouse and Skirt
Ensemble in black silk crepe with diagonal "scratch print" in green, consisting of:
Tunic style top. Below-hip length, with asymmetrical neckline. Long flaring dolman bottom sleeves. Cut on bias. Unlined. Belted with tie sash of same fabric, with pointed ends and lingerie hem.
Skirt. Midi length, with elastic waist and zipper closing on diagonal at left side toward back. Unlined. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc501368/
- Ensemble - Blouse and Slacks
A) Blouse of multicolored polyester in a geometric design. "Midriff scarf blouse" style, with wide elastic neckline, cropped waist, and wide band of elastic smocking to create waistband below bust. Lower edge with ruffle effect. Sleeves are triangular in shape, forming oversized wings that flow as wearer moves.
B) Slacks of off-white cotton or cotton/polyester blend. Full-length, with wide, slightly flaring legs and pronounced cuffs. Wide waistband, with cf zipper and two snaps at waistband. Wide belt-loops. Unlined.
Handwritten inside: "M B Walker F" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc501379/
- Ensemble - Egyptian Traditional Ensemble
A) Galabeya. Full-length galabeya of black cotton, with rounded neckline cut at base to for a shallow "V". Caftan style, with long sleeves and slit from hem upwards on right side. Front of galabeya with embroidered and applique decoration. Around neck and front of bodice is floral decoration and scrolls in gold, greens, red, and blue, and central shield-shaped gold satin applique piece with embroidered scroll work in gold and blue. Lower part of galabeya with matching, but inverted similar gold satin appliques with embroidered scrolls, and embroidered floral forms. Long sleeves with thin rectangular embroidered gold bands along wrist. Unlined.
B) Head Scarf. Rectangle of fine red fabric, lower edge scalloped. Upper edge with sewn border incorporating spaced gold cylindrical beads. Ends of scarf and scalloped area of lower edge with thin crocheted/sewn band with spaced gold tear-drop beads and simulated gold coins. Applied to center of scarf are two bands of red crocheted/knitted net with gold spherical beads and pendant simulated gold coins. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc277038/
- Ensemble - Nubian Traditional Ensemble
A) Jirjara robe (Nubian-style young woman's galabeyah) of sheer black machine-made lace with scattered "tendrils" of various sized dots all-over which extend from hem upwards. Full-length, with rounded neckline and slight "V" at front. Full-length sleeves flaring to wrist.
B) Under-dress of white cotton embroidered with ancient Egyptian-inspired motifs, including lotus blossoms. Full-length, with rounded neckline with small "V" at front. Neckline edged with green embroidery. Short sleeves edged with similar green embroidery, as are the short slits from the hem upwards. "Bib" at front of upper part of dress with green, yellow, blue, red, and pink embroidery of stylized lotus, scrolls, border lines, etc. Front of skirt with large embroidered motif of lotus(?) growing from bowl, with other blossoms around, in same colors. Back is plain. Unlined.
C) Head scarf of very fine black fabric. Triangular in shape, with edging of simulated gold-colored coins.
With suite of costume jewelery of gold-colored metal hung with faux coins, consisting of:
1) Necklace. Simple gold chain suspending triangular "net" of gold quaterfoil-shaped links hung with tiers of faux coins. Simple hook fastener. "Cascade" style.
2) Headpiece (?). Formed of two linked triangles of net with 6-lobed openwork links, hung with tiers of faux coins. At center point is large heart-shaped pendant hung with fringe of coins on short beaded strands.
3) Earrings. Pair. Simple hook suspends horizontal bar from which hangs a triangular "cascade" of tiers of faux gold coins hung on a net of quatrefoil-shaped links.
4) Bracelet. Cuff-style openwork wire bracelet with fringe of tiny spherical bells.
5) Bracelet. Cuff-style bracelet of openwork metal hung with a triangular "cascade" of tiers of faux gold coins hung on a net of quatrefoil-shaped links. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc277151/
- Festival Attire - Akha Hill Tribe
Festival ensemble, Akha Hill Tribe, Thailand.
a) Jacket/bodice. Jacket or bodice of black cotton, waist-length, with no collar, shaped neckline, and front opening with no closures. On right side of bodice at upper breast/collarbone is applied panel/section which forms edge of opening. Panel has "zig-zag" effect of three points created by patchwork of various printed fabrics and applied thin bands. Long sleeves with blue fabric sewn at ends to create cuffs. At back, "hanging" from collar is patchwork panel of patterned cloths shaped as a trapezoid with curved long side. Primarily lined in blue cloth with white geometric/linear designs, part of embroidery panel at front lined with a printed brown fabric with small black/yellow geometric design. (zig-zag panel at front)
b) Pants. Pants of black cotton embellished with multicolored embroidery. Full-length depending on height of wearer. Wide plain waistband in front, elasticized section at back, and with attached string belt at side which has pom-pom terminals. At front, from waistband, are two "flaps" over upper legs, one forming a pocket with wide decorative band at top consisting of red strips of fabric on dark blue fabric band. The second flap has wide horizontal band of embroidered fabric, with bands of diamonds, squares, "x" shapes, etc. in yellow, blue, white, black, etc. on primarily orange ground. Cuffs of pants, at outer side of each leg, has rectangular applied panels of cross-stitch embroidered fabric in reddish, white, and mustard, with applied machine-woven decorative ribbon with pink squares and blue shapes. Unlined. No labels or tags in garment.
c) Hat. Black with beading and silver and shells, with red decorations and pendant parts
d) Belt. Black cotton(?) belt formed as a rectangle, upper and side edges straight, lower edge gently scalloped to form points at center front and at sides. Belt is edged with border of small blue/green, brownish/tan seeds, with two horizontal bands of same seeds running across belt. Between bands of seeds are bands of silver-colored cabochon discs. Just above each point is a star-burst made of oval white beads/seeds, colored beads, and a cowrie(?) shell. From each point hangs 3 beaded pendants with a bell at end of each. Belt secures with black ties. No labels or tags. ca. 35 1/2" long w/out ties; 5" wide w/out fringe/pendants.
e & f) Over-sleeves. Detachable sleeves formed as two 15 1/2" long fabric cylinders, slightly wider at top than cuff, which slide over sleeves of jacket. The cylinders are made of horizontal bands of different woven patterned fabrics of primarily pinks with green, white, and orange decorations, sewn together, with alternating bands of red cloth with applied rick-rack in blue, white, green, yellow, pink, etc., each with silver threading. Sleeves are lined with a printed white fabric with blue linear stripe/band designs. No labels or tags in garment.
g) Bag of black cotton, embellished with embroidery, bead-work, silver discs, and a single coin. Long black cotton strap. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc277094/
A) Jeogori (Jacket) of white and red damask patterned with floral motifs. Short, cropped white damask top with deep V neckline lined in red damask. Long sleeves, widening towards fore-arm and then curved to wrist. Under-arm area and cuff of the red damask. Center front opening secured with one hidden snap and two long ties of red damask. Lined in thin white fabric.
No labels in garment.
B) Chima (Skirt) of red damask matching the Jeogori. Full-length, wrap-style garment. Thin white straps to go over shoulders support wide upper band into which the body of the skirt is gathered. Ties at back with ties of red damask. Lined in dark red fabric.
No labels in garment. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc277082/
Hat of black wool felt with attached scarf of black jersey wool. Wide, slightly asymmetrical brim. Domed crown with narrow headband of same which crosses in back and trails to edge of brim. Unlined with black grosgrain ribbon inner headband.
Stamp on inside crown: "Made in Poland / Tally-Ho / Pollak Imp Ex Corp / 100% Wool"
Retailer's label on inside headband: "Saks Fifth Avenue" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286826/
- Necklace - Rabari Festival Attire
Necklace. "Bib" style necklace with 4-strand black yarn necklace with silver slide at back. Front bib of silver beads mounted in vertical bands into a "fan" form, from which hang a fringe of 11 polished cowrie(?) shells, with a further fringe of pendant chains and spheres hanging from each shell. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc461823/
- Necklace - Turkmenistan Festival Outfit
Necklace. Green cloth necklace, edged with black cloth tape and embellished with spaced stamped silver roundels. Button/buttonhole clasp. The necklace supports a massive silver pendant formed as a large triangle set with oval red glass cabochons, between two silver "club" shapes. Below the triangle and clubs is a horizontal silver square tube set with oval red cabochons, below which are four large inverted stylized "fleur-dis-lys" forms, set with oval cabochons. From all lower parts hang long chains and large bells. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc461847/
- Necklace - Turkmenistan Festival Outfit
Necklace. Bead necklace of red and blue glass(?) beads strung on white cord. From necklace, via 3 large loops, is suspended a large horizontal silver-colored tube, with bands of flattened/soldered wire decoration. From lower edge of tube hang pendants of flat silver shapes, some small rectangular, some larger "bird shaped", each set with a red or green stone. From these pendants hand further chains and oval plaques. Tube opens at one end, is empty. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc461802/
- Necklace - Uzbekistan - Surxondaryo Province - Boysun Peoples Festival Outfit
Necklace of openwork beading. Wide straps with diamond shapes of yellow/orange with inner sections of blues and yellows against grounds of green, red, blue, and orange. Large central section formed as a white beaded diamond shape containing concentric diamonds of green and red. Blue beaded fringe at bottom ending in red and white "flowerheads" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc461844/
- Necklace - Uzbekistan - Surxondaryo Province - Boysun Peoples Festival Outfit
Bead Necklace. "Bib" style, with wide main portion of latticed clear beads overlaid with a field of shell/mother of pearl buttons. Vertical strands of beads along top, attaching to choker band with button clasp. The bib has a lower band of white, black, etc. openwork beading, then strands of beaded fringe in clear, green, yellow, blue, black, red, etc. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc461881/
- Necklace - Uzbekistan - Surxondaryo Province - Boysun Peoples Festival Outfit
Bead Necklace. "choker" style bead necklace composed of sections of orange and black horizontal strands interspersed with diamond-shaped motifs of white, orange, green, yellow, and reddish brown. Below the main section is a "fringe, consisting of white beads forming a narrow net, then bands of red and orange, then fringe of blue, yellow, black, white, red, green, and ending in shells, glass beads, etc. Large circular button clasp. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc461789/
- Pillbox Hat
Pillbox hat of black jersey. The cylindrical crown has a flat, slightly recessed top, and bands of black silk ribbon decoration applied horizontally around sides. Upper and lower bands are of plain layered ribbon forming slightly molded bands, while central band is of twisted/folded/worked ribbon creating a dimensional braided pattern. Hat is lined in black satin, with inner black grosgrain ribbon hatband and a single small faux turtle shell comb to help secure it to wearer's head.
Designer's label: "Givenchy / Paris" "Made in / France" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc305376/
Pumps of pink, yellow, orange, and white plaid synthetic fabric. The shoes have rounded toes and a 2" high square chunky heel. On top of each shoe, across instep/vamp, are two self fabric covered martial cords twisted together with gold ends.
Designer label: "Lily Shoes / Walk with Comfort" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc115028/
Pair of pumps of pale gray/green satin. Plain uppers with applied oval panel of multicolored floral brocade simulating embroidery at vamp, within a metal twist/rope frame, as a decorative buckle. Low modified Louis heel covered in same fabric.
Brand stamp: "Pietro / Last"
Retailer's label: "Neiman Marcus"
Handwritten inside: "7B 4872 / 699320A" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114964/