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UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Texas Fashion Collection
Hatlet of red beads. Crown of the hatlet is composed of an irregular skullcap of stiffened red mesh covered with red beads. Set atop the the hatlet are three large e-dimentional "bow" shapes composed of the red beads. The hatlet has a red net veil. Under the skullcap are attached two small plastic combs to secure the hatlet to wearer's head.
Designer's Label: "Bes-Ben / Made in Chicago"
Gift of Mrs. John M. (Patricia) Wyle.
Worn by Mrs. Joseph M. Finn of Chicago, Illinois. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc38097/
- Moccasin Pumps
Pair of "Moccasin Pumps" of cream leather. The shoes are designed with a squared toe, and have the look of moccasins and pumps. Instep with extending tongue of same leather, with wide band of same crossing instep and securing on outside with a "V" shape of gold-colored metal. Low, square block heel.
Maker's label stamped inside: "Veneziano Inc / Made in Italy"
Stamped inside: "35 8899" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc87015/
- D'Orsay Pumps
Pair of D'Orsay pumps of pink leather. The shoes are designed as modified open-toe D'Orsay pumps, with cut-away sides. Across instep are three wide leather bands; sides of shoe are cut away on a curve which comes up and creates the back of the shoe. The high heel is covered with the same leather, and tapers slightly to base.
Designer's label: "design by / Evins"
Retailer's label: "Neiman Marcus"
Handwritten inside: "7 1/2 B Zelda / 1224-612 / 507 641"
- Platform Lace-Up Sandals
Pair of platform sandals. Silver leather covered black plastic(?) sole with silver metal lace and cords. 4" spike set-back heel. Marked in relief on sole of each shoe: "Made in France".
Anonymous gift to the Texas Fashion Collection. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30024/
- Platform Pumps
Pair of platform pumps of yellow leather. Designed with a squared toe, the uppers, platform, and heel are all covered in yellow leather. The high heel tapers slightly to base.
Retailer's/Brand label: "Neiman-Marcus / Nonesuch"
Handwritten inside: (partly illegible) "H?? AA / 7?? 12030 1 73 / ?? 77 712"
- Platform Pumps
Pair of platform pumps of orange/brown suede. The toebox, and entire upper of the shoes are of orange/brown suede, with a tongue attached at each side to the rest of the toebox by a band of elastic. The toebox rests on a thick platform covered with the same suede. The thick, chunky heel is also covered with the same suede.
Stamped in gold inside shoe: "Back Street" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc87022/
- Platform Sandals
Pair of platform sandals. Shoes have gold kid leather upper, the vamp knotted. Black patent leather covered soles and heels. 4 1/4" high block-style set-back heel.
Written on inside of back strap on each shoe: "5 1/2 B 342440". Stamped on each shoe: "Charles Jourdan / Paris" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30172/
Pair of deep wine red leather pumps. Shoes have a V-throat on vamp and are edged with thin bands of taupe leather around vamp and along outside panel ending in a triangular shape. 3 1/2" Continental set-back heel almost a stiletto, but wider and more oval in cross-section.
Stamped in each shoe: "Charles Jourdan / Paris" and "Orient".
Stamped inside each heel: "39 B / 63586 E".
Stamped on sole: "Leather / Leder / Cuir / Made in / France" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30220/
Pumps of red-orange leather. The shoes have a squared toe, a very wide "Mary-Jane" style strap over the instep which fastens with an over-sized rectangular gold buckle on outside of foot, and a modified "bell bottom" or Louis style 2 3/4" heel.
Designer label: "Town & Country* / Shoes / *TM REG" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc87090/
Pair of pumps of pale pink calf leather. Designed with a rounded toe, the shoe has a double-ruffle buckle of same leather across instep. Low, 1 1/2" modified Louis heel.
Maker's mark inside: "Silvia of Fiorentina / Made in Italy"
Retailer's label inside: "Marie Leavell"
Handwritten inside: "e 346 B i M B A" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc87009/
Pair of pumps of black faille. The shoes are designed with rounded toe and plain uppers. At top of vamp is large circular plaque of black faille edged in rhinestones and with rhinestone circular ornament at lower edge. Modified Louis heel.
Designer's label inside: "Charles Jourdan / Paris"
Pair of pumps of cream lizard skin. The shoes are designed with a slightly squared-off toe. The uppers are of cream lizard/reptile, and feature cream leather stitching running lengthwise up center of instep/toebox, and vertically up the back of the heel. The upper is also edged with thin piping of cream leather. Thick, chunky heel, flaring slightly to base.
Designer's marks inside: "Merli / Bologna" and "Hand Sewn / Made in Italy"
Retailer's marks inside: "Made in Italy for / Neiman-Marcus"
Other marks handwritten inside: "Marcus 3672 / 7 1/2 B" and "Houston II 15" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114943/
Women's high heel pumps of yellow patent leather. Designed with squared toe with plain uppers, the 1 1/2" high black patent leather heels have an inlay of concentric rectangles of alternating navy blue, green, orange, and red leather. Lined in cream leather.
Designer Label (Left shoe): "Herbert Levine"
Retailer's Label (Right shoe): "Amen Wardy / El Paso, Texas"
Handwritten notation inside shoe: "7 1/2 M / 16887" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc115009/
Pair of pumps of cream silk with black polka-dots. Shoe has pointed toe, and large "pom-pom" rosette at center of vamp made of loops of same fabric. Stiletto heel covered in same fabric.
Designer's label stamped inside: "Designed by / Roger Vivier / Paris"
Retailer's label stamped inside: "Neiman-Marcus"
Handwritten inside: "8aaa / 2-78134w / 1511" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114774/
Pair of woman's pumps of black leather and black patent leather. Designed as spectator pumps with a rounded toe, the toebox and the heels are of black patent leather, piped at edge with thin band of white leather. The rest of the upper is of black leather. The 2 1/4" high heel is covered in black patent leather.
Designer's label stamped in left shoe: "Herbert Levine"
Retailer's label stamped in right shoe: "Amen Wardy / El Paso Texas"
Handwritten inside shoe: "7 1/2 M / 30028" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc115006/
Pair of woman's pumps of black leather textured to imitate alligator. Designed with a somewhat squared toe, the vamp has scalloped upper edge trimmed with thin gold band. Heel with same texture, tapering to base.
Designer's label stamped inside: "Delman / Los Angeles / London / Paris" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc87060/
Pair of woman's shoes of pearlized plastic fabric. Designed with a squared toe, the shoes are lined in silver leather, and have square heels covered in same silver leather.
Designer's label in left shoe: "Herbert Levine"
Retailer's label in right shoe: "Amen Wardy / El Paso Texas"
Handwritten note inside shoe: "7 1/2 M / 26753" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc277067/
Pair of pumps of pink pearlized leather. Designed with a squared toe and plain upper, the shoes have a large, dimensional rosette at vamp made of the same leather. The heel is covered in same leather, and is of a modified Louis style.
Brand stamp inside: "Mademoiselle / The Fashion Shoe"
Retailer's label inside: "Neiman-Marcus"
Handwritten inside: "78993 7 B / 9223 4M 809 / 16"
Also stamped: "Concert / Last"
Pair of pumps of black patent leather. Designed with squared-off toes, the plain uppers have slight stitching detail around upper edge. The low heels are of red leather with applied scattered gold metal stars in two sizes.
Maker's label: "Herbert Levine"
Retailer's label: "Amen Wardy / El Paso Texas"
Handwritten inside: "8 M / 12400"
Pair of heeled pumps of red calf leather. Designed with squared toes, the uppers are constructed to create a high instep tongue with red elastic at sides, and a red leather band across instep and tongue, secured with a small buckle covered with same leather. The cylindrical heel is covered by same red leather.
Maker's label inside: "Created by / Navaton / Made in Spain"
Stamped inside: "500 772 6 1/2" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc87042/
Pair of pumps of textured tan suede. The shoes are designed with a rounded toe, the uppers of a textured suede with the appearance of ostrich. Around edge of upper is thin stitched edge of golden tan leather. Stacked brown heel tapers to base.
Stamped inside: "Amalfi / by / Rangoni / Made in Italy"; "Campi"
Pair of pumps of black leather and leopard skin. Designed with square toes, the shoes have black leather uppers and a 2" wide rectangular band of leopard skin extending from toe to instep, forming a tongue. Squared heel is covered with black leather, and tapers to base.
Designer's label inside: "Herbert Levine"
Written inside: "9a / 32701 / 11-857" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc115003/
Pair of heeled pumps of very dark brown polished kid leather. Designed with slightly pointed toes, the plain vamps are enhanced by flat tailored bows of same leather. Heel covered with same leather, tapering to base.
Designer's label: "Salvatore / Ferragamo / Florence / Italy"
Stamped on sole: "Made in Italy"
Handwritten inside: "K1278 4 1/2 B / 784"
Pair of pumps of deep red patent leather. Designed with squared toes, the vamp is enhanced with large applied black silk rosette. Heel of same red patent leather, tapering to base.
Retailer's label: "Saks Fifth Avenue / Fenton Last"
Handwritten inside: "7B / 53992 / B1371H"
Pair of heeled pumps of green suede. Designed with slightly rounded, almost square toe, the uppers are sewn "loafer style", with pronounced stitching creating "tongue" at top. Across instep is gilt brass Gucci "horse bit" with central red enameled plaque. Chunky heel covered in black leather, tapering slightly to base.
Designer's label: "Gucci / Made in Italy"
Stamped on sole: "Gucci / Made in Italy" and "37 B"
Pair of pumps of black patent leather. Designed with a square toe, the vamps are embelished with an arched tongue shape enhanced with three concentric arches of white, tan, and beige patent leather, forming a rainbow shape. Somewhat chunky square heel which tapers to base.
Designer's label: "Eugenia of Florence / Expressly for / Lou Lattimore"
Retailer's label: "Made in Italy / Expressly for / Lou Lattimore"
Handwritten inside: "LL 7B F973 / 1"
Pair of heeled sandals of green kid leather. The rounded-toe shoes have a slight platform, and are constructed with groups of straps crossing from side to side on diagonals. One strap extends behind heel, and is secured with small buckle. Thick heel covered with same leather, and tapers slightly to base.
Designer's label: "Andrea Pfister / Paris / Made in Italy"
Logo on sole: "A / Made in Italy" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114951/
- T-Shirt - Che Guevara
T-shirt of white cotton, having short sleeves and a rounded neckline, which is printed with an artistic rendering of a portrait of Che Guevara, arranged as large main central portrait in black, surrounded by four smaller renditions in pale gray.
Acquired by the donor in Mexico City in 1971 from a vendor in the Mexico City Metro.
Ernesto "Che" Guevara (b. June 14, 1928 in Rosario, Argentina - d. La Higuera, Bolivia, October 9, 1967) commonly known as El Che or simply Che, was an Argentine Marxist revolutionary, physician, author, intellectual, guerrilla leader, diplomat, military theorist, and major figure of the Cuban Revolution. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30323/
Shoes of turquoise suede; 2 1/2" stacked heel; heel has stripes of green, yellow, and red; strap around front of ankle; bulbous toe; red, green and yellow curved suede pieces appliqued on vamp.
Brand label: "Nonesuch"
Retailer label: "Neiman-Marcus" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc87069/
Pair of woman's shoes of dull yellow/beige patent leather. Designed with square toes, the shoes have a large black patent leather bow across vamp, with oval brass buckle. The 2" high heels taper slightly to base, and are covered in black patent leather.
Stamped inside each shoe: "Magli / Bologna / Made in Italy"
Stamped inside shoe: "Z 293 78"
Stamped on sole: "Made in Italy"; "7 / 1/2 / M"
Shoes of polished brown leather. Designed with slightly rounded toe, the plain uppers have rounded throat and single wide sabot-style strap across instep with self buckle. Low, chunky heel tapers to base.
Stamped inside: "Herbert Levine"
Handwritten inside: "8 1/2 C / E1406" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114997/
Pair of shoes of mottled brown and black polished leather. Designed with squared toes, the shoes are brown along the sides, with black and lighter tan lines running from toe to instep. Across instep is applied plaque of same leather with scrolling ends. Squarish heel, which tapers slightly to base.
Designer's label: "Herbert Levine"
Retailer's label: "Neiman-Marcus"
Handwritten inside: "6a / 14176 / 2.4243.8L" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114949/
- Skirt Suit
Chanel-style woman's two piece suit with blouse.
a)Jacket of novelty knit slub in pink and blue ombre tone. Silk blend fabric. Styled with high, rounded extended neckline and center front opening with no method of closure. Padded shoulders. Long, fitted sleeves with one button mock slit closure at wrist. Button is goldtone, round, with half button incised lines. Short, straight bodice with two small patch pockets at hip with one button trim. Trimmed at all edges with blue and pink band. Partially lined with peach crepe at center front edge, and plain weave lining fabric at back.
Label: "Eres / Beverly Hills"
b) Skirt of matching color tones of slub yarn in plain weave. Silk blend fabric. Straight cut with fitted waistband. Deep slit at lower front seam. Trimmed at waistband with blue and pink band. Center back zipper closure with two hooks at waistband. Fully lined in peach crepe.
Label at waistband: "Eres / Beverly Hills"
Size tag: "8"
c) Blouse of blue silk with vertical stripes. Standing band collar with double ruffle and tie. Center front opening with seven square, glass buttons and hook & eye at collar. Long fitted sleeves with one button, ruffled band cuff. Straight hemline.
Label at neckline: "Eres / Beverly Hills" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc283766/
- Skirt Suit
Suit of navy blue wool with window pane plaid in white.
a) Jacket of navy blue wool in window pane plaid in white. Double breasted with circular, blue buttons. Notched collar. Long sleeves. Fully lined in navy silk.
Designer's label at back neckline: "Givenchy / Made in France"
(b) Skirt of same fabric. Thigh down is pleated. Upper skirt is lined in navy silk. Left side zipper.
(c) White blouse of heavy silk. Neck has extra fabric to tie a bow or knot. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc283742/
Pair of slippers of red silk and gold metallic brocade. The shoes are designed with pointed toes, and a panel of gold leather that extends from below the throat, up and over the instep, and almost to the instep, sewn down, and echoing the point of the toes. Crossed with a gold cord bow with large rhinestones set at each end. Almost flats, the shoes have low, carved heels with a profile similar to a compacted Louis heel.
Brand stamp: "Gustinettes / Trade Mark"
Stamped inside: "6 1/2M 52770"
Maxi paper bridesmaid dress of Reemay spun polyester "paper". The long dress is printed with a pattern of impressionistic flowers in greens, pink, blues and purples on a yellow ground. It has a high, rounded neckline with no collar, and opens with a zipper at center back from collar to just above waist. The long, fitted sleeves have a thin band at cuff which extends to be tied into a bow. Empire waistline, from which extend box pleats. The dress appears to have a full, floor-length skirt, but the skirt is actually divided, forming pant legs.
No designer labels in garment, but original tag is preserved with it:
Obverse: "'Wear-a-while'* / Fashions / with / Reemay [trademark symbol] / Du Pont's Fabulous / New 100% Spun Bonded Polyester / DuPont Reemay brings an entirely new quality to 'conven- / ience fashions'. It has an unusual surface appearance, it / is strong and it is colorfast. Garments of Reemay may be / washed a few times and need no ironing if you use / normal wash-and-wear procedures / DHJ Industries Inc. / [trademark symbol] Registered Du Pont Trademark / * Trademark of / DHJ Industries, Inc."
Reverse: "Du Pont / Reemay [trademark symbol] / 100% Spunbonded polyester / flame-retandant finish / comfortable -- because it 'breathes' / retains its body and shape -- long wearing / dries quickly -- stays smooth - needs no ironing / it's strong - won't fray, unravel, split, tear / swirl pattern construction gives it a unique / appearance / to shorten: just cut with scissors ... garment won't unravel! / Reemay [trademark symbol] / is processed, furnished and dis- / tributed by DHJ Industries Inc. / 16 E. 34th St., N.Y., N.Y."
The Texas Fashion Collection holds two identical examples of this dress, from the same donor. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30330/
Dress of brown/beige coffee-colored wool. The short, A-line dress with shallow boat-neckline, short, cap-sleeves. Front and back of dress with diamond-shaped motif created by slot seams with cream background/under layer. Similar seaming across top of sleeves and joining diamond motifs around sides. Center back zipper with hook-and-eye at neckline. Lined in off-white silk(?).
Designer's label: "Jean Marie Armand / Paris / Made in France"
Retailer's label: "Made in France especially for / Neiman-Marcus" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286912/
Dress made of multiple fabrics including velvet, cotton, and silk in red, green, brown, blue, and orange multicolored floral and Indian prints, in a patchwork of vertical strips with metallic thread trim. Applied throughout are decorative metallic ovals. The dress is full length, with a flared skirt, long bell sleeves, and a low square neckline. Unlined. Zipper at center back extending from neckline to just below waist, with a single hook-and-loop at neckline.
Label sewn to inside back to left of zipper: "Sant'Angelo". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc283760/
- Ensemble - Bodystocking, Mini-Skirt and Belt
Ensemble consisting of three pieces. Full-length bodystocking is of heavy ivory wool knit, in a ribbed pattern running vertically throughout body and legs, and horizontally around arms. The garment has a turtle-neck and wide flaring cuffs at legs. Center back zipper opening from top of turtle-neck to mid-back. The black double knit wool micro-mini-skirt has four over-sized belt loops with pointed ends, and center back zipper closure. The ensemble includes a wide black patent-leather belt which secures with concealed snaps.
Bodystocking has two labels. Designer's label inside at back near zipper: "Pierre Cardin / Paris New York"; Material/size label on opposite side: "100% / Wool / L"
The skirt has no labels. The belt is stamped on reverse: "12 1851"
From the Fall 1969/1970 season. Records indicate that the ensemble was originally offered in the Maisonette Room of Neiman-Marcus. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30084/
Hat of ivory leather. Narrow brim curves up in back and down in front. High cylindrical crown. Entire hat has horizontal top stitching with exception of narrow hatband. Lined in pink silk with white grosgrain ribbon inner headband.
Designer's label: "Yves Saint Laurent / Paris Chicago"
Size tag at left of designer's label: "22" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc305349/
Pillbox style hat covered with blue-green-blackish iridescent coque feathers. Trim of brown horsehair and high standing feathers of self from center of crown. Brown felt interior crown with brown grosgrain ribbon inner headband. Two combs at sides for securing hat to wearer's head.
Retailer's label: "Titche's / Dallas" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc305371/
- Patchwork Dress
Dress made of multiple fabrics including velvet, cotton, and silk in red, green, brown, blue, and orange multi-colored floral and Indian prints, in a patchwork of vertical strips with metallic thread trim. Applied throughout are decorative metallic ovals. The dress is full length, with a flared skirt, long bell sleeves, and a low square neckline. Unlined. Zipper at center back extending from neckline to just below waist, with a single hook-and-loop at neckline.
Label sewn to inside back to left of zipper: "Sant'Angelo".
Worn by singer Lena Horne (1917-2010). digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30289/
No Description digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc277019/
Pair of brown suede boots. Almost knee-high, the boots are constructed as slip-on rounded-toe shoes or moccasins with added segments on the quarter to create the length of the boots. At the top, the suede of the boots is folded over outwards forming a pocket for a drawstring around top and a band of suede fringe around the outside of the boot.
Indistinct trademark/logo stamped on sole. Illegible stamped mark inside boots.
Referred to as "Squaw Boots", these were worn by the donor who acquired them in 1968 from the Fishing Bridge Store, in Yellowstone National Park. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30322/
Coat of black wool. Mid-length coat with cape collar, and double-breasted front closure with two rows of 5 circular black plastic buttons. Exaggerated cuffs and front pockets. Lined in black cloth.
Designer's label sewn in collar at center back: "Norell"
Retailer's label sewn inside at right side: "Sakowitz / Houston"
Part of an ensemble which includes a dress of black wool and a belt. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc283685/
Dress of turquoise colored sateen cotton. Sleeveless with square yoked bodice. Lines of horizontal top stitching over body of dress. Two front patch pockets. Center front decorative short, white, plastic zipper. Back zipper closure with hook & eye. Knee length, but hem has been removed.
Designer's label at inside back zipper: "Courrèges / Paris / made in france"
Style number stamped on designer's label:"0078019"
Care instruction/fabric content tag attached to bottom of designer's label. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc283747/
- Ensemble - Coat and Skirt
Ensemble. Coat and matching skirt (not shown) of woven upholstery-weight fabric with stylized floral and geometric designs in burgundy and blue/black on a creme ground. Coat is mid-length, flaring slightly to hem, with long sleeves and a center-front opening. The opening, hem, and cuffs are all trimmed in a curly "lamb's wool" died burgundy to match the pattern. Fully lined in burgundy silk(?) With separate sash/belt. Labels in coat: Designer's label "Anne Klein" with lion logo; Dallas, Texas retailer's label "Marie Leavell".
Not shown is skirt in matching fabric, mid-length, with no trim. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30196/
Hat of light beige fur felt. Domed crown with wide, folded brim. Two bows of self under the back rim. Headband of light gray grosgrain ribbon. Unlined.
Designer's label at inside headband: "Miss Dior / Created by / Christian Dior"
Stamp on inside crown: "Helios / Body Made in Italy" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc283713/
Pair of pumps of mottled light brown/tan reptile skin. The shoes are designed with a rounded toe and squared-off vamp/instep. The edge of the upper has a border of small holes backed with black leather. The thick, chunky heel is covered with a black reptile leather, and flares to the base.
Designer's label stamped inside: "Andrew Geller"
Retailer's label stamped inside: "Neiman-Marcus"
Handwritten inside: "4 1/2 B / 628 380 / 461323G" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc87007/
Pair of shoes of navy blue leather. The shoes are designed with square toes and dark leather uppers. A wide rectangular panel of navy blue simulated reptile skin extends from the toe, up the vamp, below an oval cut-out in the vamp, and up the instep to create a tongue. The 2 1/4" high heel is covered with same blue leather, and tapers to base.
Maker's label stamped inside: "Esprit"
Stamped inside: "Leather upper & Sole / Other Mat'ls Man-Made"
Handwritten inside: "5 M 0320109 / A AA 37122 5" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc87002/