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  Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
 Decade: 1970-1979
 Collection: Texas Fashion Collection
Day Dress
Day dress of black, blue, gray and yellow nylon jersey knit. Elbow length, set-in sleeves are black with banded cuffs in gold, yellow, blue and black pattern. Rounded, banded neckline. Knee length. Natural waistline is slightly gathered at sides and back. Center back zipper with hook & eye. Unlined. Signed "Paganne" in pattern of dress. Designer's label at neckline to left of zipper: "Paganne Ltd. / by Gene Berk -8-" Care label at neckline to right of zipper.
Evening dress of pale yellow silk chiffon with bead detailing. V-neckline in front creating the halter, with pieces draped from halter down and out to sides. The entire bodice is finely pleated and gathered, and has beaded panels which creates an empire waist. The beaded panels vary from narrow at center front to wide at sides, and meet at center back. The beading is white and silver beaded horizontal stripes on a mauve background. The skirt is formed by the chiffon being gathered into the beaded panels in many layers and falling to the floor. Dress has a matching lining and has a zipper down center back with hook-and-eye closures at top of zipper and at halter. Label in gown: "Victoria Royal Ltd. / Made In / British Crown Colony / of / Hong Kong".
Dress of black shadow-stripe silk chiffon with red abstract print. Street length, with bound, rounded neckline. Long sleeves with snap at hem. Elastic in casing at waist. Six 3/8" covered buttons with self loops down bodice center back. Overskirt gathers from waistline, undulating from left front and back, 10 inches in length, graduates to 20 inches on right side. Slit 9" up from left side underskirt hem. Padded shoulders. Lined in black synthetic. Designer's label at left of center back opening: "Hanae Mori" Retailer's label at right of center back opening: "Neiman-Marcus" Care/content and size "8" tags at right side seam. With double-faced red satin belt; 2 inches x 56 inches long.
Earrings - Banjara Festival Attire
Earrings. Pair of earrings for pierced ears. Each earring is composed of an inner and outer circular hoop. A single flat silver pendant is suspended within the inner hoop, while a fringe of 7 pendants of a bugle bead and a silver sphere hang from the inner hoop. From the outer hoop hang a long triangular pendant fringe of 13 graduated strands with bugle beads, terminating in flat silver teardrop forms.
Earrings - Kutchi Group, Pashtun Peoples, Afghanistan.
Earrings. Pair of heavy pendant earrings of silver-colored metal and glass. Bail loops suspend a roughly semi-circular silver plate with collet-set glass sapphires, emeralds, and rubies. From lower edge of plate are suspended small clusters of flat silver shapes and small spheres. Earrings do not match exactly.
Earrings - Rabari Festival Attire
Silver earrings. Hook fasteners attached to triangular plaques set with red or red and green glass circles. Below plaques are suspended hemispherical filigree pieces with fringe of wrapped wire and silver spheres. One earring with 5 red stones, one empty collet, the other earring with 4 red and 2 green stones.
Earrings - Rabari Festival Attire
Silver earrings. Wire hook fasteners attached to oval collet containing a large oval dark blue glass(?) cabochon stone. Below stone is suspended a filigree hemisphere with dense fringe of silver shaped plaques and spheres.
Ensemble - Blouse and Skirt
Ensemble in black silk crepe with diagonal "scratch print" in green, consisting of: Tunic style top. Below-hip length, with asymmetrical neckline. Long flaring dolman bottom sleeves. Cut on bias. Unlined. Belted with tie sash of same fabric, with pointed ends and lingerie hem. Skirt. Midi length, with elastic waist and zipper closing on diagonal at left side toward back. Unlined.
Ensemble - Blouse and Slacks
Outfit. A) Blouse of multicolored polyester in a geometric design. "Midriff scarf blouse" style, with wide elastic neckline, cropped waist, and wide band of elastic smocking to create waistband below bust. Lower edge with ruffle effect. Sleeves are triangular in shape, forming oversized wings that flow as wearer moves. No labels. B) Slacks of off-white cotton or cotton/polyester blend. Full-length, with wide, slightly flaring legs and pronounced cuffs. Wide waistband, with cf zipper and two snaps at waistband. Wide belt-loops. Unlined. No labels. Handwritten inside: "M B Walker F"
Ensemble - Egyptian Traditional Ensemble
Egyptian Ensemble. A) Galabeya. Full-length galabeya of black cotton, with rounded neckline cut at base to for a shallow "V". Caftan style, with long sleeves and slit from hem upwards on right side. Front of galabeya with embroidered and applique decoration. Around neck and front of bodice is floral decoration and scrolls in gold, greens, red, and blue, and central shield-shaped gold satin applique piece with embroidered scroll work in gold and blue. Lower part of galabeya with matching, but inverted similar gold satin appliques with embroidered scrolls, and embroidered floral forms. Long sleeves with thin rectangular embroidered gold bands along wrist. Unlined. B) Head Scarf. Rectangle of fine red fabric, lower edge scalloped. Upper edge with sewn border incorporating spaced gold cylindrical beads. Ends of scarf and scalloped area of lower edge with thin crocheted/sewn band with spaced gold tear-drop beads and simulated gold coins. Applied to center of scarf are two bands of red crocheted/knitted net with gold spherical beads and pendant simulated gold coins.
Ensemble - Nubian Traditional Ensemble
Nubian Ensemble. A) Jirjara robe (Nubian-style young woman's galabeyah) of sheer black machine-made lace with scattered "tendrils" of various sized dots all-over which extend from hem upwards. Full-length, with rounded neckline and slight "V" at front. Full-length sleeves flaring to wrist. B) Under-dress of white cotton embroidered with ancient Egyptian-inspired motifs, including lotus blossoms. Full-length, with rounded neckline with small "V" at front. Neckline edged with green embroidery. Short sleeves edged with similar green embroidery, as are the short slits from the hem upwards. "Bib" at front of upper part of dress with green, yellow, blue, red, and pink embroidery of stylized lotus, scrolls, border lines, etc. Front of skirt with large embroidered motif of lotus(?) growing from bowl, with other blossoms around, in same colors. Back is plain. Unlined. C) Head scarf of very fine black fabric. Triangular in shape, with edging of simulated gold-colored coins. With suite of costume jewelery of gold-colored metal hung with faux coins, consisting of: 1) Necklace. Simple gold chain suspending triangular "net" of gold quaterfoil-shaped links hung with tiers of faux coins. Simple hook fastener. "Cascade" style. 2) Headpiece (?). Formed of two linked triangles of net with 6-lobed openwork links, hung with tiers of faux coins. At center point is large heart-shaped pendant hung with fringe of coins on short beaded strands. 3) Earrings. Pair. Simple hook suspends horizontal bar from which hangs a triangular "cascade" of tiers of faux gold coins hung on a net of quatrefoil-shaped links. 4) Bracelet. Cuff-style openwork wire bracelet with fringe of tiny spherical bells. 5) Bracelet. Cuff-style bracelet of openwork metal hung with a triangular "cascade" of tiers of faux gold coins hung on a net of quatrefoil-shaped links.
Evening Dress and Scarf
Evening dress of red, blue and gray polyester silk chiffon with scarf. Dress is full-length and has draped bodice with moderate deep V-neckline. Center front lapped opening with three hook & eyes and two snaps as the closure. Set-in modified kimono sleeves gather at the top of the arm eye and at 1-1/2" cuffs. The cuffs fasten with a single loop and covered shank button. The sleeves are open/slit along the outer edge and under arm. Natural waist seam with full-length, semi-full red polyester silk underskirt and printed chiffon over skirt. The underskirt is slit at the side seams. The bodice is fully lined in red polyester silk. Elasticized waistline. Shoulder pads. Designer's label at center back neckline: "Hanae Mori" Fiber content/care tag, union label and style/size tag at right side seam of lining. With matching scarf/sash of matching printed chiffon. Long narrow rectangular shape with rolled hem. When worn as a scarf it would hang to mid-calf; as a sash it would be hem length.
Festival Attire - Akha Hill Tribe
Festival ensemble, Akha Hill Tribe, Thailand. a) Jacket/bodice. Jacket or bodice of black cotton, waist-length, with no collar, shaped neckline, and front opening with no closures. On right side of bodice at upper breast/collarbone is applied panel/section which forms edge of opening. Panel has "zig-zag" effect of three points created by patchwork of various printed fabrics and applied thin bands. Long sleeves with blue fabric sewn at ends to create cuffs. At back, "hanging" from collar is patchwork panel of patterned cloths shaped as a trapezoid with curved long side. Primarily lined in blue cloth with white geometric/linear designs, part of embroidery panel at front lined with a printed brown fabric with small black/yellow geometric design. (zig-zag panel at front) b) Pants. Pants of black cotton embellished with multicolored embroidery. Full-length depending on height of wearer. Wide plain waistband in front, elasticized section at back, and with attached string belt at side which has pom-pom terminals. At front, from waistband, are two "flaps" over upper legs, one forming a pocket with wide decorative band at top consisting of red strips of fabric on dark blue fabric band. The second flap has wide horizontal band of embroidered fabric, with bands of diamonds, squares, "x" shapes, etc. in yellow, blue, white, black, etc. on primarily orange ground. Cuffs of pants, at outer side of each leg, has rectangular applied panels of cross-stitch embroidered fabric in reddish, white, and mustard, with applied machine-woven decorative ribbon with pink squares and blue shapes. Unlined. No labels or tags in garment. c) Hat. Black with beading and silver and shells, with red decorations and pendant parts d) Belt. Black cotton(?) belt formed as a rectangle, upper and side edges straight, lower edge gently scalloped to form points at center front and at sides. Belt is edged with border of small blue/green, brownish/tan seeds, with two horizontal bands of same seeds running across belt. Between bands of seeds are bands of silver-colored cabochon discs. Just above each point is a star-burst made of oval white beads/seeds, colored beads, and a cowrie(?) shell. From each point hangs 3 beaded pendants with a bell at end of each. Belt secures with black ties. No labels or tags. ca. 35 1/2" long w/out ties; 5" wide w/out fringe/pendants. e & f) Over-sleeves. Detachable sleeves formed as two 15 1/2" long fabric cylinders, slightly wider at top than cuff, which slide over sleeves of jacket. The cylinders are made of horizontal bands of different woven patterned fabrics of primarily pinks with green, white, and orange decorations, sewn together, with alternating bands of red cloth with applied rick-rack in blue, white, green, yellow, pink, etc., each with silver threading. Sleeves are lined with a printed white fabric with blue linear stripe/band designs. No labels or tags in garment. g) Bag of black cotton, embellished with embroidery, bead-work, silver discs, and a single coin. Long black cotton strap.
Korean Hanbok. A) Jeogori (Jacket) of white and red damask patterned with floral motifs. Short, cropped white damask top with deep V neckline lined in red damask. Long sleeves, widening towards fore-arm and then curved to wrist. Under-arm area and cuff of the red damask. Center front opening secured with one hidden snap and two long ties of red damask. Lined in thin white fabric. No labels in garment. B) Chima (Skirt) of red damask matching the Jeogori. Full-length, wrap-style garment. Thin white straps to go over shoulders support wide upper band into which the body of the skirt is gathered. Ties at back with ties of red damask. Lined in dark red fabric. No labels in garment.
Hat of black wool felt with attached scarf of black jersey wool. Wide, slightly asymmetrical brim. Domed crown with narrow headband of same which crosses in back and trails to edge of brim. Unlined with black grosgrain ribbon inner headband. Stamp on inside crown: "Made in Poland / Tally-Ho / Pollak Imp Ex Corp / 100% Wool" Retailer's label on inside headband: "Saks Fifth Avenue"
Box style jacket of brown suede. Wide pointed collar and lapels. Long sleeves. Asymmetrical closing at center front with large appliqued circle patch pocket at right front and 2 large metallic silver buttons with bound buttonholes. Closure reinforced with two large snaps on waistband. Four 12" ties at waist band with1-1/2" diameter suede circles at ends. Lined in brown synthetic fabric. Designer's label at center back neckline: "Pierre Cardin / Paris New York / Made in France" Retailer's label at right front opening: "Neiman-Marcus / Trophy Room" Label at left shoulder: "Made in France (rest illegible)"
Necklace - Rabari Festival Attire
Necklace. "Bib" style necklace with 4-strand black yarn necklace with silver slide at back. Front bib of silver beads mounted in vertical bands into a "fan" form, from which hang a fringe of 11 polished cowrie(?) shells, with a further fringe of pendant chains and spheres hanging from each shell.
Necklace - Turkmenistan Festival Outfit
Necklace. Green cloth necklace, edged with black cloth tape and embellished with spaced stamped silver roundels. Button/buttonhole clasp. The necklace supports a massive silver pendant formed as a large triangle set with oval red glass cabochons, between two silver "club" shapes. Below the triangle and clubs is a horizontal silver square tube set with oval red cabochons, below which are four large inverted stylized "fleur-dis-lys" forms, set with oval cabochons. From all lower parts hang long chains and large bells.
Necklace - Turkmenistan Festival Outfit
Necklace. Bead necklace of red and blue glass(?) beads strung on white cord. From necklace, via 3 large loops, is suspended a large horizontal silver-colored tube, with bands of flattened/soldered wire decoration. From lower edge of tube hang pendants of flat silver shapes, some small rectangular, some larger "bird shaped", each set with a red or green stone. From these pendants hand further chains and oval plaques. Tube opens at one end, is empty.
Necklace - Uzbekistan - Surxondaryo Province - Boysun Peoples Festival Outfit
Necklace of openwork beading. Wide straps with diamond shapes of yellow/orange with inner sections of blues and yellows against grounds of green, red, blue, and orange. Large central section formed as a white beaded diamond shape containing concentric diamonds of green and red. Blue beaded fringe at bottom ending in red and white "flowerheads"
Necklace - Uzbekistan - Surxondaryo Province - Boysun Peoples Festival Outfit
Bead Necklace. "Bib" style, with wide main portion of latticed clear beads overlaid with a field of shell/mother of pearl buttons. Vertical strands of beads along top, attaching to choker band with button clasp. The bib has a lower band of white, black, etc. openwork beading, then strands of beaded fringe in clear, green, yellow, blue, black, red, etc.
Necklace - Uzbekistan - Surxondaryo Province - Boysun Peoples Festival Outfit
Bead Necklace. "choker" style bead necklace composed of sections of orange and black horizontal strands interspersed with diamond-shaped motifs of white, orange, green, yellow, and reddish brown. Below the main section is a "fringe, consisting of white beads forming a narrow net, then bands of red and orange, then fringe of blue, yellow, black, white, red, green, and ending in shells, glass beads, etc. Large circular button clasp.
Pillbox Hat
Pillbox hat of black jersey. The cylindrical crown has a flat, slightly recessed top, and bands of black silk ribbon decoration applied horizontally around sides. Upper and lower bands are of plain layered ribbon forming slightly molded bands, while central band is of twisted/folded/worked ribbon creating a dimensional braided pattern. Hat is lined in black satin, with inner black grosgrain ribbon hatband and a single small faux turtle shell comb to help secure it to wearer's head. Designer's label: "Givenchy / Paris" "Made in / France"
Pumps of pink, yellow, orange, and white plaid synthetic fabric. The shoes have rounded toes and a 2" high square chunky heel. On top of each shoe, across instep/vamp, are two self fabric covered martial cords twisted together with gold ends. Designer label: "Lily Shoes / Walk with Comfort"
Pair of pumps of pale gray/green satin. Plain uppers with applied oval panel of multicolored floral brocade simulating embroidery at vamp, within a metal twist/rope frame, as a decorative buckle. Low modified Louis heel covered in same fabric. Brand stamp: "Pietro / Last" Retailer's label: "Neiman Marcus" Handwritten inside: "7B 4872 / 699320A"
Purse of brown and tan woven burlap-type fabric and brown leather. Rectangular, with rounded bottom and edges. Sides of fabric, end panels of leather, with leather handles and trim with brass hardware. Closure is a 1" inch leather strap with "door knocker" type fixture with a turn key closure. One zippered pocket interior center creates three distinct compartments. Designer's stamp on interior zippered pocket: "Etienne Aigner / Hand Made"
Pair of shoes of ivory leather and black patent leather. Made in the "spectator" style, the rounded toe-box, the 4" high blocky heel, and the lower part of the heel upper are of black patent leather, while the rest of the upper is of ivory leather. The black patent leather panels are decorated with white stitching along the edges. Lined in brown leather. Designer label: "Xavier Danaud / Paris" Handwritten inside: "7 1/2 B 2019"
Shoes - Egyptian Traditional Ensemble
Shoes. Slip-on, low-heeled, open back slippers of red leather. Toe-box decorated with Egyptian motifs, including lotus flowers and a "Nefertiti" head. Lined in read leather. Black rubber soles. Note: mis-matched pair. Both are left shoes.
Shift style dress of tan ultra suede. Below knee length. Three-quarter length sleeves with 3" rolled cuffs. Banded collar becomes V-shaped placket neckline. Center back zipper with 3 hook & eyes at neckline. Slit pockets at side seams. Remains of loop on right side seam indicated may have once had a belt. Unlined. Designer's label on inside left neckline: "Mollie Parnis / a Skinner ultra / suede fabric" Retailer's label on inside right neckline: "Lou Lattimore / Dallas" Union label and cleaning instruction tags at zipper. Style/size tag to right of cleaning instruction tag: "Order 3266 / Style Catello / Size 920 8 / Remarks"
Dress of yellow nylon and chiffon with floral print in greens, white, and pale orange. Full-length dress consists of layers. Inner yellow nylon(?) sheath, sleeveless, with neckline with slight, shallow rounding. Center back zipper. Outer layer is attached to inner only at neckline and armholes. Full-length, flowing outer layer of yellow chiffon with floral print. Vertical pin tucks at left and right of neckline from shoulders mid-bust. Long, flowing panels from shoulders, not true sleeves, not closed along underside/inside of arm, but extending as over-sized cap sleeves - also described as "open kimono sleeves" or "over-sized flutter sleeves". Center back closure with 12 self covered buttons and loops. Designer's label at inside back zipper: "Teal Traina / New York" Care label at side seam near hem: "Professionally / Dry Clean / Only" Union label at side seam near hem. Size label at side seam near hem: "10" Spare cloth-covered button sewn near union/care/size labels.
Dress of blue nylon knit with clouds and airplane motif, and with "Hanae Mori" signature in the print. Full length, with round neck, gathered at yoke. Neckline is trimmed with three cords of same fabric and trailing ends forming a tie at the center front. Long sleeves are gathered at 1-1/2" cuffs, which close with large covered snap. Center front placket closes with large covered snaps and is trimmed with four airplane-shaped, nonfunctional buttons. Unlined. Designer's label at center back neckline: "Hanae Mori / Tokyo . New York" Fiber content/care label to left of designer label. Union Label beside content/care label. With cord belt of same print fabric. With belt of magenta pink leather; 3/4" wide. Horseshoe shaped buckle.
Evening Dress
Evening dress of black silk crepe. Below-knee length; sleeveless, but cut to form a very slight cap sleeve effect just off shoulder. Semi-fitted tunic-like bodice with plunging V-neckline formed by wrap construction, the lapped center front closure with two hook & bar closures at waist. Surplus fabric in front and back gathers into the narrow waistband. Skirt appears tubular, and has scalloped front hem. Designer's label at center back inside: "Halston" Size label at back inside waist: "8" Care label - dry clean only Union label (1974-1990s style)
Pair of heeled pumps of brown silk. Designed with slightly pointed toe and platform, the instep is crossed by a gold chain with squared links which extends back along outside of foot to near heel. Heel covered with same fabric, tapering slightly to base. Designer's label: "Roger Vivier / Paris" These shoes were made to match a dress by Givenchy.
Wedding Dress
Wedding dress of white chiffon(?), tulle, and lace. Full-length, full skirt. Empire waist. Long sleeves, with 3" lace cuffs and lace ruffle and two bands of matching lace running length of sleeve. Lace ruffle around shoulder. Square neckline, filled in with lace, which rises to form high standing collar with ruffle. Band of lace at waist and two bands down front. Cathedral train with two tiers of self at lower part of skirt, edged in lace. Lapped center back zipper. Attached slip of ivory synthetic, and very full layer of tulle. Tiers also with under layer of tulle. Union Label inside skirt. With matching headpiece/veil. Rigid cylindrical headpiece of stiffened, wired lace, the sides of which extend down in points, from the crown of which spring 3 layers of white tulle, the shortest (shoulder length) and middle (calf-length) layers edged with lace to match dress, the longest (trailing behind) with plain edge.
Box Jacket
Box jacket of ivory wool. Bracelet length, raglan sleeves. Convertible collar. Single breasted with three cream colored plastic buttons and tailored buttonholes. Top stitching on seams. Sleeves lined in cream colored silk. Designer's label at center back neckline: "Automne-Hiver 1973 / Christian Dior / Paris / Made in France" and stamped 02766 Retailer's label at center back neckline: "Lou Lattimore / Dallas"
Coat of silk gazar with a printed pattern of red and white polka dots on a black background. The mid-length to below-knee length coat has a rolled collar and short sleeves with princess seaming. There is a center-front opening with 5 circular buttons covered with black gazar, and with piped buttonholes. At some seams are applied whole red or white polka dots where the seams had "cut" printed polka dots. Coat has designer's label at inside back, below collar: "Givenchy", folded over and sewn in a way that obscures the rest of the label: "Made In / France". This coat is part of an ensemble that includes a dress of black gazar, and has matching shoes of same fabric made by Roger Vivier of Paris (1979.011.076) Donor notes: "This is the fabric that was invented for Balenciaga and now only Givenchy can have it .... [the coat] is made so that if a dot had to be cut in half at a noticeable place, Givenchy had a whole dot appliqued over it. Monsieur Givenchy does not do this tedious handwork for all clients."
Dress of bright green chiffon printed with multi-color shapes and with all-over scattered sequins and beading. The full-length A-line sheath has a round neckline with beaded band trim at neckline. The long sleeves have five non-functioning beaded buttons at wrist, and five hidden snap closures from wrist. The dress has an attached underdress of matte silk printed with same design as the overdress. The garment is fully lined with cream silk which has woven into it a repeated pattern of Hanae Mori's name. The underdress has a zipper closure at center back from neckline to above waist. The overdress has a series of hidden snaps to conceal the zipper, and a line of eight beaded buttons matching those on the sleeves, also non-functional. A single hook-and-loop closure at neck secures the top of the garment. The printed design includes circles, flowers, and fluid lines and triangles in shades of pink, yellow, blue, orange, and violet. The sequins are clear, and are secured with tiny colored beads, the colors of which match the color of the dress they are sewn over. Sewn inside dress at back at left of zipper is designer label: "[Japanese characters] / Hanae Mori"
Dress of black double knit. Just below knee-length, with long sleeves, bodice has slight V-neckline formed by slight standing collar, which merges with pair of points at center front formed by tucked pleats. Natural waist, A-line skirt. Center back zipper closure. Bodice lined in black, sleeves and skirt unlined. No labels in dress. With black leather belt with silver colored metal buckle. Stamped on reverse: "12 Do Not / Dry Clean"
Clutch handbag of patent leather in small oval shape. Gold tone closure of three rings in bamboo pattern. Tuckable gold herringbone chain; 1/4" strap 30"long. Three interior compartments with black faille lining; 2 inner pocket, 1 with gold faille lining. Designer's stamp: "M M / Morris Moskowitz" Original maker's card in small black compartment; side 1: "M M / Morris Moskowitz"; side 2: This / Handbag is Made / Of Man Made / Materials" Measurements: 22cm L, 16cm H (with closure), 3cm W
Sling-Back Platform Pumps
Pair of sling-back platform pumps made of stripes of red, mustard yellow, green, and blue leather. Designed with a round toe, and thick platform sole, the open-toe shoes have a wide strap across instep to create vamp of shoe. Strap is of red, yellow, green, and blue leather, the stripes of which continue onto platform sole. Separate red leather sling-back strap wraps around ankle and fastens with a gold colored oval buckle.
Dress of multi-colored velvets. The floor-length dress has an empire waist and bell-shaped long sleeves. The upper, bodice, section is made of a sheer, multi-colored fabric woven with bands of gold thread. Over the bodice is applied sections of burnout velvet in various colors, forming bands running up the bodice, over the shoulders, and down the back, another band forming a 1" high collar, and as 2" bands around each wrist. The sections are bordered in gold cording. The lower, skirt, section is of green velvet printed in browns, greens, and gold in an abstract geometric/organic design. Fully lined in green silk(?). Center back zipper from neckline to just above waist. Three hook-and-loop closures on collar. Designer label sewn alongside zipper at shoulder-blade height at right: "Ronald Amey / New York". Evidence of removed label at inside, center front of dress below neckline.
Ensemble - Coat and Dress
Ensemble of printed silk. The full-length dress is of silk with a printed design of abstract flower forms in red, blue, purple, white, yellow and green on a black ground. It has a rounded neckline and long sleeves which have fabric covered snaps at the wrists. The bodice is seamed and fitted, and the skirt is slightly A-line, flaring to hem. Center back closure, top third is hook-and-eyes, the lower two-thirds is a zipper. The dress is fully lined in black silk. Designer's label sewn inside bodice near waist: "Givenchy". Underneath label is a second label with handwritten notation "48245". The matching coat is of the same print on a heavier weight silk. It is full-length, with a standing collar which has internal wiring for support. The sleeves are full-length, and it has a center front opening which secures with a single fabric-covered snap just below collar. The coat is unlined. Designer's label sewn inside coat at right near waist: "Givenchy". Underneath label is a second label with handwritten notation "48246" This ensemble was made for the donor to wear to the wedding of Maria del Carmen Martinez-Bordiu y Franco, (1951- ) granddaughter of General Franco, to Don Alfonso, Duke of Anjou and Cádiz (1936 - 1989), son of Infante Jaime of Spain, Duke of Segovia and grandson of King Alfonso XIII of Spain. The wedding took place in the chapel of El Pardo Palace, Madrid, on 8th March 1972. The donor noted: "It was designed by Monsieur Givenchy especially for me. Balenciaga was alive, though he had closed his house, and Givenchy consulted with him on this outfit. You can see Balenciaga's line to it. ... Givenchy had the two distinct fabrics printed in the same design -- one for dress and one for coat. He said it must look like the light shining through the stained glass windows of the Chapel." The ensemble has a matching pair of shoes by Roger Viver made of fabric in the same print.
Ensemble - Coat, Blouse, and Skirt
Ensemble. A) Coat of brown and white felted wool. Knee-length or longer, long set-in sleeves. Center front opening with 5 large circular brown plastic buttons with bound buttonholes. Main body of coat of pale brown and white check design, with cuffs, collar, and lower band of coat (about hips to hem) of light brown. Light brown and white check self tie belt. Side slit pockets. Lined in pale taupe. Designer's label at center back neckline: "Norell" Hand-written label just above designer's label: "Deborah 929" B) Blouse of cream wool jersey. Long sleeves, high standing collar. Center back zipper closure running almost entire length of garment, from top of collar to about 3" above hem. Hook & eye at top of collar. Collar lined in satin, the rest of the blouse is unlined. Not hemmed. Hand-written label sewn in at neckline: "Deborah 929" C) Skirt of brown wool tweed. Mid-length; slight A-line. Narrow, 1-1/2" waistband. Fully lined in brown silk(?). Center back zipper closure with large hook & eye on waistband. Hand-written label "Deborah 1929". D) Belt of brown leather with wide square, self-covered buckle. Two inches wide. Belt is attached to skirt with inner bands of leather to which loops from the skirt are sewn. Stamped on reverse: "26 Norman Norell 3736".
Ensemble - Vest, Blouse and Skirts
Ensemble in blue and gold polyester consisting of mix and match component vest, blouses, skirts and belt. First image shows: a) Vest: A fitted, hip-length shell of blue and gold check polyester woven in a pattern of yellow/gold squares on a blue ground with thin white threading. It has a deep rounded neckline and nipped waist. The center front opening is secured with three chiffon covered snaps and has two bound button holes and two gold-tone metal buttons. The center front opening and the hem are faced with navy blue polyester embellished with three double rows of gold metallic running stitches. The vest is fully lined in blue silk. Designer's label is located inside center back, below the neckline: "Ronald Amey"; Retailer's label sewn in just above designer's: "Marie Leavell". b) Blouse: A fitted, hip-length shell of gold polyester with high rounded neckline, standing band collar and full-length set-in sleeves. The sleeves are accented with contrasting, circular ruffle cuffs of blue and gold check polyester, woven so that one side looks yellow/gold squares on a blue ground with thin white threading, and the other side of the ruffles looks like blue squares with thin white threading on a yellow/gold ground. The cuffs have a short placket opening secured with a loop and gold-tone metal button. The center front neckline is accented with a four-tiered ruffled jabot of blue and gold check polyester. The center back zipper closure extends from neck to hip, and is supplemented at the collar with two hook-and-eyes. The collar is faced with gold satin. Designer's label located inside at right side seam, at waist-level: "Ronald Amey / New York". c) Skirt: A flared, knee-length circular skirt in blue and gold check polyester, woven with blue squares with thin white threading on a yellow/gold ground. The wide waistband has a center back lapped opening secured with two loops and blue fabric covered buttons and a hidden snap. There is also a center back zipper closure extending from waist to hip level. It has side seam slit pockets which are lined in blue silk. The skirt is also fully lined in blue silk. Designer's label located inside right center back, beside the zipper: "Ronald Amey / New York". The second image shows: a) Vest, described above. b) Skirt: A full-length semi-circular skirt in blue and gold check polyester woven to appear as yellow/gold squares on a ground of blue with thin white threading. The wide waistband has a lapped center back opening secured with two loops and clear plastic buttons. There is also a center back zipper closure extending from waist to hip level. The skirt has deep, side seam inverted pleat details. Side seam slit pockets are lined in blue silk. It has a turned, bound hem, and is fully lined in blue silk. Designer's label is located inside right center back beside the zipper: "Ronald Amey / New York". Not in photo are two other parts to the ensemble, a second blouse and a belt/cummerbund.
Hat of brown felt. Designed somewhat like a cloche, the domed crown is encircled at the base by a folded-over band of brown grosgrain ribbon tied at side, with a "pouf" of white, green, black and taupe feather. Fairly narrow brim, which is folded over and sewn down at edge, is turned up at front and left, down at right and back. The hat is unlined, with a dark brown grosgrain ribbon inner hatband. Designer's label: "Don Kline"
Pants Ensemble
Pants ensemble. A) Jacket in box style of gray and cream plaid mohair. Short jacket with long, set-in sleeves and shawl collar. Two patch pockets at breasts. Center front opening with four large circular gray pearl plastic buttons and bound buttonholes. Fully lined with gray polyester(?). Designer's label inside below back collar: "Normal Norell / New York" Model number tags, handwritten on ribbon, 2 of them, stitched above and below designer's label: "Deborah / 818" Another sample tag sewn to outside of coat under left arm: "#53 / Debrah" B) Blouse of cream jersey knit. Long sleeves and high, mock turtleneck. Zipper closure at back, almost full length, with hook-and-eye closure at top. Neck lined in cream silk. Hemline is unfinished. Sewn inside at collar is hand-written style tag: "Deborah / 818" Sewn to outside of front, at hem, are style tag, handwritten on ribbon: "Deborah", with small sample of gray knit sewn just below. C) Pants in harlow style of heather gray wool knit. Full-length; wide legs. Wide,2-2/2" waistband; two slit pockets at side seams. Center back zipper with hook & eye at top of waistband. Lined in gray silk; only attached by single threads at legs. Sewn inside waistband is cloth tape with hand-written style tag: "Deborah / 818", and attached just above tag is a small sample of the fabric of the blouse.
Pair of pumps of aqua blue and white printed peau de soie silk. Shoe is designed with a gently pointed toe, and thick heel that tapers to base. Shoe upper is of white silk printed with pale blue abstract pattern. Designer's label stamped inside: "Roger Viver / Paris" Stamped inside: "sur mesure" Handwritten inside: "4170"
Wedding Dress
Wedding dress of purple calico. Full length, with slight ruffled standing collar, long sleeves with elastic cuffs, tucked bodice, gathered skirt with ruffle at waistline. Inside hem with thin band of purple lace. Center back zipper closure with hook-and-eye at top.
Day Dress
Day dress of red and purple printed wool knit. Knee-length or slightly below, the dress has a fairly deep rounded neckline and long set-in sleeves. Skirt is gathered at slightly dropped waist. Dress has a center back zipper, and is unlined. The dress is made of of areas of print. The bodice and upper part of the skirt has a geometric print of purple diamond/parallelagram shapes on red ground. The sleeves and lower part of the skirt have a print of large purple squares on red ground, forming a checkerboard pattern. Center back lapped zipper. Unlined. Designer label: "Rudi Gernreich design for / 10 Harmon Knitwear" Care label: "Dry Clean / Only / 100% wool"
Ensemble. a) Jacket of beige bias cut wool gaberdine. Double breasted with 6 basket weave covered fabric buttons and bound buttonholes; two interior black plastic buttons and bound buttonholes. Waist length, straight sides. Notched collar. Bracelet length sleeves with two functioning, matching buttons and bound buttonholes. Flap pockets at sides. Collar, front opening, sleeve hems and pocket flaps trimmed in black. Lined in black silk. Designer's label at center back neckline: "Norman Norell / New York" Retailer's label at left front opening: "Rich's / Specialty Shop" b) Blouse of printed silk twill in orange and yellow squares. Center front opening with 7 gold plastic circular buttons and barred buttonholes. Long sleeves with cuffs having a single matching button. Ends of collar extend to form tie. Unlined.Ensemble. a) Norell: Jacket of beige bias cut wool gaberdine. Double breasted with 6 basket weave covered fabric buttons and bound buttonholes; two interior black plastic buttons and bound buttonholes. Waist length, straight sides. Notched collar. Bracelet length sleeves with two functioning, matching buttons and bound buttonholes. Flap pockets at sides. Collar, front opening, sleeve hems and pocket flaps trimmed in black. Lined in black silk. Designer's label at center back neckline: "Norman Norell / New York" Retailer's label at left front opening: "Rich's / Specialty Shop" b) Norell: Blouse of printed silk twill in orange and yellow squares. Center front opening with 7 gold plastic circular buttons and barred buttonholes. Long sleeves with cuffs having a single matching button. Ends of collar extend to form tie. Unlined. c) Rech: Skirt of black wool. Narrow waistband with center back button and zipper below. Skirt gathers slightly into waistband. Pockets at sides. Fully lined. Designer's label: "Synonyme / de georges rech paris"; "Made in France" Size: "40" Fabric: "100% Woc / Laine, Wool, Wolle, Lana, / wol. / [care pictograms]" 2nd fabric/care tag sewn to first, primarily in French.