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  Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
 Decade: 1970-1979
 Collection: Texas Fashion Collection
Dress
Evening dress of pale yellow silk chiffon with bead detailing. V-neckline in front creating the halter, with pieces draped from halter down and out to sides. The entire bodice is finely pleated and gathered, and has beaded panels which creates an empire waist. The beaded panels vary from narrow at center front to wide at sides, and meet at center back. The beading is white and silver beaded horizontal stripes on a mauve background. The skirt is formed by the chiffon being gathered into the beaded panels in many layers and falling to the floor. Dress has a matching lining and has a zipper down center back with hook-and-eye closures at top of zipper and at halter. Label in gown: "Victoria Royal Ltd. / Made In / British Crown Colony / of / Hong Kong". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30333/
Festival Attire - Akha Hill Tribe
Festival ensemble, Akha Hill Tribe, Thailand. a) Jacket/bodice. Jacket or bodice of black cotton, waist-length, with no collar, shaped neckline, and front opening with no closures. On right side of bodice at upper breast/collarbone is applied panel/section which forms edge of opening. Panel has "zig-zag" effect of three points created by patchwork of various printed fabrics and applied thin bands. Long sleeves with blue fabric sewn at ends to create cuffs. At back, "hanging" from collar is patchwork panel of patterned cloths shaped as a trapezoid with curved long side. Primarily lined in blue cloth with white geometric/linear designs, part of embroidery panel at front lined with a printed brown fabric with small black/yellow geometric design. (zig-zag panel at front) b) Pants. Pants of black cotton embellished with multicolored embroidery. Full-length depending on height of wearer. Wide plain waistband in front, elasticized section at back, and with attached string belt at side which has pom-pom terminals. At front, from waistband, are two "flaps" over upper legs, one forming a pocket with wide decorative band at top consisting of red strips of fabric on dark blue fabric band. The second flap has wide horizontal band of embroidered fabric, with bands of diamonds, squares, "x" shapes, etc. in yellow, blue, white, black, etc. on primarily orange ground. Cuffs of pants, at outer side of each leg, has rectangular applied panels of cross-stitch embroidered fabric in reddish, white, and mustard, with applied machine-woven decorative ribbon with pink squares and blue shapes. Unlined. No labels or tags in garment. c) Hat. Black with beading and silver and shells, with red decorations and pendant parts d) Belt. Black cotton(?) belt formed as a rectangle, upper and side edges straight, lower edge gently scalloped to form points at center front and at sides. Belt is edged with border of small blue/green, brownish/tan seeds, with two horizontal bands of same seeds running across belt. Between bands of seeds are bands of silver-colored cabochon discs. Just above each point is a star-burst made of oval white beads/seeds, colored beads, and a cowrie(?) shell. From each point hangs 3 beaded pendants with a bell at end of each. Belt secures with black ties. No labels or tags. ca. 35 1/2" long w/out ties; 5" wide w/out fringe/pendants. e & f) Over-sleeves. Detachable sleeves formed as two 15 1/2" long fabric cylinders, slightly wider at top than cuff, which slide over sleeves of jacket. The cylinders are made of horizontal bands of different woven patterned fabrics of primarily pinks with green, white, and orange decorations, sewn together, with alternating bands of red cloth with applied rick-rack in blue, white, green, yellow, pink, etc., each with silver threading. Sleeves are lined with a printed white fabric with blue linear stripe/band designs. No labels or tags in garment. g) Bag of black cotton, embellished with embroidery, bead-work, silver discs, and a single coin. Long black cotton strap. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc277094/
Hanbok
Korean Hanbok. A) Jeogori (Jacket) of white and red damask patterned with floral motifs. Short, cropped white damask top with deep V neckline lined in red damask. Long sleeves, widening towards fore-arm and then curved to wrist. Under-arm area and cuff of the red damask. Center front opening secured with one hidden snap and two long ties of red damask. Lined in thin white fabric. No labels in garment. B) Chima (Skirt) of red damask matching the Jeogori. Full-length, wrap-style garment. Thin white straps to go over shoulders support wide upper band into which the body of the skirt is gathered. Ties at back with ties of red damask. Lined in dark red fabric. No labels in garment. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc277082/
Hat
Hat of black wool felt with attached scarf of black jersey wool. Wide, slightly asymmetrical brim. Domed crown with narrow headband of same which crosses in back and trails to edge of brim. Unlined with black grosgrain ribbon inner headband. Stamp on inside crown: "Made in Poland / Tally-Ho / Pollak Imp Ex Corp / 100% Wool" Retailer's label on inside headband: "Saks Fifth Avenue" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286826/
Pillbox Hat
Pillbox hat of black jersey. The cylindrical crown has a flat, slightly recessed top, and bands of black silk ribbon decoration applied horizontally around sides. Upper and lower bands are of plain layered ribbon forming slightly molded bands, while central band is of twisted/folded/worked ribbon creating a dimensional braided pattern. Hat is lined in black satin, with inner black grosgrain ribbon hatband and a single small faux turtle shell comb to help secure it to wearer's head. Designer's label: "Givenchy / Paris" "Made in / France" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc305376/
Pumps
Pair of pumps of pale gray/green satin. Plain uppers with applied oval panel of multicolored floral brocade simulating embroidery at vamp, within a metal twist/rope frame, as a decorative buckle. Low modified Louis heel covered in same fabric. Brand stamp: "Pietro / Last" Retailer's label: "Neiman Marcus" Handwritten inside: "7B 4872 / 699320A" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114964/
Pumps
Pumps of pink, yellow, orange, and white plaid synthetic fabric. The shoes have rounded toes and a 2" high square chunky heel. On top of each shoe, across instep/vamp, are two self fabric covered martial cords twisted together with gold ends. Designer label: "Lily Shoes / Walk with Comfort" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc115028/
Shoes
Pair of shoes of ivory leather and black patent leather. Made in the "spectator" style, the rounded toe-box, the 4" high blocky heel, and the lower part of the heel upper are of black patent leather, while the rest of the upper is of ivory leather. The black patent leather panels are decorated with white stitching along the edges. Lined in brown leather. Designer label: "Xavier Danaud / Paris" Handwritten inside: "7 1/2 B 2019" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc87064/
Pumps
Pair of heeled pumps of brown silk. Designed with slightly pointed toe and platform, the instep is crossed by a gold chain with squared links which extends back along outside of foot to near heel. Heel covered with same fabric, tapering slightly to base. Designer's label: "Roger Vivier / Paris" These shoes were made to match a dress by Givenchy. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114950/
Coat
Coat of silk gazar with a printed pattern of red and white polka dots on a black background. The mid-length to below-knee length coat has a rolled collar and short sleeves with princess seaming. There is a center-front opening with 5 circular buttons covered with black gazar, and with piped buttonholes. At some seams are applied whole red or white polka dots where the seams had "cut" printed polka dots. Coat has designer's label at inside back, below collar: "Givenchy", folded over and sewn in a way that obscures the rest of the label: "Made In / France". This coat is part of an ensemble that includes a dress of black gazar, and has matching shoes of same fabric made by Roger Vivier of Paris (1979.011.076) Donor notes: "This is the fabric that was invented for Balenciaga and now only Givenchy can have it .... [the coat] is made so that if a dot had to be cut in half at a noticeable place, Givenchy had a whole dot appliqued over it. Monsieur Givenchy does not do this tedious handwork for all clients." digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30166/
Dress
Dress of bright green chiffon printed with multi-color shapes and with all-over scattered sequins and beading. The full-length A-line sheath has a round neckline with beaded band trim at neckline. The long sleeves have five non-functioning beaded buttons at wrist, and five hidden snap closures from wrist. The dress has an attached underdress of matte silk printed with same design as the overdress. The garment is fully lined with cream silk which has woven into it a repeated pattern of Hanae Mori's name. The underdress has a zipper closure at center back from neckline to above waist. The overdress has a series of hidden snaps to conceal the zipper, and a line of eight beaded buttons matching those on the sleeves, also non-functional. A single hook-and-loop closure at neck secures the top of the garment. The printed design includes circles, flowers, and fluid lines and triangles in shades of pink, yellow, blue, orange, and violet. The sequins are clear, and are secured with tiny colored beads, the colors of which match the color of the dress they are sewn over. Sewn inside dress at back at left of zipper is designer label: "[Japanese characters] / Hanae Mori" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30156/
Handbag
Clutch handbag of patent leather in small oval shape. Gold tone closure of three rings in bamboo pattern. Tuckable gold herringbone chain; 1/4" strap 30"long. Three interior compartments with black faille lining; 2 inner pocket, 1 with gold faille lining. Designer's stamp: "M M / Morris Moskowitz" Original maker's card in small black compartment; side 1: "M M / Morris Moskowitz"; side 2: This / Handbag is Made / Of Man Made / Materials" Measurements: 22cm L, 16cm H (with closure), 3cm W digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc330505/
Sling-Back Platform Pumps
Pair of sling-back platform pumps made of stripes of red, mustard yellow, green, and blue leather. Designed with a round toe, and thick platform sole, the open-toe shoes have a wide strap across instep to create vamp of shoe. Strap is of red, yellow, green, and blue leather, the stripes of which continue onto platform sole. Separate red leather sling-back strap wraps around ankle and fastens with a gold colored oval buckle. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc115016/
Dress
Dress of multi-colored velvets. The floor-length dress has an empire waist and bell-shaped long sleeves. The upper, bodice, section is made of a sheer, multi-colored fabric woven with bands of gold thread. Over the bodice is applied sections of burnout velvet in various colors, forming bands running up the bodice, over the shoulders, and down the back, another band forming a 1" high collar, and as 2" bands around each wrist. The sections are bordered in gold cording. The lower, skirt, section is of green velvet printed in browns, greens, and gold in an abstract geometric/organic design. Fully lined in green silk(?). Center back zipper from neckline to just above waist. Three hook-and-loop closures on collar. Designer label sewn alongside zipper at shoulder-blade height at right: "Ronald Amey / New York". Evidence of removed label at inside, center front of dress below neckline. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30306/
Ensemble - Coat and Dress
Ensemble of printed silk. The full-length dress is of silk with a printed design of abstract flower forms in red, blue, purple, white, yellow and green on a black ground. It has a rounded neckline and long sleeves which have fabric covered snaps at the wrists. The bodice is seamed and fitted, and the skirt is slightly A-line, flaring to hem. Center back closure, top third is hook-and-eyes, the lower two-thirds is a zipper. The dress is fully lined in black silk. Designer's label sewn inside bodice near waist: "Givenchy". Underneath label is a second label with handwritten notation "48245". The matching coat is of the same print on a heavier weight silk. It is full-length, with a standing collar which has internal wiring for support. The sleeves are full-length, and it has a center front opening which secures with a single fabric-covered snap just below collar. The coat is unlined. Designer's label sewn inside coat at right near waist: "Givenchy". Underneath label is a second label with handwritten notation "48246" This ensemble was made for the donor to wear to the wedding of Maria del Carmen Martinez-Bordiu y Franco, (1951- ) granddaughter of General Franco, to Don Alfonso, Duke of Anjou and Cádiz (1936 - 1989), son of Infante Jaime of Spain, Duke of Segovia and grandson of King Alfonso XIII of Spain. The wedding took place in the chapel of El Pardo Palace, Madrid, on 8th March 1972. The donor noted: "It was designed by Monsieur Givenchy especially for me. Balenciaga was alive, though he had closed his house, and Givenchy consulted with him on this outfit. You can see Balenciaga's line to it. ... Givenchy had the two distinct fabrics printed in the same design -- one for dress and one for coat. He said it must look like the light shining through the stained glass windows of the Chapel." The ensemble has a matching pair of shoes by Roger Viver made of fabric in the same print. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30152/
Ensemble - Coat, Blouse, and Skirt
Ensemble. A) Coat of brown and white felted wool. Knee-length or longer, long set-in sleeves. Center front opening with 5 large circular brown plastic buttons with bound buttonholes. Main body of coat of pale brown and white check design, with cuffs, collar, and lower band of coat (about hips to hem) of light brown. Light brown and white check self tie belt. Side slit pockets. Lined in pale taupe. Designer's label at center back neckline: "Norell" Hand-written label just above designer's label: "Deborah 929" B) Blouse of cream wool jersey. Long sleeves, high standing collar. Center back zipper closure running almost entire length of garment, from top of collar to about 3" above hem. Hook & eye at top of collar. Collar lined in satin, the rest of the blouse is unlined. Not hemmed. Hand-written label sewn in at neckline: "Deborah 929" C) Skirt of brown wool tweed. Mid-length; slight A-line. Narrow, 1-1/2" waistband. Fully lined in brown silk(?). Center back zipper closure with large hook & eye on waistband. Hand-written label "Deborah 1929". D) Belt of brown leather with wide square, self-covered buckle. Two inches wide. Belt is attached to skirt with inner bands of leather to which loops from the skirt are sewn. Stamped on reverse: "26 Norman Norell 3736". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc330450/
Ensemble - Vest, Blouse and Skirts
Ensemble in blue and gold polyester consisting of mix and match component vest, blouses, skirts and belt. First image shows: a) Vest: A fitted, hip-length shell of blue and gold check polyester woven in a pattern of yellow/gold squares on a blue ground with thin white threading. It has a deep rounded neckline and nipped waist. The center front opening is secured with three chiffon covered snaps and has two bound button holes and two gold-tone metal buttons. The center front opening and the hem are faced with navy blue polyester embellished with three double rows of gold metallic running stitches. The vest is fully lined in blue silk. Designer's label is located inside center back, below the neckline: "Ronald Amey"; Retailer's label sewn in just above designer's: "Marie Leavell". b) Blouse: A fitted, hip-length shell of gold polyester with high rounded neckline, standing band collar and full-length set-in sleeves. The sleeves are accented with contrasting, circular ruffle cuffs of blue and gold check polyester, woven so that one side looks yellow/gold squares on a blue ground with thin white threading, and the other side of the ruffles looks like blue squares with thin white threading on a yellow/gold ground. The cuffs have a short placket opening secured with a loop and gold-tone metal button. The center front neckline is accented with a four-tiered ruffled jabot of blue and gold check polyester. The center back zipper closure extends from neck to hip, and is supplemented at the collar with two hook-and-eyes. The collar is faced with gold satin. Designer's label located inside at right side seam, at waist-level: "Ronald Amey / New York". c) Skirt: A flared, knee-length circular skirt in blue and gold check polyester, woven with blue squares with thin white threading on a yellow/gold ground. The wide waistband has a center back lapped opening secured with two loops and blue fabric covered buttons and a hidden snap. There is also a center back zipper closure extending from waist to hip level. It has side seam slit pockets which are lined in blue silk. The skirt is also fully lined in blue silk. Designer's label located inside right center back, beside the zipper: "Ronald Amey / New York". The second image shows: a) Vest, described above. b) Skirt: A full-length semi-circular skirt in blue and gold check polyester woven to appear as yellow/gold squares on a ground of blue with thin white threading. The wide waistband has a lapped center back opening secured with two loops and clear plastic buttons. There is also a center back zipper closure extending from waist to hip level. The skirt has deep, side seam inverted pleat details. Side seam slit pockets are lined in blue silk. It has a turned, bound hem, and is fully lined in blue silk. Designer's label is located inside right center back beside the zipper: "Ronald Amey / New York". Not in photo are two other parts to the ensemble, a second blouse and a belt/cummerbund. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30187/
Hat
Hat of brown felt. Designed somewhat like a cloche, the domed crown is encircled at the base by a folded-over band of brown grosgrain ribbon tied at side, with a "pouf" of white, green, black and taupe feather. Fairly narrow brim, which is folded over and sewn down at edge, is turned up at front and left, down at right and back. The hat is unlined, with a dark brown grosgrain ribbon inner hatband. Designer's label: "Don Kline" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc87073/
Pumps
Pair of pumps of aqua blue and white printed peau de soie silk. Shoe is designed with a gently pointed toe, and thick heel that tapers to base. Shoe upper is of white silk printed with pale blue abstract pattern. Designer's label stamped inside: "Roger Viver / Paris" Stamped inside: "sur mesure" Handwritten inside: "4170" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114940/
Pumps
Pair of cream pumps. Designed with rounded toe, the shoes are of a cream mesh with embroidered with floral motifs, giving a lace effect. The high heel is covered in cream satin, and tapers to base. Stamped inside: "Arsho for / Shoe Biz" Stamped on soles: "Leather / Leder / Cuir / Made in Spain" and "7 1/2 B" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114763/
Belly Dancer's Costume - Banjara Peoples of India
Bustier of a belly dancer's costume from the Banjara peoples of India. The bra-top of black cotton is embellished at front with silver coins and trimmed in multicolored cross stitch embroidery, mirror work, and Kangura patchwork appliqué. Plain black straps extend over shoulders and around back to tie. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc277154/
Beret
Beret style hat of crocheted black cording with golden flakes. Unlined. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286808/
Breton Hat
Hat in breton style of burnt ochre straw with burnt ochre grosgrain ribbon bow at back on brim. Style can also be referred to as pamela, halo or madeline. Wide upward brim with alternating narrow bands of flat straw. Unlined with ochre grosgrain headband. Designer's label on inside headband: " An Original / by Dajon / New York" Size tag to left of designer's label: "22 1/2" Union label: "565660" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc276973/
Breton Hat
Hat in breton style of gray straw with gray grosgrain ribbon bow edged with gray straw at back of high, upturned brim. Style can also be referred to as pamela, halo or madeline. Unlined with gray grosgrain headband. Designer's label on inside hatband: "Valerie / Modes" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc276978/
Cap
Cap of ocher/dark yellow wool. Designed somewhat as a "watch cap", the hat has a high domed crown, which folds up at bottom to extends back upwards almost the entire height of the crown. Spaced top-stitching along upper edge. Unlined. Designer's label inside: "Adolfo II / New York Paris" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286911/
Cloche
Cloche of brown/rust/beige crochet. The cloche is of openwork crochet, with a high, domed crown, having a wide band at lower edge that is solid crochet. Unlined. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286865/
Coat
Sleeveless coat of navy on white zebra printed wool. The street-length coat is of slight A-line, widening to hem. It has wide straps, no collar, and center front opening with 5 circular dark blue plastic buttons. At each hip is a patch pocket with simulated flap, the fabric of the pockets chosen to match the placement on the print. The coat is fully lined in navy fabric. Inside neckline at back is designer's label "Givenchy", folded so that "Made In / France" is not visible. This coat is part of an ensemble that includes a blue wool jersey knit top and slacks. Donor noted that it was "Made for Monte Carlo for day wear". There is also a hat that was worn with the ensemble (1978.013.062) digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30151/
Dress
A) Dress of bright multicolor patterned translucent chiffon. The full-length dress has a straight, sheath shape, with a jewel neckline and long handkerchief-style sleeves which extend past hem and open at forearm. The sheath is two layers of fabric with the pattern skillfully aligned, while the sleeves are one. Centered zipper at center back, slip-stitched in, extending from neckline to just below waist, with a single hook-and-eye closure at neckline. Both layers are folded up into a 4" hem and blind hemmed in. Side seams are french-seamed, the arm scythe is a 1/4" hand-rolled seam, with the joining seam not at underarm, but the side back. Sleeve edges have a 1/8" narrow rolled hem. The CB seam was sewn with the wrong sides together, then the seam was turned right side out, encasing the raw edges, then the new edges were sewn at a 3/4" SA coming to a point right before the vent and the second layer acts as a facing. The printed pattern of the material includes concentric shapes with geometric and floral influences. Designer label sewn inside back to left of zipper: "Pierre Cardin / Paris New York" B) Black thin satin ribbon belt with a snap and hook under permanent bow. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc283727/
Dress
a) Dress of purple, gold and silver metallic threaded lace over purple polyester gauze lining. Round neckline with keyhole opening. Front closure with snaps and hook & eyes. Knee-length. Short sleeved and gathered waist. Lined in purple silk. Designer's label at back neckline: "Oscar de La Renta" Union label at base of front opening with size "10" label attached. Retailer's label at hem: "Neiman-Marcus" b) Belt of purple suede with leaf and pinwheel design painted in gold and silver. Double-tongued buckle. Backing of black leather. Stamp on back of buckle: "10 237" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc283702/
Dress
Dress of bright multi-color patterned chiffon. The full-length dress has a straight, loose shape, with a round neckline and long handkerchief-style sleeves which extend past hem. Zipper at center back, extending from neckline to just below waist, with a single hook-and-eye closure at neckline. The printed pattern of the material includes concentric shapes with geometric and floral influences. Designer label sewn inside back to left of zipper: "Pierre Cardin / Paris New York" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30208/
Dress
Dress of polychrome cotton print. The floor-length dress is of cotton fabric with a raised "zig-zag" texture, in the style of cotton piqué weaving. It is printed with a series of horizontal bands in geometric designs in blues, reds, greens, tan/brown, orange, and purple. The sleeveless dress has a shallow boat neckline in front and deep squared-off neckline at back. The fitted bodice section ends at the natural waist, into which the long skirt is slightly gathered. The front of the skirt has two patch pockets of the same material, with the print matched to disguise the pockets. One of the lower bands of the skirt is embellished with applied non-functional circular gold-colored "buttons". The hem of the dress has a 7 cm. wide band horizontal band of red wool trim, from which hangs red wool fringe. The center back zipper closure has a single hook-and-eye at top. The dress is lined in red fabric. The dress has two labels sewn inside. At left side at seam is designer's label "Lanvin / Paris New York"; at right side near zipper is size label "6". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30013/
Dress
Dress. Bodice of dress is made of chiffon with printed pattern of pink, red, green, blue, and purple swirls and bands and stylized foliage, woven with gold metallic threads forming paisley designs throughout bodice. Slight standing ring collar. The collar, waistband, cuffs, and bands running from collar along shoulders and down to cuffs are all trimmed with wide bands of gold braid/cording. The knee-length skirt is of red velour printed with large floral pattern in pink, purple, yellow, and dark maroon/brown. Reverse box pleat at center front, and zipper closure along back of garment, with three large gilt filigree buttons at collar. Cuffs also have 3 gilt buttons on each, with hidden snap closure. Dress is lined in pink fabric. Designer's label sewn inside bodice: "Ronald Amey / New York". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30188/
Dress
Dress of navy blue silk chiffon. The full-length dress is sleeveless, with narrow straps extending across shoulders and meeting at center of the 2 1/2" wide A-line band at neckline. The straps and neckline band are covered with faux jewels. From the band drops the long A-line skirt of finely-pleated silk chiffon, which conceals a narrow sheath dress underneath. This dress is similar in style to one produced for Halley's 1967 collection. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30317/
Dress
Dress of printed cotton. The floor-length dress is of cotton with a printed geometric design of a lattice of black rectangles on white background. It is sleeveless, with black spaghetti straps. There is a wide black "belt" of "quilted" cotton just below the bust, with a bow in front. The dress has a center back zipper closure with two hook-and-eye closures at top. It is fully lined in thin white fabric. The designer's label is sewn inside bodice: "Clifton / Wilhite / Dallas"; a second label is sewn just below designer's label: "Lot 6464 Size 14" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30236/
Dress
Dress. Full-length sleeveless evening dress of printed silk. The bodice has a rounded neckline, bust darts, and widens slightly at hips. The silk print on the bodice is of horizontal stripes of black, yellow, green, and red. The skirt starts at a dropped waist, and is a slight "A" line in form. The printed on the skirt is of an Op Art pattern of pink, red, black, green, and purple squares and circles within squares, and with two large black squares, one on front and one on back. Black band at hem. The dress has a center back zipper closure and is lined in black silk. It has an accompanying black silk belt, 2" wide, with two domed buttons covered in black silk as closures. The dress has two labels sewn inside at back collar, to right of zipper. Maker's label: "Axel / of Denmark / 42" and second tag "Pure silk / by D'Este" [care instructions pictographs] and on reverse [care instructions pictographs] "Made in / Italy". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30233/
Dress
Dinner dress of printed silk organza. The dress is composed of two parts. The caftan-like outer layer of the dress consists of a square silk organza cocoon printed in psychedelic motifs in purples, blues, pinks and chartreuse. It has a high rounded neckline with center back opening secured with six loops and covered buttons. There are applied flat cuffs at the wrist openings and waist-level slits at center front to accommodate the sash. There is a center front slit from hem to knee-level. The inner dress is a matching, full-length, sleeveless sheath in printed silk of the same design. It has a high rounded neckline with center back zipper closure from neck to hip with a single hook-and-eye closure at the neckline. The outer caftan and inner sheath are joined at the neckline. There is a printed silk organza sash of the same fabric that meets at center front and secures with two hook-and-eye closures and has self ties to disguise closure. The sash is swing tacked at the back. There is a center front slit from the hem to knee-level. Lime green silk panels are inset at sideseams, running from the underarm to the hem, and may be later additions to the garment. The dress is fully lined in green silk crepe. Designer's label located inside left center back, beside the zipper: Pierre Cardin / Paris New York". Retailer's label located inside right center back, beside the zipper: "Maisonette / Neiman-Marcus" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30265/
Dress
A) Dress of yellow wool knit. Full-length. Mandarin collar, with ends stitched down to form slight collar points. Center front opening with 17 self-covered circular buttons and bound button holes, two buttons non-functional due to sewn-down collar, and one extra button hole at top in collar, but no button. Long or 3/4 length sleeves. Two large patch pockets at front hips. Lined in yellow silk. Designer's label: "Norman Norell / New York" B) Tie belt of same fabric. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc402531/
Dress
Dress of navy blue wool knit. The mid-length dress has a contrasting red wool knit mandarin collar and long sleeves with red wool knit cuffs. Mandarin collar is stitched down at ends. There are two large patch pockets at front, and a center front closure with twelve circular mother-of-pearl buttons mounted with gold-colored metal rims. The buttonholes are bound with the contrasting red wool knit. The dress has an attached wide red wool knit belt/sash which ties at waist in front. Fully lined in dark navy blue silk. Designer's label inside of skirt, underneath lining, at side seam: "Norman Norell / New York" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc461824/
Dress
Dress of navy blue wool knit. The mid-length dress has a contrasting red wool knit mandarin collar and long sleeves with red wool knit cuffs. There are two large patch pockets at front. Center front closure with twelve circular mother-of-pearl buttons mounted with gold-colored metal rims and shanks. The buttonholes are bound with the contrasting red wool knit. The dress has an attached wide red wool knit belt/sash which ties at waist in front. The dress is fully lined in dark navy blue silk. Designer's label inside lining of skirt at side seam: "Norman Norell / New York" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc461788/
Dress and Jacket Ensemble
Ensemble of burgundy crepe a) Jacket is hip-length, and has round collar; bodice opens at center front, and has wide waistband that fastens with 2 self-buttons and loops. Gathered into waistband is peplum with circular ruffle; long sleeves are gathered at armhole have circular ruffles going down and around sleeves; b) Dress is below-knee-lenght, and has low V-neck formed by wide shoulder straps which button to lower back of dress; set-in empire waistline; sleeveless; bias cut skirt; zipper at left side back. Designer's label: "Ossie Clark / Paris" "Made in France" Handwritten style label: "59115 - 38 - 97727/19.92" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286918/
Ensemble - Dress and Jacket
Ensemble consisting of a dress and jacket of brown and white printed silk plaid or tartan. The waist-length jacket has a turn-down collar and wrist-length sleeves. It is single-breasted with a center front opening with four large circular brown plastic buttons and piped buttonholes. The jacket is fully lined in off-white silk. Designer's label located inside below center back of collar: "Made in / France / Givenchy". The matching dress is mid-length, to just below the knee, with round neck and princess seaming. It is sleeveless, and has box pleats at lower part of skirt. There is a zipper closure at left side. The dress is lined with off-white silk throughout with the exception of the box pleated area. Designer's label at inside side seam near right armhole: "Givenchy". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30165/
Evening Gown
Black and white printed silk chiffon evening gown with belt and scarf. A) Dress: formal evening gown in black on white. op-art printed silk chiffon with a predominant bullseye motif. Empire bodice with moderate front scooped neckline and plunging back scooped neckline. Full-length. set-in. flared chiffon sleeves. The bodice is heavily embroidered with black and white bugle beads repeating the bullseye motif. Centerback zipper closure from mid-back to hipline. Empire waistseam with semi-fitted. full-length. black on white. op-art printed. heavy silk underskirt with gathered. printed "bullseye" chiffon overskirt. The bodice is lined in white rayon faille. The skirt is lined in white rayon with the logo "Mori Hanea" woven into the fabric. Turned and bound hem. Designer's label sewn inside at back: "[Japanese characters] / Hanae Mori" Retailer's label at inside back: "Neiman-Marcus" Manufacturer label at inside back: "RN 35995 / Out Cloth Silk 100% / Lining Rayon 100% / Made in Japan / Dry Cleaning only" B) Belt: matching black on white printed silk chiffon belt. Black leather backing. Square. covered. functional buckle. Tension closure. C) Scarf: Matching black on white printed silk chiffon scarf. Long rectangular scarf with rolled hem. One side has a torn and missing portion. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30262/
Evening Pumps
Evening pumps of mint green satin. The shoes are designed with a gently pointed toe and plain upper. Across instep is band of rhinestones, clear beads, and simulated pearl teardrop pendants. The stiletto heel is covered in same fabric. Designer's label stamped inside: "Salvatore / Ferragamo / Florence / Italy" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114933/
Evening Pumps
Pair of evening pumps of pale blue and gold floral forms brocade. Designed with pointed toes, the shoes have uppers of of blue and gold brocade with large circular gold colored metal disc at vamp, set with rhinestones, and with a wide ribbon of same brocade extending from beneath the button to outside edge. 2 1/2" high modified Louis heel is covered with same brocade and tapers to base. Designer's stamp inside: "Roger Vivier / Paris" and "sur mesure" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114935/
Hat
Hat of beige felt. Styled somewhat as a fedora, the cylindrical crown has a sunken, flat crown. Around the base of the crown is a wide band of golden satin ribbon, and narrow cords of gold, bronze, and silver. All tie at back, the cords becoming tassels. The wide brim curves up at front and left, down to right and back. The hat is unlined, with a wide inner hatband of pale peach. Combined Designer/Retailer's label: "Original / Helen Smith / Marshall Field Annex - Chicago" Manufacturer's stamp for felt body: "Merrimac / Merrivale / Fur Felt" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc87077/
Hat
Hat of purple felt. Designed to appear as a beret, the hat has a low crown, folded and somewhat crushed, with parts extending out as a brim in front and a "wing" at side. No real brim, but the extensions of the crown simulate one. Curled around the "wing" is a band of metallic thread and beading braid. Unlined. With purple grosgrain inner hatband, and a black elastic cord to help secure hat to wearer's head. Maker's label: "Parkridge / Exclusives" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286902/
Hat
Hat of dark brown velvet. Somewhat styled as a "slouch hat", the slightly conical crown is flattened at top, and is embellished with concentric bands of top-stitching. Crown is encircled at base by a narrow band of taupe grosgrain ribbon, and has an ornament on right side consisting of a vertical 14" pheasant feather and various other brown and white feathers at base forming a "pouf". The wide brim is slightly wavy, turns down to edge, and is similarly embellished with concentric bands of top-stitching. The crown is lined in a steel gray satin, and has a steel gray grosgrain ribbon inner hatband. Designer's label: "Adolfo / New York Paris" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286789/
Hat
Hat of red felt. Hat has a high, domed crown of smooth red felt. Around the base of the crown is a wide hatband made of a mosaic of various types and colors of feathers. At one side is a cluster of ostrich and spotted feathers forming a pom-pom, with one long curling brown striped extending up and back. The wide felt brim is somewhat asymmetrical, and curves down except for near the pom-pom, where it waves upwards. Inside, at base of crown, is red grosgrain ribbon band. Sewn to the inner ribbon band are two labels. Designer's label: "Adolfo / New York Paris"; Retailer's label: "Amen Wardy / El Paso Texas" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc286869/
Hatlet
Hatlet of white beadwork. Base of hatlet is an irregularly shaped openwork skullcap of stiffened white mesh completely covered in white beads. Surmounting the cap are three 3-dimensional bow forms made of white beads. Hatlet has black mesh veiling, with scattered pairs of white beads worked into some intersections. Cap lined with stiffened white mesh. At either side are attached small plastic combs to secure hatlet to wearer's head. Designer's label: "Bes-Ben / Made in Chicago" Gift of John C. Murphy, through the Chicago Historical Society. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc38072/
Hatlet
Hatlet of red beads. Crown of the hatlet is composed of an irregular skullcap of stiffened red mesh covered with red beads. Set atop the the hatlet are three large e-dimentional "bow" shapes composed of the red beads. The hatlet has a red net veil. Under the skullcap are attached two small plastic combs to secure the hatlet to wearer's head. Designer's Label: "Bes-Ben / Made in Chicago" Gift of Mrs. John M. (Patricia) Wyle. Worn by Mrs. Joseph M. Finn of Chicago, Illinois. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc38097/