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  Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
 Country: France
 Decade: 1950-1959
 Collection: Texas Fashion Collection
Cloche

Cloche

Date: 1959
Creator: Heim, Roger
Description: Cloche hat of tan milan straw. The high crown is slightly dished, and narrows to brim, with wide band of tan/very pale green grosgrain ribbon at base with large "bow" at side. The straw brim is down-turned. The crown has an inner brown grosgrain ribbon hatband. Designer's label sewn to inner hatband: "Roger Heim / Made in France Paris", and retailer's ribbon sewn just above designer's label: "Made in France for / Neiman-Marcus".
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Cocktail Dress

Cocktail Dress

Date: 1959
Creator: Saint Laurent, Yves
Description: Cocktail dress of beige wool crepe with faux black Astrakhan. The below-knee-length dress has a slight cowl neckline and bloused effect on the bodice and short sleeves. The full skirt is cartridge pleated into a wide band of black wool faux Astrakhan at slightly dropped waist. Dress has center back zipper on lining, connecting to outside of dress at waistline; blouse portion closes at center back with 8 covered snaps and 3 hook-and-eyes on neckline. Lined in cream organdy. Designer's label at center back seam: "Christian Dior - New York, Inc." Retailer's label to left of designer's label: "Neiman-Marcus" Union label on side of seam opposite retailer's label.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Pumps

Pumps

Date: 1959
Creator: Evins, David
Description: Pumps of deep brown alligator leather. The shoes are designed with pointed toes, rounded at tips. The high, modified French heels taper from top to bottom, flaring slightly at base. Designer's stamp in both shoes: "Design par / Evins ... à Paris" Handwritten maker's notation in each: "FR 131A / 7AA" Handwritten notation: "#41821"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Ensemble - Jacket and Dress

Ensemble - Jacket and Dress

Date: 1958
Creator: Saint Laurent, Yves
Description: Ensemble of a dark grey wool mohair consisting of: A) Jacket in boxed style. Single breasted with three large, circular, horn buttons and bound buttonholes; notched collar. Bracelet length, set-in sleeves. Lined in dark gray silk. Designer's label at inside center back neckline: "Made in France / Boutique / Christian Dior / Paris " and stamped on label: "10118" B) Dress. Sleeveless, with shallow, wide rounded neckline. Natural waist with an A-line over skirt and with under skirt of dark gray silk and 7" hemline of matching wool creating a tiered or multi-layer look. Center back zipper with hook & eye. Skirt lined in dark gray silk and bodice lined in black organza with black grosgrain ribbon petersham and black silk noil support structure.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Evening Dress

Evening Dress

Date: 1958
Creator: Dior, Christian
Description: Evening dress of black and white satin. Long torso fitted top. Sleeveless, with wide boat neck of black satin. Zipper down the back. Full harem skirt of black, white, and grey striped and dotted silk with one large black satin bow at hip line and another bow of same at the hem of the short, "balloon" style skirt. Designer's label at left inside seam: "Boutique / Christian Dior / Paris" and "Made in France".
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Evening Ensemble

Evening Ensemble

Date: 1958
Creator: Balenciaga, Cristóbal
Description: Evening ensemble consisting of gold brocade evening gown trimmed in white mink with matching coat and detachable train. A) Evening coat of gold brocade. Ballerina length with short, dolman sleeves. Banded neckline. Center front opening is cutaway in front below waist and tapers to hem. Lined in gold metallic organdy. B) Evening dress of gold brocade with white mink fur trim at the neckline and hips. Full length with princess seaming and slight A-line to skirt. Scooped back. Fur trim around neckline and back goes over shoulders to form straps of dress. Center back zipper. Belt of fur at hips closes in back the 3 covered hook & eyes. Skirt lined in white tulle. Bodice is boned and lined in white netting and closes in back with hook & eyes. Designer's Label: "Balenciaga / 10 Avenue George V Paris" Model label behind designer's label: "74184" C) Detachable train of gold brocade. Train is rectangular in shape and gathers into smocking where it attaches to back of dress with snaps and hook & eyes. Floor length. Unlined.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Gown

Gown

Date: 1958
Creator: Balenciaga, Cristóbal
Description: a) Gown of pale pink tulle heavily hand embroidered in pink flowers with silver metallic thread, sequins and rhinestones. Strapless with full-length, A-line skirt. Underskirt of ivory stiffened silk and lined in ivory silk. b) Scarf of matching pale pink tulle. c) Original pink satin ribbon sash/belt d) Replacement modern pink satin ribbon sash/belt
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Day Dress

Day Dress

Date: 1957/1970
Creator: Laroche, Guy
Description: Day dress in sheath style of turquoise blue wool knit. Knee-length, with short sleeves and banded collar. Diagonal, 2" welt pockets at side hips. Center back opening of 7 circular turquoise plastic buttons with bound buttonholes, two snaps at neckline, and two hook & eyes on collar. Lined in white synthetic. Designer's label at back neckline: "Modèle / Guy Laroche / Paris / Diffusé Par Maria Carine / Made in France" Handwritten style number label below designer label: "LR E6531 Rapp(?) 8" Retailer's(?) label at right side seam is cut: "i.m. / Made in France"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Skirt Suit

Skirt Suit

Date: 1957
Creator: Balenciaga, Cristóbal
Description: Charcoal gray wool two-piece suit. (a) Jacket: Fitted jacket of gray diamond twill wool; V-neckline with notched collar and peaked lapels; full-length, two piece, set in sleeves; lapped center front opening with two round, black, plastic buttons and bound buttonholes with snaps between buttons; fronts have shoulder and waist darts; two pairs of faux pocket flaps with buttons on fronts at bust and hip; back has low-slung, self fabric belt buttoned on above two faux vents at hem; fully lined in gray silk. (b) Skirt: Matching princess line, knee length skirt with narrow rolled waistband; straight hip yoke all around; inverted box pleat falls from yoke at center back; offset left side back zipper closure supplemented by one hook&eye closure on waistband; hem is faced with gray silk; fully lined in gray silk.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Calotte Hat

Calotte Hat

Date: 1956
Creator: Balenciaga, Cristóbal
Description: Calotte hat of brown velvet. One hatpin with black, avocado shaped head. Brim and top center seam meet to form V-shaped opening. Designer's label on inside hat band: "Balenciaga Hats . Paris" Retailer's label beneath designer's label: "Neiman-Marcus / Salon"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Coat Dress

Coat Dress

Date: 1956
Creator: Dior, Christian
Description: Coat dress of white textured silk; fitted back and loose draped front ending over left bust line with long flange to hem. Designer's Label at inside center back below collar " Printemps - Ete 1956 / Christian Dior / Paris / Made in France" and stamped on label: "789[(?) last number is illegible]"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Cocktail Dress

Cocktail Dress

Date: 1956
Creator: Dior, Christian
Description: Cocktail dress of yellow lace and organza. The strapless, knee-length dress is of yellow inlay Spanish lace, with a slim line skirt that gathers at empire waist. It has a center back zipper with hook & eye closure at top. The bodice has a built-in corset-like support of boning and white net with white grosgrain ribbon waist band, the whole securing at back with 8 hook & eye closures. Lined in yellow silk. A removable, wide band of pleated yellow organza with tapered ends embellished with matching lace appliqués attaches with hooks and eyes at the waist of the dress, giving the effect of a narrow stole. The dress also has an accompanying very large matching yellow organza stole/wrap with matching lace appliqués at each end.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Ensemble - Blouse and Skirt

Ensemble - Blouse and Skirt

Date: 1956
Creator: Dior, Christian
Description: Ensemble of navy ribbed silk. A) Blouse in New Look style with V-shaped neckline and 1" collar. Elbow length sleeves with 1" folded cuffs. Center front opening with hook & eye closure. Patch pockets at side hips. Unlined; petersham of black grosgrain ribbon with hook & eye. Designer's label at left side seam: "Christian Dior Original / Made In U.S.A. / Christian Dior-New York Inc." B) Skirt of matching silk. Street length, A lined with pleats at 1" waistband. Center back zipper. Unlined.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Ensemble - Jacket and Dress

Ensemble - Jacket and Dress

Date: 1956
Creator: Dior, Christian
Description: Ensemble of printed silk. This cocktail or dinner ensemble in the "New Look" consists of a dress and bolero-style jacket of printed floral ikat silk with a black ground and floral design in gray, browns and dark brown/mauve shades. A) The dress is mid-calf-length, sleeveless, and with a boat neckline. Tailored to fit, with side bust and waist darts. Self fabric bow at top of waist gore which releases into a box pleat at the skirt. Slightly dropped waist. Under the sides of front box pleat edges are two knife pleats to create fullness, with darts for slimmer waist. On either side of front bock pleat is a small 1"intake pleat to balance fullness of skirt. Side seams have a lapping box pleat and an small triangular insert from front side seams. Back waist has 4 sets of box pleats, two on either side of center back zipper closure. The dress has built-in under-structure consisting of inner half-slip of off-white satin, and three layers of stiffened netting petticoats, all with horsehair braid at hem. B) The matching jacket is of the same cloth, cropped short in the bolero style. The center-front opening has no closures and is collarless. Raglan style ...
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Hat

Hat

Date: 1956
Creator: Balenciaga, Cristóbal
Description: Hat of white organza. High pillbox crown, 4" deep. Bottom edge of crown encircled with 3" wide bias organdy that ties in large bow at center front. Lined in white silk with white grosgrain ribbon inner headband. Covered wires at sides for securing hat to wearer's head.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Hat

Hat

Date: 1956
Creator: Balenciaga, Cristóbal
Description: Suit hat of black velour. Rounded 4" deep crown. 2" wide front upward turned brim. 1/2" wider at sides, turning downward at center back. Has large black ostrich feather tassel at center back. Lined in netting with gray grosgrain ribbon inner headband. Comb at center front for securing hat to wearer's head.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Hat

Hat

Date: 1956
Creator: Balenciaga, Cristobal
Description: Red leaf hat. Rounded conical hat of netting partly covered with red and pink silk leaves. Inside the hat, which has aspects of both a cloche and a toque, at the base of the crown, is a band of red grosgrain ribbon. Sewn into the ribbon band is designer's label: "Balenciaga / 10 Avenue George V Paris".
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Mushroom Hat

Mushroom Hat

Date: 1956
Creator: Balenciaga, Cristóbal
Description: Mushroom hat of red/orange baku straw. Uniquely cut crown is square with points at front and back. Four side panels are formed off of sides of square crown. Lined in white gauze material with red/orange grosgrain ribbon inner headband.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Mushroom Hat

Mushroom Hat

Date: 1956
Creator: Balenciaga, Cristóbal
Description: Cocktail mushroom hat of black silk gazar. Over-sized, with flat top and slightly downward turned 6" brim. Pillbox inner crown with black grosgrain inner headband.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Pillbox Hat

Pillbox Hat

Date: 1956
Creator: Balenciaga, Cristobal
Description: Pillbox hat covered with draped silk scarf of black with pink polka dot print. Knotted accent on back states "Balenciaga" on pink border with frayed ends.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Calotte

Calotte

Date: 1955
Creator: Daché, Lilly
Description: Hat of red satin and sequins. The hat is styled as a calotte (also spelled "calot") of dark red satin almost completely covered in sequined floral appliques. Irregular lower edge, following the outline of the appliques. Lined in black paper (?) and satin, and with an inner hatband of black grosgrain ribbon. A small stitched mark on the band indicates the front of the hat, and a small applied white ribbon bow is set at back. Designer's Label: "Lilly / Daché / Paris New York". Label is large, extending across the inside of the hat, the "Paris", most of "New" and all of "York" are cut off.
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Calotte Hat

Calotte Hat

Date: 1955
Creator: Dior, Christian
Description: Calotte style hat made of brown net covered with green silk leaves and violet rose buds. Designer's label on inside hatband: "Made in France / Christian Dior / Paris"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Cloche

Cloche

Date: 1955/1959
Creator: Schiaparelli, Elsa
Description: Cloche-style hat of off-white wool felt. The hat has a deep, cylindrical, domed crown of off-white or cream felt which extends downwards on one side. Around the crown is black zig-zag stitching, and on the side where the crown extends downwards is an applied strip of felt, looped, secured through a stiffened loop of red grosgrain ribbon. The hat is unlined, with a black grosgrain ribbon inner hatband. Sewn to inner ribbon band is maker's label: "Schiaparelli / Paris".
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
Cloche Hat

Cloche Hat

Date: 1955
Creator: Dior, Christian
Description: Cloche-style hat of blue/gray feathers. The crown of the hat is made of dark blue mesh overlaid with a mosaic of blue/gray feathers. Brimless, the lower edge of the crown arcs upwards at front and slightly in back. The hat is lined in the mesh, and has an inner hatband at the lower inside edge of the crown. Designer's label sewn to inner hatband: "Made In / France", "Christian Dior / Paris"
Contributing Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
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