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  Partner: UNT College of Visual Arts + Design
 Decade: 1940-1949
 Collection: Texas Fashion Collection
Cloche
Hat of cotton batik. Styled as a cloche-form turban, the domed crown is constructed of gathered/pleated and wrapped cotton fabric with batik design in beige/brown and blue on white ground. There is no brim. The hat is lined in cream satin, and has an inner hatband of brown grosgrain ribbon along the inside lower edge of the crown. Maker's label sewn to inner hatband: "Marcelle Rousseau / Dallas". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39089/
Hat
Headband covered with light blue feathers sprinkled with white rhinestones. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114912/
Hat
Hat of black fur felt. Wide crown covered with net printed with gold flowers and leaves. Wide black velvet ribbon as hatband with bow as trim. Narrow brim. Stamp on inside crown: "Turin / Genuine Fur Felt / Finest Quality Veld(?) / Made in Italy" Retailer's label on inside hatband: "Sanger's / Dallas" Manufacturer's label to right of retailer's label: "Cedar Crest / Original" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114916/
Suit
Street suit of gray wool. A daytime or street suit consisting of two pieces. A) Jacket, with squared padded shoulders, no collar, and long sleeves. Opening along the central front, the jacket has a series of 5 hook-and-eye closures, and has a band that extends from upper left, across opening, and secures through a wide loop just below the right shoulder. The jacket is lined in a peach/mauve silk. B) Skirt. The straight skirt was originally just below knee length, but has been lengthened by the addition of material almost matching the lining of the jacket. The skirt has a center back zipper closure. It is currently unlined, but has evidence of the alterations. Jacket: At center back of inside neckline is designer's label: "Gilbert / Original"; at right inside seam: "Frost Bros / San Antonio". Skirt: No labels, possibly removed. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30093/
Calotte Hat
Calotte style hat of shiny green straw with downward brim. Red and green feather trim. Rose veil with small chenille dots. Designer's label: "Ginette Robert / de Paris" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39196/
Calotte Hat
Calotte style hat of maroon straw trimmed with grosgrain ribbon. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114737/
Calotte Hat
Calotte of black straw cloth. White fabric rosebuds and daisies with green leaves form headband as trim over small brim in front. Edge of hat trimmed in black velvet. Black veil gathers to velvet ribbons on ends to form tie for securing hat to head. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114970/
Calotte Hat
Calotte style hat of navy blue wool felt. Right side extends with a strip of felt curling downward then upward to a point trimmed with a strand of pears, gold leaves, and blue/green bugle beads. Unlined with a blue grosgrain hatband. Designer's label on inside hatband: "Ginette Robert / de Paris" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114958/
Cartwheel Hat
Cartwheel hat of brown straw. Wide brimmed with open crown. Two accordion folded, brown grosgrain pieces of trim with trailing tail as decoration. Retailer's label: "Neiman-Marcus / Dallas" Union label attached to retailer's label. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114901/
Cartwheel Hat
Cartwheel hat of natural colored straw. Brim is wider in front than on back. Trimmed with hatband of wide, black grosgrain ribbon that forms bow in back. Edge of brim trimmed in black grosgrain. Unlined. Retailer's label on inside hatband: "Neiman-Marcus / Dallas" Union label number 852534 to left of retailer's label on inside hatband. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114902/
Ensemble - Jacket and Skirt
Ensemble consisting of jacket and skirt. The fitted black velvet jacket is encrusted with gold braid/ribbon in a lattice/trellis pattern over the entire surface, with added buttons, cabochons, beads, etc. lavishly sewn over the surface. The jacket has a no collar, and short capped sleeves. From the natural waist flares a peplum. The jacket has a center front closure of hooks-and-eyes. Unlined, it has built-in shoulder pads. No label in jacket. The accompanying straight skirt is full-length, of heavy black crepe. Center back zipper closure with hook-and-eye at waistband. Designer's label inside skirt at side seam: "Adrian / custom", along with a second label, typed on white grosgrain ribbon, sewn in: "Neiman Marcus 417 / Size 12". This garment reflects Adrian's celebration of the lifting of wartime restrictions on types and quantities of materials and trimmings that could be used in making clothes. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30229/
Hat
Hat of pink straw. The open crown is of woven pink straw, as is the wide oval brim. At the front of the hat is a cluster of artificial flowers in pink velvet and green fabric. The hat is unlined, with two inner hatbands of grosgrain ribbon at the base of the crown - one band pink, the other of cream. Designer's label sewn to inner hatband: "3410 Oak Lawn / Bernie A. Cahn / Dallas, Tex" Accompanied by a single short hatpin with a tan straw woven head. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39162/
Hat
Hat of gray felt. The cylindrical gray felt crown is very slightly domed, and is set off-center to the brim. The brim, of matching felt, turns up, forming a deep, steep-sided bowl around the crown. The edge of the brim turns in, and is sewn down forming a seam around the inside edge of the "bowl". At left front of the brim is a bow of matching felt. The hat is unlined, with an inner hatband of gray grosgrain ribbon around the inside base of the crown. Stamped inside the crown: "Body made in Italy". Maker's hand-sewn(?) label affixed to inner hatband: "Jo Bailey / Hats". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39237/
Hat
Hat of brown felt. The "safari-style" hat has a domed crown of brown felt, around the base of which is tied a thin band of matching felt, with bow and trailing ends at front. The brim, of matching felt, slopes downwards at front and turns upwards at back. The hat is unlined, with an inner hatband of red grosgrain ribbon around the inside base of the crown. Sewn to inner hatband is retailer's label: "Neiman-Marcus". Accompanied by one short hatpin with simulated black tear-drop pearl head. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39229/
Hat
Hat of black straw with small crown worn forward on head with under-chin strap. Brim is visor shaped in front and long on back; very narrow sides. Trimmed with triple bow trim on one side and pink feathers on the other. Designer's label: "Bernice / Charles / 711 Fifth Ave. / New York" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114827/
Hat
Black cartwheel hat. The low, domed crown and wide circular brim are made of black woven horsehair and stiff veiling, with wire to stiffen the edges. The brim is overlaid with a wider second brim of net and wire. Brim is off-center, wider at front of hat than back. Around base of crown is a band of black cording, tied into a bow at back and with trailing ends. The inside base of the crown is lined with black grosgrain ribbon. One pin with black head is with hat to secure it. Label sewn into inner band: "Sally Victor / 18 East 53rd St." A second label with handwritten number "1655" is sewn in near designer's label. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114813/
Hat
Toque style hat of raspberry wool felt knotted with light blue and raspberry terry cloth and folded under brim. Stamped inside crown: "Imperial / 100% Wool / Made in USA / Milford Wool / Hat Body Corp" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114816/
Hat
Modified pamela or madeline hat of black velvet. Low, flat crown with roll at black grosgrain ribbon as hatband. Wide, upturned brim with rolled edges. Lined in black fabric with black grosgrain inside hatband. Designer's label on inside hatband: "Sharon / Originals" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114960/
Picture Hat
Picture hat of black felt. The crown is formed as a bun, with puffed top, resembling a muffin, cinched in at the base by a visible satin string/stitch with trailing edge/tassel at back. The wide brim of matching felt curves downwards and undulates slightly, and has a decorative stitch near outer edge very slightly gathering the edge. Label sewn inside crown: "Made in America"; "John Frederics Inc. / New York" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39126/
Toque
Hat of green velvet. The toque style hat is formed as a high, cylindrical crown of olive and light green velvet in a tiny checkerboard pattern. The entire crown, including flattened top, has a small green rhinestone set in each of the light green squares of the checkerboard. At the front of the hat is a bow of olive green velvet. The entire hat is overlaid with an olive green veil/netting. The hat is lined with green satin, and has an inner hatband of dark olive green grosgrain ribbon inside the base of the crown. Sewn to the inner hatband is manufacturer's label: "Paris / Gardner / New York". The hat is accompanied by a single short hatpin with faux pearl head. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39193/
Cartwheel Hat
Cartwheel hat of black velvet with small, flat crown. Wide brim is covered with black feathers radiating from crown. Elastic band for securing hat to wearer's head. Designer's label: "Edward Paine / New York" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114892/
Fedora Hat
Fedora style hat of brown felt with brown satin ribbon as trim around crown. Unlined. Retailer's label: "Knox / New York" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114913/
Hat
Hat of red felt. The crown is of red felt, with sloping sides, and a a recessed flat top center panel. The wide brim is also of red felt, overlaid with a wide pleated band of red grosgrain ribbon which is attached by an inter-woven thin band of the red felt. The hat is unlined, with an inner red grosgrain ribbon hatband inside the base of the crown, and with a bow of red felt at the back, underside, of the brim. A thin black elastic cord is attached to the inner band, to secure hat to wearer's head. Designer's label sewn to inner hatband: "Edward Paine / New York" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39158/
Hat
Bandeau style hat of black fox fur with black velvet ribbon ties and velvet lining. Retailer's label: "Saks - Fifth Avenue / Custom Made" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114850/
Calotte Hat
Calotte of black felt with brown mink trim around front and sides. Quilted crown. Black grosgrain inner hatband; unlined. Retailer's label on inside hatband: "The Fair / Fort Worth" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114945/
Gloves
Glove of pale blue-gray cotton with green undertone. Hands have seams on outside; running stitch of same color; wrists widen and dip in V shape on thumb side; pinkie finger side of wrist features a large scalloped edge. Label sewn in right glove: "Gloves / Designed by / Lilly Dache", with "7" in a circle indicating size. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc38130/
Hat
Hat of purple felt. The low, circular crown is mostly flattened, with a slightly undulating surface. Around the crown is a wide band of turquoise crushed silk jersey held in place by crossing bands of fuchsia pink and dark blue purple yarn. The wide, flat oval brim is set just slightly off-center to the crown, giving a wider brim in front than back. The hat is unlined, with an inner hatband of purple blue grosgrain ribbon around the inside base of the crown. Designer's label sewn to inner hatband: "Henry's / Originals / Dallas". This hat was designed to be worn with a suit designed by Adrian. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39127/
Hat
Hat of black felt with two bands of wide, wine red colored velvet ribbon off left and right sides meeting at center and extending off back of crown. Black coque feather trim at back. Retailer's label: "Northridge / Inc. / 1 W. 57th St. / New York" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114884/
Hat
Hat of natural-colored straw. The domed crown is of patterned woven straw, forming a lace effect. Around the base of the crown is a wide band of light brown grosgrain ribbon, with a bow and trailing ends. The wide brim, of matching straw, curves upwards. The hat is unlined, with an inner hatband of light brown grosgrain ribbon around inside lower edge of the crown. There are no labels or tags in the hat. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39172/
Calotte Hat
Calotte style hat of black velvet and felt. Rim of velvet bows surrounding pointed cap supported by scalloped brim. Elastic band for securing hat to wearer's head. Designer's label: "Madame Suzy / 5, Rue de la Paix / Paris" Label below designer's label: "Made in France" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114855/
Hat
Hat of blue felt with upturned brim covered in white straw. Large domed crown covered in blue net. Unlined. Retailer's label on inside hatband: "Made to Order Hat / Bergdorf / Goodman / Fifth Ave. at 58th St." digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114905/
Hat
Picture style hat of loose weave natural colored straw. Crown and brim trimmed with brown bugle beads and jewels. Yellow chenille band forming triangles at sides for securing hat to wearer's head. Unlined with yellow grosgrain headband. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114921/
Suit
Two-piece suit of beige worsted wool gabardine of tropical weight. The jacket is medium-length and semi-fitted, with a roll collar having wide pointed revers. It has tuck-over wide padded shoulders and long, narrow sleeves. There are slight vertical gathers at waistline, starting at sides and running around back. The center front opening has three large plated metal buttons shaped as trumpet flowers. The jacket is lined in peach crepe. The matching skirt is mid-length, with a narrow waistband that laps over and secures with two hook-and-eye closures. Skirt has four inverted pleats beginning 41.5 cm below waistband and extending down 30 cm. to bottom of skirt, two at front, two at back. Side zipper closure, top of which is where waistband secures. Skirt is unlined, and has no labels. There are three labels in the coat: Designer's label at inside left: "Forstmann / 100% Virgin Wool / © F.W. Co." Retailer's label at inside back collar: "Sanger's / Dallas" Coat and Suit Industry National Recovery Board label inside right side at seam "135776". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30048/
Beach Clogs
Pair of wooden, raffia, and leather beach clogs. The slip-on shoes are designed with wooden platform soles with rounded toes, and a wide woven raffia strap across vamp which is dyed in stripes, red, off-white, black, orange, white, brown, and green. The raffia strap is attached at either side by narrow band of leather nailed into sides of sole. The 3" high heel is of a modified Louis style, and is painted with flower-heads in blues and reds, with similar floral forms on the sides of the platform near the toes. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114732/
Beret
Hat of black knit. In the style of a beret, the hat is of black knitted yarn. The crown is circular, somewhat domed when worn. No brim. The whole is covered in long, curving, pointed black sequins. Hat is unlined. Label sewn inside crown: "Hand Made / In Italy". Hat has been photographed with padding to provide shape. When not worn or padded, hat flattens. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39055/
Boater
Boater-style hat of off-white straw. The whole hat is of straw woven into shell-shaped segments, connected to form the body of the hat. The cylindrical crown has a flat top, and is encircled at the base by a black velvet ribbon. At either side of the crown are large black velvet bows. The flat, oval brim follows the outline of the crown, and is partly overlaid by a fine black mesh veil with long, trailing ends that are long enough to tie under the wearer's chin. The underside of the brim is edged in black velvet, and there is a black velvet strap which extends down from either side to help secure hat to wearer's head. The hat is lined with a fine white mesh, and has an inner hatband of black grosgrain ribbon at inside base of crown. Labels sewn into inner hatband: "Marché Hats / Paris New York"; Also sewn into inner hatband is second label, "Consumers' Protection Label / 784619". Hand-written on velvet chinstrap: "59389" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39076/
Calotte Hat
Calotte hat of brown felt with rounded crown and a 1" turned up brim. Feathers of medium brown and gold are attached under brim at center front and lay over brim at right and left sides capped with squares of same brown felt. Inside crown stamped: "Carol / Body Made in Italy" Label sewn to inside crown: "Replica de Parisienne" Label sewn to inside grosgrain hatband: "Adjustable / Head Size" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39211/
Calotte Hat
Calotte style hat of gold lamé fabric. Hat could also be called a modified turban. Upturned brim with large, circular, red rhinestone surrounded by white rhinestones as trim. Same trim of large, circular, red rhinestone surrounded by white rhinestones on right side of hat. Lined in black fabric with black grosgrain headband. Retailer's label on inside headband: "Titche Goettinger Co. / Dallas" Designer's label on inside headband: "Sally Victor / 18 East 53rd St." digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114971/
Calotte Hat
Calotte style hat of light purple felt in teardrop shape. Decorated in bunches of purple and magenta felt grapes with leaves of green felt. Rose colored tie bow at back. Hat covered in purple net with chenille balls. Black grosgrain headband. Manufacture's label on inside headband: "Northridge Inc. / 1 W. 57th St. / New York" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114994/
Calotte Hat
Oval, calotte style hat of faded rose tucked satin with fabric flowers and petals in matching color. Flower at front of hat trimmed with small satin bow at center. Retailer's label on inside back headband: "Bonnette / Highland Park Village" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114993/
Cartwheel Hat
Black cartwheel hat. The low, domed crown and wide circular brim are made of black woven horsehair and stiff veiling, with wire to stiffen the edges. The brim is overlaid with a wider second brim of net and wire. Brim is "off-center", wider at front of hat than back. Around base of crown is a band of black cording, tied into a bow at back and with trailing ends. The inside base of the crown is lined with black grosgrain ribbon. One pin with black head is with hat to secure it. Label sewn into inner band: "Sally Victor / 18 East 53rd St." A second label with handwritten number "1655" is sewn in near designer's label. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30042/
Cloche Hat
Cloche style hat in taupe felt. Slightly flared brim. Trimmed at front with red feather bird. Green and black coque feathers drape from front over back of hat. Beige colored veil on front. Elastic band for securing hat to wearer's head. Designer's label on inside hatband: "Milgrim" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114995/
Cloche Hat
Cloche style hat of black felt. Upturned brim of black Persian lamb wool higher in front and tapering to back. Elastic band for securing hat to wearer's head. Label on inside headband: "Blanche Richmond / Salon des Chapeaux / 711 Church St. / Evanston" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114996/
Coat
Coat of black wool and chinchilla fur. The full-length black wool coat is tailored to fit at waist and flares out at skirt. Long sleeves, and center front opening with 8 circular buttons covered with same black cloth, and 3 hook-and-loops spaced along the opening. The coat has a Peter Pan collar of brown and taupe striped fur identified as chinchilla. From the hips down to the hem is trimmed with matching fur, arranged so the stripes run horizontally around the skirt of the coat. The coat is fully lined in black cloth. Single retailer's label at inside back of collar: "Neiman-Marcus / Dallas". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc30101/
Halo Hat
Pamela or halo style hat of natural colored straw cloth. Crown ringed with brown silk organza roses. Edge of brim covered with natural colored grosgrain. One hatpin with black, teardrop shaped head. Elastic band for securing hat to wearer's head. Unlined. Retailer's label on inside hatband: "Henrys / Dallas" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc114900/
Hat
Hat of black felt. The low, domed crown of black felt is ornamented with a double-spray of black feathers at front. The brim, also of black felt, is turned up at front and turned down at back. The underside of the brim, which shows at front, is lined in black lace embellished with tiny black sequins and beads (jet?). The hat is unlined, with an inner hatband of black grosgrain ribbon. Attached to inner hatband is a small black plastic comb to secure hat to wearer's head. Maker's label sewn to inner hatband: "Grace Nugent / Los Angeles, Calif." Supplier's logo mark of Merrimac De Luxe Fur Felt stamped to inside of crown. digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39152/
Hat
Hat of black felt. Styled as a tricorne, the crown is of black felt, flattened at top. The wide brim is set off-center to the crown, with more of the brim at sides and front than back. The brim is curled up and in at sides and back, forming a triangular shape, with point at the front. The hat is unlined, with an inner hatband of black grosgrain ribbon along inside bottom edge of crown. Attached to the inner hatband is an elastic cord to secure hat to wearer's head. Maker's label sewn to inner hatband: "Jacqueline / Dallas". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39081/
Hat
Hat of navy blue gabardine. Based on a modified top-hat design, the cylindrical soft crown is slightly "crushed". The brim, of the same material, turns up in front and down in back. At back of brim/crown is a navy blue faille bow with trailing ribbons. The crown is lined in white satin, and there is a black grosgrain ribbon inner hatband. Attached inside crown at back is label: "Margie Webb designs / California Accessories". digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39242/
Hat
Hat of olive green/gray felt. The low, domed crown is of a drab olive green/gray felt, divided into four quadrants. Around the base of the crown is a band of similarly colored grosgrain ribbon, with bow at right side. The brim is of the same felt, and slopes downwards at front, and turns upwards at back. The hat is unlined, with an inner hatband of black grosgrain ribbon at inside base of crown. Attached to the inner band is an elasticized cord to help secure hat to wearer's head. Stamped in gold on inner hatband: "Made in France especially for / Best & Co" digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39044/
Hat
Hat of black velvet. The flat crown is surmounted by an arrangement of artificial lily-of-the-valley, with green cloth leaves and cloth and wire flowers/stems. From the back of the hat descends a black velvet snood to catch up the wearer's hair. Designer's label sewn into back of snood: "Yvonne Boutin / 510 Madison Ave, N.Y." digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc39230/